6
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIA.N, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 11. 1914.
CHIFFONS ADVANCE BUT AMERICAN
PRODUCT MAKES GOOD SUBSTITUTE
Daphne Silk round Loveliest of Domestic Tabrics for Dancing Dresses, Because of Airy Floating Qualities.
Maxixe Silk Also Greatly Admired in Aztec Figures Flecked With Inevitable Indian Bed.
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plucky best to keep up the fashion
interest. Many of the large Paris dress
making houses have opened branch es
tablishments In Englarld, where open
ings are being held and orders taken.
and hundreds of lovely frocks, wraps.
louses and tailleurs found their way
to America, both before and "Bince the
declaration of war. These models' are
being used as inspiration for American
adaptations and the late September
openings nave been as Interesting and
as Important from a style standpoint
as ever they were.
Silk of one weave or another forms
the principal part of every new cos
tume for formal wear and the combina
tions of embossed velvet in broadtail
effect with rich silks and satins are a
notable feature of the Fall exhibits. A
tailleur in the fashionable tete de
neere shade has a cutaway coat of
embossed velvet over a skirt of the
velvet and accordion-pleated satin noc
turne, all in the lovely mouse-brown
color. Over the accordion-pleated satin
skirt falls a sort of apron tunic pointed
at the back and open all the way up
the front to show the pleating under
neath. The coat has a long extension
or coattail at Ihe back, made of the
satin nocturne. A wide girdle of the
satin fastens at one side, near the
back, under a red silk rose, which
gives indescribable coquetry to the cos
tume. Collar and cuffs are of kolinsky.
American Product Rich.
Though French faille, recently raised
to high favor for wedding gowns, is,
of course, unobtainable now, no bride
should decide to be married in a trav
eling costume until she has examined
faille classique. a new American wov
en faille of rare beauty, richness and
luster. This comes in the desirable
ivory tint for bridal gowns, as does
also golden rod satin, heavy and rich,
yet exquisitely soft in texture.
The new faille may be had also In vari
ous fashionable shades like tapue, tete
de negre. night blue, flame, coral, sul
phur and so on, for handsome evening
wraps. A wrap just completed is of
black faille classique lined with white
pusywillow silk in satin stripe effect,
and collar and cuffs of ermine repeat
the white note of the lining. Immense
ly distinguished, also, is a dead-black
wrap of the same faille with a black
satin lining, trimming of black monkey
fur and heavy cord and tassel ties at
the front- This wrap, noted at a re
cent opening, is a reproduction of an
all-black wrap by Doucet.
Pussywillow Is for Afternoon.
Someone has called pussywillow taf
feta everywoman's silk and the phrase
has become a catchword, lor tnis soic.
beautiful taffeta has created a ver
ltable furore and even Pario has nsed
quantities of it in the past Summer
for the races and the restaurants.
A new and popular pussywillow pat'
tern for Winter use reproduces the ceil
insr of the Grand Central Station in
New York City. On a delicate blue
ground are scattered, in faint lines of
gold, the various signs of the Zodiac,
constellations and groups of stars fill
ing the open space between. The de
sign, sensational as it may seem for
dress material. Is so delicately car
ried out that it is rarely beautiful.
The pattern comes also in gold on
white.
Another pussywillow pattern that 1
popular for linings in smart tailored
coats is the checkerboard design which
comes in black and white and in va
rious colors with- white. A tailored
suit of mohair and worsted material
in a rich green shade has a black and
PRINCESSES PLAY BIG PART IN
ENCOURAGING TROOPS FOR WAR
Crown Princess Marie of Boumania Vain of Her Colonelcy in Army, While 17-Year-Old Mary of England
Works Enthusiastically in Red Cross Camp Archery Attracts Women as Sport.
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EW YORK, Oct. 10. (Special.)
Margery Ficken,-one of the pret
tiest girls in New York's smart
set, has announced her engagement to
William B. Prescott, of Boston. Miss
hite checkerboard pussywillow lining Ficken is the eldest daughter of H
CHIFFONS have gone up alarmingly i
in price, but woman does toot de
spair, for there is a clever Ameri
can fabric, sheer as sheerest voile and
practically Indestructible, which close
ly imitates chiffon. One Russian frock
model has transparent sleeves of this
voile. The tunio is also of the voile,
banded with dull braid. Bodice and
ekirt are of velour cloth and the cos
tume Is in dark green tone.
