TIIF. SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, JUNE 2, 1912.
tresses. Exceedingly smsrt also are
the aigrette coiffure ornaments which
are piquant and dashing, and less try
ing than the coquettish rose, which Is
only for the beauty. These aigrette or
naments are attached to ribbon or
metal fillets and slant out from the
head at most outrageous anglea; and
the more outrageous the angle, 'some
how, the smarter the effect. For the
debutante there are adorable dancing
frocks of frilled white net with aix or
eight small rufflea on the skirt and
babyish sashes around the waist. A
deep bertha usually falls over tha arm
and the decolletage Is modest and
youthful.
YELLOW IS PREDOMINATING COLOR
IN EVENING WEAR FOR SMART SET
Pannier Draperies Affected to Maintain Slender Linei of Figure Satin Boots and Slippers Are in General Use for
Dancing Aigrettes Are Given a Marked Tilt, Which Adds Greatly to Their Attractiveness.
HARLEQUIN BOOT IS MUCH WORN;
SO ALSO IS THE TRAVELING FROCK
Bhinestones to Decorate Stockings Are round Very retching Hosiery Being Worn in Same Sdase as Gowns.
Glove Silk Highly Popular.
r
:
Hints for Verania Sewing
c
V
7
i
I
...
A.
Ocsatnt XamatsisP .a93
iv N tnUrtln feature In avenlng
iR drcaa now la tha predominance of
yallow. No llplay of handiome
vantng- fowna la without Ita compla
inant of yellow models and tha fash
ionable yellowa ranne from a pale buff
tint to a deep canary. Quantities of
lace uaed aa trimming; (often theaa yrl
lw towns and prevent any suggestion
oi tha crudenesa thai strong yellow
tunes In costume are apt to have; and
sometimes veilings of white chiffon, or
fine net over yellow satin, produce
moat beautiful effect. Few of tha yel.
lew gowns are relieved wtth black, for
this combination, though sometimes
chic and striking, has not the harmony
and delicacy of pale yellow aoftened
with white lace. Now and then one
aas a black velvet sssh or a drapery
of black diamante net used with yel-le-w;
but the golden glint or the gown
Is first suhdued with a veiling of white,
an that the contrast produced by the
bhack touch Is never too strong.
Gea la Popular Color.
Neit to yellow. Jade green seems to
be the favorite. In truth these two
sophisticated colors have almost driven
the Innocent pinks and blues from tha
field, except for debutant wear. Jade
g''een Is a particularly sophisticated
shade and a very lovely one. when
combined with delicate white lac and
trimmings of pearl or crystal.
A Jade green chiffon dinner gown de.
signed by Cherult for wear during tha
coming Newport season haa the classic
ally simple lines which mark the aris
tocratic evenlnar costume now. There la
a tunic of the Jade green chiffon fall
ing over a skirt of white satin, and sil
vr fringe at the foot of tha tunic
make It drag heavily over the close
fitting skirt beneath. Down the center
bi.ck of the gown, from ahoulder to
end of train, goes a band of sparkling
diamante trimming five Inchea wide
and thla Is flank. I. below" the waist, by
aish ends of black velvet which throw
' rhlnestone panel Into high relief.
Orrr the shoulders, bust and arms
droop graceful bertha draperiea of the
green chiffon, weighted with the sil
ver frlngs and starting at the back from
panel of diamante trimming. When
a tiny edge of this sparkling trimming
cata from tl to S3 a yard, the expen
alvenesa of a five-Inch band from
shoulder to skirt hem may be Imagined.
Bat no couturier will touch a grand
toilette for evening wear now for less
tian a thousand franca or about 1200
ol American money and nowadaya the
otdlnary dressmaker asks, at the very
least, 125 for the mer making of an
evening gown: this price not Including
a single Item of material. And the or
dinary dressmaker cannot build a sat
isfactory evening gown either her fet
ish Is fit and anything resembling what
uaed to be called "a neat fit" Is the
ruination of a modern evening coetume,
which should fail In lovely long lines
and classic drapery effects and suggest
the natural, uncorseted figure rather
than a smartly-laced and corseted one.
