ELABORATE SUMMER COSTUMES -
COMBINE STYLE AND COMFORT
Two Pretty Lingerie Frocks. Pictured Are Equally Appropriate for Wear oa the Street or for Afternoon and
ETening Wear in the House Buttoned (Words of White Buckskin Complete Costume.
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EVEN" short sojourn In Xew Tork
in midsummer is likely to call for
a more or less formal and elab
orate costume, for dinner or theater
wear, or in case an unexpected Invi
tation makes a smart gown necessary.
The feature of this pretty eowa of
voile and Venise lace Is the odd sash
arrangement of gray embroidered satin
which starts in a square bib at back
and front and covers one hip. the ends
beir.fr gracefully knotted just over the
opposite knee. Gray net veils the lace
bodice and is used for hems under the
flounces and at the sleeve edge. Patent
leather oxfords with buttoned black
satin tops accompany this gown.
This taffeta coat and skirt suit com
bines the panntar and narrow skirt in
somewhat sensational effect, but the
model is an authoritative expression of
the Summer mode and halls direct from
Farls. The cutaway coat, pannier and
draped sash at the knee are of shot taf
feta in navy blue and green, and the
pleated voile skirt of sage green voile
is dropped over a blue foundation;. The
coat Is smart with its pleated frills
and sleeve short enough to show the
long embroidered silk glove. A stun
ning hat of blue hemp with green trim
ming and a sago green parasol accom
pany this Paris afternoon cootume.
Either of the two pretty lingerie
frocks pictured might be worn In the
street with hat and gloves on a sultry
Summer day; and either would be
equally appropriate for bouse wearj
during the afternoon or evening. The
frock on the standing figure Is of
whlce voile with a border of blue and
white embroidery most effectively used
In combination with ball fringe. There
is a sash of blue satin and the white
hat is faced with darker blue silk.
White silk gloves- embroidered in
white and buttoned oxfords of white
buckskin lend the formal suggestion of
an out-of-door costume. The other
frock is a simple model of eyelet em
broidered voile with bands of crochet
trimming.
Answers to Correspondents
BT LILIAX TINGLE.
PORTLAND. Or.. July 11. 1 noticed in
your Sunday column that you had Elven
receipts for making colored rose beaJs in
the Sunday paper of Jui SO. Now I have
procured a copy from the bnstnesa office,
as directed, but cannot find any receipt for
making them. Tou etate that you will pub
lish the receipt in a separata column, but I
have searched the wholt paper without
finding It. Will you pleaae mall ma the re
ceipt, if you cannot publish it? I will en
close stamped envelope. 1 want this badly
or should never bother you about it.
. MRS. L. S.
YOU will find directions for mak
ing several varieties of rose
beads, both black and colored. In
the Sunday Oregonian for June JO, sec
tion 5. page 10. I regret that It is not
possible for me to mall receipts, or to
make personal replies to my many
correspondents.
PORTLAND Or. Will you kindly print
direction for making roaw beads T
MRS. S. P.
Directions were given June 30 and
therefore cannot be reseated at pres
ent. Tou can probably obtain a copy of
the paper from the business office.
PORTLAND. Or.. July 13. I have had
such good luck with your receipt for pink
rose beads that 1 am now ambltloua to
make gr;n ones as tusgeated in your re
ceipt. Will you kindly tell me what kind
of "green fragrant leaves" would be suit
able. Thanking you in advance.
MRS. M. B. F.
Sweet briar, sweet clover, sweet
balm, lemon verbena, rose geranium,
lemon thyme, or any other perfumed
leaf that you like and can obtain in
abundance would be suitable: I think
yon will find the "dry" method prefer
able for these. - as the beads are less
likely to ferment and darken. Be sur6
your leaf-powder Is sifted and re-sifted,
or the beads will not be smooth.
