v 4 TTTE SUNDAY OTCEGONIAN, PORTXAXD. JANUARY 4, 1914. GABY DESLYS BRINGS RARE ARRAY OF FINERY TO THE HEILIG Famous "Tiger Coat," Imitation Aigrettes, Made in Exact Likeness of Her Real Ones, and Stunning Gowns to Be "Worn in Portland. , 11 v , C . v,,'- .41 ? s K II 11 v ' 41 4 h M . If , y w 'r l 4( II It V'A-' --s.w- I . iciS-'-'' U "--x K f yrt:- . - . , y x x 1 vr;7 - 11 x :t :" ' i - -, :1c, "4 v i- . 1 1 II - v- V : o II - , l-' if' $ . A U ; 1 i - 1 itw.' ;-Vir- If It - - ' jtt-AL , , J vVw-i 11 S&V'V t5'- if it - wVrrA tts '11 ---7 V W . " '"Sfc.f S II II ill i? -.'v " y ' - - - ;V 1 vv. yy U ZMss II III ' i" . n n, . i - '-;ixJ ' - fAfMi n - s U . - 11 ? ' i v -v7 tc!?- ill - "I - v . , 11' : I $Sv jzZ-1- , 11 ' ,1 v" ' ll e - 4 fi 'z&f2 11 tL l II Uv - ' i U' il - - - 'VKi 6fe 'VWn1: ill "1 ' I 1 lis ' . iw 1 111 . - . s : ll , 'lit , , ;yt --: , J pi I . t $''(Tvv'f II ill -V f " 'f - ' stffeMzW Iln Hi- - - . I r- "v: ' - - -SJJ twHs-'riy I ? II i - " an 'I M I I l-v - v ? $ 5 - 1-jf - w -v . lf ifv.-:;- iv- "J-w lf 11 , ' ' , V tnV V J- ' ' - - f'.. ,"ffr" - s ,:"V 1 - llfr-: t'&lr' v i-Sfv - - " f 4f lit - -"' V KSv3 , 1 f-4w rvwl lit - ... --t' v " ? V r-r ' -v-n r- , ( af . ,L - . ' -l if lit x x ; iX V p-P3 -;;3lr - . K:jl tlv - hC-r i f' - v? , . 5 W 1 It.. - - S n - " x-A"-- ? -i j " ' v t '." I ,k4.-X-4V -3 jAf J - ' ' -(I I I assented and next mornlne at 8 i tr M lit gf . J S!, I H: XS- - SSf&-N I "'clock she was in readiness for the SSr Jrl s " -0V"- -V- , 1 -'l. 'MWV -JfClr -Jll words, "Action, please." and I an inter- Sfj B . Jv-s. 6. .k"' , LIME .Z"". f vi J ll ested spectator all day. Oh wee. Oh me: I Poor Gaby Dcslys Sam Paradise has crossed the sea, , Her gowns anew And fine hats, too. Are shorn of birds that are taboo. IT DOESN'T matter at all, at all, how of paradise Mile. Gaby Deslys has many million dollars' worth of birds over In Paris or thereabouts, we won't see 'em. How our customs men shame us, and how ungallant of Uncle Sam to ehut out the bird that made her fam ous. But we needn't be downhearted because we will think we are seeing them. For Gaby is bringing imitations to this city when she appears at the Helllg Theater Sunday, January 11, matinee and night, and thev are so good that we won't know the difference, and if we think we see them, why what Is the difference? The real bird may have made her famous, but she is famous enough now to do without him. One of her most startling hats shows a pretty velvet set made by Paul Poi ret In seal brown and trimmed in blue and tango flowers. Another is de signed by the artist, Drian, and is made up In black velvet, Chantilly lace and black paradise. Another is also in black velvet with a sheaf of aigrettes tied with satin ribbon. Green velvet and Russian fitch are effectively combined In another, while a. jaunty street hat by Georgette is composed of alternate stripes of blue and gold with a bow of double faced ribbon in the two shades at the front, under which is posed an unusual fea ther fantasie. When asked what she considered the most striking of all her costumes. Mile. Deslys replied, "My tiger coat." One can easily understand why she con siders this the most alluring because Baby always prefers the bizarre, the striking and startling. This is true of her costumes for the stage, but in the privacy of her Pullman, her hotel, or even In public restaurants, she affects the simple. The tigrer coat was designed by Ktl enne Drian, the famous dry paint art ist of Paris. Drian saw Gaby last Spring, was attracted to her on ac count of her striking beauty and her manner of wearing odd clothes, and offered to design a few gowns for her. She readily accepted the offer, and the tiger coat was the first result of Drian's work. Mile. Deslys has established a rule that she never wears- the same costume twice in the same city, but the rule is broken when it comes to the tiger coat. This she wears at every per formance. Gaby Deslys is said to have so many costumes that when they were being made for her in Paris last Summer she was unable to have them all fitted upon her trim little figure. In lieu, she em ployed a young woman exactly of the same measurements as herself, and the substitute attended to the hard work. "Nothing is more trying on the con stitution and one's nerves," says the pretty little Frenchwoman, "than to 7 - 1 i have to stand for hours at the dress maker's and be fitted. But I had to