THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, AUGUST 24, 1913. i HOW TO ACQUIRE POISE AND BEAUTY OF FIGURE IS SHOWN Mile. Pavlowa Tells How to Develop Back and Shoulders Being the Fourth of a Series of Articles by the Famous Russian Dancer Now Running in The Sunday Oregonian svi! y if ' C &r flip f "7 7 X. svrri,r. ' ,' Ty v v? . . ' ' i252S; IA ' .. 4:'. n ljy - :f '? 2 1 V V ZJ , ; V wlU tilt the face toward the celling t , . W - ZA (l2S ' 'f;J f 'T and to the rlsht. At the sanw time the , . : . , X ' k . t fjT VVTi . ? fY- 1 left arm and hand should be carried . . 1 7$&&u' ' ' I A X- f 'T3S?- r" over the head, with the palm down. a. t , . . ' ' '.I "W I V P -tm f V may "e seen by the photogrraph In . " ' i ' , , X, ' i I VH- I - '"U't.vt Po.. 4 on this pa V- V- , ' 'S I I7f L) I '"'.' I Work Before a Mirror. M .! I ' t I 'ml 1 Thla movement as well as the one V ' .' ' - 4 l " 1 Immediately preceding should be per- J f ' 5 II If V mirror because one can observe Just S- ? , t: $ Thl, la the fourth of a series of articles written br the famous Russian dancer, MUle. Psviows, telllns how to be srncerul and beautiful. Pavlowa has been ths dancing Idol of Europe for five yesra. and she has created fully as bl( a sensation In the I'nlted Ststes. In today's article she de scribes exerctaoa for the development of the back and ahouldara. BY MLLE. ASSA PAVLOWA IK THE first three articles of this series we have confined our atten tion to developing; good lines In the torso, the legs and the' arms. No one can gainsay the importance of this and yet. with the demands for decollete cos tumes now quite as popular In Sum mer as during the Winter season the need for a symmetrical back and grace ful shoulders Is self-evident. In point of fact. I know particular women prom inent In European society who consider a "good back" a pre-eminent require ment. What is more, those who haven't one of those backs work very hard in efforts to develop what Is desired. Some folks are born with well cut shoulders and nicely rounded backs; others manage to grow into those pos sessions In the course of time, quite a respectable number Join their sisters through the medium of exercise. Per sonally, I was not fortunate until I commenced to study proper movements that would impart to the upper part of my shoulders that firm plumpness so eagerly sought. And let me state that It was not forthcoming in a moment or a few weeks. I confess that It seems discouraging to prepare to don a low cut gown when one's shoulders are humpy with too much flesh or thin to the point of scrawnineiSB. It takes the pleasure away from the approaching function. . whatever it may be. From my own ex perience, as well as that of other wo men who were not born fortunate in this matter of a lovely back and a fine pair of shoulders, I can unhesitatingly say that perseverance with the correct : exercises will accomplish wonders for those who have a minimum of shapeli ness In these respects. Those who have read the previous articles appearing In this newspaper devoted to cultivating a graceful fig , ure and who have gone faithfully about practising the various exercises I have prescribed, will have succeeded by this time in obtaining a fair amount of bodily endurance. That being the case, I now wish to advise the dally ful filling of the movements devoted to the torso, the legs and the arms1 each In that order. System la Exercises). The aim is to give the body about 10 to 30 minutes of right exertion every day, and w hen this series of articles is completed it will be found wise to take two or three sets of movements for one day and the remainder for the one following. In this manner there is al teration that should bring the best re sults possible. Again, it will afford sufficient variety to hold the interest, an all important factor where exertion Is put forth in search of a definite something. Whether or not other exercises pre cede those for the shoulders and back which are about to be presented, makes no difference, but if that method is adopted it will be found to be a wise procedure. After opening the windows of the room in which the movements are to be practiced and filling the lungs several times with fresh air. the work may then be started. Be sure, however, that a loose robe is worn, that no corset binds the figure and that soft shoes without heels have been donned. Beginning with Exercise 1, stand firmly on the flat of both feet, heels together, body held erect with should ers thrown back easily, without stiff ness of any kind. Extend both arms and hands directly in front slightly below the level of the shoulder line. Carry them back on an even sweep in a physically smart manner, but not too abruptly, and do not permit any mus cular opposition to be exerted. When both arms have reached a point slightly beyond the sides of the body, the move ment is completed as shown in Pose 1 of th- photographs accompanying this article. Extreme care should be maintained to perform this exercise with grace and freedom, for the benefit accrues from the quick repetition of it as many times as can be comfortably performed with