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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 2, 1913)
7 s NEW OPERA COSTUMES ARE DIGNIFIED ANDj)lSTINCTIVE; LINES ARE SIMPLE Fluffy Chiffons and Nets Selected for Gay Dancing Frocks American Beauty Brocade Handsome With Combi nation of Velvet, Pearl and Rhinestone Trimmings, With Graceful Bodice Waist Lines Out of Fashion. ' . ' V ' n r" ' ;f' ft i:: . , -::y :-jt.-ifi..y.'-: . fmllTLJS fluffy chiffons and nets are t W 1 AJ ' , . . , . , euiccicu itfr sy utile aancms frocks, the opera costume must have a certain amount of dignity and distinction. This beautiful gown ' of Ymerican beauty brocade is simple of Jllne, but extremely handsome, with its ombination of costly velvet brocade. rv 1 GALA GARB OF SWAGGER SET IS READY FOR HORSE SHOW AND OPERA Pursuit of Pleasure So Alluring to New the Business of NEW iuntv, nov. x. (special.; There is only one thing more i-;iliAnt than Njiw York's OreAt White Way, and that is New Tork's KJreat White Way on the opening nigftt of Metropolitan opera. This important event which formally opens the gay season, comes hard upon the heels of the opening of horseshow week, and precedes the early December festivities In honor or tne season s aeDutanies. Bv the last of November, therefore, khe woman of society must be provided with a full complement of evening ap parel, of brilliant gowns and wraps for opera and theater, of fetching ball trocks. or nawiess tauieurs tor tne horsa snow, 01 eiaooraie aiiernoon toilettes for trie round of debuts, teas. ;ire-hoiiday weddings and other airairs that are crowded into busy December. Of course, most of this gala garb has keen ordered long since during the (August sojourn in Paris, perhaps, or (oven away back last May, or early In September, when luxurious cars motor in from out-on-the-Island, or up-in- fWestchester and draw up before exclu sive dressmaking establishments In town. Many women of the smart set will not bother to make the trip across to Paris for new clothes, preferring to spend their time in the gay French jcapical In more amusing ways than ae hecting hats and frocks. They entrust their dressmakers here with Paris com jmisslons or rely on being suited with iParis models brought over by the dressmaker who naturally keeps the tastes of her important patrons in imlnd while making purchases abroad. Wrapa More Than Gowns. The gown worn in an opera box really counts for very little after all, except that it offers a peg for the newspaper reporter to hang hla story ion: jnrs. a. in ciei orocaae, wito diamonds, goes into tne paper; or, "Mrs. V. wore crysOU embroidered chif fon with pearls;" and nothing is said about the resplendent wraps with which Mrs. A. and Mrs. v. made their real sensation in the carriage foyer. The parterre boxes are a blaze of lipht and Jewels, but after the first act, in the heated, perfumed air. It is hard to distinguish the details of frocks even with a strong opera glass -and if one may say so. most of the frocks are hidden from the range of vision, below the edge of the boxes, the amount of costume from the waistline up being very negugioie. But in the foyer if one la lucky enough to find a quiet place of ob servation there one may feast the eye upon trailing, superb brocades and lovely gowns visible under gorgeous wraps- flung open at the front. This season, by the way, there Is a fad tor allowing the evening wrap to drop ott one sHoulder a fashion set by a certain beautiful French actress at Monte Carlo last Spring, and the - la a. iiitiau tji ictiivciy graceiui one. ts a. in X abric of the wrap falling into i folds below the arm, while of fur or velvet outlines 9 LU the delicate white line of AT- 3 on Opera Gownn. n?r frocks this season short, in fact, reveal- 4 ? 1 i J pearl and rhlnestone trimmings and most graceful bodice drapery. The grown is posed against a wrap of Amer ican beauty velvet lined with palest corncolor satin. Long silk gloves em broidered on the wrist accompany the grown. The exclusive dressmakers make nathing of the waist line whatever. In York Women in Paris That They Entrust Their American Modistes With Selecting and Ordering Smart Frocks and Gowns. ing the feet plainly, and !n this feature they are entirely different from more stately opera gowns which are almost invariably trained, except in the cases of quite young debutantes. Opera gowns, also, are made of more sub stantial fabrics than the gauzy, dia phanous dancing frocks of the mo ment. The richest brocades go into them or costly satin meteor or char meuse overdraped