G TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MARCH lo, 1914. HANDSOME, COQUETTISH HATS FOR LITTLE GIRJLS ARE VERY PLENTIFUL Wlite Fancy Straw With Black Velvet Ribbon and Pink Rosebuds Combined in Fetching Effect Others Match Coats Another Charming Model Is of Ever-Popular Lingerie. t; I; p & Y J' " " -p P Ve? .V Ai- jS r-i ' . . ' . f . - ; ? , ..', I ,.' 6 ' ' Hi i I i 1 A MOST fetohingr Summer hat for a wee coquette of 6 has been de vised with the always popular combination of white straw, black vel vet ribbon and tiny pink rosebuds. The hat, of fine white fancy straw, is lined under, the brim with broche pussy- CHICAGO'S "PAINTED LADIES" STIR DISTINGUISHED DOCTOR TO COMMENT Doris Blake Relates Conversation With Physician Who Calls Attention to Physical Harm of Wholesale Use of Cosmetics Affairs of the Heart Are Discussed and Advice Given. ' BY DORIS BLiAKE. THE other evening at a small gath ering in honor of, a celebrated physician a man who has trav eled much here and abroad first im pressionk were being discussed. The guest of honor was asked for his first impression of Chicago. His answer, was startling. Whether or not his accusation against Chicago women and girls is fully justified I am not prepared to say. But his classl-. fication of the painted lady must re main unquestioneo. He said: "My first impression was the violent use of cosmetics by Chicago women especially by young girls. Some one is getting rich very fast selling cosmet ics. Nowhere on this lobe can one see so much at one time as can be seen on my lady's nose, cheeks and lips in Chicago. What is the excuse? I can think of none that I would accept to grant a license for a 16 or 18-year-old young -woman to decorate herself in imitation of an underworldllng, and seemingly glory in the fact that she Is capable of attraction. "If the young women could hear the rude and ofttimes cruel things their supposed admirers say, it might cause them to abandon this injurious practice. No one wants to. believe young girls do this sort of thing because it is wrong. No one" wants to believe that Chicago parents approve of it, either.. But what a jolt is given pater when "he goes to the theater to escort daughter home after a matinee to find her In full war paint, blackened lashes, cherry lips and an alabaster nose. (Chicago girls seem to tackle the nose first, and if the ma terials hold Jut they then attack the cheeks.) When finished they represent a product nbt found elsewhere. Could dear, old, circumspect grandmother see her in all this vicarious glory I shud der to think of the classification she would relegate her to. "I admit there are times when a lit tle of the best face powder is war ranted. But at most it should be used with care. Why plug up the pores of the skin with dirt simply because it happens to be white or pink? "What has become of the type of girl with the beautiful complexion? The girl is iiere yes, I believe that but the fine skin, one of Nature's greatest gifts to womankind, is blotted out. "The remedy lies with the parents if the girl herself has not enough sense to understand the physical- harm done by cosmetics. Tell her men. have a spe cial niche for the painted one and an other and more exalted one for the nat ural girl. And here let me tell you a plain truth women, good women, who are always in the majority, areven .V .. ?S2.Z,c Z? willow taffeta in pale . pink a pink note repeated . by the small rosebuds ranged In wreath fashion ar-ound the crown, against a band of black velvet ribbon. At the back this black, velvet band is tied in a butterfly bow. To be part of a smart street cos more harsh in .their judgment of their painted, sisters than are the men." Words or KUsea First T "Dear Miss Blake: Should a man first speak of lovex before caressing . a woman, or caress her first? READER. A man has" no right to caress any woman except his fiancee. Until you have asked the woman to marry you and. she has consented,, it Is wrong for you in any way to caress her. He Treat Her Grand. "Dear Miss Blake: I care a great deal for a young man. About "a month ago I met him. Now I have been out with him about four times since then. I have a lot of admirers, and some how I cannot get a steady friend. Now, I love this one friend very much and want to know how I can win his love. He told a friend of mine he liked me very much, and when I am out with him he treats me grand. I have not heard from him since Sunday. Would you call him or wait and let him call? "C. L." Do not telephone him. He will call upon you as soon as he can, I am sure. Have Become Separated. "Dear Miss Blake: There is a girl that I love very much, but we have be come separated I left home, intending to return before the Winter, so gave