THE. SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 11, 1914. FAILLE WEAVES ARE AGAIN IN HIGH FAVOR; AMERICAN CREATION IS CHIC Touch of Velvet Adds Style Character to Silken Afternoon Frock Mexican Colorings Make Newly Created Restaurant Froci Stunning. i HP ""lyL r. '-tTH . s' ' W .:?- jgrtfei- - , . i II II : my : o KrX i N -. V .- J- ... ' - X 'y1 ft I - ' s " v f f! 'y4rM 1 4 M r - I", -' - I -I I - , - M I V " 4s" ' - I V' ""i; V, V.a;J ; ?44r fy FAILLE weaves are again high, in favor and. a new American laille called faille classique compares favorably with the French weaves, im possible to obtain now, One afternoon frock of tete de negre faille classique Is simple in line, but excoedincly smart with Its ripple errect in tunic and sasn. The skirt is short enough to show a pretty buttoned boot and the sailor hat is of tete de negre velvet. A touch of velvet gives great stylo character to the silken afternoon frock, as evidenced in a charming restaurant dancing costume of white puesy wil low taffeta and apple green panne velvet. On the white taffeta basque bodice and green velvet bolero are white buttons, but the bodice closes invisibly with snap fasteners. But toned dancing boots accompany the frock. There is a stunning restaurant frock in the warm, vivid yet soft Mexican colorings and made of pussy willow taffeta with Mexican designs or Mexixe silk, as it is called and of plain colored tango crepe in a wonder ful Indian red tone. The sleeveless coat and pleated tunic are of the red tango crepe. Skirt and sleeves are of tan colored pussy willow, and the ap plied motifs of Mexixe silk are in shades of adobe, brown, Indian red, Montezuma green and blue, with fine black lines. TAHITI'S PREPARATION FOR WAR PICTURESQUE Little Army Hastily Formed and Gunboat With Single Cannon Steams Out and Captures Large German Trading Vessel Long Wait for News. BT MAT KELLY. THE telegraphic dispatch from Bor deaux which recently announced the shelling of Tahiti by the Ger man cruisers Scharnhorst and Gneiss enau was a great shock to all . who have ever visited that most beautiful spot, the "Tearl of the Pacific," as it is called by one writer, and certainly th lovelist of the many lovely islands In the tropics. No doubt those who have been close ly following: the movements of troops and ships in Europe during the war will be interested in readins how far In the South Seas the tidal wave of hos tilities reached and also something of the manifestations of war as witnessed by Portland citizens just returned from Polynesia. Mr. and Mrs. E. T. Allen, of Kock fpur, their two small daughters and myself spent the Summer in Tahiti, which is one of the Society Islands and a French dependency, so there we had an opportunity to witness the patriot ism of its people, even though living at that remote distance from the actual seat of war. for the island is about 17 decrees south of the equator and 150 degrees west longitude. Xe Several Day Late. Tahiti has no wireles station nor ca- Francisco just once a munth. so it was several days after war had actually been declared that the news happened to be brought In by an island steamer, which had intercepted a wireless from ; Honolulu, and even then the reports i were vague and no one hardly knew j whether to beJleve them or not. However, volunteers immediately of I fered their services and daily drills were besrun at Papeete, a city of more I than S000 inhabitants and the capital of Tahiti, as well as its principal seaport. Natives were not included in this mob ilization and as the white population Is very small, it was rather pitiful to watch the daily maneuvers of only TO i soldiers and their proud march through the streets, and depressing to realize that these unskillled men and a small gunboat were the sole defense of the island. The men from the Zelee were well uniformed, of course, but the others wore a hit-and-miss collection thjft our grandmothers would have heartily welcomed for their rag carpets: how ever, there was plenty of individuality ; and a Jauntiness and dash which helped them pick up their feet along the hot, dusty streets, and the three-decker helmets, which were necessary to pro tect them from the blazing sun, also added to their stature, fortunately, for most of them were mere boys and short boys at that. But