Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 8, 1914)
8 THE SUNT) AT OREGONTAN, - PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 8, 1914. FANCY STRIPED COTTONLFROCKS ARE DAINTY AND. STYLISH IN EFFECT Creation of Black and White Printed Marquisette, With Sleeves of White Batiste Tied in Smartly at Wrist, and Black Bow From Collar. Gives Debutante Dashing Costume. - . ' - - T I ;;-Ht" fill l ' ? i, I i i 1 : w vj" " -X,v i I I'll vl - h I ! - -W- J f ' -lr1 fail ' - I J J ,wa- r V, , r f--'t , , - ,,-- , 4 - . HCT r cJ 3 V: -.a zM-J : -r,vvy 7 A flwr ! I ' V; - ra- V-S-J ufacturera have taken It up It is no longer so expensive as It was last Spring-, when the countries were using a. little of It for waistcoats and trim ming's. Cberoit Slakes Frock. The first entire frock of filete was made by Cheruit, who is always on the lookout for something; new in the fab ric line' to lend Individuality to her graceful costumes. Another cotton woven frock of high distinction was turned out by the Wiener Werkstatte, an organization of artist dressmakers in Vienna. This frock is of printed black and while cotton and was one of the first long-waisted basque models with sleeves of contrasting material, in this instance 'of sheer white batiste, tie In at the wrist with black velvet, a most charming harmony. these sleeves, with the basque frock of black and'whte cotton fabric Brack and white promises to be tre mendously popular by Spring, and women will be delighted, it is whis pered, with the new black and white cotton fabrics in every weight and weave that are being planned for next Summer's selling. Of course, they will -not be visible before January, but their promise is assured. Two Cotton Frocks Dcrlked. A debutante of this Autumn has two delightful little frocks of cotton ,and light .weight silk. A dancing frock in the quaint 1830 style that is so rarely becoming to pretty girlhood is of sheer, pale pink cotton batiste over pink pussy willow silk. There are no less than 15 tiny ruffles of the pink batiste on the skirt and each little ruffle is piped with black velveteen. Imagine the work of attaching narrow velveteen pipings to 15 narrow ruffles of sheer material! The bodice is ex tremely ""babyish, with a rounded out neck, within which is a tucker of white net, drawn .up on a black velvet rib bon. The sash is of pink pussy willow silk and a big rose of black velveteen is caught against the waistline. The second costume is a bit more ambitious. The skirt is of ecru lace in three flounces over a petticoat ot golden brown velveteen. Over the bodice of ecru lace is a crossed sash of the velveteen, which ends in a flat bow at the hip, and there is a saucy little coat of corduroy, still cotton, you perceive, a shade darker than the golden brown velveteen sash and petti coat. Fiuir Willow Silk la Lining. This coat is trimmed with a kolinsky collar and kolinsky ball buttons and Is lined with ivory-tinted pussy willow silk, the only discordant note in the all-cotton costume, if anything so lovely as pussy willow could possibly be called, discordant. The coat crosses in surplice fashion and a single snap fastener holds it toward the left of the front. With this creamy, ecru and golden brown costume will be worn bronze slippers and the new natural silk stockings which fashion approves. These cream-toned stockings are being worn with patent leather buttoned boots and slippers, as well as with bronze footwear, but they are specially pleasing with brown-toned costumes. Silk Still Fashionable. Women who have taken up cotton at the instigation of those who wish to help promote the sale of this commod ity in America do not Intend to go so far as to adopt cotton-backed satins or cotton-woven ribbons. The fash ionable silks, like pussy willow, noc turne and goldenrod satin, daphne silk, Lbutterfly voile, crepe de chne, mesca line and the line, will ry no means oe abandoned, and for linings of fur wraps and other wraps only silken stuff Is admissable. ' When cotton material is used it will be frankly cotton, and no masquerade of cotton in the guise of Bilk or wool. The filete frock Is fetching indeed. So is a tallleur of corduroy or a dance frock of cotton neC but who could im agine wearing a wedding gown of cot ton-backed satin? ' WAR BRINGS INTO PROMINENCE ATTRACTIVE WOMEN FROM EUROPE One-Piece Frocks Favorites for Morning; Wear. Old-8tyIe Costume. 