8 THE STTNDAT OREGOXIAN. PORTLAND. JAXUART 13,' 1913., EMBROIDERY DESIGN FOR LINGERIE AND BAG 1 .mmm ... , : Si ., w J?iL, I : o ) II ii . o V 0 A- - i -dp a - All - "TV : . i j .. " c. ' xi kilf : This attractive design is worked out in the new cut-work and eyelet embroidery, the bowknot being worked in the cut work, and the flowers in either the eyelet or a French embroidery. In the cut work the decign is first carefully buttonholed, then, after it is laundered, cut out closely around the buttonholes. There are two ways to apply the designs to material upon which you wish to work them. If your material is sheer such as handkerchief linen, lawn, batiste, and the like SPHERE OF THE UNIVERSITY BY RALPH J5HAFER. ? Professor of History, University of Oregon. (Paper read before the college and nor mal section of Western Oregon Teachers' : Association.) T HE safety, prosperity and progres sive development of a democratic commonwealth all depend upon the education which the society provides for the successive generations of its peo ple. We use the term education broad ly to describe the sum of those influ ences which operate upon men with the result either of training or en lightenment. Hence the institutions of education would here Include the home, the church, the shop and the market to name no others as well as the schools. Some societies both In ancient and mediaeval times relied mainly upon the natural educational agencies, like the home, the church and the industrial and commercial organs. But these were static societies, in which each new generation was expected to fol lowing undeviatingly the orbit of Its predecessor in life habit, vocational activities, thought planes and thought ranges. Our 20th century democracy, "which by contrast is dynamic, demand ing progress as authoritatively as an cient societies demanded conformity, cannot so easily equip Its generations, each of which is destined to follow a course partly distinct from those of all Its predecessors. We have accordingly come to rely mainly upon artificial in stitutions called schools, where educa- 1 lion is supposed to be directed to the two great objects of fitting young per sons for activity in the life of today and providing them at the same time with the means of adjustment to the probably different life of tomorrow. Hence the commonwealth's interest, which is becoming daily more absorb ing, in the business of education through specialized inttltutional agen cies. The problem set us by your commit tee is to mark off the sphere of one of those agencies, the State University. But since the State University Is ad mittedly the apex of our educational system, and therefore necessarily con ditioned by and related to all other parts of the system, a comprehensive mode of treatment is called for. Edu cational institutions, like other inven tions, come In response to social needs, and one way to determine the functions of differing institutions is to ascertain the different fields of service open to them. What. then. are. the fundamental needs of a democratic state to which school education should minister? First, for safety, a moralized Intelligence .which Is practically universal and which has in it an Indefinite expan sibilitv dependent on opportunity, In centive and Individual gifts. Second, for prosperity, a universalized Ideal of efficiency with the training calculated to realise that ideal. Third, for pro gressive development, an inherent ad justability, a social mutability if pre ferred, which signalizes on the one hand the conscious striving for ever higher Ideals of social perfection, and on the other an attitude of responsive ness to wise leadership wherever it may be found. The educational system cannot create leadership, which is one of God's choicest gifts to men, but It can and does afford opportunity for its development both directly, by means of higher instruction, and indirectly by placing at the command of all the specialized knowledge which In the hand of the natural leader becomes a tool to the workman the very word of creative purpose. A generation ago it was commonly thought that the first-named need of a "moralized Intelligence- which is practically universal" could be sup plied by the agency called the common school, in which children learned the rudiments of science under the cus tomary forms of reading, writing and ciphering. Literacy, it was widely held, implied morality, and the blend of these two constituted the sheet anchor of democratic government. The mastery of the rudiments, moreover, under the intellectual stimulation incident to our form of government, was looked upon as a sort of guarantee of "Indefinite expansibility." provided there was any thing in the Individual mind to expand. The motto was: "Give a boy a good common school education and then let him root fol'himself." Today we doubt both the moral and the intellectual implications of mere "literacy," while our Ideals of ef ficiency have advanced so far on the one hand and on the other the con vulutions of the environing social life have multiplied so rapidly that we have utterly lost faith In the saving efficacy of our once cherished doctrine of the rudiments. The rudiments may be well enough as rudiments, we ad mit, but to develop morality the moral precepts learned from the readers must become habit in the life, and to secure vital intelligence, which is self-sustaining and progressive, there must like wise be the formation of an Intellectual habit. Education, we insist, has to do with the building of such habits to ward which the mere laying on of rudiments may contribute as little as the laying on of hands in a mimic cere monial. To put it positively, education is a dynamic process, or rather complex of processes, each feature of which must be carried far enough to become self sustaining. Thus play, lifted .to the plane of habit under the motive of maintaining the body in fittest con dition for the service of the mind, be comes the dynamic form of physical