GLIMPSES 1NT0 HEART pmrm&
V:RA CRtJZ. May 29. (Special
Correspondence.) Beyond. Vera
Crus, toward Mexico City, every
type of native is seen, from, a full
blood Aztec to a dashing- Spanish ca
kallero. There Is -music as plaintive
nd weird as any ever heard on a mid
way plaisance; people in costumes of
all. descriptions, and iom with either
Aemi-toilets or none at all.
The stage setting- is perfection, and.
though the atmosphere is not all that
Could ,be desired especially through
the tierra caliente. the hot lands to
fee traversed it would be a poor trav
eler Into the Interior who would al
low this to interfere with his enjoy
ment of the interesting types on every
aide.
Here one sees the true child of na
ture, who has never known the re
straint of clothes, shoes or stockings.
The author- of "Sartor Resartua" would
find no food for thought here, and
nothing on which to hang sis philoso
phy, for while the extremely decollete
dress of the grown-ups would make
the ball gown of one of our society
fcelles seem a Puritan costume by com
parison, the babies and children, pose
in the-aitogether.
Emerging from the hot country into
h. ntM.ia ,h ai... f.
tains, with the snow-tipped peak of
Orizaba in the distance, a cool breese
Is felt; refreshing mountain streams
rush like a swift "torrent, or peacefully
meander through the landscape, adding
beauty to the scene and furnishing a
laundry and bathing place for the In
dian family whose adobe or reed but
is on its banks.
The peon does not go to bed while
his clothes are being washed, but sim
ply takes an air bath while they are
drying on the bushes, and Joins his
family for a social hour.
If there are a few maguey plants
en .the banks of this stream, it is bliss
Indescribable for him, for he can ex- chambers being subdivided into tene
tract the pulque from these for his ments ot four or five rooms,
nightcap or morning, constitutional. These places are like little villages
and wars and rumors of wars do not all within themselves, sheltering shoe
rob him of a moment's rest. makers, . cabinetmakers, dressmakers,
It matters not if one be artist, so- weavers, carpenters and any other
oiolog-Ist, soldier of fortune, or simply workmen one may have need of. even
sv globe-trotter on pleasure bent, he to an evangelists, or nublio letter-
will find enough and to Bpare of every
arietv of climate, scenerv and neonlea
In traveling through this . country.
- . . .
So little have the centuries changed
It that if General Winfleldi Scott were
alive and could lead the way to Mex
ico City he would "enjoy some improve
ments, but find few changes,' and would
encounter the same mode of life that
he found when he marched through it
In 1S47 and that Cortes found when he
took the same route nearly 400 yeara
ago.
Now, as in the time of the Spanish
conquistador, cargadores are used to
K
Thousands of newspaper readers to whom the words "Atchison Globe"
appended to a newspaper paragraph mean a bit of unusual humor will
be Interested to learn that Edgar Watson Howe, for 33 years owner
of the Atchison (Kan.) Globe and author -of some of the most widely
quoted newspaper paragraphs in the United, States, is just 60 years old,
having been born in May, 1854.
. Four years ago, when his paper was making him f CO a day net. Mr.
HoWe turned it over to his son and quit. Nowadays he is living i a
country place which he calls Potato Hill, drinking buttermilk, listen
ing to the wolves howlinar and publishing "E. W. Howe's Monthly, De
voted to Indignation and Information." "The old dog," he says, "hav
ing been a long time out in the world, knows that little of interest is
goingon and spends much of his time sleeping in the sun."
Here are some of Mr. Howe's characteristic paragraphs printed in
the Atchison Globe. They are taken from "Country Town Sayings,"
.Crane & Co., Topeka, Kan.
v.
MART HORLKT wiU probably be
heard from next year In state
politics. Heretofore he baa been
hampered in his reform work, as ' he
was compelled to clean the lamps in
his wife's boarding-house, but natural
gas having reached town he will now
be prepared to give his entire time to
uplift work.
