THESTODAY OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, AUGUST 10, 1913.
how" women
We Are Going
Back to the
Loose Gowns
of Past Ages
WILL, we 'all bo dressing alike In
1925? M. Leon Bakst says so.
M. Leon is the famous French
artist and originator of the most daring
color schemes. "We're going back to
the Grecian," he declares. Sandals and
the loose-flowing gowns are to be the
thing in times to come. For instance,
the "Balkan blouse" is a prognostl
cator. The "Balkan blouse" Is merely a hint
Df the flowing robes of the future. Their
very looseness is a suggestion that we
are returning to the attire of the ab
origines. The fig leaf? th, no! Not so far as
that with M. Leon. But men and women
are In the era when flowing robes, and
ven samlals, will be the proper thing
in smart attire. But there still will be
color and ornament; jewels have been
the foibles of women from time, imme
morial, and they still will continue
to be. i
Mr. Bakst takes a fling at the Amer
ican fashions, by the way. Especially
he abhors the footwear bo popular with
the women of the Western hemisphere.
He doesn't like the Louis Quinze heel
on a chubby American shoe.
M. Leon says:
"I had half expected to find gorgeous
decorations, touches of wonderful
Bakst-blue, at least, and even that the
artist himself might be clad in gar
ments such as one associates with Rus
sian ballets (for M. Bakst is from Rus
sia). But nothing could have ren less
startling than the mlse en scene of such
marvelous effects as must have been
thought out and realized within these
American designs of color, lines and or
nament. AT, honest," said the pretty
black-eyed telephone operator
In the big private exchange.
"what sort of animals do you think wo
hello girls are? Coming here and ask
ing No. 13 booth, please. No, right over
there, thank you! That's it yes "
and she showed a set of the snowiest
teeth in a delightful smile "asking
me about the romances of the girls, and
what it is to be a successful operator!
"To hear people talk you'd think
we had nothing better to do than tease
little old Cupid, and live fairy tales,
and indulge I once heard George Mun
roe say this in airy per-sl-flage! They
got us all wrong. We're here making
living, or trying to, and Just be
cause we serve the public and act
sweetly, too, it is no reason for imag
ining that we're public property.
e re not flirtiner all the time. evn
though it looks like it. The company
tells us the first thing is to be cour
teous. Always courteous! And we've
got to smile and be polite no matter
what's handed to us. Gee. I'm glad
I've got an agreeable disposition and 1
don't mind looking cheerful. It must
be terrible to be naturally scrappy
an' have to make a hypocrite of your
self." "Ain't Some Men Boobs!"
"Well, as I wan savinir. we have to
smile all the time, and Wire's busy
sir. Pardon me! No, it's busy. But
I have been ringing. Not the opera
tor's fault, sir. Thank you, sir! Never
mind that number, central. Gentle
man doesn't want it!" She patted her
hair as she watched the retreating fig
ure. "Say. wouldn't that make you sick?
,,,J . ami ail.-:.v .
&CC honest," said the pretty I - ' i
ID
ZS&mmJ7SKISX V.-'
' WWT W Be Key
I MESU mi A JSW A
"Women are going In more and more
seriously for physical exercise and
sports, and are entering largely into the
ranks of competition with men. To meet
this new phase a style of dress must be
adopted which will not hamper and im
pede movement but It need not neces
sarily be ugly, unbecoming, or even un.
feminine.
"In 1925 the date of the action of the
new Russian ballet, "Jeux," by Debussy,
Girl Who Gives You "Busy"
Signal Hasn't Time to Flirt
Even I? She Cared to Do So
What I'd like to say to him! Some
of 'em seem to think that all we're
doing Is trying to make them sore.
The boobs! Don't they know we want
'em to get their numbers and get away
as soon as they do themselves?
"But there's not as many grouches
as you'd think. They're pretty fair
as a whole. They seem to have more
patience. But women! The fussiness
of them! Honest, sometimes it's a
wonder when they do get their num
ber that they have enough sense to
talk. They What was that number,
please? Thank you, sir. Tea, it's a nice
day no, I don't mind sitting here. Of
course I live in the city. Oh, that's a
secret! Thanks very kindly, but I can't
go out with strange gentlemen. Tou
see, I've got several husbands and they
might object! There's your number!
Booth No. 3, please!"
