THE SUNDAY OKKtiOXIAf, PORTLAIfD, JANUARY 12, 1913. WEALTHY BREWER'S DAUGHTER MAKES FORMAL BOW TO ST. LOUIS SOCIETY Eessie Abott's Marriage to T. Waldo Story Is Still Katter cf Mystery Mrs. Gertrude A. Lee First Woman Mem ber of Electoral College Phoebe Hearst Distributes $100,000 Woman Holds High Post in New Mexico. riL t 0i m wlsa- A' l ' t ILr? fill . V 4 ! ' Ik , IE.- - '..Jill l rp-r - NEW YORK, Jan. 11. (Special.) Miss Marie Buseh, eldest daugh ter of August A. Busch and granddaughter of Adolphus Busch. of St. Louis, recently made her debut In society In that city at a ball which eclipsed all similar functions given In St. Louis for some time. The floral decorations cost $5000 and the food and wine about J3000. Miss Busch Is the Qrst of August Busch's daughters to become a debutante. ' The reported marriage of Bessie Abott. American opera singer, to T. Waldo Story, the sculptor, has never been cleared up. The marriage Is sup posed to have 'taken place In Europe, but Just when and where is not known. It Is understood that Mrs. Gertrude A. Lee will be designated by the Col orado electors, who meet shortly after the New Tear, as the elector to take the votes of the last election to Wash ington. If this distinction Is shown SAUCILY POISED TRIMMINGS ARE FEATURES , OF LATEST MILLINERY Shapes Are Soft and Yielding, bnt Decorations Stiff and Bakishly Inclined "Scraped Ostrich" Is Absolutely Newest Fad in Paris Willow Plumes May Be Transformed With Striking Effect. NEW YORK. Jan. 11. There Is a pronounced contrast between bats and hat trimmings this season; and between the fundamental millinery style Idea of this and other seasons. Shapes used to be Inflexible and all the softness and grace In the bat was in the trimming. Now It Is the shape that Is yielding an pliant, and the trimming gives the effect of being stiff it shoots off backward, curls raklshly sideward or pokes up saucily skyward at the front of the hat. A season or so ago what a hat shape was It was; and nothing but the press or's Iron could make the brim take any other movement than the one Intended by the original creator of that shape. One bad to make the unbending hat be coming to her personal beauty attri butes or less trying to their absence by tilting the brim one way or an other and by arranging the trimming more or less flatteringly. Nowadays one may do anything with a bat; the oft brim may be bent down here, or caught up there; or dragged inward at the back, behind the ear, to take the proper line; and the even softer tarn crown of velvet, plush or fur has In finite possibilities of becoming adjust, ment. One relies now on the way the hat Is put on for Us becomingness and style, and a certain knowing character is given by the skilful placement of the trimming. For and Tulle Combined. There Is something particularly sug gestive of luxury In the combination of fur with lace or airy tulle, and this Winter these effects are much fancied, and every pelt in the animal kingdom has Its representation on mid-Winter millinery. Skunk fur bands encircle big sailor shapes of velvet with crowns of gold lace, a red rose nestling against the furry band at one side .on some hats worn by younger women. It is easy to fashion a hat of this sort or to add the gold lace crown, fur band and rose to a model of black velvet, and the fin ished effect is -both smart and grace ful. Other dark velvet hats have frills of pleated tulle lying flat on the brim and a fur band low around the crown. One model of this sort, with a very limp, soft brim of velvet, has six tulle flounces under the brim and projecting an inch or so beyond its edge. The lay ers of tulle are, of course, tacked down to the soft velvet brim, only the edges falling free. The effect Is Indescrib ably soft and becoming to the face. Scraped Oatrlch Is Fad. "See my new hat with seven ostrich feathers," said a woman recently re turned from abroad, to a friend at lun cheon the other day. The friend looked, and beheld a very tiny chapeau of satin with the new Vlrot point at the back of the brim, and at one side of the hat a small, rather depressed-looking orna ment, which appeared to be a limp 111 - M .111. . . . .. ., .1 .. "T. ). .. .. qUIU Ul BlltV lui wun. ."do III o BCVUU long, handsome ostrich feathers In that vhinn of a thing, my dear." asserted the late arrival from Paris. I know Mrs. Lee she will be the first woman to take the vote of a state to the meet ing of Congress which counts the bal lots for President. She was named as one of Colorado's electors November 5, and became the first of her sex ever