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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 25, 1914)
8 - TUT? SUNDAY OREGOXTAX. POTlTT.AyP. OCTOBER 25. 1914. -rflX- .-'' -V '" &" -t " ' 'SL ; t-A' 1 1 "p 1 I J , I " ii 3 Metallic effects, so fashionable , - "''.HV- ! e . One of the fasWonatte gokf dresses. TheWer- A ' 1 X i M ' " I I for evening Bowns, are beautifully I M - t I Jrast and bodice tup are of filmy lace: the wide oirtfle iL ' . f , 4 ' ' '1 ' " 1 cofntaneil to tMt evening vpm ol 1 . ; the flaring tunic are of shining cold tissue. ! f '1 . V - ' . " , " T J C'oth of silver, coyered with Waclc . W I ; 0 Fnm. j. m. Gijjin, c t ' ' I f t - ' ' 1 and sBver beaded net Tunic ruf- v - i 1 : w Pbo jori Fd V $ . , ? , ' , -' - I v tie and bertha of silver lace. A ' I ( r A detail of fashionable Winter Bf J f - 4 V V " " -t B' ' I f t --- "l 31 A HE : 4. i k . . ,4 U . f - - . : fi IF' a v - J , SK - s ; J g nary wear. They do not entirely en- tMM--.- - - "- -Jtfj $ y ?, ': -T:"-: v"''-- :. vv: 1 H circle the neck, only covering: the sloes L A I f & ' t " ( y - w "afi and back. The ribbon, generally of lLy-wZ fl 1.' i 'tf' II velvet or satin, and wide, covers the Ct'Y I 1 i, & J i " H I" " 'II neck the rest of the way, tying- In a mfrJt-'ifjta HI " ' " w J I bow in front. A little rose is tucked yTtUy H ' ' ' " 1 f v J 1 ln he tulle or silken folds at one side, w ifYZm J i f s 4 ' i - " s f The long pocketbook of leather Is C'&Vy B l '"tAii y '4 , " Vs-. -v '3 used more than the handbag In the B f '" ' ' V V , , f - I morning:, but for afternoon those of EJ??Kff3' B Jis8,!ii 4 ' j - I ! velvet or moire swing over the arm. ifJljZ-S- V1-- 1 V . " f.Tr , " Those of black faille with colored bro- JStyyTW - " 5' cades covering the lower part are dec- 'ieSfiWKStf I " " x 1 orative but must be chosen with care, "frjffijlt. I , , . " a j as they lo not harmonize with all cos- vfuS-' ' "1 " " " tumes. Wonderful opera bat? a are made irS. JfS $ T .v?i ot faille, gold lace and galoon. They AslSOfcv wi " IT " v:"," swing from the arm by a loirg silken VSJa - X- 1 f ' ? I strap, and are themselves long and ' - 1 v ' " " " " 1 narrow. On the lower end Is a little 4tw S -J " j Laced Boot and Sailor Hat SIlHjr l.n . , 4 1 Season's Smartest Modes. If ' h j&-A - ' il T H S5S--iS' I effect is very trig and smart. Other II IkI V I JR. j f. i,,.,.,,.., . - r . n1 - I laced boot models have the vamp, heel II 11 IIV 3 RTffl 1 11 JwifTITri ' " ' I ATERIALS are such an Important detail of fashionable Winter clothes that style lines, for once, tiem rather secondary to them. The glint of metals, the shimmer of brocades, the rich coloring and varied piles of the new velvets, the sparkle of the spangled nets, the stripes and plaids that come on chiffons, silks and velvets, give a special richness to this year's styles. Even though many of the dress models are rather simple in line, the richness and novelty of the material give them a much more elab orate and elegant look than, they would otherwise have. The gold evening dresses are a de cided novelty. They are made from old sold satins that match up to the gold semi-transparent tissues posed over them and are adorned with gold laces and nets. Sometimes silver is Intro duced into the lace pattern in a re peating motif. Gold tassels hang from iooped-up tunics and gold Knotted cora Is seen in girdles. Gold lace is used on velvet and satin dresses even in the afternoon gowns of the more elaborate sort. It Is used to make flat yokes and sleeve ruffles. In separate waists the whole underbody is made of gold lace. lightly veiled with a sort of glorified Jumper of chiiion. Satin brocades 01 ten nave goia iig- Mres in them that stana out in a ae lightfully embossed fashion from the smooth sheen of the satin. Other bro cades have the gold thread Interwoven with the silken threads and glint in a mysterious fashion as the light catches them. Velvet Is brocaded in stripes and plaids on chiffons. This is very ef fective and new in the deep rich olive, .blue and purple tones and in the gol den and corn yellows. Panne velvet is the most fashionable of the plain vel vet; next comes chiffon, while the usual velvet pile Is worn in the more tailored types of model. Panne is used to line the satin and the fur wraps. It is often figured and In multi-colored design. Besides being warm, it makes a decorative addition to the garment. Broadcloth leads as a smooth tailored suit fabric for suits and dresses. There are some new woolens- on the camels lialr weave, but these are seen only as yet on a few imported gowns. There are some delightful fur com binations, as white caracul and mon key, caracul and kolinsky and beaver and blue fox. Caracul is dyed In col ors less than formerly, yet one sees it occasionally in an odd piece. The flaring skirt has been accepted: Jt is now worn by many women in Xew .York. At first it was taken up very gingerly; women hated to spoil their slender