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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 25, 1913)
AIRY LACE RUFFLES ON CLASS DAY FROCKS GIVE NOTE OF DISTINCTION Tunic of Machine Embroidered Batiste Should Fall Over Flounced Skirt Panel-Like Vines of Pattern Emphasize Slender Lines of Figure Few Accessories Fit Dress for Day or Evening Wear. : "J I . : ! j ; 'P& . ' xi t " vfevc j $ .-.v r - . r-v..-,-. -.J, Vi i . I 1 ; - - V 1 .,.. T- :l IM f . - I- :1 1 - - - ' V- t-J J ' . - ' 1; ! - - : - rt- i - ?;- x i k r - --I . J , .-i '-v r 'J ' f v- - " 1 i M i hi - ' i- t , 1 I NEW YORK, May !4. (Special.) Lace is well used this season In combination with the handsome machine embroideries so fashionable. The class day frock pictured Is esyen tiallr rirltsb In Its simplicity of line, while the expenstre materials make it vry distinguished Indeed. The tunic of maealne embroidered batiste falls over a I Me flounced skirt and the arrange ment cf the embroidered pattern In panel-like vines emphasized the slender lines of the figure. Sections of the rich eyelet-embroidered border on the deep batiste flouncing which forms the tunic, arc arranged In girdle effect over the bodice of lace and net. Buttoned white burkskln boots and a white straw hat frilled with pleated lace complete, the summery effect of .the gown. ; According to the accessories worn with It. 'this pretty frock becomes an afternoon costume suitable for campus the commencement dance. Over a slip of thin white India silk Is dropped white net and the foot of the skirt Is trimmed to the knee with tiny pleated lace frills describing rounded scallops, and lace Insertions in deep vandyked points. The bodice Is of net overdraped with a bertha of lace. The soft sash of pink ribbon with a frlrise of little ilink roses Is exceedingly girlish. A bis leg horn hat trimmed with small pink flowers and black velvet ribbon accom- affalrs or a dainty evening gown for panles this costume. COMMENCEMENT AND CLASS -DAY FROCKS KEEP GRADUATES-TO-BE BUSY NEW TORK, May it. (Special.) "With the first week In June all the pretty nirls between seven teen and two or three and twenty be come vitally Interested In commence ment matters. One may be going to jrraduate herself, or may be planning to witness tne graduation oi some mirer or unjit relative of the rternrr sex: and lucky the maid who has propped up against the silver photo graph frame on her dresser, a magic invitation to the delights of graduation week at Annapolis. West Toint. Yale or one of the other colleges scattered over the land. Wherever the occasion is cele- hrattxt there will be a round or res tive dnlncs glee club concerts, lor ar.d Junior proms, athletic meets, frat receptions and the culminating events of class day and commence ment day; there will be hosts of pretty girls In the prettiest and smartest rai ment that fond parents can afford; there will be attendant hosts of ad miring youths with appreciative eyes for stunningly attired beauty: and thr -will be the inimitable back ground of campus grass and leafy June trees, than which there could be no better setting for fetching Summer frocks. So every girl who sets blithely forth with her chaperone to attend com mencement week will take with her a trunk full of pretty wearables, and woe to the express company which In advertently allows one of those thou sands of important trunks to go astray next month. White Rule for Graduation Day. There Is an unwritten law that white shall be worn by the girl grad uate. It Is the symbol of her youth and of the hljrh ideals with which she leaves her Alma Mater to take up a woman's place In the world. And this white graduating costume marks an epoch in the girl's life. Just as does the white wedding robe, which proba bly looms fascinatingly in the per spective of her dreams while her white graduating gown is being tried on. This year net will go Into at least half the commencement gowns and its airy daintiness, in combination with lace and the sheer, soft machine em broideries which are so fashionable, will go far toward making this year's graduating costumes the loveliest ever seen. These pretty net frocks are usually dropped over a second layer of net In the form of a straight little slip; and through the double layer of net the petticoat flounce of machine embroidered flouncing shows faintly. Or there may be a slip of fine white batiste trimmed with pleated frills of scalloped batiste set on under a ribbon-run beading. Handsome graduating gowns are mounted on silk thin white India or Chinese s'lk being used, or a very thin, soft messaline. Anything like ostenta tion is sedulously avoided in the young girl's "commencement costume, and sat ins, brocaded and heavy laces have no place thereon. Five Dollar Graduating Frocks. Many of the high schools encourage extreme economy In the selection of the graduating dresses and frequently a senior class decides by unanimous vote that -the frocks worn on com mencement day shall not exceed five dollars in price and shall be made by the hands of the prospective wearers. Now, as every woman familiar with home dressmaking knows, an extremely pretty white frock may be gotten up for five dollars, provided the sewing Is done at home and there is no charge for a dressmaker's services. Sheer, fine batiste in 42-inch width may be had for about 35 cents the yard; excellent imitation Val. lace