have new clothes for my American tour, and consequently I hit upon this Idea. It Is a very good one." Gaby was reminded that every American woman couldn't afford such luxuries. In fact, many women only have one or two gowns 'made each sea son. "Terrible," she exclaimed, "I cannot imagine such a thing." Gaby, who cornea here next week, al ways goes to the leading dressmakers of the French capital, or rather, they come to her. Last Summer she patron ized Landorf and Paquln. These two, she declared, were quite enough. "You see," she said, "my costumes are all so different one from the other that it is not necessary for me to go from one place to the other. I do most of the designing myself, and I always see to It that my Ideas are widely dif ferent. Last Summer, however, I had the good fortune to meet Etienne Drian, the famous dry paint artist, and he of fered to make ine a few original cos tume sketches. , "I gladly accepted his proffer, and am glad to say that the results were most gratifying. Wait till you see. I am sure my new American friends will be delighted with what I wear. Every thing is what you say 'the last word.' That is what I always strive for. Whether it be a gown or a hat, I want something original, and as I can af ford to pay the price I usually get what I want. "It Is the same with my work. Oh, I work ever so hard to please. When I first came to America I could speak only a few words of your language. My managers deplored this fact, but I told them not to worry; little Gaby would soon pick up enough to satisfy all. So, before I returned to Paris that season I was able to sing a half dozen songs in your tongue. Then I got down to hard work. I employed two teachers, and when I came back to New York the following Fall I learned my whole part In English. J. J. Shubert. who has always been so kind to me at the New York Winter Garden, was more than delighted, and now I use little or no French on the stage. In 'The Little Parisienne' I sing one song in French because I believe that the people will be anxious to hear me sing in my na tive tongue. Then a number of Ameri cans understand French." STYLISH TUXEDO COLONY APPROVES BLACK AND WHITE EVENING FROCKS Newest Whims in Distinctive Evening Attire Seen Far Coats Take Place of Silk Evening Wraps Worn in - Town Skating and Tramping Togs Bear Mark of Good Tailoring. NEW YORK, Jan. S. (Special.) Tuxedo gaiety, of the midwinter sort, is at its height in early Jan uary, for in these days those who dote upon real Winter sports must seize the opportunity when It comes, and only Six weeks or o of regulation Winter are to bo counted upon. By the end of February the wind may take a no tion to whisk around south any min ute and then farewell to any possibil ity of skating, coasting and snowball In g. The Tuxedo colony is as Itinerant as the Arab. Here today and gone to morrow might be its motto; for Tux edo is so near New York that a good motorcar will carry one to town in an hour or so and the joys of town vie strenuously with the joys of the coun try. Opera, new plays, Important so cial affairs and opportunities for hear ing the best music keep the devotee of out-of-dor life constantly on the jump between the metropolis and the Tux edo home; but there is always a fair sprinkling of Winter enthusiasts at this picturesque spot and the Saturday night affairs are well attended. Outlna; Tosrs Hail-Marked. The woman who stays up at Tuxedo through January from sheer love of the out-of-doors Is well provided with warm and comfortable Informal wear ables for enjoying the sports that pre sent themselves. Yet for all their In formality these mid-Winter outing togs are Immensely smart and becom ing tnd have admirable lines of their own. In a motorcar warmth is the first requisite of a wrap and one does not mind a little weight as well for It Is good when one sits still in a searching wind to snuggle into a huge fur coat and under a heavy fur rug; but for active exercise, even In the coldest weather, wraps must be light enough not to be burdensome and fine, expensive wools, beautifully woven, are preferred to fur for outing coats. The ideal tramping rig, for enjoy ment of Invigorating walks along the beautiful Tuxedo road before the snow has come. Includes a knee-length coat, loosely cut and built of all-wool homespun, frieze or tweed, a big coat, double breasted, with fur collar that may be turned up about the throat, and deep pockets