with beaded tunics. Velvet also is a favorite material for the opera costume and the lustrous lansdowne, a combination of worsted and silk, which has a very beautiful texture and is liked for clinging skirts under tunics of heavily beaded, chiffon or net. While the dancing frock has grace and a soupcon of coquetry for its primal attributes, the opera gown is designed primarily to show oif its wearer's jewels, and the simple dig nity of handsome fabrics is best cal culated to do this. Diamonds Come Into Tlielr Own Again. For a brief space diamonds have been out of first fashionable favor and Oriental .effects in Jewelry have been the vogue. Oddly set emeralds and rubies, eccentric ornaments of hand wrought metal set with sunken cabu chon stones selected for their coloring rather than their intrinsic value, have been highly exploited, and Indeed these ornaments best expressed the strong Oriental note in costume. , But this year the white fire of diamonds and the white purity of pearls are deemed all desirable and some wonderful new or naments have been designed especially for first night q opera. Women, with priceless strings of pearls are twist ing them, filet-fashion. In the hair In stead of winding them around the throat. One society woman haa three ropes of pearls, worth in round num bers about 100(M. With her gown of pastel-tinted brocade, touched very slightly with ermine over one shoul der and at the tunic hem, these three ropes of pearls will be worn on the Initial opera night, one pearl string twisted in its wearer's dark hair, an other wound three times about her throat and the third dropping in a deep loop over the front of the bodice. Diamond coiffure bands have spe cially designed clasps into which para dise or cygnet aigrettes may be thrust, and of course every woman possessed of a handsome cygnet aigrette is now treasuring it like pearls themselves, for neither love nor money may smug gle an aigrette past the vigilant cus toms officer now, even If one protests that it was worn out of the country and back again. Footwear for Opera Klgfat. There la a frenzy more than an or dinary fad for slippers laced across the instep with narrow ribbons and these old-fashioned looking slippers, or buskins, as they are called in Paris, will undoubtedly be worn with some opera costumes, although the women of best taste will wear the dainty but toned strap or plain satin slipper, con spicuous only In the exquisite slender ness and prettiness It gives foot and ankle. Waistband Bouquets Popular. Why has the buttonhole decreased In favor and why has the large bouquet taitwi its place? There is -a logical TITE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 2, 1913. 5 - -5 deed, waistlines are entirely out of fashion and any inward curve at this part of the figure makes the silhouette all wrong. The Callot gown pictured here, a model ordered for first night of metropolitan opera in. November, is all soft lines and clinging fabrics an-d Is worn over no corset at all, a girdle of tricot mesh confining the hips. The gown is in tones of Persian blue, white and black and with It are worn black satin button strap slippers and black stockings. reason for this interchange of popular ity. The tailor-made suit Is so precise and severely planned that nothing as frivolous as a boutonniere is permitted for it. And with the flimsy mantelet it is impossible to wear the buttonhole in its usual position. Hence it comes to pass that a large nosegay Is chosen and that it is tucked into the belt, where It not only looks very attractive but draws attention to the natural waist measurements that are now accepted, and to the manner in which the belt is arranged higher in front than at the back. It is only fair that our dresses should Straps Across Instep Are Seasons Fashion t M . i it ', v . A 3 HI Slipper That Makes Moat of Foot. SLIPPERS with straps across the in step are much more fashionable this season than the plain, low opera slipper of kid or satin, and some of the new French slippers are almost too fanciful to be in quite good taste. There is nothing freakish or bizarre, however, about this pretty buttoned slipper for wear with elaborate even ing costumes, and it has the merit of making the foot and the Instep par ticularly dainty and trim something that cannot be said for the clumsy looking laced buskin with ribbons drawn through eyelets. This new buttoned strap slipper has very slen der, distinguished lines, combining the new, long toe and a heel that Is curved Frenchily . without excessive height. The straps which