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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 22, 1914)
6 TTTE SUNDAY OREGOTfTATf. POTfTLAND. XOVE3IBER 22, 1914. VELVET IS FAVORITE OF DEBUTANTE FOR MATINEE WEAR AND PROMENADE Severely Plain Tailored Suits of Stroller or English Type of Dark Green Gabardine With Coachman's Coat 'Adorn Smarter Young Women During Morning Honrs. P. T , W (wV- vvT' '! M ' a ; ,j JA-A - A U I I 'A j j " m -A:A'A;5 iYfvA'. II -( U ; 'S :-sJ?f i f ! VRLVET, once the traditional right of the dowager. Is now claimed by the debutante, and this year velvet Is the fabric of fabrics Tor formal afternoon wear. The debutante's vel vet tailleur for retaurant lunching, for the matinee and for promenading on the avenue has special lines of youthfulness and charm. This attrac tive little velvet suit of tete de negre velvet shows the long-tailed coat, col lared with skunk and a skirt cut with decided fullness around the feet, though it Is short enough to show a fetching walking boot with buttoned top of fawn cloth. Smart young women are dressing for the morning hours in severely plain tailored suits of the stroller or English type. This model is of dark green-gabardine with the new coachman's coat and a short skirt, buttoned from waist to hem, cut extremely short. Beneath It shows buttoned walking boots of tan calf with spats made to order to match the gabardine suit. Mannish gloves, the extremely simple, severe hat and a starched linen collar carry out the trig, tailored idea of the cos tume. At the afternoon dancing sessions In SOCIETY AND SHOPS CATER THIS WINTER TO FASHIONABLE BELLES Girlish Dash and Charm Central Idea of All Suit Designs Jewelry, Except Ring or Two and Necklace of Pearls, May Not Be Worn Simple Lines Required. NEW YORK, Nov. 21 (Special.) December in New Tork Is conse crated to service for the debu tante. All the Important debuts occur In this month and fashionable hostesses defer more important entertainments to "give the debutantes a right good time." And a right good time verily they have, for dinner-dances, matinee theater ' parties, luncheons and other festivities crowd the happy weeks and the little debutante is kept in a con stant whirl of ecstatic excitement. Very often by Christmas she is so physical ly and mentally exhausted that she has to be taken to Pinehurst or to Ber muda to rest up and be put in fresh tfim for the remainder of the Winter. After Christmas she Is supposed to be well launched and takes her place In society ae an established belle. Very often her engagement la announced at the end of her first brilliant season and another Winter sees her In the ranks of the young married women. The debutante's wardrobe for this first flutter in society is a very im portant matter to herself and to her mother, the latter realizing how great ly correct yet striking costumes will help In the coming campaign. The debutante, having been kept for years Jn simple schoolgirl raiment Is usually fairly Intoxicated with the delight of r the smart restaurants, the well-dressed young women wear frocks of dark color and conventional tailored style rather than the fluffy frocks that are considered correct for at home or even ing wear. This model for a debutante is of fine French serge and black satin. The accordion pleated skirt, over a pet ticoat of satin, buttons part way down with blue and gold outtons, and the draped bodice has a smart waistcoat with twin points at the front. But toned dancing boots and a tailored tur ban accompany the frock. Half a dozen dancing frocks will be none too many to start the Winter with, if the debutante belongs to a fashionable set. This piquant frock is one of several dainty evening frocks lust completed for a debutante of De cember. Coral and bronze velvet forms skirt and draped bodice, the bodice having an under-bodice of white tulle. The full tunio of white tulle Is set on under a gorgeous girdle made of pearl beads with tassels of bronze crystal and pale coral beads. Gold satin slippers and stockings of natural silk complete a. pretty dancing cos tume. Blender, girlish figured women can wear extreme blouses that would be possessing dozens and dozens of beau tiful, grown-up frocks, hats and wraps to say nothing of negligees and strong hand over her is necessary to keep her clothes aspirations within the bounds of suitability and conventional correctness. Youthful Effects Aimed At. Fashionable debutantes are permitted no Jewels, except a ring or two, and perhaps a dainty brooch. They may wear a string of pearls but elaborate diamond collars. corBage pins, tiaras and dangling ear-rings are for mar ried women, or for unmarried girls who have left first youth behind and are in their third or fourth season. This