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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 20, 1914)
7 CHARM REVEALED IN NEW CIRCULAR CAPE CARRYING VOLUMINOUS FOLDS Velvet, Striped or Fancy, Is Entering Largely Into Trimming of Suits Today Graceful Silhouette Obtained by Circular Tunic. ay e 'v ' str?PK. " ": V- i' II A CIRCULAR cape hanging.! roin the shoulders involuminous folds, a bit long-er at the sides than In the back, and with a pleated collar, worn only In the bacK, is one of Bechoff David's newest creations. 'For this charming cape a raisin colored corduroy- has been called into service and with it Is used the scantiest of trimming- a bit of fitch fur binding; the cdffe of the novel shaped collar. Velvet, striped or fancy, is entering larg-ely into the trimming- of suits this season, frequently forming- cuffs and collar of military or sailor design, and to considerable extent replacing the more sombre velvet of previous sea sons. With these novelty velvets, fab ric furs are sometimes combined, either forming the entire suit or wrap, or being used as a border on tunic or hem. A graceful silhouette Is obtained by a circular tunic, without too great a flare, sloping slightly to a point in the back and with the tunic of the coat following in design the tunic of the skirt. To wear a cape or not to wear a cape Is the question of great moment at present in the mind- of the fashionable woman, and its solution has to some degree been reached by the simple means of wearing a coat and over the coat, wearing a cape. Not wishing to be enveloped by the cape, she buttons It to the back of the coat across the shoulders and buttons the ends of the cape to her coat sleeve just above the cuff. The coat itself frequently flares loosely in imitation of the cape above Sacred Custom Lost With Forgotten Family Album. History of Generations, Once Found on Leave. Gives Way 'to Evtt chanKluK Kodak Pictures. A GOOD old custom, regrettably discontinued these modern days, was the maintaining of a "family al bum." In this there were sacredly kept the likenesses of family, friends, rela tions and "in-laws"; for in those days, before ithe popular-priced kodak made photographs of everybody cheap and easy, there was a distinction and a sacredness about a personal picture. -It was something- be cherished. One turns over the leaves of one of these old. albums and reads the history of three generations. Here are grand father and great-grandfather, father when he was a little boy; Aunt Katie in her crinoline dressed for her first ball; Uncle George in a plaid jacket, and a curl on top of his head: Aunt Artemisia and Aunt Caroline, the one in a fringed mantel with a waterfall, the other in a puffy, bustl&d gown of the '80s. But here they all are and valuable indeed is such an album to the descendant who is proud of race, and has this undying record of other generations. Nowadays family photographs either are so expensive that only the most favored relative may have copies there of; or they are so cheap because any one may print from camera films, that no importance is attached to them out side of the immediate family who for a while prop up Brother Tom in his car. or Sister Lulu in her bathing suit, on the bureau, until something more in teresting in a snapshot comes along. One cannot help wishing that the family album again might be an estab lished article in the home and that really good photographs of every mem ber of the family taken every - five years or so might find a place therein for the pleasure and benefit of genera tions to come. Personally, we never could be fond of the kind of man who wants to an alyze everything we say and prove that there is no sense to it. 4vrV ;M z?' TINY WISP REPLACES APRON MOTHER WORE Instead of Creation Enveloping Entire Body, Bit of Dainty Cloth, "With Delicate Trimming, Used by Woman of Today. !N days of yore, when grandmoth er, or even great-grandmother en gaged in or directed the great amount of cooking that was needed by her household, she approached the task enveloped in a huge apron from shoulder to foot. And sometimes the length of the apron was augmented by a vast width of gathers, so that not even the tiniest speck of her frock could be touched by the cookery. But the apron of this design has passed into oblivion and nowadays when mi lady cooks she uses a fireless- cook er or a gas stove, minus ashes and" dust. This, for the substantial dishes with which she spreads her board. For the chafing-dish party, when friends are present, and-she has ev ery wish to look , her best, she wears an apron, but such an apron! A-fril r- I - ' ly dainty wisp of an affair ofdminu tive size and to, the observer it ap pears to be much less of an apron in reality than in name. Organdy, a bit of lace, a bow of ribbon, a tiny bib, ana behold the apron. Or, for'-variety, handkerchief linen, embroidered either in white or in colors and finished around the edge with Irish plcot. Answers to Correspondents Jderrlll. Or. Aug. 7. I would like & deo ipe tor Boston baked beans. will you please answer in The-Weekly Oregonlan, ot which I am a