elected to represent the people of any state In the direct balloting for Pres ident. Mrs. Phoebe Apperson Hearst's Christmas gift to the gold miners at work on the Homestake mines, of which she is the principal owner, at Deadwood, S. T.. was $100,000, which she had distributed . among the em ployes. Mrs. Hearst Is the widow of the late Senator George Hearst and mother of William Randolph Hearst. She is known all over the United States for her philanthropic work. Only two years out of the Kansas Agricultural College and now holding the highest office that a woman can have in New Mexico, Is the attainment of Miss Manette Myers, whose home is It seems incredible, but that despondent-looking quill Is one of the most chio and expensive hat trimmings In Paris at this minute. It Is called scraped ostrich, and the stems of seven plumes were scraped clean of feathery 'plumage and mounted again on a cen tral stem to make the quill." The Virot type of hat, with its closely fitting "skull crown" and Its saucy bit of a brim. Is much fancied for after noon wear with the smart taileur; but the average American woman and In variably the American husband pre fers something more striking In the way of a hat with elaborate and for mal costumes. Again, in the big hats for restaurant and evening wear, It is the shape that gives the dominant line and character to the hat, and even when very hand some ostrich plumes are used they are as likely as not to be tossed on the edge of the brim with seeming care lessness, the tips curling under the brim and forming a background for the curve of the cheek, rather than a dis tinct trimming motif for the hat. In deed, feathers tumbling over the brim are the most notable millinery style of the Winter and a very graceful style It Is, for these picturesque and artistic hats are becoming to all faces and make many faces with little claim ENGLISH' BOOT MUCH IN VOGUE IN SOUTHLAND Ultra Smart Shoe of Next Summer Has Pointed Toe. NEW YORK, Jan. 4. (Special.) The boots selected for use with Southland gowns and lingerie frocks teli the story of next Summer's footwear styles. The ultra smart boot of the moment has the long, pointed toe and rather receding effect at the instep much in contrast to the stubby toed boot with bulging Instep arch recently exploited. These new "English" boots as they are sometimes called because this sort of foot long, tapering and narrow, considered patrician in English circles where blue blood is the most Important consideration are as yet to be had only In high-priced models and they have a truly aristocratic look in a window full of more passe boots end shoes. The patent leather wajking boot with a buttoned top of dull calf is the fa vored model for traveling and general wear with the smart tailored suit or gown for the South; and a low-topped buttoned boot of tan leather is worn with short-skirted outing costumes. These boots are made of a new tan leather which may be washed clean with a sponge and ordinary soap with no Injury to color or luster, and are admirable for the traveler. Another style of outing footwear in the shape of a tie with very low tennis or yacht ing heel is Illustrated and also a white in Raton, that state. Miss Myers re cently was appointed state director of Industrial education with an office in the capitol building in -Albuauerque. The appointment came unsolicited af ter she had. achieved success as a teach er of domestic science and art In the high school of Albuquerque. Miss Myers came to the Kansas Agrl cultural College in 1906 and completed a four-year course In home economics in 1910. She will begin work at her new post the first of the year. - " Dr. Yamel Kin Is one of the most progressive women In China. ' Just now she is In America for the purpose of giving a series of lectures throughout the country on the new republic and on the women of China. Sr. Kin is head of the Women's Medical School and Hospital at Tientsin. She has a great deal of Influence over the young women of her country and has done a great deal for them. She says that the effect of the revolution Is only to be seen along the southern coast and around big cities. . to either youth or loveliness several degrees more Interesting and piquant. Paradise plumage Is the most exclusive and aristocratic trimming one can have on a Winter bat, but only the woman who has an unlimited . bank account may afford genuine Paradise now, for the price of this sort of trimming has become appalling. Willow Plume Transformed. There are, of course, many substi tutes and Imitations, but the genuine paradise