The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, September 15, 1912, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 64

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    6
FINEST OF MUSLIN EMBROIDERIES
APPEAL TO FASHIONABLE PEOPLE
Workmanship Plays Leading Bole in Tea Gowns Fetching Effects in Silken Garb for the Boudcir Cleopatra
Lounging Frock a Great Success Brassieres Supplanting Corset Covers.
" - ' ' 7 ''.23 x 'lB55
& :vl ' ' fl y
v i ? J ) 1 : $ K
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- .. '' 4
. . ? ;: i if " , - s
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"'-a - . Ke! '
Jt'J . . I. I
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ini 1 urn
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$5
Gnvsr OS &asfc f-w'
MUSLIN embroldarlea are more than
rer faahlonable this Autumn.
And amall wonder, for never were
their patterns lovelier and more allur
ing to women of refined taste in all
thing's pertaining: to feminine belong
ing;!. Notably do these nllovers. flounces,
dglrlgs. Insertions, as well the mo
tifs and medallions to be Inset or ap
plied (according to the inspiration of
the seamstress) play a leading; role In
the development of teagowns of the
informal order. For be it understood,
that the teagown has of late been di
vided Into two distinct classes the
garment decolletage and having a long
train, which can scarcely be distin
guished from an evening: sown, and
the garment high-necked and deml
tralned or round-skirted. While wear
ing the first type of negligee a host
ess may. without inviting critical com
ments, preside at her dinner table, but
when wearing the second type of aeg
llgee, a woman receives only her most
Intimate friends of the gentler sex.
So light of weight and filmy of ap
pearance are some of the new embroid
eries that they blend perfectly with
nets and chiffons. It Is not unusual
to see a boudoir teagown of plain
white Brussels or moussellne de sole
elaborately garnished with wheels and
flowers and conventionalised Greek
Batterna on batiste, but so cleverly and
i-1f-r;!i - - 1 "
. 1
J.
1
II v i-k. ; 1 1
! -v-..-.T: A
ii. v.--i ill
S&s&szee cZkcfca
delicately are these designs worked out
that they seem naturally to belong
with the transparencies which they
garnish.
Tfcla Sllka In Demand.
Almost transparent of quality are
the thin silks in demand for boudoir
garments. This is because the return
vogue for all manner of plaitings has
brought back the accordion, than which
there is nothing more suitable for use
in the development ot a negligee.
In liberty and China silks of delicate
tones of pink. blue, green, mauve and
the ultra-fashionable yellow, modistes
of the highest class are showing speci
mens of boudoir garb which can only
be resisted by the shopper who has
not the price demanded and never
expects to have it. Yet few of these
prices are extortionate when the
amount of silk and the hand work is
considered, to say nothing of the nov
el linings that are used. These lin
ings, or. rather under garments, since
they are detachable, are exquisitely
made sklrta and Jackets or princesse
., . -11 miiMlIn Ambrotderv
which may be ripped en bloc from the
negligee and separately muuuei
That scheme of treatment makes the
cleaning of the outer and accordion
plaited portion a simpler and conse
quently cheaper matter.
Cleopatra Fascination- Robe.
Nobody living is willing to take oath
that Cleopatra ever owned a lounging
OS 32" ttzte iJir.
frock so lovely as the model which
has been christened to compliment her,
and is supposed to follow the general
lines of the Tobes worn In her day.
It is a gracefully simple affair, cut In
two pieces and having seams running
from under' the arms to the feet, and
from the tops of the shoulders to the
ends of the elbow sleeves. The
"lounger" pushes her pretty head
through the opening at the top and
then proceeds to draw the shoulder
seams together with ribbon lacings run
through huge eyelets worked In the
material.
In figured silk or challl, in plain
wool satin or cashmere de sole. In
batiste or lawn, the "Cleopatra" Is a
fascinating robe. And if anyone ob
jects to its rather low neck and unde
niably short sleeves, she may easily
add a sleeved gulmpe of net, or lace or
embroidery. The Egyptian robe is so
easily slipped on and covers the figure
so modestly that it is an ideal garment
to have on band for emergencies; Its
value as a Pullman robe is obvious.
Matinee Jacket Popular.
