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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 20, 1914)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAy, PORTLAND. SEPTEMBER 20, 1914. Great Britain. . Luclua H. Bushnell. of 209 South Tenth street, left for Quebec Canada, to take his place with the oth ers in the Seventy-sooond Seaforth Regiment. Bushnell, who is only 23 years old, is truly & soldier of fortune, having served under no less than five flags. He was born in Orange, K..J., and after serving a short time in the Riverside' Military Academy he ran away to join the crew of St. Mary's cadet ship. Returning from the cruise with the cadt ship, he ran away to South Amer ica in 1907, later joining the rebel army in Honduras. Through, brilliant serv ice he was promoted to rank of cap tain in the cavalry. In 1909 he was captain in the Nlcaraguan army under General Zelaya. Two years later he joined the Seventy-second Seaforth Regiment, remaining with it a year. Two years ago he got together 200 men, whom he took to .China to assist the rebels. Returning after a short stay in the Orient, he took the same men to Mexico, where they made up part of the Twenty-ninth Regiment of rurales. When Madero was assassinated Bush nell took command of the artillery for the constitutionalists. He has been wounded several times, but he said that he wants more. HIGH GIRDLE AND COLLAR NEARLY BODICE JDF GOWN LATELY IMPORTED Silk and "Wool Mohair Utilized in Recent Chic Suit of Brown "With Flaring Tunic Swallow Tail Back Is Novelty of Tall Fashion. WOMEN WHO FIGURE IN NEWS EVENTS OF WORLD CAUGHT BY PRESS CAMERA ' 1 " " Princess Rospigliosi Wants Administrator of Estate Removed Dr. Dorothy V. Smyly Leaves for War Fran Bethmann-Hollweg, Wife of Diplomat, Who Called Treaty Scrap of Paper. c Mi v - rt m l f$ (lJ&ll W If M'l f i Hi?, , 4N u Ji r 6 C I I . - '.'- I I If I :. - -' 'Il ' " ; i '.- ! -7 f 5 ? " ' f II If M ' ? ' - '4 f if - ' ff i 1 ifk L :s ' I . - , ;j5ve if I THE height of tne girdle and the depth of the collar come near to comprising the entire bodice of a recently imported gown of black satin. To be sure, there was a tulle neck ruche, but otherwise the bodice con sisted only of the most transparent of openwork lace, slightly gathered with a band of satin at the elbow. A deep collar of the lace emerged from be neath a fold of black satin, at the neck nnd fell in straight lines to the. hips Incidentally the lace was white, giving a strong note of contrast to the gown Of black. r In the present generation a gown to le wearable must be stylish first and If it be also durable so much the better, but smart it must be before milady considers it as an addition to her ward robe. There are, however, materials which will combine both of these ex cellent qualities and chief among these is a mixture of silk and wool mohair which Bernard has utilized in making a suit of brown with flaring Russian tunic over a narrow foundation skirt The skirt of the coat also flares, but is held in snugly to the waistline by a broad tailored belt and buckles of self niaterial. - Novel among the suits- of the- Fall is the swallowtail back attached to a jacket which is otherwise of the length of a bolero. Pleated sometimes is this swallowtail and sometimes hanging etraight with a banding of fur across the bottom, and usually it is accom panied by a skirt entirely minus tunic or draping. One such suit recently seen was of forest green broadcloth I CAPES AND CAPE EFFECTS ASSUME FORMS THAT WILL SUIT ANY TASTE No One Mode More Assured of Popularity Than Others-Swallow-Tail Coat New to Feminine Wardrobe. SevereIf Belted Waistline Now Proper Mode in Walking Suits. IN the Spring Madame Fashion de clared herself in favor of a sudden and unexpected popularity of capes and' cape effects, and, being taken by surprise, confusion ensued among the ranks of her followers. There were those who found the cape a valuable addition to their wardrobes and forth with adopted it completely and pro ceeded to wear it upon all possible oc casions the cape wrap for chilly mornings over a shopping costume, the sports cape for golf and for wear after heating outdoor exercise, the elaborate cape for calling and evening wear, and even on frilly, fluffy blouses there were capes and capelets of satin and lace reaching just to the shoul ders. Those who adopted the cape, how ever, did not have the field entirely to themselves, there being many ad herents to the .various other styles which were demanding and receiving attention of a flattering nature. Chief among those which are in vogue ap pears the Redingote with its semi fitted waist and a long, almost to the ankle tunic. The . Redingote, in fact, is high in favor and gives promise of being qute the smartest type- of suit " '- " -fe4 " " I as,- i I L U 7 with bits of hand emDroidery scattered i over belt and collar, the skirt having which will be seen on Fifth avenue this Autumn and Winter. When worn by the tall girl or woman of stately carriage, a Redingote suit can be most impressive with just a touch of dignity which is less evident in suits and