no word to her, and when I came' back again she had gone and I have heard nothing' from her since. What can I do? " s." Do none of your friends know where the. girl has gone? I should think that you could And her address from some of them. Write her a little note and go to see her if possible. They've Never Met. "Dear Miss Blake: I am a young girl of 17, and am considered very at tractive. L occasionally meet a young man who rs very, persistent in his at tention toward me. He is also very jealous of other friends. Now, as I Answers to Correspondents BT LILIAN' TINGLE. PORTLAND, Or.. March S. Kindly give a recipe for health rolls made of graham flour "without baking powder or yeast; also for peanut buttter wafers made with gra ham flour. Thanking you in advance. MRS. S. D. Graham rolls without baking powder or yeast are not necessarily more healthful than those lightened by yeast or baking powder, providing the leav ening material is of good quality and the rdlls well made and well bakea. tume. Including: a coat of tan silk, a neat hat ha3 been designed, and the crown of the hat, shirred over cords, matches the material of the coat which is Egyptian crepe with a conven tional brocaded pattern in a dull gold color., This silk is used also for the brim of the hat, the under brim being fac.ed with shirred Nattier blue silk. Around the crown is a band of black velvet and small silk tomatoes in gold and Nattier blue are set at each side. The lingerie hat never goes out of fashion for little girls it is altogether suitable and becoming. One charming model has a brim of fluted lace and a crown of gathered white batiste, both being mounted over a shape of shirred silk. The ribbon surrounding the crown is pale blue in tint and against a big soft bow of the pale blue ribbon are arranged clusters of heliotrope that old-fashioned floweo which chil dren have always adored. This little girl wears with her pretty hat a frock of white machine embroidery, white silk, socks and buttoned boots of white buckskin. Crane Hiding Latest Fad. LOSBO.V, Feb. 2. (Special.) The society , woman's very latest smupe ment is the crane ride. The architects engaged in the erection of great build ings are bombarded with requests 110m lady friends for free trips in the buck ets of the great cranes which are now the features of a London townscape. The swinging ascent and the view at the top are said to provide all the sen sations of ballooning. like this young man, how could I get acquainted with him in a proper man ner, as we have never been properly introduced? GWEXDLYNN." I do not understand how the young man can be persistent in his atten tions toward ; ou when you have never met him. If he is eager to meet you he will have no trouble in finding some one who can introduce him to you properly. If he does not seek such an introduction do not allow yourself to think of him. His Family Objects. "Dear Miss Blake: I have read youi good advice to others, so I came to you for advice, too. I am a girl of 20 and have been going out with a gen tleman two years my senior. I have not been keeping steady company with him, but he occasionally asks me to go to a show or to a party with him, and has asked me several times if I will only ' call him up and let him know when I am going to a friend's house unescorted he will be glad to call for me and see that I get home safely. He is a gentleman in every way and 1 think a great deal of him. His family, for some reason-or another, when they found he called on me a little ottener than they cared to have him, has caused him quite a little trouble on account of me. He does not think that I know anything of what has been going on in his .home. What do you think J should do? Go out with him when ha asks me, or tell him I have an en gagement? If I should accidentally meet him when he is with anyone of his family he just showers me with attention. I will be governed by your advice. DISTRESSED." There is no reason why you should not acept the attentions of the young man. His family will tire of annoying him, I am sure. If you are congenial you would be doing yourself an injus tice by refusing to see him, especially as he pays no attention to his family's objections. Indeed the latter frequently may be found more easy of digestion than un leavened rolls that are heavy, soggy and imperfectly penetrated by heat, as they are very apt to be. Some people, you know, eat things with- the idea in their minds expressed by the small boy who said, "Mother, I don't believe this ean be health food;-it tastes good." However, I hope the- following may be w.hat you want. I am giving you also a recipe for graham gems, made without baking- powder, as these are usually lighter and more digestible than the