The women who run across. In May.
to pick up half a dosen dinner and
dnce gowns for later wear at New
pert. Bar Harbor, Manchester-by-the-H-a.
and at the Lenox and Tuxedo col
or. lea, are bringing back the most ador
aMa creations of lac and soft crepe
meteor and always one gown of yel
low travels In the tlaaued-packed trays
of the special costume trunk, long
rMtvli to curry skirts laid ou at full
length. Most of these- lovely Hummer
evening gowns show paunler draperies
of one sort or another, and lace la a
particular favorite for effects of this
srt, as It drupes beautifully without
giving bulk of line.
A pretty dinner gown, suitable for
the hostess at an Informal country
I-
i
lv,
e- - . "
house dinner comes from Drulhle and
la of lilac and whit striped taffeta,
with a trailing skirt and a smart lace
coat which falls to ths knees at the
back and has a cutaway Una at the
front, ehowlnir a good deal of the
striped silk skirt. All the way down
the center front of coat and aklrt are
diamante buttons and tha coat Is belted
with silver ribbon, a diamante buckle
being set at the front. Tha lac coat
has sleeves to the elbow, finished with
wide frills of fine Mechlin, and three
little silver ribbon bows with diamante
bucklea are set on the outer aide of
the sleeve above the frllL The dec
olletege Is square, with a turned-back
collar of Mechlin lace, rising at the
hack In the stately Rohesplcrre effect.
The gown Is made complete by a cluater
of purple violets at the left of the cor
sage. I'Mlnesr 1 Darlag.
Trailing evening gowns for Summer
wear are accompanied by satin slip
pers with small, dainty ornaments of
rhlnestones; or by high satin boots
with crystal or smoked pearl buttons.
These satin boots are formal and have
tall, cxtereme beela of the Louis type.
Button -oxfords, also of satin, and ex
'.I
:
t j ;
SUMMER FOOTWEAR
DISPLAYS COQUETRY
Tall Boot of Satin, Black Satin Buttons, Oxford and White Colonial
. Pnmps Among Pretty Designs for Evening Use.
' f -
'y
ii.:-;i:-W,:f7.
4Vv
r x
LATEST l.X
THE little boots and slippers for
Summer evening wear are full of
coqtietry, and It seems hard to be
lieve that any more fetching footwear
was ver devised. Tall boots ot satin
are especially fashionable and the whit
satin boot pictured Is very distin
guished, with Its crystal buttons and
stately Louis heel. Less stately but
particularly coquettish Is the button
oxford of Llack aatln. Intended for wear
with handsome, afternoon gowns and
black ' evening gowns. The heel Is a
moderate Louis type, very comfortabla
V:
'V : V'V
1
V
V .. v. .
quisitely pretty and dainty In line, have
French heels of a more moderate type
and are liked by women who cannot
wear a slipper with comfort. There Is
a fad for vividly-colored silk stockings
wtth black evening gowns. American
Beauty stockings being the favorites.
There la no telling how long thla quae?
whim will last, but at present a num
ber of women whose word or whose
example, rather Is law In the satorlal
realm, are appearing with cerise, yel
low and even green hoae. worn with
the chic button-oxforda of black satin.
A dinner gown, made daring by such
footwear at a Washington dinner the
other night, was of diamante black net.
draped, envelop fashion, over a trail
ing black charmeuse aklrt. There was
not a touch of color on the gown, but
the American Beauty silk stockings
were matched by a glowtnfr rose In the
coiffure, and the long black silk gloves
had tiny embroidered roses In Ameri
can Beauty color.
