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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 27, 1914)
COSTUME FOR SMALL DAUGHTER FOLLOWS MOTHER'S IN MANY WAYS New Coat for Autumn of Blue and White Checked Worsted Worn With Flowered Silk Hat Is in Vogue Heavy Linen, Ratine and Similar Fabrics Furnish White Frocks for Cold Weather. r-: ' -'j?r ' " zp y i , i x - ' ' - I i taC J i J, . - a to1 r -V J -ij' 'V iM 'i t r Hi -1 K w " - ' - wll - ; , " - - ' ' ' -; 1 1 !: i, "'. . v ml rj ------ 1 - I 4- -e 'f ' J " JC ZI JL , 1 "Sk i K r J foe 1 z&" or ?z clScgue. ST2 CZz?a6. TUB small girl's costume dupll llcates 'her mamma's In many re spects. A new coat for Autumn has more than a suggestion of the fashionable basque, flare tunic and low belt. The coat is of blue and white checked worsted with covered buttons of the material. Worn with a blue and white flowered silk hat banded " with blue pussy willow taffeta and with white stockings and bupttoned boots, the new coat presents a smart, fresh and seasonable appearance. The finest machine embroidery im itating handwork, is combined with net footing in a dainty frock for a wee girl. The long waist is much full er than the narrow little skirt, though two frills of the footing lend the Jatter an effect of fullness. A yoke of the fine needlwork stretches across the shoulders and down over the sleeves and is outlined all around with a frill of the net footing. The sash of pale blue satin ribbon passes under a casing of the net and the ribbon ends are tied in a bow, at the back. . The mother who likes to keep her .young daughter in white the year round, selects frocks of heavy lln in, ratine and similar tub fabrics for cold weather wear. A frock of white ratine has a collar and belt motif embroidered by hand with blue GIRLS OF "FLAPPER" AGE COME IN . FOR RECOGNITION FROM DESIGNER Instead of Unattractive Garments so Lately Only Dress for Awkward Age, Younger Misses Are Now Provided With Numerous Smart Frocks Bringing Out Pretty Lines, Once Thought Unproportionate. (jpLAPPER" is a word that has J come into fashion in America during the last twelvemonth, though the term has been familiar in England for a generation. The "flapper" period of girlhood covers what Is known here as "the awkward age" that try ing stretch between alluring little girl hood and budding young womanhood, the rapidly growing time between 10 ana 14 years when arms and legs seem disproportionately long, feet and hands are always in the way, the hair simply will not remain tidily and becomingly arranged, and the teeth either are too large for the mouth or require some bracing and straightening process. The poor little "flapper" so lately a spoiled and petted baby girl who was always fascinating, no matter how naughty, suddenly finds herself pleas ing to nobody. If she takes up any thing she is warned sharply not to break it. If she stands about she is admonished to hold her shoulders back; if she sits down she is told that she is too big a girl ow to sprawl. If she runs joyously out of the house she is summoned back to "shut the door quietly." If she frequents the draw-.ing-room at tea hour remembering the frosted cakes that used to fall to her share she is urged not to "hang around, that's a good child: but go away and play"; this because her grow ing and curious little mind has become an Impediment to unrestrained adult conversation. French DlHcover Beauty. Time was when the "Flapper" was hurried through her awkward age In practical but not alluring garb whose chief merit was that it could be let down and let out to accommodate her f tretching proportions. Then a great French designer of children's apparel perceived how really beautiful are the slim and lissome lines of youthful girl , hood, and special frocks, hats and coats were built to make the "awkward age" v ft';1!'