6
. THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN. PORTLA?fD, JANUARY 13, 1913.
MIDWINTER MILLINERY IS VARIABLE
IN GRACE, DISCOMFORT, SMARTNESS
Low-Crown Hat of Gold Lace Feature Scraped Ostrich Plume Fountain Exclusive Plumed Turban Is Trying
but Distinctive.
I . : i ; . . t
5 S'vV: 4 & mil
"
N
iEW YORK. Jan. 11. (Special.)
The low-orowned hat with a band
of skunk lur and a deep red rose
Is a teature of mid-Winter millinery,
and these hats are. almost invariably
graceful and becoming:. It Is of gold
lace with an under-brlm of white tulle,
ten layers of the tulle being- used to Bive
an exquisitely soft, airy effect under
the supple brim. A great red velvet
rose Is tuckad against the skunk fur
band that encircles the crown. The
hat matches a brown corduroy suit and
Bkunk furs; dull calf boots with but-
toned tops of brown suede completing'
a charming brown symphony.
The dernier crl In Paris In the mil
llnery line Is scraped ostrich, exclu
sive because of its high price. Four
or five long, handsome plumes, stripped
of every bit of feathery growth, are
required to make a single scraped os
trich feather. As six of these small
scraped ostrich tips are grouped In this
fountain of feathers, the aristocratic
character of the hat a Paris model
may be imagined. Under the feather
fountain is a. simple bow of picot rib
bon which repeats the white note
made by the draped white satin revers
on the frock of grape-colored lans
downe. Not only trying In the extreme, but
very uncomfortable as well, is the
mode of trimming of a hat that Is to
be seen, yet no mid-JVinter millinery
type is smarter or more distinctive
on the woman tall enough to carry
off the rather sensational mode. Of
course, it is impossible to lean back
against anything in a hat trimmed in
this fashion and one is doomed to sit
bolt upright whenever one sinks down
to rest. The hat is a turban model of
old gold velvet with uncurled ostrich
tips in tilleul and mustard shades at
the back and a dull gold ornament at
one side. The color scheme was se
lected to match the simple frock of
mustard-colored lansdowne. a silk and
wool mixture of beautiful draping
qualities, yet having a trifle more sub.
Btance than charmeuse, or crepe meteor.
Answers to Correspondents
BT LJUAN TINOLB.
CEITTRAiJA, "Wash., Jan. 2. In your
article last Sunday on frying doughnuts
you said: "There are oeveraj frying med
iums on the market that have a burning
fiolnt much higher than lard." I would
ike to use a 'better-than-lard"; how can
I tell what to select? Will you name
thosa yoa know to be better than pure
lard?
Also I would like to ask why when a
recipe Is published by you (and the same
Is In all cook books I have read) the cup
Is used for measuring. I may make up
a recipe and use 6-ounce cup; another per
son may use a 9-ounce cup for the same
recipe. One of us must hs very much
wrong.
Would It not be better to use the ounce
measurement, then everyone would get the
same proportions. Usually a coffee cup
holds 8 ounces and a teacup 4 ounces, and
these are varied considerably by different
makers. When cup measurement Is given
we are never told what size cup. Thank
ing you In advance. MRS. D. C. D.
IT is not possible for me to recom
mend by name, in these columns,
any particular commercial brand of
trying fat, or of other food materials.
I think, however, if you make a few
experiments with the high-class ad
vertised frying oils or flavorless vege
table shortenings that you may easily
find one to suit you. The best frying
medium should of course toe odorless
when heated below burning point,
practically flavorless (either hot or
cold) and with a burning point consid
erably above that of pure lard. The
last point can be roughly determined
by heating at the same time and in
similar vessels equal quantities of lard
and the fat to be tested and noting
which first begins to give a "blue
smoke" and a burned smell. Personally
I like an oil for frying, because it Is
Jitst a little easier to keep perfectly
trained and clarified than the more
solid fats and consequently lasts long
er; but I have also had very good, re
sults with a solid frying fat.
