THE. SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 11, 1914.
FAILLE WEAVES ARE AGAIN IN HIGH
FAVOR; AMERICAN CREATION IS CHIC
Touch of Velvet Adds Style Character to Silken Afternoon Frock Mexican Colorings Make Newly Created
Restaurant Froci Stunning.
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FAILLE weaves are again high, in
favor and. a new American laille
called faille classique compares
favorably with the French weaves, im
possible to obtain now, One afternoon
frock of tete de negre faille classique
Is simple in line, but excoedincly smart
with Its ripple errect in tunic and sasn.
The skirt is short enough to show a
pretty buttoned boot and the sailor
hat is of tete de negre velvet.
A touch of velvet gives great stylo
character to the silken afternoon frock,
as evidenced in a charming restaurant
dancing costume of white puesy wil
low taffeta and apple green panne
velvet. On the white taffeta basque
bodice and green velvet bolero are
white buttons, but the bodice closes
invisibly with snap fasteners. But
toned dancing boots accompany the
frock.
There is a stunning restaurant frock
in the warm, vivid yet soft Mexican
colorings and made of pussy willow
taffeta with Mexican designs or
Mexixe silk, as it is called and of
plain colored tango crepe in a wonder
ful Indian red tone. The sleeveless
coat and pleated tunic are of the red
tango crepe. Skirt and sleeves are of
tan colored pussy willow, and the ap
plied motifs of Mexixe silk are in
shades of adobe, brown, Indian red,
Montezuma green and blue, with fine
black lines.
TAHITI'S PREPARATION
FOR WAR PICTURESQUE
Little Army Hastily Formed and Gunboat With Single Cannon Steams
Out and Captures Large German Trading Vessel Long Wait for News.
BT MAT KELLY.
THE telegraphic dispatch from Bor
deaux which recently announced
the shelling of Tahiti by the Ger
man cruisers Scharnhorst and Gneiss
enau was a great shock to all . who
have ever visited that most beautiful
spot, the "Tearl of the Pacific," as it
is called by one writer, and certainly
th lovelist of the many lovely islands
In the tropics.
No doubt those who have been close
ly following: the movements of troops
and ships in Europe during the war
will be interested in readins how far
In the South Seas the tidal wave of hos
tilities reached and also something of
the manifestations of war as witnessed
by Portland citizens just returned from
Polynesia.
Mr. and Mrs. E. T. Allen, of Kock
fpur, their two small daughters and
myself spent the Summer in Tahiti,
which is one of the Society Islands and
a French dependency, so there we had
an opportunity to witness the patriot
ism of its people, even though living
at that remote distance from the actual
seat of war. for the island is about 17
decrees south of the equator and 150
degrees west longitude.
Xe Several Day Late.
Tahiti has no wireles station nor ca-
Francisco just once a munth. so it was
several days after war had actually
been declared that the news happened
to be brought In by an island steamer,
which had intercepted a wireless from
; Honolulu, and even then the reports
i were vague and no one hardly knew
j whether to beJleve them or not.
However, volunteers immediately of
I fered their services and daily drills
were besrun at Papeete, a city of more
I than S000 inhabitants and the capital of
Tahiti, as well as its principal seaport.
Natives were not included in this mob
ilization and as the white population
Is very small, it was rather pitiful to
watch the daily maneuvers of only TO
i soldiers and their proud march through
the streets, and depressing to realize
that these unskillled men and a small
gunboat were the sole defense of the
island. The men from the Zelee were
well uniformed, of course, but the others
wore a hit-and-miss collection thjft our
grandmothers would have heartily
welcomed for their rag carpets: how
ever, there was plenty of individuality
; and a Jauntiness and dash which helped
them pick up their feet along the hot,
dusty streets, and the three-decker
helmets, which were necessary to pro
tect them from the blazing sun, also
added to their stature, fortunately, for
most of them were mere boys and short
boys at that. But the spirit of ancient
Gaul was there, and though working
all day at their different occupations,
these soldiers got up at 4 o'clock In
the morning to drill when it was cool
(cool here having the relative meaning
of less steaming hot than the middle
of the day) and as they passed on their
tramp, keeping step to the "Marseil
laise" or other French war songs they
were singing, we Americans echoed
their "Vive la France!"