A mah'should be taller, older, heavier,
Vglier and hoarser than his wife.
If you are determined to ruin your
stomach why not dp it with gravy in
stead of whisky? v
So many things go wrong that we
are tired of becoming indignant.
The Misses Mary MacLennan and
Henrietta Alexander, popular Topeka
girls who are visiting in Atchison, will
be given.' A hunt breakfast tomorrow
morning by E. W. Howe at the Bunga
transfer luKgse. household effects the cool green paims and ferns, and -ofiva fito,, ? v-:-' 'rr J.f-- y - - ". I I 1 1 ' f
and take supplies over the mountains, on moonlit nlshts Is like fairyland. I 7hrdl'ffciJ- if ' SZf 1 " I- LiJ.IIf " "?
where It is difficult for even a. burro ... - . I ' 1 I I IllllWIIil""' . fJZ f ?'' - , V--." r f ! I , ..
Afami.yof-evenwUloocupyaroom TtJ 'HP TM TV'
On landing- ia Vera Cms the trav- les than eighteen feet square in one I f "V1 I 7KJ If 5 l?;,w iTf t'vV!V J i " " t4-
eler is quickly surrounded by these of these tenement-liousea. and the fath-
little lean-looking brown men and
women, too wildly gesticulating and
soliciting patronage. There may be a
transfer wagon near at hand, but the
cargadore is taken if for no other rea
son, than to eliminate one of the dozen
hanging at one's heels.
They carry on their backs anything
from a large-sised dress trunk to the
entire furnishings of a small Amerl-
can apartment, their load frequently so
enveloping them that as they run
along, winding in and out among the
traffio of a crowded street, all that Is
visible is a pair o thin muscular legs
and) feet seemingly pinned to the bot
torn of a trunk or box.
These cargadores, messengers and
aguadores in Mexico have dynamics
down to such. fine point that they
could wind In and out of a crowd at
Broadway and Thirty-fourth street In
a way that would make a New Tork
policeman's hair stand on end. And
an aguadore, or water-carrier, can go
through a crowded thoroughfare with
XTZ . .1 v 1 7. Z
tmti to the brim an attached to eith-
er end of a yoke ar;d another large
jugful on his head and never spill a
drop.
Moving day in Mexico Is filled with
interest to the tourist, and particularly
so if the event takes place, in one of
the vlvlendas. or tenement-houses. In
stead of a moving-van or a handcart,
the cargadore is employed, and will
trot up nd down three or four flights
of stairs with the greatest ease.
The apartment or tenement houses
were frequently palaces or hospitals
in the time of Spanish rule, and are
now regular human beehives, the great
writer, all plying their trades in this
build In ar and usina- th larsra natla
a social center for man and beast
It is hero the occupants assemble
to hear the, news or gossip bit about-
a new arrival. Every one takes a pride
in the flowers in the patio, and every
available spaoe is used in which to set
tin cans, pots or any receptacle in
which flowering plants will grow. And
they do grow luxuriantly and help to
hide the squalor of the surroundings.
In the richer parts of the town this
courtyard will be so gay with flowers
that it will look like a painted Jezebel
flaunting her splendor in the face of
V
novs
low. (Note. The breakfast will con
sist of the usual bacon, and egga. toast
and feoffee, and the neighbors' hounds
usually hunt foxes around the Bunga
low anyway, which will be the hunt;
but it is customary to exaggerate so
cial affairs.)
When a rabbit becomes angry and
there are no boys or dogs around how
fiercely he raves and snorts I
Some widowers may be giddy, but
not all of them. Goat Edwards has
been a widower three years and is not
taking notice any more than ha did
the third month after the fonerai. "I
am not saying anything against any
body," he said today, ''but I am satis
fied as I am."
