The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, August 04, 1912, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 60

Below is the OCR text representation for this newspapers page. It is also available as plain text as well as XML.

i -'
pleated ribbon crossing the' center of
the bow should be proportionately wide.
With the white hat trimming covering
the side of the. crown white hatpins necessary, and the smartest
sort this Fall will have seed pearl
Hatpins now are modest and incon
spicuous affairs; the huge knobs and
ornaments have passed out along with
the dangerous long points which no
woman, fastidious about careful groom
ing, will now tolerate, any more than
a slouchily fastened stock collar or
boots with buttons missing. The hat
pin is selected to fit the size of the
hat crown and If the pin part Is too
long it may be made shorter at trifling
Another Charming Creation Is Also Shown Which Is. Intended for Wear in the Mountains During Early
Autumn Days With Outing Costume. ' v
Georgettes, New Sailor, With Its Saucy Rolling Brim, Cleverly Trimmed, and Virots, Admirable "Amazon"
ban, Will Both Prove Popular for Younger Women Pictures of Both Are Shown Below.
'XinH '" .. -
Milady Now at Height
of Her Summer Glory
XT X X-X' "
t 4
Manr Novelties Are Offered - In
Shops, Ramrlna; From Bathing;
Sulfa to Moat Elaborate Costumes
and Accessories.
I I X iV feX .. . tM
I I - V xxx
-w- V , If
V . Jf f XXN ,
XX .f X-
TIE graceful lines of this hat are
strikingly evident, and the color
combination a soft pearl gray and
white is particularly pleasing. The
pearl gray felt shape is very flexible,
and the wide brim is caught back
against the crown under two white
breasts which sweep around toward
the side and back of the hat. This hat
is part of an Autumn .trousseau and
will be worn in the mountains during
September with a worsted tailored suit
and white buttoned boots of buckskin.
This charming Maria Crdzet hat
caused a veritable sensation when It
appeared last month. The shape is a
broad-brimmed affair, almost in mush
room style, made of dark blue velvet.
The entire crown is covered with I
mass of short ribbon ends taffeta,
velvet, satin and pros grain ribbons in
shades of bluet. Among the ribbon
ends at one side are tucked two or
three large artificial bluet which deepen
and enrich the coloring of the hat. It
is anticipated that these ribbon crowns
which look like huge flowers will be
tremendously fancied later on.
This arrangement of ostrich tips
showered over with black aigrettes Is
novel and Interesting. The new feather
Is called the "fountain aigrette," and
Is, of course, rather high-priced, since
aigrettes delicate enough to curl over
and plump little ostrich tips of the
sort pictured are naturally expensive.
The hat Is a Crozet model with a
blocked crown of buff colored moire
silk and a rolling brim faced with black
velvet, and the "fountain" trimming is
made of buff-colored ostrich tips
showered over with black aigrettes.
Georgette and other French milliners
are very partial to these "fountain
aigrettes" Just now. and they promise
to be a distinctive mode of the Autumn.
Jx. v
I l f a
4J I, . ' :
Big Picture Shapes of Soft Black Velvet Are Trimmed With White Feathers Slant, Rather Than Stand Up
Straight Hat Pins Are Small and Smartest Have Seed Pearl Tops.
THE lack ot stiffness ol "hard, se-'
vere Jines is the first thing that
strikes one in the Autumn milli
nery. Shapes are soft and undulating,
draped effects are in especial favor,
and even the large blocked hats are
so flexible that they may be bent and
twisted Into all sorts of graceful ef
fects. At the Fete Des Drags in July
many velvet and silk hats of a dis
tinctly Autumn character were noted.
The Parlsienne makes no marked dif
ference between her Winter and Sum
mer millinery except In the sort of
fabrics used. In Paris one sees straw
and hemp headgear in February, and
- velvet chapeaux begin to appear In
midsummer, and at the Fete Des Drags
or coaching parade there were
many interesting creations from au
thoritative couturiers all bespeaking
coming fashions for Fall.
Velvet, taffeta and moire silk are
being used for these first Autumn hats,
chiefly velvet. Never were velvet
shapes so soft and flexible and grace
ful as .they are now so light, also.
