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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 11, 1913)
TTIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND. MAY 11, 1913. MOORISH ARCH SUGGESTIONS NOW, FASHIONABLE IN PARIS COSTUMES Combine of WMt. ind Tan Axe Considered Most Adtaole for " M roMr Linen on White Ratine with Buttoned White Boots and Panama HV . 1 . ' --nj r " " . i if liifc, - - Vv -1 li HWi'"WVWlf,''W-! '-? i-r! .v Y'Vk 1 I. if r t J I tbe frock remains wnite, or creamy tone. ' . Sash Color mponini. The most delicate sash tints are seen; palest turquoise Diue. silver mm buff and flesh pink being the favor ites. Black velvet sashes are also very chic, though they more often adorn the less formal type 01 wnne -.i -j 4nr- nrAlnarv wear. On sucn a frock, worn in the street or a public conveyance, the pastel colored sash is not conslderea grooa Bulgarian sashes are perfectly correct, n. mnr informal type of lingerie costume is built of cotton crepe, cotton voile or one of the novelty white cot ton weaves like Harmonica yoho, has a raised thread In the weave which gives a broken stripe eiiecw barred voile or hsk .i !. uaint. old-tlmey riowerea crepes c especially popular . for this type or frock ana are ...- --- tunics or little coats of ratine match ing the dominant color In the flowered pattern. White cotton crepe embroid - j i. Raiicnn colors with a knotted sash of bright-toned silk to match also makes a modlsn ana attractive vt. of this character. Linen maintains its hold on feminine fancy, for no fabric is so satisfactory .ii.arnim1 Summer wear. White and colored linens are combined effec tively and also white linen aim " mbroidery. Aiacnine emuruiuc. ens are a dii eipensivo, handsome gowns. . - -x -y-J V7 jr.Z2Z-S2 j;RV5ZC.Z''WGgz.0'"- , NEW YORK. May 10. (Special.) An example of the effectiveness of sheer materials in combination with washable net is instanced in a Crlstlane frock in which the trimmings carry out the Moorish arch sugges tion now fashionable In Paris. In the skirt arches of plntucked voile rise on a yoke of machine embroidered ba tiste; and lower down near the hem arches of net rise on the voile. The same trimming idea is carried out on the bodice and a touch of color Is in troduced by the sash of robins egg blue silk. A big black bat and but- toned white buckskin boots complete the costume. The underfrock of heavy Venetian lace Is the striking feature of this lovely lingerie 'dress for late after noon and evening wear. Over the lace foundation are draped sections cut from an embroidered pattern robe with a bold yet simple machine design on sheer cotton crepe. The embroidered drapery ia so arranged as to cover the front and back of the lace foundation, leaving the sleeves and sides uncovered. Frills of pink chiffon edge the sleeves and the girdle is of shirred 1 pink liberty silk. Buttoned oxfords of white kid. worn with white silk stockings, match the dainty dress. , The combination of tan and white 1 i,,-. .,unt for all-around Summe wear, and while cool and comfortable, a frock of the thin ecru stuff Is also less likely to soil easily tnan pure win us. mort nstnme is of string colored linen machine embroidered in white, and the odd sectional cut of the bodice is most Interesting. Each overlapping section Is piped with white and the embroidered linen is mounted on a skirt of white ratine. Buttoned white boots and a white Panama hat trimmed witK white and violet flowers add much chic to the costume. HEAVY EMBROIDERY MAY BE SET CREAMY LINGERIE MORE EXCLUSIVE THAN BLEACHEDWHITE Sheer Batiste, With Lace and Embroidery Bandings and Flounces, Combine in Lovely Midsummer Costume. . Modish White Frock Has Practical Features. Questions and Answers BY LILIAN TINGLE. PORTLAND. Or.. April 21. Kindly give recipe for uncooaea irun , "i. t ror same. POSSIBLY the following is tne Kina of thing you mean. The proportions o ho varied to taste, but the amounts of dried fruits and nuts should be about equal: Fruit Cake Pass through tne i" half pound each seeaec ..i.i.. sultanas, flzs and stoned dates. Mix with an equal weight oi cnopp. ftv one-half pound each, blanched almonds, walnuts, pecana Brazil or peanuts. Kneaa wen iob'. and pack into an oiled bread pan - or mold, using a weignt to press ture solid. When Arm unmold and slice. Do not eat too much, as it is an ex- t.m1r IT TIP PT trated food. If FO" wish an icing, you may use sifted con- f.ntioner'1. sugar and add. drop oy orup, nough cream or fruit Juice to give spreading" consistency. . wh. Aorll 29. Will you undiv ive some recipes ir y -- fhuba'rb, either alone or la comoinai.ion t.1.