The Sunday Oregonian., January 19, 1913, SECTION FIVE, Page 7, Image 61

iE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND. JANUARY 19, 1913.
I
all its elaborate and dressy effect on
little slippers are made are not a little
striking, what can be said of the
buckles which adorn them?
In Paris one can run up to any fig
ore in choosing these accessories, but
those who cannot Indulge In the real
1913 SHOULDER CAPE IS
REMINISCENT OF PAST
Quaint Garment Worn Over Low-Kecked Bodice Is Great-Great-Graad-daughter
of Fichu, Popular in Days of Charlotte Corday.
the figure. It is made of strips oz
Valenciennes laoe . Insertion, some
wide, some narrower, with a band of
pin-tucked batiste through the center
of the shoulder cape and a washable
white fringe on the edge, so that the
whole cape, upon the removal of the
black velvet buttons, which catch it
up in draped .effect, may be sent to
the laundry for an occasional fresh
ening. The cape slips over the head
MRS. RAYMOND BELMONT THREATENS
TO. USE NAME AS STAGE ATTRACTION
Negotiations With Husband's Family Are Going on Too Slowly, She Believes August Belmont, Lad's Father,
Trying to Annul Marriage and Prevent Use of His Name.
thing content themselves with imita
tions. For Instance, there are great
round, with jewels or mock diamonds".
and there, is no opening at front or
while there are iouis ah dows ui
wA ,.,, if vhlfh Kwincrs
back, the strips of lace and pln-tack-lng
being mitred at the front and the
upper strips of lace being drawn In
the least bit over the shoulders at lta
upper edge. At the back of the waist
line is set a flat bow of black velvet,
which may be pinned against the back
of the frock to insure good line. The
fichu is Intended for wear over lingerie
frocks of embroidery and lace, or It
may be used to dress up a little silk
frock of the sort pictured.
a large pear-shaped pendant, which Is
i ap.wyW.tsuwwlw.iMl
cut into eounuesa iacc, im
glitters and flashes and sparkles with
every movement of the. flying feet In
S3
the dance.
Sometimes the buckles are mere
Bnarlrllnl. dnnM With the
centers filled in with ruched tissue to
match the material 01 wnicn xne snues
are made, while in other cases a touch
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NEW YORK. Jan. 18. (Special.)
Princess Patricia' of Connaught
Is about to visit the United States
strain. She was here about a year ago
with her father and mother when they
were the guests of the late Whitelaw
Jteld at his Xew Tork home. The Prin
cess father the Duke of Connaught is
Governor-General of Canada and the
Princess is the leader of young society
In the Canadian capital.
Alice Drexel, daughter of Mrs. John
R. Drexel has Just been presented to
society In Philadelphia and New York.
Next Summer she will be one of the
belles of Newport, where her mother
Is a social leader.
One of the popular young matrons
of St. Louis Is Mrs. J. S. Walsh. Jr.- A
native of Kentucky, she is naturally in
terested in horses and at the recent
Horse Show In St. Louis she was the
chief exhibitor and took away many
ribbons. Mrs. Walsh has exhibitions
at other shows and she is well-known
in New York society.
Mrs. Reginald Brooks, one of the
beautiful Langhorn sisters of Virginia
has separated from her husband and
will make her home hereafter at Mira
dor near Greenwood. Va. It was the
question of the location of their home.
It Is understood, which separated the
Brookses. Mr. Brooks Is a New York
man. Mrs. Brooks as the beautiful
Phyllis Langhorne, was familiar with
the society o( New York and Newport
is that of her native Virginia, But
she remained always loyal to Virginia
and Insisted on making her home there.
Mr. Brooks preferred New York tf
Virginia and so they agreed amicably
to separate. Mrs. Brooks retains the
custody of her child and receives fl2.
000 a year from her husband.
Negotiations ovr Mrs. Raymond
Answers to Correspondents
BT LILIA.V TINGLE.'
PORTLAND. Or., Jan. 8. Baa rice, any
treat food value? How should it be
rooked so that It fill not be parity and
tlckjrT Thanking you for an answer.
ONE WHO WISHES TO KNOW.
