TIIE SUNDAY OREGOMAX. PORTLAND. MAY 19, 1912. LINEN TOPCOATS ON SMART LINES HAVE ENLARGED BUTTONHOLE MOTIFS Hoet of Needs Tilled by Ugtt Wrtp for Motoric f or Trayelinf Dtndn Oowni of White Batiste Promise to. Be Popular for Week-End Affairs This Summer. 111 ' J i ?V7? j; i I F" I "T " v:: -..-.) v: U - 1 I. : Sir i ; W : . u rh ' -: r " i i I I rK-r-r .; ,v - . lM ; I 1 L THESK e-.rrlnt coal) mr b worn for u:iimr molorlnn or lrrl Ice: thft kp the frork bnrath frh nt llntv. nl mrr l th nam tlmo IlKht rd cool to w-r. Thi kooJ looking m!'l I nult of natural llnrn and tha Sp turtinl ta.k rTr with ia(icrratr-d buttonhnlo mollfa are a arat help U the amartnens of tne model. Tearl tuttons trim this coat Tery effectively and harmonise with the white hat. arloves and buttoned boote of white burk. Thin white batlxtp of the flneet qual Itv ts dropped over pale blue aurah alik In thla dainty little Saturday jilKht "hop" ftown for Summer wear. The bodice la almot entirely of ahadow lac and la clrlmh la decolletace, and also In the ghortneaa of the walat. A flat bow of allver ribbon holds the lace drapery at the back and the allp pera are silver with dlRmond orna ments. At the front the lace bertha Is cauKht under a cluster of white arti ficial violets. Lonar white allk nloves embroidered In white accompany this (town but may be removed during the dance. VACATION FASHIONS FOR THIS YEAR ARE OF UNUSUALLY WIDE VARIETY All Styles Verf e oa the Irresistible and Summer Girl Will Find Process of Elimination About the Only Way to Decide Eer Selection of Outing- Raiment. VACATION raiment, this year, will be selected n"t so much by dell nlte choice as by a painstaking process of elimination. There are such 'hosts of fasclnatlne; th'ns-s ready for feminine delectation and each has its tuiioit IrreslstlMe appeal. Hut only a few fortunate ones mar buy everythlnc that fancy dictates and wear It or not as they p!ese. and so the averaae wo man. lti tte needs of her vacation held rtsiaiy In mind. niut pas by all tst Is nut ao:ut'ly esentlal. The canny woman bulMe her vacation outfit around the solid foundation of a good-lovklna. warm coat that will cover ter frain top to toe. This coat should be of excellent material so that It will not easily loee its smart lines and will be llKtit enouch to carry, while warm enouai to afford real protection when protection la reeded. It will be useful for Summer motorlnic: for occasional steamer wear: for motor boat and yachtlnc use. and for travellnc In the mountains. Toward Autumn when tha eventnes are lomcer and cooler It will be appreciated on a mountain hotel ve randa. With this coat In hand, one may corslder the pros ad cons of ths scores of frocks, fabrics and colors spread out In such bewtlderlna: confusion In the, shops. fierce Salt X reded. Whatever the requirements of the vacation In the way of outine toa-s. one dainty lingerie frock Is sure to be needed for afternoon and evenlnc wear, and there should also be a linen or eerite tailored costume with appro priate accessories for drlvins;. country club r and the l:ke. As warmer weather draws near, many two-piece suits of this type are belne made of mohair or the lustrous, silky permo fabric woven with mohair and worsted threads These suits are particularly ishl and cool and are e.-eelinnly dainty and Summery In white and pale cream. Tnry are built on youtMul. ray lines, with little coats slashed and belted and trimmed with dosena of white pearl button: and have stralsht or tunic skirts short enousrh to reveal quite frankly smsrt buttoned boots of white buckskin, or the neat buttoned oxfords which sre psrtlcularly smart this seaan. The all-white costume, however. Is not as correct this seaaoa as the white costfime with hat and par asol In color, and most of these white vacation suits are accompanied by hats trimmed with bis bows of chsna-eable taffeta, or plain taffeta; and the para aol matches the hat. l ewthfrnlaeaa la Keysets. Touthfalneas Is the keynote of all vacatton raiment: and whether one la 14 and alm. or old enough to ko In for athletics to keep down embonpoint, one weara sMrllsh. shrt-sklrted outlnc skirls with middy blouses and festive blaser coats or belted Xorfolks. The latter atyle Is sweepira the held of wo man's erstwhile fAlt.'