A few drops oil of rosemary, verbena,
lavender, or whatever you choose, is
usually a good addition. You will prob
ably want a little artificial "fruit col
oring," oil paint (artists' paint, not
house paint) or vegetable dye to give
the color you desire. Sometimes blue
rather than green Is needed, when the
pulp tends to turn yellow or brownish.
Do not use too much artificial color
ing -a very common fault.
The commercial "dyes for vegetable
fibres" are sometimes good for use in
the "cooked method." where flour paste
and gum tragacanth are sometimes
used as "fillers." Ordinary talcum
powder is very useful for the kneading
of the lighter-colored beads.
FOREST GROVE. Or.. July IS. I would
say that I tried the receipt for making red
rose beads, but In drying, mine are turned
black or a dark brown and are Just ao
wrinkled. Will you please tell me what was
wrong? I made them just according to the
receipt given in The Sunday Oregonian.
A SUBSCRIBER.
Tou do not say which of the sev
eral very different methods you fol
lowed; so it is rather difficult for me
to guess where your mistakes lie. As
to color, you may have expected dark
roses to give light colored beads; or
vou may have used too little orris pow
der cr you may have used too much
coloring; or you may have used the
"black" pulp method without anything
to check discoloration. The blackness
Is due to a kind of ferment, correspond
inff to that which gives us black tea.
Read the directions again, carefully.
also the suggestions given aoove, ana
I think you will have no difficulty.
Tito roughness of the beads may have
hem due to any of several causes:
First Failure to clip off the thick
fleshy end of the petals, which of
coure hinder the making or a per
fectly smooth pulp.
Second Failure to jrrind or pulver
ize the petals perfectly. If "petal
powder" is used it must be finely
rubbed and sifted through a hair sieve.
If the ground raw pulp Is used, it
must be ground as many times as may
be necessary - to get " It aosoiuteiy
smooth; the same is true of cooked
nuln.
Third Failure to knead the pulp
very thoroughly before and during the
hanln nrocess.
Fourth Wrong consistency of the
null for shaDins:.
Fifth Too rapid drying of the beads.
Manv makers recommend crying in
box, rather In the air, particularly in
warm weather.
Sixth Failure to rub and smooth
the beads .over, to give the desired
finish. I think I warned you that the
beads are somewhat tedious to make
and never very artistic when made.
SEATTLE. Wash.. June 7. While In the
city this Sprins I think I read In your
paper the receipt for violet beads. 1 would
consider it a great favor If you will for
ward It to the loslowm? aaaresses. ic:tfc'
ing you for your kindness. 3ISi. E. V. E.
I regret that I am unable to make
per3onRl replies to correspondents.
Several receipt appeared June 30, sec
tion 5, page 10. Possibly you can ob
tain this- number by writing to the
business office. If you can't get violets
and want purple beads from rose petals,
follow the direction for making pink or
red beads and add a touch of blue col
oring. '
PORTLAND. Or., July 17. As you seem
to be an authority on all things feminine
and moat important things masculine, may
. mr w.m i-omft forward with a aueBtlon?
Why is it that so many women of all ages
..o-n nt nrrapnl lrresifitlhllv impelled tO
mangle, dry and mummify the corpses of
what were once ueauiuui rpafB. uuu n.
string these atrocious remnants round their
necks? While the roses from which they
are made were no doubt at one time lovely,
surely no one can say the same of these
horrid relics. Many babies are also beau
tiful: why then should not the dear little
dried Imsers ana toes oi ueuu niiiiiiis u
strun? in necklaces of "baby beads?" I
fc:ive heard that such a custom is followed
In some countries. It would puzzle me to
say which of these two species of necklace
would be tho leas attractive to the mascu-
Ine eye. PUZZLED BACHELOR.
I shall evidently have to start a sepa
rate "bead column" if this goes on, and
even mere men ask me bead questions.
