THE STJXD AY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND. FEBRUARY 9, 1913.
FRUIT BOUQUET AS ADORNMENT FOR
CORSAGE IS LATEST PARISIAN SECRET
Crab Apples Immensely Chic Blackberries and Currants Also Popular, but Cluster of Cherries Reigns as Favorite.
Of Flower Decorations, Single Red Bose Rules on Smart Wraps in New York.
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rid of. and would Mrs. Swanton
please hurry over and get It, because
she didn't have much time to waste.
The humane society is willing and
anxious to gret in touch with these
rases and will send for animals or
taKe care of them when they are
brought to their headquarter!.
We are all familiar with the tyoe
or woman who makes 41 silken cushion
for her cat and then forgets to feed
It for several days at a time, and the
man who tires of his, dog and so de
liberately loses it somewhere on the
street. There have been any number
or cases In Oregon where visitors to
the beach in Summer took cats along
and then cruelly left them to starve
the w Inter when they returned to
town. In several instances they even
forgot and' left the cats shut up In
their cottages, and were mildly sur
prised to find that the poor beasts had
starved long before their return the
next year.
Children's Cruelty Told.
"I really believe that hunger is the
worst pain that an animal can ex
perience," said Mrs. Swanton, "and so
very few of us realise it. I would
rather do away with all pur pets than
to let them live and be hungry. I be
lieve in compulsory education in the
schools because, well I'll tell you a
story it's not a pretty one. but it's
typical. Last year I caught some
youngsters picking out the eyes of
robins. I ve seen them torture dogs
ana cats, too, and its not done from
any deep-ground hatred of the animal
or the bird and its kind, but because
their lives are lived on a plane that Is
alien and unnatural.
"If these youngsters are not edu
cated they will grow up callous and
indifferent to human distress as well
as that of animals. Eventually they
will become criminals, committing
crimes without reason and thus adding
to the burden or society. . w e wouldn t
need reform schools, in my opinion.
it we taugnt our boys aud girls
little more kindness."
Lethal Chamber Established.
It is hard to chronicle briefly what
Mrs. Swanton has done and what she
is doing and how she does it. because
she does so many little deeds that help,
every day of every year. Among thi
reforms she has been most prominent
in working and In helping to
bring about is the establishment of the
lethal chamber in the dog pound, by
which the beasties are more humanely
done away with than by the old awk
ward method, she lias aided in estab
lishing a refuge home for cats, and
hopes soon to have the slippery streets
sanded, so that the horses will not
slip and fall In wet weather.
For a number of years Mrs. Swan-
ton lived in Alaska, and ever since
she first saw a dog race there she has
worked for their abolishment. She has
established humane societies in sev
eral towns where they were needed
badly. There are few people in our
busy and commrclal world who work
so consistently and persistently at a
labor of love as Mrs. Swanton.
A manufactured interest has no stav
lng quality, but her work is not a fad
it Is the kind of work that holds
throughout a lifetime and Is handed
down to the next generation to take
up and carry on.
ORIENTAL TURBAN WITH "NEEDLE"
ORNAMENT PROVING POPULAR TODAY
Faris Creation Is Indian Princess, So Called Because Its Lines Suggest Craped Oriental Headgear Vegetable
' Feathers on .Some Spring Eats in 1913 Will Win Approval From Members of Audubon Society.
I v X- iff'' v s i
Menus for One
Week
m a EAV YORK, Feb. S. (Special.)
IV Exactly the right touch of color
to complete a costume in sub
Uued tones isgiven by the brilliant
flower tucked against girdle or cor
sage, and dressmakers have been quick
to take advantage of this value in
mode that originated purely from"
desire for decoration. Not infrequently
a whole gown is built around the cen
tral Idea of one vlvld-hued corsage
Mower which suggests the color scheme.
For instance, one may see a cluster of
purple silk violets and behold in fancy
those violets posed against a dancing
frock of shimmering, pale pink chif
fon: or a gorgeous red velvet rose may
suggest the fascination of red roses
and black Chantilly lace; or at the
sight of a white camelia set amidst
green leaves the vision will conjure up
a white crepe de chine creation em
bellished by the camellia, and per
haps a chaste string of pearls.