DRY rice contains on an average S
per cent protein (or tissue-building
material) and 79 per cent car
bohydrate (or fuel material). It lias
a fuel value- of 1S20 calories to the
pound. White bread has a fuel value
of about 1199 calories a pound and has
about 9.1 per cent tissue-building ma
terial. Boiled rice, of course, has a
different percentage and lower fuel
value per pound, owing to the large
amount of water absorbed. To ex
press the fuel value in another way. In
comparison with some other mainly fuel
foods, one may say that In order to
obtain 100 calories (or heat units) It
is necessary to take S.l ounces boiled
rice, or 1.3 ounces (a thick slice) of
home-made bread, or 3.63 ounces boiled
potatoes, or 5.6 ounces boiled oatmeal,
or 1.3 ounces (small square) Johnny
Cake, or 82 ounce (about two) gra
ham crackers, or .80 ounces (about
three and one-half) soda crackers, or
,8 (one and one-half lumps) sugar, or
1.0S (about four teaspoons) honey.
Rice la usually easily digested if
well cooked except by dyspeptics, who
cannot digest starch. Having littje
flavor. It makes a good accessory and
'filler, to be used In combination with
more highly flavored materials, es
pecially such as contain protein or tissue-building
material. Used In this
way It takes the place of bread In some
southern Oriental countires. Although
It approximates most closely to cooked
potatoes in fuel value. It lacks some
of the salts contained in potatoes. Kice,
however, is sometimes cheaper and at
all times less troublesome to prepare
than potatoes, so may well be substi
tuted for these occasionally. Besides
Its use as an "accessory" It may form
the basis of a number of excellent
sweet and savory "balanced" dishes, in
which milk, eggs, fish, meat, cheese,
nuts, or other fat and proteid-contaln-Ing
food materials are Incorporated.
Boiled Rice Wash the rice in sever
al waters (cold) do not leave
it to soak. Put the washed rice Into
rapidly boiling salted water. Do not
stir; the "galloping pot" (allowable
only in cooking rice or spaghetti) will
unnlv sufficient motion to keep the
rice from sticking. Use a large kettle
and plenty of water ("more man you
think you need") to keep each gxaln
separate. Boll about 20 minutes or
until you can crush a grain of rice be
tween thumb and finger. When there
is "no bone In it," drain off the water
(save this) and rinse the rice quickly
on the strainer, with clear water, boil
ing water for choice, though a dash
of cola will nci hurt. Return the rice
to a warm place where it can be kept
hot (under a clean folded cloth) for
10 minutes or so, to cook a nine in m
own steam and to allow the grains to
grow white, dry, separate and fully
expanded. Shake the sieve occasion
ally to "fluff" the rice. Serve very hot
as a "breakfast cereal." or as an ac
companiment for meat, fish, curry,
beans or similar foods.
Good grades of rice cooked this way
are never "pasty or sticky." Occa
sionally, however, one comes across In
ferior rice that is always pasty" no
matter how carefully cooked. The
rice water may be used for gruel or as
a thickened basis for soups or sauces or
for starching a bit of fine lingerie.
Portland. Or.. Jan. 13 Harlnc been re
ferred to you. I would bee to alc a lavor.
Last Summer I collected a quantity of rose
leaves which I wish to be lued as rllllns
for a pillow to be seat to my mother in
the East. Would you kindly send me a
recelpe for the curing, apicluir and pre
paration of rose leaves? Thanking yon in
advance. H. H.
The rose petals should be very
thoroughly dried dried to crlspness
and then mixed with any preferred
proportion of cloves, mace and cinna
mon, care being taken not to over
power, but merely to heighten the rose
111 -V4l I JSSV
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Belmont are still going on. But they
are not going quite fast enough to
suit the ex-show girl and she now
threatens to go on the stage to be
billed in big type as "Mrs. Belmont.
perfume. The amount of spice neces
sarily depends upon the kind of roses
used. Personal taste is the deciding
factor. The spices not only give
fragrance, but tend to prevent the de
cay of the petals, xne spiceo
, . . i i miT.ii with an
equal quantity (or less, if preferred) of
down, siik -nun. cuiwu m... .
si.." n mnVji a noft Tjlllow and
also to help to prevent the petals from
absorbing water. xne nmmin
depends upon the purse of the maker.