The single rose In the hair Is ap
pearing again after a long era of fil
lets and "headache" bands and several
youthful beauties have appeared lately
with the hair piled high on tha top of
the head, a rose being caught against
the shining mass of blonde or brunette
FOOTUEAR,
for dancing, and the row of black but
tons, aet near th confer front of the
Instep, makes the foot look very slen
der. Whit calf Colonial pumps ar th
correct choice for plazxa and evening
wear with linger! and semi-formal
evening frocks. These pumps have
leather-covered wood heels and bucklea
across the front give the tru Colonial
character. For evening wear slippers
of black aatln with pointed toe and
high heels show off embroidered silk
sto.klngs effectively. The smartest of
thee slippers hav very small rhlne
stone) ornaments on th to.
Corset sachets are new coquetries,
and they make the daintiest veranda
sewing. Little bags about two Inches
by two tn sise are made of different
colored satins, and after the sweet pow
der Is put In. and they are sewed up, a
littlo gilt safety pin Is attached to I
each one. This pin fastens the sweet
ener to the corset at the front steel,
where It would be hidden by the full
ness of the dress. Little, bundles of
six sachets, tied up prettily with rlb-
I bon and topped by a wee bud with
green leaves, are sold In the shops for
a dollar and a half. The same number
can be made for 60 cents at home, and
It Is always better to use the same per
fume In all. A bundle of corset sa
ceta In different colors blue, pink,
violet, green, gray and white would
be an acceptable birthday gift to a
yoting girl.
The very great vogue of collar and
cuff sets Invites the home making of
these charming accessories, and those
gifted with any needle skill can turn
out th most elegant trlflea very
cheaply. A very fine linen lawn with
hand embroidery and a frill of Valen
ciennes or some other fine lace are the
materials of tha choicest collar sets,
and stamped piece tn the newest cuts
can be bought for home making. In
expensive sets in the shops sre of plain
white organdy with hemstitched edges,
and these many women tinker up very
charmingly vcith -outlining of black
and white lace. First a white lace frill
Is put around the set, and then this Is
topped by tha black one. Black and
white dotted muslin, treated In the
same double row of lace, makes a very
effective set. The most stylish col
lars have a deep dip In the back, com
ing In some Instances almost to th
waist. If the fronta are cut square
they are short, but If pointed they may
be quite long. An emergency collar
and cuff set for a useful wool gown, or
a stout linen dress or a pretty dotted
foulard, would be a treasure to have on
hand. When other sets are soiled it Is
ready for us and It Is fin for travel
ing. A sleeveless Jumper of black taffeta,
with talis or a sash at the back. Is a
smart novelty of the moment, and
after the over fixing haa been fitted
and stitched It could very easily be
finished on th veranda. A -decided
feature of these sleeveless overtiouses,
which will top all sorts of littlo wafh
frocks this hummer. Is a deep arm
hole going almost to the waist. The
jumpers are trimmed about with cords
of narrow puffings and although they
are seen In every color black Is the
most useful tiling.
Mat cockades make pretty excuses
for other pick-up sewing, and although
thev mar be made of almost anytning,
and of next to nothing, they are quit
dear when bought ready made. Black
taffeta allk scraps, bits of natural-col
ored linen, odd buttons, wisps ot un
usual ribbon and numerous other
materials are used for these aid orna
ments. On girl did wonders with a
variety of different silk scraps, turning
them with the aid of a few lumps of
cotton Into a very rich Imitation of s
bunch of som Strang fruit or other.
a rw rents bouaht the reaulred num
ber of green leaves, and the bunch of
big grapes or plums- had quit in air
of a French novelty. Hats are so sim
ply trimmed, and they will be so light
ly decked during the hotter weather,
that a supply of fresh cockade seems
quit advisable. One gets tired of th
old ornament, and It soon wears out
anyway. MARY dean.
Xlccncas of a Custanl.
National Magazine.