As far as I know the reason for mak
ing and wearing rose beads is, in the
words of Lord Dundreary, "One of
those things no feller can under
stand." You have my sympathy. The
rose bead epidemic is one whlcn re
curs every few years in oirierent
Dlaccs as "something new." Actually,
of course, it is not "new" at all; but
It is "more easily caught than the
plague, and the taker runs presently
mad." The only thing is to nave pa
tience, let them make and wear the
beads, and "get it out of their sys
tems," as it were. Already I observe
signs of abatement. One sees just as
manv beads on the streetcars; but 1
notice also a tendency to get rid of
strings, formerly prized, by sending
them "back East," in the nope mat
they are not so common there.
One girl who proudly displayed her
rose beads a year or two ago told me
recently that she "wouldn't be found
dead in them." So cheer up. I don't
think many women will adopt your
other gruesome susrestion. At least
I hope not, because I like babies even
more than I like roses; but I have a
linsrerinc suspicion that there are wo
men to be found who would 'ear even
"babv beads." If these were import
ed" (from the countries you refer to),
if the price was sufficiently high, and
If they were assured that "baby beads"
were the very latest exclusive nov
elty."
"If you think I am too nara on some
members of my own sex. Just con
sider the matter of aigrettes, Persian
lamb, and many other examples of
heartless adornment that have been
worn by some of us wltnout a snuaaer.
If H. R. C. (Portland) will write
again I shall be glad to give her the
sweetbread patty filling recipe, which
t wrote for her. nut wnicn seems to
have been omitted from my last week's
correspondence.
PORTLAND. Or.. July 17. A year ago I
visited some friends who lived on a farm.
aii iii, n-hllA T was there (two weeks). I
saw a pan of something in the oven with
the ovn door open. anaiiy asaea wnn ii
was. and the girl (the "hired girl") said
it was string beans she was drying for
winter use. In the Winter you soak them
and they taste Just as good as fresh ones.
Can you tell me now to oo it, ana now ions
to soak them? They were cut lengthwise.
Many "thank-yous" if you will.
MRS. H. E. S.
I know of a number of housekeep
ers, with gardens, who dry. Instead of
can, a part of their Winter supply of
corn, voune- neas and string beans. The
vegetables must be young and freshly
gathered. As you say the beans are
best cut into tnin lengtnwise snreas,
or long diagonal shreds, which pos
sibly are neater in appearance. They
must be protected from dust while
drying, and may be done in a very
slow, or open-doored oven, such as you
describe, or in hot sunshine. When
quite dry. I think they are best stored
in air-tieht tins. When wanted for
use. they are rinsed, soaked (over
night, or until swollen to their natural
size) and then cooked like fresh vege
tables. The usual amount of salt, a
half teasooon of sugar and a tiny
pinch of soda, should be added to the
cooking water.
PORTLAND. Or., July 10. Tour column
has alwavs been so helpful to me. You
will observe that I. too. have been "sav
ing up" some questions.
(1) ts mayonnaise ura . i.u.v
or Just a French dressing?
CJi How is beef tongue prepared?
(if) How Is a corn pudding made?
I shall be very grateful to you for your
rejly. HOUSEKEEPER.
1 am very glad you find this column
useful. Write again any time you have
more questions "saved up."
1. Mayonnaise, especially mayonnaise
modified with whipped cream. Is quite
frequently served in this country with
fruit salads, although the "classic"
cook books based on French traditions
are inclined to discourage combinations
of egg and fruit. It Is largely a mat
ter of personal taste and digestive
power. French dressing is usually In
good taste, and Is usually more easily
digested than the more complicated
dressings. Mayonnaise Is quite fre
quently seen with the "half sweet"
fruit salads that Include celery as an
ingredient.
Whipped cream dressing, both sweet
and sour, syrup, wine, or gelatine
dressings, are also used for fruit sal
ads, especially when these are used
as combination ot salad and dessert
TROT ABOUT" FROCK OF LINEN FOR
SUMMER WEAR PROVES POPULAR
Pink Is Smart Color Now Dress Buttons All Way Down Front With Pearl Buttons New Bell Sleeve Has
TJndersleeve of White Mull, and Long Gloves Are Worn.