education at the same time that it serves as a laboratory for the training of the social virtues of fairness, poise, good-fellowship and self-control. That instruction In reading, which makes It satisfy curiosity, bring new data to the inquiring mind, serve the interests ot all the practical activities, open vistas Into the future, and transmit to th soul glimpses of the "far- land," is genuinely dynamic because it holds the promise of progressive widening ana deepening of the intellectual and moral life, with a harmonious development also of the vocational efficiency of the individual. So, likewise, is that In dustrial training dynamic which by actualizing the concept of the dignit of labor makes a truer democracy, and by elevating work to the plane of a handicraft, implying skill, pride In ef ficiency, and an eager desire to achieve promotes Independence, self-respect and the progressive growth of both general Intelligence and morality. It follows that the so-called "com ' OUTLINE, EYEliET. SATIN AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES. the simplest method is to lay the material over the design and with a well - pointed pencil draw over each line. If your material is heavy, secure a piece of transfer or im pression paper. Lay it face down upon this, then draw over each line of the paper de sign with a hard pencil or the point of a steel knitting needle. Upon lifting the pattern and transfer paper you will find an accurate Impression of the design upon your material. There are two points to observe In this simple process if you would execute it satis mon school" education, even when it is of the best quality, falls below the re quirements of our age because it neces sarily stops short of the development of firm life habits which mean char acter. Such habit forming takes place largely in the period just above the common school age, OT in what is called the high school period, which would suggest that the school Influence should follow the child several years at least from the point at which the com mon school drops him. This period, too, from 14 to 18, is pre cisely the stage of life in which the vocational appeal comes to the youth and in whicn, therefore, he can learn a trade or business most economically from every point of view. If he learns it then he is permanently n the ranks of the efficient workers; if he neglects it, he may be ranked with the ineffi cients, or the nonproductive, notwith standing al". the attention lavished upon his general education, for he may be unfitted by nature for any of the intellectual callings toward which alone his preparation leads. I am in clined to believe that It would be to the Interest of a democratic society like ours to provide an opportunity for every boy and girl to learn a trade dur ing the high school period. Not that every one would necessarily be bene fited by taking advantage of such an opportunity, though the majority doubtless would be. Those who early manifest a pronounced absorption in intellectual or artistic concerns and who glimpse their future careers along such lines might in many cases find the turning aside for an incidental vo cation unprofitable. But many even of this class would relish some trade school work and they could probably carry it easily In addition to the or dinary college preparatory or other cultural high. school course. I confess It would be a satisfaction to me as a father who naturally has hopes for his sons, to see every one of them school trained to a trade. And herein I voice the sentiment of a large proportion of parents. - Now, there is no denying the fact that American commonwealths are onty just awakening to the significance of such industrial training. Up to. now our Ideals of efficiency have been mainly such as are characteristic of frontier communities rather than of fully de veloped industrial societies. We have cast aside the old expensive, mediaeval system of apprenticeship and have sub stituted for it nothing definite or gen erally effective, assuming rather the attitude that American cleverness is a sufficient substitute for training. We have blinked the facts of the wide spread disinclination among our people to settled employment of any kind, with the resultant loss to production; the bad work bo characteristic of many American craftsmen who lack that pro fessional spirit which Idealizes true workmanship; the unfitness for self support, on a respectable basis, of so large a proportion of the supposedly well-educated class. It has often been pointed out that the last-named evil is becoming aggravated every day. owing to the increasing absorption of our peo ple by the cities where children grow up without learning the de tails of any regular occupation, whereas formerly .the vast majority of them actually learned the trade of agricul ture, albeit in many cases very crudely. IN OREGON'S EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM WTe are now seeking a corrective to these errors of the past, and we find it in institutions organized on the trade school basts for the training of boys and girls of high school age. We are beginning to see that the high school, so tar from being a mere fitting school for the colleges, should be a fitting school for life as it manifests Itself in the local community complex in its character, or simple, as the community life suggests, but in all cases deter mined by the leading interests of the community, which, in turn, fix the vo cational destinies of the majority of 'those seeking secondary school train ing. And this training is coming to be looked upon as a continuation of the common school training in a more in tensive fashion and with a more clearly differential aim. Thus in some rural communities the pupils leave the com mon school to enter the agricultural high school, where the theoretical as well as the practical side of their fu ture vocations is inculcated under ideal conditions as to equipment, teaching force and laboratory facilities. We re