THE SUNDAY OREGOXTAX. PORTLAND, MARCH ' 15, 1914. tional flags and. crossing over the NEW BONNET FOR THREE-YEAR OLD RESEMBLES FRESHLY OPENED ROSE Pale Pink Crepe de Chine, With White Tulle Pintuckeci by' Hand Gives Desired Effect Headgear for 7-Tear-Old Is Like Picture Hat Smart Hat for Dark-Eyed Child Suggested. frontier, penetrated into French terrl tory for a distance of over a mile. As ASH1QN S LAST WORD in they marched they sang German pa triotic songs, including "Deutschland uber Alles.' and their drunken revelry Style,Comfort as EcoNOMyi so alarmed the wife of a forester that she barricaded the doors and windows of her house, fearing an attack. For half an hour the demonstration continued, the flags being planted in 1 the ground, until the revellers caught sight of the uniforms of a couple of French customs officers, when they thought it prudent to retire, and re crossed the frontier. w mm . ALE pink crepe de chine with white tulle pintucked by hand is a com bination which makes a pretty bonnet for a 3-year-old resembling a freshly opened rose. The tucked white tulle softens the line under the brim and two tabs of the tulle, wired around the edge, stand up from a rose made of the folded silk. The pretty bonnet ac companies a frock of machine-embroidered white pique, hand-scalloped at the edges. At 7, that most fascinating age of childhood, a babyish bonnet is still per missible, provided the little maid wears her hair in a becoming frame around her face. A veritable picture hat has a tlraped crown of pink straw and the brim Is fashioned of three overlapping frills of pleated pink chiffon. A rosette and streamers of pink ribbon at one side cover the joined ends of a wreath of tiny roses In pastel tints. "With the hat is worn a frock of machine em broidery. Baby blues and rosy pinks are for the angel-child with blue eyes and golden tresses. The little maid with olive skin and brown eyes, however, has the tawny yellow shades all to herself and looks her best in them. A hat of gold -colored fancy straw is trimmed most effectively with apricot tinted rib bon over which are narrow frills of val lace. Here and there on the lace are placed roses In a deep tea-rose shade, verging on the orange. Tested Her Courage. Mrs. De Timid (at hotel) I beg par don, but did you not say you were presented to the king during your tour abroad? Her Neighbor Yes, madam. Mrs. De Timid And you spoke of other experiences of a like nature? Her Neighbor I was presented 'to several of the crowned heads of Eu rope, talked with many of the great generals and noted diplomats, and was granted an audience with the pope. Mrs. De Timid Weren't you scared? Her Neighbor Not at all. Mrs. De Timid Then, if you are not afraid, I wish you would tell the head waiter that the saltbox Is empty. .r?:. . mmmmmmm "S'" VPS i vf -WC.. 'vS'll. x9aV 3or7 7ve--,sf& .-CrZfy- Pose HATS AND COATS OF LIKE MATERIAL GIVE A JAUNTY AIR TO LITTLE FOLKS Unconventional Colors Are in Vogue This Year for Children Exclusive Mothers Neglect Baby Blue and Rose Pink for More Fashionable Hue Outing Headgear Includes Tried and True Sailor, With New Brims. EVERY little girl cannot wear every hat designed for childhood. Not by any means though it is a mis take constantly made by mothers who rely more on what the shops offer than on their own sense of the fitting and artistic. The child with mignonne fea tures and plenty of soft, curly hair about her face is adorable in a picture shape piled with ribbon and flowers; but the same hat will be most unbe coming to the plain visaged little girl with large features and lank, ' thin hair. Ruffly lace caps set coquettishly on the head are, by the same token, enchanting on some little faces, while to others they are most trying. Neither can all children wear all col ors and the mother is positively un kind who, deeming baby blue and rose pink the appropriate tints for child hood, condemns her olive-complexioned. hazel-eyed little daughter to these in fantile shades, when In subtle greens, corn-color or blues with a Nattier or Dutch tone the small personality would be interesting and chic. This year the unconventional colors that is to say. the colors not hereto fore awarded by custom and propriety to childhood are fashionable for lit tle folk. Mais and burnt orange, ab sinthe green, turquoise blue, tango red, coral and the very smart Mexican red are being bought at the ribbon counter for hair and sash bows by exclusive mothers' and the baby blues and rose pinks are suffering through neglect. And In the millinery departments one notes the preponderance of oddly-colored hats hats that will be exceed ingly smart and striking on the right sort of children; whtcn