.ful tfummer com panion the knitted sweater and rvery feminine betns; whose waist measure wi.l permit it, la orderlnar a trlsr belted Norfolk coat for this Sum mer. The sweater, however. Is hard to drive from the neld and the new models are so smart and fit so trimly and becomingly that after the Norfolk fever has subsided a little the sweater, one Is certain, will come Into Its own airsln. H lamer coats are really only for young- sjlrla. They took very attractive, with their iray. vivid coloring, against the a-reen Summer background, but the woman past Rlrlhood will do well to beware of a scarlet or trrasa-green serce blazer: and all! avoid aa the plasrue one of the striped affairs which cruelly betrsy every curve of a pro nounced figure. Flaaael Preaaea for Calf. flannel dresses tor tennis. Kolf an1 canoeing- are the fad this year, and there are white flannel outing; suits with belted Norfolk coata and abort skirts which are fetching- Indeed. Un der the belted coat may be worn a middy tennis blouse or a trim silk shirt with an adlustable soft collsr: and the skirt provided with Invisible pleata at the sldea to make It wide enoug-h for active exercise will ! short enoosrh to Stir comfortably with heelless ten nis or yachting- shoes. When buttoned white boots are worn the skirt falls Just over the boot-tops. White liner, crash frocks for morn ing wear are simply made with straight skirts buttoning up the front, and have belts of leather and elaborate collars and cults, of lingerie material by way of trimming. Ilmlty frocks with pin stripes of color on white are fash ioned In the same dainty way for morning wear: but the afternoon frocks are more elaborate and are built of sheer voiles, crepes and batiste honey combed with effective filet, cluny and crocheted lacea. The woman who can fashion her own lingerie frocks finds beautiful embroidered stuffs ready to her hand and four yards of the richly embroidered voile or crepe with a few yards of wide lace will make the pret tiest kind of a frock. t Lew Prleee Are Fowad. These costumes may be picked up In the ahops at surprisingly low prices, until one sees that the voile Is of a coarse, albeit sheer, weave which will thicken up sadly at the first tubbing, and that the machine atltchlng Is heavy and unsightly. It Is much better to put 120 or IZi Into such a frock, for styles In these costumes do not change radi cally for eeveral seaaona and the care fully laundered lingerie frock ehould endure through three Fummera, at least. Bathlns; suits do not differ greatly from laat season's models, except that striped taffeta la now more fashionable than aatln. .Skirts In tunic and slashed effects are aeen and there are suits with the puffed and corded trimming so fsshlonabas on taffeta frocks, but the sensible vacation maid sticks to a simply made bathing suit of black or dark blue whose smartness depends on beautiful material and faultlesa lines rather than on conspicuous color and elaborate trimming. This year old Father Neptune will be surprised with brilliant green silk bathing caps In stead of scarlet and blue and plaid ef fects If I'alm Beach prophesies are fulfilled. THE WELL DRESSED MAN BY BEAl'NASIL LIGHTER stuffs, even molialr. are u."ed for the Tuxedo ault to make It conform more fitly to season and climate. A new dinner ault for Sum mer wear omits the walatcoat and con sists only of Jacket and trousers. To hide the line of demarcation between trousers and shirt a narrow sssh of soft surah silk is worn after tho manner of a belt. - Of course, this fashion may be put only to avowedly hot-weather use and even then It Is confined to small and Intimate gatherings at which a familiar and free-and-easy spirit Is rife. There have been repeated attempts to Intro duce white silk and sllk-and-cotton dining suits at Aiken and Palm Beach and. while undeniably picturesque) and appropriate, they are perhapa too con spicuous. As fashion "evolutes. a Tuxedo suit distinctively summery win undoubtedly be thought and wrought out. Cray TsiHss Agalat While the black Tuxedo Is In no sense unfashionable, some oung men still prefer very dark-gray suits, and the In troduction of Hotel and becoming fao rlc this season has siven OxIarJ ray a fillip toward wider vogue. The new suits are lighter weight, softer In finish and Intended to drape more gracefully and cling more closely to the figure. There are whispers of a revival of the ihawl collar, but It seems unlikely