THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND. MARCH 17, 1912. HAT OF FLEXIBLE PANAMA PROVES POPULAR MILLINERY THIS SEASON t . - - - - - . - 1 - ' " ' - SMrred nd Corded Tffet Used u Trimming for Headgear of Adnlti as Well as for Children's Models, While Band of Bine Silk Is Draped Around Crown. f r'T " - .--r""-'" - : -- ' """nV , t---'- : !r'': I V' ' t flV-l -J 'fit i im:--fc.: mj V.'- j " V r": SHIRRED and corded taffeta la a fashionable trimming thla season, and la ud for irown-up hata aa well aa on the childish models. Thla liat of flexible panaina owes Ita good style to Ita amart lines tha brim roll Inic off tha faca and tho high, conical crown and to the trimming of blua taffeta, shirred over threa heavy cabla DECORATIVE EXPERT SUGGESTS HOW BEDROOMS COULD BE MADE BRIGHT New Striped Gray Papers Likely to Hake Excellent Wall Covering, While Rugs. Curtains, Furniture, Dra peries and Other rurnishings Should Be Chosen With the Intention to Make Apartments Elegant. BT Ul'RA BALDWIN DOOL1TTLE. THE bedrooma of thla house I think especially well arranged, having ao much cloaet room. Thla meana much to a family and mak.ee the wheela of life run more smoothly. The largest room has a south and west exposure and would be charming; done In gray and pale violet lavender. The celling could be of Ivory and dropped to the picture molding, which should be of antique gold. The woodwork of all the rooms Is Ivory white enamel. I would use one of the new striped gray pa pers. The curtains should be of cream colored scrim, swlss or muslin and tha overdraperles In cretonne, floral de sign. There are soma good orchid, de signs coming out now la beautiful vio let colorings. A large carpet rug In two-toned gray with a small mohair rug- or two In the aame violet tones as the draperles make the floor complete. I would use gray enamel furniture twin beds. - dressing- case or bureau, chiffonier, dressing table, writing; desk and chairs, and have cushion for the chairs of the aame cretonne aa . the hangings and It would be pretty to have panels of the cretonne set In the bedstead. !U(Htlra far rewaierpaae. Then, of course, one would use a white bedspread or a specially de signed swlss one bordered with the a me pattern aa the cretonne either la cord.. . Th corded band of blua allk la draped around th crown and whlrled around at the aide Into a rosette, the end being; tucked under the band. Such a trimming; la both almple and ef fective. Washable collars and revere with cuffs to match give a crisp, fresh look to the almple reefer coat of blue serice. These cost-jets come now In lli: id 1 r s "i j j i i g'. . . 1 I an applique or atltched-on border. Pretty colored photographa of favorite views framed In old gold give another touch of color In the room. Be sure to have the closets tinted the same color aa the bedroom walla. If desired, heavy draperies of Kgyptlan cotton or rep - allk. In fray, aame ton aa tbs very smart effects. the big revera and turned-back cuffs being slashed, notched and button-trimmed In dash ing; style. The set pictured Is of striped blue and white pique with buttons made of tho pique and plain blue linen. Two of these fancy buttons are used to fasten the coat front, also. Of course, thexe pique and linen coat-seta are adjustable and muy be removed for laundering. walls, can be used. These could have a border at top and bottom-of the cretonne. The chamber that has only the north exposure should be done In yellow. A striped yellow paper on the side walls with a cut-out small border of roses, the. celling- a shado or two lighter with the same, cut-out border of small yellow roses st In about three inches from the edger. Mere I wouia use white swlss curtain with a border of the same yellow roses stitched on and not use an overdrapery. A white enamel bed aet with a wicker chair or two with cretonne cushion of the yel low roses. Room to. Be Llahteaed. Tou will be surprised how full of sunlight this room will appear to be although cut off from all real aun shlne. but yellow warms It and is very effective. The roses have a warm tan center and the rug- should be of this same color with a two-toned border In darker shades". The other bedroom has a southeast exposure and can be done In pale blue. A small gray fig ured paper with a border In blue morn ing glories. This Is a very charming1 new paper for bedrooms and a shadow tapestry cretonne or printed linen has the same motif, making a fine scheme. I would use white swlss curtains with draperies of pale blue silk, un llned. hemmed and, edged with a nar row blue silk frlnace. The chairs and shirtwaist box that is used for a win dow seat should be of the figured shad ow tapestry and the rup two-toned blue, the exact shade of the silk and cretonne. If one cannot get Just the right shade of blue. . then use a gray rug with- blue In the border. Now is a chance to use a brass bedstead If desired and the other furniture could be of blrdscye maple. Any light wood looks well with the shade Of light blue. Arranging the Kitchenette THE KITCHENETTE, or makeshift kitchen. Is Invaluable nowadays to women who live In small quarters or board. It gives opportunity for the domestic instinct Inherent In all fem inine hearts, and where means are lim ited the small arrangement may turn out all the meals eaten. Some kitchenettes are arranged