The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, January 04, 1914, SECTION FIVE, Page 4, Image 56

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TTTE SUNDAY OTCEGONIAN, PORTXAXD. JANUARY 4, 1914.
GABY DESLYS BRINGS RARE ARRAY OF FINERY TO THE HEILIG
Famous "Tiger Coat," Imitation Aigrettes, Made in Exact Likeness of Her Real Ones, and Stunning Gowns to Be "Worn in Portland. ,
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Sfj B . Jv-s. 6. .k"' , LIME .Z"". f vi J ll ested spectator all day.
Oh wee. Oh me: I
Poor Gaby Dcslys
Sam Paradise has crossed the sea,
, Her gowns anew
And fine hats, too.
Are shorn of birds that are taboo.
IT DOESN'T matter at all, at all, how
of paradise Mile. Gaby Deslys has
many million dollars' worth of birds
over In Paris or thereabouts, we won't
see 'em. How our customs men shame
us, and how ungallant of Uncle Sam to
ehut out the bird that made her fam
ous. But we needn't be downhearted
because we will think we are seeing
them. For Gaby is bringing imitations
to this city when she appears at the
Helllg Theater Sunday, January 11,
matinee and night, and thev are so
good that we won't know the difference,
and if we think we see them, why what
Is the difference?
The real bird may have made her
famous, but she is famous enough now
to do without him.
One of her most startling hats shows
a pretty velvet set made by Paul Poi
ret In seal brown and trimmed in blue
and tango flowers. Another is de
signed by the artist, Drian, and is made
up In black velvet, Chantilly lace and
black paradise. Another is also in
black velvet with a sheaf of aigrettes
tied with satin ribbon.
Green velvet and Russian fitch are
effectively combined In another, while
a. jaunty street hat by Georgette is
composed of alternate stripes of blue
and gold with a bow of double faced
ribbon in the two shades at the front,
under which is posed an unusual fea
ther fantasie.
When asked what she considered the
most striking of all her costumes. Mile.
Deslys replied, "My tiger coat." One
can easily understand why she con
siders this the most alluring because
Baby always prefers the bizarre, the
striking and startling. This is true of
her costumes for the stage, but in the
privacy of her Pullman, her hotel, or
even In public restaurants, she affects
the simple.
The tigrer coat was designed by Ktl
enne Drian, the famous dry paint art
ist of Paris. Drian saw Gaby last
Spring, was attracted to her on ac
count of her striking beauty and her
manner of wearing odd clothes, and
offered to design a few gowns for her.
She readily accepted the offer, and the
tiger coat was the first result of Drian's
work. Mile. Deslys has established a
rule that she never wears- the same
costume twice in the same city, but
the rule is broken when it comes to the
tiger coat. This she wears at every per
formance. Gaby Deslys is said to have so many
costumes that when they were being
made for her in Paris last Summer she
was unable to have them all fitted upon
her trim little figure. In lieu, she em
ployed a young woman exactly of the
same measurements as herself, and the
substitute attended to the hard work.
"Nothing is more trying on the con
stitution and one's nerves," says the
pretty little Frenchwoman, "than to
7 -
1
i
have to stand for hours at the dress
maker's and be fitted. But I had to
have new clothes for my American tour,
and consequently I hit upon this Idea.
It Is a very good one."
Gaby was reminded that every
American woman couldn't afford such
luxuries. In fact, many women only
have one or two gowns 'made each sea
son. "Terrible," she exclaimed, "I cannot
imagine such a thing."
Gaby, who cornea here next week, al
ways goes to the leading dressmakers
of the French capital, or rather, they
come to her. Last Summer she patron
ized Landorf and Paquln. These two,
she declared, were quite enough.