1 1 t. r heat. Tf not suf
ficiently fragrant. the petal-spice-
down mixture may oe nnisucu uj ."
addition of a few drops of oil of rosea
Some makers add oil of roses to a lit
tle starch and mix this .with the
petals. Rose geranium and lemon
verbena, or "balm" leaves may be dried
and added to the petal mixture. A
double case should, of course, be used
for such a piiiow.
Portland. Or., Jan. IS. Will you give me
a recipe for the real Dickens" Englieh crum
pets, the kind for which Bam Weller-s hero
committed suicide on principle. And may
I congratulate you upon the felicitous art
with which you raise the prosaic recipe to
the plane of literature? Clarity, simplicity
and humor are qualities of style that would
adorn a more aspiring eubject
DORA COPPEKFIELD."
p g i tjse poor Dora"s name because
he seems to have been the only woman
Dickens knew who couldn't cook.
You are very kind to say such nice
things about my column, and In return
I'll do my best with the crumpets. The
trouble Is. however, that the "recipe"
counts for little. Knack, the right kind
of flour, the right kind of yeast and
the right kind of "bake stone" are what
make the real crumpety-crumpet, not
forgetting, of course, careful after
toasting, lots and lots of the very best
butter, good tea, an open fire and good
company.
No one in England, either in Dickens'
time or at present, ever dreams of
making muffins or crumpets. No one
that is, except the "muffin man," a
mysterious creature, who used to ap
pear (and still does In some places)
with bell and baise-covered basket, at
twilight, like some benevolent sort of
bat. He would sell you crumpets, but
would not reveal the secret of their
origin. Some bakers nowadays offer
crumpets on their counters. In a most
prosaio way. and If you are what
Kipling calls "the sort of woman who
shops at the Stores" (with a capital S)
you may get them there. But I never
heard of English crumpet-eaters mak
ing them at home.
The following recipe, however, was
obtained from an old-fashioned cham
pion "crumpeteer," and with this as a
basis, I have succeeded In making, and
in teaching others to make, crumpets
that even Sam Weller's hero would
consider' "the real thing." Only the
handling is the point, not the pro
SLIPPERS OF TODAY ARE
RIVALS OF FAIRY DAYS
Cost of Parisian Articles With Jewels Is Fabulous Craze for Stones Is
Marked ia All Apparel Accordion Pleats Marked ia Blouses.
SLIPPERS have always been a fruit
ful theme to the story teller. Cin
derella's glass slippers have glit
tered and sparkled in the Imagination
of countless dazzled little nursery peo
ple for generations. The scarlet slip
pers of Hans Andersen's tale which
sank into the mire have proved none
the less enthralling, while the Jew
who danced out of his shoes Into a
thorn bush is another equally popular
nursery classic.
But even Cinderella might have
found herself breathless with admira
tion of the slippers of the moment.
With her evening frocks and her
tea gowns, the woman of today no
longer thinks It necessary to buy slip
It Is to prevent this use of his name
that Auerust Belmont Is striving to
annul his son's marriage. Whether
this threat will bring the Belmont
family to terms remains to be seen.
portions, and I can't show that on
paper.
Crumpets One pint milk, one tea
spoon salt, about three cups flour, one
cake fresh compressed yeast softened
in two tablespoons lukewarm water.
Scald the milk, cool to lukewarm, add
the yeast and salt and flour gradually
to make a batter. Let rise In a warm
place until It is a "sponge." Beat well
and let rise again until very full of
bubbles. Have ready a hot greased
bake stone (griddle) with crumpet
rings (about as big as an ordinary
saucer) arranged on It. Pour batter
(to about one-fourth Inch deep) into
the rings. Let cook on one side until
well risen and full of large holes on
the upper surface, then turn ring and
crumpet together and cook lightly on
the other side until the sides are firm.
Wrap In a cloth while warm.
When wanted for use toast crisp on
both sides, butter generously, arrange
In a pile ("holy" side up), cut across
and serve in a hot muffin dish with
tea Practice is needed for success In
baking and toasting. Some bakers add
a little baking ammonia, but this is
not necessary for the skilled "crum
peteer," and the crumpets are probably
more wholesome (or shall I say "jess
unwholesome") without it.