the spirit of ancient Gaul was there, and though working all day at their different occupations, these soldiers got up at 4 o'clock In the morning to drill when it was cool (cool here having the relative meaning of less steaming hot than the middle of the day) and as they passed on their tramp, keeping step to the "Marseil laise" or other French war songs they were singing, we Americans echoed their "Vive la France!" Two German men-of-war had been reported at Samoa, and the only con solation for the Tahittans and their Summer visitors from the United States was the comparative insignif icance of Papeete and the hope that she had nothing that the powerful Ger man vessels could possibly want, though it was feared they would come In for coal. Tahiti In Sot Fortified. But the courage of the French colony was dauntless, and in war- councils copra quotations were fogotten and commercialism yielded to patriotism. It was decided to dismantle their gun boat, the Zelee, and sink it across the opening in the reef to close the har bor, and bring the guns ashore for coast defense. There are no forts at Tahiti. -with the exception of two or three abandoned ones, which are ex tremely small, perhaps large enough for four or five men, and have been used only in their native fighting back in the hills. But before all the guns had been placed a trading schooner brought in news of a big German phosphate ship over at Makatea, another French pos session, so -the Zelee with only one gun aboard steamed out immediately to capture this prize. The German commander had heard nothing of the war, not even earlier rumored hostilities, and was peacefully smoking a pipe on the deck of his ship, the Walkuere, when he observed the Zelee approaching the Island. Any thing irregular in its progress was at tributed to the stupidity of French tactics in general, and he continued solemnly smoking and walking the bridge while observing the maneuvers of the diminutive French vessel, when man-of-war, was signaling the Gov ernor its faithful patrol while warily avoiding hostile warships, and a dis tant smoke seen from one side of the island, perhaps some native burning eocoanut husks, became on the other side two German cruisers steaming rap- iojt towards Papeete, so that the much- vaunted "extra" of civilization was not needed to influence our apprehensions and tingle our nerves. When the commandant of the Zelee. with numerous other officials, came Into the French hotel for dinner and their conversation waxed sharp and nasal to the accompaniment of loud ex pletives, copious glasses of wine, the fingering of horisontal mustaehios. shrugging of shoulders and lighting of innumerable cigarettes, we learned after awhile that' no hostilities or of fensive military operations were being planned, but merely the proper amount of garlic in the salad being discussed, or the superior flavor given the cham pagne by its rocking on the long jour ney from France. . yhen the regularEngllsh mall steam er failed to come on her schedule two weeks later, everyone knew then that there really was a war. and. added to our apprehensions was the acutely gr sonal one of our not getting away from the Island at all. And thus, with several other Americans who were anx ious to get home, we waited more than a week, weary, tedious waiting, and watching the horizon line. All the harbor lights were put out, the lighthouse was dark, the soldiers kept up their drill in their improvised uniforms, the supply of flour dally diminished, and we realized ourselves to be actually in the clutches of the terrible god Mars. Our watching was finally rewarded the morning of August 29. when the Maital. a small vessel of about 3300 tons, glided into the harbor with the long delayed news of the actuality of the European war, and provided accom modations for 24 passengers, among whom were the German Consul and his family, and a prominent French doctor of Papeete going to Paris to join the reserves. Maital is the native word for "good," and the ship lived up to her name by bringing her pas sengers safely into the Golden Gate 16 days later. VANITY PROVISION IS ESSENTIAL IN HANDBAG Shirred Pockets With Mirrors and Powder Flasks and Boxes More Im portant to Milady Than Change Purse and Place for Currency. Answers to Correspondents suddenly two