button across the instep curve inward at the center, making the most of a dainty stocking. A little buckle of rhlne stones finishes the s.ipper to perfection, be decked with blossoms, and most cer tainly one of the smartest effects it Is possible to gain with flowers Is that of tucking a particularly beautiful specimen of the rose tribe into the sash, or to wear peonies, which flow ers are very fashionable. ' Other blossoms newly worn are the blue and white campanulas that are now shaking their fairy bells in the garden, and mixed posies of calceo larias, white pinks and pansies are lovely. No flower Js too difficult a subject for the clever makers of blossoms, and as well as wearing artificial flowers real ones are very often seen. But they fade, ala-st very quickly, and It would seem last longer for some people than for others! Green Winter Plants Prove Home Joy Seed of Grape Fruit May Grow Two-Foot-Hish Tree if Planted tn MolKt Karth Wandering; Jew Is Stardy Grower, Too. NEW YORK, Nov. 1. (Special.) The trouble of taking care of Winter plants Is insignificant, com pared with the Inspiration and joy to the woman who loves out of doors In having green, growing things around. ner during the housed-in months. Some plants require constant care and watching, others flourish al most by themselves. One of the easiest indoor plants to rear is Wandering Jew and the clear. almost translucent green of the leaves Is particularly refreshing. Wandering Jew is a sturdy grower, but it requires plenty of light. It does best in sunny rooms, but will keep alive even in a north window. It will take root In bowl of water and shower gracefully over the edge of a wall bracket iver a desk; but planted in earth and kept very wet. Wandering Jew will grow ncmy ano luxuriantly indeed. Ferns planted in low receptacles are graceful and pleasing on dinner table or writing desk, and one famous writer cannot work without this bit of grow ing green under her eyes all the time. Such ferns usually droop and die about six weeks after they, come from the florists, not for lack of water, but be cause the water is applied in the wrong way. irerns snould never be watered from the top. Their nature is to ab sorb moisture from below. They grow, out of doors, in damp places, usually near running water. Every other day the receptacle containing the ferns should be lifted from the jardiniere or basket in which it stands and placed in a basin or bathtub in which the water comes up just high enough to cover the soil In the fern dish. Let the plant stand thus, with its roots In water, for ten- minutes, and then place the dish back in the Jardiniere. Once a week sprinkle the tops of the ferns. A very attractive indoor plant may be obtained at no expense by planting a grape fruit seed in moist earth. The little tree, with glossy green leaves, will grow sturdily and rapidly after It once, gets a good start. One of these grapefruit trees, seen in a New York home the other day, was' two feet high and made a most effective decoration for a hall table. Terra Cotta Colored Stock ings Late Fad Vivid In Shades, the Tangerine Strikes s New Model to Be Worn With Smart. 'New Fall Boots. Long; Silk Gloves Winter Feature. NEW YORK, Nov. 1. (Special.) Tangerine Is the new shade of the moment. Tangerine silk stock ings are displayed in all the stocking departments that attempt to keep up with fads, and one sees these vivid stockings with smart, new. Fall boots when a skirt Is lifted to make stepping into an automobile easier. Tangerine is a bright terra cotta shade with a hint of flame. It is particularly ef fective with black, and sets off to ad vantage a buttoned boot of black pat ent leather with kid top In the new style. Tangerine silk petticoats also peep beneath the hems or show be hind the slashes of black skirts of vel vet, silk, landsdowne or wool woven material. One may achieve an Irreproachable blouse now with three yards of crepe de chine and a yard of fur. The crepe de chine is laid In tiny box pleats at front and back and three box pleats run down the arm to the wrist on each sleeve. The fur Is banded around neck and wrists, a narrow pleating of the crepe de chine standing above the neckband and falling below the wristband. These blouses are smart est when developed in most vivid colors like the new flame-rose, tanger ine, Persian blue and peacock green. Long silk gloves are a feature of Winter dancing apparel. These gloves come in all the delicate shades to match fabric colors and when .drawn off during the dance as Is now the in formal custom they