The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, May 25, 1913, SECTION FIVE, Page 7, Image 65

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    AIRY LACE RUFFLES ON CLASS DAY
FROCKS GIVE NOTE OF DISTINCTION
Tunic of Machine Embroidered Batiste Should Fall Over Flounced Skirt Panel-Like Vines of Pattern Emphasize
Slender Lines of Figure Few Accessories Fit Dress for Day or Evening Wear.
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NEW YORK, May !4. (Special.)
Lace is well used this season In
combination with the handsome
machine embroideries so fashionable.
The class day frock pictured Is esyen
tiallr rirltsb In Its simplicity of line,
while the expenstre materials make it
vry distinguished Indeed. The tunic of
maealne embroidered batiste falls over
a I Me flounced skirt and the arrange
ment cf the embroidered pattern In
panel-like vines emphasized the slender
lines of the figure. Sections of the rich
eyelet-embroidered border on the deep
batiste flouncing which forms the tunic,
arc arranged In girdle effect over the
bodice of lace and net. Buttoned white
burkskln boots and a white straw hat
frilled with pleated lace complete, the
summery effect of .the gown. ;
According to the accessories worn
with It. 'this pretty frock becomes an
afternoon costume suitable for campus
the commencement dance. Over a slip
of thin white India silk Is dropped
white net and the foot of the skirt Is
trimmed to the knee with tiny pleated
lace frills describing rounded scallops,
and lace Insertions in deep vandyked
points. The bodice Is of net overdraped
with a bertha of lace. The soft sash of
pink ribbon with a frlrise of little ilink
roses Is exceedingly girlish. A bis leg
horn hat trimmed with small pink
flowers and black velvet ribbon accom-
affalrs or a dainty evening gown for panles this costume.
COMMENCEMENT AND CLASS -DAY
FROCKS KEEP GRADUATES-TO-BE BUSY
NEW TORK, May it. (Special.)
"With the first week In June all
the pretty nirls between seven
teen and two or three and twenty be
come vitally Interested In commence
ment matters. One may be going to
jrraduate herself, or may be planning
to witness tne graduation oi some
mirer or unjit relative of the rternrr
sex: and lucky the maid who has
propped up against the silver photo
graph frame on her dresser, a magic
invitation to the delights of graduation
week at Annapolis. West Toint. Yale
or one of the other colleges scattered
over the land.
Wherever the occasion is cele-
hrattxt there will be a round or res
tive dnlncs glee club concerts,
lor ar.d Junior proms, athletic meets,
frat receptions and the culminating
events of class day and commence
ment day; there will be hosts of pretty
girls In the prettiest and smartest rai
ment that fond parents can afford;
there will be attendant hosts of ad
miring youths with appreciative eyes
for stunningly attired beauty: and
thr -will be the inimitable back
ground of campus grass and leafy June
trees, than which there could be no
better setting for fetching Summer
frocks.
So every girl who sets blithely forth
with her chaperone to attend com
mencement week will take with her a
trunk full of pretty wearables, and
woe to the express company which In
advertently allows one of those thou
sands of important trunks to go astray
next month.
White Rule for Graduation Day.
There Is an unwritten law that
white shall be worn by the girl grad
uate. It Is the symbol of her youth
and of the hljrh ideals with which she
leaves her Alma Mater to take up a
woman's place In the world. And this
white graduating costume marks an
epoch in the girl's life. Just as does
the white wedding robe, which proba
bly looms fascinatingly in the per
spective of her dreams while her white
graduating gown is being tried on.
This year net will go Into at least
half the commencement gowns and its
airy daintiness, in combination with
lace and the sheer, soft machine em
broideries which are so fashionable,
will go far toward making this year's
graduating costumes the loveliest ever
seen. These pretty net frocks are
usually dropped over a second layer
of net In the form of a straight little
slip; and through the double layer of
net the petticoat flounce of machine
embroidered flouncing shows faintly.
Or there may be a slip of fine white
batiste trimmed with pleated frills of
scalloped batiste set on under a ribbon-run
beading.
Handsome graduating gowns are
mounted on silk thin white India or
Chinese s'lk being used, or a very thin,
soft messaline. Anything like ostenta
tion is sedulously avoided in the young
girl's "commencement costume, and sat
ins, brocaded and heavy laces have no
place thereon.
Five Dollar Graduating Frocks.
Many of the high schools encourage
extreme economy In the selection of
the graduating dresses and frequently
a senior class decides by unanimous
vote that -the frocks worn on com
mencement day shall not exceed five
dollars in price and shall be made by
the hands of the prospective wearers.
