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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 7, 1912)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, APRIL 7, 1912. GREEN TAFFETA SMOCK, SHOT WITH CREAM, IS ESPECIALLY EFFECTIVE Use of Pintncked Batiste as Ground Material Considered Interesting Style Feature Fetchinf Summer Afternoon Costume Includes White Buttoned Boots and White Gloves. ... ,!; ", fT?"" '"':. - r - j - a'. THE combination of tffot with lln Wrl4 materials at th Spring oiw. Intra has been very marked. Most of the lingerie frocks have been accompanied by taffeta coats, wraps or tunics and this little smock, or che in!." of green, taffeta shot with cream la part of a Marcjalne Lacrolx frock of cream voll. A black velvet hem and rows of black buttons make the AMERICAN GIRL'S SLANG PHRASES GRATE ON ENGLISH SISTER'S NERVES Tendency Toward Use of Words Not Used in Polite Society Rapidly Growing in United States Many Topics Taboo in Smart Drawing-Rooms What W ell-Bred Women Should Know. II' all of our cor recorded In somi how much ashar conversations could be i some mechanical manner. imed we should be to liear them repeated word for word. The nasal twang would doubtless often be evident, the voice too high pitched, the banal thought, the vulpar slang with which wo color so many of our utterances. , These are the faults of the average American girl, so let hefjook to their correction. - Ore of the most Important essentials of conversation is a well-modulated voice, which always seems an evidence of breeding. All Americans feel the charm 8f the musical voices of their English sisters, who utter the simplest words with a bell-like sweetness, while we split the ear with piercing discords. Yet It la a simple enough matter to sifak in a moderately low voice. If one only practices the trick, whfle, a few lessons with a good teacher would give t'.ie proper accent for our gracious Kngllsh woros. It Is not necessary to copy the English met nod of speech ex actly, but It Is an excellent guide for our omn, the most correct utterance of our language extant, and the Eng lish lady, in the true sense, has no tolerance for the slang we think so clever, even "smart " Apropos of American slang, here are two samples of It: Some Birl's. walking down a fashion able New York street, were speaking f churches, when one said suddenly: -Vou don't mean to say you haven't seen St. Pafs! Two other maids were asked to the V aldorf to tea. and when some little cakes were put on the table one cried with unction: "Them's the gumdrops for muh!" These sillinesses ere not exceptions, f r I have since heard other girls speak of beautiful St. Tatrlck'a Cathedral as -St. 'ai's." heard them call themselves -muh" and speak even of boy friends as -gumdrops. Uirls in the best so ciety have the slang bablt and they think it smart. Just as they think the turkey-trot and the grlxxly bear those vu'.carest of dances smart. They are very much mistaken in thvlr point of view and if they Indulge la it for a long time they will Bud themselves limited In decent and grace ful words. Lake everything else, the vocabulary grows with oraetlce. and constantly making a vcijrar choice enils by having only a capacity for vul var speech. Reading the English classics and listening to the voicea of our best actresses are two easy ways of acquiring good English. With any little burst of talk, no matter where it is. choose only the words needed to ex press your meaning and pick out the simple ones rather than the hlgh sountllng, for almple English Is classic English. ...... As to the subjects of one s talk, they rtnnot be discussed In cut and dried fashion. The moment introduces the matter for discussion and the enter tainment dejes not depend upon a well aiorcd.mlnd. a o"lck wit or wide cul ture. The iualities of the heart flavor he "chat, that subtle essence called fete': - I ' - v" , voile very smart, and the shimmering; green silk smock dropped over it Is especially effectives With this costume am worn white buckvkin boots with buttoaed tops and high Spanish heels. The use of plntucked batiste as a ground material Is a new and Interesting- style feature. This frock, mada of plntucked batiste and Imitation cluny Insertions, while not at all expensive In type Is charmingly pretty and sum sympathy, and the more simple words are the more qiilckly will the talkers get in rapport with each other and with their subject. The girl who Is doing the talking must feel an Interest in her subject tt she wishes to inspire enthusiasm In her listener. Her face must show some animation, her man ner