Poor and rich people have very
funny notions of each other. j
. A young -Atchison girl who will be
THE SUNDAY
er of the family will carry on his trade
there. So there Is little space left for
entertaining company; hence the patio
is also the courting parlor for those
given to the tender passion for to
"play the bear," which is courting in
Mexico, is ' only indulged in by the
more fortunate middle class. -
Toung Mexican women of the better
class are not allowed to go In the
streets unattended, nor to receive visits
fr0m mon except in the presence . of
the famny; consequently surreptitious
iovemaking is indulged in through the
,ron KT.tlaKS f a window, and this
is called "playing the bear."
But with the maiden of the tenement
the grated window is often lacking, so
other means must be resorted to. As
love, knows neither age nor condition,
if the enamored one has not had the
opportunity to take advantage of the
rule of three, he or she seeks the
public letter writer, who will put the
love message on paper.
He Is comfortably ensconced in a
secluded corner of one of these patios,
or in some quret corner of the market.
It is delightful to watch this custo
dian of love secrets from a distance,
for he seems to put as much interest
and. expression into one of these billets-doux
as though it were his own
affair; and .though the secret is safe
with him, it is always wise to-look
about for eavesdroppers and teasing
youngsters before confiding to him
the name . and address of the adored
one.
The public newspaper reader ia
equally interesting, and more excit
ing. With the exception of the Far
East, these two conveniences are no
longer found. The publio reader has
all the shrewdness and cunning of his
mixed Indian and Spanish blood and is
usually a debonair, showily dressed
chap who knows where most of the
crowd is likely to assemble, and when
there is a sufficient audience he takes
his paper and, comfortably seating
himself, begins to read,
First the latest news about
bull-
nt- u"ie " war. ana men
some interesting local items. After this
comes an exciting human-interest
tory, the reading of which, he accom-
panies with suitable action, and when
he gets to the most exciting place in
the narrative he will ston and pass
bis hat. If the amount received is
what he thinks It should be, he will
proceed.
But if it falls short of bis expecta-
tion he quietly folds his paper, pockets
the money and saunters away, leaving
a curious, gaping crowd behind, with
an9 AMtsd
Mt
come a teacher said today; "I am not
becoming a teacher to do good, but for
the pleasure of whipping the boys!"
A woman never gets so old she is
not interested in how many dresses a
bride gets.
It seems to be natural to men to ad
vocate big reforms. But It never was
natural with us. The only real reform
we ever advocated with spirit is letting
the schools out two hours on the morn
ing of a circus parade.
Somehow everyone bates to see an
unusually pretty girl get married. It
is like taking a bite out of a very fine
looking peach.
In the days of long ago the Indian
walked ahead and his squaw followed
him, dragging a tent pole. When they
approached a settlement he didn't take
the pole from her; she continued to
drag it until their destination was
reached.- Nowadays when a woman
carries a heavy burden her husband is
apt to step back and relieve her when
they reach a place where people may
see them. This is civilization. '
If the women had money how well
they could get along without the men!
There is nothing so well known 4
that we should not expect something
for nothing, but we all do and call it
hope.
About aprons: The average woman
wears out six aprons a year. As eoon
as the aprons are worn out they are
OltEGONTAN, PORTLAND,
the assured feeling that if there are
any more - centavoa they will follow
him to hear the climax.
In the markets of -Mexico it is not
difficult to get in on the ground floor
on everything but the price of the
article- desired.. But here the Amer
ican will find an adversary worthy bis
steel,, and the Aztec will take plenty
of time, too, to make the bargain, for
he la not in a hurry to get home as
he carries his home with him to the
market.
There for the time being is his social
life, as well as business, for when he
leaves home in the morning he takes
aU ot hl8 household with him. including
babes in arms, children, ' dogs, cats,
donkeys, all go and make a day of It.
The charcoal brazier is taken along,
and the family meal is c oked right
there, making with, his neighbors one
large dinner party, the menu consist-
Jngr of one or two ot theTOO varieties
of peppers, frljolea or 'black beans, to
which if he. hall from the State of
Tabasco, he will give additional piquan
cy by a dash of that famous sauce.