"You see," she said, "my costumes
are all so different one from the other
that it is not necessary for me to go
from one place to the other. I do most
of the designing myself, and I always
see to It that my Ideas are widely dif
ferent. Last Summer, however, I had
the good fortune to meet Etienne Drian,
the famous dry paint artist, and he of
fered to make ine a few original cos
tume sketches. ,
"I gladly accepted his proffer, and am
glad to say that the results were most
gratifying. Wait till you see. I am
sure my new American friends will be
delighted with what I wear. Every
thing is what you say 'the last word.'
That is what I always strive for.
Whether it be a gown or a hat, I want
something original, and as I can af
ford to pay the price I usually get what
I want.
"It Is the same with my work. Oh,
I work ever so hard to please. When
I first came to America I could speak
only a few words of your language. My
managers deplored this fact, but I told
them not to worry; little Gaby would
soon pick up enough to satisfy all. So,
before I returned to Paris that season
I was able to sing a half dozen songs
in your tongue. Then I got down to
hard work. I employed two teachers,
and when I came back to New York
the following Fall I learned my whole
part In English. J. J. Shubert. who has
always been so kind to me at the New
York Winter Garden, was more than
delighted, and now I use little or no
French on the stage. In 'The Little
Parisienne' I sing one song in French
because I believe that the people will
be anxious to hear me sing in my na
tive tongue. Then a number of Ameri
cans understand French."
STYLISH TUXEDO COLONY APPROVES
BLACK AND WHITE EVENING FROCKS
Newest Whims in Distinctive Evening Attire Seen Far Coats Take Place of Silk Evening Wraps Worn in
- Town Skating and Tramping Togs Bear Mark of Good Tailoring.
NEW YORK, Jan. S. (Special.)
Tuxedo gaiety, of the midwinter
sort, is at its height in early Jan
uary, for in these days those who dote
upon real Winter sports must seize the
opportunity when It comes, and only
Six weeks or o of regulation Winter
are to bo counted upon. By the end
of February the wind may take a no
tion to whisk around south any min
ute and then farewell to any possibil
ity of skating, coasting and snowball
In g.
The Tuxedo colony is as Itinerant as
the Arab. Here today and gone to
morrow might be its motto; for Tux
edo is so near New York that a good
motorcar will carry one to town in an
hour or so and the joys of town vie
strenuously with the joys of the coun
try. Opera, new plays, Important so
cial affairs and opportunities for hear
ing the best music keep the devotee of
out-of-dor life constantly on the jump
between the metropolis and the Tux
edo home; but there is always a fair
sprinkling of Winter enthusiasts at
this picturesque spot and the Saturday
night affairs are well attended.
Outlna; Tosrs Hail-Marked.
The woman who stays up at Tuxedo
through January from sheer love of
the out-of-doors Is well provided with
warm and comfortable Informal wear
ables for enjoying the sports that pre
sent themselves. Yet for all their In
formality these mid-Winter outing
togs are Immensely smart and becom
ing tnd have admirable lines of their
own. In a motorcar warmth is the
first requisite of a wrap and one does
not mind a little weight as well for
It Is good when one sits still in a
searching wind to snuggle into a huge
fur coat and under a heavy fur rug;
but for active exercise, even In the
coldest weather, wraps must be light
enough not to be burdensome and fine,
expensive wools, beautifully woven,
are preferred to fur for outing coats.
The ideal tramping rig, for enjoy
ment of Invigorating walks along the
beautiful Tuxedo road before the snow
has come. Includes a knee-length coat,
loosely cut and built of all-wool
homespun, frieze or tweed, a big coat,
double breasted, with fur collar that
may be turned up about the throat, and
deep pockets Into which cold hands
may be thrust for a muff is an abom
ination on. a real country tramp. Under
this coat, on specially bleak days, is
buttoned a clinging sweater of angora
wool, through which no reasonable
amount of cold, can penetrate. A short
skirt of homespun or corduroy, flaw
lessly cut and with flat pleats cun
ningly Inserted to give room for a wide
step without destroying smart lines,
swings just clear of the ankles, ar$l
with sturdy tramping boots of tan
calf and a fur cap that may be drawn
down over the ears, one is equipped
delightfully for an afternoon out of
doors. s
The dainty, high-heeled buttoned
boot which sets off the draped town
costume is out of place on a rutty
country road and not far could its
wearer walk In It. Buttoned or laced
boots, with broad, moderately low heels
and plenty of room under the ball of
the foot, should be provided for tramp
ing, whether at Tuxedo, Aiken, Hot
Springs, Lakewood or any other mid
Winter resort.