Two German men-of-war had been
reported at Samoa, and the only con
solation for the Tahittans and their
Summer visitors from the United
States was the comparative insignif
icance of Papeete and the hope that she
had nothing that the powerful Ger
man vessels could possibly want, though
it was feared they would come In for
coal.
Tahiti In Sot Fortified.
But the courage of the French colony
was dauntless, and in war- councils
copra quotations were fogotten and
commercialism yielded to patriotism.
It was decided to dismantle their gun
boat, the Zelee, and sink it across the
opening in the reef to close the har
bor, and bring the guns ashore for
coast defense. There are no forts at
Tahiti. -with the exception of two or
three abandoned ones, which are ex
tremely small, perhaps large enough
for four or five men, and have been
used only in their native fighting back
in the hills.
But before all the guns had been
placed a trading schooner brought in
news of a big German phosphate ship
over at Makatea, another French pos
session, so -the Zelee with only one
gun aboard steamed out immediately
to capture this prize.
The German commander had heard
nothing of the war, not even earlier
rumored hostilities, and was peacefully
smoking a pipe on the deck of his
ship, the Walkuere, when he observed
the Zelee approaching the Island. Any
thing irregular in its progress was at
tributed to the stupidity of French
tactics in general, and he continued
solemnly smoking and walking the
bridge while observing the maneuvers
of the diminutive French vessel, when
man-of-war, was signaling the Gov
ernor its faithful patrol while warily
avoiding hostile warships, and a dis
tant smoke seen from one side of the
island, perhaps some native burning
eocoanut husks, became on the other
side two German cruisers steaming rap-
iojt towards Papeete, so that the much-
vaunted "extra" of civilization was not
needed to influence our apprehensions
and tingle our nerves.
When the commandant of the Zelee.
with numerous other officials, came
Into the French hotel for dinner and
their conversation waxed sharp and
nasal to the accompaniment of loud ex
pletives, copious glasses of wine, the
fingering of horisontal mustaehios.
shrugging of shoulders and lighting of
innumerable cigarettes, we learned
after awhile that' no hostilities or of
fensive military operations were being
planned, but merely the proper amount
of garlic in the salad being discussed,
or the superior flavor given the cham
pagne by its rocking on the long jour
ney from France. .
yhen the regularEngllsh mall steam
er failed to come on her schedule two
weeks later, everyone knew then that
there really was a war. and. added to
our apprehensions was the acutely gr
sonal one of our not getting away
from the Island at all. And thus, with
several other Americans who were anx
ious to get home, we waited more
than a week, weary, tedious waiting,
and watching the horizon line.
All the harbor lights were put out,
the lighthouse was dark, the soldiers
kept up their drill in their improvised
uniforms, the supply of flour dally
diminished, and we realized ourselves
to be actually in the clutches of the
terrible god Mars.
Our watching was finally rewarded
the morning of August 29. when the
Maital. a small vessel of about 3300
tons, glided into the harbor with the
long delayed news of the actuality of
the European war, and provided accom
modations for 24 passengers, among
whom were the German Consul and
his family, and a prominent French
doctor of Papeete going to Paris to
join the reserves. Maital is the native
word for "good," and the ship lived
up to her name by bringing her pas
sengers safely into the Golden Gate
16 days later.
VANITY PROVISION IS
ESSENTIAL IN HANDBAG
Shirred Pockets With Mirrors and Powder Flasks and Boxes More Im
portant to Milady Than Change Purse and Place for Currency.
Answers to Correspondents
suddenly two shots were sent across
his bows. Still smoking, he phleg
matically cursed the awkwardness of
the despised French, their lrrespon
sible, ineffectual target practice, won
dered between puffs of his good meer-
chaum what the rattle-brained French
captain thought he was doing with
that small boat, when two officers left
it, climbed aboard the Walkuere, and
with a revolver at this head demanded
the German's surrender and the rais
ing of the FrencH flag.
Priir Taken to Papeete.
The captain then realized that a least
these French soldiers were not so pur
poseless and devoted to frog easting as
he had supposed, and after much un
availing gesture and remonstrance the
big German prize was convoyed by the
small gunboat back to Papeete, where
it adorned the harbor and delighted the
eyes of the Tahitians.