Where special commercial prepara
tions cannot be obtained, reasonably
good results can be Becured by combin
ing pure lard with clarified cottonseed
oil. Chicken fat has a higher burning
point than lard, and if carefully clari
fied should be as free as lard from ob
jectionable taste. A mixture of lard
and chicken fat. or lard and cottonseed
oil, will have a higher burning point
than lard alone. Just as a mixture of
lard and drippings will have a burning
point lower than lard, but higher than
drippings.
Cottonseed oil of fairly good quality
can be obtained at $1 to $1.50 a gallon,
and a gallon of oil should do the work
of eight or nine pounds of lard. In
deed, a gallon of oil will usually "go
farther" than the ordinary nominal
"10-pound pail" of lard, so its use may
be a double economy.
Soma cottonseed oil. however, gives
off an objectionable smell on heating,
though usually these fumes can be
carried away If there is proper stove
ventilation or a kitchen hood.
This oil can also be used for salads,
and ia liked by many people who do
not care for olive oiL I have fre
quently been asked for a recipe for
"that delicious cream dressing" by
women who "could not touch a drop of
oil," when actually the much-admired
dressing was nothing but ordinary
cottonseed oil mayonnaise, very care
fully seasoned to suit the particular
salad for which it was used, and with
a very little whipped cream folded in
at the last. Even when the cream was
omitted; oil haters have frequently
failed to recognize the oil. and have
supposed it a "cream dressing." This
is particularly true of some of the
cjarlfled . "white" cottonseed oils that
cost $1.50 to $2 a gallon. A good white
shortening and trying fat. containing
less water than "pure" lard, and there
fore more economical in use. costs 18
to 10 cents a pound.
Do not misunderstand ma as con
demning pure lard for all cooking pur
poses. It ia excellent for many things.
Because a fat Is "purely vegetable," it
Is not necessarily, either cleans . or
more wholesome or more easily assim
ilated than" a carefully prepared pure
fat of animal origin. In fact careful
experiments tend to show that most
animal fats are more readily digested
and assimilated than most vegetable
fats.
In regard to measurements, it is cer
tainly true that more accurate, satis
factory and scientific cooking could be
done if recipes were given by weight
instead of by measure. As a matter of
fact, I think practically all German,
French and English cook books give
proportions by weight; and, as all
chemical combinations take place in
certain definite proportions by weight,
cooking by weight is not only the log
ical, but the only scientific method.
Expensive cakes, for instance, should
always be made by weight to avoid
"guessing" and "luck." In the domes
tic science school where I was trained
everything was done by weight, and
in all the time of my training and
practice teaching In this school, among
hundreds of students (budding teach
era, housekeepers, society girls, maids,
school children, eto.) I actually never
saw a single "fallen cake.
In America, however, women tend to
hurry more and to "guess" more. Com
paratively few households possess re
liable scales, and even those who pos
sess them often do not use them and
do not "think in weights." even in do
ing marketing. You may hear women
ordering "a dollar's worth" of sugar,
or "a quarter's worth" of rice, or "36
cents' worth" of chops. I have even
read printed recipes calling for "5
cents' worth" of some ingredient, re
gardless of varying prices in different
places or at different times. This lack
of "thinking in weights" tends to make
easy the selling of short-weight pack
age goods, meat, fish, etc. I have
known domestic scales, duly inspected
by weights and measures authorities,
and consistently used by the house
wife, effect a very considerable reduc
tion in grocery and meat bills.
Still, most women "won't be both
ered," so that most cook books give
recipes by measure as being the quick
est if not the most accurate method.
You will find, however, that all mod
ern cook books give a table showing
the relationship of standard cups,
spoons and weights. "One cup" always
means one-half pint, level measure.
The standard tablespoon should be
one-sixteenth of one-half pint, and the
standard teaspoon is usually one-third
of a tablespoon, though a smaller
spoon equallying one-fourth of a table
spoon Is also used as giving more con
venient fractions in dealing wlh small
quantities. Most cook books usually
state, also, approximate equivalent
weights; two level cups (or 1 pint)
granulated sugar usually .weigh a
pound; two cups solid butter should
weigh a pound, and four cups flour,
measured after once sifting, should
weigh a pound. Thus knowing what
is meant, it is easy to translate weight
into measure or measure Into weight.