is unmistakable In Its grace and delicacy, and If one may not have it, the wiser course Is to select some quite different sort of trimming. The woman who paid from $10 to $20 for a willow feather season before last and now bemoans her ill luck and her inability to pay an equal price for desirable French plumes, may take heart of grace, for something may be done with the depressed-looking wil low, after all, to bring it up to the class of the gaily curling French feather. Many a willow plume this season has been made over Into an os trich wreath, and two plumes will make a very attractive wreath, long enough to go all around a velvet hat. The ends are clipped from the willow plume, just above the knot, and the shortened plumes are curled up evenly. TV 1 4& Newest Thtnaa In Footwear. buckskin buttoned boot for wear with embroidery and lace frocks of a lin gerie character. This makes a rather narrow but fluffy wreath of feathers, and these narrow wreaths are laid flat within the curl of the wide hat brim, but are not poised against the crown, which is usually a soft draped or tarn affair. One or two small and not. too ex pensive ' French tips, curling over the brim at one side near the back, com plete a perfectly up-to-date hat; and the number of these ostrich wreaths seen on midwinter millinery models seems to demonstrate that something has been done with hopelessly passe willows, after alL Pnr Cape a Mld-AVintrr Feature. With the beginning of cold weather, after Christmas, fur hats always make their appearance in New York fashion able circles, and this season the little fur head coverings are the most fetch ing things Imaginable. The large fur turban is a thing of the past Indeed, fur hats are not built over frames at all they are soft little caps which fit the head to a nicety, and which may be folded up and tucked into a hand bag, so daintily are they fashioned and so velvety and soft are the pelts used. Moleskin is, of course, the favorite fur for these little caps, though one sees also caps of sealskin, of broadtail and even of plush with fur trimming at the edge. The sealskin or moleskin cap with an ermine band, and perhaps a little ermine tail or two clustered at one side is the favorite style and the cap Is drawn down very closeLy over the head and ears, the hair beneath being dressed as compactly as pos sible. A cap of this sort, made of moleskin with ermine trimmings, was worn at Sherry's the other afternoon by a pretty young girl in - a smoke gray gown of landsdowne, a once ra miliar fabric, revived this season be cause of its exquisite draping quali ties. Patent leather boots with but toned tops of smoke gray suede matched the gray gown and a big moleskin muff was touched up with ermine In effective style. Another lansdowne gown was noted at the same restaurant, the costume this time being worn by a youthful matron. The gown was in taupe shade and was matched by boots with but toned tops of taupe cloth. The fur cap was the dominant" feature of the costume and was of sealskin, fitted closely over the head, with a superb pale yellow Paradise aigrette trailing off at one side. Tapestry blue ribbon with a picot edge is used on many mid-Winter hats in combination with deep pink roses and perhaps a touch of fur. Such a hat was noted at the Waldorf at tea hour the other day, and the tapestry blue ribbon exactly matched the blue eyes under the wide hat brim. A smart little neckbow of the tapestry blue ribbon was tucked under the cliin, on the blouse of sheer all-over embroidery worn with the tailored suit. The Discarded Walnut Bracket The black walnut bracket, long ago banished as old-fashioned, unsightly, even useless. Is reappearing among house furnishings. It Is found to be Just the thing to display a modest lit tie collection of trinkets or small curios. One carved bracket picked up In a second-hand shop is being used by its new owner to hold dozens of tiny for eign silver articles representations of musical instruments, boxes, furniture and animals. In another home, where cloisonne is a hobby, little boxes, tea pots, vases and traps of this ware are displayed on a three-shelf bracket, hunir low. so that the trinkets can be handled and enjoyed. The owner did not want to put her collection in a glass cabinet, and the long discarded parlor bracket fills the need fittingly. On the shelves she has laid strips of rich blue and gold Oriental embroidery, a perfect setting for the little ebony stands on which the choice pieces of Chinese bric-a-brac are placed. Still another woman has a little gal lery of her