The corsage flower has become an
established feature now of the feminine
wardrobe, and at the counters where
these trifles are sold are really mar
velous offerings in the line of fabric
flowers, some true to nature and oth
ers frankly bizarre In their freakish
smartness. The purple-' silk and satin
violets maintain their place in favor
season in and season out. and these
violets are to be had in such natural
effect that at a little distance it Is
hard to tell them from the real blos
soms, especially since the clever flower-makers
know how to spray them
with perfume that Increases the illu
slon; or, if perfume Is not sprayed over
the flowers, sometimes tiny sachets
are sewed to the stems, under the
leaves.
Single Rose Is Smart.
A corsage bouquet of violets made
of twisted purple satin ribbon is pic
tured. At the center of the cluster Is
a pale pink rose, half opened also
made of satin ribbon; and the dainty
corsage nosegay is tacked by green
velvet leaves and silver-roll wrapped
stems, shower ends of pale violet rib
bon dangling from the stems In the
fashion favored Just now.
This violet and rose bouquet Is in
tended for evening wear against light
and dainty frocks. Just now the smart
flower for the street is the single rose.
either white or deep red. Standing the
oiner aiternoon in the foyer of a New
York theater, the scribe counted so
many flaming red roses pinned to furs
and coats that it almost seemed a dele
gation decorated with emblematic col
ors must be attending the matinee. But
when one stepped Inside the theater not
a red rose was visible: all had been
removed with the furs and wraps, which
were tucked away under the seats or
spread across their owners' laps.
Noting the numbers of red and white
corsage flowers worn now, one might
say that the lorKs and Lancastrians
were again having a merry conflict;
but the Lancastrians are a bit in the
lead, for the red rose seems to have
the pronounced favor at the moment.
FTult Banquets Real Secret.
These Jeep-colored roses have re
placed In favor the nosegays of varie
gated small flowers which were so
fashionable at the commencement of
tlie season: and even more fashionable
than the roses though only the exclu
sive know the Paris secret as yet
are fruit bouquets. This sounds, a bit
suggestive of a kitchen. cook-book, but
the modish corsage bouquet is actually
made of fruit. Small apples of the
crabapple type aro immensely chic;
blackberries are favored, currants are
smiled upon by fashion; but the special
favorite is the bunch of cherries tucl'.ed
against the coat front.
. Two new Paris ornaments for cor
sage and coiffure are pictured. Tne
flowers are made of black gauze and
are wired and bordered at the edges
of the petals with tiny rhinestones,
rhinestones also forming the center of
the blossom. . The delicate and skillful
workmanship required to make such a
flower may be Imagined, and the. fin
ished effect Is exquisitely beautiful.
The sash, coiffure ornament and
corsage flower will make a dainty ad
dition to the simple little dancing frock
worn by a young girl at a Valentine
cotillion; and one debutante who has
sent out Invitations for a Valentine
luncheon is planning to present each
guest with a souvenir in the shape of
a heart-shaped box containing a sash
and ornaments like these pictured here.
The sash is made of very wide Pom
padour ribbon with, a blurred pattern
in soft tones or rose pink and pale
lilac on a white ground, the pompadour
design with its characteristic fine lines
of black being set between borders of
pale blue satin-faced ribbon. The pic
ture shows how the ribbons are formed
into a full chou with one larger locp
as a background, and this loop appears
to have, been made by drawing up one
end of the sash much shorter than the
other.
The coiffure band is of twisted and
knotted pale blue satin - ribbon, on I
which rhinestones are sewed, the bow
knot with its heart-shaped loops being!
' Tuesday.
x Bed bean sout.
Nut and rice loaf with macedome of
vegeinoies.
Lettuce and apple salad.
Chocolate pudding.
Coffee.
Wednesday.
"Clear vegetable soup.
Pot roast of beef. Brown potatoes.
Braised cabbage.
Orange salad with nut and fig loaf.