means, of course, children with the kind of pret tiness that will be set off to advantage by these colors. As a matter of fact, all children are pretty, because of their freshness of tint and softness of con tours. Even the plain little girl may be made to have a charm of her owii by the right sort of toggery and, like a homely woman, will often be ex ceedingly smart and interesting In styles and hues that a merely pretty person could not assume. Ht Matoh Spring Coata. Most charming bonnets for small girls accompany some of the Spring coats shown at high-class outfitting shops The hat and coat obviogsly in tended to match have an air of dis tinction and expensiveness a look of the specially ordered-from-Paris, or at least from a shop that follows Paris closely that never attends the coat and tne hat selected at random from ready-to-wear departments. One vf these exclusive coat and hat sets was purchased the other day at an outfit ting shop just off Fifth avenue. The coat was of gold-colored mohair and worsted mixture, made long in the waist and short in the skirt, the two sections being divided by a broad belt of black velvet fastened under a pearl buckle. The coat buttons were of white pearl and a broad white collar ' and deep cuffs of white tango crepe hem stitched at the edge lent the finishing touch. With this coat was sent home a fetching hat of gold-colored horse hair straw, having a brim pointing out at the sides in the famous "Castle" style affected by the popular dancer of that name. The hat crown was a softly puffed affair of gold-colored ma terial like the coat mohair and wor sted mixture and across the front of the hat was a flat, pleated bow of white grosgraln ribbon. Simple to a degree, but infinitely smart and distin guished was this combination of gold and white lor a child of 6. The cos tume will be completed for the street by black buttoned boots and stockings of heavy white thread silk. Another matching hat and coat com bination includes an obliquely fasten ing coat of checked pussy willow taf feta ideal silk for childhood because of its pretty name and its sturdy, re liable weave belted with navy blue velvet that matches the blue and green check and brightened by collar and cuffs of tine white machine scalloped batiste. The hat is a mushroom shape of green hemp, trimmed with a fes tooned wreath of tiny silk roses in blue and rose shadings. Hats Trimmed With Bona. Still another exclusive coat, of twig brown Egyptian crepe with a brocaded design In the same woody gray-brown tone, is piped with white silk and has two belts, each piped with white, and Is accompanied by a poke shape hat of white pleated tune frills with a brim lining of twig brown velvet. Against the side of the crown are tucked two small pink roses. Even the hats for very little girls, and most of the hats for half-grown girls, have brims of straw with crowns of draped or puffed silk, and all-straw shapes are trimmed with huge, smart ly wired bows of silk. Such bows are smarter Just now than tied bows of ribbon and the silk most used is the soft, lustrous pussy willow taffeta in plain or moire weave. Flower trimmed hats will be worn with handsome silk coats and with lingerie dresses of em broidery and batiste, but with the early Spring costume for walking on the ave nue or in the park the smart child wears a tailored hat of straw with the silk trimming aforementioned. Such hats owe their distinction to modish ness of shape, richness of trimming material and cleverness displayed in the tying and wiring of the bow which slants away or sprouts up from the low crown. Sallorn Always In Favor. The tried and true sailor bobs up again, of course it is indispensable for childhood and this year there is a very smart new sailor type called the bowl er because of its resemblance to the low-crowned bowler hat of English ex traction. This low-crowned derby-sailor which is really what it is settles far down over the head and is worn tilted slightly backward. It Is of fine Milan straw and is nntrimmed, save for a smart, pleated brokade of ribbon standing up at one side. It looks well on girls of from 12 to 16 but is rather severe for younger children, to whom the roll-brim sailor or the mushroom type is more becoming. Young girls in their teens wear small. Jaunty hats like those of older women, but tbe girl's hat must be girlish, not sophisti cated; it must not be accompanied by a veil or by earrings, and its feather must be moderate and not obtrusively and daringly high. Outing hats for little people show the rather low crown and flexible brim which may be dragged down around the face. They are of Milan. Panama and stitched fabric. The popular trim ming