One of the loveliest of the American
woven silk fabrics is daphne silk,
which has the airy, floating quality of
chiffon and which comes in plain and
bordered patterns for dancing dresses.
This pretty frock is of orange daphne
Filk bordered with back and white
Underneath it a slip of primrose yel
low and the wide sash is of primrose
pussy willow taffeta ,with a creamy
flower set at the front
Another Mexixe silk is shown in a
dainty frock for an afternoon hostess.
On the white silk ground are scattered
queer little Aztec figures in blue and
green, with a fleck of the inevitable
Indian red found In all Mexican de
signs. The bodice and tunic are of
filet lace and net, with pipings and a
turnover collar of pussy willow silk in
pale blue. The drapery of this frock is
drawn, up at the back of the lace tunic
in graceful manner.
Russian Fitch Is Replacing
German Fur in Fashion.
Creamy Sills Hose Succeed White.
Separate Skirts HIch In Favor.
EveninK Gonru Are Weighted
With 11 ends.
1ST
IEW YORK, Oct. 10. (Special.)
Russian fitch has taken the place
of German fitch this season for rea
sons that ere obvious. The German
pelt is the finer and softer, but in gen
eral appearance the Russian fur pre
eentstquite as handsome an effect to
any but an expert. Russian fitch and
sealskin combine especially 'well and
with all the new brown tones fitch is
particularly beautiful.
White silk stockings have retired in
favor of creamy "natural" silk hose,
which are worn with bronze buttoned
strap slippers of very fanciful cut for
afternoon dancing:. These creamy, or
pale ecru-toned stockings, are much
richer in effect with black footwear,
also than the pure white silk hose.
Separate skirts and white blouses
are hirh in fashions favor and there
is a combination that seems especially
fetching:; that is, a ruffled skirt of
black pussy willow silk or crepe de
chine; a loose blouse of white crepe or
daphne silk and a long: string; of Jet
beads. There is something distinctly
chic about this combination and it
seems to be becoming; to all women.
The new evening: gowns are literally
weighted down with beads. Whole cos
tumes are seen of jet embroidered net.
made up over airy black tulle, so that
the effect is soft and graceful despite
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in red and white checkerboard. Some
of the other smart pussywillow pat
terns are the peacock design, the
pheasant desisn, satin striped effects
with futurist flower clusters, Mexixe
patterns with the Aztec prayer-for-rain
Edwards Ficken, who belongs to one
of the oldest New York families. He
has a country home at Huntington, L.
L. and a city house in the old Wash
ington Square district. Mr. Prescott is
It consisted of Jet bead shoulder straps
over a surpliced upper bodice or iiesn
tinted tulle. The effect was startling
but exceedingly smart.
all the plain colors and in various
modern patterns, including checker
board, Mexixe and bordered effects. A
dance frock of turquoise blue daphne
silk, sprinkled with orchids In pale
pink and lilac has just been completed
One way to keep the wide girdle of for a debutante-to-be. Another dainty
crushed silk down over the hips, dance frock in ner ouini is oi nesn
wlrs It belongs, these days is to sew pink pussywillow silk veiled with
one or two snao fasteners to the edge I puffed tiers of white tulle, each puff
f the srirdle underneath and to tne tied in with a sasn oi paiesc ciei rioDon.
kirt at the hip line. This is a much 1 Transparent sleeves, so fashionable
more efficacious method than the pin- now, if made of black or colored In
nlng method which some women re- destructible voile, another American
ort to. and, besides, the pins are more silk fabric of exclusive character, will
likelv than not to show, since it Is dif- be more durable than chiffon sleeves.
ficult to adjust pins neatly and firmly Afternoon frocks of black satin have
at one s back. these transparent sleeves and some
transparent tunic, edged with
and the sacred Quetzel bird on grounds a son of Mrs. Vzee Prescott. He is
of flame. Indian red, copper and Mon-1 related to frescott, ino nisionan, ana
tezune green. 1 Colonel Prescott, of Revolutionary
Daphne Silk Is Chlf fon-Ilke. I fame.