Matinee jackets have ever been pop
ular because they" practically answer
the purposes for which negligees were
designed, yet are much more easily
made. Their cost Is purely a personal
matter. Charming looking coatees, in
basque or flowing style, are produced
with a few yards of silk veiled with
net. " mousRsllne de sole or St. Gall
Swiss, and trimmed coquettlshly with
m,.nv nnj r.tr lnnlrtn hnWH Of Wide
satin ribbon. A recent fancy is to have
broad bands or scauopeo.-eo.Kea tu?-
llsn eyeietung piacea enire eu wuu
wide insertions of coarse lace veiling
Colored ribbon.
Still more novel, however, is me
. . f a.h,hla Ohfnft. R i 1 If in
luauuca vj- u.,..uu.
white and a color, trimmed below the
m.l. Una n-tth Aln Tlflll 11 TT1 Of flllOVeT
embroidery matching broad bands run
ning the lengto 01 ine Bieeves
simulating a deep Van Dyke extend
ing half way down the back and front
center of the Jacket proper.
Losg Petticoats in Favor.
Tr-ifv. ni. sktrtH sa-atn in fashion
and rumors of wider ones to come,
lAwinnllw fhn Inn or rjetticoat'S return to
favor was to have been expected. In
its revived form it Is a splendid affair
and differs in many respects from the
petticoats years ago packed Into lavender-scented
trunks to peacefully
await the day of their resurrection.
In sort silk are xo do m ""
notflrnatH in various delectable shades
and - embellished with hand-worked
scalloped flat flounces, some times lace
inset. Intended for use with matinee
jackets and not to be confused with
the tailored silk petticoats worn under
walking skirts. These matinee petti
coats seem luxurious, dui bio
simple when compared with those hid
den by dinner and evening gowns.
"White tricot silk flounced from the
. i . i. r.ni.a lofp headed with a
Kueea w . . . .
. . i l ...i .Vi a lv.r floRS
aesign aone uj i'"1"1 " " ' --- '
describes a petticoat brought from
. i l X nn- TnPlf
Perls lor a we-u
i . .LI. wromant la not mOTP
woman, uui imo ----splendid
than hundreds of others of
the same class. ki'"'i; -
... . . -t .heir due meas-
pemcoais D j. t . . .. r.
ure of favor and because, in common
with, the ones 01 sun an" -""-"
lace, they are narrower more closely
gored and fitted about the hips with
the utmost precision, are being ordered
by the dozens to take the place of
S Kilt nhsolutelV
those periectij - -
out of fashion kindred garment of an
elder day wnicn wm
over if their materials are to be util
ised. At least the muslin embroideries
upon some of these petticoats need not
be wasted, ana - ;--
which should be comforting , to the
thrifty.
Dondoir Cap. Fetching.
So captivating are the lingerie and
lace caps which are worn with all man-
ond lounslng gar
ner Ui UC6Bvw ' ,
merits, that pity 'tis they can be viewed
only by feminine jnumaiea ui u,
i.ii.. ntniiv Anr.tar. When
a woman Wasn't anything - else to do,
she employs her fingers with . the mak
ing of a boudoir -cap of whatever suit
. . . .. . hand, and after
aDie maienma - , .
any design which happens to appeal
her fancy. " It is a num " ,7 '
. . f h "bebe" cans
nour 10 nrnive - -..
from a circle of lace, mull or St. Gall,
a yard of Valenciennes, musui.
. . (nntlnc. and a
tlZy Sbon bow.""Then there J. . the
"Corday cap. wnicn muoi i
ed over a foundation of ?ened co"e
. .. ..t,i A T.amhelle With
net. tne rnuwoo -v."
its full plaitings of deePJlace,f.''0pl"f
upon the snouraers u -
back of the neck, and lastly, a sor of
modification s of the Saxon bead-rail
a lovely arrangement In net that
completely conceals a disheveled coif-
UMules in lingerie materials have
much In their favor from the sanitary
viewpoint, as well as from "ie esthetic
one. Attacnea to inauici -----
are so constructed mai i"c " "
ing of the sole comes off simultane
ously wltn ine nre-i.j
broidery and lace ana xne
can be laundered in common. Holding
them firmly to the feet are broad rib
bon, starting from either
heel, crossing the Instep and then wind
ing, Roman fashion, about the ankle.