When the captain of the Walkuere
learned that the Zelee had only one
small gun and could not possibly steam
more than seven knots to his 14 knots
and hour , he exploded with a loud
crash.
The plcturesqueness of this exploit
was further enhanced as succeeding
days went by without receiving any
further news of any kind. Then doubts
began to arise as to whether their real
ly was any war after all, and guesses
were rife as to what would happen if
the French had thus forcibly captured
a foreign vessel in times of peace.
Without morning papers, telegraphic
dispatches or any communication what
ever with the outside world, every
body's Imagination had to do treble
duty, and nobly they responded to the
call for conjecture.
Warship Are Expected.
The sighing, of the pojm branches in
the night breeze was no longer an ac
companiment to lovers' vows, but
meant that the Montcalm, a French
Late Boot 'Is Adaptable to
Dancing or Walking.
Little More Protection From Winter.
Chilled Pavements la Afforded
Than Regulation Ballroom Slipper.
THE dansants in the restaurants
will be as popular as ever this
Winter and very fetchingnew buttoned
boots are ready for dancing wear with
smart new tailored frocks of the sort
the well-dressed woman affects in the
afternoon.
One pretty dancing boot has the
curved, though not perilously tall heel.
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pancifnl Boots for Afternoon Dane-?
which is comfortable for walking and
ideal for dancing, and a light weight
welted sole admirably flexible on the
foot, but affording a little more pro
tection from Winter-chilled pavements
than the regulation turned sole of dan
cing slippers.
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
PORTLAND, Or., Sept. . Will you
kindly tell me of a way td render out beef
suet so that It will kep soft afterward
without using- cottonseed olU olive oil or
lard, because the taste of these Is objec
tionable. Thanking- yon for att early an
swer through The Sunday Oregonian.
MRS. S. O. M.
I AM sorry that the "early answer
has been impossible, absence and
illness having caused an undue ac
cumulation of work and letters for me.
You might try the following, being
careful not to let the fat get over
heated during the last part of the
cooking, as both digestibility and fla
vor would then De impaired. What
some butchers call "cod fat" gives a
softer "rendered" fat than plain suet.
A mixture of suet and ordinary beef
drippings is good, or suet and chicken
fat, if available.
Clarified Fat Wash the fat and cut
it in very small pieces, being very
careful to remove outside skin or any
morsel of meat that might cling to the
fat and give it a "strong" flavor. For
S pounds fat add 1 quart water and a
pinch of soda (not more than one-sixteenth
of a teaspoonful) and boll 1
hour. Then add 1 cup sweet fresh
milk, and cook slowly on the back of
the stove until the bits of fat have
shrivelled brown and feathery. Then
strain through a cloth. Some makers
stir in a small quantity of oiled but
ter after the fat is cool, and before it
"sets." This improves the flavor and
makes a better fat for shortening pur
poses, but of course, Increases the
cost. Others use a little bacon fat and
a few chopped vegetables to make
savory" fat tor frying, "savory fat '
is, of course, unsuitable for shortening.
A few slices of raw potato, put into
the .fat in the last stage of clarifying.
are also said to Improve the flavor.
For mincemeat and steamed puddings.
both sweet and savory, for Winter use,
the plain suet without other fat or the
addition of milk is best. This gives a
fine hard cake, which may be wrapped
in parafine paper, and will .keep fresh
for a long time.
Instead of "chopping," the necessary
amount of suet is simply "scraped" oft
the cake, which not only saves time.
but prevents the finding of too large
lumps of suet La the nnal mixture
and does away with both "taint" and
"strings two bugbears of suet cook
era This "hard cake" clarified suet
is, of course, unsuited for" ordinary
shortening or frying, the "mixed fat,"
as described above, being better for
both purposes, though it will not keep
quite so long. The amount of milk
may be slightly increased. The brown
bits of fat may be used for a "scrap
cake.
Oregon City, Or.. Oct, 4. Will you kindly
print in The Sunday Oregonlan a recipe for
ufaking piccalilli that is boiled and sealed
in jars similar to canned fruit? X made
plccalilfi by your recipe printed In the pa
per a couple of years, but have lost the
recipe. 1 mean green tmato plcalllll.