Into which cold hands may be thrust for a muff is an abom ination on. a real country tramp. Under this coat, on specially bleak days, is buttoned a clinging sweater of angora wool, through which no reasonable amount of cold, can penetrate. A short skirt of homespun or corduroy, flaw lessly cut and with flat pleats cun ningly Inserted to give room for a wide step without destroying smart lines, swings just clear of the ankles, ar$l with sturdy tramping boots of tan calf and a fur cap that may be drawn down over the ears, one is equipped delightfully for an afternoon out of doors. s The dainty, high-heeled buttoned boot which sets off the draped town costume is out of place on a rutty country road and not far could its wearer walk In It. Buttoned or laced boots, with broad, moderately low heels and plenty of room under the ball of the foot, should be provided for tramp ing, whether at Tuxedo, Aiken, Hot Springs, Lakewood or any other mid Winter resort. Skating; Ton Even Leu Formal. Like motor-boating, skating Is the occasion In mid-Winter when one may wear "any old thing" to be comfortable and not care a jot what anybody thinks. The delectable velvet and fur skating dresses which one sees In the rinks In town are not exploited at Tuxedo, where the fun Is enjoyed In most In formal garb, sweaters and even mit tens forming part of the Jolly equip ment. Angora sweaters again are the best choice, as they are extremely light, as well as warm as toast; and if the sweater Is matched bv a long scarf to wrap cozily around the throat and a bonnet to tie snugly over the ears, all that is needed to complete a perfect skating rig is a short, not too narrow skirt of warm material and a pair of hockey boots with skates at tached. Black and White Frocks In Favor. In contrast to these most informal out-of-door togs, the dress worn in the evenings at the smart Tuxedo col ony Is most conventionally formal. Sev eral new evening gowns, just from Paris, have been exploited at Tuxedo during the past week which were par ticularly gay, and it was to be noted that in the chilly drives from house to house' fur coats were at a premium, draped silk wraps having evidently been left behind In town. A notable feature of the dinner dances that make up the evening fes tivities at Tuxedo has been the num ber of black "and white and gray cos tumes worn. Particularly smart was a dinner gown with a black chiffon min aret tunic over a draped black panne skirt. The chiffon tunic was edged with a band of fox fur and a row of white pearl beads. Over it fell a shorter tunic, pointed at front and back of jet and steel pailletted net. A but terfly bow of black tulle was held at the point of the decolletage under a pearl ornament- In gray tones was another dinner gown which showed a long tunic of shadow lace, weighted at four corners with silver tassels, over dainty frock dansante, was worn by a debutante. The skirt of white satin was partly veiled with a sloping tunic of silver laco edged with ermine. The bodice with a rounded decolletage was also of the silver lace and floating sleeves of sliver net were weighted with the almost inevitable tassel. With this frock were worn long gloves of broidered white silk, held up, above the elbow, by bracelets of beaten silver. Blornlnsj Gown Haa Distinction. Informal In suggestion, yet rarely luxurious In fact. Is a morning gown designed for Tuxedo wear by a woman who goes in for bridge rather than out of door sports. This gown Is oi Ivory white duvetyn and Is simple in cut. Its whole effect suggesting a simple tennis skirt and jacket fasten ing loosely over asilk blouse. But the simple duvetyn skirt Is exquisitely cut and falls in straight, perfect lines to the instep of a white buttoned buck skin boot. The bolero jacket of white duvetyn opens over a blouse of tapestry blue taffeta having Ivory white ball buttons and narrow pleated rufflsa down the front, around the loosely rolling collar and the pointed tabs which fall below the waistline. There arc also turned back cuffs of the blue taffeta, trimmed with pleated ruffles and these cuffs are fitted closely to the wrist, snap buttons being provided in an opening so that the sleeve may be slipped off with ease. There are also some snap buttons un der the bolero edge, so that it snaps down upon the tapestry blue blouse and trt whole costume is trig and trim. A girdle of black velvet ribbon with an ivory clasp finishes this charming