that the trimmer peaked lapel will e caste. It is never pressed down flat, but forms a natural, tapering roll. With the dark gray Tuxedo suit ona wears a black-and-white waistcoat and a tie to match. Fer the Sunday Saunter. For the Sunday morning saunter the dandy of the Avenue wears a one or two-button cutaway "coat, a "self" waistcoat with white edging, and gray trousers with so-called "knlfa line" stripes. This costume, though manda tory In Its essentials, may be varied In Its details. For example, a waistcoat of snuff-brown may be substituted, or a waistcoat of the same material aa the coat, and adorned with a rlm of snowy edging, may b worn. The cut away coat Is black or dark gray. Bou tonnleres are always "smart" with for mal dress and this agreeably Kngllsh custom Is appreciably on the (tain. The boutonniere ahould neither be ao small that It hln:s of frugality aor so large that It Is too conspicuous. Light gray After a lon?r retirement, the split front collar with a V-shaped opening Is again orte of the fashionable forms. It la not so comfortable and does not launder so well as tho usual close-meeting fold collar, but it Is a departure from the conventional, and that counta mightily In the eyes of those men who spurn the commonplace In dress. Some of the newer derblm have the broad, flat brims to which young men are al waya partial. Sack: coats and trousers are still out with noticeable tightness, this extending to the aleeves. The latest murmur of tho mode is a white pique collar. While the fashion able Londoner has been wearing It sev eral seasons, only during the last year his It been noticeable to any extent on this side of the transatlantic ferry The -pique collar Is made of a fine quality of materlift. which Is even softer than the usual smooth-linen col lar. It wears well and launders per fectly, the finely-spaced ribs In the fabric lending an undeniably novel ap pearance. After-SsmdoOTB Dress-So-called "fancy fabrics" for the evening suit are distinctively on the wane this season. "Ultra-exclusive-ness" In dress has come to be the mark of the downy-lipped youngster rather than of the really well-dreesed man. One hears much about the "classy set," the "varsity clique" and other myste rious brotherhoods whose names sound well and mean nothing. There Is no aristocracy In this country save tho aristocracy of good taste. He who affects an extreme style that nobody else does msy be "exclusive." but 1: Is an excluslveness not at all desirable. Truo fashion springs from fineness of fabric, symmetry of proportion, per fection of fit. and becomlngness to the Individual. The style that Is bursting to express Itself In "the. very latest thing," regardless .of whether It Is suited to a man or no to It, Is a mock ery. Motoring Clothes. If one Is off for a short motoring trip In a runabout or Just through the park, ordinary tweeds will serve. For longtHstance Journeys In a touring car, goggles and weather-proof coats as well as heavier garments will be necessary. The, variety of motor gar ments made now Is so wide that every man can find the precise clothes suited to his needs, the character of his ma chine and the trips Intended to be made In It. It is well to remember, however, that the motorist who motors for sport's sake Is very little concerned about the fashion of his dress, aiming solely for comfort and absolute ease in guiding his machine. The tyro loves to muffle himself up like a comic opera brigand. The veteran, though, discards everything both In clothes and other ac. cessorles which conduces to render him conspicuous and Interfere with the com mand of his car. Sports of All Sorts. Nowadays "everybody" who Is any body" follows some sport. It Is golf, tennis, motoring, shooting, horseback. Ashing, lacrosse, boating, polo, cricket, baseball, handball, and v.-hat not.- The wide vogue of these sports makes com fort the supreme consideration in dress. The vigorous outdoor life that Young America leads has developed a new tvpe of man." with muscles seasoned, sinews oughened and ahouldera broad ened. He would feel ss out of place In tight, binding clothes as would a FIJI Islander In a ballroom. He likes to li-ave his throat free, his chest unen cumbered, his whole body loosely clad and at ease. Fashion falls In with the free-and-easy spirit of the day and banlHhe all stiffness and angularity. Copyright. 