is quite as it should be for youth is a charm which no amount of superb dressing or bejewelling can Improve; and youth is the thing which the de butante's mamma and her modiste seek to emphasize In all her new belongings. Her afternoon tailleur may be of vel vet which now Is worn by all ages of women but its cut and its style will be very different from the cut and the style of an older woman's tailleur. The debutante can wear very dashing things, and dash combined with sim plicity of line Is c the result aimed at. For a debutante of December has just been completed a fur-trimmed velvet suit for Winter afternoon wear. The skirt, set smoothly over the hips in a t - - v ' - trying; on older women, and the debu tante needs plenty of blouses, for . she Is harder on her clothes than her less exuberant mamma. Here is a blouse of bright orange pussy willow silk, softened by a veiling of black butter fly marquisette. The collar of tucked orange satin crosses and is snap-buttoned in Iplace, the jet buttons making an effective trimming. Sheer collar and cuffs are of white mousseline. deep yoke, has a ripple lower part which flares to four-yard width at the edge where a band of skunk adds rich ness to the dark erreen of the velvet. This skirt is very short as are all the debutante s Winter costumes this sea son and below It will be evident smart little boots of patent leather with buttoned gaiter tops of fawn-colored cloth. With these stockings of natural silk will be the correct thing. The coat of. this pretty suit has a low-set oelt of the velvet and below the belt. at the back, a square coat tall bordered with skunk, falls to the knees. At the front, the coat buttons high to the throat where there is a close collarette of skunk and skunk bands edge the long coat sleeves. The coat buttons are covered with the velvet and though they are flanked by hand-worked but tonholes snap-fasteners beneath hold the the fronts together as is usual this season. With this charming green velvet promenade and matinee cos tume, the debutante will wear a large green velvet sailor hat. trimmed with a band of the skunk. Suits Have Girlish Dauab and Charm. Another tailored suit for the same debutante Is In the new stroller style, which is rather mannish In suggestion and well suited, in its saucy dash, to youthful wearers. This suit Is of I green gabardine green, you see, is Ojt the helghth of the fashion and the coat is a redingote affair, called the "coachman's coat" because of its severe lines, deep collar and huge buttons. Its lower edge falls over a simply cut but slightly rippled skirt, which reveals walking boots of dull calf with but toned tops of gray cloth. . ' With her stroller suit the debutante wears a fur toque with a smart gilt spangled cockade, or a rather severe turban perched at one side of her head. Hat crowns are small now and to ac commodate them the hair is wound closely against the head so that the ef. feet is very small and dainty, especially when a flaring collar stands out below the chin and at the back. Youth can wear outrageous collar effects which would be trying to older women. Dancing Frocka a Moat Important Item. At least six dancing frocks for the evening, and almost as many more for the afternoon will be required to see the fashionable debutante through her first season. These frocks, which will be protected out of doors under a smart, fur-trimmed coat of broadcloth or zlbeline or a handsome fur coat of Hudson seal or caracul, are this Winter of silken fabrics combined with chiffon, butterfly marquisette and velvet. Satin Is the prerogative of youth now. as well as velvet, and the debutante may also wear faille if she chooses. A lovely dinner-dance frock of corn - colored faille classique has Just been sent home for a December debutante. Its tunic is of corn-colored chiffon bordered with Jet another prerogative of youth these days and a bodice made of Jet strings Is laid over a bodice of the pale yellow chiffon. Another pretty dinner-dance frock is of flowered daphne silk pale pink poinsettias on a pale turquoise with a bodice of white lace and a broad sash of pale blue satin. Simpler frocks for morning wear are In the trotter style and are of French serge, braid bound at the edges with sleeves and skirt of black satin, and of mohair and worsted mixture with sleeves, girdle and waistcoat of Scotch plaid taffeta. Half a dozen blouses of pussywillow shirting and some sepa rate skirts in the new ripple lines pro vide for early morning hours at home. Though she may not wear many jew els the debutante's furs may represent thousands of dollars. Besides her ermine-trimmed evening wrap, she must have an afternoon carriage or limou sine wrap of fur or of velvet, fur trimmed; and an