What can be more appetizing than a
properly-made custard,-and what pud
ding affords such opportunity for va
riety tn cooking? It can be baked,
boiled, steamed plain, or combined with
fruit or pastry, and may be made with
few egga or many, according to the
depth of the housekeeper s pocKetoooK.
The preparation presents little dirn-
culty. but the novice must guard
against haste. On no account may a
custard be cooked quickly; a alow
ateady heat la necessary, whether for
baking or steaming. When ready It
may he served hot or cold. Her is a
custard that Is nice for serving with
fruit pies or with stewed fruit, hot or
cold: Boll two cupful of milk,
four heaping tablespoonf uls of su
gar, two bay leaves and a small
piece of lemon rind for five min
utes. Stir two tablespoonf uls of
cornstarch Into half a cupful of cold
milk; add It to the boiled milk; let It
boll for two or three minutes. Have
ready In a basin six yolks of eggs beat
en up, and pour upon them th hot
mixture, stirring well together. Re
turn all to the aaucepan. and stir over
the fir till It thicken; do not let It
boll or It will curdle. Strain Into a
dish or glasses and serv cold. Sprlnkl
a little pink sugar on th top or
crushed macaroons.
Farmer Boiled Dlaaer. For a fam
lly of six get three pounds or four of
plat beef fresh or corned seeing
that therf la a moderate amount of
lean. Do not wash the fresh meat;
scrap It off with a sharp knife and
then wipe It over with a damp cloth.
Give the owned beef a thorough wash
ing and then let It soak In fresh water
far half an hour or more. Put either
meat on In frilling water so as to keep
In some of the Juices. Let It simmer
for an hour, and then add the follow
ing vegetables: On bunch of carrots,
half a new cabbage, three leeks, two
onions, three celery roots, a bunch of
white beets, tope as well. Twenty min
utes before taking up the delicious
mess put In whit potatoes. If they are
liked. Add no salt to the corned beef,
and season the other after the meat Is
tender. Boiled meats must always be
almmered. aa hard tolling makea them
tough and tasteless. Do not us too
Much water.
Boiled Ham and Spinach. This may
be prepared with fresh ham or amoked.
and It la a almple enouxh matter to get
the spinach ready the day before, keep
ing It fresh In a large tin pan placed on
the cellar floor.
Take the knuckle end of tha ham and
clean It thoroughly that la, th
smoked bam and then put It on In
enough boiling water to cover It. Add
th spinach one hour before serving;
when It is tender the dish Is ready. To
many persons spinach is more delicious
If left unchopped. It is a little more
substantial served In this msnner, and
the method Is convenient for busy days.
Only black or cayenne pepper Is needed
for this dish unless th ham la fresh or
not sufficiently salt to season th
greens.
Strawberry Ice Mash strawberries
to make a pint of Juice after It has
been strained through a sieve; mix with
the juice a boiled and strained syrup
made of one and a half pounda of sugar
and one quart of water; flavor th Juice
of half a lemon with a little orang
f lower water and add that to th other
Ingredients. Color with a little carmine
tf th mtxtur Is not sufficiently rosy,
strain again and freeze. Serv In broad
wineglasses with spoon. . j
mii rr w-" ' 1111
c o fm&m : : n
-J : -l ,-' i f - -.A y . . -
h I i v
f :'0
U- ml ' M "
1 :;.-
W: .: A
jcyi&vcjir .erf-
THE Harlequin boot a new magpie
- style the latest In footwear.
Black and wl.lt. or "magpie"
footwear, as It is popularly called. Is
always a bit extreme to th conserva
tive woman's thinking; but nothing
more extreme than the new harlequin
boot, one Imagines, has ever been
brought out tn footwear for my lady.