Aside from Its alrv loveliness, daphne
silk, a new American-woven silk, has Mrs. Andrew Carnegie arrived re-
the merit of being exceedingly duraDie. cently on the Mauretania, accompanied
It looks like chinon ana ii comes ln by Mr. Carnegie. Mr. Carnegie was not
feeling very happy about conditions in
ELWOOD. Ind., Oct. 6. (Special.) kolinsky.
Asserting that his 19-year-old wife, to
whom he was married two months ago,
was neglecting him, while she was re
ceivingr the attentions of his son, 24
vears old. Marion Coins. 60 years old,
appeared at the police station here, ap
parently more desirous oi receiving
sympathy than the assistance of the
officers. He was told that matters of
3
the weieht ot the jetted fabric.
gown of this sort worn at a recent
opening rose In its jetted blackness
onry to the armpits. Above this point
Europe. He refused to comment on the
rumor that the Peace Palace at The
Hague was to be turned into an ar
mory. It is reported that the people of
Roumania are anxious to side with
Russia in the present war, but the sym
pathies of the royal family are all with
Germany. The Kins of Roumania was
a son of the Prince of Hohenzollern
Sigmarlngen and was elected to his
present place in 1866. His heir is his
nephew, who is also thoroughly Ger
man, while the Crown Princess, who
is reckoned one of the prettiest of "fe
male royalty" in the world, is a daugh
ter of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg and
Gotha. '
Crown Princess Marie is not only
one of the pretty women in royal cir
cles, but she is equally picturesque.
She loves to be photographed In char
acter. A recent picture shows her in
the uniform of the Roumanian regi-
merit of which she is honorary Colonel.
Princess Mary is the only daughter
of the King and Queen of England and
although she is only 17 years old. she
is an indefatigable worker for the
Red Cross in the present war. She has
been active also in the work of the
Prince of Wales fund. A recent photo
graph of her was taken at the piano,
of which she is an industrious student.
Mrs. R. D. Elmer, wife of Dr. R. D.
Elmer, of Wayne, Pa., the champion
archer of the United States, is also a
devotee of archery. That the popular
ity of archery as an outdoor sport was ;
becoming more and more marked each
year was attested by the number of
men and women who took part in the
thirty-sixth annual tournament of the
National Archery Association of the
United States on the grounds of the
Merlon Cricket Club at Haverford. Pa
August IS, 19, 20 and 21. Men and
women from many of the large cities
of the United States were gathered at
: the tournament.
Warm Boudoir Gown May-
Keep Bad Cold Away.
cKllKee of Eiderdown Flannel and
Leopard Clotb Recommended lor
Period of Year Wnen Steam Heat
Isn't Regular Comfort.
bronze slippers and stockings of the
natural colored silk "which now are
the fad In fashiondom.
Son "Wins Father's Wife.
MANT a bad cold Is caught uo. late
October and early November be
cause there is nothing but a thin Sum-
a narrow band of skunk, fox or the raer negligee to slip on after the bath.
modish but ramer expensive Russian i At tnis season, wnen it is bo warm uu
times
BOY OF U JOINS ARMY
Canadian Minister's Rnnaway Son
Becomes United States Soldier,
summery at mid-day that furnace heat
seems absurd in suggestion, the morn
ings and nights are apt to be cold
sometimes actually frosty, and it is the
time of times to have ready something
warm and cosy ih the way of peignoir
or"" boudoir gown. By and bye, when
the steam heat has been turned on, the
thin silk or cotton negligee may be
RT. PATTT.- Oct 6 AnDarently Im
rpnewin? love were outside the police I h,,h with tVi snirtt of militarism. Ed- I worn acain with comfort, but Just now
work. ward Traston, 14 years old, joined the I It is really not warm enough to sit
; United States Army at Fort Snelling 1 about in at night especially.
1- r .1 "VY7 1 1 within a few days after he accompanied I Batngowns or eiderdown iiannei ana
XVI en US OI tne WeeK j his father from his home at St. Johns, leopard cloth, bound at the edge with
N. B.. to. Minneanolis to visit friends. I silk, may be obtained ax sucn reason-
Rev. Miles S. Traston missed his son I able price that it hardly pays to make
a week ago, and it developed that he I this sort of negligee at home, but wnen
had ioined the Army. Recruiting offl- I it comes to neignoire of soft albatross,
cers say the youth declared himself to lined throughout with silk the ideal
be 18 years old and an orphan, and cool weather garments, which are botn
after the regular procedure he was per- warm and dainty many dollars often
mitted to join the Army. I may be saved by purchasing the ma
In asking his immediate discharge terials by the yard and doing the
the lad's father insists tnat irregular
methods were employed and demands a
thorough investigation.