Skating; Ton Even Leu Formal.
Like motor-boating, skating Is the
occasion In mid-Winter when one may
wear "any old thing" to be comfortable
and not care a jot what anybody thinks.
The delectable velvet and fur skating
dresses which one sees In the rinks
In town are not exploited at Tuxedo,
where the fun Is enjoyed In most In
formal garb, sweaters and even mit
tens forming part of the Jolly equip
ment. Angora sweaters again are the
best choice, as they are extremely
light, as well as warm as toast; and
if the sweater Is matched bv a long
scarf to wrap cozily around the throat
and a bonnet to tie snugly over the
ears, all that is needed to complete a
perfect skating rig is a short, not too
narrow skirt of warm material and a
pair of hockey boots with skates at
tached.
Black and White Frocks In Favor.
In contrast to these most informal
out-of-door togs, the dress worn in
the evenings at the smart Tuxedo col
ony Is most conventionally formal. Sev
eral new evening gowns, just from
Paris, have been exploited at Tuxedo
during the past week which were par
ticularly gay, and it was to be noted
that in the chilly drives from house
to house' fur coats were at a premium,
draped silk wraps having evidently
been left behind In town.
A notable feature of the dinner
dances that make up the evening fes
tivities at Tuxedo has been the num
ber of black "and white and gray cos
tumes worn. Particularly smart was a
dinner gown with a black chiffon min
aret tunic over a draped black panne
skirt. The chiffon tunic was edged
with a band of fox fur and a row of
white pearl beads. Over it fell a
shorter tunic, pointed at front and back
of jet and steel pailletted net. A but
terfly bow of black tulle was held at
the point of the decolletage under a
pearl ornament- In gray tones was
another dinner gown which showed a
long tunic of shadow lace, weighted at
four corners with silver tassels, over
dainty frock dansante, was worn by a
debutante. The skirt of white satin
was partly veiled with a sloping tunic
of silver laco edged with ermine. The
bodice with a rounded decolletage was
also of the silver lace and floating
sleeves of sliver net were weighted
with the almost inevitable tassel. With
this frock were worn long gloves of
broidered white silk, held up, above the
elbow, by bracelets of beaten silver.
Blornlnsj Gown Haa Distinction.
Informal In suggestion, yet rarely
luxurious In fact. Is a morning gown
designed for Tuxedo wear by a woman
who goes in for bridge rather than
out of door sports. This gown Is oi
Ivory white duvetyn and Is simple in
cut. Its whole effect suggesting a
simple tennis skirt and jacket fasten
ing loosely over asilk blouse. But the
simple duvetyn skirt Is exquisitely cut
and falls in straight, perfect lines to
the instep of a white buttoned buck
skin boot. The bolero jacket of white
duvetyn opens over a blouse of tapestry
blue taffeta having Ivory white ball
buttons and narrow pleated rufflsa
down the front, around the loosely
rolling collar and the pointed tabs
which fall below the waistline. There
arc also turned back cuffs of the blue
taffeta, trimmed with pleated ruffles
and these cuffs are fitted closely to the
wrist, snap buttons being provided in
an opening so that the sleeve may be
slipped off with ease.
There are also some snap buttons un
der the bolero edge, so that it snaps
down upon the tapestry blue blouse and
trt whole costume is trig and trim. A
girdle of black velvet ribbon with an
ivory clasp finishes this charming cos
tume for morning wear.