I wish you success, but don't be dis
couraged if your first attempted crum
pets are not all your fancy painted
them. - ,
Sweet Home. Or., Jan. 7. Will you please
tell me how to make vanilla caramels? Ia
white or brown sugar used? What causes
the sugar and milk to curdle on the bot
tom? Must I atlr It often? Could you
give a recipe without molasses?
"PERPLEXED."
Ton might try the following, which
is a '"trade recipe:"
One pound (two cups) white or light
brown sugar, one cup glusoce, two
tablespoons butter, one cup cream (not
milk), as little water as possible to
dissolve the sugar, one teaspoon va
nilla. Dissolve the sugar and glucose, stir
ring until bo 11 (rig point 1b reached. Do
not boll until the sugar Is all dis
solved. Do not stir after boiling be
gins until you put In the cream. Cook
to a soft ball (238 degTees Fahrenheit),
then add the butter and half the oream
and cook to a firm ball (say 242 de
grees Fahrenheit). Add the rest of the
fl.vn.tnv anil nook to a
m emu nu
hard ball, almost, but not quite to the
crack (say 355 cegrees t anrenneii.
Then pour out and mark for outtlng.
As much as two cups of cream may be
used if you want very rich caramels.
You can use brown or white sugar as
you prefer. There will be of course a
slight difference in flavor. The curdl
ing is caused by the acid of the mo
lasses acting on the casein of the milk.
You need either glucose or molasses In
caramels In order to make them
"chewy" and to prevent the sugar
from crystallising.
t ... a mr vmi to wait until next
time for replies to your "saved up"
questions. 1 must aiso atsa umci w
respondents to wait until next week.
pers which are an exact match to her
toilet.
She chooses Instead one or other of
the wonferfuI new tissues in a mixture
of gold and .color, or, m lieu oi mat,
the still more gorgeous brocades and
stamped velvets. . Some of these bro
cades and tissues have the old-fashioned
wallpaper and chints patterns.
reduced In miniature as though seen
through the wrong end oi a telescope,
and patterned with the rather crude
nnruMtations of tropical birds and
gaily tinted fruit. Others are in a
two-color scheme, while the tissues
often reproduce as many snaoes as are
seen in an opal, when it is held up In
the full light of a slanting ray of
sunshine.
But If the materials of which these
of cream satin embossed with golden
fern rronflt naving a mue uvm
mnr. hfifk-lA which imnrisons a tiny
bow of black velvet ribbon.
A simpler scheme, which appeals nau
.n . thd o-irl with A smn.ll dress
.i i- " nm.ll HniihT ff-aiifforeri
ttiiuv tviii cr, is a .i ...... . . . , Q
rosette of black tulle on white, which
is held down in the center witn a tiny
cluster of. crystal beads.
tv.a i-ava fnr Atones, both real and
artificial, does not by any means end
here.
TUA a.Ae eirrilA Is nrOOf DOSltiVe
that they have other equally import
ant roles to play.
This consists of triangular slabs of
semi-precious stones, such as jade and
i. . 1 amhoT Ionia lnKlllI or
rov:K i-i jd uii, ..... . , . ,
bloodstone, which are placed different
ways so as to lorm a oiiuanj wim 1
. iBk, ttnA ar Hnlrpri totrpth-
er with dull, unpolished silver gilt
beads. From one side falls a pend
ant end fashioned of gold "harness"
rings linked together, and ending In a
triangular slab of the same stone as
that of which the Deit is composed.
For the neck ornaments the newest
thing In lieu of the cascade of lace
which usually forms the jabot, is a
widespread "bow" of gauffered black
...h. (.n7 nf twn Rtmfcrht ends
luite, i.uii.ii......r5 " - o
sticking out on each side, while the
center is held down witn a mom oi
jet embroidery and a leaf-shaped end
of the same.
Nowadays the blouse has entered up
on a new phase, and the accordion
pleated example is' carrying all before
It.
Every girl must have lier little blouse
s-nuffered or accordion pleated, while
most of these are belted in at the waist
with a tiny accordion basque depending
from it. Ninon and crepe de chine are
the favorite materials, and the brocade
belt of some vivid tint which encircles
the waist has usually one short end
depending upon it finished with thick
fringe.