An English cake recipe reading "one
half pound flour, one-half pound sugar,
one-fourth pound butter," etc, would
means "two cups four, 1 cup sugar,
one-half cup butter," etc. Conversely,
if you have a "cup" recipe from a
standard domestic science cook book
and wish to weigh your materials for
greater safety, you can translate "two
tablespoons butter" as "one ounce,"
"one-fourth cup sugar" as "two
ounces." "one cup flour" as "four
ounces," etc
You see really there need not be
very much confusion. Standard half
pint "cups," as well as "pints" and
"quarts," divided In fourths and
thirds, can be obtained for very little
money. It is then quite easy to find
out whether your tablespoon is one
sixteenth or one-twelfth of your half
pint cup, and to modify your measure
ments to suit.
January T. It wul be necessary for me
to b married very early la the morning,
and my fiance Insists he cannot be married
"on an empty stomach." what would you
suggest as a menu for aucn an early wed
ding breakfast (7:30 A. M.) for about IS
persons? Thanking you in advance.
"WAITING."
Your fiance is quite Tight, and has
my sympathies as well as my con
gratulations. Most wedding "breakfasts" are act
ually luncheons both In time and form
of menu; but for so early a celebration
you might stick more closely to the
real "old-fashioned" breakfast idea
You should select things that can be
prepared the day before and quickly
reheated without spoiling. The table,
too, may be at least partly prepared
over-night so that half an hour's work
in the morning will be all that is
necessary. Personally I should like a
menu such as the following, which has
been highly approved by a number of
competent masculine Judges:
- Grape Fruit or Macedolne of Fruit
Maryland Chicken or Fried Chicken or
Chicken In Casserole
Baked Bam (Southern Style) Creamed
Potatoes
Waffles oc. Popovers with Honey or Maple
byrup or boms uooa preserve
Light Rolls (reheated) Coffee
If you can't get grape fruit or don't
like it, use choice- oranges similarly
prepared, with white (Imported Mai
aga) grapes or ' Maraschined cherries,
or canned pineapple, or all three. The
chickens (ready prepared) can be
quickly baked, if there is time and the
chickens are tender. Or they may be
fried th day before, and quickly heat
ed (on draining paper) in the oven.
A wafer-thin slice of pink, juicy,
melt-in-your-mouth ham would go
well with the chicken, and the ham
would be "a good thing to have In the
house" anyway," for "emergency
lunches" for tired helpers when the
excitement is over and people have
time to find out how hungry they are.
If fried chicken is too troublesome or
the chickens too elderly, a casserole
would be excellent. If your easserole
la non-existant, or not large enough,
or packed up as a wedding present, a
large bean pot will do the work. It
would not come to table in any case.
Creamed potatoes with a little extra
butter, cream and seasoning will re
heat "as good as new" in a large
double boiler, and so will yeast rolls,
in the oven, or In a double boiler if
the oven is busy. If you have plenty
of waffle irons and a waffle artist
In the kitchen, I think waffles would
be enjoyed and in keeping with the
rest of the menu. . The batter could
be made over night If no waffle
artist is available, pop-over batter can
be made over night, and the pop-overs
baked during the first part of .the
meal. The best of coffee and plenty
of cream of course.
Accept my best wishes, and remenv
ber never to discuss any differences
of opinion with him "on an empty
stomach.
SWEET HOME. Or.. Jan. 7. May
bring my "saved up" questions to you? My
list is not so large as at first. . I find so
many answered week after week. The
plum pudding, fruit cake and the follow
ing week's description of the fillings were
so timely.
However, I'm sure you will find my pres.
ent list large enough.
1 Will you tell me Just how to make
plain vanilla caramels? 1 have dismal
failures every time I attempt them. Is
white or brown sugar used? What causes
the sugar. and milk to curdle on the bot-
torn? Must I stir It often? Could you
give a reclne without molsRM7 vn
see I am perplexed over the whole process.