1812. by Alfred r . Bryan. WOMEN FOLLOW FRILLS WITH PAINFUL RESULTS Plated Collars to Be Worn Only With Slender Necks Square Shoulders Demand Turndown Styles Irish, and Cluny Lace Now Out of Favor. Menus for One Week 1 ; 4)"' . . 2233 i it jr. 13 Jt f -a. . W -i -?,..,- III Ajl1 ' , ... sw i missntswm J. . 11,1)-- , tn . mL-.-H 'CitQiijs WRINKLES GO QUICK Beauty Doctors and the Medical Profession Stand Aghast In Amaseraent, Marveling at this Wondrous New Method of Removing Wrinkles. Which Hs for Ages Baffled the Leading , Experts of the Earth. WRINKLE BOOK FREE This book Is only for persons who wish to remove their wrinkles. Not sent to children or curiosity seekers. Tuesday. Cream of :aracus soup Breaded veal strlos Potato roll Green yess Lettuce and strawberry salad Xliane-mange Coffee Wednesday. Clsm broth with cream Beef In casserole with Spring vegetable Pota'to crust Lettuce and pimento salad. Rhubarb rnouM with custard Coffee . Thursday Brown soup ' Meat loaf Browned potatoes Spinach a Vegetable eglaej Straw berry shurtcaks Coffee " Friday. ' Corn soup Broiled salmon Ma.lre d'hote! butter Potato rosettes Asparagus salad Woe cream with apricot puree Coffee Saturday. Vegetable broth Brollsd steak Scalloped potatoes Broiled tomatoes Lettuce salad Nut dressing Rhubarb tarts Coffee 8unday. Tomato bouillon Chicken en casserole New potatoes Asparagus Pineapple salad Chocolate souffle Coffee Monday, e Olblet soup Nut loaf Mashed potato border Hnllanrtatse saucs Jellied vegetable salad Custard pie Coffee Good, Old Molasses Candy. Cincinnati Tribune. Louisiana is rightly the home of mo lasses candy, for it was right here (where sugar was first raised In the United States, and molasses, sweet and health-giving, was first given to tha world) that molasses candy, or "candle tire." aa the Creoles call It. had Its birth. "Candle tire" parties, or mo lasses candy pullings, were among the pleasurable Incidents of life among the early belles and beaux. Take one quart of molasses, one tablespoonful butter, one pound granulated sugar, two table spoonfuls vinegar, one-half teaspoonful soda and the Juice of one lemon. Boll the molasses and sugar until It be comes thick when dropped Into water. Add the vinegar, lemon and butter, boll until It hardens when dropped Into water, stir In a small half-teaspoon-ful bicarbonate of soda, and pour Into buttered tins, and aa aoon as it begins to cool, sufficiently, pull until white. Moisten the hands while- pulling, with ice water or butter. The sticks may be single, twisted, braided or flat tened, according to taste. Russian Punch Into three parts of good old rum mix one part of strained lemon Juice in which the bruised peel has soaked for awhile. On this pour nine parts of freshly-made tea, cooled, and sweeten to taste. Put In the Ice cream freeier to the degree liked. COMPLETE STOCK OF ' ,3 SILK GLOVES ALWAYS TO BE MAD AT Jk We Carry Oalr the Kayser Make la Mlk tiloves. SCS MORRIOXTREEI, Op p. Poetofflee. EVERV woman who can wear frills this season is wearing frills, and some who ought never affect frilly effects are foolish nough to follow the fashion with rather painful results. Only the slender neck, rising gracefully from sloping shouldersooks well In a frill, and even then the plaited fabric should be basted down carefully half an Inch from the Inner edge to (nsure per fectly flat shoulder lines. Square shouldered women and women with chunky necks will wisely avoid the try ing frill and stick to the turned-down collar. Such collars are made of lingerie ma terial this season, not of lace, and In consequence wonderful bargains In Irish and cluny lace collars are to be picked tip by the canny woman who knows that these old favorites, tem porarily deposed by too much cheap Imitation, will surely return to favor. The .lace collar, moreover, could be laundered In one's room and pinned out on the bed to dry, whereas the dainty affair of embroidered batiste and lace may be freshened only with the aid of clear starch and a flat Iron. But the lingerie styles have the day now, and Summer vacationers must manage, somehow, with electric fiat Irons, which may be attached to the hotel chandelier, or by the friendly aid of small portable alcohol stoves. No Summer collar that considers Itself In the mode owns to ordinary square, sailor lines, and the woman who Is