rolls. Plain graham wafers can be made by rolling the first mixture very thin, prickrng with a fork and baking care fully on an inverted baking tin. Plain Graham Rolls Stir graham flour into one cup Ice cold water until the dough is stiff enough to be easily handled. Knead 20 minutes, until very soft and elastic. Shape as quickly as possible after kneading into rolls four inches long, one inch wide and one half to one inch thick. Place on a greased pan a little apart from one an other, prick well with a fork and bake in a rather quick oven for 30 minutes. No salt is put into this bread by those who believe they are better without it, but most people will consider a little salt necessary both for health and for flavor. . Plain Graham Gems Oil heavy iron gem pans very thoroughly and heat them in a very hot oven. While they are heating mix one cup ice cold water with ones cup whole wheat or graham flour, with or without salt according to personal needs, and beat rapidly with an egg beater, entangling as much air as possible in the batter. Drop two tablespoons of this batter Into each of the hissing hot, well greased gem pans and bake quickly in a hot oven 15 minutes. Peanut butter and graham wafers- Mix smooth V cup peanut butter andH cup warm water, beating to a sort of cream. Stir in . V teaspoon soda, a little salt, if. approved, and enough wholewheat flour to make an easily handled dough; knead thoroughly, roll very thin, cut in fingers or diamonds. Prick with a fork and bake carefully on an inverted baking pan until crisp For variety, the tops of these wafers may be brushed with beaten egg and sprinkled with roughly-chopped pea nuts. Or a few raisins may be chopped and mixed with the dough. Willows. Cal. Will you kindly tell me in the columns of The Oregonlan what is the difference between the California and Florida grape fruit? When in Portland I used to buy the pale, thin-skinned ones, which ware full of pits and sold as Florida fruit, 'and the thick, dark-colored ones with out pits as California fruit. Are they both grown in California, the name of "Florida" being given to the one kind to denote the variety? Are the 'California" ones shipped in from that state and the "Florida" ones from Florida? 1 have been unable to find anyone here -ho knows anything about them. W. B. J. I believe . most of the light-colored "Florida" grapefruit on the Portland market come from Flor ida, but I may be mistaken. I think, also, that certain kinds of grapefruit known in California ' are known as "Florida varieties." The Florida fruit is usually paler in color than the California fruit, but is not necessarily "full of pits," any more than the California fruit is necessarily al ways free from pits. There are "seed less" fruits of both varieties, I believe. The shape and the flavor also vary. I am sorry to have so little information to offer, but perhaps some reader may be tempted to impart some special knowledge. Oak Point; Wash., Feb. 22. I have been reading your recipes in The Oregonlan for some time and I enjoy them very much. Now I am asking a favor. Will you kindly publish a recipe for drop cakes? I would prefer the plain kind, that is, without nuts or fruit. I would like also a recipe for chile con .carne. Thanking you In advance. MRS. E. O. A recipe for plain molasses drop cakes was given recently in this col umn. Chile con carne recipes have also been given too recently to be repeated in detail at present. Chile con carne is a general name for a meat stew with rich gravy flavored with Spanish or Mexican peppers, onions, and garlic. The ordinary rules of stew-making (low temperature, long cooking, de velopment of flavor) hold good. The exact amount of peppers and garlic is a matter of personal taste. Either the ready prepared "Chili powder" or the pulp made by soaking and scraping the dried red peppers may be used in flavor ing. Chicken, pork or beef may be se lected as a basis for the stew. Optional Ingredients are ripe olives, red beans. a few raisins. Let me know if the following is not what you want. Remember that very good drop cakes can be made by adding a little home-made "self-raising flour (flour mixed with 1 level tablespoonful baking powder to the previously once sifted pint), to any ordinary butter cake mixture. This is a useful "short cut" on baking days. You mix a little more cake batter than Is necessary for your ordinary cake pans. Leaving, say. 1 cup batter in the bowl, you lightly fold In a little self-raising flour until the drop consistency is reached, add a few nuts and raisins (or not, as liked) drop from the tip of the spoon on s greased baking sheet, and bake in s moderate oven. The "left over" batter of chocolate or spice cakes may be sim ilarly used. Plain