Corset Covera Going Out.
i- n.ri la the Drlncesse
chemise which literally is a combina
tion of three pieces chemise, panua
, .lrii-t This Dantalon may be
developed with the aid of a ten-inch
wide scant flounce ot musiin emu.u.v.-
tho fitted voke covering
the shoulders, but the same model is
eaually pood in Ht na" "
.lin Torrnw edeings. SUP-
plemented. of course, with a rhbn-
run Deaaing.
friend of the woman who must be econ
. . i ....or nf liiiiiidrv. be-
omicai lu lub -- " .
cause it may be worn under the corset
and thus take tne piace m
. . . . . .Via unrflMt is COV-
sniri. An w cvc"t-'
ered by a brassiere, nowadays a thing
of beauty ana umurauui"'j -to
the stout woman. "
Brassieres, to be truthful, are-gradu-ally
ousting corset covers and logi
cally, too, since they now fill every re-
. . . . Aij.fgGiinnMl srar-
ouiremeni ui v , ' .
ment Made in practical style, and at
the same time reno un.ui...,
nate with dainty trimmings of em
broidery, lace, and wash-ribbon, to
wear under the lingerie blouse of a
diaphanous frock, there really is no
reason wny tne Dr"i -
win a lasting victory over the corset
cover. In one of the newest brassieres,
all aonearance of seams Is eliminated.
Its fit preserves when it does not ac
tually give tne cunt
shaping, and it is easily adjusted.
.. .. . . thnntrh moulded
Fitting tne usuis "
uauy pre -,7.tTon corset
the place i
cover, this brassiere proves that still
- talran In tile
another " wo-
mfn's "Sart- perfectly comfortable
Whit, linen fo?ms the foundation of
the attractive-looking brassiere here
presented, out tne ui uu ---
r .. . 1 1 nnt and back, are
ofBEnllsh eyeletted embroidery, fin-
. . i in A.lnlir stitch.
lshed at Dom ws . - 7- -
and at the top drawn taut with a
satin rlbon. A similar banding fin
ishes the bottom of the brassiere, which
is fitted to the corset outline by means
of under-arm aarts.
Menus for One
Week
Tuesday '
Cream ot Celery Soap
Stuffed Peppers with Rice
Baked Tomatoes
Lettuce and Pear Salad
Baked Custard
Coffee ,
Wednesday
Brown Vegetable Soup.
Rolled Brea.1 of Veal with Dresrtns
Sweet Potatoes Green corn
Lettuce Salad
Peach Shortcake
Coffee
Thursday
Corn Soup
. cold Sliced Veal with rs'n.,.
Scuff,, with SIS?
Macedolne 01 ruit
Coffee
Friday.
Tomato Soup
Baked Halibut. Tartar Sauce
Potato Balls
Veretable Salad Mayonnaise
Apple Pie with Cream
. . Coffee
Saturday '
Fish Chowder
Lentil Loaf. Tomato Sauce
Scalloped Cabbage
Stuffed Cucumber Salad
Popovers filled with Sugared Peaches
Coffee
Sunday.
'.l.ltl f.nl.ljiimM
Chicken in Casserole Potato Balls
Summer Squash a la Creole
- Chicory Salad with Cheese Aigrettes
Vanilla Cream with Tutu Fruttl
Coffee
' Monday. .
- Giblet Soup
Macaroni and Minced Beef
Stewed Celery
ijeilUn .HU oi.v-om . .....
Dutch Apple or Prune Cake with Cream
VUXiV
NEW MOTOR BONNET FOR QUAKER
MAIDEN IS REAL GIDDY AFFAIR
Composed of WMte and Emerald Taffeta, Darker Silk Goes in Back-Brim of White Taffeta Is Elaborately
Embroidered -With Dark Green Floss WMte Bibbon Ties Are Wide.
a -'fry ' ! - ( t
S LI - s& Mr-
ill la - ifrfel "1 Itv' I x i
I I . Pv4 h 11 1 l -
if- H - ' hJl v, I lM .
I r "-It,. ' fv-i - I I v ! 5
THESE photographs show the latest
styles in evening and afternoon
dress as shown at the Fashion
Show in New York. They are worn by
Miss Marie Barbara, the well-known
professional model. Miss Barbara has
posed for such artists as Howard
Chandler Christy. Sorolla, the Spanish
artist. Henry Hutt, Archie Gunn and
Harrison Fisher. She also has appeared
on the stage, taking part in "The Rose
of Panama," the "Bohemian Girl," the
Hippodrome and the Winter Garden.