Lift one of the big picture shapes of
soft velvet in the hand and you feel
scarcely any weight at all. The big
hat seems to be made over crinoline,
yet in spite of Its lightness and crush
able texture the beautiful shape main
tains Us lines whatever you do to It.
Georgette has brought out a new
sailor which promises to be the craze,
so graceful It Is and so youthful is
its suggestion a prime consideration,
as every woman knows, where milli
nery Is concerned. This big Georgette
sailor is made of the soft black velvet
so much In favor, and the brim curls
up at the back ever so slightly Just
enough to prevent that hideous rest-lng-on-the-shoulder
look when the hat
is tipped slightly backward. Around
the large, loy crown goes a draped
band of white satin finished, exactly
In front, by a small pert pleated bow
which rests on the brim near the base
of the crown. Poised at the top of
the white satin band, also directly In
front, are two smart little white mer
cury wings which slant outward
toward the side. This Georgette sailor
was represented by three models at
the Fete Des Drags, and two of tae
sailors were of black velvet with the
white satin and wing trimming.
White trimmings on black hats are
to be the grand chic so the milliners
sift i-
XX y X- .
LtWX- tlx
XVV - f
t4 fc.T ' XX'X5XX
-'Xo'-r XrX
say and along with this notion trav
els the fad for -plcot-edged ribbon In i
black and- white. A tailored hat for
first Fall wear has been designed by
Virot to accommpany an Autumn go-
ing-awajr costume of black and white
whipcord, and the striking thing about
the rather simple, girlish hat is the
trimming of white ribbon having a
black plcot edge. A band of the rib
bon binds the edge of the brim and a
smart bow of it slants backward at
one side of the crown. By the bye,
all hat trimmings slant now. Instead
of rearing aloft in what the milliners
call a "stick-up" fashion. The more
the bow, feather, quill or aigrette
slants, the more chic the hat. Some
of the French models are rakishly
poised on the head, an outward stand
ing aigrette forming a - right angle
with the slant of the hat at one side.
Another hat trimmed with plcot rib
bon is a blocked affair of soft gray
blue felt. The ribbon Is blue with a
white picot edge and a wide band of
it binds the edge of the rolled-up
brim. This brim is caught back a lit
tle at one side of the front under a
loose twisted knot of the ribbon
through which Is stuck a long white
ostrich quill. Accompanying a suit of
navy blue serge wijh white gloves and
black patent leather boots having side
button gaiter tops of blue cloth, this
simple tailored hat will be immensely
chic. .
Paradise Aigrettes All the Rage.
Paradise aigrettes will be the . ultra
aristocratic trimming this Autumn
without a shade of doubt, because, the
price of paradise having mounted with
decided leaps and bounds, this trim
ming is now expensive enough to be
exclusive to a degree. Coque pom
pons that curl downward around the
edge of the brim are being used by
some of the French milliners with
good effect, a tiny model by Maria Guy
with this coque trimming being partic
ularly Interesting. This dainty . little
Maria Guy hat is copied from the al
most grotesquely small Second Empire
turbans which were rakishly poised
on the head, a feather curling coquet
tishly downward over one ear.
The little hats are in nlchee or nest,
effect, and are made of soft mate
rials, wound round and round, though
a definite brim and crown are usually
suggested by the drapery. A particu
larly pretty Maria Guy model Is of
draped white velvet with a facing of
black velvet part way up the brim
ail - - - j fj - - n i i
- -
TX v '
x! -
- Ss:XXixj
- irf ;
and a curling coque pompon falling
over the right side, near tue oacK.
Amaioi Kot Becoming to AIL
The Amazon shape is another of the
almost grotesqueley small styles which
divide honors with the big, picturesque
types. This Amazon shape is elongated
from front to back and is set rather
far back on the head, the brim hav
ing a backward roll and the trimming
poised at the center front also
slanting toward the back. This hat
is not becoming to all women. It re
quires & chic, well-groomed coiffure
and a piquant rather than pretty face
to make it as smart and dashing as
it should be. A woman lunching at
the Rlts the other day wore one of
these gay little Amazon hats made of
white moire silk and navy blue velvet.