Drop Cakes cup shortening, 1 cup sugar, 1 egg, hi cup milk or wa ter, 2 teaspoons baking powder, about 3Vi cups flour. Spice or flavoring to taste. Cream the shortening and sugar, beat in the egg, water and a little flour gradually fold In the rest of the flour to make -a very heavy drop batter. The exact amount depends upon the kind of flour used. Drop In teaspoonsful upon a well greased baking sheet, well apart. Bake in a moderate oven to a delicate brown. A little cocoa may be used for flavoring if liked. Let me know if you want a still plainer recipe. Salem, Or., March 3. I wonder if you could give me a plain water recipe to serve with salad for evening entertainment Thanking you in advance. MRS. T. H. You do not say whether it is a "sweet" or "savory" wafer you have in mind. So much depends upon the kind of salad, as to what wafers would be appropriate. You might like the peanut butter wafers given above, or cheese wafers made by rolling ordinary baking powder biscuit dough or pastry one-eighth inch thick, covering one half of it with grated cheese, seasoned with salt and mustard or cayenne to taste., folding the other half of the dough over the cheese, and rolling as thin as possible. Cut in fingers, dia monds or fancy shapes, prick over and bake carefully in a moderate oven. Spice or nut wafers may be simi larly made, using a little granulated sugar with cinnamon or mixed spice or chopped nuts, or chopped nuts and raisins in place of the grated cheese. Menus of the Week Tuettdnr. Clam broth. Rice and lima bean toaf. Tomato sauce. Cabbage and pimento salad. Apple dumplings. 9 Coffee. Wednesday. Vpije table bo up. Baked lamb shoulder. Jardiniere of vegetables. Potatoes. Lettuce salad. Prune whip. Coffee. v Thursday. Barley broth. Shepherd's pie in casserole. Onion sauce. Tomato Jelly salad. Chocolate pudding. Coffee. Friday. Lentil soup. Spanish omelet with. peas. Savory rice. Spring ealad. Jellied fruits. ' Coffee. Saturday. Crecy soup. Scotch collops. potato border. Vegetable salad. Canned loganberry shortcake. Coffee. Sunday. Clear soup. Roast lofn of pork, apple sauce. ' Browned potatoes. Creamed onions. Littuce salad. Grape sponge. Coffee. Monday. Celery broth. SUced pork In gravy. Mashed potatoes. Spinach. t. Celery and apple salad. 'i Hot eintrerbreail with rpftm. . S LUNCHEON CLOTH WITH CUBIST BORDER IS FAD Latest Whimsie, However, Not "Adaptable to Formal Affairs Set of - Design Nice Shower Gift for Bride.-Elect. w - V . - -XL v Hv . H N- . ' ' V; . : LUNCHEON cloths of fine white linen damask, with Cubist border designs, are the last fad of the woman who keeps up with the whim sies of fashion, not only in her ward robe but also in her household. These new lunch sets, which include asmall tablecloth and half a dozen napkins, are bright and cheerful in coloring, and with properly selected chinaware and flowers make the informal lunch eon table quite gay and attractive. They are not, of course, suitable for formal luncheons, but may be used for an informal luncheon of four or six; or for the light refreshment following an afternoon bridge party, when small cloths are spread over the bridge tables Orange marmalade, apricot marma lade, or chocolate cream wafers may be similarly made from plain pastry or biscuit dough. Sweet wafers Cream cup butter. V2 cup powdered sugar, 4 tablespoons milk, 1 cup bread flour, a few drops of flavoring. Spread as thin as pos slble on an inverted baking pan. Mark in squares. Heave plain or sprinkle with nuts as preferred, and bake about five minutes in a moderate oven, ihey may be rolled, if liked, while still warm, rolling, of course, "top side" out. Dif ferent colors are easily obtainable with a very small quantity of color paste. The following may also be combined with cheese or nuts: Plain graham wafers One cup coarse graham flour, li cup cornstarcn, z tablespoons brown sugar, or 1 table spoon molasses, '4 teaspoon baking powder, Vi teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons shortening, milk to make a dough so stiff as to roll with difficulty. Mix like baking powder biscuit, turn out on a board and beat with a rolling pin. Ron out evenly, not more than one-sixteenth inch thick, cut into fingers, dia monds or fancy shapes, and bake in a moderate oven. Watch the baking very carefully so as not to overbrown the edges. Tomato wafers Make as above, omitting the molasses and using canned undiluted tomato soup in place of the milk. For variety either of the last two wafers may be brushed with egg and sprinkled with chopped nuts. Or when partly baked, a little dry grated cheese may be sprinkled over the surface. Cordova, Alaska. Tour correspondence column Interests me very much and I have tried many of the recipes with good