Now that the Quaker maid has set
the seal of her approval upon the friv
olous automobile, a motor bonnet has
been designed In her honor. But it
isn't a bit Quakerish. On the contrary,
it Is distinctly giddy looking, and is
composed of white and emerald green
taffeta. The darker silk goes Into the
crown or back of the bonnet, fits the
nape of the neck closely, and is attached
to a brim of white taffeta elaborately
RECIPES FOR
OLD FASHIONED CHICKEN SAND
WICHES Use white homemade bread,
not too stale; butter it with sweet but
ter when thinly sliced, then cover each
slice with cold chicken shredded in
strips with the fingers. Add a dust of
salt and black pepper and a llghjt
sprinkle of dry mustard, or the faint
est touch of mustard paste. Cover the
slices and then-cut them through with
a sharp knife into two narrow strips.
Pickled gherkins or olives are often
served at simple wedding feasts with
meat sandwiches of any sort.
A more sophisticated way of making
chicken sandwiches Is to chop the
chicken, allowing a dozen large oysters
and several tablespoonfuls of butter to
a nint of the meat. The oysters are
cooked In their own liquor, but oniy un
til the edges curl; they are tnen cnop
ped and added to the chicken, and the
mixture is seasoned with salt and white
pepper and is held together with the
butter, which is worked up Into' a rich
cream. The white bread used is cut
thin, and the slices are not buttered, as
the filling is already rich enough. May
onnaise makes a delicious dressing for
the chicken filling, and when this is
used shreddings of crisp lettuce are
often added. The bottled mayonnaise
gives very good results, so if time is
limited this can always be used.
With the addition of candies and ice
cream or a fruit punch, the wedding
cake, good sandwiches and a fancy
salad of some sort are quite enough for
the menu of a modest home wedding
spread.
CHEAP WEDDING CAKE Take one
pound of butter, one pound of sugar,
one-half pound of eggs, one pound of
flour, two pounds of raisins, two pounds
of currants, one pound of citron, two
nutmegs, one tablespoonful of ground
cloves, two tablespoonfuls of ground
cinnamon, one tablespoonful of ground
allspice, two-thirds of a teacupful of
molasses and one tumberful of wine.
Begin by mixing the butter and sugar
to a light cream, then add one-half of
the raisins well washed and stoned
and ch'opped then the eggs, the whites
and yolks beaten separately. Warm to
gether the spices, moiasses and wine,
and add first to these the sifted flour,
and lastly the remainder of the fruit:
, mar jam SAMPI F tun RFillTY
rlaia BOOK FOR A POSTAL
If von have been trying
torera" which have failed,
send for this free sample
today. This exclusive
preparation, originated and
used by Mrs. Harrison in
her practice for twenty-five
years snows no iiuutw
ftttiiTHarrisorfs
IHAIRCOIOH
Is used by thousands of women and is
easily applied in the privacy of the
home. Cleanly -Quick -Certain. Con
tains no lead, sulphur or harmful in
gredient. If you would keep a youthful
appearance get a full aiie bottle ($10)
at druggists, or sent, express paid, by
MRS. KETTIE HARRISON CO,
Ban Francisco, - California
YOUR GMT HAIR
SUDMORB DRVQ CO.
131 Third St, Portland.
A.-Mr5.K
4-DAY
'jmMl.- : :
aSU.
embroldered with dark green floss. The
wide ribbon ties are pure white and
each string, starting at the end of the
band, below the earlobe at that side,
forms itself Into shallow puffs close
to the throat.
a
Nobody expects to find the nursery
luncheon table set out with expensive
china but as the little ones delight in
prectlness, you may as well get some
of the odd pieces of crockery which
seem to have been designed specially
for their sake. There is the blue and
white china in dragon pattern, certain
to inspire questiens anent the Flowery
Kingdom, and if you don't come upon
that when searching bargain counters
for the needed gravy boats, milk bowls
and meat platters, purchase a windmill
set in Belfast. Failing to find either of
these blue and white specimens of pot
tery, you will be certain to spy out
pieces of creamy ware picturing the
scenes familiar to Dutch boys and girls,
or the gayly colored plates and tank
ards made in Normandy, and, in nine
THE WEDDING
mix the ingredients of the two bowls
together, thoroughly blending the ma
terials. Bake in a deep thick pan in a
moderate hot' oven until done. Try the
cake several times with a straw before
taking it out.