Then, if he is fortunate enough, he
will wash all this down with a measure
of pulque say two days old. and will
feel that he has dined like the prover
bial lord, and Epicurus has nothing on
him.
These markets are practically the
same today that they were in the time
when that quaint 16th century writer,
Bernal Diaz." described them. Then.as
now low piazzas of solid stone inclosed
the market square, and were occupied
by small shops and ground-floor stalls;
the central part or courtyard is open
to the sky, and it is there takes place
the sale of burros, sheep and other
animals on foot.
1 This delightful historian says: "The
om m
used for rags and new ones made. A
woman has two or three aprons in the
wash every week. It is a saying among
women that a woman who does not
wear aprons is a slouch. When a wo
man's six aprons are about worn out
and she is preparing to make new ones,
be says she "is all in rags?' There
are dozens of different kinds of aprons;
some of them require six yards of
gingham in the making and some only
two. Gingham for an apron costs from
20 to 40 cents.
So far as is known, no widow ever
eloped.
We have always bad morbid curi
osity to taste a cake baked by a school
teacher. The more worthless a man the more
fish he can catoh.
A really busy person never knows
how much he weighs.
Much of the clamoring now going on
has a tendency to make industry and
. honest achievements almost disrep
utable. When a woman is on her last legs
she starts a boaring'houe; a man
starts fiye Insurance agency.
People are never eld, according to
their talk; they are only "getting old."
Every day thousands of people ex.
claim: " "I can't stand it!" But they do.
Horses do not seem to appreciate
JUNE 7, 1914.
meat markets were stocked with fowl,
game and dogs." He adds: "Vege
tables, fruits, articles of food ready
dressed, salt, bread, honey and sweet
pastry are sold, and many gewgaws
for the adornment of the savage per
son." The wares are norea'd out on white
cloths on the cobblestones of the mar
ket, and there will be found peppers,
tomatoes, beans or, to be more ac-
curate, there will be a sea of beans
of all kinds. Black beans, white beans,
.brown beans and yellow beans; all
with a different' flavor.
The man from Boston may think he
knows something about beans, but if
he should go to one of these markets
his knowledge would pale into insig
nificance and the' Boston bean-pot
would look like a tidbit.
We who buy' a bushel, peck, half or
quarter peck measure at a time gaze
in wonder at the small patchwork of
vegetables displayed; a pint cup of
potatoes or onions, two or three to
matoes, a teacup of peppers and other
like vegetables, all laid out in little
.heaps ready for the customer.
But the explanation is quite feasible.
No one tiny measure would make a
meal for an average man, but all com
bined in a wonderful Mexican stew,
with a mere sliver of meat thrown in
for flavoring, forms a repast to suit
the taste of the most fastidious.
Another stall In the market and a
large one, too is devoted to the sale
of tortillas, the national corn flapjack
of Mexico. These, with beans, consti
tute a rarge part of the diet of the
Mexican of the poorer classes, but are
Indulged In by all. . And when crisp
and hot are dellciously appetising.
a
They are the staff of life of the Mex
ican soldier, who has an advantage
Paraer
good treatment any better than men.
The horse that ia well taken care of
and has a groom of his own seldom
trots as well as a livery horse that Is
pounded over the roads by whoever
sees fit to hire him. We 'can take a
fairly good livery horse from any of
the stables and pass any horse Tn town
that has pads on his legs. And what
'is more, a livery buggy never rattles
as a family buggy does.
Sometimes I think that I have noth
ing to be thankful for, but when I re
flect that I am not a woman I am con
tent. Anyone who is compelled tif kiss
a man and pretend to like it is entitled
to sympathy.
Tou hear many strange things tqld
of life. Many of them are exaggerated,
many of them are untrue. There isn't
a great deal In life that is really
strange. It's the same old story, and
only wonderful to the young.
. If you knew how cowardly your
enemy Is you would slap him. Bravery
is knowledge of cowardice in the
enemy.