some vivacity, and if she really wishes to impress her hearer she must have some fluency of expression. These qualities and a gush of superlatives fine, glorious, superb, horrible, terri ble are as far apart as the poles. Adaptability to the conversation of others Is largely a matter of the wish to please, but should the subject in volve some unknown points It Is far better to give the speaker to under stand that It is beyond your ken than to cover up Ignorance with a smiling silence or an occasional yes or no. The love of one's own talk Is inherent in the human race and there are people who take the floor whenever they get the chance, whether they have any thing to ay or not. These are the nuisances of polite society, the gad flies and gnats, and It cannot help but follow that they are not welcome In the choicest gatherings. Everybody wants a chance and the true art of conversation is to encourage others to express their opinions on pleasant top ics, lime, rtecamler had this gift to a high decree, and. although history does not record a single smart saying of hers, she Is forever considered the very queen of drawing-room conver sation. Dress, domestics, disease and reli gion are some of the topics tabooed in smart drawing-rooms and the constant use of foreign phrases In a company which does not understand the lan guage is regarded as marked Impolite ness. Dogmatism, giving an opinion as if you owned the verdict. Is a disagreea ble element, vagueness of expression may end by giving the notion that there is no Idea behind it. and "riding one's hobby" harping for ever on a favorite subject Is a pretty certain way of Insuring a cold welcome. The bore, the person who speaks only of herself or himself, the scandal monger, the tease and the cuttingly clever are all abomination to well-bred persons. Politeness demands that one should speak more of things than of persons, anecdotes are out of place except In BLUE AND CHAMPAGNE MODISH SPRING COLORS Handsome Buckles of Celluloid and Dainty Buttoned Boots Are Among the Latest Conceits of My Lady of Fashion. ONE cannot but be impressed with the preponderance of champagne and blue in the Spring fashions. Two-thirds of the lingerie costumes exhibited at the openings have been cream, or rather champagne. In tone, and at least half of these frocks were accompanied by blue sashes, wraps, bats or sunshades. The blue used with .- iff -. -:. r , . i " i mery In suggestion. In the bodice the plntucklns; Is used obliquely- and la much broken up by the arrangement of the Insertion In bands and motifs. The contrasting arrangements of pln- tucklnjr In the lower flounce are also Interesting. White buttoned .boots. white embroidered silk gloves and hat all In Limoges blue tones com plete a fetching Summer afternoon cos tume. the most intimate circles and where the company is confined to a little cir cle In a single room conversation should be general. Long and earnest chata with one's neighbor at a dinner party or luncheon give an impression of Ignorance in social matters, for here the talk must flow from person to person for the hostess to feel that all of her guests are having a good time. Preaching is out of place. One's friends and acquaintances are not children for us to train, not sinners for us to save In the brief moment of social inter change. Maybe we are less good than they, far less wise. Interesting conversation is rare, but it can be cultivated. A well-bred woman is supposed to know something of art, the titles of the new books and the names of their authors, to keep in touch with the more Important happenings of the day and to have the gentler side of social affairs at her finger points. A-course of solid reading Is an excellent tonic for wits and the study of any foreign lan guage Improves the power of expres sion. One cannot be a fool and a shin ing social light at the same time. Ig norance reveals itself, if not In the speech, in the dull eye, the vacant look, the disturbed or combative manner. When we cannot hide ignorance we are furious or covered with confusion. A little acquaintance with the diction ary would help my a badly-educated girl to be more graceful in her conver sation and neater In her letter writ ing. But a little knowledge is a danger ous thing. Be sure you don't venture on new words or subjects unless you know their meaning. Mrs. Malaprop has left us many daughters they are the girls who get In the wrong word every time they try to be brilliant. But there are too many pitfalls to mention them all, and, despite the book of etiquette the bosom's honey dews have more to do with the subject than