TIIE SUNDAY OEEGONIAX. PORTLAND.' FEBRUARY ' 2, 1913.
6
ARAB DRAPERY OF DRECOLL SUITS
ONE OF STRIKING STYLE FEATURE
Effort to Hide Seams in Coat by Eccentricity of Cnt Is Noted Mohair Mixtures Parisian Vogue Nothing
Apparently Can Divorce Pao.uin From the Long Coat Oriental Lines Prevail.
- ' : ... ..T"Lw,- y; I
lialSlipiffipili -.Ai ' . -
" SfS " - . ' : X
PARIS, Feb. 1. (Special.) This at
tractive little Spring costume has
four Important style Interests, the
peculiar looped-over drapery called the
Arab drapery, the effort to hide seams
In the coat by an eccentricity of cut,
the use of a new cotton trimming ma
terial called aig-zag clotli because of
the uneven stripe effect in the weave,
and the vogue of mohair and mohair
FASHIONABLES OF PARIS IN GLORY
OF SPRING ATTIRE CROWD RIVIERA
Tailored Costumes of Mohair, Topped by Exceptionally Tiny Chic Hats, and Shoes of Most Fanciful Effect Pos
sible Are Most Favored Oriental Influence Felt.
PARIS, Feb. 1. (Special.) These
are the days when the sun shines
along the Riviera when the bleak'
.east wind does not bappen to be blow
ing. But when the bleak wind blows
the fair Parlslenne stays Indoors, for
she has not the courage of the English
woman, who dearly loves to don a
rough coat and storm boots and wres
tle with the elements on a long tramp.
It is when the sun shines at Mentone,
at Kice and at Monte Carlo that one
sees the typical Paris fashionable in
her glory of new Spring attire, fresh
from the hands of her favorite cou
turier and milliner and embodying the
last word of Paris in modishness to the
tips of her little buttoned boots.
Tailored costumes are, of course, the
most prominent these days, though one
sees charming frocks in the afternoon,
at tea hour, and in the evening espe
cially at Monte Carlo may the cream
of Paris fashions in gowns aid wraps
be observed.
Mohair Decidedly Favored.
One notes the favor for mohairs and
mohair mixtures In smart tailored wear
This Spring; every couturier seems to
have turned out at least one model In
one of these materials; and the softly
woven mohair and worsted fabrics lend
themselves with particular grace to the
pleated and draped tailored skirt ef
fects. A dainty little tallleur by Dre
coll, worn at a tenriis tournament near
Nice recently, was of citron-colored mo
hair and had a rather short cutaway
coat fastening at the bust with five
flat white pearl buttons set close to
gether, the buttonholes also being
worked in white. Above was a narrow,
turned-down collar of white satin. At
the back the coat was gathered in
slightly Just above the waistline with a
short belt, and up the outer side of
the sleeve ran five more white but
tons with attendant loops. The cut
away line of the coat was repeated
by a cross-over tunic on the skirt, and
below this was another tunic cut In
the same manner. This suggestion of
the tier, or double flounce effect. Is
an important one, for the dressmakers
are harping upon tiers of flounces, all
applied flatly, in tunic style, and the
lingerie frocks of new machine em
broidered crepes, batiste and voile,
show almost invariably this two or
three-flounce suggestion.
The little citron and white Drecoll
tuit under consideration, fell just short
f the vamp of a patent leather boot,
the buttoned top of white suede peep
ing, at the instep, under the skirt hem.
Boots aa Slippers Fanciful.
The Parlslenne wears boots and slip
pers that no American would dream of
donning for the street. French taste
runs to fanciful effects: to much stitch
ing: eccentrically cut perforations;
sparkling buttons and even sparkling
heels; and the French woman's but
toned walking boot has Invariably the
curved Louis heel, which Is worn, by
mixtures in Paris now. This Drecoll
suit is built of grayish-green mohair
and worsted mixture with white ball
buttons and a zigzag- cloth collar in
white, black and pale yeliew stripes.
The lifted skirt Just reveals the but
toned walking boot.
No matter what other couturiers
may do, Paquin adheres to the long
coat. Insisting that only such coats are
harmonious and graceful in the com
well-dressed American women only
with formal afternoon and evening cos
tumes. It is easy to pick out the Amer
icans on the Riviera by their smart and
well-chosen footwear, and there are
now. special dealers in Paris who sup
ply their customers with American
boots and slippers, since these have
been demanded even by Frenchwomen
who have experienced the combined
FASHIONABLE PARISIANS NOW USE
NEW SINGLE-HANDLE HANDBAGS
Long Loop or Doubled Strap of Leather or Silk Forming Handle Is Attached at Center of Frame Instead of Ends,
and Thus Does Not Hit Persons or Things When Hanging From Forearm.
fee-' ryRii. i&m I
v fi s , r
EW YORK, Feb. 2. (Special.)