! t - f ?: ft Lf - - y i XKazf -r2c SY&e tzfJk - cotton. The waist fastens with white crochet buttons and loops and the belt I "p inaieners, so mat me little I as fascinating in its way as dimpled babyhood or the sweet curves of young maidenhood. For the "flapper" this Fall there are most graceful school frocks patterned after Russian models; that is, with low, loose belts separating simple, long waisted bodices from full tunics. Such a frock Just completed for a girl of 11 years old, is of navy blue serge. A box-pleated tunic falls to the hem top of a narrow skirt. Just covering the knees. Between the pleated tunic and long-waisted bodice is a five-inch stitched belt of the serge which is so loose that the waistline is not defined at alL The bodice has long sleeves and fastens in surplice effect over aadeep chemisette of white pique which has a wide collar that rolls over the serge bodice 'at the back. The bodice front closes with. snap fasteners, better for children's garments than hooks and eyes, which impatient little fingers soon loosen and pull out of place; and a double row of small nickel buttons outlines the surplice fastening and adds gaiety to the somber but smart little school costume. With this serge frock will be worn black stockings and but toned boots of black calf with tops of twilled cloth. Simple Frocki May Be Smart. Mohair and mohair mixed with worsted are fabrics on which the mother relies for school wear, since these materials do not crease ' easily and may be shaken free of dust In a twinkling, v Very simple frocks of mo hair, serge or the distinctive mohair and wool mixture which comes in such charming colorings are brightened and daintified in childish effect by sashes, novel belt arrangements and chemi settes. "Very practical for Indian Sum mer schooldays are the models in sleeveless style which may be worn over a sleeved guimpe of some thin tub material. Such a frock of snuff brown mohair and worsted mixture, was noted TITE SUNDAY OREGOXIAy, PORTI-AST. girl may get Into and out of her frock without aid. JAIL ENDS WAR ON HAT Father Complains Son Broke New Straw Headgear for Him. BOSTON, Sept. 18. "I came home with a straw hat on," said Michael Whitty, testifying against his son George in a South Boston court. "George was there, and he said, "Didn't you hear the bell? Straw hats have gone out,' I told him it was none of his business, and he busted my hat and mussed me up." "One month' for assault," said the Judge. "Another month for drunken ness and three months for being idle and disorderly. That is Ave months In alL" Trimmings on Snits Fur. The Dry Goods Economist says that a notable feature of the new suits is the amount of fur trimming which is being employed. Collars and cuffs of fur are particularly desirable. In some instances narrow bands of fur edge the entire coat. In some of the more ex pensive suits fur trimming is being used on the long tunics. Among the furs which are being favored is beaver, which is considered very smart this season. Skunk. mink. chinchilla. saulrrel. ermine, -broadta.il Wn flnnn seal, monkey and fitch are' all being employee on tne new Winter .suits. on a well-dressed little maid the other dayt The skirt had three circular flounces reaching to the waist, where there was a loose belt of brown suede with a wide, covered buckle. The wide, loose armholes were bound with brown silk braid, as was also A deep U cut down in the front of the bodice. Below the U was a double line of small flat gilt buttons. Under this sleeveless bodice was worn a guimpe chemisette of ecru batiste with long bishop sleeves and a tucked front fastening with small pearl buttons. The little maid slim as a match in her "flapper" frock, wore black buttoned boots and black stock ings, and her hair was tied back at the shoulder line with a wide black taf feta ribbon. Belt la Eliminated. Another "flapper frock" for warm Autumn days dispenses with a belt, a long-waisted bodice in waistcoat ef fect coming down over the skirt. This costume is of finely checked blue and green worsted and all edges, except the bottom of the skirt, are bound with narrow black silk braid. The skirt is pleated all around, but falls in narrow flat lines. The bodice is ex actly like a man's waistcoat, except that its length is exaggerated, the points in front falling below the hips, and the armholes are deeply cut out to show the guimpe beneath, which is of white handkershief lawn trimmed with little hemstitched frills. In front the waistcoat has a line of pearl buttons, but the closiDg is effected with snap fasteners. Two pockets, .also braid bound at the edge, trim the fronts of the waistcoat. In selecting the little girl's Fall wardrobe dainty frocks for special days at school must not be forgotten, though