When the lad left his father a week
ago he said he was going to a Salvation
Army meeting.
SHELL PLAYTHING BURSTS
Three Children Probably Fatally In
jured Beating One-Pounder.
NEW YORK. Oct. 6. Fired with
military spirit. Thomas Mulraney, 7
years old. and Timothy and John Hor-
gan, brothers, aged 7 and 8 years, re-
pectively, carried a one-pound Hotch-
kiss explosive shell into the basement
of an empty store in East Eighty-ninth
street today and began to beat it on
the nose with an iron pipe. As a result
Thomas and Timothy are in the Recep
tion Hospital and will die. John Hor
gan was blown through the basement
oor into the street and will recover.
For two weeks the boys have had
the shell, but did not know what it
really was until a few days ago, when
omeone told them there was powder in
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
' Tuesday.
Lima bean coup.
Celery loaf with creole sauce.
Scalloped potatoes.
Sweet fruit salad. Wafers.
Coffee.
Wednetilay.
Cream of celery soud.
Rolled breast of lamb. Savory dressing.
Brown potatoes. auncea carrots.
Lettuce salad.
Stewed peas with cream.
Coffee.
Thursday.
Barley broth.
Stuffed peppers. Tomato sauce.
Mashed potatoes.
Lettuce salad.
Apple pie.
Coffeo.
Prlday.
Vegetable puree.
Baked salmon. Cucumber sauce.
Boiled potatoes.
Apple and celery salad.
Rice cream.
Coffee.
Saturday.
Brown onion soup.
Pickled lamb tongues. Raisin sauce.
Baked potatoes.
Sliced tomato salad.
Scalloped apples.
, Coffee.
(Sunday.
Seedless srape cocktail.
Roast veaL Bacon dressing.
Sweet potatoes. Cauliflower.
Lettuce salad.
Peach Charlotte.
Coffee.
Monday.
Tomato soup.
Sliced veal in casserole,
with potatoes and peas.
Lettuce salad.
Baked apples.
Coffee.
work in one's own sewing-room. A
negligee is easy to make, provided one
has a good pattern, for there is no ne
cesslty for careful fitting or draping
the Scylla and Charyodas ot tne in
expert home dressmaker. Four yards
of double-width albatross or cashmere,
with an equal amount of India silk or
the lovely daphne silk which is soft
and clinging in texture, will make
luxurious peignoir. White albatross
lined with pale blue or pink and
trimmed with ribbons to match is the
usual choice for milady s boudoir.
Sometimes a little hand embroidery, or
a scallop and dot design in the tint of
the silk lining is put on collar and
cuffs.
For an October bride has been made
a boudoir gown of pale corn-colored
cashmere with a lining of daphne silk
to match. Big sailor collar and turned
back cuffs are scalloped with silk
shade deeper in tone, and the front o
the negligee closes with snap fasteners
seriously discussed as a possible under a cascade of cream lace A sir
BIG PEANUT IS DEVELOPED
Variety Brought to Sacramento From
Alabama Declared Excellent.
SACRAMENTO, Oct. 8. Children,
elephants and monkeys will be de
I lighted to know that North Sacramento
is to present to Northern California for
I the first time during tne state iair
new peanut, said to be larger and more
delicious than the old standby.
It has recently been developed in
1 Alabama and was transplanted here by
C. W. Johnston. It has thrived won
derfully in North Sacramento and is
beins
I addition to the district's 67 products.
Isn't it true that yon dread a good
many thinsrs that can't hurt you?
die made of little yellow silk roses
sewed to yellow ribbon, drops low over
the hips. With this lovely and cosily
warm boudoir gown will be worn
AMERICAN FABRICS TAKE PLACE OF
FOREIGN GOODS CUT OFF BY WAR
Silks and Velvets Woven and Dyed in United States Are as Beautiful as Imported Stuffs and Promise in
Future to Hold Equal Bank Material for All Purposes Is Offered HeTe.