A woman looks prettier putting a
baby to sleep than she does on a, pub
lic platform. '
About the wisest-looking thing In
the world Is a country boy "who has
been boarding in town two or three
months studying law.
What people say behind your back
over other soldiers in that he is priv
ileged to dine with his family every
day while following the fortunes of
war, for bis women and children ac
company the army, carrying the cook
ing paraphernalia, and help him to for
age. While he is on the firing line his
wife will take the corn from the lime
water where it has . been soaking,
grind it on a stone and, mixing it with
water, have it ready in a jiffy to bake,
on the hot stones. ' .
At Orizaba the flower and fruit mar
kets are things of beauty, with a pic
turesqueness of arrangement and color
that would make the futurist and cub
ist painters green with envy. Such a
riot of color could only be seen in a
tropical country. Masses of flaming
passion flowers, luxuriant oleanders,
roses, exquisitely delicate bay blos
someand magnolias great bunches of
them for a mere song and the vender
croons the song while one waits.
Everywhere the train stops in going
through this stretch of country large
bouquets, as big as a half bushel bas
ket, of camelias are thrust into the car
windows, and S or 10 cents is the. price
asked. Camelias, such as are, bought
here for SO cents a blossom, are put In
a corsage bouquet of violets.
But of all the Mexican antiquities
and ancient customs, there is none that
can surpass a publio laundry such as
seen in Mexico City, and In use today.
At just what period the oldest one was
built ia not positively known. As the""
memory of man runneth not to the con
trary, a voluble guide will say in the
14th century; so one must believe him
and leave the rest to the archeologlst.
...
The large room with vaulted ceiling
is more like a baronial hall than a
place for washing soiled linens. The
ie your standing in the community in
which you live.
An Abohison man recently lost a lot
of money In business; then his horse
died, a"d his best employes quit. One
evening he sat at home gazing into the
fire and did not say a word. He was
trying to figuro a way out, of his
troubles. Then hie wife said to him:
"What woman aro you sighing for
now?" Whenever a man sits still and
rows of laundry tubs have the appear
ance of a miniature Chinese wall, so
solidly are they constructed, and from
the water side of the pool or lagoon
around which they are b iilt they have
the appearance of a Roman causeway.
The water is conveyed Into them by
means of a pan or earthen water jus
in the hands of the laundress; and
though this would seem an endless
task to one accustomed to modern con
veniences, the Indiun woman and all
of her ancestors were used to this
method and she knows no other way.
These tubs have withstood yie wear
of centuries, and if Mrs. Montezuma
could return she would find them Just
as she left them several hundred years
ago. Even the laundresses could speak
to her in the pure Aztec tongue and
their faces would have the hall mark of
the genuine article. The same intelli
gence, astuteness and passive dignity
which years of subjugation have not
been able to erase are visitble on these
faces. They are questioning and sus
picious, but they show an inexhaust
ible patience.
There are steam laundries in Mexico,
run by American men and patronized
by American people, too, for their
charges for an average size wash does
not appeal to the frugal Mexican, and
excites some surprise in 'their own
countrymen.
"Sixteen dollars Mei," which is about
)S American money, fur a dozen pieces
none of which are elaborate, seems
very high; but after a visit to one of
the antique laundries one is more
reconciled to the "sixteen." For the
big flat stones slanted in the tubs and
used as washing boards are not the
best things in the laundry line for
dainty lingerie.
And if one of these fine garments is
poked into the drain pipe as a stopper
and it is likely to be there is not
much left of it.
I if Vi ) . 7
looks depressed, his wife thinks of
some woman.
Watch the flies on cold mornings:
that is the way you will feel and act
when you are old.
Overheard at the Wharf.
(Washington Star.) x
"Whah is dis new river an' what
boats run on it?"
river were put dar Jes7' foh 'scovery
"Iar sin' no boats runnin' on it. Dat
purposes."
9