is a broad scarf of silk drapea about the crown with ends tied smart, ly in a rather small, flat bow; or a puggaree such as the dandified youth now drapes around his Spring head gear. The puggaree may be of change able silk or of checked, Roman striped or figured tango crepe and it is simply twisted around the crown, the ends be ing tucked under the draped band, out of siht. If snap buttons are sewed to the crown of the hat and to the ends of various silk strips, the child may be supplied with any number of at tractively' smart puggarees to match various frocks. ' GERMANS CROSS FRONTIER Young Men Celebrating Emperor's Birthday Startle the1 French. PARIS, March 12. (Special.) Ger man exultation over the Emperor's birthday was manifested on the fron tier near Moyeyvre- in a fashion that might easily have led to an "incident." Twelve young German workmen from Moyeyvre imbibed numerous "bocks,' equipped themselves with na- rr nl W&X&A Just Before Dying Pioneer Tells of Early Days Mrs.i William Dundon on Deathbed Relates Incidents of Era When Indians Held Sway In Oregon. NEWPORT, Or., March 14. (Special.) With Father Time calling many pioneers of the days when Indians made the Yaquina Valley a forerunner for melodramatic moving-picture plays, reminiscences are becoming scarce and local history is becoming impersonal. Therefore a brief narrative of bygone days given a. few days ago by Mrs. William Dundon, who died Monday, aged 86, who had lived on Depot Slough, a mile from the present site of Toledo, since 1866, may prove in teresting. Mrs. Dundon died from pneumonia at the home of her son, Alonzo Dundon. Just before dying she gave the follow ing account of the early days on Ya quina Bay to her physician. Dr. F. M. Carter. It must be remembered that Yaquina Bay did not become settled or was even visited until long after other parts of the state. "I came across the plains from Rockland, 111., with my husband in 4866," said Mrs. Dundon. "We settled here and reared a family of four boys and two girls. There were no other white people near us. Game was very plentiful and everything was In a primitive state. "The Siletz reservation through the efforts of Senator Nesmith and Dr. Gerald Bailey had been partly thrown open to white settlers. At times we had ito subsist on game and, Indian flour made in the Willamette Valley from acorns and brought over on wag ons. Other Indian dishes made from herbs, etc., were often necessarily re sorted to. "The first Indian scare was due to the burning of a house by its white owner named Sawtell, who burned his home to collect the insurance and then said that his house had been pillaged and burned by the Indians. "This was in 1872. The settlers gathered in a fort on the Yaquina River across from Toledo and volun teers were organized to fight an at tack which never took place. Two steamboats, the Pioneer and the One ata, patrolled the river. "Indian disturbances were entirely unknown in Oregon at that time. In 1864 a white man named Ballard kilic.i a Shasta Indian, who, he said, had re fused to get out of a road in which he was driving pigs. The Indians de nied Ballard's statement and asked for retribution, but nothing was ever done. This happened near Philomath, v 'Jn 1876 a white man, still residing at Newport, named Thomas Boyle, killed Totoetanl Jafk following a brawl after a dance at Olsonville. The Indian had been drinking and was said to have insulted Boyle. "Totootani Jack had a bad record. It was said that he led a band of Modoc Indians against an immigrant train of 60 whites and that all the whites were brutally massacred. A Shasta chief named Tyee John assisted in the massacre. Tyee John had a voice which could be heard one mile. The Modocs were very treacherous. Ben Wright, cf the Rogue River, applied their tactics, for he arranged a peace EVERY NEMO CORSET HAS A PURPOSE EACH model is designed to meet the needs of some particular type of figure. If you buy a Nemo in a model that is not suited to your needs, or in a size too small; or, if you fail to adjust and wear it correctly, you will not have the Nemo corset-luxury that millions of women enjoy. Buy YOUR Corsets for a PURPOSE! Study your own figure and its needs. If your corsetiere is a member of the Nemo Hygienic-Fashion Institute, so much the better you'll soon oe reveling m iNemo corset-comiorc ana economy. Our new KOPSERVICE CORSETS meet Fashion's demand for the grace and freedom of the so-called "corsetless" figure, yet retain all the hygienic features for which the Nemo is famous. Two models for full figures and two for the slender and medium. Low bust (some almost "topless"); ( P tf K0RSERV1CE extra-long skirt with atone price elastic