Thanking you for a prompt reply.
MRS. J. H. a.
Portland. Or., Oct. S. I mm sorry that
the inquiry tor the recipe X desire was not
made definite enough so that It was possible
for you to give recipe. But I thought per
haps there was only one recipe for the un
cooked piccalilli. So if you will kindly print
recipe for uncooked American piccalilli will
be very grateful to you. Thanking you in
advance. MHfa. K l.
Following are a few "chopped pickle'
reciDes all classed as "piccalilli." "In
dia relish" and "piccalilli" are both
rather vague overlapping terms, and
capable of many variations. I hope,
however, you will find something like
what you had in mind In this collection.
Piccalilli 1 H bushel green tomatoes.
peek green peppers, peck onions.
2 meaium-sizea caDDages, lft cups salt.
3 pounds brown sugar, 1 pound white
mustard seed, 6 ounces stick cinnamon,
3 ounces cloves, 2 ounces alspice. vin
egar to cover. Wash the tomatoes and
peppers, peel the onions, quarter the
cabbage and chop each vegetable sep
arately. Sprinkle in layers with the
salt, cover and let stand overnight.
Drain and add the sugar and mustard
seed. Place in a preserving kettle, add
vinegar to cover and the spices tied in
a bag. ' Simmer six hours. Remove the
spice bag, and seal the mixture In glass
Jars.
Piccalilli 2 3. dozen small cucumbers,
1 small head of cabbage, 2 quarts small
string beans, 3 bunches of celery, 3 red
peppers, 3 green peppers. 2 heads of
cauliflower, Vi teaspoon ground mace,
teaspoon ground alspice, V tea
spoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon
black pepper, 2 ounces mustard seed. 1
ZPjz22
'All
COMPLETER THAN ETBK IS HEW VAMTV BAG.
AHAXDBAG without vanity be
longings is pathetically like
"Hamlet" with Hamlet left out.
Change purse and pocket for bills are
not nearly as important in the eyes of
the woman shopping for a new hand
bag as cunning shirred pockets con
taining mirrors Sasks and. powder
boxes. The artful manufacturer knows
this full well and Into some of the
least expensive handbags are put dain
ty linings dainty in color, at least
with various vanity belongings in
shirred pockets. Some of the hand
somer bags, equipped with silver gilt
vanity trinkets and lined with silk run
up Into many dollars. One may pay
J35 as easily as 32.98 for a new hand
bag, provided one has the $35.
A modern bag is of fine pin seal In
a dark brown color to match the fash
ionable brown dress materials. The
lining is of apricot yellow moire silk
and the bag contains a good-sized mir
ror, powder puff, box, flask for liquid
face powder and flask for liquid rouge.
A coin purse is securely anchored to
the lining of the handbag by a cord.
clove garlic, vinegar to cover. Chop all
the vegetables rather fine, after clean
ing: cover with salted water and let
stand 2 4 hours. Train and press dry
in a colander. Pack into jars, heat the
vinegar with the spices. Pour hot
over the vegetables and eeal at once.
Piccalilli 3 One-half peck green to
matoes sliced, 2 quarts fine chopped
cabbage. green peppers chopped. 1
quart small white opions, sliced, 1 cup
sugar, 2 tablespoons English mustard,
1 tablespoon celery seed, vinegar to
cover. Sprinkle one cup salt over the
vegetables, let stand overnight, drain,
place in a kettle, cover with vinegar,
add all the other Ingredients except the
mustard. Cook one-half hour, then add
the mustard, mixed with a little cold
vinegar. Cook three minutes, then
seal in small jars.
India relish Chop, not too fine, four
quarts green tomatoes, one quart small
onions, one head cauliflower, one quart
cucumbers, six green peppers, one head
celery and a small head of cabbage.
Cover with a brine made by adding
one-half cup salt to one gallon water.
T ft atnn nvnr niht Drain well and
steam a few minutes until tender. Mlxv
meanwhile one and one-half cups sugar
and one cup flour with two tablespoon
fuls dry mustard, one tablespoon tur
meric (or If liked hot, one teaspoon
turmeric and two teaspoons curry pow
der), mix to a paste with water, dilute
with two quarts boiling vinegar and
cook until resembling boiled custard.