"Freaaleaw Are Innumerable.
"What a lot of freshles you men
are! Always joshing to beat the bandl
But I don't mind! Sometimes!" She
smiled bewllderingly. "But once In a
while a man gets real nasty, and that's
the time I smile a smile that Just
shrivels him up. But, say, do you
know. It's funny about most tot you
In
resr
which I have staged women will wear
a pretty, practical costume for their
daily occupations. The Greeks and Ro
mans managed this; to suit their ideas
and conditions men and women dressed
in similar garments, and that, too, was
an age of physical activity and grace.
"I believe that much more might be
done with advantage to suit, different
personalities; that artists and makers
of clothes should combine to improve
fellows that look so nice and decent?
Tou'U flirt with us as If you didn't
mean a thing by It, and yet you're
Just feeling us out to see how far yon
can go. Guess ypu think you're very
clever; well, we know you. You're wel
come!" She was a very pretty girl. How
long did she intend to remain there;
how was It that she had come there
at all?
"Oh, I guess I'll stay here until I'm
married," she said, seriously. "I like
this sort of work well enough, and the
110 comes in very handy. Tou see, I've
get two other sisters and a young
brother, and It's very nice that I can
earn a little money, too. I've been at
It three years now, ever since I was
18, and every week I give $8 to my
mother. It's Just as good being here
as sitting home and doing nothing;
and I'm free in the evenings and have
all the fun I want.
"Tata Ain't So Hard," She Says.
"Is it hard to be a telephone opera
tor?" She smiled pityingly. "There's
nothing to It. First you go to the
company's school and learn the gen
eral hang of the wires, and how and
when to use certain expressions that
925.
No Stockings,
No Waistline;
Comfort Will
note
the taste as well as the appearance of
their 'models,' so that unhappy choice
or raiment should be rarer. With
right understanding of the Influence
and aid of color, line and ornament.
many wonders may be worked.
"For Summer no stockings will be
worn. In Winter or wet weather nous
verronsi With the 1925 dress the waist
line will not be defined, merely guessed
at. The headgear will match the san
dals in color; as for the .hair, each
woman. If she has any perception of the
becoming, or has a reliable coiffeur,
will readily find a pretty personal style.
It is not necessary to nave any partic
ular way of doing the hair; it should be
optional. Those who have no minds of
their own must borrow Ideas from their
neighbors, and try the effect.
"Evening dress Is another story.
When the occupations of the day are
over women no longer compete, 'lutter'
struggle with the men. They then
show tneir charm, their soft sweetness,
and languorous grace, and wear what
meets their beguiling, restful mood.
Each chooses wSI shows off her ape
clal attractions, or helps to conceal lit
tle weaknesses, and so makes a. dainty
feminine picture, not necessarily a mere
paquet de carrions, or a doll."
A great deal may be left in a clever
dressmaker's hands. But she must real,
lee that line, color and ornament are
strong factors, her greatest aids, an
other indispensable quality in every-
thing appertaining to toilette being
freshness. On that Mr. Bakst lays strong
en-ipnasiB, reminding one oz the fresh,
vivid, glowing qualities of color in the
Russian Daiiets. It was all interesting,
the company likes. And they drill
three things Into you: Be courteous,
be accurate and be quick. That's easy
enough, isn't it? Of course one girl can
be a little better than another. She
may be a little faster, and make fewer
mistakes. But if thero are promotions
one of the big causes for It is courtesy
The company's Just dippy for courtesy
I guess they think the example of the
girls will be good - for the public I
really think it is, too.
"Here comes the 6:S0 express. I'll
be rushed now, so you run along and
don't bother me and say, print a few
words about what I told you. That
we're not here for romances or Invita
tions to flirt. You know, we ain't pub
lic property. All right! So long!
Number, please?"
New Turkish Problems
Were the Turkish empire to be re
duced to the land actually Inhabited by
Turks It would be confined to the limits
of the peninsula of Asia Minor. There
are some genuinely Turkish regions in
Macedonia and Thrace, but these are
Irrevocably lost to the Sultan. In Asia
the Turkish empire contains many
heterogeneous elements, some of them
as hostile to Turkish rule as were the
Macedonians.