shots were sent across his bows. Still smoking, he phleg matically cursed the awkwardness of the despised French, their lrrespon sible, ineffectual target practice, won dered between puffs of his good meer- chaum what the rattle-brained French captain thought he was doing with that small boat, when two officers left it, climbed aboard the Walkuere, and with a revolver at this head demanded the German's surrender and the rais ing of the FrencH flag. Priir Taken to Papeete. The captain then realized that a least these French soldiers were not so pur poseless and devoted to frog easting as he had supposed, and after much un availing gesture and remonstrance the big German prize was convoyed by the small gunboat back to Papeete, where it adorned the harbor and delighted the eyes of the Tahitians. When the captain of the Walkuere learned that the Zelee had only one small gun and could not possibly steam more than seven knots to his 14 knots and hour , he exploded with a loud crash. The plcturesqueness of this exploit was further enhanced as succeeding days went by without receiving any further news of any kind. Then doubts began to arise as to whether their real ly was any war after all, and guesses were rife as to what would happen if the French had thus forcibly captured a foreign vessel in times of peace. Without morning papers, telegraphic dispatches or any communication what ever with the outside world, every body's Imagination had to do treble duty, and nobly they responded to the call for conjecture. Warship Are Expected. The sighing, of the pojm branches in the night breeze was no longer an ac companiment to lovers' vows, but meant that the Montcalm, a French Late Boot 'Is Adaptable to Dancing or Walking. Little More Protection From Winter. Chilled Pavements la Afforded Than Regulation Ballroom Slipper. THE dansants in the restaurants will be as popular as ever this Winter and very fetchingnew buttoned boots are ready for dancing wear with smart new tailored frocks of the sort the well-dressed woman affects in the afternoon. One pretty dancing boot has the curved, though not perilously tall heel. r ....... . .......... mm f I ; . I , x I r " ?' I - ' I : ;y - if pancifnl Boots for Afternoon Dane-? which is comfortable for walking and ideal for dancing, and a light weight welted sole admirably flexible on the foot, but affording a little more pro tection from Winter-chilled pavements than the regulation turned sole of dan cing slippers. BY LILIAN TINGLE. PORTLAND, Or., Sept. . Will you kindly tell me of a way td render out beef suet so that It will kep soft afterward without using- cottonseed olU olive oil or lard, because the taste of these Is objec tionable. Thanking- yon for att early an swer through The Sunday Oregonian. MRS. S. O. M. I AM sorry that the "early answer has been impossible, absence and illness having caused an undue ac cumulation of work and letters for me. You might try the following, being careful not to let the fat get over heated during the last part of the cooking, as both digestibility and fla vor would then De impaired. What some butchers call "cod fat" gives a softer "rendered" fat than plain suet. A mixture of suet and ordinary beef drippings is good, or suet and chicken fat, if available. Clarified Fat Wash the fat and cut it in very small pieces, being very careful to remove outside skin or any morsel of meat that might cling to the fat and give it a "strong" flavor. For S pounds fat add 1 quart water and a pinch of soda (not more than one-sixteenth of a teaspoonful) and boll 1 hour. Then add 1 cup sweet fresh milk, and cook slowly on the back of the stove until the bits of fat have shrivelled brown and feathery. Then strain through a cloth. Some makers stir in a small quantity of oiled but ter after the fat is cool, and before it "sets." This improves the flavor and makes a better fat for shortening pur poses, but of course, Increases the cost. Others use a little bacon fat and a few chopped vegetables to make savory" fat tor frying, "savory fat ' is, of course, unsuitable for shortening. A few slices of raw potato, put into the .fat in the last stage of clarifying. are also said to Improve the flavor. For mincemeat and steamed puddings. both sweet and savory, for Winter use, the plain suet without other fat or the