- ii.n a rood combination: Rhubarb Conserve One quart rhu barb (wiped if young, or strung t .ui - ntA mn ii ciclco. vup , . V .In.lK. pineapple (or equivalent " , i. in dire: two oranges, the J el- low part grated (very U"ly). the pulp skinned and broken In pieces, the Juice 01 one lemon. v rAtirin nuuuu chopped almonds, i-ut irun a the Juice. Then stir well and ii nn thlrk or about three- fourths hour, stirring frequently. Put in . . . ia m nntoa niore laiviiiK a the nre. Put up in Jelly glasses with paraline. The rapid cooking keeps the rnior liirht. If a dark color Is pre ferred, cook more slowly and use wai nuts in place of almonds. i,hrh mnrmalade with oranges- One pound line cut rhubarb, three large oranges. Pare oft the yellow i the orange and cut in fine shreds. Cook until tender. Drain and place In cold water. Put the pulp (from which skin and seeds are removed) with the rhu barb and welsh together. Allow an equal weight of sugar. Cook the rhu barb, orange pulp and shreds of peel until reduced aDOUt one-nan.. nar and cook until It "firms" on a i' NEW YORIC May 10. (Special) Never was a season when the little white frock." owing its distinction to freshness and simplicity, was at more of a disadvantage. No body dreams of wearing such a frock, these days, except around the house of a morning. The lingerie costume that enpears abroad Is a marvelous concoc tion, fearfully and wonderfully vvtto. . gether In the estimation of the baffled home dressmaker and bespeaking Parts. If not in an actual tag decorated with the name of a French couturier. . iMit in its design. Its lines and Its cunning combination of materials. mlng. Plntucked bands of net or n't puffings are set between embroidery insertions: flounces of net 'all softly beneath tunics of allover embroidery, whole tunics of net veil frocks made of embroidery: and scalloped and em broidered net in combination with lacy St. Gall embroidery are especially chic Wherever ones embroidery trimming elves out a medallion of tucked net may be set In, and vice versa: motifs, medallions, bands and lozenges of rich embroidery on every cotton woven i ma terial and on sheer handkerchief linen, are obtainable for the Intricate trim ming of elaborate lingerie frocks: and flouncinps may be obtained In various ldths for tunics, wnoie " Th.ro in a deceltiui simplicity uvuM - - . nrra.nge- f h. Bummerv creations cal- fasnionaoie t" BIT 113 w - - . . . culated to mislead the unsophisticat ed In sartorial matters but that it la I no easy thing to make out of sheer, flimsy material, a scant, clinging cos tume that shall have not only lines and grace, but also airiness, the experi enced dressmaker well knows. ir such a gown Is not Just right, it is hopelessly skimpy and amateurish, whereas almost any woman can tosh ion the sort of Summer dress thaf was worn in the good old days when a baby waist with full sleeves was attached to a ruffled skirt by a ribbon sash. The ruffled skirt was worn over a flounced petticoat and It mattered not whether the lower edge flared five, lx or 10 inches out from the feet. Blavt f Flare Ralnoua. Now the least hint of a flare will ut terly ruin the modern frock of sheer embroidery and lace. The .skirt must fitted with the nicety of a tailored eult. yet present an artful appearance of summery airiness: and the shoulder lines of the bodice must melt into the sleeve lines with perfect and exquisite KrThore are two sorts of lingerie frock now: the sheer, lacy affair which is . f.t occasion at country -..K .ntins. rarden parties, veran da dinners and the like: and the less diaphanous frock of tub material, also white, which may be