T
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HE linen frock is supremely the
thing this sumner lor wear in the
street on hot days and for gen
eral trotting- about on shopping ex
peditions or short excursions out of
town in weather too sultry for Any
material possessing- a thread of wool. .
This little frock of pink linen is es
pecially smart, though It is simple
enough to tub satisfactorily. It but
tons all the way down the front with
pearl buttons and tho big rever of
white handkerchief linen, hemstitched
at the edge, is also buttoned down
with pearl buttons.
The new bell sleeve has an under-
sleeve of white mull and long ellk
gloves embroidered In pink are worn
with the frock. White buttoned boots
complete the costume.
.Lightweight serge in a very pale
shade of Wedgewood blue was used
for this charming tailored costume for
beach wear on cool summer evenings.
Under the coat Is a very elaborate
hand-made blouse of lace and mull,
at
suitable for the restaurant dinner
the beach.
The suit has graceful, modish lines
and the collar and cuffs of white moire
sillc, with wnite pearl buttons on the
cutaway front, add to the daintiness.
A white hat with light blue wings,
white kid gloves and buttoned boots
of white buckskin, complete a charm
ing and appropriate semi-outlng costume.
courses, or as independent "refresh
ments." These dressings, especially
the sweet, ones; are not very suitable
for a salad-course that Is to be fol
lowed by a regular "dessert."
2. In choosing a beef tongue select
one that is plump, with a cool, clean
looking smooth skin, as it is thus more
likely to be young and tender. Many
people prefer pickled or smoked
tongues to fresh ones. They are all
cooked In much the same way, but a
fresh tongue, or one just taken from
the pickle, only requires to be very
thoroughly washed In cold water be
fore beine; cooked, while a smoked
tongue will need to be soaked in cold
water at least over night. A tongue
that has been long In pickle may also
need a little soaking in fresh water
to get rid of some of the salt. '
After washing or soaking, put It on
Into a kettle, in cold water,, with a
few tablespoons of vinegar, an onion
stuck with three or four cloves, a big
niece of parsley, a tiny bit of bay leaf.
a few pepper corns and a strip of yel
low lemon rind. Bring to -tne boll,,
skim carefully, then simmer gently
from three to four hours, according' to
size. The long, slow cooking may be
done very satisfactorily in a fireless
cooker, the time depending on the age
and size of the tongue and upon the
temperature obtainable in the cooker.
When done enough the skin will peel
quite easily.
Then take it up.' skin and trim It
while hot. If to be used cold it may
then be skewered In a "standing" po
sition, by root and tip, to a board, and
then glazed and garnished according
to taste. It is carved by cutting cross
wise. Or it may be curled upon Itself, and
set in a straight-sided tin or mould,
lined with clear savory jelly (already
set) with or .without garnish. The
mould is then filled up with cool
savory jelly and a plate or board with
a slight weight Is placed upon the
tongue to keep It In position. This,
when unmoulded. is sliced across the
ton in round slices lengthwise of the
tongue, and since a little root and a
little jelly go wltn eacn neiping
tongue served this way usually "goes
further" than by the first method.
Potato, vegetable or green salad is a
good accompanment to the cold sliced
tongue. The remains may be used
alone or combined with other meats
in a salad, souffle, sandwich-paste,
croquettes or meal loaf. The choicer
parts can be used alone, or in meat
and vegetable combinations, with any
SCARLET BOOT AND HOSE
CHIC FOR SUMMER WEAR
Milady's Costume of Severe Black Also Set Off With Red Silk Petticoat
and Red Parasol White Boot Is Fashion.
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SEWEST THINGS IS FUOTVVKAH.
ITH white tailored suits and
dainty white frocks, white boots
and pumps are the only possible
thing for Summer smartness; but there
is a fad Just at the moment for scar
let footwear, worn with black frocks.
