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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 19, 1913)
THE SUNDAY OKEGONIAX, POKTLAXD, J ACTUARY 19, 1913. EMBROIDERY IS RIVAL OF LACE AS TRIMMING FOR SMART GOWNS New Rivera With Knee-Length Tunic of Colhert Material Is Suggestive of Airiness Short Eussian Tunic With Black Belt Lends Beauty to Late Dress. f7 Iff i l - ...... ill JI ivV- .X A v. I I II II Li ' WW TO:' -h' - rvvvr: BBS rr 1 rot I . f I :n III i r 7 A ' "i I px I f ' -x 1 lit I I 1 ' 'H &Vr4 - I I .&C((.C? HM-aO rCOO. l&edxin wove &&Azax EW TORK, Jan. 18. (Special.) Instead of being- applied directly to the. skirt at the knee, the deep flouncing: In this instance has been cut -out in deep Vandyke motifs and set into the skirt, which is of cot ton crepe material. A short Russian tunic of the embroidery Is belted with black velvet, and the pert black bow Is set at the back. The wide-brimmed hat of red hemp, underfaced with white milan, has a very smart, breezy roll of brim, and the stiff aigrette at the front is black like belt, neckbow and buttoned boots of patent leather. This Riviera town has a knee- length tunic of Colbert embroidery one of the new patterns which are more beautiful than lace itself in their combined airiness and richness of character. The embroiderr tunic in this case Is mounted over a frock of white chiffon with a deep border pat tern In a lovely blue color.- The hat of black chantilly lace and black net Is trimmed with pink roses and at the girdle is a huge silk flower made in the blue color of the printed chif fon border. Eyelet embroidery is combined with two kinds of lace insertion sheer and heavy to make the tunic of a charm ing gown. The lines are simple enough to be almost classic In sugges tion an effect emphasized by the long string of pearls and the shallow decol letage. The embroidery and lace tunic separates at either side to show the skirt of sheer, printed crepe. Bet into the belt with plntucks In lieu ot gathers. . The beautifully fitted boot with its eaiter ton of white suede suceests' a low slipper and white stock lng. so smoothly aoes tne Duttonea boot top lit over ankle and Instep. Maple Cream Hut Candy. Exchange. Break two pounds of maple sugar into pieces, and add a quart or cream and milk half and half boll in a double boiler until the sugar hardens when dropped in cold water, and add a oupful of chopped nuts, pour Into greased pans and marie into strips witn a greased knife. COSTUMES OF SOUTHLAND TELL SUMMER STORY OF WHITE ATTIRE White Cotton Crepe Will Be Formidable Rival of Voile New Embroideries in Hitherto Unknown Effects Shown. Lingerie Frocks for Midsummer Wear Are in Planning Now. NEW YORK, Jan. 18. (Special:) How dull It would be, to be sure, if the shops after holiday week simply devoted January and part of February to getting rid of left-over Winter stocks at bargain prices, in stead of blossoming forth the very day eficr Christmas, in a veritable Spring orchard of snowy, feathery and fluffy white. To be sure the marked-down Winter bargains are there a-plenty If one fares forth to find them: but they are discreetly hidden away in special departments and do not obtrude themselves to offend an eye satisfylng ly dazsled with the array of Spring fabrics on every side. The canny woman sets out early to stock up the sewing room with the wherewithal for Lenten dressmaking. Early in the season the choice Is so mucn wider, and un account of the rl-alry of the white sales prices are more attractive than they are apt to be until late in the season when all the best patterns have been picked out. A little more tabrlo will have to be provided for this Summer's frock than was the case last season, for pleatings and draperies must be counted on: but eight yards of ZT-lnch material should be sufficient for a woman of average height, even when the skirt is flounced. Flonaced Summer Here Aajatm For flounces are once more at the height of fashion. They mads- their Initial bow at Trouville last August, and are the rage now on the Riviera. Nine-tenths of the southland frocks of summery character have flounces of one sort -or another and just here is a very particular point: flounces are distinctly of one sort or another, and the only sort of flounce that is not seen is the old-fashioned gathered flounce. Three times the width of the skirt used to be the correct measure ment for a flounce, but the 1913 flounce knows no such bouffancy. It is applied perfectly flat, and If it Is the least bit fuller than the skirt, the fullness Is in troduced warily by means of plntucks or shallow pleats, pressed down very flat. Some of the flounces curve up ward and wind around the skirt, and it ia marvelous, indeed, how the cou turiers seem able to evolve these wind ing flounces out of straight lengths of machine embroidery. One Riviera frock, for instance, has six