addition of milk is best. This gives a fine hard cake, which may be wrapped in parafine paper, and will .keep fresh for a long time. Instead of "chopping," the necessary amount of suet is simply "scraped" oft the cake, which not only saves time. but prevents the finding of too large lumps of suet La the nnal mixture and does away with both "taint" and "strings two bugbears of suet cook era This "hard cake" clarified suet is, of course, unsuited for" ordinary shortening or frying, the "mixed fat," as described above, being better for both purposes, though it will not keep quite so long. The amount of milk may be slightly increased. The brown bits of fat may be used for a "scrap cake. Oregon City, Or.. Oct, 4. Will you kindly print in The Sunday Oregonlan a recipe for ufaking piccalilli that is boiled and sealed in jars similar to canned fruit? X made plccalilfi by your recipe printed In the pa per a couple of years, but have lost the recipe. 1 mean green tmato plcalllll. Thanking you for a prompt reply. MRS. J. H. a. Portland. Or., Oct. S. I mm sorry that the inquiry tor the recipe X desire was not made definite enough so that It was possible for you to give recipe. But I thought per haps there was only one recipe for the un cooked piccalilli. So if you will kindly print recipe for uncooked American piccalilli will be very grateful to you. Thanking you in advance. MHfa. K l. Following are a few "chopped pickle' reciDes all classed as "piccalilli." "In dia relish" and "piccalilli" are both rather vague overlapping terms, and capable of many variations. I hope, however, you will find something like what you had in mind In this collection. Piccalilli 1 H bushel green tomatoes. peek green peppers, peck onions. 2 meaium-sizea caDDages, lft cups salt. 3 pounds brown sugar, 1 pound white mustard seed, 6 ounces stick cinnamon, 3 ounces cloves, 2 ounces alspice. vin egar to cover. Wash the tomatoes and peppers, peel the onions, quarter the cabbage and chop each vegetable sep arately. Sprinkle in layers with the salt, cover and let stand overnight. Drain and add the sugar and mustard seed. Place in a preserving kettle, add vinegar to cover and the spices tied in a bag. ' Simmer six hours. Remove the spice bag, and seal the mixture In glass Jars. Piccalilli 2 3. dozen small cucumbers, 1 small head of cabbage, 2 quarts small string beans, 3 bunches of celery, 3 red peppers, 3 green peppers. 2 heads of cauliflower, Vi teaspoon ground mace, teaspoon ground alspice, V tea spoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon black pepper, 2 ounces mustard seed. 1 ZPjz22 'All COMPLETER THAN ETBK IS HEW VAMTV BAG. AHAXDBAG without vanity be longings is pathetically like "Hamlet" with Hamlet left out. Change purse and pocket for bills are not nearly as important in the eyes of the woman shopping for a new hand bag as cunning shirred pockets con taining mirrors Sasks and. powder boxes. The artful manufacturer knows this full well and Into some of the least expensive handbags are put dain ty linings dainty in color, at least with various vanity belongings in shirred pockets. Some of the hand somer bags, equipped with silver gilt vanity trinkets and lined with silk run up Into many dollars. One may pay J35 as easily as 32.98 for a new hand bag, provided one has the $35. A modern bag is of fine pin seal In a dark brown color to match the fash ionable brown dress materials. The lining is of apricot yellow moire silk and the bag contains a good-sized mir ror, powder puff, box, flask for liquid face powder and flask for liquid rouge. A coin purse is securely anchored to the lining of the handbag by a cord. clove garlic, vinegar to cover. Chop all the vegetables rather fine, after clean ing: cover with salted water and let stand 2 4 hours. Train and press dry in a colander. Pack into jars, heat the vinegar with the spices. Pour hot over the vegetables and eeal at once. Piccalilli 3 One-half peck green to matoes sliced, 2 quarts fine chopped cabbage. green peppers chopped. 