Most of the striking and fanciful
' fashions originate In Paris, but
not all of the practical and utilitarian
pleted lines of the costume. This
Paquin suit for Spring has a draped
skirt and an extremely graceful coat
which gives to the figure the Oriental
line, bagging outward at the knees,
produced in other-costumes by drapery.
The scarf necktie of gay brocaded silk
on the coat is a style feature that will
surely achieve popularity, so effective
is this note of rich color on the street
costume.
comfort and chic of the American
shoe.
All tailored costumes of a formal or
semi-formal nature, and, of course, all
elaborate afternoon costumes, are ac
companied by the buttoned boot which
is now the accepted type of boot for
such wear. These boots are of patent
leather or dull calf, with tops of suede
in the tone of the gown, of dull black
"t-;,.Y
v
-
LVTEST IX HANDBAGS OF VARIOrS STYI.ES.
fashions, which are far more likely to
hail from practical England, Inventive
Germany or enterprising- America.
Here, however, is an extremely prac
tical new fashion which comes straight
calf, of cloth or of white calf with
black trimmings the latter being espe
cially dear to the French heart. Tan
boots are considered eminently cor
rect with the traveling and outing cos
tume, and a new tan leather which may
be wiped clean with'a moistened sponge
without the need of strenuous polishing
is liked by Europeans as well as by
Americans.
Hats on the Riviera now are so tiny
that they are scarcely worth mention
ing or would be, were it not for their
immeasurable chic. Nothing more chic
than these saucy, tiny hats has ever
come out of Paris, and strangely
enough, for all their smallness. the new
hats show more of the hair than has
been the case for several seasons. In
fact they are diminutive, elongated
skull caps with a pert bit of brim at the
edge, which Just fits over the top of the
head, the large headsize allowing them
to settle comfortably on the waves of
the hair. Ear-rings of one sort or an
other usually add the emphasis need
ed with such a tiny hat. and usually
also a veil of the fashionable soft mesh
is swathed over the face and under the
chin. This gives a particularly chic
effect, for the Parlsienne is at her best
in a small hat and a well-adjusted veil.
The couturiers all unite in follow
ing the Eastern effects so far as the
figure silhouette and the skirt lines
are concerned. Draperies are every
where and their variety is boundless.
No two models are precisely alike
and Indeed it is next to impossible
to drape two lengths of fabric exact
ly In the same manner especially If
each drapery is over a different figure.
The folds will take vastly different
lines and movements, even if the ma
terial is caught up in the same man
ner; but the couturiers never do catch
it up in the same manner. Every new
model has a difference from every pre
ceding one that arouses a new inter
est and a fresh emulation on the part
of competitors. But in all this multi
plicity of draped effects there Is one
controling idea the Oriental idea, the
influence of Asiatic, Arabian, Turkish
and even Chinese dress that Is domi
nating Europe now.
Skirts Give Oriental Effect.
This Oriental Influence has made it
self felt in 'the cut of simple tailored
skirts, which bag out ever so slightly
below- the hips, tapering in again to
ward the feet, giving a silhouette
like that of an Eastern woman,
swathed in yards of drapery above a
slinky petticoat or bifurcated garments
of soft silk or gauze. There are even
skirts cut in such pronounced manner
that they have the suggestion of a rid
ing coat in the outward slope from the
waist to knee; but always there is the
inward slope to the ankle, for nothing
could give a more hopelessly out-of-style
effect these days than a skirt
sloping gently outward from waist to
hem.
All these beautifully draped skirts
that one notes on the Riviera are
made with as few self-evident seams
as possible, the length of material be
ing manipulated skilfully without cut
ting. A costume in point Is a coat and
skirt modeled by Weeks, made of dark
blue lansdowne, the silk and worsted
weave which is being used largely by
the French dressmakers now for draped
effects. This suit has a draped skirt
which at first appears most intricate
in arrangement but which is In real
ity very simple. At the back the
lansdowne falls in the Capuchin hood
drapery which is so specially grace
ful, one length of the fabric crossing
the other at the front, with the bias
edge exposed and the Cupuchin hood
effect being formed where the looped
up inner edge comes at the back. At
one side of the skirt the excess of ma
terial sagging mayhap at the foot
has been merely tucked up underneath
in a sort of pannier drapery which is
tacked to a drop skirt of white satin.
Most of these draped skirts of lans
downe. charmeuse and other clinging.
silky fabrics have drop skirts, equally
clinging but straight and slim in cut
underneath, the draperies being tacked
in place against the drop skirt here
and there. A -very thin, soft petticoat
trimmed only with an ungatnerea
flounce of fine machine embroidery Is
worn under such a .gown and the petti
coat falls only to the top of the but
toned boot, for almost without excep
tion French skirts are siasnea mis
Spring, the instep and ankle of the
nrettv boot showing now and then
among the draperies.
