r
MOV
One, Also Holds
to Wear Male
BY ROBERT FRANKLW.
AEIS, March 11. (Special
Epondence.) When, a few weekn
asro, Sarah Bernhardt the Divine
Sarali secured the coveted red ribbon
of the "Legion d'Honneur," she joined
m, by no means small company of
JTrench women of conspicuous work In
many walks of life who already have
received the decoration.
Although the fact is realized by
comparatively few, more ' than 100 of
Madame Bernhardt's fellow country
women have been so honored. Some
of these women, of course, are known
all over the world for their achieve
ments bnt the vast majority are of no
Importance, especially when compared
with the great actress who waited bo
many years for the honor she so richly
deserved.
Of the more famous women mem
bers of the great French order one of
the most widely known is Madame Jane
XJieulafoy, who was made a member
aome 20 years ago. She enjoys the
distinction of being1 the only woman
In France who is entitled to wear mas
culine costume. She was born in 1852
and was educated in a convent until
Ehe reached her 18th year.
According to the custom in those
days, she left the convent to get mar
pied. Three months later the great
war of 1870 broke out and her husband
volunteered for service In the field,
Madame Dieulafov made up her mond
not to be separated from her husband
and asked permission to accompany
hlm to the front.
Although this was an unprecedented
request it was granted by the French
War Office, which also gave her per-
mtanfnn tn rlnn n dnlHlr'a uniform
The young 18-year-old heroine accom,
panied her husband during the whole
of the campaign and underwent the
same hardships and privations as the
Wedding Gowns Without Trains, Pink-Tinted Satin
Instead of Ivory, Veils That Do Not Veil, Sticks
Instead of Bouquets, and White Wigs for Brides
maids These Are Some of the Innovations of
the Coming Bridal Season.
BY CORINNE LOWE.
I HE fabled Ivory tint has disap
peared from the wedding
gown," declared the salesman.
confronting the little bride-to-be just
up from the country. "You see, that
yellow tinge was extremely unbecom
ing to most people, and so nowadays we
are selling silks with the very faintest
pink reflected in the white of the
gown."
This Is only one of the many changes
which the last few years have wrought
in the bridal outfit. Veils, shoes, qual
ity of silk and bridesmaids' gowns have
Indeed undergone many vicissitudes of
fashion. Of this we receive positive in
formation from the Spring wedding pa
freant which was featured at one of our
big department stores a week or so ago.
First of all, there is quality of the
wedding silk. No longer is it the heavy
satin which used to gleam in heavy
folds beneath the misty white veil. The
passion for soft supple crepes has ln
vaded the bridal territory, and now we
find hardly anything save crepe meteor
or heavy crepe de chine. Even chiffon
combined with lace is separating us
from the old tradition of heavy satins.
To this there Is one exception. Liberty
satin shows a decidedly upward bend,
and some of the most beautiful wedding
gowns for the early Spring have been
fashioned of this shimmering fabric.
The Coronet Veil.
One other point of variation is the
velL Formerly most brides walked up
the aisle of the church under a shower
of tulle. Now the veil Is seldom worn
over the face, but Is caught up at the
forehead in light folds, with the effect
of a coronet. For the rest this ex
quisite garment is very long, and its
ends, projecting beyond the hem of the
grown, are often caught with a spray
of orange blossoms. Around the face
the veil falls very softly and grace
fully from Its coronet peaks. Back
ward lt flows without an interruption,
unless, as is sometimes the case, lt is
caught in a circle, outlining the head.
Conservatism is ot course the guide
chart of the wedding gown. Although
follow it must the general direction of
the season's mode, there should be pro
hibited pH tba lantastie touches whicb
Legal Right
Attire.
1 aafrg
other soldiers. She had, however, over
taxed her strength, and was seriously
111 for several months after the con
clusion of peace.
After having fought by her husband's
side it was only natural that . she
should share his labors. Possessing
the same taste for literature and travel,
their 44 years of married life have
been, as Madame Dieulafov said the
other day, "Just like a long and happy
holiday."
"It was in 1881," said the Indefatiga
ble old lady to the writer, "that my
husband and I went on our first offi
cial trip to Persia, where we covered
over 4000 miles on horseback. Some-
times we remained nearly a fortnight
in our saddles, only resting for a few
hours every other day.
"We slept on the ground and occa-
sionally went two days without drink-
inET. We were lucky enough to make
some interesting finds at' Suse, Just
when we were going to give up in
despair. After a month's work with
200 Arabs without anv result WA wnrA
about to abandon the camp when one of
the men who was sweeping a trench
laid bare the nose of a marble horse,
We set to work with renewed vigor
sway the less ceremonial creation. Dig
nity and simplicity must be won from a
skirmish with aggressive ''style."