The harlequin boot la white buckskin
and part black calf, the whit half
stopping exactly at the aeams down the
front end back of the boot so that tne
outer slJe la all white and the Inner
aide all black. White pearl buttona run
down the outer side and the boot haa
the supple cut of a Juliet slipper with
no division between top and vamp, and
the only seams, the long ones that dl
vide the black and white leathers,
Toweling frocks grow mora and mor
popular. Linen fabrics are to be picked
up at surprisingly low prices on th
bargain tables. In consequence. Usu
ally the toweling costume Is trimmed
lavishly with whit pearl buttona and
Farlsan models of this character have
the Inevitable touch of black, even
when a color Is used In the trimming.
A pretty frock of toweling stuff. In
Fifth-avenue window, has strappings
of jade green faille on which ar rows
of whit pearl buttona and whit loops.
Th belt, however. Is of black taffeta
and there la an echoing touch of black
In the patent leather buttoned boots
displayed beside the costume.
Long scarves of glove silk the asm
beautifully woven silk of which tha
embroidered gloves are fashioned ar
worn over lingerie frocks at country
club and garden affairs. The scarves
are very long and are draped around
the shoulders, the ends falling over
the skirt to about the hips, where they
are crossed and carried back again, to
meet and fasten under a metal clasp at
the back of the figure. Sometimes the
ends are loosely knotted Instead of fas
tening with a clasp, but the clasp Is
easier to manage by th wearer of th
scarf when th light wrap la removed.
Silk stockings embroidered with
rhlnestones are the last extravagance
of my lady. The rhlnestones are sup
plied In the form of dewdropa, on em
broidered flower and the effect, when
the wearer la dancing. Is very fetch
ing and gay Indeed, for, of course, th
rhlnestones sparkle tn th light. ' A
pair of whit silk stockings embroid
ered with green clover leaves, have
rhlneatonea on the clover-leaf petal
and of cnurae among the three-leaved
clovers Is one four-leaved specimen
for luck. Colonial pumps ' or satin
slippers with rhlnestone buckles are
worn with these glittering stockings.
which are Intended only for gas light
wear.
Stockings to match the gown ar now
th whim, and after one haa become
accustomed to the Idea, the effect la
rather pleasing. A short taffeta
gown will have stockings In the hue
that is strongest In the changeable
weave: and with these colored stock
ings are worn the new buttoned ox
fords of black satin, which mak th
foot look so adorably small. Smoked
pearl or crystal buttona ar used on
these satin oxfords and the buttons ar
placed very near th front. which
gives the foot a trim and slender ap
pearance. The suitcase frock is now th thing
and all tha specialty shop which fur
nish "little frocks" at big prices are
providing their patrons with suitcase
costumes which may be packed, rolled
or folded Into a suitcase or even a
dresslng-bsg without injury. The
OX
(a!
- T. '". i 1
i -::y "
r:yyi.
i
i.:
frocks are usually built of soft silk,
chiffon taffeta being the favorite,
though foulards and tub silks are
used, and the models are stralgnt and
simple, with no fluffy trimmings to
be mussed easily or to take up space.
Of course such frocks are mad en
tirely without linings.
The womsn who likes something es
pecially dainty In the way of lingerie
la selecting Summer undcrgarmenta of
glove silk, which seem to strike the
extreme not of luxury In garb of this
character. The chemises, combina
tions and petticoats are not only made
of th exquisitely supple and soft
glove fabric but they are embroidered
daintily, as ar th long allk- gloves
so fashionable now. White or colors
may be chosen.
Menus for One
Week
Tnertsy.
fruit sou.
Henhure Almund cfcups. breaded.
Scalloped pnistoes. Asparagus.
Lettuce Halad.
Baktd euslard.
Coffe.
V. (.labia broth.
Lentet soup. Tomato saaca.
esc and pimento salad,
(strawberry shortcake,
c'offc.
Tamroday.
Cream of spinach soup.
Braised steak with eprlos vegetables.
Mah.d potatoes.
Lettuce salsd.
Oralis sli.rhoi wafers,
t'offse.
Friday.
Bouillon.
Baked salmon. bllced Cucumbers.