Add steamed vegetables, put into hot
Jars and seal at once.
Indian relish No. 2 Take equal parts
green peppers, green tomatoes and cu
cumbers (without seeds), all chopped to
the size of peas. To each gallon of the
mixture add one oup salt, mix thor
oughly and hang in a bag to drain over
night. For each gallon allow two
quarts vinegar, one ounce cloves, one
ounce mace; boil these together 20 min
utes. Remove the spice and add one
tablespoon white pepper, two table
spoons ground mustard, one teaspoon
ground ginger, one cup sugar, with
cayenne to taste. Scald the chopped
and drained pickles in this and can
while hot- If preferred pepper corns,
mustard seed and whole ginger may be
used instead of the ground spices. In
this case boil them with the cloves and
mace In small dabs, leaving one in each
pickle jar. A little celery seed may
also be used, If liked, either loose
through the pickles or in the bags.
piles to previous questions, but I have
been obliged to keep many correspond
ents waiting lately. I hope to "catch
up" soon; so send me your unanswered
questions. Some letters may have been
delayed or gone astray in following
me about the country last Summer.
Oregon City. Or. will you please give
me a recipe for canning mushrooms, and
also for mash room catsup T We have so
many now it teems a waste to let them spoil
when we are so fond of them. Thanking
you. L M.
One mushroom catsup recipe ap
peared last week. Here is a some
what different type. I will give di
rections for canning as soon as pos
sible. In the meantime, string and
dry the "flaps" (using only the fresh
pink ones.) The "button" mushrooms
are the best size for canning. You
can pickle the buttons very easily by
cleaning and dropping, as gathered
into a jar of cold slightly salted vine
gar. They shrink a good deal, so that
the jar may be refilled daily.
Mushroom Catsup Pick over, wash
and drain one peck mushrooms. Cook
with 1 cup water until soft- Rub
through a sieve. To the pulp add 2
cups vinegar, two tablespoons salt,
one-half teaspoon (or less) cayenne,
two tablespoons mustard, one table
spoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon
mace, one-half teaspoon cloves. Cook
one hour, then bottle and seal.
I must ask other correspondents to
wait a little longer for their replies.
"West port. Wash.. Sept. ii. Will you
kindly give me a recipe for India relish,
also for pumpernlckle bread? Have tried
the bread eeveral times, but as soon as it Is
put in oven It falls flat. Have -asked for
recipes before, but find no replv In Sunday
Oregonian. A SUBSCRIBER.
I hope that you will find a suitable
"India Relish!' recipe above. In regard
to "Pumpernickel." my experience Is
that it is seldom satisfactorily made at
home, best results being obtained with
a baker's oven. Here, however, are
some "pointers:" 1. German bakers
generally use "sour dough" for leaven
ing "pumpernickel," instead of ordi
nary yeast. 2. Rye meal (made like
whole wheat meal) Is necessary in
place of rye flour. 3. The bread must
be given only about "half proof," not
allowed to rise as much as ordinary
bread. 4. Many Bakers give the loaves
a few minutes In a hot oven to form a
slightly thibkened "crust" to keep in
the gas bubbles. After a few minutes
in the oven the loaves are removed and
allowed to "prove" a little longer be
fore being baked. I think these hints
may solve your difficulty. If not, write
again.
I am sorry you have not received re-
STOMACH RELIEF! NO INDIGESTION.
GAUOURNESHAPE'S DIAPEPSIN
Time It! In Five Minutes Your
Upset Stomach Will
Feel Fine.
Tou don't want a slow remedy when
your stomach is bad or an uncertain
one or a harmful one your stomach
Is too valuable; you must not injure
It with drastic drugs.
Pape's Diapepsin is noted for its
speed in giving relief; Its barmlessness,
its certain unfailing action in regulat
ing sick, sour, gassy stomachs. Its mil
lions of cures in lndVj-jrsCA dyspepsia.
gastritis and other stomach trouble has
made it famous the world over.