On most maps Turkey Is represented
as stretching two long thin arms down
each side of the Arabian peninsula, one
along the Red Sea and the other along
the Persian Gulf. The interior of
Arabia is frankly a no man's land,
Turkey being unable to establish even
a semblance of sovereignty. Also, the
sultanate of Oman, at the extreme
southeast, is completely independent of
Turkey. Temen, in the southwest, is
held by the Turks, but It is in almost
constant rebellion.
To the north is Syria, under a loose
government, including the district of
the Lebanon, which is practically inde
pendent. Further north are the Ar
menians, who, much less fortunate than
the Syrians, are held under cruel op
pression. The Kurds, fierce and liberty-loving
mountaineers, preserve a
semblance of loyalty to Turkey because
they are allowed the fullest license.
The tribes of Metsopotamia and of the
Syrian hinterland are practically self
governing, which, means that they are
practically without government.
The Mohammedan Arabs, who with
entire Justice feel themselves superior
to the degenerate descendants of bar
barous Turkish conquerors, offer the
most difficult problem. As a race they
are unquestionably better than the
Turks, though they have put on no
veneer of modern civilization. They
have supplied the Turkish government
with some of its most illustrious dig
nitaries; Mohammed Shevket, who was
recently assassinated, was a full
blooded Arab, and his ability was of
considerable utility In keeping his own
people in submission.
The Armenians and Syrians are
usually unwarlike Christians, though
among the Syrian mountains the Chris
tians are as courageous as their Mo
hammedan neighbors and foes, and
have, through preponderance In num
bers, won for themselves an autono
mous government.
Aside from the little slice of Europe
which is to be left to the Sultan, the
new Turkish empire may be compelled
to fight for all its holdings beyond the
restricted district of Anatolia. A "Tur
key for the Turks" would extend no
further. Beyond lies a Turkey for Ar
menians; Kurds, Syrians and Arabs.
Although Turkey may have to strug
gle to retain thiB great outlying alien
territory, there is little chance that
patriotic rebellion against Ottoman
domination would bring independence.
The European powers would intervene
to prevent the setting up of new
nations. They would either whip the
rebellious provinces back to their
Turkish allegiance, or would appropri
ate the lands for European exploitation.
It largely depends on Turkey's coercive
ability whether her outlying provinces
shall be shorn off one by one. If
she makes headway against the op
pressed peoples she will be permitted
to keep on misgoverning them; if she
shows , indications of helplessness she
will be relieved a she has already been
relieved of Cyprus, Egypt, Tripoli,
Crete, Samos and her European domain.
Is Race Rushing to Decay?
(Continued From Fag 8.)
of diseases such as appendicitis, neur-
insanity, cancer and a certain number
asthenia, etc., which it is stated are in
creasing. It appears characteristic of
the common nlnd that attempts are
usually made to prove the increase of
certain diseases and to infer National
degeneracy therefrom.
But it appears to be forgotten that
other diseases are being wiped out and
no theory of human improvement ap
pears founded on that fact. Changed
conditions cause a readjustment of the
relative proportions of various diseases
to each other but there is no ground
for argument unless it can be shown
that disease as a .whole is more preva
lent and more virulent than in times
past. And this at present requires to
be demonstrated.
Such terrible afflictions as leprosy
and typhus lever have all but disap
peared from civilized countries and
tuberculosis is rapidly diminishing.
Competition in malignant microbes is
diminishing, as the struggle for their
existence is rendered easier those for
merly held in check are now able to
flourish unexpectedly. So, with the
destruction of Infectious diseases, any
one, of necessity, will die of insanity or
cancer. If the recent announcement in
the papers prove true, the latter can
be treated as bacteriological disease.
I doubt if insanity is also not in the
same catergory. It is said cancer i
increasing. The answer to this is that
it is a disease of those that have passed
the prime of life; then, too, those most
liable have some well-defined organla
weakness. Now in the improved hy
gienic condition of humanity the pro
portion of the aged is greatly increas
ing, and, as to organic weakness-
there are people that would be apt to
be carried off by other diseases In times
past whose maladies are now held in
check by modern science.