may be rolled into a ball and tucked Into a reticule or an escort's pocket more readily than kid gloves. The wrists of the silk gloves are handsomely embroidered in self color or in harmoniously-contrasting shades, and the heavy silk weave of the glove, combined with the rich em brolderly, make these gloves very dis tinctive. Menus for the Week Tnestter. Cream of celery soup. ' Fricassee of lamb, riced . potatoes. Baked tomatoes. Watercress salad. Fear compote. Coffee. Wednesday. Corn soup, Creole. Clam shortcake, cream, sance. Scalloped celery. Bliced tomato salad. Apple toetty with syrup. Coffee. Thursday. Vegetable Soap. Braised short ribs of beef. Brown potatoes. Squash. Lettuce salad. Grape sponge. Coffee. Friday. Rice taroth. Baked Chinook salmon, browned potato cons Russian vegetable salad. Pumpkin pie. Coffee. Saturday. Fish chowder. Broiled meat cakes. Sweet potatoes. Greens. Apple salad. Blancmange. Coffee. Sunday. Tomato bouillon. Roast beef, horseradish. Brown potatoes. Cauliflower. Chicory and prune salad. Banana trifle. Coffee. Monday. Brown soup. Sliced beef with Yorkshire pudding. Savory rice and peas. Lettuce heart salad. Lemon jelly. Coffee. The Interest of the Game. " (Washington Star.) "What we want," said the patriotic citizen, is a government that will give every man an absolutely equal Bhow." "It can't be arranged," replied Three finger Sam; "anyway, not here in Crlm BOn Gulch. There's no sense in expect ing everybody to have four aces when ft jackpot is opened." SUMPTUOUS WRAP OF LANSDOWNE IS REVELATION WITH FLASHY LINING Some of New Outer Garments for Women Conspicuous for Seemingly Carless Manner of Maki Drapery Dis tinctly Oriental in Suggestion Soft Grays of Moleskin Are Favorites With Persons of Taste. i y '--i , , i I, . pr."H w itf'cawisgyra 3 Kim-'Via'K vxrr-:irr:r Twr-t.vrMs l - p. II P ::rTK-. T I , " " " , EL I 4 jj ' J I -.CV"- r-34 S l ft' s .V&Mi ft 1 n-- THIS sumptuous wrap of lansdowne in the new tangerine shade- an orange-toned terra cotta comes from the hands of Poiret, who may always be relied upon for something new and orlginaL In this instance the new note is the revelation of a bright- colored lining at the front of the gar ment, by the peculiar arrangement of tne sleeve and front drapery. The huge passementerie ornament which catches up the drapery is distinctly Oriental in suggestion. Some of the new wraps apparently are made of one long length of rich material, flung over the figure and caught up here and there In seemingly careless manner but this apparent carelessness is really the perfection of art and skill. Here is a wrap by Mar tial Armand, showing pompadour stripe brocade with lilac clusters on a white and pale lilac ground. In an odd bias TIGHT SCALPS MAKE FOR THIN HEADS OF HAIR Five Minutes of Scalp Massage Every Night Will Show Speedy Results, Say Those Who Know. Does Your Scalp Move? At -X- . ' ' WHEN THK LOCKS FALL OUT. IT Is most distressing to the average woman to find handfuls of her crown of glory snarled In her comb every morning when she arranges her coiffure; but this is a condition apt to occur in Autumn. Most women neglect the hair sadly during the Summer months. Out-of-door occupations give less time for the details of personal grooming than is the case In Winter, when one is housed. Possibly travel ing interferes with the regular sham poo and massage of the hair; possibly a series of visits, during which it is not always convenient to attend to the hair, beyond its becoming arrangement twice a day. Or one may be stopping at a small country boarding house where it is difficult to get plenty of hot water and towels for a comfortanle shampoo. Then there Is the action of the sun, wind and salt water, all or which tend to coarsen the hair and to rob It of Its color and luster. But the greatest trouble of all Is apt to be a tightened scalp. Tight, scalps make more thin heads of hair than all the dandruff and all the neglect In the way of shampooing In the world. Only from a loose and supple scalp will hair grow luxuriantly, and five minutes of scalp massage every nignt, wnen tne hair is let down, will speedily show re sults in the way of live little hairs springing up In the partings and at the temples.. Feel of your scalp with your finger tips. Does it move loosely over the bones of the skull? Can you push it as you can push the skin on the back of the hand about? If it does not, it is too tight for the health of the hair. Massage it faithfully every night until It is loose and supple, using a rotary movement of the two first fingers, or