fastidious about the tiny details of dress observes that no. really smart collar comes together at the front now. There must be several tnchea between the points, and In the space is set a smart little bow of velvert or taffeta, the bow extending across the throat, giving a square effect to the neck open ing. When there Is a narrow vest be low the bow. or when the frock but tons down the front, this arrangement of the collar Is exceedingly effective. The only collars that open In pointed effect at "the front are the tall Riche lieu models, which give an effect of stateliness and dignity to the whole costume. The back of the Richelieu touches the base of the hair, and at the front the opening la quite low sev eral Inches below the throat line. Tnese collars are picturesque and novel, but It Is not probable that 'they will be widely worn or replace In popularity the cool, comfortable turnover collars of batiste and handkerchief linen. Sev eral styles of these collars are pictured and the Irregularity of line now fash ionable is evident In each. The collar at the top of the picture Is of handkerchief linen, buttonholed around the edge in color and having embroidered motifs In Oriental patterns, done In white and color. This collar is wide at the sides and narrow from back to front. It does not come togeesier at the front and Is edged with a nar row frill of cluny lace. The collar in the center Is of white embroidered linen with appllqued motifs of Dutch blue mousseline embroidered with black. At the edge Is a plaited net ruffle. The collar opens widely at the front ond has square front edges. The lower col lar Is of white batiste, embroidered and scalloped with wjiite. It is Intended for wear with Summer morning frocks of linen or dimftytand has tabs under neath which turn back and pin In place under the edge of the bodice. TJie sides of the collar are very wide and reach to the edge of the shoulder, but the measurement. at front and back Is nar row, and the collar does not come to gether at the front, but is worn with a bow of velvet ribbon. All of these col lars have cuffs to match, for the cuffs are as much a feature as the collar with this Summer's frock. The fichu of filet lace is intended for wear with Summer frocks and is a graceful model which droops over the shoulder and arm and is finished with washable cotton fringe. All the new fichus are cut so that theyllt smoothly over the shoulders and back and lie very flat when pinned In place at the waistline, a1 bow of black velvet rib bon at front and back gives a smart touch to the fichu, or the folds may be held at the front under a big: rose made of satin. Polishing Furniture. Exchange. The prudent housekeeper will be as wary of doctoring her furniture with polish that Is' recommended to "cover all defects" as she would be of a patent medicine which is guaranteed to cure every disease. The highly-polished sur, faces of furniture have often been ruined by a too free use of a so-called polish which, not having been rubbed dry, has hardened and collects all of the dust beforedrylng, and has caused a dull film to appear over the polished sur-, faces. A -simple and effective polish for- cleaning furniture and removing scratches is made of one-third linseed oil and two-thirds benzine. It should be applied with a paint brush which has very soft bristles and rubbed dry with an old soft piece of muslin or No hfV- "SjjSf j risers ; t ' 1 - ' f j No Boilers , Treatment si - ??.. -Ci j Never . : -v . j fc.r -..AJfVvr'tfcy'.'- j Before S igflMt J Offered b, THE riilXCESSS TOKIO New Method of Rcmovinc Wrinkles. Send Qulckl.r for This Great Wrinkle Boob and Mart at Once to I&emuve Your Wrinkles. Did you ever see a Japanese woman with a clouded complexion? Did you ever e one with wrinkles, irrespective of ape? Then learn how they achieve and maintain these Unea of splendid feminine beauty. For the flrsi time in America, the Princess Toklo methods are being made known, and they are a revelation. Never before have Christian women been able to solve the secrets of these Oriental beauties, whose faces and forms have been the marvel through the ages. But at last the treasure trove has been unlocked, and there Is act before every American lady who writes immediately, the full knowledge of these methods. The Princess Toklo Wrinkle Book Is message full of , sisterly