SCENARIO WRITING IS
WOMAN'S LIVELIHOOD
Declaration That Years of Experience Are Needed Is Sconted ty Writer
of Moving-Picture Plotfi Some Ideas Are Stolen.
BY LAURA 0UBREIL.
ft T often occurs to one's mind, during
A school and college days, "just what
vocation in life will I follow? For
what work am I best adapted?" etc..
But we have not reckoned with the
one great factor in our lives fate.
Many know the great joy it brings to
one's heart when the long thought of
ideals are realized without a struggle,
while with the majority fate has played
its game of tag and their ideals have
been dashed to pieces by a mountain
ous sea of circumstances and they
awake to the fact that life is a stern
reality.
Naturally one casts around for some
means of livelihood and then comes the
crucial test of finding out just where, in
this big world, is the niche one is to
fill successfully. One may fail at his
first attempt, as was my case, but even
tually he will drift into his place. Dire
necessity often develops a talent that
has been an unknown guest. . Circum
stances or facts played such an Impor
tant part in my life that one morning
I found myself in a large city without
funds and with few friends. The firm
by whom I had been employed failed
during the night and my employer had
flown, leaving me a note pinned on the
door saying: "Owing to financial re
verses" I must look elsewhere for a po
sition and my salary check would not
be forthcoming at the present.
Turning about to enter the elevator,
I encountered a lady in tears and nat
urally being solocitous, I approached
her and asked if I could be of any as
sistance. She seemed very grateful for
a kind word so I lingered and chatted
with her until she had regained her
composure and she told me she had
been a victim of my employer. Walking
to the corner together, she told me she
was employed by a moving picture com
I pany and asked me 11 i would like to
Years of Experience Needed.
Being imbued with the moving pic
ture spirit, I conceived the idea of writ
ing a scenario. So during our a la cafe
teria dinner (so popular in Southern
California) I confided my aspirations
to her. She laughed at me, saying it
took years of experience, etc., but not
discouraged, I went to my room, sat
down and, using my firm's failure my
meeting with her, etc., as incidents, I
wrote my first scenario. Naedless to
say, I could hardly wait for morning,
breakfast and the first car to the man
ager's office. Having had some news
paper experience, I felt I had conceived
a plausible story but, not being famil
iar with the form required for scen
arios, I was at once told I must secure
a form and put my story into scenes.
This I did and next day returned with
my scenario, which was accepted after
considerable remodeling, blue pencil
ing, etc.
Feeling greatly elated over my first
successful attempt, I was saturated
thoroughly with the "movie fever." 1
lived around the "moviercities" In search
of material, but I soon found this was
not the. proper course for, out of six
scenarios submitted to different com
panies, only two were accepted.
Fact Pat Into Scenarios.
About this time I was called away
from the city and during the trip sev
eral chance acquaintances told me
interesting stories of their own, as
well as others' lives. Immediately 1
could see where I could make a scen
ario from their stories and I have
found that my most successful scen
arios were true stories told me by
parties mainly concerned. Of course,
some humor, pathos and characters
must be supplied, but life everywhere
is so full of moving picture material
that thousands could write scenarios
and never exhaust the supply.
Few people realize what a tremen
dous field of opportunity Is offered to
talented writers. In Southern Cali
fornia, the home of perhaps 50 moving
picture companies, they are begging for
scenarios. Good, bad and indifferent
have been accepted out of sheer neces
sity heretofore, but now great care Is
being exercised in their selection. A
scenario first goes Into the reader's
hand and. If considered, it goes before
a scenario board. If passed by that
body. It Is sent to the board of directors
for final acceptance.
Much skill and talent must be dis
played in writing a scenario, which,
when summed up, gives the public a
good. Interesting plot and makes scen
ario writing a very profitable and en
joyable vocation.
Plots Once Stolen.