'With Laborious Adjustment, Yield to Practical Model ot Serge, Cheviot and Mo hair. , o AN armful of fancy striped and checked cotton dress goods takes on added interest when presented for inspection by two unquestionably pretty maids, themselves attired in cot ton frocks both dainty and stylish. Un der the direction of Mrs. Josephine Dan iels a large collection of cotton dress fabrics of Southern manufacture were shown at the recent National Cotton Drese Exposition, held in Washington. Tiny brown and green leaves, with a dash here and there of Autumn crimson, are scattered over the surface of this white cotton house frock, part of a trousseau for November. The skirt Is coquettishly draped up to show a pleated petticoat of ecru batiste and stockings of natural colored silk to match the color scheme of the costume. The sash is of brown ribbon. Designed after an imported frock. brought over early In the season, this afternoon costume for a debutante Is extremely dashing. It Is built Of blacK and white printed cotton marquisette, the sleeves being of finest white cot ton batiste. The collar is also of dou bled batiste and from this depends a bow of black ribbon weighted with black and white beads. The manner of tying in the sleeves at the wrist Is a smart detail. NE-PIECE frocks, so easy to slip on and off, are the favorites for morning wear and many of these prac tical models of serge, cheviot, mohair and mohair and worsted mixture, are shown in the ready-to-wear depart ments for runabout morning wear un der the smart topcoats, pocketed and belted in semi-boyish style. The ideal one-piece frock fastens with a minimum amount of trouble, usually a snap fastener at the belt line and another at the neck opening suffice, the lap of the surplice bodice holding the lines of the frock trimly in place. The old style costume with a multitude of hooks and eyes which demand laborious adjustment has gone out of favor and the easy-to-get-into frock 'la hailed Joyfully by womankind. For the prospective mother, who must pass much of the Winter indoors, there are fascinating negligees of the matinee order, combining a graceful skirt of accordion pleated silk or chif fon with a loose little coat of em broidered albatross or of lace over chif fon. ' Such a model, with skirt of ac cordion pleated daphne silk flounced with lace has & mantle of shadow lace draped up here and there with tiny roses. To match the fetching costume there is a lace cap also trimmed with the little roses. ' One of the aew fur fabrics which has specially taken the fancy of woman kind is Jungle cloth, a really marvelous imitation of Bengal tiger skin, so soft and furry in texture that at a little dis tance it would be hard to affirm that the handsomely marked fabric is not really an' animal pelt. These barbaric Jungle cloths are being made into auto mobile coats for Winter wear. They are a bit too pronounced In color and pattern for the promenade. The new Spanish Louis neel is mucn more comfortable lor walking ana standing about than the regulation French Louis which is placed far un der the foot and has little breadth on which to balance the weight ot the figure. Buttoned boots with gaiter tops of light-toned fabric, slim toes of patent leather and the curved Spanish Louis heel are being selected for afternoon dancing wear and general wear with formal and dressy costumes. Mile. Gahrielle Dorziat Makes Hit in "The Hawk" With Taversham Woman Physician Goes to Aid Injured and Distressed in Conflict Zone Newport Society Woman Tigures in Divorce Court Legal World Calls. M-vM w . ' w: I V JV"' ;. u i : -J Mr'- i is 1 - skA j n -s l4 li l VI r 'V I J"' V -11 J . ' v -w i i . If I I i - is II' :- COTTON GAINS FAVOR AS MATERIAL FOR FROCKS FOR FALL AND WINTER Filette Is New Fabric, Indorsed Recently by Paris and Seen First at Race Meets at Auteuil and Longchamps Sheer Cotton Batiste Used Oyer Pink Pussy Willow Silk Gives Charming Effect. THOUGH the downfall of empires may -e threatening in Europe, this Is truly the era of King Cot ton In America. His scepter is ruling the fashion situation Just now, and even the first ladies of the land have taken to wearing cotton frocks. In Washington, where, through a sugges tion on the part of Miss Genevieve Clark, daughter of the Speaker of the House of Representatives, the famous buy cotton goods" idea was started, a JMational impetus has been given to the sale of cotton fabrics by a special fash ion show at which It was demonstrated Iiow charming and practical a material ottoa gtuff can be not only for mid summer, but for midwinter, Spring and Autumn. This interesting exhibit was held -at one of the large hotels In Washington and attracted not only the business contingent, but also the social factions. Many society leaders i from New Tork, Philadelphia and Washington attended and everywhere were exclamations of pleasure over the display of smartly made costumes, all of cotton-woven stuff. Miss Clark wore a most charm ing frock of cotton. Another fetching cotton toilette was worn by Mrs. Dan iels, wife of the Secretary of the Navy, and other authoritative cotton crea tions were exploited by Washington's prominent society women. In a few weeks every, woman will be wanting a frock of the new filete, the new cotton weave indorsed last Spring by Paris and seen first at the race meets at Auteuil and Longchamps. Fl lete Is a silky-surfaced cotton material with cords or heavy threads that give a variety of striped effects. When the cords are close together on a closely woven ground, filete Is heavy enough for Winter wear even out-of-doors. By weaving the cords In a sheer ground, filete becomes a diaphanous stuff, suit able for the most sultry weather. At first i'llete was used for waist coats and for facings and revere on smart tallleurs; then its possibilities became apparent as a costume material. It comes In white and in, charming color effects, and since American man FATHER AND SON MEET Lad to See Parent Long Kstranged From Mother When Two Wed. PHILADELPHIA, Nov. 2. Eight-year-old Franklin Archibald Grler. 