cently found the students of one of the admirable county agricultural high schools in Wisconsin conducting a com mercial creamery. These students go out to the farms of the county to in spect the livestock, study modes of tillage best adapted to the different soils, make plans for drainage systems and other farm improvements. They build silos for the farmers, thus ef fectuallzlng their knowledge of con crete work and Incidentally saving the farmer about one-half of the usual cost of his silo. In some small cities the mechanical trades are emphasized, the high school course being built about these trades which are taught partly in the schools and partly In the shops of the city. The students earn money as workers In these shops during their high school course and nevertheless get 'credit" tor the work as a part of their school education a condition of things the bare suggestion of which would produce heart failure in a certain well known type of schoolmaster. It is high time for Oregon as a com monwealth to systematically promote the development of vocational high schools. The coming' Legislature could serve the people well by bringing in a well-digested law providing state aid to communities which are prepared to take the initiative along these lines. Such legislation should leave the com munity absolutely free to determine the dominant character of its schools according to local needs, but It should provide for adequate Inspection to guarantee the quality of the . work done, whether the school be an agricul tural trade school, a mechanical trade school, a domestic science trade school, a commercial trade school or any other type or combination type of vocational school. What the state is interested in is to secure high efficiency in the body of its producers along all the lines of development on which Its future great ness depends. The new State of Arizona has set us a good example In Its high school law, which grants aid to any community supporting a satisfactory vocational school, whatever the voca tion favored by the community. But it was stated above that a demo cratic society requires, for its progres sive development, "an Inherent adjust ibllity" signalizing a striving toward the ideal and a responsiveness to wise leadership. By means of education we seek to develop the native qualities of leadership and also indirectly to pro vide the materials with which true leadership everywhere works out its particular Ideal of social betterment. To secure this adjustibility Is the high est function of a democratio education al system in our age, because it is this which guarantees the future of the democratic state. Let me repeat, the age Is dynamic. It is characterized by the fact of con stant change under the motive of im provement. No period of the world's history is In this respect exactly par allel to our own. Changes have some times come as rapidly, perhaps even more rapidly in particular directions, but they have never been so nearly the normal conditions of every feature of the human environment or of human life itself. Tradition rightly exercises a restraining Influence, but Its claim of authority is widely disregarded and in truth Is being put forth In tones growing progressively weaker. No better illustration of the age tendencies need be presented to a body of teachers than the condition of edu cation itself. Is there a single feature of the system, or an item in its mode of operation., that today escapes the most searching criticism? Moreover, is it not plain to all that our educational institutions are in the mild agonies of evolutionary change? The very act of conceiving them under the older categories is Intellectually mischievous. The common school, the high school, the normal school, the college and university all today find their metal in the melting pot of public -criticism, and the significant, question about each is, not "What was It?" or even "What is It?" but "What is it going to be?" And so with nearly every other in stitution coming down from the past along the highway or the bypaths of social tradition. The government of the state itself, through which the people exercise the high function of self-rule, is changing in essential character as In outward structure. The municipality, with its multifarious ac tivities, is changing; its government Is being readjusted to the needs of today, and old forms, methods and activities are passing. The county, the township, the school district, road district; the social organizations, the eleemosynary Institutions, the religious institutions, the commercial and Industrial Institu tions all are undergoing changes, and many of them are being transformed under the same resistless striving for better adjustment to social needs. Under these conditions, what will suffice as a chart to govern society's further navigation in search of the Blessed Isles? Only wisdom, nothing ut wisdom! "Give us wisdom or we perish!" cried Carlyle in his day. and for our bhoof that cry should arise more persistently and more clam orously. The need is wise leadership, together with a popular attitude of re sponsiveness to wise leadership. I recognize the undefined term in this formula, and I am mindful of the difficulty of showing Just what wise leadership is. But whatever it may be, assuredly It Is not Ignorant leadership, and against ignorant leadership so ciety can Insure Itself by a proper in vestment In higher education. Per-, factorily. One is to see that your material is level cut and folded by a thread and that your design is placed upon it evenly at every point. The second is, when placed accurate ly, secure the design to the material with thumb tacks or pins, so it cannot slip during the operation. Do not rest your hand or fingers upon any part of the design you are transferring, else the imprint of your fingers will be as distinct as the drawn lines of the design. haps it should be pointed out that ignorance in a leader is not equivalent to illiteracy. A man may be most