wraps of other lines. There is also the abbreviated court train, or rather what would be a court train if it continued to sufficient length, but being cut off either just below the shoulders or Just below the waist line, it gives the effect of a high collar. Usually one looks for this feature on a gown for afternoon or evening wear ratheivthan on a suit, though in some of the newer frocks which simulate a suit in general ap pearance, this abbreviated court-train appears to considerable advantage. Other styles thaja these there are almost too . numerous to be noted in detail, but in general line and cut, no one need feel anxiety that their partic ular type has been forgotten or over looked. If one looks around there will be found just, the style for them. An afternoon suit which can be de scribed as stunning'was recently seen at the afternoon tea hour at a fash ionable restaurant. . Of forest green broadcloth, the skirt built on long o Ka'fi CzA c ; Com- just a semblance of tightness at the knees. straight lines, caught in Just a trifle at the knees to accentuate the flare at the ankle; a semi-fitting jacket, in the front ' of a length only to the waistline, belted across the back to produce a slight fulness and from be neath the belt a swallow-tall skirt, pressed into deep pleats and falling In a point to the knees. Bits of hand embroidery of a shade harmonizing with the tone of the material adorned the high military collar and the nar row belt. A shopping tour, was the occasion on which was seen a suit of rather strik ing severity, made of a silk and wool mohair with high, close-fitting shoul der line, a wide, untrimmed belt, a flaring tunic attached to -the coat, and falling over a still more flaring tunic above a narrow foundation skirt. FORTUNE'S SOLDIER JOINS Philadelphia Boy, Veteran of Five Wars, Goes to Join .Sixth. PHILADELPHIA. Pa.. Sept. 13. Called to join his old regiment, which is among those to be sent to assist Odor of Cooking May Be Easily Eliminated. Handful of Cloves. With Hita of Oranice Peel, Scorched. Will Solve Problem la Apartment. COOKIXQ In the small apartment is apt to b attended by . various odors, which, however savory to a before-dinner hunger, are - not as pleasant several hours afterward, when their ghosts cling persistently to dra peries and upholsteries. Everybody knows the distressing smell which greets the nostrils when one steps into an entrance hall not sufficiently aired and 'eloquent of the culinary depart ment in the basement just below. No odor of cooking snould greet the fas tidious guest in a private home, or even In an apartment which claims to be of the exclusive class. A simple and agreeable deodoriser may be made of a handful of cloves, allowed to scorch with bits of orange peel upon a tin plate in the oven. This mixture imparts a fragrance not un- j .ike that of carnations, and scattered aaoui tne rooms, it will completely destroy the odor of -cooking veget ables or roasting meats. In' the coun try the wise housewife will gather much sweet clover, and the sprigs, dried out before packing in the trunks for the homeward journey, will impart a fresh and delicious fragrance to the house linens all next Winter. Laven der, that standby of old-time house keepers, may be purchased in little bags at trifling: cost, and makes a de lightful fragrance for the linen closet. In rooms where much smoking is done the windows should be kept open an inch at the top, as the cigar and cigarette smoke is drawn toward such an' opening and will pass out instead of lingering in hangings and draper ies. Always air a room heavy with tobacco smoke from both the top and bottom of the windows, and if possi ble keep in such' a room a few grow ing plants which seem to absorb and destroy the odor without any harm to themselves. A-refdrmer usually has big ideas. Frequently he insists on proceeding on a fholesale basis instead of run ning a small but cctiveabusiness regu- ating his own faults. Washington Star. Secret of Millinery Chic De signing Is Qut. Fewer Stltrkea and Uae of Pius, Such aa Any Woman Mle-ht Uae, Keaalti In Correct Finliih. A (MILLINER, recently conversing regarding the subject nearest her heart, with charming frank ness and sincerity betrayed what in her business is a great secret. "The fewer the stitches," she said, "the greater the chic of the chapeau!" The mark of the up-to-date milliner is to secure the correct finish together with the smart effect which can only be accomplished by a minimum of stitching. "All of my own hats," she continued, "are pinned, merely pinned. But imagine sending out a hat to a fashionable customer Which was "merely pinned!" Following, the hint of this milliner, how easily one could accomplish smart effects of headgear in one's own boudoir by a dozen or so pins and a fairly keen sense of what Is style. A white feather breast surrounding the crown and a dashing feather fancy standing upright in exactly the center front. Placed on the head with a slight dip to the sire, eclipsing the eyebrow per haps, and if one has chosen wisely to suit the contour of the face, the result is a hat of the smartest type. To be clever, one could easily substitute snap-fasteners for pins and with a variety of trimming make one hat shape do the service of several. Hat TrimuinK Adjusted Quickly. t In Vogue. i If ff If : mm - tfaSte : J n .wfrx k It "I 4 Z W- - It i i-I'""sl i! J - I . 