May i nave a recipe lor a tasty pump
kin pie?
The following questions also perplex me:
8. When making lemon custard or other
pies with beaten whites of eggs on ton.
should the latter be put on when the pie
Is hot or cold, and should they be browned
oulckly or slowly ?
4. Could you tell me what amount of
sugar Is best for two egg whites? I "guess
at ll' witn varying results.
G Should cake be cold when the filling
Is put on?
I have lately joined the ranks of the
"Newly weds," and I do fairly well; only
I find my cook-books rather vague as to
details, and I love your reclpts as every
thing is so plain. I am hoping to see your
cook-book materialize some day. Thanking
you very much for the help I am sure
1 snail receive. "PERPLEXED.'
I will try to answer your question
as space permits. In the meantime
your caramel trouble may result from
the use of milk in place of cream.
Either white or brown sugar may be
used. I will give you a detailed recipe
next week. I am glad you find this
column useful.
I must ask One Who Wishes to
Know" to wait until next week for
her reply.
Soda Cocktails.
Washington. D. C, Herald.
This is a mild and Innocent beverage,
with rather a dissipated name. A good
drink to serve either at the beginning
or end of the day's round of calling.
Fin your glasses with lemon soda; add
a teacup of rich raspberry syrup and
a thin slice of blood orange on top.
CHAFING DISH APRONS
ARE MADE "FRIVOLOUS"
Gift for Bridal Shower Is More Appropriate if Less Adapted to Utilitarian
Service Dotted Swiss Is Used, Cut in Many Designs.
1 ." j
i :ti -fi"
f I til
.w.:, y - I:
r .
" -. . . .
APRON FOR BRIDAL SHOWER.
NEW YORK, Jan. lL (Special.)
The bright particular star of the
shower of gifts which every pop
ular bride-to-be receives nowadays from
her little coterie of intimate girl
friends, is the dainty apron which may
be used for chafing dish suppers, for
afternoon tea or for chatty hours spent
over needlework. Every woman adores
a frivolous bit of an apron, and the
more frivolous it Is, the less suggestive
of utilitarian services, the more ap
propriate will it be.
Very fetching c.haflnf-dXab. aprons can
RESTAURANT HATS WITH TRIMMING
UNDERNEATH MOST PICTURESQUE
SoftBrimmed Models sof Black Velvet, Edged with Band of Skunk Fnr, Have Soft Pink Roses Under Brim, and
"Wreath of Tiny Buds Tall to Hair.
i iPM T rfy;-vSvS- . " ' s r. -V i iyZZ S
BBaxssssssHSSSiBnsssisjv 4f l i ijggay a
TTTtderjieatA
EW YORK, Jan. 11. (Special.)
The trimming of this very pictur
esque restaurant hat 1b massed
under the brim with a result that
Is extremely becoming, even if a very
little bizarre. The hat Is a soft-
brimmed model of black velvet, edged
with a band of skunk fur, and there is
no trimming on top, except the big,
draped crown of velvet. At either side,
under the brim, are big, soft pink roses
which nestle against the neck, and a
wreath of tiny pink roses and diamante
leaves drops softly on the hair under
the hat brim.
Provided the lines of a hat are right
the Impalpable thing called by the
milliners "the movement" of the shape
a tiny bit of trimming will be
enough to complete the ensemble. But
the placing of the bit of trimming is
as Important as the "movement" of the
shape, and a little distortion of line
anywhere can utterly spoil the effect.
This smart modol of dark green plush
Is raklshly poised on the head and the
trimming of white mercury wings is
placed In the exact spot to give bal
ance to the hat. This simple yet chio
hat accompanies a cutaway walking
suit of mixed worsted and buttoned tan,
boots In the new iive-DUttonea, iow
top style.
be made of dotted swiss, cut in a point
ed shape at the lower edge and paneled
with inch-wide lines of very fine ma
chine embroidery. Around the edge
should go a frill of val lace and ribbon
tie-strings may be run through an
embroidery beading, set across the top
of the apron.