words and learning. Love the world you live in and you are pretty apt to "speak it fair." As a last word, pray let me quote the old saw: Silence Is golden especially when you are in the presence of persons who are older and wiser than yourself. Nay, there is another word: Let thy speech be silver. PRUDENCE STAXDTSII. the fashionable champagne tint Is not the innocent baby blue that goes with white, but a deep gentian or Nattier blue which harmonizes well with the creamy tone of the lingerie stuffs. With lingerie frocks of a pronounced cream tone, the white buckskin boots are not as Kmart as the black satin boots with high heels and sparkling crystal but tons. Buckles are the craze, eveo on hats v U jr. v ' 1 I . . : , and neckties, and no buckles are more dainty than those made of Irish crochet over white taffeta. Celluloid forms in ovals, oblongs and round shapes come for the foundation of these lace buckles, and sizes vary from tiny af fairs for the center of velvet neckbows and slipper ornaments up to the huge shapes for sashes and hats. Reversible satin coats are Ideal for Summer motor use over the sort of frocks one wears to the country club or for veranda dining at some smart just-out-of-town restaurant. The lines of these coats are graceful and slender and the color of the reverse side shows In the turned-back cufs, long eccen trically cut revers and perhaps in a hood at the back. Such a coat, of black double-faced sstin. with a reverse of deep American Beauty shade, was seen in the corridor of the Waldorf last week. Thrown back, it revealed a stun ning gown of black satin and Jetted net. There was a little pointed train of the Fat In which, lifted, showed but toned boots of black satin with flesh- colored silk stockings. Feather Boas la Favor. Feather boas are again In great favor In Paris, and tw-o yards Is the modish length, a very short boa tied around the neck with ribbons not being con sidered chic. The new boas are very rich and full, and prices start at each. The woman who has been in de spalr because her handsome willow plumes are completely out of style may now take heart of grace and have them n.ade Into a boa for wear -with Sum mer frock. Sleeveless gulmpes of lace are sold at the neckwear counters for furbish ing ud simple costumes. In the thinner laces, like llerre and mallnes. these late gulmpes are dainty over lingerie and lace blouses, hut some of the heavier laces In Venlse and macrlme patterns look best asainst dark fabric background. A bridge frock of rasp berry pink pernio fabric was made to look like a very elegant creation oy the addition of one of these sleeveless gulmpes of cream carlme lace belted at the waist under a raspberry velvet girdle, the peplum at the back forming a long coattall on which were two rows of raspberry velvet buttons. Skirts are undoubtedly wider, but the expected width has come In an unex pected place. The top of the skirt is built out in .a pannier, while the lower part Is as narrow and straight as ever. Several pannier skirts have been In evidence at the Spring openings, and ic each case the narrow petticoat be neath the draped portion was short enough to reveal the daintily shod foot. Boots seem to be the thing this Spring, and even the sheerest lingerie costumes are accompanied by trimly flttins buttoned boots of calf, satin or the popular white buckskin. It is the fashion to go gloveless. no tucking of glove-hands Into glove wrists while one dines or dances. But nobody starts out gloveless, be it noted: the dainty evening frock Is In variably accompanied by irreproach able gloves drawn primly up over the bare arm. Afterward the gloves are drawn off and carried in the hand. With the Spring out-of-door costume, long gloves of silk are fashionable, and some of these gloves are very daintily embroidered on the wrist In self color or delicately contrasting shades. Recipes for Sprinff Dishes. Mint Omelet Crack four fresh eggs in a bowl, add two tablespoonfuls of fresh, cream, salt and pepper to taste, and two teaspoonfuls of chopped mint leaves; beat with a fork for two min utes. Pour the eggs into a hot but tered pan. stirring when first put In; let them coolc then like any omelet, and fold and serve on a hot dish, covering the top with melted butter. Strawberry Tarts Get six little pastry shells from the baker, or make them from a fine pastry dough. Wash a basket of fresh, fully ripe strawberries, pick on stems and drain them on a nap kin; then put them la a-bowl, sprink ling them with fine sugar and half a glass of rum. Turn the fruit in this dressing, then place as many straw berries in