ICING Take one pound of "flour
sugar" or confectioner's sugar, and the
whites of four eggs; put the two to
gether before the least beating is done
and then beat until the mixture is stiff
and smooth. Spread the Icing on the
cake with a knife that has been dip
ped in cold water, and wet the knife
each time before taking up more of the
Icing. When the cake is covered, set It
in an oven, with the least heat that can
be had, to dry. The cake should be
cold, or very nearly so, when iced, and
the Icing can be flavpred with rose or
almond or orange
Develop Your Bust in 15 Days
A Full Firm Bust is
Worth More to a
Woman than Beauty
I don't care how thin you are. how
old you are. how fallen and flaccid
are the lines of your figure or how
Oat your chest is. I can give you a
full. firm, youthful bust q u 1 c k 1 y.
that will be tho envy of your fellow-women
and will give you i the
allurements of a Pf ect woman
hood that will be Irresistible They
say tlwwe la nothing new under the
sun but
I have perfected a treat
ment that I want to
share with my sister.
What it did for me It enn and will
a for yon, and I now offer it to
JSu. Other's offer to build up your
figure with drugs, greasy skin
foods, creams, dieting, massage and
expensive Instruments and devices.
I have done nwny with nil these In
jurious methods and have given a
legion of women a luxuriant natural
development by a txetment nev?,
before offered the public. No
massaging, nothing to take, nothing
to wear.
Wny lx afclnny. aemwny, Hat
nnd nnnttrnctlve. I claim to
h, the hlchent-nrtced nrtUt'a
h.i i- h United Staten,
nnd whnt I did fw myaelf I
do for yon.
I don't care what your ag may
be. I ask only that you be at least
sixteen and not an Invalid, and I u 111
undertake to develop your bust in
two weeks. All I ask Is five or ten
minutes of your time every day.
Write to Me Today for My Treatment
IT WIIX -OXLT COST TOV A PEXXT FOR A POSTCAR3 AD I
wn L MAli TOU THIS WONDERFUL INFORMATION II A
FLAIX COVER SO THAT SO O.NB WILL, KNOW YOUR SECRET.
Don't let a false pride and silly sense of shame keep you from enjoy
ing to the full the charms you should have to be a perfect specimen of
womanhood. Let me help you. Tour communication shall be held In ab.
solute confidence and secrecy. Write me today.
ELOISE RAE, 132S Michigan Avenue. Suite 1776, CHICAGO, ILL.
a 11
cases out of ten, showing a cat creep
lng over Its glazed surface.
m
To try to get alone comfortably dur
ing the Autumn without some sort of
utility coat Is a mistake, and one
which will be bitterly bewailed later on
by the economist who has vainly es
sayed to make her sole tailored suit do
for nice wear as well as for general
knocking about. Most of all satisfac
tory and not too expensive for a mod
erately circumstanced girl to buy, la
the coat of mixed tweed made with a
panel back, mannish revers, long pock
ets and closing with big bone buttons.
A trifle less expensive Is the blanket
coat in reversible vicuna, 1 having a
plalded side which turns outward for
the collar and cuffs, and for the lapels
of the large applied pockets. Of about
the same class is the ulster of black
and white checked wool with pipings
and buttons of black velvet.
ECKLES
Dent Ride Them With a VeJl Remove
Them Wltn the New Drug.
An eminent skin specialist discov
ered a new drug, othlne double
strength, which is so uniformly success
ful in removing freckles and giving a
clear, beautiful complexion that It ia
sold by Woodard, Clarke Co. under
an absolute guarantee to refund the
money If It tails.
Don't hide your freckles under a veil;
get an ounce of othlne and remove
them Even the first night's use will
show a wonderful improvement, some
of the lighter freckles vanishing en
tirely. It Is absolutely harmless, and
cannot injure the most ' tender skin.
Be sure to ask Woodard. Clarke A
Co. for the double atrength othine; It
is this that Is sold on the money back
guarantee. -
Develop Bust New Way
... . . . .