flounces of Col bert embroidery mounted over net, reaching from the edge of the skirt to the waistline, each flounce curving up toward the front, where there Is a panel of wide Colbert banding from belt to hem. Farts 1-lk.rm Embroidery. The new note everywhere seems to be embroidery. Paris has evidently smiled on this kind of trimming, for even more fashionable than lace, on the Riviera now, are flounces and band trimmings of the very sheer, very open embroideries some of them more beau tiful than any laces except priceless hand-made varieties could possibly be. Of course, all these beautiful em broideries come from Europe, and it seems really surprising to find many of them at such modest prices. Some of the new Bouncings Imitate per fectly hand-worked patterns, and there are collar and cuff sets for: use with the summery frockt of linen or dimity, which one would swear - were hand-wrought specimens of the beau tiful Appenxelle work, were It not for the prices attached, which by their modesty Indicate that the work is machine done. So marvelous are some of these machine imitations of hand work that only an expert can .tell the difference, and the new embroideries are much in demand for Summer' petti coats, negligees and lingerie garments. The bolder patterned embroideries are favored by fashion for frocks and blouses, and some of the. boldest and most open effects are veiled with white net or are mounted upon net to give a soft effect. Handsome flouncings show motifs of net in the embroidered designs, and, altogether, net is going to be a very popular fabric in next Summer's costumes, if signs are to be believed. When one says "bold" pat terned embroideries, an effect of coarseness or heaviness is not supposed to be conveyed. . In faot, the bolder the new patterns, the sheerer, finer and lacier they we, and soma of the effects are remarkably like handsome point Venlse designs. New also are the pattern embroidered robes with graceful designs wrought on grounds of crepe cloth, a new snow- flake voile called "voile nelge" and new mesh fabric, exquisitely fine and soft, called "mousseline a Jour." There are also many beautiful robes of sheer batiste and the cotton voiles have not been neglected, although crepe is the more fashionable fabric for this sea son, voiles and batistes taking a sec ond place except for distinctively mid summer costumes of lingerie type. Eastern Effects Noticeable. Among the new embroidered robe patterns, one notes a large proportion of Eastern effects. There are Bulgarian patterns, Armenian patterns, Russian and' Turkish patterns, and there are new brocade and tapestry effects which are especially beautiful. Espe cially Interesting are the colored em broideries on white or cream grounds. and the embroidered allovers of which frocks and blouses are being made for Palm Beach wear. A charming little frock- of plumetls embroidery as this colored work on a white crepe ground Is called shows tiny sprigs of forget- me-nots, heliotrope and moss roses on a creamy ground, leaf and stem designs In pale green being scattered through the pattern at Intervals. All the color lngs are very soft ancVdelicate, and the gown la most simply fashioned with a draped skirt and a deep fichu-collar of net and cluny lace, a soft sash of hello- trope silk, lined with pale blue in the forget-me-not shade, encircling the waist and falling at ono side- of .the back.' Cream and ecru tints are well rep resented among the- new Summer fabrics, and embroideries, and some of the pattern robes combine white and ecru, showing an ' ecru embroidered design on a white ground, or vice versa. These robe dresses are being draped as gracefully by the couturiers as any formal winter gown of char meuse. crepe-de-chine, or lansdowne a draping fabric of particularly beau tiful texture and most graceful char acter. Usually the lingerie robe is ac companied by a pale-colored sash tied or knotted in some individual manner, and along the Riviera they are wear ing buttoned boots of white buckskin with costumes of this sort. All Fabrics Drapable. ' With the exception of linen, which Is always the standby for th outing type of Summer costume, because of Its fine laundering qualities and its sturdy strength of texture everything this season 1b drapable. Therei is, first and foremost, the white cotton fcrepe which leads In favor, ratine striped crepe, and crepe striped with cotton velour or cotton plush, or having border of one of these materials. These new cotton plushes and velours look something like uncut velvet and they are more attractive in the colored cot ton materials than in the white, which rather suggests toweling effects to a critical eye. Zig-zag cotton suiting Is the dernier cri In Paris, and this material is ob talnable at most of the white sales now. It is woven from threads of graduating size, alternating thick and thin, and