worn in the street, at the beach, or even on a suburban train without offense to good form, frni-ka have no place in England where tailored wear la the only correct form of dress for traveling and shop ping and regulation evening gowns are donned at the dinner hour. But the torrid climate of American cities dur ing the Summer monins "' thifii with a shred of wool In It impos slble and there-are days when even thin silk cannot be endured. Hence the rice of the lingerie or tub frock of white fabric to Its high place of favor among American women. Kmbrnlderr Tftrows lt Relief. The airy type of lingerie gown this year is built mainly of handsome ma-v,i- .,ntrntdrv in combination with the sheerest lace, or white wash net which of course serves to """" handsome embroidery pattern into -.u.r Thin cotton crepes are also used and the softest, sheerest white batiste and organdies; but net seems to be the favorite ground mate rial; as embroidery is the favorite trlm- ments. Skirt Raffle I'pslde Down. Th old-time dressmaker would be aghast at the topsy-turvy way or at tachlng skirt flounces tnis year. Eaclr- flounce Increases In width as It rises above the next below, so that the skirt really flares toward the hip instead of the other way round. This is, of courso. to effect the new silhouette wide Just above the knees and tapering to noth ing, or next to nothing, at the feet. Of course, with these filmy, narrow skirts the daintiest footwear is required, else the feet appear clumsy and out of pro portion. The low-heeled pump and walking boot so fashionable with the tailored suit Just now, are not pleasing with the lingerie gown, and the. feet must be clad in buckled white Colonial pumps, buttoned oxfords with high Spanish heels or the conventional white buttoned qoot which Is always correct and most becoming to the foot. Colored sashes are to be worn with thin white frocks, almost Invariably says Fashion; but colored underslips are being drooped, the sash lending the dominant color note of the costume; a note repeated In parasol and hat while SLENDER ANKLES MAY BE RETAINED BY WOMEN Use of Buttoned Boots for Street Wear in Summer Suggested as Precau tionary Measure. NEW YORK. May 3. fcpecuu. There are women whose slender ness of ankle and wrist remain un changed no matter how much avoirdu pois the rest of the ngure u " a, years advance, dui me woman finds difficulty in keeping her ankles trim after 30 especially In the Summer time when the nign-ouiioneu boot Is exchanged for low-cut slippers and pumps. If low footwear Is worn continuously' through the Summer it la found that buttoned boots donned in the Autumn pinch cruelly unless the buttons are moved. As the ankle, spread because of Its unconflnement during the Summer, recedes in sUe, the boot becomes loose and another entire change of the buttons Is neces- This trouble may he obviated if the buttoned boot is worn a least part of the time through the Summer, and as such boots are now considered best form for street wear with formal cos tumes, a pair of dainty patent leather boots with buttoned tops of suede or cloth will not only assist in keeping the ankles trim, but will complete one's Summer wardrobe satisfactorily. The white buckskin buttoned boots, worn with white tailored costumes, are smart and attractive in appearance and are comfortable even on the warmest days. Bueh boots should always -be worn" by the women whose ankles are Inclined to spread In tbe Summer, pumps and slippers being reserved for plaxxa or driving use. when the weight it ' it ;J ' 1 Mil Irt Latent la Footwear, of the body is not thrown continually on the feet. The ankles of the woman who has been a good dancer In youth seldom grow clumsy as years advance, for the firmly knit leg muscles allow little opportunity for a deposit of fat Ris ing and falling on the toe,s 60 times night and morning win neip to nameu ih. anklea and keep them more slen der, and so will walking with the toe persistently placed on me erouuu fore the heeL sugar and cook cold plate. Cold-water canned rhubarb cut tne rhubarb in neat pieces and pack into sterilized Jars. Fill to overflowing w t h boiled