Lace Frills) Used.
Allover embroidery also makes a
charming apron and-there are new ma
chine-embroidered batistes which are
particularly airy and dainty. A lace
frill or a frill of very sheer, fine em
broidery should finish the edge, and
tiny pockets, edged with frilled lace.
may be decorated witn bows of pert
black velvet ribbon or with blue, pink
or lavender bows, according to the
bride's taste.
The little bride who Is going to take
care of her new home with her own
hands will appreciate a top-to-toe
kitchen and workaday apron, which
will cover her frock completely. Such
an apron should reach well up over the
front of the frock and may be made
with large armholes finished with pip
ing, or have loose sleeves fastening at
the wrl3t with a buttoned cult, as pre
ferred. The sleeveless apron is the
daintier style and most women prefer
it. since the sleeves of the morning
dress or shirtwaist are usually rolled
back during 'household duties, and
anron sleeves are ratner in tne way.
Make the top-to-toe apron of pink and
white, or blue and white gingham and
pipe it with white or with plain color.
Round out the neck and finish it with
a piping or with a narrow turnover
collar and smart little bow; and be sure
and remember pockets. A big one at
each side. Just below the waist, will
add style to the apron and be appreci
ated by its wearer. .
Large Pockets Serviceable.
The apron in the picture is for wear
during the hours devoted to needle
work, and the lower part of the apron
draws up like a bag, holding one's em
broidery, knitting or other fancy work
conveniently and safely until one is
ready to sit down again at one's sew
ing. This particular apron Is made of
flowered pompadour silk and the .illus
tration shows how the hag is made by
turning up the lower edge of the apron
and running a casing along the top of
this turned-up piece. Another casing
Is put in the apron Itself at the same
height from the bottom, and ribbons
draw up the casings to form a deep
bag, or lengthen out when the bag la
to be turned into an apron. Two small
pockets of the silk add to the prettlness
of the apron, above the needlework re
ceptacle, and the top of the apron is
drawn up by ribbons run through an
other casing.
P?!JI'!W.lUJUB.tSJmil lULISIIIIIMI !,
AN IDEAL BUST
Is woman's chief charm, her most wonder
ful fascination, nature's greatest gilt.
Write Today for Newest Treatment
You Can
Have an
Ideal Bust,
No Matter
How Flat,
Thin,
Bony, 1
Flabby or
Shrunken
Vonr '
Flsnre
Slay Be.
Send Yon
Free All
We
Offers-Free.
The famous
Madame
Moselle Bast
Oevrloplng I " y -
TrMlnunf SA . .. i., . J2.
Works Like A lancinating Woman With
Magio An Ideal Bust.
Develop Tour Bust Quickly This New Way.
Thin and homely women may become
beautiful, perfectly developed, wltb a glor
iously luxuriant bust by this wonderful new
treatment, which quickly enlarges the bust,
beautifies the skin, fills out hollow and
scraggy necks and develops the bosom Into
the sublime perfection of womanhood in full
bloom. Flat-chested, uninteresting women
made fascinating; flabby, flaccid busts made
firm and exquisitely rounded; scrawny necks
and shoulders filled out and made beauti
ful, graceful and alluring. The Madame
Moselle Bust Developing treatment is some
thing entirely different. IT IS NEW IN
AMERICA. ABSOLUTELY HARMLESS, and
guaranteed to develop the bust quickly. It
is different from all others. No massage,
no cuppings, no vibrators, no rollers, no
poisonous lotions or worthless creams, no
vapor or hot water baths, no cold water
douches, no book of rules, no medicines, no
internal treatment or injections, but a safe,
delightful, effective compound treatment
that will give you such a development as
you have craved with your whole heart.
Write at Once for All We Offer Free and
ljeartt of Quick, Safe, New Treatment.
All we send free will be sent prepaid under
plain sealed cover. No one need know that
you are taking our treatment, as you can
use It secretly In your own private room.