aubscriber? Thanking you in advance. . a SUBSCRIBER. Boston baked beans It is seldom that tfce very small pea beans, or "Teal" Boston beans, can be obtained in Ore- I gon. At least so I am assured by cer tain Boston friends. However, the fol lowing will prove a satisfactory dish, even If the beans are not "real" Boston: Soak one quart smallest size pea beans over night In cold water. In the morn ing drain, add fresh water to cover. Add i teaspoon soda and teaspoon salt. Heat slowly and simmer gently so as to soften without bursting them. This may be done in a fireless cooker, home -nade or otherwise, or on the back of the stove. Test them by taking a few in a spoon and blowing on them. If they burst slightly the beans are ready for the next step. Drain them in a colander and place In an earthen Bos ton bean pot with a narrow mouth and close fitting cover. Scald the rind of one-half pound fat salt pork, scrape, remove one-quarter Inch slice and score the rest ot the rind, one inch deep In one-half-inch strips. Bury the pork In the beans leaving- only the rind ex posed. Mix one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon dry mustard, one -or two tablespoons molasses ' and one or two tablespoons ' brown sugar. Whether more or less molasses and - sugar is used Is really a matter to be decided by personal taste. Add one cup boiling water, pour the mixture over the beans, adding a little more hot water if neces sary so as to barely cover them. Cover the bean pot and bake slowly, adding water if needful, from 8 to 12 hours, leaving uncovered during the last hour so that any superfluous water may evaporate and the bacon rind become crisp and brown. Part of the cooking may be done In the fireless cooker, but the Test flavor Is developed by long, slow baking in an old-fashioned oven. Tips Are Gathered From Unique Creations. Sarah Slddona Ntckbaad In Daring Mode Panama Trimming HI ay Be ' Changed Parcel Post Aid to Week-End Visit. THE Sarah Siddons neckband of nar row black velvet continues in favor among younger women. There is some thing inexpressibly coquettish about this bit of black velvet around a white throat. The ribbon is tied In a pert bow under one ear;- and In conjunction with the small hat tipped rakishly over the opposite ear, the Sarah Siddons J neckband is as saucy and daring a mode as has been seen in many a day. There are -ways and ways of trimming the sport Panama. The athletic woman clings to the band and -flat bow of black grosgrain ribbon in mannish syle; the essentially feminine woman winds a scarf of pussy willow silk in becoming color around the crown. The girl who adores color winds her Pana ma with striped ribbon or silk In vivid Mexican pattern. A good plan is to make all these trimming adjustable with snap-fasteners so that they may be changed at will, according, to the costume. The woman who carries only a trav eling bag with her on the week-end visit has to leave at home many things that make for comfort, such as negli gee, sunhat, room slippers and so on; for there is no space in her bag . for more than the required toilet articles, a night-gown and an extra frock. If one is on intimate terms with one's hostess-to-be, a package containing some of these things may be sent by parcel post a day or two ahead. In any event, a pair of the soft-leather heeless slippers which come folded in a leather envelope for a dollar, may be tucked into a corner of the bag and will form a comfortable exchange for high-heeled buttoned boots and pumps in one's bed room. The woman who is planning for a be-tween-season frock of mohair. or wor sted and mohair fabric should make her selection of material at once .for naturally the price of this English wo ven stuff is likely to increase mater ially if the war lasts long. Crepe mo hair and mohair and worsted mixtures are greatly liked by the French dress makers who rely on these fabrics for Spring and Fall use, and build them into very distinguished costumes. A plum-colored mohair and worsted frock just completed for Autumn trotter wear, has a pleated tunic and low belted basque above a skirt of black satin. The belt is of black velvet. A hemstitched . linen flare .-collar and butcher's cuffs add the final touch. CRIPPLED FIREMEN. HELPED Disabled City Employed Fensioned After Faithful Service. jj'ITTSBURG, Sept. 13. Three crippled firemen and a disabled policeman limp ing into Council chambers so touched the members of the committee on public safety 'that it is probable the pension plan for city employes will be radically altered. Chief Clerk Elias John, of the public safety department, stated that the cases pf the firemen 'will come before the retirement board next month and they would be given $1000, according to the provisions of the present pension system. Dr. S. S. Woodburn vigorously ob jected to the plan, saying that the prac tice in other cities, when men were totally disabled from service, was to consider them as having served their full time, and to retire them on a pen sion running for life. W. Y. English offered a motion that the three men be continued at their regular salary out