costs not more than a dollar for a dozen yards and If ono keeps an eye on the white sales, beautiful machine em broidered flounclngs and bandings may be picked up at surprisingly little prices. As for the fashionable net. It Is excessively wide and not at all ex pensive, and all that a net gown re quires to make it adorable Is a-plenty of tucking, shirring and pleated ruf fling. But the five-dollar commencement frock does not appeal to the youthful daughter of a multi-millionaire, who is to take her diploma at a fashionable finishing school. Her white costume will be correctly simple and girlish in conception, but It may very possibly come from Paris and it will certainly be as distinguished and exquisite as skilled hands and unspared expense can make it. A most lovely graduat ing frock for a young girl graduating next month at a fashionable school In Washington is Just being completed. White washable net forms" the basis of the gown and underneath will be worn a slip of net on which are bands of Mechlin lace from hem to hip, a group of pintucks being set between each lace band. Outer Frock Failed Itrto Belt. The outer frock is slightly fulled into . the belt, but is narrow, at the foot, two frills of pleated net, each four ' inches wide, being set on the skirt. one at the edge, the other ten inches above. Just above the knee is set on a much deeper flounce of net with a three-quarter Inch heading at the top. This flounce Is shirred on two cords and the .cords, drawn up, hold skirt and flounce close ly in at the knees. A sash of white ribbon covers the cording, a soft bow falling at one side over the skirt. The bodice is shirred, half way up, and a three-quarter-inch heading rises over a round yoke of Mech lin lace, drawn up tucker fashion on a narrow white ribbon. The cording which shirs the bodice is covered by tiny white- chiffon roses set close to gether. A shash of white satin ribbon, tied at one side finishes this charming frock and by the bye, it Is the excep tional graduating frock this year that has not a shash around the waist. After the commencement occasion blue, pink or pale yellow shashes will be substi tuted for the white one and the dainty frock will -perhaps also be supplied with thin silk slips In pale pink, blue or yellow. Though all white'is the rule for the graduating costumes, on class day, the campus will be gay with color, and hats and parsols will add their quota to the fascinating effect- The flow ered crepes will predominate on class day If one may be guided by the whispered plans of the girls and the dressmakers: and picture hats of hemp, leghorn or pleated lace and net, with long ribbon streamers, will ac company the dainty Dolly Varden frocks. White buckskin footwear, in the form of buttoned boots, buttoned oxfords or Colonial pumps with cov ered heels, will accompany all afternoon- costumes of this sort. Ii " ' 1 1$ fy-. mar. BATTLEMENT FICHU IS APPROVED BY FASHION Linen Collar and Jabot, With Sharp-Toothed Edges, in Various Embroid ered Edging, Rules. EW YORK. May 24. (Special.) The battlement fichu Is now the proper thing and the linen collar and Jabot with a sharp-toothed edge rules In fashion. Sometimes rne battle ments are har.d-buttonholed all around and sometimes they are msMe of fine machine embroidered edging which comes in such patterns In a variety of effects. Embroidery-trimmed neckwear if the embroidery is fine and distinct ive in character Is now much more fashionable than lace-sarnished models, and embroidery collars Just off the white tone and In creamy and pale ecru tints are especially exclusive in character. Graceful collars and Jabots have been made from machine-embroidered hand kerchief lawn flouncing. The square tabs which form the battlement effect were made by snipping inch-and-a-half slashes in the material an inch-and-a-half apart and then hemming by hand around the slashes; the hem being as narrow as possible and 150 cotton be ing used to make it. A flouncing with a fine flower pattern was selected and the slashes arranged to come near the top of the embroidered desisn so that the main portion of collar and Jabot are of plain handkerchief lawn. The Jabot was made of two strips of the battlemented lawn, pleated finely and mitred to a point at the bottom; and Joined down the center with seam beading. The collar was also mitred at either side of the back, to make the tmlirht strin fit In collar fashion around the neck. The collar had long nolnto over the shoulders straight across the mitred points. and ran back between the Cost of Women's Dress. London Chronicle. . One of the greatest changes noted by Lady Dorothy NevlII In the course of her long life was "the vast increase of extravagance as regards ladies' dress." When Lady Dorothy "came out," the father allowed her 45 a year. Her mother spent 300 a year on dress and personal expenses, and this "was then considered very ample for the wife of a rich -peer. I fear tnat t3Uu wouio. in r.. i A r , - I i . &f jess, '"v If - - I t ' -f if rs&l -s a6 - r - -si t Battlemeata Appear In Reckwear I Battlemeata Appear In Reckwear Architecture. a great many cases De Deiow ratner than above the correct figure now." Fur Is used on the edges of trans parent gold woven gauze. - . Even the fashionable small girl wears the itussian Diouse eugea wim fur. will give more "real" service and satisfaction than the "ordinary kind" and "cost no more" than the glove represented as "just as good." "KAISER" Silk Gloves are not the outcome of "claims" or "arguments," but solely the result of a lifetime of striving for the attain ment of an ideal, the achievement of which has not been hampered by restrictions of cost or time. K '. The guarantee you receive with gloves, sold without the maker's name, rarely ever goes back any further than the clerk who sold the .goods. Every pair of "KAYSER" Silk Gloves con tains a guarantee ticket both the glove and the ticket bear the name " KAYSER." Look for it it is assurance of quality, fit and value and is there for your protection. Short Silk Gloves, 50c, 75c, $1, $1.25, $1.50 Long Silk Gloves, 75c, $1, $1.25, $1.50, $2 Julius Kayser & Co., Makers , :3 Si h2 A-3 New York i PRINTED CHIFFON MAKES MODISH EVENING SCARF Wide-Brimmed Picture Hat Swathed in Same Material Gives Striking Effect Style Tips Tell of Parasol and Bathing Suit Fancies. EW TORK, May 24. (Special.) Evening scarves of printed chif fon are captivating additions to the lingerie frock of machine em broidery and lace; and when there is also a wide-brimmed picture hat swathed with' the scarf material, one has a summer evening restaurant out fit beyond compare. These new print ed chiffon scarfs come In delectable colorings strawberry pink, absinthe green, orange and black, soft old blue, ashes of roses, and blue-vlolet: and the chiffon lining and hem of the scarf are usually of pale gray or some other Indeterminate hue that softens the effect of the printed pattern. A scarf of this sort, just from Paris, has, Instead of the usual hem, a double frill of the printed chiffons, narrowly hemmed; and enough of the printed chiffon has been secured to swathe the crown of a wide brimmed leghorn hat, and also to add a shirred facing under the brim. Large motifs of machine embroid ery, set into the material of net and lace frocks, produce a very rich effect of contrast. These motifs are called lozenges, and so on, according to their shape and they are to be had In al most -any shape with a finished edge so that one has only to applique them with hand stitches to the net. and then clip away the material beneath, several of these embroidery motifs grouped skillfully make a very hand some trimming for the front of a bod ice; and sometimes segments of lace or pin tucking are Inserted here and there to further enrich the effect. ... There is one unalterable law In the ethics of dress; and that Is that the parasol must harmonize with the gown. Every woman may have one or maybe two parasols a summer: but only the occasional woman can afford a parasol to match every costume. So it behooves the average woman to plan well her summer outfit, making certain that the one, or the two, pars sols nhe may afford, are going to fit in successfully with her various color schemes. It Is usually wisest" to select three colors and stick to them; In this way mistakes are less apt to be made, lime, Simone, the famous French act ress, never deviates' from hr color schemes of green, white, black and blue and her costumes are marvels ol beauty and harmony. Some of the prettiest new bathing suits are made of lansdowne a silk and worsted material which is .lus trous and silky in texture and which is a bit less clinging, when wet, than drdinary Batin. The ultra smart swim ming suit has a very short skirt below which show plainly the full knickers, reaching Just to the knee. Sometimes the upper part of the suit is cut like a little boy's Russian blouse and con fined by a wide patent leather belt, fastened loosely sround the fiprtire. r i tlvV dnrncs-gie; rlali T concerts, sen- there -will be the Inimitable back- a rich yeer. ireartnat woum ... ,tur. .II- , , . I IIU..N J.. III HI III I I I I I II II I - t, j yeMfWSffaWpg- J'JW.llli.HV'-7r-)- vJ'i, i 1 I'm i-r- ii - - - - .-..v. II n il ki-.m - I tv!.r;. JiJJ-I W5v v- j: v w m mi WfW r .... ,.T .v -.. thirtv vears. steadilv erowinsr in popularity and influence, and when such a vast number of women declare they owe their very lives to it, is it not reasonable to believe that it is an article of great merit?, . . We challenge the world to show any other one remedy for a special class of disease which has attained such an enormous demand and maintained it for so many years as has IS Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound A Woman's Medicine for Woman's Ills. Tf ic on LnAcf trtVrl snd tin rftmedv. of unauestionable curative value, made from Native Roots and Herbs. It contains nn normtiVci nr harmful drills, and complies with all conditions of the Pure Food and Drugs Law. ' All sick women should note these facts, and placing all possible prejudices aside, should realize the truthfulness of these statements, and when assailed with any of the numerous illnesses peculiar to their sex, should at least give Lydia L. Pinkhams Vegetable Compound a fair trial A .HANDSOME REWARD WILL BE GIVEN to any person who will prove that any of our testimonial letters constantly being published in the daily newspapers are not genuine " and truthful, or that any of these women were paid in any way to give their testimonials or that the letters were published without their ic.. i -11 h nrfrfn! letters did not come to us entirely unsolicited. THE LYDIA E. PINKHAM MEDICINE CO., Lynn, Mass. V: fVI I1IKWIVM V mf " " - mi jin aayn-ii '?. 1; iwifiniil 11 ii