Potatoes. t'eas.
Lemon pi.
Coffee.
Saturday.
Brown rice soup,
af.st Halls la 'as.role.
NOW potato . Ftewel lettuce.
Apparatus sslsd.
Gooseberry pi.
C'offes.
aaaday.
Bouillon, with asparavus tlpa
Komi lamb. Mint uc.
Brown potatoes. Pea.
Banar.a salad.
8trzwberry sherbet.
Coffe.
Monday.
Cream of tartar vvsetaMe soup.
Cold sliced lamb. Potato salad.
Cheea fondil.
Hot popovcrs with apricot sauce.
Co f foe
The Art of Prpcrvln?.
Ladles' World.
Th first requirement for the suc
cessful canned product Is to hav per
fect fruit. I'nrlpe. over-ripe, or In
jured fruit should never be used. This
Is a sure cause for failure In "keep
ing" fruit. All fruit grown near th
ground, like strawberries, should be
carefully cleaned. The Jars must be
prepared with scientific conscience.
First, test each Jar with Its tested
cover and rubber by Itself, so when
you are ready to fill with th fruit
you ar sure It Is right- After cleans
ing and testing, sterilise Jars, covers
and rubbers by bringing to th boil
ing point In water. Rubbers should
never be used the second time. Th
small coat of a new rubber Is more
than compensated for In th entire
lack of risk, for rubber will deteriorate
by us and time.
Hav all th needed utensils ready at
hand, using only glass or porcelain hot.
ties or jars. K metal of any kind
r "
.... -3
.. CI
1
should bo used with fruit, as th scld
from It la detrimental. Stand th Jars
In hot water, whllo the 'fruit or veg
etable Is cooking. Fill and al ona
Jar at a time. Kinpty the water from
the Jar, place on a folded cloth wrung
out In hot water, or stand In a pan
with a little hot water, to prevent any
danger of brrnklng. Fill each Jar. or
bottle well and let all air buhblea es
cape. Wipe off tho edges carefully, fit
on th rubber (If you ar using Jars
with rubber rings) and screw down th
cover tightly.
llallaa Tomatoes Remove thin slices
from the stem end of six large hot
houa or Southern tomatoes. Scoop out
most of the pulp with a small spoon.
Then cook two-thirds of a cupful of
macaroni, broken In small pieces, tn
boiling salted water until soft. Drain
off the water and add the tomato pulp,
drained of extra Juice, and one-halt
cupful of grated cheese. Season high
ly with paprika and add salt to taste
Fill the tomato chscs with the mixture,
sprinkle tops with bread crumbs, add a
nut of butter, to each and bak half
an hour.
FAT FOLKS SLIM
MARJ3RIE
HAMILTON
SAYS
"FAT
VANISHES
ONE -
POUND
A DAY BY
MY NEW
DRUGLESS
TREAT-
MENT.
GET MY
FREE BOOK
AND
BEGIN
REDUCING
. 4 v
y srftf
AT ONCE"
Hiriant aara.ltaa Crtntf sit f rant
k IiMani al frtltttl Fairest
No drugs to take; no body-racking
exerclsea; no starvation diet; no sweat
ing garments; no pills, oils cathartics,
salts, no medicine of any kind. I lost
my enormous weight Jn a short tlm
and have never been stout since, and
through m lOO.Ono MEN AND WOMKN
ARK NOW TAKTNtJ MY DRUGI.LS.S
TRKATMENT. WHY NOT YOUT $i00
IN CASH IF I FAIL to prove my drug
less treatment anything but safe, quick
and harmless In fat reduction. Don't
wait until tomorrow; writ today for
my FltF.K BOOK containing all par
ticulars and let ma send you all I offer
free.
MARJOHIK HAMILTON,
nit 30 IT A Central llaak. Ill da;., Denver,
tela.
.TV 4
jwVau.V aw a.v ? ol