out fatigue. Some women can accom plish the movement 60 to 60 times without stopping, but SB is enough at the start. Help will be found if the head Is inclined slightly to one side as the arms pass the body, and it can be moved either to the right or the left, or alternated at the pleasure of who ever is doing the exercise. This particular movement brings into play the muscles on the upper portion of the shoulders the long muscle which gives most of the line and it also develops all the muscles that run on both sides of the torso upon which we depend for easy support of the bod ily carriage. The value of this exer cise will be discovered after a few mo ments of exertion, the sensations In the several parts of the torso indicating clearly what muscles are called into use. In Exercise S a table la necessary. Stand before it in the same ereneral po sition, assumed at the beginning of the preceding exercise, with both hands resting upon the upper portion. Twist the body and left shoulder toward the left, slowly and with a sort of effort like that one uses In the morning while stretching. If you can imagine that you are gathering all the muscles up In a bunch so to speak the muscles on the left side above the waist line, it will assist. Do not raise the' left arm, but merely allow it to follow the body naturally, and turn the head as far to the left as possible. This movement can be performed 10 to a dosen timeB at first, always slow ly, with a great deliberation. After completing the turn to the left in which, please, remember, the neck must also turn repeat the same exer cise in the opposite direction in pre cisely the same general fashion in the first turn to the left. Naturally, in go ing through the movement for the benefit of the right shoulder and side. the body is twisted in that. direction, and the head and neck as well. It will be noticed after a few exer cises of the sort Just described that the shoulders and the neck will tingle. and a feeling of renewed -vitality will ensue throughout the region of the back from the tip of the spine to the small of the back. There is nothing like right exercise to awaken slumber ing muscles that need such exercise for. as I have remarked in a previous arti cle, exercise builds firm flesh for the thin person and tears off fat that is a hindrance to beauty and bodily com fort. Exercises for Grace. I am now about to take up for your consideration two exercises designed expressly to impart grace to the move ment of the shoulders and back, and which will be almost as helpful to an easy use of the arms. Let us begin with Exercise S in this particular set. While standing In a' natural position, with arms and hands at the sides, feet together, raise the arms in a half sweeping motion and bring them al most directly over the face. By noticing carefully the sensation at both shoulder points where the upper arm is Joined to the body you will dis cover that there is a decided action of the muscles. The arms should be par tially curved, and as the hands meet overhead as shown in Pose 3 of the photographs on this page the head may be dropped a trifle and the face elevated, the latter action tending to give slight exercise to the muscles at the base of the neck. Although there Is marked benefit to be derived from this movement, which may be repeated without stopping for from 25 to 60 times, the principal aim should be for grace. Do not worry about the muscular helps to come through the movement, but try to con centrate on the ease with which the arms are handled, and the free move ment of the head and neck. Some women will not experience as much difficulty in performing this ex ercise as 'others, but I am Inclined to think that nearly all. at the early trials. are certain to feel more or less awk ward. One of the reasons for such feeling comes from the fact that as a rule women do not raise their arms above the shoulder line. Aside from adjusting one's hair, I doubt If three women in every 10 give the muscles flo uring in a good, free overhead stretch anything like a fair chance. Therefore It is high time to turn the attention to this Important matter. After finishing with this exercise there remains to be practiced yet an other also expressly worked out to cultivate grace of movement. Assum ing a quiet,- erect bodily position be gin by raising the right arm from the side, turning the palm upwards and dropping the head backwards, which will tilt the face toward the celling and to the right. At the same time the left arm and hand should be carried over the head, with the palm down, as may be seen by the photograph in Pose 4 on this page. Work Before) m Mirror. This movement as well as the one immediately preceding should be per formed before a half or full-length mirror because one can observe Just how successfully each is accomplished. If during early trials there seems to be a degree of uncertainty, or stiffness do not be in the least discouraged. Considerable) practice is necessary to straighten out the kinks In the muscles and to Impart a freedom of gesture and a graceful attitude that are impera tive. . Try this fourth exercise repeatedly, for several minutes, and do not mind if it appears that little satisfactory progress is made. Then go through the same exercise reversed that la, with the left arm elevated in the man ner the right was and the right arm curving over the head which Is thus Inclined to the left. Continue in this fashion for several minutes before fin! ally bringing this series of exercises to a close. Once again I would admonish who ever goes through one set, or more Stand Behind a Table and Twist the Body aad Left "honlder to the Left. Do Kot Raise tbe Left Arm, Bnt Allow It to Follow the Body .NatnmllT, and Tors tbe Head as Far Back aa Possible. (Cepyrigit. 