6246 Chestnut street, Is happy because his father Is coming home. When the boy was but a year old his parents sep arated and until recently he hadnever met his father. William F. Grler and Mrs. Elsie D, Grler, parents of the boy, will be re married after a separation of seven veara. Thev legally were separated Oc tober 28, 112, after living apart five Tears. - The ceremony will be performed by the Rev. W. K. Galloway, pastor of the Woodland United Presbyterian Church, at the home of the bride. Miss Mabel B. Underwood, whose father is a cousin of President Wilson, will be bridesmaid. Mrs. Grler said tier son has been kept In ignorance of his fathers identity until recently.- There was an affecting reunion when the two met. The couple will tour New England by automobile after the wedding and will live at 240 West Tabor road, Olney, upon their re turn. . . ; . GaJb'r :-jpoj NEW YORK. Nov.' 7. (Special. America is being flooded wltfc foreign actors and actresses who have sought refuge here from the dull ness of cities In the war zone. Mile. Gabrielle Dorziat is not one of these war refugees. She came here this sea son under an arrangement with Will lam Faversham. made'befjre the war was thought about, to take the princi pal woman's part in the French play called in the American version "The Hawk." New York audiences have found her beautiful, of fine poise and great emotional power, and a very wel. come addition to the list of leading women on the American stage. The success of "The Hawk," which seems assured, will be credited in equal parts to the quality ot the play, the intelli gent acting of Mr. Faversham in a very Interesting part, and the clever ness of Mile. Dorziat. Five American surgeons sailed for the war zone on the Rocbambeau, of the French line, recently. They are traveling on a fund supplied by the Duchess de Talleyrand, formerly Anna Gould, and they go to hep victims of the war in France. They are Dr. Bar ton McC. Cookingham. of Red Hook, N.I Y.; Dr. Mary M. Crawford, of Brooklyn: Dr. Thomas Nisbet, of the French Hos pital, New York City; Dr. M. J. Shea han, of Derby. Conn., and Dr. Albert G. Cooke, of Brooklyn. They were select ed for the service of Dr. G. G. Ram- tmud, head of the Pasteur Institute,' ot New York, who is in the middle ot this group. Mrs. Patrick Campbell, who in pri vate life is now Mrs. George Corfiwal-lis-West. has come to America with the new Shaw play, "Pygmalion," and has made a success in New York, where Bhe is appearing at the Park Theater. "Pygmalion" is the play which Shaw produced in Berlin before it was seen in London. Shaw claimed that Berlin appreciated his work more than London. He certainly cannot complain of lack of interest in Amer ica. The theme of the play is the con version of a cockney flower girl Into a lady, that is, into a woman with the deportment and speech of a lady, by a professor of phonetics. His first ex periment with her is in bringing her to an afternoon tea at his mothers. where she says outrageous things in the articulate speech of a person of culture Instead of the slurring .drawl of the flower girl, and It is In this scene that Mrs. Campbell thrilled her Eng lish audiences by the use of the word bloody" which has aroused so much controversy. The play. Is full of the usual Shawlan whimsicalities and Mrs. Campbell, though a little mature look lng for the part Of Eliza, scores an ar tlBtlc triumph. " Annette Abbott Adams is Assistant United States Attorney at San Fran cisco. She is the first woman in the United States to occupy that position. She assumed her office this month. Representative Baker, of California, who wss Instrumental In having her appointed, thinks that woman suffrage has been recognized by the Federal Government. Andrew McKlnney, a New York banker, prominent in Newport and New York society, has been sued by his wife for divorce. Mrs. McKlnney was Ida B. Riley. Their friends were surJ prised at the bringing of the suit, as they had been conspecuous figures in the Newport colony much of the. Sum mer. Hazel Coombs was one of the im portant witnesses in the Carman mur der case. She was admitted to the doc. tor's office on the night of the shoot ing and she says Mrs. Bailey came in to the waiting-room. She also de scribed a strange man in the waiting room one who had not been identi fied, but on whom the defense tried to put the responsibility for the killing of Mrs. Bailey. set a woman should pay heed to this warning. The corset shops naturally will seek to get rid of large-waisted models on hand as speedily as possible and alluring advertisements offering the best makes at bargain prices should be taken with a grain of salt. Before spending a goodly sum on a new cor set make sure it is a new model, with the little inserted gussets which pro duce the new slimmer waisteil figure. NURSES IN THE WAR. What the Women Are Doing. Military Effects Supplant Debutante Slouch. "Natural Figure" la o More and Coraetmakera Decree Slender Waistlines and Higher