pushing the scalp forward and back and then irom siae to side. G o $ good, hairdresser's and have si grrazTZ. ii il effect, the stripes running obliquely across the figure. The lines through out are exquisitely graceful and there is a border of white tulle draped over silver lace with pearl ornaments. The lovely, soft grays of moleskin, which makes this pelt always a favor ite with women of distinctive taste and refinement, are here carried out not only in the fur itself but In a shimmer ing overdrapery which falls from the shoulders of the wrap to well below the hip. This drapery is of gray chiffon in the moleskin tone with spangles of the same color and as the spangles catch the light they take on the vari ous tones of the mole pelt viewed In dif ferent lights and directions. The wrap accompanies a gown of apple green charmeuse matched by silk gloves em broidered on the long wrists. i T 5 p - -v: . . v s the ends of the hair clipped and singed, and repeat the process in two weeks; then In two weeks again. Sham poo the hair once a month and rinse thoroughly to get the soap out. By unrlstmas the hair should be appre ciably thicker on the head and the ends should have gotten a good start. No hair should come out in the comb and the color and luster should be much improved. ONE DUELIST IS DISABLED French Kdltor and Opponent Keep Up Fencing Eight Rounds. PARIS, Nov. 1. (Special.) Out spoken statements with regard to the habits of naval officers made by the Journalist. M. Rouzier Dorcieres, In a series of articles on the opium traffic published In the "Matin" led to a duel between him and M. Rapuc. a doctor rormeny attached to a colonial regi ment. M. Rouzier Dorcieres, who is notorious as having been concerned In more duels probably than any other man in France, had in his exposure of the prevalence of the drug habit in the .Navy made personal reference to certain officers, and had in return been attacked by M. Rapuo in a Toulon newspaper. The meeting took place on the out skirts of Toulon. In the third assault M. Rapuc touched his opponent in the neck, but himself received a wound in the chest immediately afterward. The swords were struck up, but after a quarter or an hour the fight was continued with the consent of M. Rapuc's second. In the sixth assault M. Rouzier Dorcieres waa wounded in the armpit, but It was not until the eighth round, when his band was x pierced so that he could no longer hold his sword, that the seconds decided that satisfaction had been obtained and the combat was stopped. MARBLE DEPOSIT FOUND Photographs l-om Spitzbergen Show Varieties of Stone. CHRISTIANIA. Nov. 1. (Special.) Mr. Mansrield, head of the Northern Exploration Company's works in Spits bergen, who has just passed through Christiania on his way to England, showed a large collection of colored photographs Of different varieties of marble found in Spitzbcrgen. He said that by employing drilling machines he had proved that solid marble existed at a depth of 75 feet and that the marble is found over a wide expanse of territory. Stealing of Dors. Atchison Globe. It is our theory that no one can steal enousrh dogs to commit prrand larceny. Hair Tinting age You Can Now Instantly Tint Your Hair, Without the Slightest TroiiDle, to Any Shade of Brown (or Black) So That It Cannot Be Detected. Send the Tns; Coupon for Trial Package Enough tor a Thorough Dem onstration. Tint Yonr Hair a Iteautifnl Brown. "Everybody's Doing It." Is your hair gray, streaked or faded or has it a dull aDDearance that vou do not fancy? "Kair Tinting" can now be very suc cessfully accomplished at a small cost in the privacy of your own room. mere is uniy une liming preparation on th market that you can rely upon as being always dependable, and that is Mrs. Potter's Walnut Tint Hair Stain. There is never a failure when this ex cellent preparation is used. No disap pointments, no "fizzles. ' Easy to apply and does not need retouching oftener than once a month at the most. Any shade may be obtained from golden brown to black. All druggists sell Mrs. Potter's Wal nut Tint Hair Stain. The prico is only 1.00, and a bottle should last you a year. A trial package will be mailed (in plain wrapper upon receipt of only 25c with your name and address. Trial packages are not sold at stores. Phone Marshall 15S0. A. DE BLANCHE Ladies' Tailor, Importer. Designer and Maker ot Gowns. Goodwin Corsets. Globe Bnlldlng, 408 Washington St. (5?oM : : I g 5 3 3 I i i .S : : : w 3 la ; 2 5 8 : : ! ! .Sea Z S3 : : : 8 -g S3 1 : : : of 2t; :M ;oii : :fl m m S a" 5 o sf C E g g 1 A.