Keep this perfect stomach doctor in
your home keep it handy get a large
fifty-rcent case from any drug store,
and then if anyone should eat some
thing which doesn't agree with them;
If what they eat lays like lead, fer
ments and sours and forms gas; causes
headache, dizziness and nausea;- eruc
tations of acid and undigested food
remember as soon as Pape's Diapepsin
comes in contact with the stomach, all
such distress vanishes. Its prompt
nees, certainty and ease in overcoming
the worst stomach disorders is a rev
elation to those who try it. Adv.
DRUNKS' PICTURES TAKEN
Atlantic City to List Its "Jags" in
All Saloons.
ATLANTIC CITtT Oct. 5. Atlantic
City is to have a Jag list. Mayor Wil
liam Riddle made the decision sitting
as Judge in Police Court and taking
account of the number of habitual
drunkards before him.
According to the Mayor's plan, sec
ond offenders will be photographed
and copies of the pictures sent to bar
tenders. Mayor Riddle proposes to re
voke the license of saloonkeepers who
sell to men who have been pictured.
On an average the balrs on an adult's
head number about 140.000.
L00IY0UK
YERY BEST
m&-M (iVtt&M Mi
CUTICUEA
SOAP
FOR
Economy
FASHION
vHeAlth
WISE. WO ME,
KNOW WHY!
rTUE Nemo is a rich giflof
style, health and economy
to flout nomen, and also a
perfect corset for the slender.
And Cuticura Ointment, both fra
grant, super-creamy emollients, will
promote and maintain the natural
purity and beauty of the hair and
skin, the first requisites of beauty.
Samples Free by Mall
CuUeurm Seep sad OUiuneni sold throogboot the
werM. Liberal asm pie of eacti mailed tree. wltb.lA.
see. Address rcutfasuca," Dept. P, Bostoa.
SERVICE
i-i:!!"'' Io"
sarea at
- to3o a. . E
'11
All Nerrfo Fall models give the
correct shape for the new basque
styles a wee 'nip" at back and
sides; slightly higher back, made
full, so that flesh doesn't bulge
over the top.
KopService
Two model for full fig
ures, two for sleni
medium
funfigo$r
:nder and rj
Self-Reducing
Two splendid new models and
a dozen old favorites
$3-50, $4.00 and $5.00
Lastikops
The new "Unelco" Corset,
lightest strong corset ever made
53.50.
The new No. 504, for slender
or medium figures; " of lustrous
brocade $5.00.
Wearing a Nemo is
true economy they long
outwear all others.
SOLD EVERYWHERE
Kerne Hrfhsle-FsiUas IwHtela. Knr Turk
SKIN DF BEAUTY IS 0 JOT FURE"cB
Dr. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S
' ORIENTAL CREAM
OR MAGICAL BEAUTIF1ER
Removes Tan, Mis
pies. Freckles.
Moth Patches.Raab
and Skin Diseases,
and every blemtah
on beauty, and de
fies detection. It
has stood the test of
66 vears. and is so
harmless we taste
It to be sure it la
properly made. Ac
cept no counterfeit
0 of similar name.
Dr. L. A. Sayre said to lady of the hautton
(a patient): "As you ladies will use them. I re
commend 6ouraiMl's Crsaai' as the lrast harmful
of all the skin preparations." At druggists
and Department Stores.
FwlT. Hopkins 4 Son, Preps, 37 Great Janes SULTA
How to Banish
Wrinkles Quickly
It the average woman only knew It.
It Is not at all difficult to preserve the
youthful contour and velvety smooth
ness of complexion. Kvery woman
hates to see her face wrinkled or
baggy, and practically every one has
experimented with some sort of patent
remedy in the effort either to remove
such condition or ward it off.
As a matter of fact, the most effective
remedy in the world is one that any
woman can easily make up herself at
home. In a moment's time. Let her
take one ounce of pure powdered saxo
llte, which she can purchase at any
drug store, and dissolve it in a ha.lf
pint of witch hazel. Apply this harm
less and refreshing solution to the face
every day. The results are surprising
and instantaneous. Even after the
very first application a marked Im
provement is apparent. The wrinkles
are less in evidence and the face has a.
comfortable. Bmuar feeling of firmness
that is most delightful. Adv.