Now, as every woman familiar with
home dressmaking knows, an extremely
pretty white frock may be gotten up
for five dollars, provided the sewing
Is done at home and there is no charge
for a dressmaker's services.
Sheer, fine batiste in 42-inch width
may be had for about 35 cents the
yard; excellent imitation Val. lace costs
not more than a dollar for a dozen
yards and If ono keeps an eye on the
white sales, beautiful machine em
broidered flounclngs and bandings may
be picked up at surprisingly little
prices. As for the fashionable net. It
Is excessively wide and not at all ex
pensive, and all that a net gown re
quires to make it adorable Is a-plenty
of tucking, shirring and pleated ruf
fling. But the five-dollar commencement
frock does not appeal to the youthful
daughter of a multi-millionaire, who is
to take her diploma at a fashionable
finishing school. Her white costume
will be correctly simple and girlish in
conception, but It may very possibly
come from Paris and it will certainly
be as distinguished and exquisite as
skilled hands and unspared expense
can make it. A most lovely graduat
ing frock for a young girl graduating
next month at a fashionable school In
Washington is Just being completed.
White washable net forms" the basis
of the gown and underneath will be
worn a slip of net on which are bands
of Mechlin lace from hem to hip, a
group of pintucks being set between
each lace band.
Outer Frock Failed Itrto Belt.
The outer frock is slightly fulled
into . the belt, but is narrow, at
the foot, two frills of pleated net,
each four ' inches wide, being set
on the skirt. one at the edge,
the other ten inches above. Just above
the knee is set on a much deeper
flounce of net with a three-quarter
Inch heading at the top. This flounce
Is shirred on two cords and the .cords,
drawn up, hold skirt and flounce close
ly in at the knees.
A sash of white ribbon covers the
cording, a soft bow falling at one side
over the skirt. The bodice is shirred,
half way up, and a three-quarter-inch
heading rises over a round yoke of Mech
lin lace, drawn up tucker fashion on
a narrow white ribbon. The cording
which shirs the bodice is covered by
tiny white- chiffon roses set close to
gether. A shash of white satin ribbon,
tied at one side finishes this charming
frock and by the bye, it Is the excep
tional graduating frock this year that
has not a shash around the waist. After
the commencement occasion blue, pink
or pale yellow shashes will be substi
tuted for the white one and the dainty
frock will -perhaps also be supplied
with thin silk slips In pale pink, blue
or yellow.
Though all white'is the rule for the
graduating costumes, on class day, the
campus will be gay with color, and
hats and parsols will add their quota
to the fascinating effect- The flow
ered crepes will predominate on class
day If one may be guided by the
whispered plans of the girls and the
dressmakers: and picture hats of
hemp, leghorn or pleated lace and net,
with long ribbon streamers, will ac
company the dainty Dolly Varden
frocks. White buckskin footwear, in
the form of buttoned boots, buttoned
oxfords or Colonial pumps with cov
ered heels, will accompany all afternoon-
costumes of this sort.
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BATTLEMENT FICHU IS
APPROVED BY FASHION
Linen Collar and Jabot, With Sharp-Toothed Edges, in Various Embroid
ered Edging, Rules.
EW YORK. May 24. (Special.)
The battlement fichu Is now the
proper thing and the linen collar
and Jabot with a sharp-toothed edge
rules In fashion. Sometimes rne battle
ments are har.d-buttonholed all around
and sometimes they are msMe of fine
machine embroidered edging which
comes in such patterns In a variety of
effects. Embroidery-trimmed neckwear
if the embroidery is fine and distinct
ive in character Is now much more
fashionable than lace-sarnished models,
and embroidery collars Just off the
white tone and In creamy and pale
ecru tints are especially exclusive in
character.
Graceful collars and Jabots have been
made from machine-embroidered hand
kerchief lawn flouncing. The square
tabs which form the battlement effect
were made by snipping inch-and-a-half
slashes in the material an inch-and-a-half
apart and then hemming by hand
around the slashes; the hem being as
narrow as possible and 150 cotton be
ing used to make it. A flouncing with
a fine flower pattern was selected and
the slashes arranged to come near the
top of the embroidered desisn so that
the main portion of collar and Jabot are
of plain handkerchief lawn.