of a- special fund to be set aside for this purpose until such a time as Council amends the pension requirements to take care of such cases. The motion was unanimously approved. The firemen, Edward Mulvlhill, Ar thur Thompson and James A. Gallagher, have been off duty for some time. They are crippled for life, and can never again take an active part in their line of duty. While the men are at their fire houses, their work consist chiefly of doing the "dog watch" and other light duties. The policeman, Samuel R.. Smith, suf fered a severely crushed foot and leg while trying to find his way out of a burning building In Penn avenue, after he had searched for the watchman. It was announced that he had been given office work to do pending the time when he can return to his beat. It is doubtful whether he will be able to walk a beat again. SI : -4 -V- 2 , T. ? f. .J ,- S',' '.if? tii Dainty Chafing - Dish Popular. A proa la f ' ;? I S V - WAIST LINE IS ELUSIVE STILL IN MOST MODISH COSTUMES OF SEASON Promise of Waspish Figure Indicated by Return to Ba que, but Straight Lines From Shoulder to Hips in Latest Models, Even for Reception aud Dancing Gowns, Are Noted. PARIS, Aug. 22. The sylph-like waist that poets used to praise has threatened to return to us for a year or two. And when the basque put in an appearance last Spring, the waspish waist was looked forward to a matter of course. 'But the waistline-is as difficult to find as ever. In fact, in many of the new models it is Impossible to find'the waistline, for there . is none. The basque has developed, or degenerated, into a shapeless garment that hanga from the shoulders to the hips in an almost straight line. The redingote, too, another dominant influence in the Autumn fashions, is made without a waistline by most of the dressmakers. Callot, to be sure, shows it with a drawn-in waist. But the Cheruit redingote shows a perfect ly straight line from shoulders to hem. So in the daytime, it seems, there is no waistline for the redingote and the basque show their influence on almost every suit and frock for daytime wear. In the evening the waist is perhaps a little more emphasized. A girdle that swathes the figure from the bust to the hips is sometimes used, and this really curves in at the waistline.- But very often there is no emphasis of the waist line in the evening, and one of the most successful evening models shows a sash about the hips, with -a loose, bagging bodice above it. The Last at the Hips The sash or belt at the hips is by far the most usual sort in the new models. It is well managed now. When Premet first revived the basque a sash at the hips that tied in a big bow at the back,. just about at the end of the corset, was a part of it. This bow was not liked. It was too suggestive of - the bustle, which Premet also tried out unsuccess fully, to meet with approval. Now there is no bow at the back of the basque. The bow, if there is one, has shifted to the front. Usually there is no bow at all, but the two ends of the sash are knotted loosely together. Sometimes instead of the sash, there is a flat, folded belt or girdle of satin about the hips. Wide hip belts of soft leather are also worn, and these usually fasten under a flat buckle of some sort. On a smart frock which I saw the other day there was a dull black kid belt about the hips, fastened at the left un der a square buckle covered with silk of Roman stripes. It'is an odd thing that with all these fashions that ignore and obliterate the waistline, and lengthen Ahe waist, the skirt of the coat suit is still mounted on an Inside" belt that forms the top of it just above the normal waistline. One of the fascinating little specialty shops here, that works especially to gain favor with Americans and now that European war is general that ir what all the dressmaking houses want shows an interesting new model for afternoon and evening wear. It is made up of a skirt of velvet or silk over which is worn a chiffon shirt, cut like a chemise. This little shirt hangs straight from the shoulders to the hips, where it is held in either at the back or the front. Dressing; the Neck Lines THE very newest collar that does not dip down in front, but is of equal height all around. It is fastened into a rounded neck line and is usually of organdy. On some satin frocks it is of gold or silver lace. This is a becoming collar, and for that reason it will be worn. It is dif ficult now to believe that women would accept unbecoming neckwear. They have accepted it in the past, but this experience with becoming and com fortable neckwear that we have all had may have taught us to rebel at stringing our necks at a word from fashion. The V-shaped neck is doubtless go ing out of fashion. ' It will remain in evidence in America for some time, per haps, because American women like it, and find it becoming. Therefore they are loth to give it up. But the. square and round neck saVe much newer and have been utilized by all the dressmakers here. Premet. it is true, showed evening, gowns with the bodices cut to points on the shoulders, and fastened there with a jewel. But manyof