19J3, Max Rablnolf . 2. Mile. Anna Pavlowa. (Copyright, 1013, by Schneider, Berlin.) S. To Impart Grace to the Shoulders and Bark. Stand la a Xatural Position and HaUe the Amu In a Half Sweeping Motion and Brian Them Almost Ulrectly Over the Fnee. (Copyright, 1813, Max Rablnoff.) 4. Ia Another Grace-Cnltlvatlasr Exercise, Raise the Right Arm From the Side, Taralas the Palm Toward the Head and Dropping the Hend Backwards. Which Will Tilt the Fnee Toward, tbe l elllnsr, at the Same Time Carry the Lett Arm Over the Head With the Palm Down. (Conr right, 113, Max Rablnoff.) li. Te Develop) the Shanldera, Extend Both Arms Directly ia Front and Slightly Be low the Shoulders. Thea Move Them Backwards, Oae sa Each Side, to the Position Shown la This Pose. (Copy right, 1S13, Max Rablnoff.) than a set. of these exercises to con clude with a. bath of warm water to be finished with a cold shower If the reaction from the shock is prompt. Then a brisk rubbing with a coarse towel will start the circulation and a 10-mlnute rest on a couch will restore the body to Its normal state,, reinvlg orated. ' I have received several communica tions asking the proper time of the day for these exercises. As I have al ready stated In another article, it all depends upon the physical peculiarities of the person who exercises. For some the morning Is an excellent time, while others find that their vitality Is not up to physical exertion until much later in the day. The best way to discovet the proper hour for exercise is through trial but never exercise until at least an hour and a half after a meal. The next article will give exerelsen for a ahapelr neck. (Copyright. 1913, McClure Newspaper Syndicate.) CHEAP PLACES GAIN BY "WAR" ON GRILLS Gaynor'a Order Already Proves Costly to Big Cafes in New York "The Lure" Is Flay That Needs Censor's Eye, Apparently. N' BY LLOYD F. LONT7RGAN. EW YORK, Aug. 23. (Special.) Have the police a right to close up any business at a certain hour. when there is no state law or city ordi nance to that effect? iayor Gaynor says they have, which Is why the police have been rough housing the various restaurants, and the proprietors of these resorts say to the contrary. Now the matter has gone to the courts, and in tbe course of a year or so there may be a decision on the matter. In tbe meantime the police have won out, for after the warfare at Healy'a, restaurant men believe it is best to bow to the police, even while saying that the bluecoats are acting the parts of oppressors, rather than that of guardians of the law. During the first few days when Hcaly "defied" the police, he bad plenty of customers, who dropped In to see the fun. It rather palled upon them, how ever, when the police used force. It Is not "fun" to be kicked out of a restau rant by a full-grown patrolman, and custom fell off to a decided degree. In addition to this, large quantities of valuable china and glassware were de stroyed nightly, and the loss to Healy became a matter of interest. Cheap Lnnch Rooms Beaeflt. Gaynor'a contention is that every place that sells liquor must close promptly at 1 P. M. Tbe restaurant men allege that so long as they shut up the bar at the specified hour they1 are entitled to run the food end of this business as late or as early as they see fit. The Judges of Special Sessions, a minor tribunal, hold with the restau rant men. The police hold with Mayor Qaynor, for the highly practical reason I that unless they do they will be haled up on charges and lOBe their Jobs. No one can reasonably blame the police. but many persons blame either Oaynor or the restaurant proprietors, depend ing upon with which faction tbey are in sympathy. The Judges of Special Ses sions are particularly exercised. They want to know what good it does them to make decisions if no one pays any attention to them, to which Gaynor practically replies that their idea of law ia foolish, and that the higher courts will overrule them. In the meantime it is practically Im possible to get anything to eat late at night unless one goes to a cheap lunch room, and many night workers are well paid and have discriminating appetites. A number of policemen have been brought up on charges of oppression, assault, etc, and It would not be sur prising if some of them went to Jail because they have obeyed the orders of their superiors. Play Censor Apparent Need. From the way the present theatrical season is starting out. our playhouses need a censor much more than do