Usually there Is a companion touch of
scarlet In a red parasol, or an edge
of red silk petticoat peeping out be
neath the hem of the frock.
The red kid pump pictured here is
a very smart little affair with a Colo
nial tongue and metal buckle, and It
has a sole and heel appropriate for
board walking or any other sort of
Summer strolling. With these gay red
pumps are wrorn red silk stockings, or
black silk stockings with red clocks
at the sides.
The white buttoned boot is the ac
cepted style for use with formal cos
tumes of white material, and Is made
of white buckskin with pearl buttons
set close together, and a moderately
high Cuban heel of dark leather. For
more ceremonious wear there are
dainty boots of white satin with French
heels and turned soles and buttons of
crystal.
The trim white Colonial pump Is also
of buckskin and has a very graceful,
pointed toe and a high arch under the
Instep though the heel Is a moderate
Cuban style for comfortable walking:.
good hot sauce, as a patty or tlmbale
filling.
If the tongue is to be served hot. It
may be wrapped in buttered paper,
after being skinned and trimmed, and
reheated by simmering for another 20
minutes. It can be served with a large
variety of sauces and vegetable garn
ishes or accompaniments.
A baked tongue is first prepared as
above. Then when cold and in good
shape. Instead of being glazed. It is
brushed with beaten egg, rolled in
sifted crumbs, brushed or basted with
a little melted butter and baked half
an hour in a well-heated oven, or it
may be baked in a paper bag. Red
currant or other tart Jelly and a good
brown sauce are suitable accompaniments.
For braising, the tongue Is prepared
as above, and, after Bkimming, it is
tied or skewered Into shape and given,
slow cooking with a few vegetables
and a small quantity of Btrong gravy
(with which it Is occasionally basted)
until It is richly flavored and tender.
A casserole can be used for this. A
sweet-sour sauce with raisins or a dark
wine sauce often goes with braised
tongue.
Where tongue is being cooked es
pecially for salads, sandwiches or
creamed dishes. It Is well, after skim
ming, to return It to the kettle and let
It cool in its own stock.
43) I hope this is what you want:
Blue grass corn pudding, eight young
ears of corn, one tablespoonful butter,
one cup rich milk, one teaspoonful of
flour, salt and pepper to taste, two
eggs (or. If you feel rich, three eggs),
well beaten; split the rows of corn and
press out the tender pulp with a knife.
Beat the eggs light and mix with the
corn pulp and other Ingredients. One
half teaspoonful of sugar is a good ad
dition. Set in a pan of hot water and
bake until just set. If overbaked, the
pudding will be curdled and watery.
Serve as a meat economizer or as a
meat substitute with broiled tomatoes.
A little very finely chopped green pep.
per may be added if liked.
Bye Gems.
Washington (D. C.) Herald.
Rye gems require one and two-thirds
cupfuls of rye flour, one and one-third
cupfuls flour, four teaspoonfuls baking
powder, one teaspoonful salt, one
fourth cup molasses, one and one
fourth cupfuls of milk, two eggs, three
tablespoonfuls melted butter. Mix and
sift dry ingredients, add molasses, milk,
eggs, well beaten, and butter. Bake
in hot oven In buttered gem pans 25
minutes.
I A. - MRS. NETTIE HRRIS0HS
LOIR HOKTEZ
E:nili'tlelT Ollci!i. Hillsettn tni mmjirhlfr tfferttn
for WrmklM tntf Msuaci. II It s I'M cosipltilos
beastMsr and tfottttm. Bis melt trf 29 rn itT
Cultsrt prjctlet snfl the sckne-Aleilgptl Dtrleetlos et toilet
crtami. Jar ( 3 nonthi trastimst 1 7S cents stall druggist
FDCC SarspH tui Ulvastlof look os sat
IILC-- ,ut, cujtsra to Hones Bar as M it
U. . SKIDMORB DRTJO CO, l&5k
101 Third St, Portland.