in the weaving, the threads are pulled in the loom .to give a wavy or zig-zag effect to the material. tailored suit made of this zig-zag stuff in a pale tan shade is Included in a trosseau which will travel south very shortly. The suit is piped with corded lines of black satin and is matched by blouse of allover ecru embroidery mounted on cream net, the contrast of tint bringing out the embroidery de sign effectively. A new English walk inr hat of cream milan trimmed with a back-shooting bow of black-edged tan picot ribbon also matches the suit, and boots of the new tan leather,, which are so easily wiped clean with soap and water, will be worn with the smart street costume. These boots by the way are in the distinctly new and natty style, with a very low heel, long, pointed toe and a top having only five buttons like a mans boot. Complet ing: the costume is a long-handled para sol of tan silk with an inset band of ecru- Colbert embroidery. White Footwear Pretty. The white boot is very near to woman's heart if one may be per mitted the expression and gladly does she welcome the return of the season when white footwear may be worn con stantly. Never does she feel so dam tily dressed, nor does her costume ever more satisfactorily express ner rem inity than when her feet are shod in white boots or slippers and whits silk stockings to match. This Summer white footwear Is to be more - fashionable than ever as the styles for the southland attest and the conventional white footwear for out of-door occasions will be the well-cut buttoned boot of white buckskin with moderate Cuban heel and vamp on the new, long lines now considered Datrlclan and distinguished, such boot is illustrated, showing the high top with 14 buttons, and the lines of dainty perforated trimming, or brogulng; In the shoe vernacular, on the toe. With the smart buttoned boot are shown two new types of piazza foot wear; a colonial pump of white calf, with a covered heel and an odd trim ming of black patent leather laid under a row of perforations. The buckle is of patent leather studded with rhlne- stones. To the woman who adores novel effects, the white buckskin ox ford will appeal. The arrangement of the buttons on alternating scallops of the white buckskin and black patent leather is an entirely new note In foot- NOTE OF COLOR IS RUNG AFAR THIS YEAR EVERYWHERE EVEN TO EMBROIDERIES Long Shoulder Line With Three-Quarter Sleeve Below. Is Also Interesting Note Nets Are Mounted Over Embroidery and Open Embroideries Are Mounted Over Net. wear. "My Best Recipes 11 Cash Prizes Offered by The Oregro niast to Women Readers. Three cash prizes of. $8, 82 and 81, respectively, will be offered by The Oregonian each month for the best recipe, in different classes of dishes, submitted by skillful housekeepers. Intending contestants should observe the following rules: 1. Write briefly (not less than 100 nor more than 400 words), on one side of the paper only. 2. Write, first, the measure of in gredients; then give the method 'Of treatment and necessary cautions. 8. All measurements should be level. 4. State how many people the recipe Is Intended to serve. 5. Give name and address of sender. The prizes will be awarded by a com mittee of practical housewives and do mestic science teachers, selected by Miss Lillian Tingle. The Oregonian reserves the Tight to print any of the contributed recipes which fail to secure a prize. Manu scripts cannot be returned. In the event of the same recipe being sent in by different contributors, the one bearing the earliest postmark' will be given preference in awarding the prize. The topic for January will be My Best Winter Breakfast Dish." Contributors may explain in a few words the special merits of the recipe submitted, but the term "delicious" should be used as little as possible. The deliciousness may be taken for granted. The contest closes for January on January 31. . Bead Gifts. Washington (D. C) Herald. A fine fishing line Is said to be the best thing on which to thread beads, as the beads do not cut It as they do ordinary string. To knit beads into silk or wool first be careful to use needle fine-enough to go through even the smallest of the various kinds of beads to be employed. Pre pare a length of fine thread and pass both ends of the thread through the eye of the needle, thus forming A loop. through which hang the end of the wool or silk selected for knitting. I - f t ! Vf' ' I-'-., 1 I I 4 v i.A'" I . j Las -. 