each crust as It will. hold. Divide the Juice in the bowl evenly over the tarts and place them in a hot oven to cook 10 minutes. Remove, let them get cold, and put a blob of whipped creaia at top of each tart. Fried Tomatoes. Spanish Style Wash and wipe six even-sized, sound ripe tomatoes: cut them In halves cross wise, and season each half with salt, pepper and a little sugar. Then mince two sprigs of parsley, two leeks and a quarter of a clove of garlic. Sprinkle the herbs evenly over the tomatoes and then lightly roll them In flour. Fry the tomatoes In butter until a light brown each side, and then place each half on a round piece of toast; dot the tops with a bit of butter and then set the dish in a brisk oven for 10 minutes. Put the toast pieces side by side on a hot plat ter, decorate with sprigs of parsley and serve hot. i Vogue of Plush. Exchange. The vogue of the velvet hat has in somo measure prepared the world of fashion for the introduction of the plush headgear, which is becoming to the youthful faces because it throws the clear complexion into relief, while it is equally generous to the older woman, softening older and more an gular' features. SPF.CIAL KOOTWKAR STYI-ES FOR VPliTHFLI. FEET ARE UAIXTV. Girl's Boots Correct aa Mother's. The girl's boots of today are as dainty and correct as her mother's: but high heels are not considered- In good taste for the girl not yet out, and the lines of the whole boot, or slipper, as the case may be, are more youth ful and not as dashing as foot wear for women. White buck skin boots for wear with tail ored suits and white frocks have high tops buttoned with flat but tons set close together, and smart black boots of patent leather or calf have cloth tops. Kven dancing sllppera for girls have moderate heels. The Co lonial slippers of white buckskin illustrated hore are smart, grace ful and girlish in type. - it i 'v- x 1 WRONG KIND OF HANDBAG SPOILS BEST EFFECT OF CHARMING SUIT Various Models and Materials Shown Which Are Recognized by Well-Dressed - Women as Being Fashionable. Clever Automobile Handbags Are Made of eLather, With Many Inside Pockets. HE woman who has the art oi dressing down to a fine point. never makes the mistake of spoll- hr a charming costume with . the wrong sort of handbag. She is as fas tidious in her choice oi Dags ana reu .nia mm ' n hr Kelnctinn of hats: and Is careful to have enough handbags to go round among ner costumes. Irish lace reticules are the season's fa A and verv dalntv are these bags. and very appropriate for use with Sum mery costumes. The Irish lace bag is not necessarily pure white, for the lace i.-f1 In various colors, the lining of course matching the shade of the hap. Two modish Irish lace reticules are Illustrated, one In the square en velope style and the other also square, but with the pointed lower edge wnicn has been popular in Paris this season. The square bag on the left Is of Irish lace, dyed a very pale gray, ball fringe md card nandle being also in the deli cate gray color, and the lining being gray satin. This gray bag is intended for use with a gray linen tailored suit or an afternoon rrock or gray or Diue taffeta. The bag on the right Is also, or irisn ace, dyed a light creamy fawn color ind having a lining of fawn-colored .in. 1 1 ... v. A w n ma i... hiitra urn rn - nil n.. Diiii u . . " - a paclous in size, the top of the square envelope model measuring nine Inches across. Smaller Hags or Slit. Tha amaiiAr ba.irs of brocade and braided Ottoman silk are Intended for use with dressy afternoon costumes. One of these bags is oblong in shape and is made of white and violet velvet brocade with a cordeliere handle of pale rph. dinl(inn..finnpi1 reticule is Of cream Ottoman silk with a braiding of silver in a lace-iiKe design anu of green and silver. Macrlme lace over silk makes a charming bag of this sort, and there are very smart models of tapestry trimmed with fringe and hav ing Jeweled, metal frames My :&dy'a reticule is a very important part of her costume nowadays, and she Is not happy long witho.it the supply of trinkets and small belongings which, not having any pockets, she carries In her fancy bag. It Is really wonderful the number of things a woman can carry In one of these big reticules, without any visible effect on the shape of the bag. A handsome reticule of tan Ottoman silk covered with cream Venlse lace and having a gold frame set with topazes was found In the dressing-room of a large hotel the other day. Scores of Articles Found. For the purpose of identification of the owner the contents of the bag was tumbled out on a table, and these neces sities (?) were revealed: One handker chief, one folded veil, two theater tick ets, a coin purse fllle- with small change, a roll of greenbacks amounting to $50, a silver cardcase.. a Jewel studded cigarette case, a smelling bot tle, a memorandum book and pencil, vanity powder and rouge boxes, eye brow pencil ana up-rouge ycm-ii, ju.