Lasticurve-Back. All These models combine the restful comfort of the old short corsets with the long, easv lines of the present mode. An ENTIRELY NEW effect. f NEMO SELF-REDUCING and LASTIKOPS CORSETS at $5.00 For full figures, Self-Reducing No. 506, with elastic Incurve-Back and elastic skirt-gores $5.00. Or, No. 523, with Las tikops Bandlet, for heavy figures $5.00. To reduce a full figure all around, below the wTaist-line, there's nothing better than Lastikops Corset No. 512, with its triple elastic reducing feature on the very long skirt. Low bust $5.00 PLEASE REMEMBER: Nemo Corsets are radically different from all others in a class alone, secure from com petition. There's no substitute no other "just as good." Look for the trademarks NEMO and LASTIKOPS they protect you from inferior imitations. Sold everywhere. Ask vour dealer. an the nemo hygienic-fashion institute, n. y. v lAsncumEgaw meeting, and when all the Modocs had arrived, the whites at a given signal killed all who were present. Soon af terward Wright was tricked and killed by Indians. "Thus the early history of the Ore gon Coast gradually passed into hands of farmers, and I am thankful that my life for 35 years has been In such a peaceful community that there is noth ing to relate except that the farmers have made great progress against great odds and prosperity Is at hand." remnant winter silks good for Waistcoats Odds and Ends May Be Made Up Into Enchanting Garments to Give Freshness and Charm to Spring Costume. THE woman who has been picking up remnants and odds and ends of attractive silks at bargain prices during the late weeks of Winter is fashioning them now into enchant ing waistcoats, which will be just the thing, a little later, to give freshness and charm to the Spring costume and to provide that slight needed protec tion under open coatfronts which bleak Spring winds make the part of wisdom. The new Spring tailleurs are gay lit tle affairs, with their abbreviated coats, held by one button at the bust and opening above and below to show the blouse. Few of these coats come with accompanying waistcoats, but the sales person frequently suggests to tne purchaser that a little silk waistcoat will make the smart suit wearable on chill, early Spring days, and further ;gests that such a waistcoat may be picked up downstairs on one's way out. The little silk waistcoat, however, is so absurdly easy to fashion in the home sewing-room that it' seems rather a pity to squander $5 or f0 on it when it might be made for $2 or $3 and the balance put into a more desirable tai lored suit. It is not necessary to buy enough silk for the whole waistcoat, unless one wishes; the back may be of sateen or any suitable lining material. The best-fitting waistcoats have well-fitted backs and rather large armholes and may be cut from any modern bodice lining. Instead of taking up darts at the front, under the bust, fold the material back in a deep pleat and stitching it evenly, giving the waist coat a flat, panel-like. effect at the cen ter front. The smartest waistcoats have a belt across the front of the waistline and poiited tabs below. These tabs may be mere points falling over the skirt or may reach the dig nity of a cutaway peplum effect. At the top the waistcoat will be deeply V d and furnished with a tapering co lar, which may roll away from the throat in Gladstone style or turndown flatly over the coat. Roman striped and pleated waist' coats are exceedingly smart with tail leurs of dark serge or mohair, but with a suit of lighter colored fabric the flowered silk waistcoat is prettiest. Pussy willow taffeta In moire effect makes a charming waistcoat for a golden brown tailleur of mohair and worsted stuff, included In a Spring trousseau. Another tailleur with a short cutaway Kton Jacket has a waist coat of Egyptian crepe in Post Im pressionist design. The short bolero or Eton coat Is not becoming to a stout figure with pro nounced bust lines unless it clings along the curve of the figure. Few ready-made coats will achieve this subtle effect, but if an Invisible snap fastener be attached under the edge of the coat and its button-mate sewed to the waistcoat, the two garments will cling together as cleverly as the coat and waistcoat of a cleverly built French tailleur. acreage was only a half mile from our little village, that was not far from Portland. We could drive to Portland and be back home for our' noon-day dinner. , Our newly acquired ten acres was unimproved, but the trees were not very close together, the growth was mostly fir with vine maple and ash in the swale, also there were a few grand old oaks. Five acres was mostly swale land, so that was the first to clear