and cooled water. Fasten lids closely and store in a cool dark place. When wanted for use. cook the rhu barb as if It were fresh. Rhubarb may also be canned by the "open pan method, or may be cooked in the Jar (in a boiler or steamer) like berries. The pink rhubarb cooked very slowly with dried apples (so as to extract the Juice of both) gives a good Jelly If the Juice Is drained and treated in the ordinary way for Jelly making. A strip or two of lemon rind or a bit of ginger varies the flavor. I have to thank Mrs. A. D. W. for her kind note, releasing me from the re sponsibility of a recipe which wouldn't work and which w.as not from this column. I hope you have had final suc cess with the revised recipe. Portland. Or.. April 29. Kinflly te'.l how to can asparagus withouheathur. I do not know any satisfactory meth od for canning asparagus whiiuul heating. T..inn ry Aorii 29. Your section of The Oregonian has been very helpful to Hi. WnnM vou kindly rive a recipe for in next Sunday s Oregonian, ret the fresh dandelion bl-Th?nkln6 ?,., tnr nr. kindness. MRS. H. K. H. Dandelion Wine No. I ix pounus ...o.. It oranees. 12 gallons water, one-half yeast cane, tour iu pi.no dandelion petals. Boil the flowers, water and yellow part oi tne unmsc rind one-half hour. Strain over the sugar and add the orange Juice. When iv.wrm add the yeast, worked until liquefied with one or two teaspoons sugar. Let stano. one ui iv cording to the weather, then place in a stone crocK or woooen c, -.i wnrklne ia over. May be used in two or three months, but is better if kept longer. , rleiion Wine No. 2 Use equal measures water and dandelion petals Ihn water DOllinEl uvcr mo Fin als and let stand (under a cloth or hlankut) three days. Stir occasionally. c.in a nri mure. For every gaiion ih r-in and Juice of a lemon and of an orange, one incn u.j ei"s. otwi XV. sounds sugar. Boil together and let ferment. Put in a cask the sec Ha v .nd bottle after three months. As you sec from tne aouvo rcupra ".dandelion wine" may vary cuns.ucr ablv in proportions. eun your own taste, using the above suggestions. waterman. Or.. April 28. Will you h.m rilatracted would-ba cook? -v.. m. rmiihlH were over when I sot a candy thermometer, but they seem to bo !," banning, so will yo . tell - iurar. 3 tablespoons chocolate, butter size an era. enoush milk to moisten) turns out when cold like the most wretcnea mass of fudge when cooked to H20 degrees? And "hen cooked to 230 degrees (thread) it Is ...vu Won 1 vou also tell me If an eg, make, any difference in the num ber of degrees It should reach? I want It t?2my (thourh. of course .ou know how it should De, . T -yjri .V... . rr. used to obtain it. I shall great- i .nnrerlata your help. K. w. r. t. i.ttina- vour mixture cool before you beat it, and do not beat It too long If you use an egg. cook the syrup to the same temperature, and pour on the beaten egg. slowly, while hot, beat ing until the desired consistency Is ob tained. Hanaung as .v..K. ...... u important in sugar wont. I must ask other correspondents to wait until next ween lor tneir repneo. Colored Barrettes and Pins, Cincinnati Tribune. i,, o stviea of rhinestone orna himitef. hair ornaments, and w .1.. Inst.an of being In tortoise or amber are made of light transparent r". a mitlon In tones of blue. .r..n. ate The effect is UlCUI.o d . beautiful. EW YORK, May 10. (Special.) The lingerie dress in a creamy tone is a bit more exclusive in character than the ordinary tub model of bleached white. One lovely mia- Summer costume Js of sheer batiste, laca and embroidery banding Is dropped over a slip of allover lace to which are attached two lace flounces. The fichu bodice is of deep lace flouncing, onset by a collar of machine embroidery all in the delicate creamy tone wiuuii is brought out charmingly by a satin sash of flesh-colored satin. A rose flowered parasol aaas coior mamn.