Do not delay,- because one application will
convince vou of its merit. As soon as It is
applied yoji will feel ALMOST INSTANTLY
Its beneficent effect and note the tingling,
exhilarating action It exerts on the bust,
forerunner of the splendid development it
will give ' you. Write today, if you really
desire to develop your bust quickly. Don't
send any money. MADAME MOZELLE CO..
8FTTB 147, IMS WAZEJB ST, INVB,
COLO.
"MY BEST RECIPES."
Cash Prises Offered by The Oregonian
to Women Readers.
Three cash prizes of $3, $2 and $1,
respectively, will be offered by The Ore
gonian each month for the best recipe,
in different classes of dishes, submitted
by skillful housekeepers.
Intending contestants should observe
the following rules:
1. Write briefly, (not less than 100
nor more than 400 words), on one side
of the paper only.
2. Write, first, the measure of ingre
dients; then give the method of treat
ment and necessary cautions.
3. All measurements should be level.
4. State how many people the recipe
Is Intended to serve.
5. Give name and address of sender.
The prizes will be awarded by a com
mittee of practical housewives and do
mestic science teachers, selected by
Miss Lillian Tingle.
The Oregonian reserves the right to
print any of the contributed recipes
which fall to secure a prize. Manu
scripts cannot be returned.
In the event of the same recipe being
sent in by different contributors, the
one bearing the earliest postmark will
be given preference in awarding the
prize.
The Topic for January will be "My
Best Winter Breakfast Dish."
Contributors may explain in a few
words the special merits of the recipe
submitted, but the term "delicious"
should be used as little as possible. The
"deliclousness" may be taken for
granted. ,
The contest closes for January en
January 31.
Ca thins; n Lover.
Judge.
"Jimmy engaged to Gladys? Why I
thought he and Mabel had been keep
ing company ever since they went to
school together!"
"Quite right; but she threw him
down hard, and Gladys caught him on
the first bounce."
To Ward Off Winter
Complexion His
(From The Qneen.)
To keep the face smooth, whits and
beautiful all Winter, there's nothing
quite so good as ordinary mercollzed
wax. Hough, chapped or discolored
skin, inevitable in this weather, is
gently absorbed by the wax and re
placed by the newer, fresher skin be
neath. The face exhibits no trace of
the wax, the latter being applied at
bedtime and washed off mornings.
Creams, powders and rouges, on th
other band, are apt to appear conspicu
ous at this season, because of alterna
tive expansion end contraction of the
skin, due to changing temperatures. I
advise you to try this simple treatment.
Get an ounce of mercollzed wax at any
drug store and use like cold cream.
This will help any skin at onoe, and in
a week or so the complexion will look
remarkably youthful and healthy.
Winds and flying dust often causa
squinting and other contortions which,
make wrinkles. Yon can quickly get
rid of every wrinkle, however produced,
by using a harmless face bath made by
dissolving 1 oz. powdered saxollta In H
pt. witch hazel. Adv.
Is Your Hair
Beautiful?
Nearly a century ago ED. PINAUD, the great
Paris perfumer, invented Eau de Quinine. He never
claimed it would "cure" baldness nor "restore"
grey hair. It won't do either. But it is a wonder
ful preparation for beautifying the hair and remov
ing dandruff (the hair's worst enemy).
Its merit and quality are proved by the fact
that its sales grew steadily, its popularity in
creased yearly, until to-day the demand is un
precedented in the history of hair preparations.
Men and women of culture always insist upon
having only
ED. PINAUD'S
EAU DE QUININE
because it is the aristocrat of all hair preparations,
refined in effect and exquisitely perfumed.
Every reader can test ED. PINAUD'S Hair
Tonic by simply sending a 2c. stamp to our
American Offices, 11 ED. PINAUD BUILDING,
New York. We will send enough for three
applications. Try it and then buy a 50c. or $1.00
bottle from your dealer. For your own safety
and protection insist on ED. PINAUD'S take no
imitation nor substitute.
Write to-day for the free sample. -