automobile coat with fur collar and perhaps fur lining also. Street furs will include a dark set of skunk or pointed fox, and lighter set of fitch and chinchilla squirrel. Blouse of Last Season Can Give Service Again. Easy Ways Are Told for Home Dnunaker to Remodel WaUst so It Will Be Fashionable Again. IF YOU havo on hand a last season's ' blouse that is only out of styt. not really worn, it may be made to do duty this year by a little refurbishing. If It Is a chiffon blouse and the sleeves are short, use the chiffon of front and back sections to lengthen the sleeves, at taching the extra length Just above the elbow, and havethe seams hemstitched. Then cover the body of the blouse with a sleevelasg jumper of pussy willow silk, which may be cut In two sections and snap-fastened at one shoulder under one of the coquettish shoulder roses now so fashionable. If you make a new lining for your chiffon blouse, an entirely new color combination may be worked out. and of course the taf feta Jumper will harmonize with the coloring and not only with the shade of the chiffon. For Instance, If your blue chiffon blouse was worn last year over a white silk lining, drop it this year over green and match the blended colorings in a rich shade of peacock pussy willow silk. If your last season blouse Is of white lace and net, dip it Into water in which a teaspoonful of powdered ochre has been dissolved. This will give the ma terial a creamy tan tone, more fash ionable just now than clear white. Drop the creamy white lace blouse over a lining of flesh pink daphne silk and wear it with the new tailored suit of brown broadcloth or corduroy. Be sure to buy also a pair of the natural silk stockings which are in the creamy tan shade that is smart with brown cos tumes, with all costumes In fact, for these stockings are the fad. If the last year's blouse was of pussy willow silk or of crepe de chine, match it if you can, and if not, match its shade in some other silk. Pussy willow is used with a crepe de chine or with crinkled crepe. Faille classique, a new ribbed silk, may be used In combina tion with any of the other three. Cut out the old sleeves and set in new ones of the contrasting silk. Make, also, a wide girdle and, below It, pointed basque fronts of the new silk. The last year's waist probably has a aurpllced. crossed front that opens in a deep V, whether or not there is a flare collar at the back. Rip off the collar and edge neck and fronts with a straight, folded over band," exactly as you'd finish the neck and fronts of a kimono. This fin ish is used on some of the smartest blouses and Is easy for the home dress maker to make. A snap fastener at the Bare Nectc Shows la T. bustline should hold the fronts trimly, and another snap fastener will hold the lapped girdle. ' '1 -v f ,.-C ; ''It FRUIT LAXATIVE FOR MAMMA, DAD, BABY, "CALIFORNIA SYRUP OF FIGS" Better Than Calomel, Oil xr Salts for Liver, Bowels and Stomach. Mother, daddy and the children can always keep feeling fine by taking this delicious fruit laxative as occa sion demands. Nothing else cleanses the stomach, liver and bowels so thor oughly without griping. You take a little at night and in the morning all the foul, constipated waste, , sour bile and fermenting food, delayed in the bowels, gently moves out of the system. When you awaken all headache, indigestion, sourness, r.. WOMEN WHO FIGURE IN EVENTS OF NOTE POSE FOR PRESS CAMERA MEN New Queen of Roumania May Have Happiness Marred by War Pa jama Girl Becomes Bride of Banker's Son. - Mrs. Charles S. Whitman Is First Lady of New York State. t sv THE happiness of the new queen of Koumanla may be, and probably has been marred by the Euro pean war even before she is crowned. Roumania has been facing the peril dally ofbelng drawn Into the war. The new queen is said to be the most beau tiful woman of the royalty in Europe. Before her marriage in 1893 to Fer dinand, Crown Prince of Roumania, she was Princess Marie Alexandra Vic toria, daughter of --the Duke of Edin burgh, son of the late Queen Victoria of Great Britain. She was 18 years old at the time of her wedding and la now the mother of five children, two sons and three daughters. Only re cently the aged King Charles died and his son, Ferdinand, succeeded him. Much pressure is being brought to bear on the new king to send 400.000 troops to help decide the campaign in Qalicia and Poland. On October 24, at St. Martin's Pauline Chase, the "Pink Pajama Girt" who had been reported engaged no less than ulna tlm. (n am monv fHff...nt sons. Including Vincent Astor and Graham White, chief af the British Aviation Corps, became Mrs. Aleo V. Drummond. A photograph was taken as she and Mr. Drummond were leaving the church after the ceremony. The groom is