-5.-age-stamp book, button-hook, small sewing kit, four letters and ten samples of dressgoods. ' The shopping and automobile hand bags of leather are arranged for the orderly stowing away of all these and more belongings In shipshape manner. Inner pockets and cases will accommo date any number of belongings, and there is even a special handbag for the traveler with an envelope attachment at one side which contains sewing im plements, all neatly and compactly stowed in leather pockets. Gold Mesh Parses Popular. The gold mesh purses become more luxurious every season. These bags never seem to lose their vogue, though the silver mesh bag is not.now as fash ionable as it was a season ago. The new gold mesh bags have Jewel-studded frames and sometimes the mesh shows It's Easy to Peel Off All Your Freckles (From American Home.) The contrast between the freckles and the clear skin usually Is so great that no Dieacn can oe moro tuau tlally successful in. obliterating the disfigurements. Ordinary mercolized wax Is far better: it literally peels off the freckles. Get an ounce of it at the nearest drug store . and tonight spread on enough to completely cover your face; remove in the morning with warm water. Repeat daily until every freckle has disappeared. Rough, blotchy, pimpled skin, also common at this season, may be en tirely gotten rid of by this same method., without discomfort or incon venience. The effort Is decidedly worth while, the new complexion obtained being so clear, smooth and youthful. If bothered with wrinkles, after wash ing off the mercolized wax bathe the face in a lotion made by dissolving an ounce of powdered saxolite In a halt pint of witch hazel. Adv. ; HE woman who has the art oi , TBirmwmmmmmmmmfm!mmBfmm'Fm a . I I - 7 " ' s - a- v -iiji weaving of gold with platinum chevron striped effect. Such bags, when found in exclusive jeweler's shape, are often priced as high as $600 or 700. Woe be to' the woman who carelessly leaves such a belonging on a restaur ant table or, as women sometimes will do allows it to slide off her lap to the floor to be picked up later by a waiter" who may or may not turn it in for the sake of a possible reward. There has been a fancy this Spring for the old-fashioned ring purse, in use 30 or 40 years ago. The new ring purses are exaggerated in size and the sliding rings are as large as bracelets. These bags, trimmed with fringe and made of bright-colored taffeta, add a very charming touch of color to the Summer costume. Dainties for Receptions Angel Cake Eleven eggs, whites only; one and a half cups of sugar, sifted; one cup of flour, sifted four times; one teaspooaful of vanilla; one teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Beat the egg whites until stiff enough to stand alone, gradually adding the sugar. Then add the vanilla and the flour,- into which the cream of tartar has been thoroughly mixed. The bak ing tin does not need to be greased. Bake 40 minutes in a moderate oven. There is a regular tin, with a .funnel up the center, for baking angel cake, this with three little standards at the top, on which the cake pan is turned upside down on . coming out of the oven. If such a pan is not available, the cake can be baked in the usual round tin. - English Walnut Cake One cup of sugar: half a cup of butter; half a cup Health and v- ---w- '-V - ,A A - - i - i-;.t:lA tepillS .BY MRS. MAE MARTl'S. Rose- To rid your skin of that shiny, greasy, sallow look and make it appear charming and vouthful, you can use nothing bet?er than a lotion made by dissolving 4 ounces spurmax in t pint witch hazel (or hot water), then adding 2 teaspoonfuls glycerine. - This lotion will clear and whiten your skin, make it .fand velvety, and give . you i . & will notPshow on the" skin" like powder aoes. and. when you wear .ve will not rub off easily. This is reany T wonderful complexion and one which every woman should use, Phoebe: If a strong light hurts your eves and make you squint, you should at once take steps to correct this weak ness Get an ounce of crystos and dls ?o?ve It In a pint of water. Put a few drops of this soothing tonic in each eye daily and you will soon find your eyes greatly strengthened, clear and spark fing S'o remedy has so far been found to equal this