results. Now I am asking a favor, but think it may be out of your line, for it relates to crochet work. But ' I thought your column would be the means of helpine'me out, as some reader might come to my aid. Now what 1 wish Is the working directions for a beaded crochet purse that was shown In tho Woman's Companion about two years ago about Christmas time. The article stated the different colors of beads used. The design was a basket with flow ers. At the time I kept that issue of the magazine, but since I have mislaid it. I have written to the publishers, but they do not keep back numbers on file to refer to. so my only hope Is through your column. I enclose 40 cents In stamps for mailing the magazine should I bo fortunate enough to SOUR, UPSET STOMACHS FIVE MINUTES' Best for Indigestion, Gas, Heart burn and Dyspepsia It's Great! When your meals don't fit comfort ably, or what you eat lies like a' lump of lead in your stomach, or if you have heartburn, that is a sign of indigestion. Get from you1 pharmacist a fifty cent case of Pape's Diapepsin and take a dose just as soon as you can. There will be no sour risings, no belching of undigested food mixed with acid, no stomach gas or heartburn, fullness or heavy feeling in the stomach, nausea. before sandwiches and coffee are passed around. The Cubist border design is In three sections, on the tablecloths, and the in nermost section is repeated on the nap kins. The flowers .are printed in dull blue, red and green on the white ground, the dividing lines being terra cotta and black. One of these luncheon sets, incased in an envelope of white linen, makes an attractive bridge prize, and will be appreciated ' by a bride-to-be as a shower gift. The white linen envelope case may be embroidered with a mono gram in colors matching the Cubist border design, and a snap button un der the envelope flap will hold the case securely and not interfere with its laundering get directions. Or if a reader wishes a set price kindly let me know the' price and 1 will remit the amount. Thanking you. MRS. M. L. I am printing your letter In the hope that some reader may have the direc tlons you desire. Covers for Drawing-room Tables. Gorgeous is the one word descriptive of the so-called "art covers used upon drawing-room tables. And they cannot be made of whatever odds and ends are in the house. All of the materials must be made of fresh-looking if not absolutely new, and there must be no piecing of lengths, as the joinings will certainly show if any strain is put upon tho spread. The art cover calls for six yards of brocaded, figured, embroidered, ap pliqued or hand-painted very wide sash ribbon which, having been cut into three even lengths, is placed entre deux with equally wide strips or white or pale-toned heavy satin. There must be seven of these plain lengths, since four of them are to form the outside border of whose edge is fulled a 12 inch deep flounce in striped silk, weighted with gold braid put on in scroll or Greek key design over its en tire surface and also finishing the lower edge. The entire spread must be lined with thin silk matching the shade of the plain strip and on that side a monogram should be hand-embroidered in gold thread. These covers, when placed over a table of ordinary size, conceal all save Its feet and they go far toward dressing up and brighten ing a shabby, old-fashioned drawing room. Luncheun Napkins. A very beautiful set of luncheon napkins may be made by inserting an initial of lilet into each corner, with a narrow filet lace edging-. Napkins of this kind sold in the shops are very expensive, but since you know how to do the darned filet network, you could make a set. of this sort without any difficulty. The little filet squares on which the initials are darned can be purchased ready made, and the initial can be worked on them. These little squares are hand-made, and if you do not un- -PAPE'S DIAPEPSIN debilitating headaches, dizziness or in testinal griping. This will all go, and, besides, there will be no sour food left over in the stomach to poison your breath with nauseous odors. Pape's Diapepsin is a certain cure for out-or-order stomachs, because it takes hold of your food and digests it just the same as if your stomach wasn't there. Relief in five minutes from all stom ach misery is waiting for you Tat any drug storo. These large fifty-cent cases contain enough "Pape's Diapepsin" to keep the entire family free from stomach disor ders and indigestion for many months. It belongs in your home Adv. FIXED derstand thoroughly the making of the foundation net. it would be best to purchase the squares. Linen thread should be used for the darning and instead of an initial, con ventional patterns can be darned Into the