The Train Disappears.
Most important of all the changes at
work in the present-day wedding gown
is the absence of the train. Very many
of the new bridal creations particu
larly for the young bride are quite
short. For instance, one imported model
of white chiffon is completed with a
flounce of deep lace just escaping the
ground. For the rest a cutaway tunic
with long sleeves Is embroidered In an
all-over floral pattern of white silk.
The veil worn with this gown is the
circular one so fashionable nowadays.
Itis of tulle edged with fine lace and
is gathered about the head Into a per
fect cap from which the lace hem es
capes to form a bewitching frill about
the face.
In spite of this tendency toward the
wedding gown without a train there
have been some very beautiful gowns,
achieved with the aid of the Watteau
back, that train which falls from the
shoulders. In the case of a tall and
stately bride there Is, indeed, no ar
rangement of drapery which gives more
of ceremonial dignity.
The shoes which are worn by the
bride of this Spring will not be alight
with the elaborate beads and ornament
ation of former years. Plain in cut
the very loveliest of the season's wed
ding slippers are set off with a tiny
bow or butterfly of lace. The stock
ings to be worn with these very often
have a panel of white lace in the front
Sometimes, too, they show on ankles
and instep the fine webllke surface of
very loosely woven silk.
Even the fan which the bride of to
day carries has fluttered its way far
from that of other days. No longer
regular In shape, this favored acces
sory of the moment is shield-shaped
and generally inset with Insertion of
gossamer lace work.
A XfW Bridal Landscape.
Not only the bride, but her attend
ants, record a complete change In the
wedding landscape. This is emphat
lsaJJX a Zfiat Ot taffeta bridesmaids,
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTIiAND, MARCH 2J, 1914.
MTiEWI WON" DttlilJWT I felMlrS
i - '' ( - , T ':'--:' V J W article is specially addressed to her W
rHrr-4'rX:'-?f JW "shed two interesting books about Prt readers, who call themselves her MV ftjS
S ' - , SjT J7OL Spain and is now engaged on a his- "cousines," and contains helpful advice . fcVV l WW .1
V" I .... , . , , . . tfinfirn.llv call Ad. Is nver a rfillllnn a 1 W Hi. il
and soon unearthed the famous bas
reliefs which are to be seen in the
Louvre. We took a short rest after
bringing our discoveries ' back to
France. We returned to our work three
mon"s later with a subvention of 10,
000 from the French government and
a marine crane of exceptional power.
Six months afterward we were back
at Marseilles with the well-known
'Persian archers' and other finds of
ereat a1"6- When we landed we had
just 5 left between us. After we re
turned to Paris we spent several hours
a day for two years at the Louvre,
arranging our finds and superintend
ing their classification. Several more
years were spent In writing up our
travels and discoveries. These fill two
enormous volumes of a thousand pages.
Shall we go back to Persia again? I
hardly think so. Other explorers, bet
ter equipped than we were, have fol
lowed in our paths, and I don't think
they have overlooked much. Besides,
we are rather too old to go so far
afield. There is a great deal to be done
in Spain and Portugal and that is
where we propose to go next. There
S?" "
of Peru."
Madame Dieulafoy has already pub-
and this material is carried out in the
loveliest flower-like tones of gray, vio
let rose and yellow. The favored
method of making the bridesmaid's
gown is with a pannier-like overskirt'
a mode well brought out in the model
wedding party mentioned as having
taken place at a certain department
store.
"Very often, too, the skirt is draped
upward In the back to obtain the mock
bustle effect of the hour, and a smart
little tunic flares piquantly at the hips.
Flounces are also a favtfrite resource
of the bridesmaid's taffeta frock, and
some of them recall the calyx-shaped
skirts of the crinoline period.
The bodice of this frock is, like, the
bride's, often square of neck. Some
times, however, folds of lace go
straight across from shoulder to shoul
der In the way that recalls again Em
press Eugenie and the days of the
Second Empire. For afternoon wed
dings there are some bolero effects
sought in the taffeta gown of the
bride's attendants, and this, according
to the latest dictates of the mode, is
cut low in the back and flares out
above the shoulders.
. Xcuiz exquisite ore earns tt the bow.
t h v il d
. r i - si-
lished two interesting books about
Spain and is now engaged on a his
torical work dealing with Isabella, the
Catholic.
Madame Adolphe Btisson (nee Yvonne
Sarcey) is the youngest woman in
France who has been made a member
of the legion.