prominent In the British Yeo manry and Is the son of George Drum mond, head of Druramond's Bank of London. A few hours after the cere mony,' Mr. Drummond started for France with the West Kent Yeomanry. The bride Is a daughter of Dr. and Mrs. E. B. Bliss, of Washington,. D. C, and her maiden name was Pauline Bliss. Mrs. Charles S. Whitman sat In a box at the Metropolitan Opera House watching Pavlowa dance while the re- Impression of Frock Depends Much on Neckwear. ' Well-Arransred Colffnre Helps Drtai to Pass Without Criticism, Even If It Is Last VY ear's. THE woman,, who lunches at the restaurants a great deal is fas tidiously particular about hsr headgear and her neckwear, for if these two items of her costume are im peccable her frock will pass without criticism, even If It is a last-season affair. By the same token, the woman who attends the matinee Is exquisitely careful to havo her coiffure -well ar ranged and her collar the latest thing. The collar and cuff set illustrated is the last word in "little fixings," and. though these sets are. quite expensive for the trifles they are. In the shops, almost any girl should be able to con trive a set for herself at modest cost. A doubled band of white net forms the tall collar and the straight band of the cuff. The ends of the doubled band ar turned in to make a neat finish, and two snap fasteners will hold the collar together under the lap. The cuff is fashioned in the same manner. Box-plaited net frills edge both collar and cuff, and the seam by which the frill Is attached to the net foul taste, bad breath, fever and diz ziness is gone; your stomach Is sweet, liver and bowels clean, and you feel grand." "California Syrup of Figs" Is a fam ily laative. Everyone from grandpa to baby can safely take it and no one is ever disappointed in its pleasant action. Millions of mothers know that it is the ideal laxative to give cross, sick, feverish children. But get the genuine. Ask your druggist for a 60 cent bottle of "California Syrup of Figs," which has directions for babies, children of all ages and for grown-ups on each bottle. Refuse with contempt the cheaper Fig Syrups and counter felts. See that it bears the name "California Fig Syrup Company.": Adv. 3 I w-.v1 - 'III - - All r " - it's 57 - . - v , ? r y v - - - - ; ports from the election in New York state were coming In.' She was not anxious about the result, for before the performance had begun it was reason ably sure that her husband had been elected Governor of New York and the question in doUbt was only one of plurality. The coming social arbiter of Albany was Olive Hitchcock. Everyone In New York is speculating on Mr. Whitman's chance to be made Republican candidate for the Presi dency in 1916 and that might make Mrs. Whitman as "first lady" at Washing ton. Among the prominent figures at the loading of the ship of Christmas cheer for the war zone, was Mrs. F. II. Law ton, wife of Major Lawton. of the Quartermaster's Department Of the strip Is hidden under the narrow band of velvet ribbon. A second band at the opposite edge balances the trim ming. The collar, as shown with this blouse of brown pussy willow taffeta. Is worn around the throat, though the bare neck ehows in the V of the open blouse. Smart also is the brown velvet I CAME from Russia Gor don brought me here before the war broke out and now I m an American a popular one at that. I am Russian Fitch. My fur is soft as V Scart of N atanl RoMUa Fitch. LT-S0 Mali . SM.00 In cheaper quality akin. Scarts 9.00 Mod . tW-0 Gordon & Ferguson, frlahexs of GOUT) OU TURX. Fun. CVr- T5 at LAW 0- Forty ITeavr O X- JttAJjJjt v Army, who had charge of the task. There was a corps of volunteer women working under Major Lawton, but Mrs. Lawton was really in charge of them, and her advice was helpful In assort ing the cargo. There were also 75 soldiers and 60 sailors who helped to load the ship. Mrs. Paul D. Cravath, the wife of the well-known New York lawyer. Is a leading member of the Long Island set and a constant attendant at the hunt and race meets there. She Is the owner of many fine horses which she exhibits at the fashionable horse hows. She was Agnes Huntington before her marriage. ' sailor, trimmed with civet fur and birds' heads an odd but decidedly smart combination. Gossip and Fear of It. Exchange. Gossip is bad. but fear of it keeps some men on the straight and narrow. if silk and wonderfully good looking And now it is made up into Muffs and Scarfs by the Gordon fur-people who know how to add the last touch of style to a fur. I am guaranteed to be what they say I am, like all Gordon Furs under the GORDON Pure Fur Law Look for the man down town who sells Gordon Furs he is a mighty good man to know. For he sells quality merchandise.