In days gone by, many times my
scenarios have been returned to me and
by chance I would casually drop Into a
movie theater and see my plots depict
ed. This has been abolished entirely by
a recent law which protects the writer
from Infringement, but many a poor
scenario writer has gone hungry be
cause some manager in his greed for
money has stooped to "steal" some
one's hard thought-out plot. Of course
Interest never ceases until work is pro
duced. Naturally, changes are made In
the original, but it is a great source of
satisfaction to sit quietly in a theater
and be a spectator while one of your
scenarios is being "run off." And many
times it Is not so pleasant, for disap
pointing remarks reach one's ears, but
it all helps In the end.
Many times when the writer lives
near the producing company she Is
asked to come out and depict some part.
Once I was called to play the part of
a heroine, because no one in the com
pany could ride horseback as I wished
it done. Until one has visited In
Southern California, particularly around
Los Angeles. It is difficult to realize the
growth of the moving picture business.
Whole cities are built and made up of
"movie" actors and actresses now,
where a few years a"to nothing but
sagebrush and cobble stone greeted the
eye, and where one scenario writer was
employed years ago, hundreds are
writing now and the demand cannot be
supplied.
five trade unions of the French' feather
ndustrles, which provide work for 50,-
000 women, have protested against the
accusation laid at their door, and re
plied that the use of feathers of birds
as a decoration for hats is a means of
insuring the birds' preservation.
Milliners Answer Charges.
PARIS, Jan. 1. (Special.) Apropos
of the -campaign against the use of
feathers in the trimming of millinery.
CANADA TO UTILIZE CANAL
Official of Huge Grain Company
Sees New Route to Market.
CALGARY, Alta., Dec. 30. (Special.)
That the Panama Canal will be the
route of Alberta wheat to the markets
of the world almost exclusively Is the
opinion of E. J. Fream, of the Grain
growers' Grain Company, the largest
organization of its kind in the world,
who has Just returned from a trip to
the Pacific Coast.
Several arguments have been ad
vanced by grain men and others to the
effect that the grain will shrink from
the heat in passing through the canal
unless it is sacked. Mr. Fream de
clares that it will be out of the ques
tion for the immense volume of Al
berta grain to be shipped in bags, but
he. does not take much stock In the
shrinkage theory, which has evIHently
been advanced by opponents of the
Western route.
Pay for Rehearsals.
London Punch.
Actor I must Insist on being paid
for rehearsals.
Manager What on earth for? I
never heard of such a thing.
Actor Because lately I've had so
many six weeks' rehearsals for a 10
days' run. But I don't mind giving the
performances free.
A good many people hate sham, but
a certain amount of it is necessary.
Take Off fSis Fat
Where Si Shows
Most women suffer much humiliation
6ecause ol great quantities of fat, so lo
cated that, no matter how they dress,
everybody sees that they are abnormal
This Is the day of the slender figure, and
fat women are simply not tolerated either
In business or social affairs. Women may
not know It, but men when they see a fat
woman pass them on the street or in
public places make all manner of sym
pathetic remarks about her. They do
not mean to be unkind or to ceem un
manly, but It Is natural for a man to
dislike fat on a woman. Where fat
shows the most there is where It must
be removed, and as quickly as possible.
This season's dresses seem to be made
for the fat woman's misery, and the slen
der woman's delight. They expose all
the charms of woman and her ugliness
as well. Exercise and diet will not re
move fat. This has been proved. The
famous Marmola prescription which has
met with such phenomenal success and
has so many of our society women cs
Its sponsors. Is now beln? sold In tab
let form to meet the demand of the public
for this style of treatment. These little
tablets go into your system Jut like
food. They ptop the stomach and di
gestive apparatus from producing fat and
reduce the fat upon the body at the rate
of about 12 to 15 ounces a day. They
are harmless and can be carried in your
purse and taken even after you have in
dulged in a hearty meal away from home.
They are sold at all drug stores at 75
cents a case, or 'f you prefer you may
write the Marmola Company, Farmer
Bids., Detroit, MV.b.