1 quart small white opions, sliced, 1 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons English mustard, 1 tablespoon celery seed, vinegar to cover. Sprinkle one cup salt over the vegetables, let stand overnight, drain, place in a kettle, cover with vinegar, add all the other Ingredients except the mustard. Cook one-half hour, then add the mustard, mixed with a little cold vinegar. Cook three minutes, then seal in small jars. India relish Chop, not too fine, four quarts green tomatoes, one quart small onions, one head cauliflower, one quart cucumbers, six green peppers, one head celery and a small head of cabbage. Cover with a brine made by adding one-half cup salt to one gallon water. T ft atnn nvnr niht Drain well and steam a few minutes until tender. Mlxv meanwhile one and one-half cups sugar and one cup flour with two tablespoon fuls dry mustard, one tablespoon tur meric (or If liked hot, one teaspoon turmeric and two teaspoons curry pow der), mix to a paste with water, dilute with two quarts boiling vinegar and cook until resembling boiled custard. Add steamed vegetables, put into hot Jars and seal at once. Indian relish No. 2 Take equal parts green peppers, green tomatoes and cu cumbers (without seeds), all chopped to the size of peas. To each gallon of the mixture add one oup salt, mix thor oughly and hang in a bag to drain over night. For each gallon allow two quarts vinegar, one ounce cloves, one ounce mace; boil these together 20 min utes. Remove the spice and add one tablespoon white pepper, two table spoons ground mustard, one teaspoon ground ginger, one cup sugar, with cayenne to taste. Scald the chopped and drained pickles in this and can while hot- If preferred pepper corns, mustard seed and whole ginger may be used instead of the ground spices. In this case boil them with the cloves and mace In small dabs, leaving one in each pickle jar. A little celery seed may also be used, If liked, either loose through the pickles or in the bags. piles to previous questions, but I have been obliged to keep many correspond ents waiting lately. I hope to "catch up" soon; so send me your unanswered questions. Some letters may have been delayed or gone astray in following me about the country last Summer. Oregon City. Or. will you please give me a recipe for canning mushrooms, and also for mash room catsup T We have so many now it teems a waste to let them spoil when we are so fond of them. Thanking you. L M. One mushroom catsup recipe ap peared last week. Here is a some what different type. I will give di rections for canning as soon as pos sible. In the meantime, string and dry the "flaps" (using only the fresh pink ones.) The "button" mushrooms are the best size for canning. You can pickle the buttons very easily by cleaning and dropping, as gathered into a jar of cold slightly salted vine gar. They shrink a good deal, so that the jar may be refilled daily. Mushroom Catsup Pick over, wash and drain one peck mushrooms. Cook with 1 cup water until soft- Rub through a sieve. To the pulp add 2 cups vinegar, two tablespoons salt, one-half teaspoon (or less) cayenne, two tablespoons mustard, one table spoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon mace, one-half teaspoon cloves. Cook one hour, then bottle and seal. I must ask other correspondents to wait a little longer for their replies. "West port. Wash.. Sept. ii. Will you kindly give me a recipe for India relish, also for pumpernlckle bread? Have tried the bread eeveral times, but as soon as it Is put in oven It falls flat. Have -asked for recipes before, but find no replv In Sunday Oregonian. A SUBSCRIBER. I hope that you will find a suitable "India Relish!' recipe above. In regard to "Pumpernickel." my experience Is that it is seldom satisfactorily made at home, best results being obtained with a baker's oven. Here, however, are some "pointers:" 1. German bakers generally use "sour dough" for leaven ing "pumpernickel," instead of ordi nary yeast. 2. Rye meal (made like whole wheat meal) Is necessary in place of rye flour. 3. The bread must be given only about "half proof," not allowed to rise as much as ordinary bread. 