net. Beautiful luncheon sets can be made by using insect of filet medallions and solid embroidery. Two Hall Conveniences. A shoe duster and a long-handled overshoe remover are things that will add to the comfort, of any family if they are hung in a convenient place near the hall entrance, throughout th Winter and early Spring rains. They can be homemade. The duster may be made from a piece of old blanket 01 any thick woolen material, cut into a fringe and tacked to an old handle of a feather duster, or just a stick, so that dust may be flicked from the shoes without any stooping. The overshoe remover may be made by using a stick about a yard long, and the lower end cut into a strong and capable shoe horn. In this form, one can stand upright instead of get ting smeared by the dripping and mud-caked shoe. Hairpin Cushions. A small pasteboard box, either round or square in shape, can bo con verted into a very handsome ihairpin receiver. Remove the lid of the box and covet the sides and bottom with either rib bon or satin of some plain color. Fill the box with either horsehair or lambs' wool, packing it full enough to extend a little above the box. Over this fash ion a piece of chiffon, tacking it down at the sides with a bit of gold net. Around the top and bottom of the box to conceal the joining paste a strip of gimp. In place of the gimp, a strip of chiffon flowers can be used. These little flowers can be purchased by the yard in the shops and can read ily be overcast with fine stitchee around the top and bottom of the hair receiver. "o Music for Him. William (who has been persuaded to contribute to our annual concert) Can 'ee tinkle "Varmer's Boy." miss? Squire's Daughter Have you brought your music? . William Music! I don't sing by music: I sinss by hearsay. Ugly and Deep. Caused Much Rest lessness Night and Day, Used Cuticura Soap and Ointment. Wound Disappeared. 14.-i2 Harrison St., Oakland. Cal. "A little over a year ago my little nephew struck his head, a little back of tho temple. on the tongue of the rusty lock of our cellar door. It tore the scalp and made a very ugly painful wound. It v as a very deep wound and caused my little nephew much restlessness night and day. . The wouud persisted in remaining open. " We applied the usual remedies, , , and other anti septic remedies with the result that after six weeks the wound had not healed and the hair was matted around It. At that time a sample of Cuticura Ointment reached me and I proceeded at once to use it with the Cuticura Soap. I purchased more and it could not have been a week when all signs of the wound had disappeared, leaving the spot where it had been in perfect condition." (Signed) Miss Jane Young. Oct. 17, 1913. To prevent falling hair, remove crusts and scales, and allay itching and irritation of the scalp, frequent shampoos with Cuticura Soap, assisted by occasional dressings with Cuticura Ointment, afford the speediest and most economical treatment. Cuticura Soap (25c.) and Cuticura Ointment (50c.) are sold everywhere. Liberal sample of each mailed free, with 32-p. Skin Book. Address post card "Cuticura. Dept. T, Boston." tTMen who shave and shampoo with Cu ticura Soap will find it best for skin and scalp. Freckle -Face Now la the Time to iiet Riii of Thrxc Lgly SpotK. Do you know how easy it is to re move those UKly spottf so that no one will call you freckle-face? Simply get an ounce of othine, dou ble strength, from your druggist, and a few applications should show you how easy it is to rid yourself of freckles and get a beautiful complex ion. The sun and winds of February and JIarch have a strong tendency to bring out freckles, and as a result more othine is sold in these months. Be sure to ask for the double strength othine. as this is sold under guarantee of money back if it fails to remove the freckles. Adv. "TIZ" PUTS JOY IN SORE, ACHiNG FEET 'My, how 'TIZ' gladdens swollen, sweaty feet It's glorious!" tired, "TIZ" makes sore, burning, tired feet fairly dance with delight. Away go the aches and pains, the corns, callouses, blisters, bunions and chilblains. "TIZ" draws out the acids and poisons that puff up your feet. No matter how hard you work, how long you dance, how far you walk, or how long you re main on your feet, "TIZ" brings restful foot comfort. "TIZ" is magical, grand, wonderful for tired, aching, swollen, smarting feet. Ah! how comfortable, how happy you Veel. Your feet just tingle for joy; shoes never hurt or seem tight. Get a 25-cent box of "TIZ" now from any druggist or department store. End foot torture . forever wear smaller shoes, keep your feet fresh, sweet and happy. Junt think! a whole year's foot comfort for ouly cents. Adv. PAINFUL WOUND : ON BOY'S HEAD 5' HaiP! Happ! 3sS3 1