The Jabot was made of two strips of
the battlemented lawn, pleated finely
and mitred to a point at the bottom;
and Joined down the center with seam
beading. The collar was also mitred
at either side of the back, to make the
tmlirht strin fit In collar fashion
around the neck. The collar had long
nolnto over the shoulders
straight across the
mitred points.
and ran
back between the
Cost of Women's Dress.
London Chronicle.
. One of the greatest changes noted by
Lady Dorothy NevlII In the course of
her long life was "the vast increase of
extravagance as regards ladies' dress."
When Lady Dorothy "came out," the
father allowed her 45 a year. Her
mother spent 300 a year on dress and
personal expenses, and this "was then
considered very ample for the wife of
a rich -peer. I fear tnat t3Uu wouio. in
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Battlemeata Appear In Reckwear
Architecture.
a great many cases De Deiow ratner
than above the correct figure now."
Fur Is used on the edges of trans
parent gold woven gauze.
- .
Even the fashionable small girl
wears the itussian Diouse eugea wim
fur.
will give more "real" service and
satisfaction than the "ordinary kind"
and "cost no more" than the glove
represented as "just as good."
"KAISER" Silk Gloves are not the outcome
of "claims" or "arguments," but solely the
result of a lifetime of striving for the attain
ment of an ideal, the achievement of which has
not been hampered by restrictions of cost or
time. K '.
The guarantee you receive with
gloves, sold without the maker's
name, rarely ever goes back any
further than the clerk who sold
the .goods.
Every pair of "KAYSER" Silk Gloves con
tains a guarantee ticket both the glove and the
ticket bear the name " KAYSER." Look
for it it is assurance of quality, fit and value
and is there for your protection.
Short Silk Gloves, 50c, 75c, $1, $1.25, $1.50
Long Silk Gloves, 75c, $1, $1.25, $1.50, $2
Julius Kayser & Co., Makers ,
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PRINTED CHIFFON MAKES
MODISH EVENING SCARF
Wide-Brimmed Picture Hat Swathed in Same Material Gives Striking
Effect Style Tips Tell of Parasol and Bathing Suit Fancies.
EW TORK, May 24. (Special.)
Evening scarves of printed chif
fon are captivating additions to
the lingerie frock of machine em
broidery and lace; and when there is
also a wide-brimmed picture hat
swathed with' the scarf material, one
has a summer evening restaurant out
fit beyond compare. These new print
ed chiffon scarfs come In delectable
colorings strawberry pink, absinthe
green, orange and black, soft old blue,
ashes of roses, and blue-vlolet: and
the chiffon lining and hem of the
scarf are usually of pale gray or some
other Indeterminate hue that softens
the effect of the printed pattern. A
scarf of this sort, just from Paris, has,
Instead of the usual hem, a double
frill of the printed chiffons, narrowly
hemmed; and enough of the printed
chiffon has been secured to swathe
the crown of a wide brimmed leghorn
hat, and also to add a shirred facing
under the brim.
Large motifs of machine embroid
ery, set into the material of net and
lace frocks, produce a very rich effect
of contrast. These motifs are called
lozenges, and so on, according to their
shape and they are to be had In al
most -any shape with a finished edge
so that one has only to applique them
with hand stitches to the net. and
then clip away the material beneath,
several of these embroidery motifs
grouped skillfully make a very hand
some trimming for the front of a bod
ice; and sometimes segments of lace
or pin tucking are Inserted here and
there to further enrich the effect.
...
There is one unalterable law In
the ethics of dress; and that Is that
the parasol must harmonize with the
gown. Every woman may have one
or maybe two parasols a summer: but
only the occasional woman can afford
a parasol to match every costume. So
it behooves the average woman to
plan well her summer outfit, making
certain that the one, or the two, pars
sols nhe may afford, are going to fit
in successfully with her various color
schemes. It Is usually wisest" to select
three colors and stick to them; In this
way mistakes are less apt to be made,
lime, Simone, the famous French act
ress, never deviates' from hr color
schemes of green, white, black and
blue and her costumes are marvels ol
beauty and harmony.
Some of the prettiest new bathing
suits are made of lansdowne a silk
and worsted material which is .lus
trous and silky in texture and which
is a bit less clinging, when wet, than
drdinary Batin. The ultra smart swim
ming suit has a very short skirt below
which show plainly the full knickers,
reaching Just to the knee. Sometimes
the upper part of the suit is cut like
a little boy's Russian blouse and con
fined by a wide patent leather belt,
fastened loosely sround the fiprtire.
r i tlvV dnrncs-gie; rlali T concerts, sen- there -will be the Inimitable back- a rich yeer. ireartnat woum ... ,tur.
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