- tion and buttoned boots of white buck skin give the short, girlish costume correctness. ...... - Though cool and Summery in char acter, a frock that will find favor is not too airy to serve for street wear in town on hot Summer afternoons. It 13 built of harmonica striped voile, a raised thread in the weave giving the broken-stripe effect. The skirt with its three tiers of ungathered flounces is very smart, and the upper flounce is slightly wider than those beneath to give the new silhouette. A fitted yoke over the hips prevents a clumsy line at this point and the black velvet sash tied at the front is the very latest whim of fashion. Buttoned boots of white buckskin match the Summery costume. Summer Women Should Travel "light" Mohair Ideal for Sight-Seelns; Suit, -White. Three-Qnarter Coat, Silk Blouses and Washable Boots Serviceable. violet, forget-me-not, or other mall flower. If a simple initial is nsed. it will bea great saving of labor and ex- pense to use the Initials cut from dis carded handkerchiefs, as they are al most as good as ew. . . f.nAti NEW YORK, May iu. vnpct.a... The woman whose Summer plans will keep her Journeying about from place to place will need to provide a different outfit from the woman who tn. Tins., the warm season in one particular spot.' Everything but necessities must be banished from the luggage of the traveler, for tne oniy way to enjoy a lengthy trip is 'to travel light," as woodsmen say. uuij the woman who has strugg.ea - nititude of small belongings at every packing and unpacking of her trunk, knows what a trial to the soul they an he: and the less one has to nun about, of a sartorial nature, the more freedom will the mind have to enjoy and remember. Linen is cool and delightful to wear ih Summer, but It is a nuis...- the traveler because it must be so fre quently pressed. Mohair is an ideal material for the sightseeing suit or frock: and there should be an alter- . .. uv fnr dinner nate irocn ui mm, -------- wear These irocKs, msemo. -three-quarter topcoat and a practical tailored suit accompanied by two. or three silk blouses win oe enuus.. a trip through Europe. Two petticoats of thin habutai sun, wmtu obtained in colors as well as the fa miliar white, will serve tor u4y wc., and the tub petticoat w.m em broidery flounce, wnicn every simply must don sometimes for the sake of Its dainty femininity, may be folded awav in the steamer trunk along with a negligee of soft, thin silk. Too many hats are an abomination to the traveler. It Is wisest to have only one really smart though not very large hat, and two or three fresh face veils. Whenever one's envlron- o,i! It. this smart hat may n replaced by a soft outing hat of Panama, easily carried, folded up, in .,. aiittc.ase. The tailored suit should have a com fortably short skirt and with it may be worn low-neeiea duuis ui m able tan leather . which is ideal for ......lino- alnce such boots may be. wiped clean with sponge and ordinary soap and water w.movn. ...j.j w or luster. The "Way To Clean Matting. Exchange. A broom is not good for matting, and neither Is the frequent use of a wet cloth The carpet sweeper, used across the grain, is better, but the vacuum cleaner is best of all. The hearth brush Is a life preserver to matting, and a ..v.. .a v.t- to the housekeeper. It raises little dust, keeps the matting and the corners in proper not roughen or Injure the matting's surface. This brush may be washed without injury if quickly dried. Dainty Marks for Ilngerle. rindnnatl Tribune. girl should have a particular i. ,. h.r lingerie, which should on all her belongings. It may t. i ,or.ne-ram. initial in design, or avnriu flower, auoh as a daisy. TVT?ikinc the Hair Grow, and 15 . Other Beauty Secrets By Miss Valeska Suratt MISS VALi.Stv.lL SURATT. Miss Suratt Is Famous as the Self -Made Beauty of the American Stage. appeared. The cream will not sro hair on the face. Keep the cream in affair-tight Jar or bottle. MISS G. T. R. I have tried many blood cleansers, but my mixture of sarsene is my old stand-by. It has a verv prompt and thorough effect. Dissolve 12 ounces of granulated sugar In one-half pint of water, and add one ounce of sarsene and mix the whole together thoroughly, then add more water to make a pint. Sarsene ia a liauid which you can get at the drugstore by the ounce. Get it In the raKe one ui- twv l-.lr.ka Suratt Is Known ma . "..! nlli,gr.. i .. . 