The blue velvet crown curled up at
either side toward the stiff, blocked
crown of white moire and directly at
the center front, covering the crown
at that point, was a flat bow of the
moire silk, finely pleated. . Two mer
cury wings of white tipped with blue
slanted backward irom tne dow.
A blue suit of pernio fabric a wor
sted and mohair weave much favored
these days in Paris accompanied the
Amazon hat. The coat buttoned up
trimly in cutaway style and had a
wide-rolling Robespierre collar. The
neck was dressed In a high, trimly
boned stock of white lace and long
seed iearl earrings lust now the craze
in Paris gave the finishing touch of
cachet. Beneath the new pleated skirt
of the permo - suit peeped - out black
leather buttoned oxfords, worn with
navy silk stockings clocked with white.
It was a typically French costume, per
fectly demure and simple in color
scheme, but inexpressibly chic in per
fection of detail and . slight exagger
ation of style.
Big Hatpin 'o Longer Tolerated.
Ribbon promises to be a prime favor
ite for first Fall hats, and one may
use anywhere from four yards down
to a quarter of a yard for a modish
bow. Some of the new trlcorne and
quat'eorne shapes need but a tiny co
cade of Btiff grosgraln ribbon to com
plete their smartness, and there are
other shapes which will stand a huge
bow of the charming plaid taffeta rib
bon. or of picot edged ribbon in two
color effect. The young woman who
wants to make ready a smart first
hat fos wear with her tailored suit
will be sure to strike the right note
if she selects a simple, smart shape
of black velvet and trims It with a
wide crown band and pleated bow of
white faille or grosgraln ribbon. The
bow may have two pleated loops wide
enough to reach from the top of the
crown to its base and the band of
v X
EVEN the bathing suit now has Its
Robespierre collar. A suit of this
sort, built of black and white
striped satin, shows a widely-turned-over
Robespierre collar of white satin
and white cuffs are set at the edge of
the short elbow sleeve. There is a
practical advantage, aside from the
feature tof smartness. In this collar on
the bathing suit, for while the throat
is comfortably free for swimming, the
back of the neck is protected from
freckles, which have a way of alight
ing f n this tender spot to depart nev
ermore. i .
Pearls in the hair are now consid
ered the appropriate accompaniment
of the evening costume. Sometimes a
pearl necklace, sewed securely to a
strip of narrow elastic, to make It long
enough, is slipped over the head In
bandeau fashion,, the elastic coming at
the back, under the braids or chignon
of curls. The front hair is first waved
and parted and caught back as it will
remain through tne evening, xnen tne
string of pearls is adjusted and fas
tened Into position with invisible nair
piis, which will catch the string be
tween the pearls. Afterward the back
hair is coiled, puffed or otherwise ar
ranged, and finally a few fancy pins
are thrust in. Pins, combs and ba
rettes are returning to fashion and
even the simple coiffure for day wear
is ornamented with two or more mas
sive shell pins or a comb.
Gaiter boots with buttons set down
the outer side have accompanied most
of the smart costumes at Longchamps
and Auteuil this Summer. These boots
are wonderfully trim and dainty and
have thin, turned soles ana irencn
heels, which, while curved In the fetch
ing Louis manner, are not high enough
to be uncomfortable o trying to me
back. The vamp and heel are usually
of patent leather, while the gatier top
may be of tan or gray ciotn, 01 ma
terial matching the gown or soft suede
or ooze leather. Tne top always forms
a striking contrast with the lower
part of the boot and tne Duttons set
down the outer side make the ankle
and Instep look very trim and slender.
The fashionable devotees of polo nt
on Long Island include iriany women
of the young married set and these fair
polo players-wear practical ana com
fortable costumes for the strenuous
game. Cross-saddle riding is the rule
and a knee-length' skirt over 'all rid
ing boots is accompanied by a Jumper
or sleeveless waistcoat, worn over a
thin rlrilna- shirt of white mull. Tne
head Is protected By a soft felt hat.
held on by elastic, and having a Drim
that shades the eyes. During the game
the sleeves are rolled up above the el
bow and the polo player, flying acdoss
th field on her alert little pony, is an
attractive and inspiring picture of ath
letic young American womannooa.
cnmAhnvr ni- nthar thA flat bandeau
of ribbon around the head seems to re
quire long, swinging earrings to com
plete the effect. t;ven tne aemureui
debutante acquires a sophisticated
and knowing look in one of these wide
bandeaux and tne lascinating ana oar
ing earrings which swing about saucl
i, with avaiv m rtvp m p n t of the head.