lit erate or even well read to appearances, and still be mischievously, destructive ly ignorant for the purposes of lead ership. Without special knowledge to cover special problems, and an attitude of mental responsibility, no man is equipped for leadership. By higher education we do not Imply the education offered In any one of the existing institutions, for, as now or ganized, no Institution has a monopoly in that kind of education. Aside from any immediately practical or conven tional values, I mean by higher educa tion that cultural process which most completely liberates the native powers of the mind and habituates the mind, rendered free in action, to the guid ance of ascertained principles and abundant knowledge. In addition to their function of train ing Individuals, our institutions of higher education are coming to be re lied on for that investigative function whose aim Is to assemble the best at tainable data upon every vital problem affecting the life of the commonwealth. Such knowledge Is thus made available to all who can use it for the guidance of themselves or others. Through men of higher school training In part, through self-trained natural leaders In part, through the sane reactions of the body of citizens, it becomes the ef fective means of securing safely the in finite adjustments and readjustments incident to our passionate urging to ward the better social order. Our institutions of higher education must train the investigators; they must train administrators who will carry for ward the work of Investigation even while applying to practical problems principles already ascertained; they must train the men and women of the professions, as the teachers, the min isters, the engineers, the lawyers, phy sicians,. Journalists. Not that none will enter these callings save through col lege doors, but the institutions of higher learning are the normal train ing ground for the professions, effective service in which implies: First Good native ability. Second Severe training, coupled with a soul enlarging Intellectual experience, which should develop insight and result in, third, the power and disposition to solve intellectual problems ' as a reg ular feature of the dally life. This gives us a very distant remove from the state of the natural man and Im plies long years of devotion to the things of the mind. Thus it comes about that preparation, tor the strictly professional careers In our day gen erally takes place on the basis of a preliminary training, which amounts to the equivalent of from four to eight years above the. common school. Once more the spirit of these remarks Is not "no others can enter," but rather "few others succeed in entering," and those few should be acclaimed as the choicest fruits of natural selection. Shall elementary teaching be classed among the professions, or shall It be ranked as & trade pursued' in the pro fessional spirit (which is also the spirit of the true master craftsman) and un der the professional guidance? It is possibly worth while to raise the ques tion, even though it be not answered here. If it Is a trade, then so far as I can see there is no exception to the rule that professional training begins on the educational plateau rather than on its plains, and employs methods in harmony with that fact. Ey way of summary, what, of all the, work described, should properly fall to the State University? First It Is a place for training In vestigators and for making researches bearing upon the varied social prob lems clamoring for solution. This field is peculiarly its own, though It recog nizes and welcomes the participation of other institutions fitted to perform por tions of It. - Second It Is a place of preparation) for all the usual professions and it should probably train also for a com ing profession of state and city ad ministrator. Third It promotes the common weal by throwing the light of publicity on, problems previously Investigated by professors or students, as for example) the problem of good roads, of the con servation end utilization of state owned water power, the problem of workmen's compensation and employ ers" liability. Fourth Through extension lectures) and correspondence courses, it alms ta assist the upward struggle of the peo pie everywhere. Fifth It tries to help forward tb organization of forces hitherto latent which are calculated to promote the general welfare in any large way, as by bringing the public schools to real ize their true functions as centers of community service. Sixth It alms to promote educational organization In the Interest of greater efficiency as in setting forth facta favoring the establishment of voca tional high schools. The university stands for the service of the commonwealth to which It looks for support. It does not profess to be lieve itself perfectly equipped as yet for every branch of service normal to its life, nor does It pretend that others can perform properly no portion of the service called for. It confesses the sav ing doctrine of modern social life co operation. It recognizes frankly -certain problems in higher educational organization in this state, and I feel safe in pledging its investigation and its general co-operation towards the solution of these problems, as of all others. In the Interest of the whole people of Oregon. JOSEPH SCHAFER. University of Oregon, December, 1911 A New Sachet. Cincinnati Tribune. A new sachet which Is quite Frenchy is made by folding a piece of satin in the form of a small envelope. A flat piece of wadding the same size, which has been opened and powdered with sachet, is slipped Into the envelope. A small print of a French court lady Is pasted on the envelope, it Is first surrounded with a piece of gold lace, the edge of which is pasted to the back, of the picture. Pink satin envelopes with these pie ture seals are very effective. One-half dozen of these sachets would make a lovely gift, as they are Just the thing to tuck among dainty lingerie) and dress accessories.