lines. The transparent net tunic seems to be the favorite with its rows f velvet ribbon weighting it, and there Is a very odd ballet skirt look to it when the drop skirt remains tight. The basque, though popular, does not seem to be high style, though there are some very popular adaptations of it where very little of the basque remains. But tons are omitted, also the sleeves, re- solving It into a sort of loose over- Jumper. The flaring tunic has now be come almost a skirt, yet one notices the drop skirt shows even if for only an Inch below. Newer yet is the outer skirt that has a curved edge that dips In front and in back and is curved liigh enough on the sides to show the Ankles. In some models there is no drop skirt: in others a drop skirt of silk lace or chiffon veils the ankles. Sometimes there are two or three of these curving edged overtunics that make the skirt look like a full-blown One of the new (taring redingote separate coats. This model, of fawn colored broadcioth. has the shoulder cape, a deep velvet collar, the Pierrot buttons and faced velvet cuffs; sash of coat material mS EkMo Coprricfet. 191. kx Rtatnxn . . Pwi.Mll, rMW I . . 1.1. New Yor HmM Cmu T White caracul is a most picturesque fur for an- effective afternoon or evening wrap, im moaei is aoornea.wiin montcey iur. Prau'B. Altuaa It Cm, rhoto Juei k'eler. flower. They are generally about four or five yards around the hem and gather into a deep hip yoke. The corsage is so varied that it is difficult to say which lines are the most successful. The most conservative waist for evening dresses is the wide girdle which covers all the corsage and shapes to the figure down to and sometimes below the waist line. Such corsages are sleeveless and have some sort of lace or net shoulder bretelles that appar ently hold on this wide girdle.- Over some of the filmy dresses with ruffled skirts there Is slipped a satin or velvet sleeveless and buttonless overblouee, which is sometimes laced up at about waist depth at the sides. Both long and short coats are fash ionable ,on suits. One may see In the best houses in New York City the two styles shown side by side, and the most becoming one chosen by fashionable women without any reference being made as to preference . in regard to style. The long coat models as gener ally ordered have fur borders. In some of the new short coats the coat is fitted Just below the bust; added to this is a frankly ruffled peplum which does not reach the hips. It is not as bizarre as it sounds and on a. slender figure has a lot 01 style. Care in Matching Boots and Hose Sign of Good Taste. Xiretlea of Drew AIho Shown In lveepinsr Collars Fresh and Having? Gloves In Proper Shades. D O NOT forget when you have or- shoes to match your Btocklngs exactly to them. "They won't show," you may argue when you are in a hurry. But, unfortunately, in these days when one must ascend subway 'stairs, omnibus tops or the high step of an automo bile, they do. Even though the' on looker catches but a hasty glimpse, it is much better that the stocking and boot top match. It shows you are well groomed and have good taste. In neckwear it has become a question of eternal vigilance. The pretty new collars, both high and low models, are perishable, and it means that they must be replaced every time they are worn. Many of these new lawn and chiffon models are laid in pleats or box pleats; those pleated are in tiny eighth-of-an-inch pleats, those box pleated are in one-inch widths. The pleats are stitched across a little more than half way down. This lets the edges rippled yet holds the part that forms the standing collar In place. Lambskin gloves, unless of the finest kid.- do not look well with evening costumes: thev often soon what wouio. be a correct ensemble. The fineness of kid is really necessary, and often a tint that is just off the white is needed to harmonize with the costume. Most good shops have the gloves in this off-tone white; if not, they can tell you where they can be procured. Fine suede gloves, called "gante de Sale," are al ways worn with evening dress by those who know the little niceties or the. en semble. A lambskin blove can be worn with the afternoon velvet dress or suits, because the heaviness of the kid gloves goes well with the heavy fabric Now that feathers have come in again it is a, pity not to make use of them for the elaborate afternoon and evening hats. For the last few years the dress hat has looked too tailor made, and now that the costume has become more frilly because of its spreading skirts and glinting materials the decorative quality of ostrich plumes in millinery is really a necessity. The new tulle and velvet neck ruches Light Tops With Patent leather Ef. fects Give Aew Footwear Xilxarre Appearance. WO of the smartest costume acces sories to date are the laced boot and the flat sailor hat. When these dresses that are so short that almost the whole of the boot shows it repre sents the extreme of