4. Many Bakers give the loaves a few minutes In a hot oven to form a slightly thibkened "crust" to keep in the gas bubbles. After a few minutes in the oven the loaves are removed and allowed to "prove" a little longer be fore being baked. I think these hints may solve your difficulty. If not, write again. I am sorry you have not received re- STOMACH RELIEF! NO INDIGESTION. GAUOURNESHAPE'S DIAPEPSIN Time It! In Five Minutes Your Upset Stomach Will Feel Fine. Tou don't want a slow remedy when your stomach is bad or an uncertain one or a harmful one your stomach Is too valuable; you must not injure It with drastic drugs. Pape's Diapepsin is noted for its speed in giving relief; Its barmlessness, its certain unfailing action in regulat ing sick, sour, gassy stomachs. Its mil lions of cures in lndVj-jrsCA dyspepsia. gastritis and other stomach trouble has made it famous the world over. Keep this perfect stomach doctor in your home keep it handy get a large fifty-rcent case from any drug store, and then if anyone should eat some thing which doesn't agree with them; If what they eat lays like lead, fer ments and sours and forms gas; causes headache, dizziness and nausea;- eruc tations of acid and undigested food remember as soon as Pape's Diapepsin comes in contact with the stomach, all such distress vanishes. Its prompt nees, certainty and ease in overcoming the worst stomach disorders is a rev elation to those who try it. Adv. DRUNKS' PICTURES TAKEN Atlantic City to List Its "Jags" in All Saloons. ATLANTIC CITtT Oct. 5. Atlantic City is to have a Jag list. Mayor Wil liam Riddle made the decision sitting as Judge in Police Court and taking account of the number of habitual drunkards before him. According to the Mayor's plan, sec ond offenders will be photographed and copies of the pictures sent to bar tenders. Mayor Riddle proposes to re voke the license of saloonkeepers who sell to men who have been pictured. On an average the balrs on an adult's head number about 140.000. L00IY0UK YERY BEST m&-M (iVtt&M Mi CUTICUEA SOAP FOR Economy FASHION vHeAlth WISE. WO ME, KNOW WHY! rTUE Nemo is a rich giflof style, health and economy to flout nomen, and also a perfect corset for the slender. And Cuticura Ointment, both fra grant, super-creamy emollients, will promote and maintain the natural purity and beauty of the hair and skin, the first requisites of beauty. Samples Free by Mall CuUeurm Seep sad OUiuneni sold throogboot the werM. Liberal asm pie of eacti mailed tree. wltb.lA. see. Address rcutfasuca," Dept. P, Bostoa. SERVICE i-i:!!"'' Io" sarea at - to3o a. . E '11 All Nerrfo Fall models give the correct shape for the new basque styles a wee 'nip" at back and sides; slightly higher back, made full, so that flesh doesn't bulge over the top. KopService Two model for full fig ures, two for sleni medium funfigo$r :nder and rj Self-Reducing Two splendid new models and a dozen old favorites $3-50, $4.00 and $5.00 Lastikops The new "Unelco" Corset, lightest strong corset ever made 53.50. The new No. 504, for slender or medium figures; " of lustrous brocade $5.00. Wearing a Nemo is true economy they long outwear all others. SOLD EVERYWHERE Kerne Hrfhsle-FsiUas IwHtela. Knr Turk SKIN DF BEAUTY IS 0 JOT FURE"cB Dr. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ' ORIENTAL CREAM OR MAGICAL BEAUTIF1ER Removes Tan, Mis pies. Freckles. Moth Patches.Raab and Skin Diseases, and every blemtah on beauty, and de fies detection. It has stood the test of 66 vears. and is so harmless we taste It to be sure it la properly made. Ac cept no counterfeit 0 of similar name. Dr. L. A. Sayre said to lady of the hautton (a patient): "As you ladies will use them. I re commend 6ouraiMl's Crsaai' as the lrast harmful of all the skin preparations." At druggists and Department Stores. FwlT. Hopkins 4 Son, Preps, 37 Great Janes SULTA How to Banish Wrinkles Quickly It the average woman only knew It. It Is not at all difficult to preserve the youthful contour and velvety smooth ness of complexion. Kvery woman hates to see her face wrinkled or baggy, and practically every one has experimented with some sort of patent remedy in the effort either to remove such condition or ward it off. As a matter of fact, the most effective remedy in the world is one that any woman can easily make up herself at home. In a moment's time. Let her take one ounce of pure powdered saxo llte, which she can purchase at any drug store, and dissolve it in a ha.lf pint of witch hazel. Apply this harm less and refreshing solution to the face every day. The results are surprising and instantaneous. Even after the very first application a marked Im provement is apparent. The wrinkles are less in evidence and the face has a. comfortable. Bmuar feeling of firmness that is most delightful. Adv.