The bandeau of dark, though vividly
colored, ribbon Is usually more becom
ing to the dark haired woman man a
.I.,, hahtf hinA (ir dnk. and the wo
man with deep blue eyes. If she wants
to look enchanting, snouia wear a
deep blue coiffure band, drawn low
hor nrxhnad with soft waves Of
hair below it, and match eyes and
bandeau wltn swinging earrings wnu
blue stones. Seed pearl earrings are
4iic nnw immenfiAlv chic, but the dead
white of the sea pearl Jewelry Is be
coming to but very lew women.
Tons fimmrert mantles are charming
ly Summer-like and graceful for wear
over light rrocKS ana a quantity 01
handsome old lace may be used sat
t,f,.tA,iiv in th1 wav for a mantle re
aiaiviiij ...
celves less wear and tear than a gown
or a petticoat. A aengnuui manue ui
raspberry taffeta has loose flowing
sleeves and Is edged all around with
a puffing of the silk, the lace flounce
falling below this oversklrt- The
mantle slopes sharply downward from
the bust to the back, the lace hanging
almost to the skirt hem at the back,
while at the front It falls only to the
hips. Black velvet ties add a touch
of French cachet to the gay lltle gar
ment, and under the loose sleeves may
be drawn soft silk gloves embroid
ered In the color ot tne manue.
Menus for One
Frult oup
Breaded lamb chops Browned potato slices
Creamed cucumber
Lettuce and pear salad
Devonshire Junket
Cantaloupe cocktail
Braised tongue Oreen peas. English style
potato "apples and pears"
Lettuce heart salad
Peach cobbler with cream
Bouillon, hot or Iced
Minced and curried tongue
Cherry chutney Boiled rice
Lettuce, peach and almond salad
Blanc mange with custard.
. Trlday.
Brown vegetable soup
' Lentil loaf with baked tomatoes
, 0 Green corn
' Sweet fruit salad, gelatine dressing
Sptce cakes
Bice and lentil soup with mint
Baked flah with dressing
New potatoes Cucumber
Lettuce salad
Elackberries and cream
Watermelon cocktail
Baked chicken with ttny sausages
Brown potatoes Summer squash
Lettuce, cheese and peper salad
Peach ice-cream with peach compote
Rice glblet soup
Macaroni with cheese
Tomatoes au gratln
Vegetable salad mayonnaise
Plum mould with custard
T4 Tl . CabIt hale nankflffA
xs&nn,Jia 'uoi -4.. r-
fof gelatin in cold water, and then dis
solve It In tnree cupiuis ot douids
milk. Add a heaping cupful of sugar
and cook for 10 minutes. When cool
but not stiff, stir in three yellow ba
nanas broken Into bits with a fork.
Mold, chill and serve with whipped
j-? . xv -X x
it x x x "1 r ,'.rffl.:.
II VXX; . ,xrSx.
I I SV , i. v . N.ts
Vj4 'K'e' A
THIS graceful sailor shape, made of
soft black -elvet and having a de
cidedly saucy roll to the brim, has
been brought out by Georgette, and
promises to be the hat of the season, as
far as younger wornen are concerned.
The Georgette sailor pictured here is
trimmed with soft folds of white satin,
pleated into a little bow at the ends.
Style Varies From Dainty Eeceptacle
Finger to Reticule for
HALF a century ago every woman
who went to the country tor a
vacation took with her the silk, the
beads and the knitting needles to
fashion a rims purse during leisure
hours. Now the quaint little old ring
purse is back again and is a veritable
craze in Paris, where these purses are
carried -with the formal type of costume
that does not need a roomy- shopping
or traveling bag, or a theater reticule
large enough to contain vanity be
longings and the like.