MAMMA. DADDY AND CHILDREN ALL
LOVE "CALIFORNIA SYRUP OF FIGS'
I O woman need despair this season
because her favorite silks and
velvets are unobtainable on ac
count of the war. American manufac
turers have come valiantly to the res
cue, and so beautiful and distinguished
are the materials presented for selec
tion, fabrics woven and dyed right
here in America, that after the war
is over it is safe to predict that these
American materials will hold equal
rank with imported stuffs.
Almost the moment war was declared
chiffons. mouBselines and nets of for
eign manufacture jumped in price, and
women who had set their hearts on
Winter evening gowns of these fabrics
had a, sinking of the heart; but it waa
speedily discovered that just as airy,
just as beautiful materials, in colors
as soft and exclusive, could be ob
tained in the shops and the march of
Winter fashions has not been one whit
delayed so far as America is concerned.
Fashions were well established by
the beginning of August and even since
then Paris couturiers nave done their
I
Harmless "Fruit Laxative'
Cleanses Stomach, Liver -
and Bowels.
A delicious cure for constipation,
biliousnesa, sick headache, sour stom
ach, indigestion, coated tongue, eal
lowness take "California Syrup of
Figs." For the cause of all this dis
tress lies in a torpid liver and sluggish
bowels.
A tablespoonful toftight means all
constipation, poison, waste matter, fer
mentlner food and eour bile gently
moved out of your system by morning
without griping. Flease don't think of
"California Syrup of Figs" as a physic.
Don't think you are drugging yourself
or your children, because this deliciou
fruit laxative cannot cause injury.
Even a delicate child can take it
safely as a robust man. It is the mos
harmless, effective stomach, liver an
bowel regulator and tonic ever devised
Tour only difficulty may be in get
ting the genuine, so ask your druggis
for a 60-cent bottle of "Californi
Syrup of Figs." Say to your druggis
"L want only that made by the 'Cal
fornla Fig Syrup Company.' " This city
has many counterfeit "fig syrups,"' so
watch out. Adv.
the brass chamber. They decided today
to knock off the steel nose and get at
the powder and then set it on fire. They
tried first to pull the steel shell out of
its jacket, but that did not work, so
they began pounding It With a deto
nation that was heard several blocks
the shell exploded.
Detectives learned from James Smith.
8 years old, that a painter who found
the shell in a house he was decorating
had given it to the boys, and that the
boys told him several days ago that
they wanted to And out "what cannon
balls looked like." Smith did not know
the painter's name.
National Movement.
(Louisville Courier-Journal.)
"Hubby, as an appeal for the suf
frage, we suffragists are going to aH
wear red gowns. As a silent protest,
the anti-suffragists are going to come
out in green gowns. As a counter pro
test, we propose to come back with
purple gowns."
"Well, what of it?"
"That will be ?S0 for me, please."
ow to arouse a
sluggish sldnH
ill
A dull, sallow, lifeleSs com
plexion has several causes.
Whatever the causa in your
case, your skin needs stim
ulating. The following treatment is
the most effective you can use
To refresh your skin
Just before retiring, wash
your face and neck with plenty
of Woodbury's Facial Soap and
hot water. If your skin has been
badly neglected, rub a generous
lathftrintothenores vervthoroup-hlv
with an upward and outward motion, until the skin feels somewhat
sensitive. After this, rinse well in warm, then cold water. Then
rub your skin five minutes with a lump tfiti and dry thorouehly
Woodbury Facial Soap is the work of an authority on the
skin and its needs. This treatment with it cleanses the pores,1
brings the blood to the face arid stimulates the fine muscular fibres
of the skin. You can feel the difference the first time you use it
a promise of that lovelier complexion which the steady use of
Woodbury's always brings.
Woodbury's Facial Soap costs 25c a cake. No one hesitates
at the price after Ihtir first eakt.
Do this today Now! Ttar tuttht illustration of the eaie
helvw and put it in four purse as a reminder to get IFoodburj'i. '
J ear out the cake novo. Take it to your druggist or toilet coun
ter today. "Begin tonight to get the benefits of this facial soap.
For sale by dealers everywhere.
Woodburys
FacialSo
Tin Andrew Jergens Company
- Spring Grot e Avenue
Cindnnati.O.