the present fashions. The new laced boot has a light top. In one model the toes and the heel only were of the patent leather; the rest was a light fawn, excepting a slender band of the patent leather each side of the lacings, which were also black. An other laced boot that Is extreme is the one that laces down the inside of the foot. This seems very bizarre, but the effect is very trig and smart. Other laced boot models have the vamp, heel and a curved piece above the heel of patent leather, with the buckskin or cloth tops. Gaiters are worn in the morning over low shoes to get this boot effect. The new flat sailor hat has a broad brim that tilts upo on one side. The crown does not seem two inches high. An encircling band with a wide flat bow is about all the trimming this hat shows. The First Christian Church. (Wide World.) Among the sacred cities of the East, fl SK1H OF BEUTT IS JOT FORETEK Dr. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM CR MAGICAL BEAUTIF1ER 2-5 RemoTesT.ii. iHm- - S SJV pies. Freckles, I and 6kio Diseases, and every blemish on beauty, and de fies detection. It has stood, the test of 66 years, and is so harmless we taste it to be sure it is properly made. Ac cept no counterfeit ot similar name. Ir. sU A.. Sayre said to lady of the hauttoa a patient): "As you ladies will use them, I re commend '(toaraus's Cream' as the least harmful of all the skin preparations." At drussisLS and Xepartment Stores. Ftrl t Hapklu & Son, Props 37 Gnat Jtou SUITS. Side view o fawn colored coat showing velvet collar and the sash. Phoco Copxrirht. 1914. by ftentllncer - RlHunvt Copjrrlcbt, 1014. brr loik Herald Compear Antloch holds a high place, for it was here that the first Christian church was founded; it was, moreover, the center from which St. Paul conducted his mis sionary campaigns to convert the Gen tiles. In those days Antloch was a prosperous and thriving city, boasting of a population of half a million souls. while splendid Roman palaces and vil las dotted the banks of the River Or ontes. which flows through the town. Today It is a sleepy, old-world place- occupying scarcely one-tenth of Its ancient area, and certainly possessing none of its former glory. Nevertheless, it is in many ways a delightfully quaint and picturesque Eastern city, with nar row, tortuous streets, every other housa In which appears to possess an archi tectural style of its own. One can well spend three or four days wandering about this interesting old town, visiting its primitive market place and Inspect ing its ruins, walls, gates and ancient monasteries. Face Paint Tahooed; Remove Skin Instead "A few years ago only one class of women painted their faces," says Dolly Madison in Chicago News. "It was a sign of social ostracism and was tabooed in refined circles. The custom has become so universal we must admit it is to be deplored and to be shelved as soon as possible. How foolish to seek artificial "beauty" of this sort, obnoxious from artistic and moral standpoints, when it is so easy to obtain a truly natural complexion by the use of ordinary mercollzed wax, which may be had at any drug store la original one-ounce package. This mer collzed - wax is so effective, harmless and inexpensive, no one need think of using anything else for the purpose. Applied like cold cream at night, and washed off In the morning, it at once begins to show its remarkable re juvenating effects. It gently absorbs the lifeless surface skin in tiny parti cles gradually showing the fresher, livelier, beautiful underskin. Natural ly it takes with It all surface defects, like freckles, pimples, moth patches and liver spots. Adv. Oily skin and shiny nose How to correct them That bug-bear of so man women an oily skin and shiny nose has various con tributory causes. Whatever the cause in your case, proper external treatment will relieve your skin of this embarrassing condition. Be grin this treatment tonight With warm water work up a heavy lather of Woodbury Facial Soap in your hands. Apply it to your face and rub into the Pres thoroughly always using an upward and outward motion. Rinse with warm water, then with cold the colder the better. If poss ible, rub your face for a few minutes with a piece of ice. Thit treatment with Woodbury's will make your skin fresher and clearer the first time you use it. Make it a nightly habit and before long you will see a decided improvement a promise of that lovelier complexion which the steady use of Woodbury's always brings. Woodbury's Facial Soap costs 25c a cake. No one hesitates at the price after thtir first emit. Do thim today Nowl Ttar tut the illuitration tf the tale beltna and put it in your purse at reminder tt fit Wttdburj'u 1 Ttar tut the tale nova. Take it tt your druggist tr toilet ttun ter today. "Begin tonight tt get the benefits tf this facial stap. tor sale by dealers everywhere. lVoodburys racial oo Tfcs Andrew Jergens Company Spring Gror Avemm Cincinnati, O. ."?-'1U ti l fa