Coffee.
. Thursday.
Potato soup.
Sliced beef in Italian spaghetti.
Cabbage and pimento salad.
Apple Betty.
Coffee..
Friday.
Cream of beet aoim
Fried or baked smelts. Vlnagrette sauce.
Browned potato balls.
BuasiRn vegetable salad.
Date - pudding.
1 Coffee.
Saturday.
Corn soud.
Brown lamb fricassee, in casserole.
Potato crust.
Stuffed beet salad:
Lemon Jelly.
Coffee.
Sunday.
"Vermicelli soup.
Roast beef. Yorkshire pudding
Brown potatoes. Cauliflower.
Chicory sauce.
Pineapple trefle.
I Coffee.
Monday.
Soublse soup.
Reheated roast beef. Horseradish.
Brown parsnips and potato cakes.
Lettuce salad.
(Canned) loganberry shortcake.
Coffee.
EW YORK, Feb. 8. (Special.)
This new hat is called In Faris the
Indian Princess turban, because
its lines suggest the draped Oriental
headgear, and the upstanding orna
ment at the front sugrgests the "needle
ornament which is a distinct Oriental
feature. The model picture is of blue
mixed straw with trimmings of blue
silk and a white wing: "stick-up"
banded with blue. The turban accom
panies a traveling1 suit or gray boucte
material, trimmed with blue moire silk,
a blouse of white machine embroidered
crepe, and buttoned boots of the new
washable tan leather.
A new hat-feather has come to town,
a graceful affair made of vegetable
fiber Instead of bird plumage and cal
culated to win Instant approval from
the members of the Audubon Society.
This smart little Spring hat with a
tam crown of black hemp above a roll,
ing brim of velvet. Is trimmed' with
these vegetable fiber feathers and a
bow of white picot ribbon, the twin
feathers emanating from a flat, pleated
bow of the ribbon.
"AEROPLANE HATS" ONE OF NEWEST
SECRETS OF HEADGEAR FOR SPRING
Striking Feature of Millinery Themes Is Elongated Shapes, Smart hut Uncomfortahle "Mercury" Wings Seem
to Be Fancy That Will Be Popular Indian Needle Chapeau Is Advance Messenger of Easter Modes.
N"
Divinity Fudge.
PORTLAND WOMAN AIDS
ANIMALS IN DISTRESS
Mrs. Frank W. Swanton Says She Knows Three Things Well: Cooking,
Shakespeare and Cats Tells of Work for Helping Lot of Dumb Beasts.
Exchange.
Put tnth.r w ,... r.r .l..j
of lilac ribbon shirred over wire, two sugar, a cup of maple sirup, a cup of
pink roses and a spray of maidenhair i water, a tablesnonnfnl nt vlna. ,t
fern centering the bowknot bring all to a boil over the fire. After
The corsage iiower is also made or it has cooked for some minutes tost a
ribbon, twisted around a stem wound i little in cold water. If it forms a hard
with green chenille. These tiny flowers ball, add a teaspoonful of vanilla, take
are used to catch up laces on the bod- from the fire, whip In the whites of
ice and skirt and even trim the flounces two eggs, beaten to a froth, and a cud
of dancing pettiooats. A specially pret- of granulated sugar mixed with half a
ty petticoat, to be worn . under a net cup of cold water and boil until it spins
Valentine party frock. Is a flounce of a thread from the tip of a spoon or
fine machine embroidery In & vandyked I fork. The sugar sirup and the eggs
pattern, and at the upper point of I should be mixed before adding them to
each Vandyke scallop Is set a tiny rose I tne zirst mixture, as soon as this be
gins to cool Beat nard with a Dover
egg beater for five minutes, or until It
Is too stiff to beat any longer, add two
cupfuls of chopped nut meats and pour
into a buttered pan. cut into squares
with a buttered knife.
of pink satin.
BY LOUISE BRYANT.
IT IS one of the joys of life that no
two days are alike and that the
people we meet along Its highway
are different. We always realize this
a little more when one crosses the
horizon who for some particular qua!