As to insanity, the above argument
holds equally good. In this case the
increase i3 directly traced to the de
crease of another disease consump
tion. Everyone knows that the feeble
minded are singularly prone to fall vic
tims to it. t Dr. Hunter states "many an
Imbecile owes his existence to the fact
that his parents failed to die of tu
berculosis." Also the standard of san
ity is now far higher than it was for
merly many persons now considered
to be imbecile would then have been re
garded as sane, if erratic
There is certainly no reason what
ever to believe, as Is popularly sup
posed, that the increase in insanity is
due to the stress and complications of
modern life. It is not the active busi
ness man who usually becomes unbal
anced. Indeed, a far greater percent
age of Imbecile cases come from rural
ocalities. Also, acquired insanity is
not inherited, and cannot therefore
operate as a cause of degeneration. A
more plausible factor for degeneration
is inherited insanity of the idiots, im
beciles and others in the ill-defined
category known as feeble-minded.
It is, of course, on account of this
class that -the vastly increasing interest
in eugenics is being taken. Measures
are necessary to prevent the propaga
tion of these unfortunates, many of
whom in the old days would have died
from neglect.
Then we have a wide range of minor
disorders known as 'nerves," hysteria,
neurasthenia, hyper-sensitiveness, etc
it is not easy to find out whether these
cases are increasing or not It must
be remembered that throughout the
Middle Ages "demoniacal" possession
was everywhere common all kinds of
psycho-nervous epidemics such as tar
antism, flagellation, dancing mania, St.
Vitus' dance, etc, were in evidence.
Possibly, however, more nervous weak
ness is now brought on by suggestion
than formerly, which is due to the slow
development of a sixth sense.
Finally, I wish to refer to the open
ing words of this article: "Eyes are
going." Sir J. Tweedy, president of the
Royal College of Surgeons and. of the
Opthainsological Society, states: "I do
not see that there is any evidence, so
far as the eyesight of the population
is concerned, of any physical deteriora
tion of the people." The only sign of
deterioration is from people In rural
districts. But as to teeth, the matter
does not stand so well. There is no
doubt that the teeth of the people have
become worse f late years the cause
is undoubtedly due to the increased use
of soft and "patented" foods and more
sugar than formerly. Metchinkoff ex
presses the opinion that a proper sys
tem of hygiene of the month will do
much toward removing a condition of
things which, however, is not an Indi
cation of degeneracy.
And now with all the cries of the im
pending downfall of the race dinned
in our ears by newspapers and maga
zines, I venture to believe that in this
extraordinary century of science and
invention future generations will find
that one of the most curious phases
was the . prevalent superstition of Im
pending degeneracy- propagated so
flamboyantly throughout the civilized
world. .
Largest Gas Chandeliers.
Indianapolis News.
The four largest gas chandeliers ever
built have been installed in an audi
torium at Atlanta, Ga., each giving 10,-680-candleoower
of liirht from 15 lamps.
Women Do Most of
vA f
RICE milling in Burma, despite the
half century of British occupation,
is carried on today in practically the
same manner as when the Grand Mogul
Jehangir sat on the throne at Delhi and
exacted tribute from the unfortunate
Burmese who for centuries have thrown
off one yoke only to have another
fastened on their necks. In the picture
is shown a typical rice mill of Central
Burma, the fertile valley of the Irra
wady lying between Mandalay and
Assam near the Thibetan border.
onressioils o
(CONTINUED FROM PAGE THREE.)
But apparently I did not. The others 1
were nothing to him, but he did not
give up his flirtations. True, he did
not demand that I give up mine. He
liked me to be popular, and I was popu
lar. But all my popularity was as
nothing to me when the man I loved
did not feel that the woman to whom he
was engaged to be married was an in
terest vital enough to put the thoughts
of all other women out of mind.
He used to get letters from those
other women. And his explanations
were airy enough. Old friends, he'd say,
who had heard of his engagement and
had hastened to send their felicita
tions. Maybe this was true, but he never of
fered to show me any of the letters.
They were more than mere congratu
latory notes. Such volumes I could but.
suBpect held sentimental reminiscences
that he did not want his prospective
wife to see.
I did not want to see them. I hope
I am too honorable to ever want to
read the confidences another woman
may make to my husband, but I at least
expected honesty, straightforward deal
ing with the man whom I loved and
trusted sufficiently to put my future
Into his hands.
This my lieutenant seemed unable to
understand. "All my life," was all the
explanation he gave me, "I have been
friends with women. There were none
of them I cared to marry. You are the
first and only woman I've ever really
loved. Can't you trust me?"