The ring purse may be carried con
veniently over one finger or tucked
into the breast pocket of the coat with
one tasseled - or fringed end hanging
over. It will hold more money than
one would think, at first glance., for
both ends may be stuffed full of dimes,
quarters and nickels, with a bank
note or two tucked in for good measure,
rz r ..x v
x K "
X yc-r-...'9m0
i- K 4 ,'X
JX X v
yx (1 . ?
this pleated bow resting on the brim
at the front of the hat. Poised against
the crown at the top are two white
mercury wings.
This little velvet hat by Virot is in
the new "Amazon" shape. Just now the
rage in Paris. The brim rolls back
ward and the whole hat slants toward
the back where the brim is much wider
for Change to Be Carried on One
Evening Necessities.
the metal ring holding the mouth of
the bag securely. The ends are usually
finished in a different way so that one
may keep track of one's belongings
and know, without opening the purse,
which end contains tickets and which
samples and banknotes for these two
shoDDlng requisites Demg oi tne same
general texture they are usually car
ried in the same compartment oi wo
man's purse.
Parse Is Copy of Old Style.
In the old days ring purses trimmed
with tiny cut steel beads were the fa
vorites, and the more beads the hand
somer the purse. An entire purse of
steel beads was an expensive affair if
bought outright and a labor of love if
made by hand for a friend. Iridescent
beads in peacock blues and greens
combined with steel or gilt were also
high In favor and these old-fashioned
V 'x-
i. " n
v i
: i.
than It is at the front. A small bow
of black plcot ribbon Is set at the front
of the crown, and from this two para
dise aigrettes sweep backward. With
this hat Is shown one of the new
Robespierre collars for Fall, and as a
rule tho chic little Amazon hat must
be accompanied by very smart, high
neckwear it It Is to have the popular
effects are being copied in the new ring
purse of today.
n.i n .. t .t.,.AA 4,, , nlftiirkd la
J 1 1 n HI 31 1,4 1,1, 4.4- bu. I' - -
a direct copy of an. old-fashioned purse
and the knitted silk fabric of the purse
as well as the steel beads and trim
mings is treated wltn a special ays to
i . nK f n r.a ThA Interior of
61C 11 1 . 41144 4 4.4 4. f- ' . - -
the purse is lined with glove silk.
The purse in the center is a larger
model than the little "finger" purses at
either side. This large ring purse Is
made of dark gray Jersey siik ana is
... i .i.. ..,,.1 ta oitt hAnjifi- ThA
LI 1 1 1 1 11 1 .4i 14 iii, ,".' . ' n - - -
rings are of carved steel and this purse.
... .. . . , . 1 ..J. .vlmmAjl
HKe tne otners, uae me c"4in w ....4
in contrasting style. A purse of this
size may be tossed over the wrist snd
will hold small packages and a vanity
outfit as well as the handful of change
and theater or car tickets usually re
quired by the woman in a large city.
Little Purse for Dainty Costume.
The third purse Is the smallest of all
and Is a dainty little affair, especially
favored for use with dressy costumes.
These little purses are also carried to
church and Just about hold one's doer
key and the amount for carfare and
collection In one end. while a rosary
may be dropped la the other end. This
little purse is made entirely of glass
beads, the beads being in opalescent
coloring with a steel bead at each in
tersection of the strands. Under this
open bead mesh is a lining of glovs
silk In pastel yellow. These rings are of
carved steel and fringe and tassel on
the ends are made of the opalescent
glass beads.
barge ring purses for ffTeater use are
of brocaded silk and are roomy enough
to contain vanity belongings snd opera
glass. Still larger evening bags in the
ring purse shape will carry my lady's
slippers to a dance, her gloves and
vanity belongings being tucked Into
the opposite end of the bag. Such,
bags are carried conveniently over the)
arm under the evening cape.
Knon o failures. Slntli-Cttie
Ir- Harmless - Certain. CooMic
etrlhr applied la the prttecj st roar
home. Sold (or 20 rearm, Doa't
iperlment with its thle-.t an
; risk ruining four hair bo! try this
simple tod tun randy. Contains
so lead, talphnr or other fcamfot
' Ingredient. Reeosmondod tod
Died with utlttartloa br those
nda. it firtt-class druggist
$1.00. SaaiBls ind Book trts
on rtqoett.
'YOUNG . .
151 Third M., Portland.
4. N .
Xx - .
f ST . sk V " Pi. m TV