Ity stands out from the rest. Such a
one Is Mrs. Frank W, Swanton, of the
Humane Society.
Mrs. Swanton has been prominent
among our Interesting Western men
and women for a good many years.
When I spoke of this she said, "Dear
me, I'm quite surprised, for I only
know three things well and they are
cooking, Shakespeare and cats." It is
a rather startling combination, but it
has Its significance. She Is an excel
lent housekeeper and a reader of no
mean ability. As "Leotta" she was
known very well in the East and Mid
dle West before her marriage. Her
poses In Greek costumes for the theat
rical photographer. Morrison, -of Chi
cago, made lots of money for that
thrifty man.
Xatnre Is Sympathetic.
Her knowledge of cats is apart from
all this, however; it has to do largely
with her heart. When Mrs. Swanton
said that she knew cats she did not
mean that she could pick a winner at
a four-point show; she meant rather
that there was always meat and milk
in her pantry for any miserable little
kitten which some neighbor dropped
in her yard.
I asked Mrs. Swanton when she be
came interested in her work. "I never
became." she said, "I was Just born
that way. Why, when I was a little
tot I picked up every stray cat or dog
and brought it - home, and I got Into
: it 1 !
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I Mrs. Franc: W. Swanton, of t
I Humane Society. I
' . .
Xnt Fudge.
. Exchange.
Put into a saucepan three cupfuls of
light brown sugar, a cupful of cold
water and a teaspoonful of vinegar,
bring slowly to the boiling point, stir
ring only until the sugar is dissolved
and then boll without stirring until a
spoonful dropped into cold water forms
a hard ball. Take from the fire, set to
one side and beat into the mixture, as
soon as it stops bubbling, the stiffly
whipped wnites of two eggs, when the
candy Is. beginning to stiffen flavor
with a couple of teaspoonfuls of vanilla
and add a cupful of nuts, cut Into
small pieces. English walnuts, pecans
or hickory nuts are best, though alm
onds or filberts may be used If the oth
ers are not at hand.
Styles In Suits.
Dry Goods Economist
In suits, the new simple draperies.
with only a slight fullness gathered in
to the front, sides or back, are expected
to meet with more success than the
more elaborate forms, which are pri
marily intended for gowns. Clusters of
pleats, introduced at one or both sides,
in the back or front, are frequently
seen. The narrow effect around the
1 ankles, being a style feature which is
pronounced as ever, must be pre
served. Some skirts are made so .scant
that they have to be slashed.
Breakfast Tafcle Don'ts.
Cincinnati Tribune.
No matter how accustomed you may
be to it, forget every semblance of a
endless rows with men who beat their grouch.
horses." I Don't look at your food in a hur-
It is a fact that people have taken I rled. selfish manner.
advantage of . her wholeheartedness, Don't forget that it is a day for the
and sick animals of every" description most pleasant conversation. That
have been left on her doorstep. While means forget business.
I was there a woman telephoned and And don't forget to talk jut because
said that she had a cat she wanted tojt is an especially good breakfast.' ,
EW YORK, Feb. 8. (Special.)
Hat secrets are out now. Paris
has sent over authoritative style
expressions of those milliners whose
word is law, and the Southland hats
are blossoming on every, hand, ready
for the picking.
The striking note of the Spring hat
seems to be elongation. This note is
reiterated in varying millinery themes.
and though large hats for mid-Sum
mer wear have not as yet appeared on
the horizon, the chic first models em
phaslze the idea of elongation that is,
long lines from front to back; and the
effect is augmented by the sweep ot
the trimmings, the close fit on the low
crown over the head, the narrow roll of
the brim at the side, and the arrange
ment of the coiffure.