The weeks passed and the situation
did not improve. I have never been
able to understand it. Apparently he
adored me, but I was so far from being
the big interest in his life that I feared
to take my chances.
I broke the engagement, giving some
other reason. I told him I did not love
him enough to feel that It was right to
marry him, and he sadly released me.
He is not a heartbroken man now
any more than he was the day after our
paths parted. He still declares that
I am the only woman he ever loved.
Maybe he thinks so. . But I do not.
Next Comes Preacher.
There are so many. One's path crosses
and recrosses and the moods of the
human heart are as varied as the moods
of the weather.
Now I have come to a young rector.
He came Into my life the next Summer,
when I was done with men, at least
when I thought the sentimental chap
ters of my life book were closed. I was
unhappy and his church work offered
a diversion. We were thrown together
much, and I found him understanding
ana oi rare sympathy.
He knew rny story and when he pro
posed there was nothins- to tell him.
We were very happy for six weeks. I
nad given him a tacit promise that we
were to be married at Christmas. Early
in the Fall I threw myself into his
church work and saw him surrounded
by the adoring women of his congrega
tion.
What I saw made me sick at heart.
I saw how he had been deferred, to and
spoiled until he had become a dMnni.
True, he had never shown this side of
his nature to me, but I watched secret
ly and saw what would be my portion
as his wife.
It is a sad confession to make, but
I saw that the man I loved was at
heart a shameless bully, and that he
cowea the very women of his comrreca
tion. He brooked no suggestion from
mose wnose spiritual example he was
supposed to be. And there was not one
in the lot who could not have given
him an example of patience and loving
kindness and tolerance. I blessed my
stars in jl naa seen mm in his church,
which was his real home, as he was.
For there I got a better picture of
tne real man tnan I ever had as I
measured, mm. up as a lover.
Neither does he know why I made
my sad little confession and gave him
back his ring. I didn't tell him the
whole brutal truth. I couldn't hurt his
vanity by doing so. Besides, I don't
believe the women In his congrega
tion would have forgiven me if I had.
So I simply made as little apology as
possible and told him the fault was
all with me: that I was variable and
aid not know my own silly heart.
M.e is still single and he is still a
bully. I do not regret not marrying
him. The certain end of that romance
would have been destruction of any
love we might once have fancied we
reit.
Rich Widower ' Has Faults.
There was a very rich widower once
Who had two grown sons. And the
sons were flirtatious and very charm
ing. Their father was not. I weighed
my Chances of happiness In that house
hold and decided that it was not a
square deal to the old gentleman. The
sons were not able to take care of a
wife, and I knew their father had no
intention of supporting either of them
with a wife.
Besides, I rather fancy that a woman
who has known love and held a dream
of it in her heart finds it bard to give
up the dream even for -all creature
comforts and the luxuries that mean
so much to many women.
I came very near to love . another
time. He was an artist and struerllnir
I loved his genius. I would have been
willing to starve with him. But I found
out in time that his was not a generous
nature.
By this I do not mean In his attitude
toward me. I found he was little and
petty in his attitude toward life. I
have never been able to feel that money
makes a man generous or the lack of
it makes him mean. Meanness is a lit
tleness of the spirit and is rooted in
something much deeper than actual pos.
sessions.
I could not love a man whose feel
ings were not generous, no matter how
much he might love me. So we parted.
I make these confessions 'humbly.
They sadden me. As I. look back on
my life what I see does not make me!
haDpy. Yet I do not see that I have!
the "Work in Burma
M-Ar-Jf-9
These primitive mills are Invariably
operated by women who laugh and
chatter continually as they work, the
while smoking incredibly large and
black cheroots. A large proportion of
the work requiring only unskilled labor
is performed by women throughout
Burma, while the men are mostly em
ployed as artisans In the various trades.
The Burmese women are usually about
five feet high and are noted beth for
their love of bright-colored clothing
and their cheerful dispositions.
Girl
ummer
been much to blame. For I have held
the woman dream in my heart, the high
hope that I would meet the right man
and be loved by him.
There is nothing I would not give
up for such a one. All my heart should
be his but I do not feel that I am asking-
too much when I demand that the
man shall be worthy of all my devotion
before I give it to him.