family photographs, a dozen or more, in heavy silver frames ar ranged together on one of these old brackets, which hangs in a conspicuous place in her morning room. A pair of old brackets of generous dimensions have been covered with a coat of white enamel paint and are do ing service In a blue and white nur sery, where ' they hold an Interesting collection of curious dolls from many countries. The small single brackets with carved, tapering underpieces, are pretty in bedrooms, hung near old-time dress Ing tables. In one room on such i bracket, the owner has her grand father's snuffbox standing in front of a miniature of her grandmother. Just a single brass candlestick is' quite quite enough decoration for one of the brackets. Menus for One Week Tuesday. Vegetable troth. Braised heart, stuffed. German noodles. Chopped kale. Orange salad. Chocolate junket with cream. Coffee. , Wednesday. Cream of oyaterplant soup. Minced heart In Spanish saucs. Red beans. Rice. Lettuce salad. JeUied fruit. Coffee. Thursday. Tomato bouillon. .-Broiled iteak. French potatoes. Cauliflower. Chicory salad. Brown Betty. Coffee. Friday. Bean soup. Nut and potato loaf: cheese aaoca. Vegetable salad. Cranberry pudding. Coffee. Saturday. Celery soup. Corned beef Jardiniere of vegetables. Creamed potatoes. Lettuce salad. Apple pie. Coffee. Sunday. 4 Clear soup. Roast leg of lamb. Brown potatoes. Beets in Dutch style. Celery and grapefruit fried salad. Pate cream with nuts. Coffee. Monday. Cream nf beet soup. Lamb reheated in brown soaee. Potato border. Scalloped celery. Celery and apple salad. Orange jelly. Coffee. Xeedlcbook for Workbag. Exchange. A needlebook for the work bag. which is rather unique. Is made of 20 half-inch brass rings covered with double crochet. Join the rings to form a diamond. first one, then two, then three and then four, four again in the next row, then three, two and one. Fold this - diamond In the center. crosswise, then cut triangular-shaped pieces of flannel for the needlebook. and place inside the fold. Fasten a bow of ribbon at each corner of tie fold. A tiny cushion, made of silk, ma th ins; the crocheted rings in color, is cut In & circular shape. Gather the edges of the silk, fill with cotton, draw the edges up closely and place a cov ered button over the gathering string in the center. These two little workbag accesso ries, will make a nice gift, for it is of ten these little sewing necessities that one does not take the trouble to make,, FEATHER FLOWERS NEW FAD IN MILLINERY ART Paris Smart Dressers Take to Craze for Downy, Plume-Like Blooms. Trimming Is Durable and Windproof When Properly Made. FEATHER FLOWERS, ARIS, Jan. 11. (Special.) Blos soms with tiny feathered petals put together in life-like--which means flower-like, not bird-like ef feet will be the feature of Spring mil linery. These feathery posies have al ready appeared on hats for Riviera wear, and the notion has taken so that orders for 'thousands. more of the pret ty blossoms have been sent to Vienna where these new trimmings are made. Each flower Is a masterpiece of pa tience and skill, for the feathers, after being dyed, in the correct colors, are mounted, one upon the other, until the complete blossom has been perfected. At the right of the picture Is a smart cockade arrangement of feather flowers for the front of a Spring turban. The roses are in deep American Beauty FROCK OR CUTAWAY IS ON LONDON'S DISCARD Dugdale Telia of Decay of the Topper, and What to Wear in Morning, Scoring Monstrosity of Protruding Soles Lace Boots Quite Correct. BY "DUGDALE." ONDON, Jan. 11. (Special.) We Londoners are not wearing the frock or- cutaway coat and topper to nearly the same extent as yesterday, In fact, many stockbrokers, bankers and members of the House of Parlia ment are discarding the silk hat for the bowler or derby hat and the morn ing or lounge coat. This appears to me to be a move in the right direction. The topper never looks its proper and dignified self at luncheon time after the morning business scramble and one with its coat bristling out Is just the step from sublimity to absurdity And how easily this comes about. One knock, or if the hat be laid incau tlously on the table or hung on the tack, will do it. London business men of the better type are now coming to see that during office hours" the best garb is the one which is the most practical. There are a few rich merchants who ars go ing even a step farther and wearing a felt Alpine hat. But that Is, of course not proper for town use at any stage of the game except perhaps, on arrival at