cos tume for morning wear. SCENARIO WRITING IS WOMAN'S LIVELIHOOD Declaration That Years of Experience Are Needed Is Sconted ty Writer of Moving-Picture Plotfi Some Ideas Are Stolen. BY LAURA 0UBREIL. ft T often occurs to one's mind, during A school and college days, "just what vocation in life will I follow? For what work am I best adapted?" etc.. But we have not reckoned with the one great factor in our lives fate. Many know the great joy it brings to one's heart when the long thought of ideals are realized without a struggle, while with the majority fate has played its game of tag and their ideals have been dashed to pieces by a mountain ous sea of circumstances and they awake to the fact that life is a stern reality. Naturally one casts around for some means of livelihood and then comes the crucial test of finding out just where, in this big world, is the niche one is to fill successfully. One may fail at his first attempt, as was my case, but even tually he will drift into his place. Dire necessity often develops a talent that has been an unknown guest. . Circum stances or facts played such an Impor tant part in my life that one morning I found myself in a large city without funds and with few friends. The firm by whom I had been employed failed during the night and my employer had flown, leaving me a note pinned on the door saying: "Owing to financial re verses" I must look elsewhere for a po sition and my salary check would not be forthcoming at the present. Turning about to enter the elevator, I encountered a lady in tears and nat urally being solocitous, I approached her and asked if I could be of any as sistance. She seemed very grateful for a kind word so I lingered and chatted with her until she had regained her composure and she told me she had been a victim of my employer. Walking to the corner together, she told me she was employed by a moving picture com I pany and asked me 11 i would like to Years of Experience Needed. Being imbued with the moving pic ture spirit, I conceived the idea of writ ing a scenario. So during our a la cafe teria dinner (so popular in Southern California) I confided my aspirations to her. She laughed at me, saying it took years of experience, etc., but not discouraged, I went to my room, sat down and, using my firm's failure my meeting with her, etc., as incidents, I wrote my first scenario. Naedless to say, I could hardly wait for morning, breakfast and the first car to the man ager's office. Having had some news paper experience, I felt I had conceived a plausible story but, not being famil iar with the form required for scen arios, I was at once told I must secure a form and put my story into scenes. This I did and next day returned with my scenario, which was accepted after considerable remodeling, blue pencil ing, etc. Feeling greatly elated over my first successful attempt, I was saturated thoroughly with the "movie fever." 1 lived around the "moviercities" In search of material, but I soon found this was not the. proper course for, out of six scenarios submitted to different com panies, only two were accepted. Fact Pat Into Scenarios. About this time I was called away from the city and during the trip sev eral chance acquaintances told me interesting stories of their own, as well as others' lives. Immediately 1 could see where I could make a scen ario from their stories and I have found that my most successful scen arios were true stories told me by parties mainly concerned. Of course, some humor, pathos and characters must be supplied, but life everywhere is so full of moving picture material that thousands could write scenarios and never exhaust the supply. Few people realize what a tremen dous field of opportunity Is offered to talented writers. In Southern Cali fornia, the home of perhaps 50 moving picture companies, they are begging for scenarios. Good, bad and indifferent have been accepted out of sheer neces sity heretofore, but now great care Is being exercised in their selection. A scenario first goes Into the reader's hand and. If considered, it goes before a scenario board. If passed by that body. It Is sent to the board of directors for final acceptance. Much skill and talent must be dis played in writing a scenario, which, when summed up, gives the public a good. Interesting plot and makes scen ario writing a very profitable and en joyable vocation. Plots Once Stolen. In days gone by, many times my scenarios