and place in a high state of cultivation, and then offered for sale. We soon found a buyer who paid us the cash, $500 an acre. This gave us $1500. We had money to pay off our debt on the place and build our bungalow. A Reasoning Juror. A lawyer once asked a man who had at various times sat on several juries: "Who influenced you most, the lawyers, the witnesses or the judge?" He expected to get some useful and interesting information from so ex perienced a Juryman. This was tlio man's reply: "I'll tell yer, sir, 'ow I makes up my mind. I'm a plain man and a reason in' man. and I ain't influenced by any thing the lawyers say. nor by what the witnesses say; no. nor by what the Judge says. I just looks at the man in the dock and I says: Mf he ain't done. nothing, why's he there? em all in guilty." and I brings "You will," said the attorney, during the course of their consultation: "you' will get your third out of the estate." "Oh!" axclaimed the widow, aghast, "how can you say such a thing, with my Forond scarcely cold in his grave." YOUNG WIFE TELLS HOW EARN MONEY AT HOME Suburban Acreage, Ability to Plan and Work, Use of Talents and Busi ness Tact Aid Mailcarrier and Mate to Build Own Domicile. BY MATTIE VAKN. AM going to tell you how I solved the question of "how to make money" during the first two years of housekeeping in our first tiny home. My husband was a rural mail carrier before, our marriage, and for many years after. We went to our home the day we were married. My father had given me an acre of very rich land, all highly cultivated, and Walter (as 1 will call my husband) had built a small house, about 18 by 24, which we intend ed to use as our wood-house after we were able to build a bungalow. , This "wood-house" was just In one room with stairway (iioorea witn rugs) which led up into a good roomy attic, also unpartitloned. This wood house with shed adjoining was out home for two years. No one could be happier than we were. In Summer our timu was mostly spent outdoors. Walter very quickly changed his clothes after the day's mail had been distributed, and gathered up his garden tools and went to work In the garden. I had a very interesting class of five bright fond girls and one boy, who wanted to learn "painting and draw int:." They took two lessons a week through vacation, and paid me 50 cents a lesson, so I was earning $6 a week from that work. Our studio was down by the small ' trout stream that ran close to our home. Vs we had a Jersey cow, we had all the cream and home-made butter we wanted lor us two, and some to spare, so, the surplus was sold to our grocer. We were both so fond of cottage cheese. I concluded to buy skim milk, that is, the milk which had been run through the cream separator at the large dairy close to us. This milk we soured and then made cottage cheese to sell to our butcher, who was very glad to buy all I could furnish him, paying me a fraction over 3 cents a pound for it. I made the cheese into pound balls, , unseasoned, rolled each pound up in 'oiled or waxed paper, that is used by the best grocerynien to wrap up slices of cheese ordered by their customers. The first August we spent on' our acre home was the time for us to set out strawberry plants just half the place was dedicated to the strawberry. Tne second season we netted $2.50 from the half acre. Of course we used com mercial fertilizers found the "Wiz ard" (which is pulverized sheep man ure), to be very satisfactory, much better for our berry patch than barn yard manure, as the latter always leaves the ground too weedy, also grass seeds are thus scattered through the small plants, making trouble and lots of hard work. Walter soon bought the ten acres joining our farm on very easy terms, paying $200 down, the balance "on or before" five years, at 6 per cent. Our Health and Beauty Hints BY SIRS. MAE MAETYN A. D. C: That itching and profuse dandruff plainly indicate an unhealthy scalp, ana wnen tnis condition is over come your hair will take on its former richness and beauty. Shampooing occa. sionallv with a teaspoonful of canthrox dissolved in a cup hot water cleanses and invigorates the scalp and rcsuUs in neaitny, Deautnui nair. J nis snam poo is very inexpensive and you will not only enjoy each shampoo, hut the results win be very gratilying. Janet: You and your husband both can easily get rid of the surplus fat if you follow these simple directions: (let 4 ounces parnotis from your druggist and dissolve in Hi pints hot water; when it cools take a tablespoonf ul be fore each meal. This reduction method is gradual and positive in its action and does not depend on diet or exercise for results. The skin will be left firm and free