one's office "en- auto," when. a? so often occurs nowadays, one mo tors to business from one's country place. But then these are a vast mm. ority for few men have the luxury of a country house within an hour's motor ride of their business. This one lux ury is putting up the sale of country houses within 20 miles of London by leaps and bounds. With the morning suit in town a black bowler is the only correct thing. the rim must be well curled upward, and not too wide. The ribbon, as I've remarked before, should be a "natural, not a "made-up" bow this always lends the hat a distinction that a cheap affair cannot have. The bowlar hat, In England, Is about twice the weight of its American cousin it can stand far more usage, but it gives some men a headache. I myself prefer the Bng llsh bowler it may be because I'm more used to it. But one thing I ore fer in its American prototype is the absence of that white satin arrange ment inside. ' Except for a Kuseian leather sweat band, the interior of my bowler Is quite without tapestry of any kind. And, in fact, they have only my own Initials In gold lettering on the nner crown. I do not even al!ow my hatter to adveTtise In them In any way. Morning Trousers Turn Lp. I usually have my morning trousers a bit over long, to be turned up. I do not believe I should do this if I lived In the crisp air of New York City, but in London damp and slush it is always necessary. And 1 don't dislike the appearance of it even in the bouse. A great number uf the older type of club men and some sol diers wear "spats." But I myself do not like the Idea If one s feet, as I m told does happen with age become cold, on that ground they may be per missible. But not otherwise. The only spats" that are really smart are white ones and in J,ondon, Dy luncheon rime, they often are no longer Immaculate. And the rub comes in this; they can't be changed at a restaurant. In the afternoon en frock I sometimes do wear white undressed buckskin spats but not often. I prefer, if anything. black patent leather boots with white or brown undressed buckskin uppers and black laces. As to the morning or lounging suit Itself. For business I invariably wear a dark blue or grayish material often with a walstcoast to match, but fre quently with a waistcoat of some striped pattern, the stripe, of course. betnir vertical. If there is any one thing above all others that well-groomed men abhor it is the frightful designs of humming waistcoats inferior tailors often press upon their customers. An excellent design for business Is the old pepper and salt It has the attributes of the bubbling brook and, no doubt, TV :?Ti J.. J.TJEV ' MS NEW MIMaJTERY CRAZE. shade and are massed closely together. Above them Is a wired spray of pan sies in pale yellow and purple, each little pansy face being marked out with a layer of darker feathers over the paler tint. At the left of the cockade is a large cluster of roses and buds in Jacqueminot red shade, with leaves In natural green, the leaves being the ordinary sort used with millinery flow ers and not being fashioned of feath ers. Above this spray is a shaded rose boutonniere with pink buds, and at the top -of the picture are scarlet pop pies with yellow centers. These feath er flowers are so beautifully made that they are very durable. The Spring breezes will not blow them out of shape, and the carefully dyed colors will not fade readily under warm Spring sunshine, r I will go 'on forever. I am also partial vertical stripes herringbone and ottw ers. The coat sleeve should be turned back two or two and a half inches and have either two or three buttons. It is absurd for any man to consider him self not correctly dressed If his coat has three buttons, because a penny-a-liner in his "Beau Brummel" column says it must be three, or vice versa. The jacket should always have only three buttons down the front and so cut as not to give the figure a "wooden" appearance. It should be cut in at the waist only slightly. The morning waist coat should have never more or less than five buttons, and should never have a collar, as that has quite gone out of fashion. On a fancy waistcoat the buttons can be made by a jewler but must always match the shade of the material and never be "loud." For in stance, I have several dozen sets of handsome jeweled buttons but few of these would I consent to wear except in the afternoon. I invariably have four loops of 2 inches wide around the outside of my trousers for the purpose of holding a pigskin money belt I al ways carry in the daytime not be cause It is a money