4 c YvhO " . , . l : l ....... a nr woman on toe - - teaspoontuis oi m. iuii . does not have to use switches, wool four times a day, with a little water puffs, turbans, braids, or oiw .i uco..cv,. ,,,, terfua-es dressing; trr . - glvea tbe reason wny. FIDELIA. S. This leaves the sKin as MiK-Tvn hair grow was for a long beautiful as marble. Every spot, all Sr.af a problem to me as muddiness. freckles and liver spots dis- tlme as great a ProDlem , appear quickly. I am never without it is today to thousands of women Jt r m armg f There wre days when thick hair wouio neck an(J snouiders. i ara proud of the come out on como or u. uu... - reauit. , . haldness would soon result. L,et hitlf a pint of water come almost A. t in,, Derlmentlng I came to to a boil. Add two tablespoonfuls of After long experimenm.s elvcerine Keen stirring while adding two inevitable ."V"6 5 & ounce of Kunul it is all dis must have nourishment to keep it in solved Then le u cool u the cream good condition, when Nature refuses to , too thick to pour easily from a hot live if and the hair-roots must be u n, j down a little with more f flowed to breathe dirt and scurf ac- ie in n t cream will be white Emulate-on the scalp and no soap can an satiny. Hold a wet, hot towel to remove it.. Pandruti re-n - tne face several times .o .e .. - Then wipe off with a soft dry Tha. onuiv ocrain and let it dry nr? the result of my conclusions. on r the face. Repeat this again at xhe hair neeaa tu iu...s nave zunui.c - antiseptic nourisher and a shampoo that is not a soap, but a remover of r r. H i"If T will give these two formulas here The hafr-growins formula: MRS. S. J. Hair on th upper lip. here. ino f . hptween thQ evebrows, under the arms Mix half a Pint of alcohol with half between t,, on the wnlch u a pint of water. W tn s ao . diafif?uring to so many women, can be ounce of -bett1a;un0',lll 1 ready to removed almost magically. I will not oughly. and then it will be reaay to anything but the use. If you prefer, you v1": ?oiiowing. It Is the only safe depila- ported bay rum in'tead i)f o t1he0wact ory I know of. Get an ounce of siin- and alcohol. The beta-qulnol you can y solution. This you can get eit at almost any . drugstore for not pie HrlII;.tor. for fl. Antilv It wllh beSstaredriookrfifeless, begins to fall out. . lace. Th.i-A is a formula woitu v J . " ciotn. more m" "",, "; - , the the tlnger lips to tne supernuous nan. should be applied very freely to the j the nalr moiBt wltn ,t or tw scalp after brushing it generously tor Keep mlnutes untu )t has been dls. a few minutes all over. Kub the tonic Then w wUh a dan thr?in5sn'This forced the hair to grow cloth and wash the sKln. ?i:.-..iow and stoDS hair falling. For ?he shampoo use eggol exclusively, which any good druggist shou d be able to supply you for 2:. cents. I shampoo the hair regularly once a Wee- l( It K PENELOPE Ton say you are 25 and look like 40. Use the following wrink'e formula faithfully and you will soon look like 20. This is no ex aggeration. A trial will Prove it. I have never known it to fall. Pur half a pint of hot water In a. bowl ana place the bowl in a pan of water over SOPHIA This is an absolute eradf cator of blackheads. First wash tho face with hot water and soap. Then sprinkle some neroxln generously upon a sponge made wet with hot water. Then rub well for a few minutes on the parts of the skin which are af fected with blackheads. You should be able to secure the neroxln at any drug gist's for 50 cents. W H T1ST You should certainly regain a slow fire. To th.s fdd wo un , bugt devel0pment or obtain of eptol. Stir until it Is dissolved ana hav(j ever na)1 it In a nalr starts to cream. Then remoye from cold water dlssolve two ounces the fire; slowly add two tablespoon uetone and nalf a cllp ot Berar. 11 fuls of glycerine and continue to stir together. Of this, take two until it is cold. Eptol may be obtained teaspoonfuls three or four tlme9 B day for no more than BO cents at any g v wineglass of water after your drugstore. s cream hon!d bo ap- meala The ruetone will cost you (1 fuDbVfnfo theerakln unMl it at the drugstore.-Adv.