have been returned to me and by chance I would casually drop Into a movie theater and see my plots depict ed. This has been abolished entirely by a recent law which protects the writer from Infringement, but many a poor scenario writer has gone hungry be cause some manager in his greed for money has stooped to "steal" some one's hard thought-out plot. Of course Interest never ceases until work is pro duced. Naturally, changes are made In the original, but it is a great source of satisfaction to sit quietly in a theater and be a spectator while one of your scenarios is being "run off." And many times it Is not so pleasant, for disap pointing remarks reach one's ears, but it all helps In the end. Many times when the writer lives near the producing company she Is asked to come out and depict some part. Once I was called to play the part of a heroine, because no one in the com pany could ride horseback as I wished it done. Until one has visited In Southern California, particularly around Los Angeles. It is difficult to realize the growth of the moving picture business. Whole cities are built and made up of "movie" actors and actresses now, where a few years a"to nothing but sagebrush and cobble stone greeted the eye, and where one scenario writer was employed years ago, hundreds are writing now and the demand cannot be supplied. five trade unions of the French' feather ndustrles, which provide work for 50,- 000 women, have protested against the accusation laid at their door, and re plied that the use of feathers of birds as a decoration for hats is a means of insuring the birds' preservation. Milliners Answer Charges. PARIS, Jan. 1. (Special.) Apropos of the -campaign against the use of feathers in the trimming of millinery. CANADA TO UTILIZE CANAL Official of Huge Grain Company Sees New Route to Market. CALGARY, Alta., Dec. 30. (Special.) That the Panama Canal will be the route of Alberta wheat to the markets of the world almost exclusively Is the opinion of E. J. Fream, of the Grain growers' Grain Company, the largest organization of its kind in the world, who has Just returned from a trip to the Pacific Coast. Several arguments have been ad vanced by grain men and others to the effect that the grain will shrink from the heat in passing through the canal unless it is sacked. Mr. Fream de clares that it will be out of the ques tion for the immense volume of Al berta grain to be shipped in bags, but he. does not take much stock In the shrinkage theory, which has evIHently been advanced by opponents of the Western route. Pay for Rehearsals. London Punch. Actor I must Insist on being paid for rehearsals. Manager What on earth for? I never heard of such a thing. Actor Because lately I've had so many six weeks' rehearsals for a 10 days' run. But I don't mind giving the performances free. A good many people hate sham, but a certain amount of it is necessary. Take Off fSis Fat Where Si Shows Most women suffer much humiliation 6ecause ol great quantities of fat, so lo cated that, no matter how they dress, everybody sees that they are abnormal This Is the day of the slender figure, and fat women are simply not tolerated either In business or social affairs. Women may not know It, but men when they see a fat woman pass them on the street or in public places make all manner of sym pathetic remarks about her. They do not mean to be unkind or to ceem un manly, but It Is natural for a man to dislike fat on a woman. Where fat shows the most there is where It must be removed, and as quickly as possible. This season's dresses seem to be made for the fat woman's misery, and the slen der woman's delight. They expose all the charms of woman and her ugliness as well. Exercise and diet will not re move fat. This has been proved. The famous Marmola prescription which has met with such phenomenal success and has so many of our society women cs Its sponsors. Is now beln? sold In tab let form to meet the demand of the public for this style of treatment. These little tablets go into your system Jut like food. They ptop the stomach and di gestive apparatus from producing fat and reduce the fat upon the body at the rate of about 12 to 15 ounces a day. They are harmless and can be carried in your purse and taken even after you have in dulged in a hearty meal away from home. They are sold at all drug stores at 75 cents a case, or 'f you prefer you may write the Marmola Company, Farmer Bids., Detroit, MV.b.