actual party frocks for Winter festivities may be left for considera tion later. Though the little maid is soberly dressed in serge and mohair for study and play hours,' charm runs riot In her gala frocks, which are the essence of grace and glrlishness. Here also tne clever designer alms toward emphasizing the "flapper" slenderness which is now considered' exquisite ramer man awkward and deplorable. Blue ChalUe la Pretty. For a girl of 11 a pretty frock has Just been purchased ready-made. Skirt ana Doaice, joined under a loose sash, are of blue challie flowered in old pink. The skirt has two gathered ruffles and between them is a ruffle of old pink pussy willow taffeta, the sash being also of this silk. The sleeveless bodice is loose and is tied together at the snouiders with bows of the old pink silk. Underneath is a gathered chemi sette of white batiste, with elbow sleeves tied in under bands and bows of pink silk. Another charming frock of Copen hagen blue daphne silk has a three tiered skirt and a surplice bodice open ing over a chemisette of fine hand embroidery. A sash of panne velvet In the soft Copenhagen blue color" has flat ends which hang at one side. Blue silk stockings and buttoned boots of patent leather and dull calf complete this costume. Fur Trimmings Extensively in Demand on Fur Hats.' Black Velvet Combined With. Fitch and Ermine, With Decorations of Flonera and Lace, Suggested. ' ACCORDING to the Dry Goods Economist, velvet hats continue strong, both in hand-blocked and in hand-made hats. Fur hats are appear ing on the horizon. These are light, flexible models, warm and cozy, yet with a great deal of style about them. Black velvet comoined with fitch, er mine and "kolinsky" fur a dyed imi tation sable are spoken of, with trim mings of flowers and gold lace. Monkey skin has the big call for edg ings and trimmings on hats. .Skunk, both genuine and imitation, has a host of followers: fitch, opossum, blue fox and conveys of all kinds are in demand. Half and one-inch bands of fur trim mings make a striking effect and are used extensively. Tall, Close Collars Are Ap pearing for Winter. Drrollete Blouse and Bodice Will Have No IMace In Seaaon'a Smart Clothes, From I'rrstnt Indications. THERE are Indications that tall, close-fitting stock collars will be a part of the Winter sartorial scheme, though ' as yet they swathe only the back and .sides of the throat, the front of the collar being slashed down in a V that makes for comfort at least a lit tle while longer. Sometimes a pleated frill stands up from the tall collar at the back, in creasing the effect, of .height, but the decollete bodice and blouse are go-' ing out of fashion and rarely does the V at the front, in the newest models, extend below the throat line. Smart little cravats attached by snap fas teners are made of various materials and in various colors and with several of these little cravats and two smart blouses a number of neck finishes may be effected. The shops these days are overflow ing with simple, good-looking blouses for wear with Autumn tailored suits. For morning wear there are blouses of tucked batiste and hemstitched lin en, exquisitely finished in every, de tail, but smartly simple In design. Afternoon blouses are of the thin, soft silken stuffs like Georgette crepe, daphne silk and the lovely pussy wil low taffeta which, because of its exces sive popularity, has been called every wamon's silk. Dull finished, suede-like worsteds have the favor for Fall tailleurs. Ga bardine holds a high place, so does a rich, soft wool and silk texture called broadcloth satin. Mohair and worsted woven together produce a fabric of ex ceeding distinction and, since this mix ture comes in particularly charming shades, it is favored by the best tailors for deml-saison wear and is now being made up in graceful models for Oc tober and November days. The wise woman who returns to town in dire need of new footwear does not spend her dollars on pumps which will be incorrect from the moment chill breezes begin to blow, but for the street purchases the smartest buttoned boots she can find. These will have long, daintily shaped toes, moderately high. curved heels and tops of contrasting material. Several Pairs of Boots to Woman's Wardrobe. Late Deslgrm of Pretty Points Is of Gnnmetal