These elongated hats, as expressed
by. Paris, are called aeroplane shapes,
and a freakish whim of the French mil
liner is to pose a leather, or a bow of
long ribbon loops directly at the DacK,
to suggest the aeroplane's propeller.
virot and Marie Crozet favor this meth
od of trimming' enthusiastically, and
one Virot mode, worn by a French
duchess who recently paid a flying visit
to New York to attend an important
social function, wore perhaps the first
of these propeller models that has been
seen in America. It was a tiny, elongated
hat with a crown of black hemp and a
narrow brim faced with black panne
velvet. The brim rolled back almost
flat against the crown at the front,
but at the back reached out at least
eight inches behind it. Over this pro
jecting back brim shot out a long os
trich quill in shades of pale tan. A
brown veil was adjusted over the lace
and narrow front brim, and the whole
effect was exceedingly chic and trim.
Elongated Hats Uncomfortable.
Backaches will be the inevitable re
sult of the hats with brims and trim
mings shooting out toward .the back,
for it is impossible to lean back against
high chair seat In such a chapeau,
and in trolley cars and subway trains,
where the seats . run along the sides,
one-will have to perch on the edge of
the seat, if not lean a little forward, to
keep one's headgear from hitting the
glass of the window behind; and the
woman who travels in a drawing-room
car will have to "remove her hat
against all the canons of good form
or submit to a long railroad Journey
perched on the edge of her luxurious
chair.
Picot ribbon in long loops, shooting
out from the back or side of the crown.
Is also used to give this long-from-
front-to-back effect, and. some of the
ribbon trimmed hats are very attractive
as well as quite modestly priced. - A
Southland model, boxed and sent for
ward from the milliner's last week, to
Join a tailored coat and Skirt costume
of white sicilienne at Palm Beach, was
particularly chic and particularly sim
ple in design. The melon-shaped crown
of white milan was long from front
to back and fitted down over the top
of the head. From it, turned up a nar
row, -flat brim, faced with dark-blue
panne velvet. This brim rolled close
against the crown at front and sides.
but at the back shot out several inches I
in a sharp point. - Wide, navy-blue rib
bon .with a picot edge, was twisted into I
thick rope and encircled the crown
near the top; three long loops of the
ribbon projecting from a soft knot
over the elongated brim at the back.
This style hat bida fair to be a favored
model for street wear with tailored
costumes and many such models have
been bought by travelers bound for the
Southland.
Indian Needle Is Ornament.
As typical a Spring feature as the
elongated rim, is the front ornament
sticking straight up over the forehead.
This is an Oriental style feature, part
of the strong Oriental vogue this sea
son, and the pert "stick-ups" of pleated
ribbon, of fancy feathers and of wired
velvet, are all adaptations of the In
dian needle ornament of the far East.
Some of the smart little "black tulle
toques which one sees these days onj
Fifth avenue, have acfual "needles'
spikes of Jet which rise sharply upward
at the front of the hat. These airy
black toques are an advance messen
ger of the Easter hat and satisfy the
restless fancy of those women who
must have something new in the way
of headgear the moment Christmas sea
son is over.
Some of these saucy little black hats
are entirely of malines which is shirred
at the edge to form a narrow brim to
frame the face. Others are banded
with jet-embroidered net; still others
have soft brims of velvet. But always
there is the puffed black malines crown
and the pert, upstanding ornament at
the front; the soft cap of tulle being
set a trifle back on the head so that
the upstanding front ornament slopes
slightly backward. Malines Is prom
ised strong popularity with the arrival
of midsummer hats for wear with lin
gerie frocks of embroidery and lace,
but the early tailored models are more
likely to be trimmed with something
stiffer and more substantial than the
perishable tulle stuff.
Straw and Fabric fsed.