She is a daughter of the popular
Sarcey who was the foremost literary
and dramatic critic of the last genera
tion. She Inherited her father's talent
and has been a prolific journalist for
the last 20 years. She was fortunate
enough, at the age of IS, to meet a
very promising young writer a few
years older than herself. This was
Adolphe Brisson, now dramatic critic
of the Temps, a paper which wields
as much influence as did the "Edin
burgh Review in Macaulay's time.
Both husband and wife are indefatig
able workers and conceived the Idea,
some 15 years ago of starting a liter
ary and political review for family
reading. The majority of French re
views cannot be placed in the hands of
young people and Madame Brisson had
noticed, from her own experience, that
a literary publication which could be
placed in the hands of cultured girls
was badly needed.
With a modest supply of capital, sup
plemented by untiring energy, they
founded the popular "Annales poll
tiquee et litteraires" which is now one
of the most widely read weeklies in
France, and has subscribers In every
part of the world. The most eminent
writers, politicians, scientists and art
ists contribute to It, and it has an en
ormous influence among the present
generation of Frenchwomen
- . rvianamp. AninnA miRann i n aa v Trnnrift - - - - i i 11 i. nil
Madame Adolphe Brisson is manag
hats to be worn by the bridesmaids of
this coming season. Some of them are
flat little untrimmed shapes of colored
straw flaring up In the back and fas
tening nnder the high knot with a
band of flowers the only trimming
that Is allowed. One such hat in lav
ender with encircling band of solid
violets converts one immediately . to
this rather wayward mode of orna
mentation. Still other shapes and
these take one back to the shepherd
ess days of Marie Antoinette at Trl
anonaia yen flat leghorns, sloping
-ML
ing editor of the paper and contributes
a long article every week under the
signature of "Cousine Yvonne." This
article is specially addressed to her
plrl readers, who call themselves her
"cousines," and contains helpful advice
on all sorts of subjects. As the-clrcu-lation
of "Les Annates," as the paper is
generally called. Is over a million a
week, it may be safely asserted that
two or three million French girls wait
impatiently every week for "Cousine
Yvonne's" article. In addition to this
she personally conducts the "Answers
to Correspondence" column. In which
ehe shows herself to be a guide, phil
osopher and friend of almost encyclo
paedic knowledge.
All this hard work has not had the
effect of "writing any wrinkles on her
azure brow." She has two married
daughters, and Is the most surprising
ly young-looking grandmother of 40
that it is possible to meet. "I might
truly say I was 39 for a few days long
er," she said the other day, "but Is it
worth while?"
Madame Brisson lives in a pictur
esque old house within a stone's throw
of her office. These old French houses
have the advantage of containing
rooms big enough to hold a modern
Parisian flat. Her drawing-room con
tains a number of paintings by modern
French masters; among others there is
a very fine family group by Marcel
Basohet, who Is now a member of the
"Instltut," representing three genera
tions of the Sarceys, and a portrait of
Madame Brisson's eldest son by Henner.
Besides her paper she has founded
another work of immense educational
value the "Universite des Annates."
Twice a week In the great hall of the
"Ann ales" building, the most famous
lecturers In France continue the edu
cation of the French girl, who owes a
.i&y&lS 'ici'j$
down the front and rising a little in
the back. Flowers dainty nosegays
of forget-me-nots, perhaps are heaped
under the hat and fill in the space
'where the brim flares upward In the
back. At times, too, the flowers are
even reactionary enough to appear on
the top of the hat
Sticks Instead of Bouqnets.
The old-fashioned bouquets carried
by the bridesmaids have now been al
most entirely supplanted by sticks
with either flat or crook tops. These
sticks, enameled In white and tied at
the top with their bouquet of violets
"or daffodils, are another wand waft
ing us back to the days of the Wat
teau shepherdess. In a number of
smart weddings now being arranged
baskets containing flowers will sur
mount the sticks.
The white wigs now becoming so
fashionable will undoubtedly add a
charming touch of the patch and
powder days to the Spring wedding.
One girl is planning to have her eight
bridesmaids appear in these legacies
of a former day, and what with snowy
wjsa. iatteta Xxoclu letti caupjc litUa
great debt of gratitude to
Yvonne."
A third eminent woman holding the
red ribbon is Madame Vallet-Blsson, a
pastellist, whose works are almost as
well known in the United States and
England as they are In France. As a
child she showed a decided taste for
drawing, and she persuaded her parents
to send her to the famous "Ecole
Julien" as soon as she left school. There
she worked for four or five years under
Jules Lefevre, who advised her to con
centrate on pastel work.