I Veiled Embroidery New Note.
Not a few' of the handsome afternoon
costumes worn at tea hour or at af
ternoon fete affairs on the Riviera
show trimmings of machine embroidery
veiled with thin lace, with net or me
tallic gauze. The embroidery, being a
tub fabric does not appear boldly In
combination with the silken fabric of
the gown, but discreetly allows Its rich
pattern to show through a veiling of
gauzy stuff which combines the ma
terials in a modish harmony. An
effective gown of faille silk In the new
orchid shade a pinkish lavender has
a front panel of St. Gall embroidery in
a Bohemian lace pattern veiled with
chiffon and the effect is exquisitely
lovely and refined. Faille and other
silks with an onduline weave are used
for very elaborate gowns with trim
mings of lace and these veiled machine
embroideries. The strong sunlight of
the Riviera and the tiny hats now
affected make parasols necessary with
most afternoon costumes and some of
the new models are worthy of a de
tailed description, but the parasol story
must wait for another time.
from. Paris the single-handle bag,
which is so convenient that everybody
Is wondering why it has not been
thought of before.
The long loop or doubled strap of
ICTliilPi Mi 1 :f l lllillllti
NEW THREE-PIECE DRESSES BRING
OUT FIGURE LINES IN SILHOUETTE
C allot Soeurs Costume Emphasizes Oriental Aspiration of Modern Fashion Cheruit Refuses to Allow Freak
Styles to Bun Away With Good Judgment Christiane Gown Personifies Far East.
-Jode&r T&tefes Cfi&svz.
ARIS, Feb. 1. (Special.) The fem
inine lines of the figure are em
phasized by all the new Oriental
effects of costume, and the manner of
standing, with the figure relaxed and
the knees flexed further, emphasises
this line. The dress pictured Is part of
a Callot-Soeurs three-piece costume and
strongly suggests the Oriental and nat
ural silhouette now aimed at by femi
ninity and the couturier. The skirt is
very slightly draped. Its clever cut giv
ing the smart lines rather than an ar
rangement of fabric.
It Is always easy to pick out a
leather or silk which forms the handle
Is attached at the center or tne iraiuo,
rather than at its end, and the bag.
UIUS BlUUg 11 I.I 1 11 I'm ii" "-in "
. I ..... I n L.tiU r,f anrlnPlnff nil t
at right angles and hitting people or
things as one passes aiong, wm is
familiar trick of the ordinary hand
bag.
Every smartly dressed woman in
Paris and along the Riviera that
one of these new handbags, and three
favorite styles are aescriDea nere; an
brought over from Paris less than a
fortnight ago.
Handle Is Single Strap.
rina iz nr 0-nmAt watered silk and
was designed to accompany a .coat and
skirt costume of mohair ana worsieu
mfTt nrHi.mii for "Riviera wear. The
features of this bag are, of course, the
single-strap nantue oi waierea oiiv, at
tached to the center of the curving sll-
...... nA tha nlfntfri netticoat
around the' lower half of the bag. There
are two gores to mis peiutwi
seams at the sides over tho hips, so to
speak each seam being slashed in the
most modish manner ae far up as tne
group of silk-covered outtons.
rr.1. . 1a aMnthar Kinple-StraD
A. HO BCVWUU ID "I'll ' - - - -- .
model, made of striped moire and fin
ished arouna tne outturn wim
. . 1 -111. rpttA f-ama nf t Vt 1 Q bf IS
UL IU oua. j..., . . ..... i
also silk-covered, which gives a spe
cial elegance ana uiauniimin -
handle is of the striped moire with a
, 11 i j ..1 1 o-nt tA Tnnrnh the
siiuins 1 1 ii s u i '
dull gilt fastening device on the frame.
This bag is lined with maize-colored
satin, and nas snirrea putw
for powder puff, cardcase and memor
andum tablet.
At the extreme left la another en
.t i Tat rl ..a in thA hundbag
LI 1 til J 11 IT. IT A a. .O -
line. This is a double end bag slung
from a single-strap imnuie m onm
Instead of being merely reticules with
- - . i. i .( nr Hi. li r ml the
SlltS I Ul HI" l ii.n i ...... - -
ends are regulation handbags, one with
a silver irame tor iwuuwuumin f
mrdcase and the like, and the other in
envelope style for the vanity outfit.
This bag also is maae ui iuo
watered or moire silk, which Is Just
. i. - .1.1 ..in with costumes
nuw iim) i-iii nfi ; , ,
of charmeuse, crepe de chine and lans
downe, tne lustrous weave ""
nttitu tins heen taken up for
draped and clinging effects.