excellent tonic for correct ing weak. Inflamed eyes. It makes them healthy and strong and is used by many acfresses to make their eyes sparkle. M w To permanently remove those wUhV? er. then spread on hairy sur face After two or three minutes rub offf'wasli the skin and the hairs are gone This is a painless method, and after"' usinr the delatone the skin is left soft and without a blemish. of ill health take a tablespoonful of the following tonic before each meal: Dis solve in Vs P"; and 1 ounce kardene; then add hot water to mase a. i im . . cellent system-tonic and blood purifier gives splendid results in toning up the body, restoring ivo i- , 1 , .,, tlie complexion, removing pimples, liver-blotches and sallowness. After taking a few doses you will note a big Improvement in the condition of your health. It is a great energlzer- and health restorer. Mrs. T. A.: I do not think it neces sary for you to consult a physician A t': 1 At or milk; two cups ot nour; iwo es&ai half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda; one teaspoonful or cream oi tartar, one cupful of English walnuts, meas ured after cracking; one cupful of large raisins. Mix in the usual man ner and add the nuts and raisins last, the latter carefully cleansed of grit and seeded and dredged in flour. When the caki is cold cover It with a white icing, ornamenting this while still soft with walnut halves. The icing is made of one cup of fins confectioner's sugar, four tablespoon fuls of boiling water, the white of one egg, and a quarter of a teaspoonful ol cream of tartar. Boll the sugar and water together until the syrup' will "string"' from tha spoon. Have ready the beaten .white of an egg. mixed with the cream of tartar. Pour the syrup slowly on tha egg. beating until it will go on the cake without running. Flavor the Icing with lemon Juice, rosewater, orange-flower water or whatever is pre ferred. Strawberry Ice Cream One quart ol milk; one pint of cream: four eggs; two cups of sugar; two tablespoonfuls of corn flour. Mawe a custard by putting the milk on in a double boiler and bringing II to a boil, then pouring it very gradually over the yolks of the eggs and tha sugar. Add a pinch of salt. Return the custard to the boiler and add the corn flour, dissolved in a little cold milk; boll until the consistency of thin cream. Remove from the fire and add the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. When the custard is cold, Just before putting it into the freezer, add the cream. When the cream is partially frozen, open the can and add a quart ol strawberries, previously crushed with a fork and . soaked in one cup of fine eugar, Tontinue the freezing as usual. Beauty Hints 1 about your weight. You can easily re move your burdensome fat at small ex pense by dissolving 4 ounces of parnotis in 1 pints hot water and taking a tablespoonful before meals. This splen did fat-reducer is very safe to take and will not Injure your health. It will leave your skin free from wrinkles and flabblness. . No dieting is necessary. Ida P.: You can't be too careful about the shampoo you use. Soap and powders should never be used on tne scalp. To properly cleanse your hair and scalp without any danger of injury to the hair you will find nothing to equal a teaspoonful of canthrox dis solved In a cup of hot water. Youi hair will rinse easily, dry quickly with out streaking or brittleness, and tak on an added lustre and fluff iness that will last. No shampoo Is so effective In removing dandruff, scalp irritation and promoting hair-health by keeping tht scalp perfectly clean. Mrs. S. M. : Your complexion is shin? from the use of greasy cold creams. It you will mix an ounce of almozoln and 2 teaspoonfuls glycerine In hi pint cold water, and use this gre-aseless beauty cream night and morning, you will not be bothered with a muddy, greasy com plexion. It will make your skin ever so soft, smooth and beautiful. It clears and refines the skin as no other cream I have ever used will, and is a sure pre ventive against chapping, blackhead! and enlarged pores. C. W. R.: Oils, vaseline and most of the dope called "hair tonic" will never help your hair and scalp troubles. The best remedv for ridding your scalp of dandruff.. Itching and stopping your hair from coming out Is made by mix ing together 1 ounce quinzofn, pint alcohol and pint cold water. This dependable remedy will not make your hair oily or "stringy," but will make it soft and glossy. Used twice a week it keeps the scalp In a healthy condition and promotes a . vigorous growth of glossy hair. Read Mrs.-Martyn's book, "Beauty." 1 5 Adv. i