She scored her first success about
25 years ago when she took a silver
medal at the "Salon des Artistes Fran-
cais" with the portrait of Mdlle Ros-
tande. She has exhibited regularly at
the same salon ever since, and has
taken all the possible rewards from
honorable mention to gold medals. For
the past five years Madame Vallet-
Bisson has been "hors concours." For
the coming salon, which will open in
May, Madame Bisson Is showing two
portraits, one of Madame Mercadier and
her little son Andre, and the other of
Baroness Chamorln.
Several of Madam Bisson's works
have been purchased by the state, and
figure in the national museums at
panniers, white shepherdess crooks and
bodices with the square Marie An
toinette neck this wedding will un
doubtedly summon our fancy back over
the centuries to the time when Mis
tress Betty walked in the place of Miss
Gwendolen.
A very charming idea which is be
ing carried out by several prospective
brides Is to have the gowns of the
wedding develop" the various tones of
one particular ehade. For Instance,
here in one wedding pink is the law
of the occasion. Instead, however, of
obliging all the attendants to wear the
same shade, this bride has arranged
that the entire wedding party show a
skillful gradation of color. Commenc
ing with the bride, whose silk gown
has the slightest hint of rose, the maid
of honor will follow in taffeta of most
delicate shell pink and the remaining
seven attendants will appear in grad
ually deepening tints.
Sand the Best Cure for Tired
Feeling.
SN English physician has an
nounced a most effective cure for
that tired feeling that attacks
everyone at some time or other. Walk
barefoot in the sand, up and down,
back and forth. Keep on walking, too,
until you feel an undeniable rush or
circulation of blood which will be sure
to follow this unwonted exercise. It
is that same quickened circulation that
is so tremendously invigorating and
It is accounted for by
stimulating.
the fact that the nerves of the sole
and the heel are irritated and the cir
culation accordingly stimulated. This
eame exercise ia aisa tool Xos uxwa
Brest and Orleans. In England her pas
tels occupy a prominent place in the
galleries of the Cunards and the Roths
child?. Madame Bisson and her husband, who
is also a well-known painter and
Chevalier of the Legion of Honor, work
together in a large sunny studio over
looking the "Pare Monceau." They
"Cousine were putting th'e finishing touches to
their exhibits for the approaching sa
lon when the writer called.
..Yes r thnk lt ,s tnfl best thlng x
have ever done," said Madame Bisson,
looking affectionately at her portrait
ot Madame Mercadier and hex little boy.
and my husband .thinks so too." The
portrait represents the most fascinating
Parlsienne imaginable and a handsome
little fair-haired boy. Both are dressed
for going out, but the background ia.
indoor.
Questioned as to the relative merits
of oil and pastel work, Madame Bisson
said tnat she considered It possible to
Bet much softer tones with pastels, and
consequently to get nearer to nature,
"l think it is Impossible," she said, "to
reproduce the rich, soft tones of the hu-
man face bT means of oils. There la
always a certain hardness about oil
Paintings which it is Impossible to
avoid a certain gloss or shine If you
ses what 1 mean- B"t w'th pastels it
is different. There is a peculiar vel-
vetiness about them which exactly iml-
tates the skin's delicate tints."
Certainly this theory Is amply justi-
fied In Madame Bisson's latest portrait.
but there are not many artists who can
handle pastels with her consummate
skill.
nia, as the wide expanse of yellow sand
is good to exercise a sleepy effect on a
tired and nervous brain.
Father Spanks Child
Prays for Him.
Who
THEY spank babies for saying their
prayers nowadays. This time lt Is
father who objects, and the rea
son is that the prayer doesn't flatter
him. Baby Alice, sternly supervised
by her grandma and her mamma, whis
pers this little petition every night:
"Pray God bless grandmother and
spare her to me, pray God bless mother
and spare her to rne, and pray God
make my daddy a better man.
Arthur W. Barber, of New York, the
father of little Alice, objects hotly to
the baby saying this prayer every
night He think3 lt isn't the sort of
set speech that a child should learn in
infancy, reflecting as it does on his
moral character. And so he spanks
Alice and she goes right on sobbing
through 'it
Not Pleased.
(National Monthly.)
Jones met his neighbor Smith, 'who
carried a gun In his hand,
"Been shooting this morning?' asksd
Jones.
"Yes, I had to kill my dog," answered
Smith.
"Why, was he mad?" asked Jones.
"Well," said Smith dryly, "he didn't
seem to be any too well pleased."
An Easier One.
(London Sketch.)
Timekeeper (arranging starts for
golf tournament) Name, please.
Holier Jkl. de valmont.
i Timekeeper Tuts, mon; we canna
bother ourselves wi' names like that
here.
Ye' 11 start at 9:30 the morn's
laorain' ta t&e name c' McPheroa. ,