the new frocks are made with a square decolletage, partly outlined by the jeweled straps that hold it over the shoulders. The smart neck line in the new coats is a high one. The closing at the left side Is very srriart. The right side of the frock or coat is carried over the left, side, to fasten 'there in a straight line from the, shoulder to hip. Cheruit exploits this line and it is very good. This closing, of course, gives a high neck line, which is fin ished either with a- rolling or a flat turndown collar. The upstanding ruche of tulle is still worn, and on some of the new models it is fastened about the throat with a band of fur. . This fur band is at tached to the bodice in the back, but in the front the bodice is cut away, leaving a rounded or square opening, sometimes one that is V-shaped. Sometimes, too. a standing ..collar of chiffon, that fits snugly, to the neck 1 r .tiM&&&,'-- -mi XunIr. t White- Crrpe Chiffon Draped Ovn Foundation Skirt ot Vhlte, Lace EmbroMereA AVlth Silver Vhrrn.lK. The Belt la Handrd "With Black; Velvet Rlbbona. No. a Pink Satin Ilodlce With Jeweled Shoulder Straps and Full Lace Skirt. No. 3 White Tulle Tunic Over Pirated White !I 1'"7.PI!k,HT" ShOW 'ro' th- Tunle a.d a Lane Row Fa.t,n. " eh Tlea Around the lllpa. No. 4 Military Outfit Vihlch Promlaea to Be m Moat Popular Mode Thla Winter. No. 3 Model Shovvlna- Styllah and Graceful Walat Which Can Be Made From Any of the Modlah Crock Kabrica. but is not high, is fastened on a frock with the front cut away below it. On a frock worn by & smart woman a few days ago, there was a little or gandy collar, rolling and pointed in Gladstone shape, that was edged with three bands of soutache braid of very narrow width one bright green, one bright red and one bright yellow. There were tiny organdy collars trimmed in the same way with the braid and as it was the only color on a frock of taupe satin, the effect was very good. The striped velours waistcoats that one sees everywhere usually have an attached collar of velours, lined with satin or silk, and this collar is a turn over collar of Directorie cut that is very becoming with hair drawn away from the nape of the neck and the ears. Fresh Fish at Its Best MEAT is undoubtedly going higher in price. Even If it goes no high er, it has already gone high enough to make every housewife count 4ts cost. So the suggestion to use fish to take the place of irieat ought to fall on good ground. By far the largest number of house holds in the United States find fresh water fish closer at hand than salt Your skin is beincr rebuilt Your skin like the rest of your body, is continu ally being rebuilt. Every day, in washing, you rub off dead skin. As this tld skin dies, new forms. Thii is your opportunity make thin new skin just what you would love to have it by using" the following treatment reg ularly. How to keep your kin actiVe Wash your face with care said take plenty of time to do it. Lather freely with Woodbury's Facial Soap and rub in gently until the sVin is softened and the pores open. After this, rinse in waom, then in very cold water. Whenever possible, rub your skin for a few minutes with a lump f ice. , Woodbury's Facial Soap is the work of an authority on the skin and its needs. This treatment with Woodbury's cleanses the pores, then closes them and brings the blood t j the surface. Vou feel the difference the first time you use it a promise of that lovelier complexion which the steady use of Woodbury's always brings. Woodbury's Facial Soap costs 25c a cake. No one hesitates St the price after their first cake. Do this today Now! Tear tut thr illustration tf the cale beleiu and put it in yeur puree at a reminder te get iVtodbury'e. Tear tut the take ntiu. Take it tm yur druggist er toilet coun ter today. "Begin tonight to get the benefits of this facial soap. For sale by dealers everywhere. Woodburys racial oo Tkm Andrew Jtrttns Company Sprint Groom Avenue Cindnuati,0. water fish. There is a feeling amon those who know salt-water fish that it far exceeds Its fresh-water brothers in flavor and texture. This feeling ha3 been engendered by the fact that so often fish is not well cooked. Even an inch-thick blue fish can be ruined and made tasteless and dry by careless and over-long broiling. Always soak fresh tish in a quart ol water to which a teaspoonful of salt has been added or more salt and watei In proportion. Then rinse it well and dry it carefully with a clean cloth. The best way to cook fresh-water fish is to boil gently for 20 minutes enough water to cover the fish, t which have been added lemon juice. vinpirnr n r- n-itta -i .. . . i ; 1 onion, a sliced carrot or an onion stuck n-llh uhnlu nlAvac TV.-.. .. . v, ! soned water over the Tish and boil gently until tender. (Copyright. 1914 by the XTcClure News paper Syndicate.) Xot the Old John. . (Washington Star.) "This table-tipping Is being done by your late husband," said the amateur medium. "I don't believe it," answered the serious woman. "When John got to throwing the furniture around he never stopped with any such mild demon stration ps this." continually T mt -