feeling and sym pathy for the American ladies. It tells, without hesitation, all about the Princess Toklo new method of removing wrinkles without harmful creams, pastes, lotions, or plasters, pr mechanical appliances. Reports from all over America prove con clusively the wondrous excellence of this remarkable new treatment and It Is simply astonishing the thousands of letters being received from grateful women. A letter to dav from Mrs. H. E. Campbell states she used this treatment for two weeks and her wrinkles are all gone, and she further states that her face is as smooth as it was when she was a girl and that she is so happy that she cannot say too much In praise of this remarkable new treatment. Ada Colvllle of Texas states that she used the treatment eight days and her face is entirely free of wrinkles and she is so de lighted that she has found something that will keep her young longer. A letter Just received at this office from Mrs. A. t. Morran, away off in Canada, states that she was delighted with this new combination wrinkle -treatment. That It removed all her wrinkles and leaves the face smooth as an Infant's and makes tha skin fresh and young looking. Mrs. K. W- .Tones In her letter states: "The Princess Toklo Wrinkle Treatment la excellent." She further states that it not only removed her wrinkles, but made her face as soft and smooth as velvet, and that she never before found a remedy which would make her young-looking, and that she tried Chicago and New York treat ments without success. From the glowing letters of praise pour ing in. it Is evident that this remarkable remedy has created a veritable Bensatton and furore In the fashionable homes, and prominent societv women and actresses adopt this method of remaining young looking, banishing all signs of age. Not Sent to Ladies Over 70. The Princess Toklo Book Is free to every lady who writes, except those over seventy years of age. To these the Princess Toklo methods extend no hope for they have neglected themselves for such a long period. It is impossible -to benefit through this knowledge after 70 years of age. If you are a matron, would you ilke to look like a girl again? If you are fifty years of age. would you wish to look like a splendid young woman of twenty-five? If you are forty would you like to look like a girl just out of her teens? Then to you this book will bo of Inestimable value. Keep that in mind. There is no charge for the Princess Toklo Wrinkle Book. It Is a rare message for ladies wishing to learn of the new way to remove wrinkles and regain a youthful face. SEND NO MONEY. Under no circumstances will money be accepted for the Princess Tokio Book about wrinkles. It is yours absolutely free. It will be given to vou with a willing hand, by one who believes that there has dawned the most splendid day for American women of all ages up to seventy. It is a message of the most hearty good cheer, and so unlike anvthlng American, it is a treat In its di rect instructions. All you need to do is to send and ask for a FREE copy, addressing the Princess Tokio B. C, suite 2442, Cen tral Bank Building, Denver, Colo. Tou may rest assured that this book will be sent in a plain wrapper. It tells how to remove every wrinkle by entirely new treatment in only eight days. N. B. Arrangements have been made whereby all our readers may receive all that Is offered free, and yon must enclose a stamp to prove you are really in need of a quick wrinkle remover. Boft flannel. For polishlngr, dampen a cloth with the mixture, fold It into a pad, sprinkle a few drops of alcohol over the surface of the pad and rub the furniture firmly and quickly. Rub only a small part at a time and be sure to rub until the surface is quite dry. it Thersafest glove 1 s ito buy t 'Kayser" the kind that "don't wear out" at the finger, ends and sold to you with A Guarantee that Guarantees "a. new pair free" if the "tips" wear out before the gloves. "Kayser" Gloves cost no more than the "ordinary kind" and . . . - are worth double. Don't accent the "just as good" kind. There's a way to tell the genuine "look in the hem" for the name "Kayser" it is there for your protection.- You take no risk. "Kayser," the safest glove to buy. - Short Silk Gloves 60o.t 76c, $1.00, $1.25, $1.50 Long Silk Gloves 75e.,$1.00,$1.25,$1.50, SZ.OO Julius Kayser & Co.,IIa.kers New York t JA