'i ' irlf - . - v-!?3 ' i " LI ' I Sv I m v - U - i'f1" H V Hi'., 'I -i ! - I f j if ! u V ' L ' - : .H.vf" --f i li i. :VJ ':k$r I & A ' i- -' ; ''L ' j ' f ' ' t j . t SArtPderifi s faor JteccferfAfoefy. jVERTWHKRB the note of color is rung this year, and even the new embroideries are coming out with colored patterns on white grounds in many quaint effects. The gown pic tured here, shows these colored enbrold. eries in strong shades of green and pink on a creamy ground of cotton crepe weave. The skirt and tunic, slashed at the side and fastened together again under knots of cord, and the apparently I a tunic of allover embroidery veiled careless unbuttoned bodice, are dlstlnc. I with a shorter tunic of net, set In pin- tucks alternating with .bands or vai. lace. The peplum of the tunic is of the plain net, the rich embroidery pattern showing through. Under the tunic of embroidery is a skirt of lace-trimmed net, just short enough to show the white buttoned boot of buckskin tha correct footwear for formal Summer wear. . tive Paris details. The long shoulder line with three-quarter sleeve below is also an interesting note. Nets are mounted over embroidery, and open embroideries are mounted over net. Even embroidery allovers have motifs of net Introduced here and there. This sweet little frock for a debutante hails from Paris and shows NATURE PROVIDES FOR WOMAN'S LAW DEFIANCE For years women have worn jpneu- women, who had no such vigorous ex- monla blouses in our Arctic Winters, walked about in the thinnest shoes when the streets were running with water, clothed themselves in transpar ent silk stockings in a temperature below freezing point and have sur vived. Were men to attempt . such things the death rate would go up a hundredfold. 'Women have a special layer of fat all over their bodies, thicker than man's, and acquired when humankind dwelt in caves and huts," explained the experienced doctor. "Like other men, I had often won dered how women could stand evening dresses, thin shoes, and the like in wet and cold weather," he caid. "Their skin is more tender than man's and their constitutions generally less able to stand cold and wet. ' 'Naturally they should catch cold more easily than men, I argued. But the facts all pointed the other way. Of course women do suffer for those habits, but in nothing like the propor tion that men would. 'I found that woman has all over her body a special layer of fat. Men have a layer of fat, too, but it is not nearly so thick as woman's. Fat, of course. Is the best protector against cold there is. "Here, then, was the reason why women are able, with comparative im munity, to go outr-thlnly clad in wet and cold, and run risks that would make men shiver even to think of. Then another interesting question presented itself. Has woman always had this special layer of fat 7 Was it acquired in prehistoric times, or is it merely nature's remedy for woman's Insistence on openwork stockings in bad weatherT ' .. After exhaustive inquiries and com parisons I came to the conclusion that It was acquired in times when the hu man kind dwelt in caves," said the doctor. "In those days the men were able to keep warm through exercise in the chase and in battle, while the erclse to warm their blood and enable them to resist cold, suffered accord ingly. "So Mother Nature, ever on the watch to help her children, set to work and gradually built up on women & special layer of protective fat. That took a few thousand years, probably, for na ture never works in a hurry, since time Is no object to her, but bit by bit the work was accomplished, and now women can play what seem to men foolhardy tricks with comparative immunity. "Please explain that the immunity is only comparative, for generations of civilization have to a certain . extent weakened the resistance of the human kind to cold and damp, and pneu monia blouses and openwork stock lngs have still much to answer for." Turned-Down Collar Holds Own. NEW YORK, Jan. 18. (Special.) Th narrow, turned-down white collar holds) its own, for no style of neckwear waa ever more becoming to woman. These collars are made now of very sheer, open-patterned machine embroidery in lacy effects, and usually the collar opens at either side of a narrow vest of tucked net or some similar material. These little collars are often noted on afternoon tea frocks of smoky gray or taupe-colored lansdowne whose sup. pie, silk and wool texture ia at its best in the draped effects of the moment. Comfort Eitlier Way. Boston Transcript. Mrs. Klubman If I'd knwn that you would leave me alone so much, I'd never have married you. Klubman But in that case you would have been alone a good deal more. Health and Beauty Answers BY MRS. MAE MARTY X. Cora S.: As your hair Is short and thin and you have so much trouble to make it stay up and look neat, try Bhampoolng It with a teaspoonful of canthrox dissolved in a cup of hot water. This shampoo Is the one Ken erally used by the best hairdressers to make the hair look thicker and lus trous. It produces an abundant lather, dries quickly and not only cleans the hair and scalp well, but stops all irri tation and gives the scalp, a feeling of pleasing freshness. Canthrox makes a delightful shampoo and will make your hair soft and fluffy. You will