Buata. THE clinging vine type of woman which we have all become accus tomed to during the past twelvemonth, is disappearing in favor of a more vig orous type. The new military costumes with trim and jaunty lines call for something less relaxed in figure lines than the debutante slouch, say the corset makers. The so-called "natural figure" was desirable only when draped in classical effects, and some figures this past Summer have been a little too natural to be entirely in ac cordance with good taste. New corsets for Fall are a tiny bit higher busted, not more than an inch or so, and the dainty brassiere Is still necessary to preserve a trim effect for the frock-foundation. There is a de cided effort being made both by the corsetiere and the couturlere, to pro duce a. more slender waistline. This effect is not achieved by curving the corset in at the back or front for the line, especially at the back, must be straight and flat to give a youthful silhouette. But at the sides, above the waistline, the figure Is permitted to curve out a bit and this of course makes It possible to reduce the waist line just that much. The waistline must make some pre tense toward slenderness and'trimness If a bulky effect is to be avoided in a gathered tunio or skirt. Widened skirts inevitably will mean smaller waistlines and in selecting her new Autumn cor- RUIT LAXATIVE IF CONSTIPATED, . TAKE "CALIFORNIA SYRUP OF FIGS" Best Liver and Bowel Regulator for Mamma,' Daddy and ' Children. If you're headachy, constipated, bil ious or stomach is disordered and you want to enjoy the nicest liver and bowel cleansing you ever experienced take a tablespoonful of "California Syrup of Figs" . tonight and In the morning allx the copstipatton poison, bile and clogged-up waste will gently move out of the system without grip ing and, you will feel splendid. Every member of the family should use this fruit laxative as occasion de mands. It is just as effective for grandpa as it is for baby. It simply cannot Injure. Even cross, sick, fe verish children just love its pleasant taste, and mothers can rest easy after giving it, because it never fails to ef feet a good "Inside cleansing." For thirty years "California Syrup of Figs" has been recommended by physicians as the ideal stomach, liver and bowel cleanser. Millions of fami lies who are well Informed use noth lng else, but recently there has come a flood of spurious fig syrups, so we warn the public to ask plainly at drug stores for a 50-cent bottle of "Cali fornia Syrup of Figs" and see that it is prepared by "California Fig Syrup Company." We make no cheaper size. Hand back any "counterfeit" with con tempt. Adv, The women of the Warring Nations are nursing, cheering and comforting the wounded or dying. The women of Europe not only wrap bandages and scrape lint, but they tend the farms. dig coal, carry burdens and do the work of the men now under arms. Every male fighter,, however brawny and heroic was born of woman. The high courage and hardihood that are a nation's strength are inherited from the mother. Young mothers who preserve the charms of face and figure in spite of an Increasing family and the care of growing children are always to be en vied. Dr. Pierce's Favorite Prescrip tion gives the strength and health upon which happy motherhood depends. It practically does away with the pains of maternity. It enables the mother to nourish the infant life depending on her and enjoy the hourly happiness of watching the development of a perfect ly healthy child. Thousands of women who are now blessed with robust health cannot un derstand why thousands of other wo men continue to worry and suffer from ailments peculiar to women when they can obtain for a trifling sum Dr. Pierce's Favorite Prescription, which will surely and quickly banish all pain, distress and misery and restore the womanly functions to perfect health. IMPORTANT SPECIAL OFFER TO READERS OF THIS PAPER Any person desiring a copy of the People's Common Sense Medical Ad viser before the edition Is exhausted should send this notice, together with 20 cents In stamps, to Dr. Pierce, In valids' Hotel, Buffalo. N. Y., and a copy will be sent by return mail, all charges prepaid. Adv. LOVE, HAiR ANA MARRIAGE From the beginning of romantic his tory down to the present day, every story of love has spoken of the maid en's hair as one of her chief charms. Fair locks amply pay for the care and time used in keeping them beautiful and care Is all that is necessary for developing and retaining hair beauty. In washing the hair It is not advisable to use a makeshift but always use a preparation made tor shampooing only. You can enjoy the best that is known for about three cents a shampoo by getting a package of canthrox from your druggist; dissolve a teaspoonful In a cup of hot water and your shampoo Is ready. After Its use the hair dries rapidly with uniform color. Dandruff, excess oil and dirt are dissolved and entirely disappear. Your hair will be so fluffy that It will look much heavier than It is. Its lustre and softness will also delight you, while the stimulated scalp gains the health which insur hair growth. Adv, .