the moving picture places. The first of tbe season's attractions Is "The Lure," a dainty trifle by George Scarborough, once a newspaper roan, and later a United States Secret Service agent. Compared with It, "The Easiest Way" Is an Elsie book. The theme Is the white slave traffic, and the characters include the mother, the doctor, the girl, the special agent, the madame, the cadet and the other glrL Mother is poor and sick and $100 is needed. Daughter, on her a week in a de partment store, cannot accumulate such an amount. The madame has met ber, in the stores, lures her to the house, where her clothing is taken away and' replaced by a scanty gown, and she Is made a prisoner. The special agent enters the house in search of another glrL and meets mother's daughter with whom he Is in love. Her story con vinces him that she has done no wrong, and he determines to rescue her. Then occurs the "big scene," the fight with the "cadet," in which practically every thing in the house is wrecked. Our reviewer says "The play is a splendid object lesson to parents and their young daughters, and will doubt less serve a good purpose." All the same, it Is a nasty. Indecent exhibition, and if a moving picture along these lines was made, the maker would prob ably go to prison, and it certainly would never pass any of the various censors. Big Episode Overlooked. ' All the newspapers printed long obituaries of General Edward F. Jones, Civil War hero and former Lieutenant, Governor, the man who commanded the Sixth Massachusetts when the first blood of the great war was shed at Baltimore. They all. however, over looked one interesting episode in his life, the disappointed political ambi tion which started him on the down ward financial path. Jones' served as Lieutenant Governor with David B. H11L when the latter was the Democratic boss of the state. At that time Jones was politically pow erful in the Mohawk Valley counties, and It is said that Hill had promised him that he should be given the next nomination for Governor. In the last year of his term Hill was elected United States Senator. Jones expected that Hill would resign as Governor, per mitting Jones to hold office for the better part of the year, from March 4 to December JL Hill was not anxious to have a rival, and feared that if Jones held sway at Albany he might be formidable at tbe next convention, and -Hill' had already made a promise to nominate Roawell P. Flower for Governor. To curb Jones. Hill held on as Governor, explaining that as Con gress did not meet until December his services at Washington were not need ed. Jones protested, but was over ruled. The convention met and named Flower, Jones, who was a candidate In defiance of the organization, receiving only a few scattering votes. His in surgency angered Hill Just the same, and he told his intimates that he would not give Jones the satisfaction of being Governor, even for a day. Then Hill held onto the two offices, and inci dentally the two salaries, until Flower qualified. It was a bitter blow to Jones, and he neglected business for politics, trying vainly to undermine Hill. His efforts did not meet with success, but the resulting neglect of business led to heavy financial losses from which he never recovered. Garden's Pnsalna Evident. ' The passing of Madison Square Gar den is made evident by the announce ment that the National Automobile Show will be staged at the Grand Cen. tral Palace during the week of Jan uary 1 next. It will be under the auspices of the Automobile Chamber of Commerce. The exhibits will occupy four floors in the big building. Automobiles will occupy the first and second floors, and such of tbe third floor as la not needed for the display of cars, while the fourth floor will be devoted to the needs of the Motor and Accessory Association. Financiers show satisfaction in the August dividend checks, which show a marked increase over the amount handed out a year ago. A total of 19,608.908 has been dis bursed by 37 railroad, industrial and public utility corporations. The total payments are $727,353 in excess of those distributed on the same day last year. It is pointed out, however, that these are only a few selected companies. Dur ing the entire month of August about $110,000,000 is scheduled for payment in interest and payment, and no compari sons with last year have been made on this amount. In a number of cases, it Is said, there have been big declines. Still It is best to be cheerful over some things, and Wall Street grasps at any hopeful straws these gloomy days. The New Zealand Farmers' Union asks government aid tor procuring more laborers, more than 6000 workera blng needed. FREE We have a limited supply of the Summer Fashion Book (price 20 cents) which illustrates hundreds of the most beautiful designs for everything your wardrobe may need. While they last we will present a copy free to every woman calling. Every Woman Can be Well Dressed and Save Money by Using Standard Patterns They solve all dressmaking problems. Women who use them once can never be persuaded away from them. Portland's Exclusive Corset Shop 3S1 1-2 Morrison Street ,