The a-irl of today, too, takes an im
mense pleasure In embroidering her
own Bash ends to wear with her dif
ferent costumes. The favorites of the
moment are black Renaissance moire
the watering of which is little more
thn.n linht and shade on the sunace,
while it is worked elaborately in jet
beads and bugles. These belts are very
wide and arranged In deep pleats, the
ends being scarcely twelve inches in
length.
How to Retain a
Correct Figure
THE surprising fact has been pro
claimed to the modern woman that
her figure more closely resembles the
classical Ideal than has been the case
for many generations past and that
she has the corset maker to thank for
the fact, says the Cincinnati Tribune.
And she Is amazed at the audacity of
the corset maker for she knows he
only does as he is bid, and he Is now
bidden to retain her perfect figure and
not make it
Where is the perfect figure to be
found, after all?
Is It the ideal of the sculptor as
shown by the Venus of Milo? Is it
the plump ladies found in Rubens
paintings? Did Gainsborough or Key.
nolds discover it. or is It possessed by
the modern women pictured by Shan
non or Sara-ent? Or - Is it. again, the
Ideal figure from the doctor's point of
vlew.-perfecUy healthy, wen set. up,
the shoulders held well back, the back
flat, the body carried well? Perhaps
this last is the perfect figure of to
day. The ideal of the sculptor is a
well-developed unmarried woman in
her early twenties. After 80 the
sina-le woman shows signs of becom
inr either angular or over-developed;
she has either been too ardent a
sportswoman and has become muscular
or she Is frankly too fat.
As far as can be, the healthy young
woman of the upper and middle classes
of today has a perfect figure, granted
that she is not long-bodied in compari
son with the length of her legs. She
has been trained to hold herself wen,
to walk easllv and with natural grace.
She has been encouraged to take her
part in all athletic pastimes within rea
son. She swims and rows and plays
golf; her exercises have taught ner to
breathe deeply, and, in spite of certain
uncouth dances which are passing
crazes in the ballroom, she is a good
dancer. All her life her body nas Deen
free from -the restraint of stays, the
modern mother wisely holding that a
girl does not want them; therefore,
when the debutante days come has no
consideration for the fancy of a cor
setiere who would pinch here or
squeeze or pad there. Corsets she must
have to aid the hang of her clothes
and to keep her tidy, but they must
be perfectly comfortable In every
respect.-
Menus for One
Week
' Tuesday.
Dried preen pea oup.
Baked rtb-enda of beef. Brown potatoes.
Scalloped celery.
Lettuce salad.
Jellied fruits.
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Celery soup.
Rolled shoulder of lamb stuffed.
Scalloped potatoes. Mashed turnips.
Lrettuce. apple and pecan, salad.
Caramel junket.
Coffee.
Thursday.
Scotch broth.
Curry of mutton with rice.
Chutney.
Cabbage salad.
Apple pie.
Coffee.
Friday.
Lentil soup.
Fried smelts. Tartar sauce. .
potato balls.
Vegetable salad.
Fir comporte with rice cream.
' Coffee.
Saturday.
Vegetable pure.
Broiled meat cakes. Broun potato puffs.
German carrots and peas.
Chicory salad,
pumpkin pie.
Coffee.
8 on day. f
Tomato bouillon.
Boast pork. Apple sauce.
, Brown potatoes. Brown onions.
Lettuce, celery and prune salad,
pineapple whip.
Coffee.
Monday. .
" Vegetable broth.
Bed beans in Mexican sauce.
Hominy cakes.
Canned asparagus salad.
Brown Betty.
Coffee , .
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1013 SHOULDER CAPE, KEMEVISCENT OP OLDES DAYS.
EW YORK. Jan. 18. (Special.
A great-great-daughter of the
fichu Is the auaint shoulder cape
of this season, which is worn over a
low-necked bodice when a higher effect
is desired exactly as was the fichu of
earlier days. It is said that Charlotte
Corday betrayed very little emotion at
the prospect of having her head cut
off; but was overcome with embarrass
ment and dismay when, prior to the
event, her flchu was taken away from
her" leaving her shoulders and bosom
bare.