The all-straw hat is as rare these
days as the all-one-color gown. Milan,
always a distinguished straw when of
fine . quality, will be rare indeed this
season, and as expensive as genuine
Panama, because of the Turkish war,
in which many of the raisers of Milan
ese straw have been killed. Hemp Is
enormously fashionable, and this straw
is particularly supple and unmanage
able. Satin straw braids and picot
straw braids are used for soft crowns
in combination with brims of velvet,
moire silk or other woven material;
and both Panama and leghorn are com
bined with every fabric from printed
cottons to plush and velvet. One may
have 'a crown ot straw and a brim of
silk, or vice versa, but straw should
appear somewhere In the model to
prove its claim to Spring newness and
readiness. . -
A dainty straw toque, worn at a re
cent wedding Important in high society
circles, was of prune color, with pleat-
ings of maline in the same color en
circling the crown. There were two
pleatlngs below and two above a nar
row band of prune-colored velvet rib
bon, and at the front a knot of the vel
vet seemed to hold the base of a tall
fan of the pleated malines which rose
some inches above the hat. This hat
accompanied a wonderfully, draped
gown of prune-colored satin ' brocade
and lansdowne in the same shade; the
silk and worsted lansdowne forming
an under-drapery beneath the brocade
which was lifted toward the front at
the knee, revealing the swathed lans
down skirt slashed at the center front
rather draped in such manner that
the daintily bootedjoot showed at in
tervals. Patent leather boots with
buttoned tops of prune-colored cloth
matched the prune gown and hat, and
the only strongly contrasting color
note was in a deep red velvet rose at
the girdle.
Mercury Wlnga a 'Spring Fancy.
The windows f an important Thirty-
fourth-street shop drew crowds of In
terested observers all day last week.
for In one window were yards and
yards of the wonderful new St. Gall
embroideries in allover, robe and band
effects, and in the other were Spring
hats not many, but each a gem in Its
way. One noted in these charming hats
ready for Southland wear a preponder
ance of Mercury wing effects not all
actual Mercury wings, but the wing
effect cleverly effected with wired net,
straw, and even with roses, for one
white Milan model had a pair of Mer
cury wings made of small white roses
sewed closely together on coarse net.
Only two flower-trimmed hats were
visible in the collection, for the mil
liners have not succeeded in making
flowers fashionable for first hats at
least. One particularly smart model
had a crown of black hemp and a
rolling brim of white milan, and two
long, sharply-pointed Mercury wings
In black; one
right side of the little hat and the
other shooting out backward from the
opposite side. The effect was inde
scribably chic.
Two particularly fetching hats are
ready for Southland wear in the trous
seau of a bride of this month. One is
a traveling hat in turban shape with a
brim pointing out at the back. This
hat is made of dark red tagal with a
brim-facing of black velvet. A "stick
up" of red and black coque feathers
rises abruptly at the front from a bow
of white picot ribbon. This hat will
accompany a traveling frock of dark
blue worsted and mohair mixture worn
under a three-quarter coat, and tan
boots of the new washable tan leather.
The other hat is intended for wear with
a white embroidery frock having .a
rose-colored sash and Is of white straw
braid with trimmings of white picot
ribbon and a bunch of arbutus. t
The Gathered Muff.
Cincinnati Tribune.
The huge Granny muff made of gath
ered and corded silk, brocade or chif
fon is very fashionable this season.
It is besides quite simple to make,
and looks much more chic than a
muff of imitation fur. Blue and
red shot taffeta Is used for a pret
ty model. Two thicknesses of wadding
form the lining onto which the silk
s gathered and divided into sections
with piping cords. Wide frills of the
silk finish off the muff on either
side.
That Style P
Your Figure?
Impossible!
Fat women who are contemplating a
new gown in the mode will have to con
template a reduction of their flesh, bafore
they visit the dressmaker.
Fortunately this is nothing like the
hard labor it was when on had nothing
but exercising; or dieting to get results
with. Nowadays a short course of the
Marmola Prescription Tablets should bring
any -woman, however fat, to the propor
tions necessary for her to wear a Dlreo
toire gown.
Let ner take a Marmola. Tablet (made
in accordance with the famous prescrip
tion and, therefore, harmless) after each
meal and at bedtime and she should very
soon be kwinr a pound a day. This rs
sult, accomplished without disturbing,
one's table customs, forming wrinkles of
distressing the stomach, astonishes everybody.
Even one large case, costing only 71
cents at anv druggist's, or the earns
amount direct by mall from the Mar
mola ComoanT. Farmer Bid-., Detroit,
-pom tea Mercury wings i M)ch ,ves pcntiv, results. Thi fina
lising straight up at the i atitutei I Xfc an of tsmeZs.