1! i'- Utv" it r f - v J. ' W : ' il ' - - . i- rtvx. fife NEW TORK, Sept. 29. The Princess Rospigliosi', who was Laura Mc Donald Stallo, Is trying to have the Metropolitan Trust Company re moved as the administrator under the will of her grandfather. Alexander McDonald, whose millions she inherit ed. The McDonald estate is to be di vided between the Princess Rospig liosi ana her sister, the Princess Murat. The Princess says that the trust com pany is a creditor of the estate as well as the administrator and that it has made a profit of several million dollars by the sale of the securities of the estate. ' Dr. Dorothy V. Smyly has received word from the British government that she is wanted at the front, and she sailed recently on the Baltic. She was in the army medical corps for 13 years and' has served in three compaigns. In the Boer War she was under fire. She was with the troops that marched to the relief of Ladysmith. Her home is in Oxford, England. - Princess Mary, theonly daughter of the King and Queen of England, has be come a young laay. neretoiore sne has been only a young person, for she has worn her hair down her back and her skirts have been short. She has recently had made the first photo graph since she became a woman. She was 1 years old in April. Miss Helen Norton was recently mar ried to Roger Bayly, well-known Wash ington and Virginia horseman. The wedding was an elopement, and now Mr. Bayly seeks a petition in the Illi nois courts for appointment of a com missioner to make an inquiry into the mental condition of nls wire. airs. ayiy Tuesday Heet Soup Veal Lonf tireen Beans Scalloped Potatoes Lettuce Salad i Peach Cobler Coffee Wednesday Chilled Cantaloupe Rolled Brer, of Lamb, Mint Sauce Potatoes Spinach Stuffed Beet Salad Bice Mould with Cream Coffee Thursday Cream of Spinach Soup Curry of Lamb. Rice Chutney Vegetable Salad Berries and Cream Coffee F"riday Vegetarian Broth Baked Salmon. Cucumbers Potatoes t Sliced Tomato Salad Junket with Cookies Coffee Saturday Fruit Cocktail - Scotch Collops with Baked Tomatoes Potatoes Lettuce Salad Green Apple Pie Coffee Sunday Watermelon Cocktail Roast Veal, Brown Sauce Brown Potatoes Summer Squash GinKer Ale Salad ' Ice Cream Sponge Cake Coffee Monday Tomato Bouillon Casserole of Veal with Macaroni Strlna; Bean Salad Peachtisand Cream Coffee i r Menus of the Week . '&S?7-JjoZOL -S'A.eZo. . " 1 'Tv r - t , i I ( ' " " Iff M ' ' ? $ I -wi nAm-i)if,.ii -Wit-ii tr ri.tmi lima J v if i ' : I Wk ' ll fLC'X ti'P It v t ll -J U was held mentally deficient by a coun ty court and put .in custody of her legal guardian. Colonel George Fab yan. One of the many American actresses glad to get back home from the war zone was Ceciie Cunningham, the St. Louis girl who made such a hit in De Wolf Hopper's opera company for REGULATE YOUR Tou're bilious! "Tou have a throbbing sensation in your head, a bad taste in your mouth, your eyes hurt, your skin ia yellow with dark rings under your eyes, your lips are parched. - No wonder you feel ugly, mean and ill-tempered. Your system Is full of bile and constipated waste not properly passed off and what you need is a cleaning up "inside." Don't continue being a bilious, constipated nuisance to yourself and those who love CANDY IO CENT BOXES BOXES LSO 25 8e ALSO 25 8e HEADACHY BILIOUS 7 ,-t-;r l two seasons. Last Spring she gave up American engagements and sailed for England, believing the British capital offered far bettor opportunities than she could find here. Vheatricals are dead in London and Miss Cunningham was glad to see little old New York when her ship came up the bay. Frau Bethmann-Hollweg is the wife of Chancellor Bethmann-Hollweg. tjie man' through whom the Kaiser con ducted the negotiations with other countries and who called the treaty with Belgium "a scrap of paper." Mandamus To Reinstate Tupil. When a parent makes a reasonable selection from the course of studies which has been prescribed by the school authorities, and requests that his child may be excused from taking the same, it is held in the Nebraska case of State ex rel. Kelley vs. Ferguson, ".0 L. R. A. (N. S.) 26G. that the request should be granted. If the request be denied and the child is expelled or sus pended for a refusal to continue sueti study, mandamus will lie to compel re instatement. SOUR? 10 CENTS BOWLS! you, and don't- resort to harsh physics that irritate and injure. Remember, that your sour, disordered stomach, lazy liver, and clogged bowels can be quick ly cleaned and regulated by morning with gentle, thorough Cascarets: a lu cent box will keep your head clear and make you feel cheerful and bully for .months. Get Cascarets now wake up refreshed feel like doing a good day's work make yourself pleasant and use ful. Clean up! Cheer up! CATHARTIC -ANY 50 CEN' - ANY DRUG STORE 50 CENT BOXES STOMACH