Calf and Fai-rn-Colored Kid. IN EVERY woman's wardrobe now must be several pairs of dainty dress boots, as well as the practical boots for shopping and runabout use. Since most of the dress boots are deli cate affairs of thin sole, high heel and light colored, buttoned top, one pair win last its possessor about a fort night, unless she has several other pairs for alternate wear. One pretty dress boot is of gunmetal calf and fawn colored kid, the buttoned toD coming down to the heel at the back In an effect that is always more dainty than when vamp and quarter are of dark leather. The boot has a light welted sole and the sort of heel that is admirable for dancing. For every-day wear there should be serviceable boots also in the buttoned style, with tops of dull kid and vamns of patent leather or gunmetal calf. Light colored buttoned tops are used on all street boots now, even those with heavy welted soles and low heels. but the style is suitable really for a dress boot only, and the runabout boot should not call attention to itself by its coquetry of style. r ...... t ' i ! ' . 1 jl . L i Dress ,Boet for Autumn. SEPTILVrimT 27, 1914. CHIC CAPES ADD MILITARY AIR - TO GIRLS OF GRADE SCHOOL AGE Morning Coats to Wear on Chilly Hours Before Furnace Heat Warms Home Are in Favor, While Smart Tail ored Hat of Snow-White Velour Is Popular for Church or Dancing School. C A - o? 1N , -A - v s: 4 tv-AX V" - - , - s " " x f v , l-', , i . V - - V ,- - " i 7 s Ay- . , x -:m..rx CAPES are always beloved by chil dren. They give the street coat a rakish military air, altogether de sirable, and when capes are in fashion. children make the most of them. This new capecoat for school and play wear is an admirable model of most practical features. The cape is cut out in deep scallops which are buttoned to the coatfront and does not interfere with the arms or the carrying of school books and luncheon box. The coat covers the frock entirely and is ac companied by an equally practical velour hat. Buttoned boots with tops WAYS TOLD TO ARRANGE HAIR OF SCHOOL CHILD Parting Locks on Side and Tying Topknot on Opposite Side Suggested When Waviness Is Absent Curls Simplify Task. SMALL, Marjorle having arrived at the schoolgirl age, it is considered proper to allow her hair to grow. since childish rompers haying been abandoned, bobbed-off hair is also un der the ban. But, alas! what a dis couraging stretch there is between the 'bobbed" period and tresses long enough to be trimly tied back with the ribbon bow of young girlhood! If the little maid has curly locks the problem is much simplified; but if her hair is straight and shows a tendency. as it lengthens, to cung against ner head in limp strings, there is often great difficulty in keeping it tidily ar ranged in becoming fashion. It is an imposition on happy childhood to tor ture the growing hair with curling devices except upon those important occasions when waved tresses and curling locks seem really necessary to match a gala costume. Alternatives Are Objectionable. No mother with good sense will ap ply hot curling Irons to a child's hair and the "doing-up" process at night often causes real torture to little heads that cannot lie comfortably on the lumpy "done-up" knobs that promise tomorrow s curls. If the little girl's hair is straight. the best way to arrange it tidily for September school days, will be to part it at one side and tie the topknot at the opposite side of the head with a ribbon. When the locks have grown long enough to reach the shoulders, two braids may be made, the hair being parted evenly from forehead to nape of neck. Elastics Drier Growth. The short braids should be turned back and fastened firmly with bits of baby ribbon (never use. elastics on a child's hair or the tender ends will split and the healthy growth of the hair be interfered with) and over the stubby little braids tie big bows of crisp ribbon. This arrangement of twin bows is very becoming to a bright childish face; and the neatly braided and tied hair will, remain in present able condition all day long. If the child's hair is curly, and falls about her face and on her shoulders in soft waves and lovely curls, the braid- y R SKIH OF BEAUTY IS A JOT FOREVER Dr. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER Removes Tan. Pim ples. Freckles, Moth Patches. Raaa and Skin Diseases, Slid every blemish on beauty, and de fies detection. It has stood the test of 46 years, and is so harmless we taste it to be sure it is properly made. Ac cept no counterfeit ESS of similar name. Tr. I A. Sayre said to lady of the hautton (a patient): "As you ladies will use them, I re commend 'Gsorsud's Cream' as the least harmful of all the skin preparations." At drug-fists and Department Stores. Fart T. Hipklns & Son. Props, 37 6r3t Jon SUH.T.C. YS 17 of cloth correctly accompany the street costume. Not a sweater Is one fetching little double-breasted Jacket, but a cozy cold morning coat for hours before the fur nace heat has sufficiently warmed the atmosphere. The little coat Is of knitted pink Shetland wool and has a turnover collar, cuffs and buttons of heavier worsted in closely knitted stitch. The coat fits trimly across the shoulders but flares toward the lower edge. , Just the thing for Sunday morning, or for week-day afternoons when danc ing school is the occasion in view, is a ing process which takes time, is un necessary. In fact curly hair should not be braided at all. since braiding will tend to destroy the curl in the hair. l'artlne Locks on Side la Style. Part the locks far over at one side of the head, and draw the hair softly and loosely across the top, fastening it at the opposite side over the ear, with one of the small shell pins which come for this purpose. The ends of the drawn across lock will- form a loose curl, hanging a little shorter than the Conspicuous ' How to reduce them Complexions otherwise flawless are often ruined by conspicuous nose pores. In such cases the small muscular fibres of the nose have become weakened and do not keep the pores closed as they should be. Instead these pores collect dirt, clog up, and become enlarged. Begin tonight to use this treatment Wring a cloth from very hot water, lather it with Woodbury's Facial Soap, then hold it to your face. When the heat has expanded the pores, rub in very gently a fresh lather of Woodbury!. Re peat this hot water and lather appli cation several times, supping at nct if your nast ftels seniitivt. Then finish by rubbing the nose for a few minutes -with a. lump ice. Woodbury's Facial Soap cleanses the pores. This treatment with it strengthens the muscular fibres of the nose pores so that they can contract properly. But do not expect to change in a week a condition resulting from years of neglect. Use this treat ment persistently. It will gradually reduce the enlarged pores and cause them to contract until they are inconspicuous. Woodbury's Facial Soap is the work of a skin specialist. It costs 25c a cake. No one hesitates at the price after their first take. Do this today Now? Tear tut the illustration of the eaie heloaa and put it in your purse as a reminder to get ffoodbury's. Tear out the eaie nota. Take it to your druggist or toilet coun ter today. "Begin tonight to get the benefits of this facial soap. For sale by dealers everywhere. Woodhurys racial oo The Andrew Jergrns Company Sprint Grot Avenue Csnciunati.O. smart tailored hat of snow white ve lour. The big crown fits down com fortably over the head and at one side the brim is caught back under a know ing cockade of pleated white grosgrain ribbon. The hat accomnanics a. roat of Copenhagen blue broadcloth with collars and cuffs of black velvet. other curls, which rest on the shoul ders. Over the shell pin, if desired, may be tied a perky ribbon bow. Since the constant tying and untying of the hair bow soon reduces ribbon to a limp rag, one resourceful mother has made a little band of ribbon which snap fastens around the pinned back hair. Bow la Setred On. A crisp bow is sewed firmly to the ribbon band and there is no necessity for untying the bow when the hair is arranged. When the hair reaches below the shoulders and the girl has attained the dignity of 10 or 11 years old. another coiffure is ready for her. The front hair is softly parted in the middle and drawn back in loose waves to the crown, where a shell pin holds it. Then all the ends, curly or straight, are caught together Just below the shoul ders under a bow of wide ribbon. Of course your lodge is the best on earth. Now let go of our coat lapels, for there is a living to make. N ose ores '' toes. 13