Oriental Bags Popular.
n.iantsi htiirn are the fad for theater
with. elaborate evening
-costumes, and especially with gorgeous
- . ii i . .. l . mn RnmM lf these
wraps oi vji n il i-fi . j i -
bags are made of bits of almost price-.
less oia niii:w tin... - -
from 'the robes of long gone Mandarins
i .i. i. ; .-, i. nfr;fain nf stn.te. Such
aiiu u ii i hi ii c. "
bags are in reticule or pouch style,
without metal frames, and closing un-
. . i m ..ii hraM lllTA tho rinflT-
oer rnisa wi . . . .
closing of the genuine Oriental money
purse
Dainty bags of white allover em-
. j i . .nnArlncr fft- . 11HA With
Droiacry i c " F i' ' n
Palm Beach and Riviera costumes of
similar material, a Dag oi anuvei on
Gall embroidery in a very lacy pat
tern is veiled with white pin-tucked
A
Beauty
secret
tJS nan rictlce at a CoBileiien teeelalitl. sal It tn
i tttoret alrtth, tltat, ietjtma. Sold I
aruttW. a (ras aaajia aid Btautj
took at
SICIDMORB DKDO C04
lit Third St rorUand,
X WmamM
Cheruit frock or BUit, for this cou
turier never allows freakish styles to
run away with her famous good judg
ment of what is correct for a gentle
woman. Cheruit frocks are invariably
wearable and charming, and the model
pictured here is no exception to this
rule. The coat matching the dark
cloth skirt has been removed to show
a bodice of black chiffon over white
liberty. A sash of brocade in gold,
black and blue, crosses the bust and
within the V-shaped decolletage of
the dark bodice Is set a little yoke of
St. Gall embroidery in ' a lacy pattern.
net, and Is in pouch shape with a ring
or "collar" of crocheted white cord,
and a long loop handle of the white
cord attached In single-strap style to
the center of the top.
Make
Tobacco Poucli.
Washington (O. C.) Herald.
That is. If you are contemplating
embroidering one for a man of your
acquaintance, please keep rn mind his
color preference. He is much more
apt to like one subdued in tone than
something splendidly gay. Further
more, he will not like it too elaborate
for then it will look first cousin to
a feminine work bag, and he'll hate
that if he is the average man.
Don't make it too big he doesn i
want to carry his entire supply of the
You will like it.
ED. PINAUD'S'
LILAC VEGETAL
Just try it once write to-day for the testing bottle offered
below. Pind out for yourself the delightful quality of this
exquisite perfume and toilet water.
We hnow so well its superiority to all other toilet water
that we are content to leave it to your judgment after you
test it.
ED. PINAUD'S
LILAC VEGETAL
is used by refined women for handkerchief, atomizer, bath,
liquid sachet and for many toilet purposes.
Gentlemen use it after shaving, as its refreshing, comforting
qualities have caused it to displace bay-rum, witch-hazel,
etc. All first-class barbers apply it on request.
When purchasing lilac Vegetal insist on the genuine
ED. PIUAUD'3. There are many imi
tations, but if you want a guarantee of
quality and satisfaction, look on the
label for this signature.
The price is 75c for a 6-oz. bottle.
Ask at any first-class drug or department store.
USE SPECIAL COUPON
PARFUMERIE ED. PINAUD
11 ED. PINAUD BLDG. NEW YORK
For enclosed 2c please send me special 10c testing bottle of
ED PINAUD'S Lilac Vegetal.
Name -Street
-Gty
Dealer's Name
EH
From Christiane comes this bridge
gown or orchid faille, a new silk with
a brilliantly lustrous surface, yet very
soft, suppie texture. The draped skirt
bags at the knee over a sash of silk
which appears t draw in the skirt
under the baggy drapery and the skirt
is so long that it must be lifted at
every' step, revealing a dainty but
toned boot beneath its hem. A panel
of machine embroidery in one of the
new Bohemian lace effects and veiled
with chiffon in the lovely orchid shade
of the silk runs down the front of the
gown and bandings of machine stitch
ing in Turkish pattern complete the
Oriental suggestion.
"weed" in it, nor yet too small. Re
member the size of his pockets and
think how large the bag would be
when filled.
Line it with old silk, to keep the
tobacco in good condition and get
good oil silk while you are about it.
Street Dresses.
Dry Goods Economist.
The newest for street wear are the
coat dresses, the modified drapery
styles, the long waisted peasant models,
the Russian blouses and the bolero
jackets, together with a wide variety
of simpler designs, which depend large
ly for their striking effects on the
sashes belts, collars, cuffs or vestees.
Belts of leather, fancy cloth, metal or
silk, appear In profusion on street
dresses of all gradep.
. State-