The shoulder cape Is more becom
ing to most women than' the flchu,
which has to-be arranged with utmost
nicety or the folds of fabric will give
a lumpy look to the outline of shoul
ders and back; and the shoulder cape,
moreover, is coquettish, while the
fichu is dignified and sweetly prim.
Evening gowns this Winter show
the shoulder cape vogue to an ex
traordinary degree and the soft droop
ing draperies of chiffon, lace and net
outline the line of the shoulder and
arm than which there is no more
beautiful line in the whole human form
divine most gracefully. Some times
the skirt of an evening gown will be
H snttirvEGHAi. )
for these bis
testing bottles
offered by
EB. PINAUH
Wc want you to know the
delight of being a regular
user of these most exquisite
toilet preparations.
ED. PINAUD'S
LILAC VEGETAL
A delightful toilet water
for men and women. Has
the delicate fragrance of
the living blossom. Test
the sample and then buy
a regular size bottle from
your dealer. 75c (6 oz.)
PARFUMERD2 ED. PINAUD
11 ED. PINAUD BLDG-, NEW YOXK
lunth to try the samples of ED. PINAUD'S Hair Tonic endtJJae
Vegetal as per your special offer and enclose S c (to pay postage).
Name -Street-City
This coupon must be used
x
1 -c
M-Tk." ' Sx x-
x '
v,ris
& vh&:v v
of velvet, charmeuse or the silky
lansdowne. which is notable for its
graceful draping qualities, and ail of
the bodice that one sees will be a deep
shoulder cape drapery of chiffon or
similar material, falling, over the arms
and covering the figure to the waist
line at front and back except within
the decolletage. The contrast of vel
vet skirt with thin, ' clinging shoulder
drapery Is always very striving ana
this Winter's evening gowns are the
most appeallngly ' feminine creations
that women have worn in years.
New dancing frocks for Southern
wear show these deep shoulder capes
made of very sheer machine embroi
dery of the sort which is now consid
ered correct nay. more, the ultra
smart thing on formal costumes. The
effect of the srioulder cape is always
soft and drooping giving the idea of
sweetly sloping feminine shoulders a
far removed from any suggestion of
athletic, strength . as may be so the
new shoulder cape of embroidery is
usually mounted very flatly on chiffon
or net and a fringe or other trimming
device at the edge drags the fabric
into clinging lines over shoulders, bust
and arms. x
The charming shoulder cape lllus-
trated is simple enough in design, for
HVOlWEOf THIJCU?
EA0BE QUINIKE
COMPOOffD
ALCOHOL
mm mft rao
KM etc
WOUKSCUr
ED. PINAUD'S
HAIR TONIC
(Eao de Quinine)1 ,
Removes dandruff, beau
tifies the hair, keeps the
scalp healthy, imparts
refined fragrance.
Your dealer will sell you
the regular size bottles at '
50c and $1.00
State-
as this is a special offer
uAia itTBr I
BeaA
f Wise
Wonian J
WEAR THE CORSET THAT
Preserves Your Health
Gives Perfect Style
Saves You Money
AND TAKE NO OTHER!
LAmCURVEACK
SELF-REDUCING
No. 322 low bast ) $Q 50
No. 324-medium O"
17 VERY wise woman
-J knows that a very long
corset, if laced in closely
below, has to "give," or split
or "ride up," when the
wearer sits down. Very
often she can't sit down.
Elastic gores are the solu
tion; but ordinary elastics
even the best won t do.
You can't depend on them.
The elastic gores in this
new Nemo (see picture
above) are of the new Las
tikops Cloth. They are
guaranteed to outwear the
corset and retain their elas
ticity to the end.
A New Idea
Practical and Invaluable
Not only for stout figures,
but for every one of the
millions of women who
appreciate a comfortable,
stylish and hygienic corset
that will long outwear most
corsets at double the price.
ASK YOUR DEALER
to show you this splendid
new corset and all the
OTHER FAVORITE NEMOS
FOR ALL FIGURES
$3.50, $4.00 and $5.00
Be a Wise Woman!
Accept no other corset
when you ask for a Nemo.
ynoa BDAC Uf Id vl in
1
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