have lit tle trouble then to make your hair look nice. ' Never use soap for shampooing, as it makes the hair brittle, harsh, and takes away the glossy look . (a) To get na or aanaruri ana stop tailing nair, see reply to Lieriruae j. om THOSE Hn. NETTIE tUBBlSOKt 4-OAT Hill COLOR ll tt Mhr tnfirelr tuccessiol an latlsfactorr (reparation to STOP BRAT HAH. Slmpla, cleanly and clear at ater. Contain a Im1. ftulnhiir. or other harmful iRKreileirt. Self for trarbrreart, gteseal recommended aatlsflefl tluwa aadi. if "dret" a4 "restorer!" km disapooiifted toa. I, It Kin rata. 1.IM. M ail inigjijia flB W tala. 8KTHMORB DRUG CO. lit Third fit, Foreland. Meta D .: A delatone paste will re move the fuzz from vour lin without danger or Inconvenience. Just mix enough powdered delatooe and water to cover tne nairy suriace, apply ana after two or three minutes rub off, then wash the skin carefully. One applica tion of delatone usually suffices ex cepting where the growth Is quite thick or siuoDorn. Grace: Long, curly lashes and thick, glossy evebrown add srreatlv to ner. sonal beauty. Get a small original package of pyroxin from your drug gist and with forefinger and thumb apply a little at lash-roots; also, rub some on eyebrows with finger-end. Do this a few times and you will have ueautnui eyelashes and brows, use care and don't get any pyroxin whe'e iiu i an is wttnieu. Madam X.: Nature Intended that all women should have voluptuous fij; ues: and even though your bust 'S underdeveloped, with the famous vtucaire treatment you can soon have a figure that Is well rounded and pleas ing to look upon. You can prepare the vaucalre treatment right in your own home by dissolving lty cupfuls sugar in 1 pint water. To this add i ounce gallol and take of it 2 teaspoarfuls before meals. Keep up treatment until figure is properly developed. . Mrs. L.: What a shame to' hrtve wasted so much money in vainly trying to get rid of your fat. I have a formula that some of my close friends have trlel with marvelous success. Here it is: Dis solve four ounces of parnotis in 1 4 pints hot water; when cold -strain arid take a tablesponful of the liquid before each meal. This remedy will not in jure your healcn or force you to starve yourself in order to get bauk your comely figure. It cuts down fat rap'd ly, Is not expensive and will surely help you. Mercedes: You say your complexion Is lifeless and you are constantly tired and drowsy. This comes from too little exercise and an over-indulgence la heavy foods, causing a sluggish condi tion of the blood and a lack-of proper nourishment for the body. Here is a simple 'and inexpensive recipe for an excellent blood-tonio and body-bulider. Buy at any drug store an ounce of kar dene and put In a half-pint alcohol (not whisky), then add a half cupful sugar and hot water to make a full quart. Take a tablespoonful before each uital. This tonic expels impurities and en riches the blood. It will give you re newed energy and your complexion will assume Its natural health tint. Gertrude J.: The dandruff, itchlns scalp and brittle, falling hair with splltaT ends of which you complain coma froram i a diseased scalp, due to the presence ofv J germs. The surest way to get. rid of these troubles quickly and remove the I germs will be to shampoo twice a month v with canthrox and ruo into your scaip twice a week a quinine halr-tonio made by dissolving one ounce of quinzoin In half a pint of alcohol (not whisky), then adding half a pint of cold water. Use this tonic regularly and. it will re move the dandruff and Irritation, stop your hair from falling out and make it soft and glossy. , S. D.: Yes nothing is a more Im portant factor In a beautiful face than bright, clear, youthful eyes. You should usa rpeularlv a arood eve-tonic Get an ounce of crystos; dissolve It in a pint of water and use two or three drops In each eye aauy. it win clear ana strengthen your eyes, remove all signs of weakness and Inflammation and make them bright and sparkling. For weak. dull, expressionless eyes I think this tonic simply wonderful. It Is very soothing and is fine for those who wear glasses. G. E. A.: When you wear a veil face powder will not help your complexion much, aa it rubs off to easily. What you need Is a good lotion that will not show on th j. skin. ThA next tiron vou go to the drug store get four ounces of spurmax and 'dissolve it in one-half pint of hot water or witch hazel, add ing two teaspooncuis or glycerine, -i'nis lotion will clear un and whiten vour skin, make It soft and velvety and give you a beautiful complexion. It will rid vour -kin of that shinv. srreasv. sallow look and make it appear charming and youthful. I find this excellent for cold Bores, freckles and pimples. It costs very little and will protect- your face from the winds, and prove a splendid beautlfier. Read Mrs. Vartvs'ai book. "Beauty." 15. Adv. .