from wrinkles. Inquisitive: Your pimples and sallow complexion are caused by impurities in your system. Try this old-time blood purifier and tonic and I am sure you win ouiain excellent results: To pint alcohol add 1 ounce kardene (from drug store), then Vz cup sugar and hot water to make a full quart. Take a tablespoonf ul before each meal and your skin will grow clear and .the color of health will come back to your cheeks. This tonic is fine for aches and Ills prevalent in cold weather and tends to cleanse body of poisons caus ing rheumatism and kidney and liver troubles. Herma: I think all eyes are beautiful if clear and sparkling, and all eyes may be that If cared for properly. I put 2 or 3 drops of my simple home made tonic into each eye daily. When they are tired or the lids show any ten dency to Inflammation. I use oftener or bathe entire eye and lids. To make the tonic I get an ounce of crystos at the drug store and dissolve it in a nint of clear, cold water. Annabell: To be sure, von can have a clear, velvety, pink-and-white rompb'X- ion if you care enough to give it a lit tle attention each day. I advise dis carding powder and using a plain lo tion made by dissolving 4 ounces spur max (get from druggist) in Va pint witch hazel or hot water, to which should be added 2 teapoonfuls glycer ine. This is easily applied, dries quick ly and imparts a delightful tone to the complexion. Especially good for oily, sallow skins and cannot be detected when on. Pearl: Your wrinkles might be caused in many different ways, hut without regard to the cause, I am giving you a. certain relief which my friends and I have proven. This is inexpensive and is made as follows: Into pint water, stir an ounce alniozoin ffrom any drug gist) and add 2 teaspoont'ul.s glycerine. Apply the jelly cream plentifully on re tiring and massage well into the skin, then in the morning wash off and ap ply a little more. A few uch treatments will soon clear the skin of wrinkles, reduce the large pores and give to you a velvety complexion. Clara M.: You can help nature beau tify your hair by keeping your scalp perfectly healthy and free from dan druff or Itchiness. Make your own tunic and massage a little into the scalp and huir roots once or twice a week. I use Vj pint of alcohol, to which I add 1 ounce quinzoin and Vi pint water. This qulnzoin tonic soon puts the scalp in a healthy, pliant condition, overcomen dandruff and oillness and gives to the hair roots the strength necessary to produce a luxuriant growth of long, brilliant hair. Cora: Objectionable fuzzy or hairy growths are easily banished if you mix enough powdered delatone with water to form a thick paste and apply to hairy surface for 2 or 3 minutes, then rub off, wash the skin and every trace of hair is gone. Excepting In verV aggravated cases, one application of delatone is enough. No harm will re sult, but be certain you get delatone. Kead Mrs. Martyn's book, "Beauty," $5. Adv. "A woman is as old as herhair looks." Mothers with jrown-up daughters, whose hair is beemnin&r to turn gray, can revive their hair to its natural youthful color and brilliancy. Ko woman under 50 can afford to have Cray or faded hair. MaryT. Goldman's Gray Hair Re storer is not a crude dye or stain. It is a clear liquid, pure us water. It requires four to eight applications, one each day, to revive the life and natural color in faded or gray hair. Each daily application shows a marked improvement. Where the hair is just beginning to turn gray, the gray .ness will simply disappear with one or two applications. MaryT. Goldman's Gray Hair Restorer is a liquid that penetrates.. It cannot rub off or show a bit more tban the color could rub off your hair when you were fifteen, because it is so mUd. All pood druggists sell it at SI. CO per bottle. Crude dyes or stains are dirty, dangerous, harmful, and show plainly. They rub off and streak the hair. There are many thousands of men and women using my preparation. The offer made in the coupon is only for those who have not used Mary T.Goldman's Gray Hair Restorer. This offer will not be made again. Every bottle is sent prepaid. Mary T. Goldman 1SI Goldman Building, St. Paul, Minn. J MARY T. GOLDMAN, (60) J XSl Goldman Bldg., St. Paul, Minn. t SnI mfalt-lied 91 00 bnttl of MarrT. QoHmsn Gray Hair Rstorer. I enclave l"in (Lam pa or com to ' coTercharces. I "letnnly wer tliat I desira the Restorer ! for Eiy own us; lht I will not tell o- gixm it way. nl g that I hare never used or purchased MaryT. Goldman t Oraj Hair Restorer. 0 Sizn Full Warn J nearest Express Office f The oritinal color of my hair befora t it Martcd to fade t turn jray was I ( Inc-l" satrile f hair if cuitveuient) 1