belt, but because, being of double pigskin, it Is of the utmost comfort. In Summer I often lounge about In the country without a waistcoat at all like the Americana At these times I wear no braces or "suspenders." And, as I have said be fore, the brace buttons being on the inside of the trousers waist, are not seen. This is ,of course, a detail. But all such details are observed by men who pride themselves on dress. Men's "pads" are so different that I WOMAN'S HAIR REACHES TO KNEES A Tear Ago Wai Threatened With Bald- Tells How She Made Her Hair Grow. Mrs. Bather Emery, now visiting' friends In the city, is the fortunate possessor of marvel oofily beautiful hair, which, when loosed from its coils, falls to her kneea. Moreover it is of soft, silky and fluffy tex ture and in color a glorious glossy gold. Yet just one year ago she was threatened with baldness. Urged to tell how she had obtained this wonderful growth in so short a time, she said : "Had anyone told me surh marvelous results could be accom plished so quickly, I positively would not have believed it. Twelve months ago my hair, which tnn reached barely to my shoulders, was falling out at an alarming rate and growing very thin, actually ex posing the bald scalp in several spots. It was dull and lifeless in color, turning gray in patches, and very dry and brittle. My head was covered with dandruff and itched like mad all the time. I tried fully a dozen different hair tonics, but they were all the same and never did me a bit of good. One day 1 chanced to read in my home pager of a simple home prescription to make the hair grow that was recom mended by a well known physician. It said that by tak ing ord inary Xa vona d Composes and mixing with Bay Rum and Menthol Crystals and applying to the scalp each night with the finger "tips that new hair would grow very rapidly. I decided to try it and I had my druggist mix 2 oz. of the Lavona de Composee with 6 oz. of Bay Rum and dr. of Menthol Crystals, and started -jo use It. My, how quickly my hair did grow. First the hair stopped falling, the itching ceased and the dan druff disappeared. Then tiny Utile hairs appeared all over my scalp. These grew and grew as though nothing would ever stop them. They are growing yet ana nrhiia. at course. I have used the treat ment steadily and expect to continue It, at least until my hair reaches the floor. 1 might have stopped and been perfectly satisfied at the end of three months. I think that any woman can get long, thick, hMiitiful hair by uslntr this nreacrlotion as I have recommended it to several friends and all are delighted with the re sult. The prescription is very inexpensive and any druggist can fill it. Those who use it should be careful not to set it on the lace or where hair is not desired. - - must refrain from Riving- an exact mod el of a universal last. But if a man has small, narrow feet, with a hijrh instep supposed to be the sin of an arlsto crat. because It shows his forebearsj didn't walk about much then I recom. mend a rather pointed toe. Not what is called a "toothpick." but a toe com ing to more or less of a point in order to make the boots appear small, neat and becoming. No gentlemen In England ever wear those "protruding:" soles, sold far too often to college men, which are not only hideous and inartistic, but make the boot unreasonably heavy and clumsy. I have no doubt those few lines will raise quite a storm in tea cup. But I'm not "bought" to write anything but what I know to be true. And so the little leather merchants if they have a good stock of those "canal boats" on hand need not leave feather on me. GREATEST FIGURE- REDUCING Corsets si to 24 J1A5TICURVE-BACK SELF-REDUCING PERFECT STYLE 1 Very long skirt, length ened several inches in the back by an extension of durable elastic forming the new Nemo Lasticurve-Back laced down to the end. The elastic gores expand when you sit down you're comfortable! Edge of corset can't show through; corset can't ride up. Two models: No. 322 low bust ) No. 324 medium j $3.50 The longest corset ever made for stout and medium figures that gives complete ease and perfect style whether you stand or sit. A New Idea Perfectly Accomplished! Introductory Sale now in progress everywhere! OTHER FAVORITE NEMOS FOR ALL FIGURES $3.50, $4.00 and $5.00 Be on Your Guard! If any dealer tries to sell you "something just as good, " when you ask for a Nemo- Be a Vise Woman! and go to a store that will sell you what you want. KOPS BROS, Mfn, New York (A) WissWomanu BSea ibis GREATEST S of all FIGURE- I IjlEDUCIKG Corsets j K Ml .mm) '3