He may not have worldly possessions,
but he must have spiritual ideals the
man whose coming I await. He may
not be handsome, but he must be brave
about the real things of life.
Still Waltims; for Ideal.
I look for love and I expect yet to
find it. I know there are men who are
brave and simple, fine and courageous,
and who believe that a woman has
rights the rights of her own soul.
There have been others, I do not
deny. But always the friendship was a
tentative thing to get close enough to
see if that man was the man for whom,
my heart is waiting.
He will come, I feeL The years briny
him closer to me. I do believe that to
each one comes the thing for which he
keeps eager outlook.
"My hand is lonely for your clasping, dear.
My ear tired waiting for your call;
I want your strength to help, your lauca to
cheer; ,
Heart, soul and senses need you. sne and
all.
I droop without your full, frank sympathy.
We ought to be together, you and I."
"We want each other so, to comprehend
The dream, the hope, things planned, or
seen, or wrought;
Companion, comforter and guide and friend.
As much as love asks love does thought
ask thought;
Life ts so short, so fast that lone hours fly.
We ought to be together, you and I."
New Saying of Christ
. Six years ago great interest was
aroused by the discovery in Egypt of
a new Greek manuscript of the gospels.
rivaling In age the oldest texts. The
manuscript formed a complete volume
on velum, ant must have been pre
served, intact in a monastery or a
tomb. It was purchased by C. L. Freer,
a wealthy American, and. the task of
publishing it was Intrusted by him to
Professor H. A. Sanders, ot Michigan
University.
This new manuscript lies at Wash
ington, D. C, a facsimile having, by
Mr. Freer's direction, been presented
to the British Museum, which would
have possessed the original had it not
been that Mr. Freer, being on the spot
with his money in his purse when the
discovery was made, obtained, the cov
eted prize.
The most interesting portion of the
manuscript relates to the gospel of
St. Mark. It contains the appendix
known as the last 12 verses of St. Mark,
which in the revised version are placed
in a position detached from the rest
of the gospel, but inserts in the middle
of these verses certain verses which oc
cur in no other manuscript of the New
Testament, though the authority who
writes the Times article says they were
known' to St. Jerome, who quotes a part
of them.
In the Freer manuscript after verse
14, which says that Jesus upbraided his
disciples for their unbelief, the text,
continues thus:
"And they excused themselves, saying
that this age of lawlessness and un
belief is under Satan, who, through the
agency of unclean spirits suffers not
the true power of God to be appre
hended. For this cause, said they unto
Christ, reveal now at once Thy right
eousness. And Christ said unto them:
The limit of the years of the power of
Satan is (not) fulfilled, but it draweth
near (the text, here and elsewhere, Is
corrupt) ; for the sake of those that
have sinned was I given up unto death,
that they may return unto the truth
and sin no more, but may inherit the
spiritual and Incorruptible glory of
righteousness in heaven. But go ye.
are other variations in the
text of considerable interest. The or
der of the books is Matthew, John.
Luke, Mark. A writer in the Times
holds that the manuscript is not homo
geneous "indeed it is far from being
so." His theory is that it, or an an
cestor of it, must have been copied
from a number of distinct manuscripts
"no doubt papyrus rolls, which,
could not contain more than a single
gospel" which themselves had diverse
textual pedigrees.
The first section of the gospel of St.
John is written in a different hand
from the rest of the manuscript, and
apparently later.
The manuscript dates from the
fourth or fifth century, and is de
scribed as one of the most valuable
and ancient versions of the New Test
ament In Greek.
Professor M. Flinders Petrie, the
groat Egyptologist, who has Just ar
rived in England after six months in
Egypt, said the value of the manu
script would depend upon whether it
was "one of the heretical manuscripts.
doctored to meet the views of one of
the various parties, or a more excel
lent text than any we possess."
"It Is curious," added Professor
Flinders Petrie. "that no two Import
ant early manuscripts go to the same
district or the same church. Thus we
possess the Codex AJexandrinus: the
Greek Church has another, the Roman
Catholic Church the Codex Vaticanus.
and now the Freer manuscript has
gone to the United States to the non
conformists." The revised version of the Bible is
chiefly based on the Codex Vaticanus
and the Codex Sinaiticus; the author
ized version is chiefly based on the
Codex Alexandrinua
V