in a most complete and exquisite manner and others are as primitive as the g-ypsy campfire. It all depends on how much money you've got to spend and how you live. The little cooking niche, how ever managed. Is an Interesting study. Men have the kitchenette mania as well as we women, and It must be confessed that they get the place up far more properly than does the g-entlor Bex. A bachelor architect, who Is also an amateur painter and worker In metals, has devised for his artistic studio what he calls a "portable" kitchenette. A alngle piece of furniture Is made to hold all the artlclea concerned, and this Is In the form of a high chest with sliding- shelves, the contrivance standing- at the gentleman' left elbow as he sits at table entertaining his guests and cooking their dinner at the same time. The .top of this chest la covered with a square piece of asbestos, and on It stands the atove. one of the simple "hot-plate" gas affairs that may be bought for 76 cents at any big store. This Is attached with an ordinary tub ing to the gas fixture over the table, but the convention of this wonderful little stove ends there. With four sheets of copper, atached to the bottom sides, and fitting very closely, the architect has arranged the under space for bak-Ing.-the stove legs being high enough for the purpose. The door of the bnker is detachable, and in this crude little hole squabs are broiled, small chickens roasted, macaroni baked, bacon sizzled and eggs cooked sur le plat. The chest shelves are made of bread boards bought at the 10-cent store these sandpapered at the edges to slide easily, and all of the cooking con veniences are of a very sophisticated sort, although limited In number. When the cooking Is going on, a shelf Is pulled out near the table side to hold the various utensils used, and as fast as one course is dispatched the dishes are neatly piled onto a lower shelf in the chest, clean ones coming out from another department. Not once does this wonderful cook with his Ingenious apparatus get up during the meal. Everything is to his nana, annougn confesses that each dish is prepared elsewhere before the cooking begins. On one occasion this wee perambulating kitchen, which Blips around easily on rollers, turned out a dinner of six courses: soup, filet of sole, stuffed to matoes, broiled chicken, herring and potato salad and Jam omelet. An en gaged girl being present at the feast, and praising the movable kitchen In the highest terms, the clever host promised her one as a wedding gift. What pres ent could be more appropriate, even If a bride expects to Bet up quite a fine house? There are always Bide uses for the kitchenette. When arranging these little dou baby cooking places, one should con dense arrangements In every possible manner. If a closet with a window is used all the better as the opening will provide draft for smells and the closet can be got up a good deal In regular kitchen manner. There could be the white paint that cleans so easily, a red brick linoleum, and white enameled shelves set with an array of cooking utensils for holding the things of the larder. If much cooking goes on, an Icebox Is indispensable, and the port able nursery ones are Just the sort to get, as these are very small, although generous 'enough for the use of two persons. A coffee pot three earthen ware casseroles, a double boiler, two saucepans and two of the little French plats of frying pans are enough fur nishings for a modest closet kitchen ette. If the householders are tea drink ers, the tea table, with all the appara tus used, could stand in the living-room and so leave still more space in the kitchenette. These little makeshift kitchens, which women of domestic tastes have caused to be Introduced Into the smartest apartments, are the Inspiration for wonderful Inventions In the way of cooking conveniences. One is a baker which seems to have been devised at the . first period of the metal age a simple perforated tin placque, lined with something or other and topped with a heavy tin cover In one piece. On this minute thing almost anything small enough to go under the cover can be baked to a T, potatoes especially well. An omelet pan. folding at the center so that the goody itself does not have to be turned, a glass coffee grinder, and pepper and salt casters with two and three bottles are among the other handy things. Business women are given to putting their kltchenettea In odd places. In bu reau drawers, washstands, in the space a door between rooms sometimes gives, and so on. But if the little space used Is fitted up compactly and kept neatly It may be anywhere. One thing Is cer tain the kitchenette adds to the Joy of life. It Is. above all, the cure open to the woman away from home for homesickness and folly. But one must learn to cook, of course. nice Tuddlne Wash half a cupful of rice thoroughly and soak it in cold water for two hours; drain. Add then three tablespoonfuls or sugar, a lime salt, grated nutmeg, four cupfuls of rich sweet milk and half a cupful of raisins. Bake for two hours, stirring occasion ally; then put In another cupful of rich milk and bake for an hour longer. Serve in the baking dish, y This Is a very substantial sweet for growing children. Junket warra a quart of sweet milk, add a tablespoonful of rennet, cool and serve with powdered sugar, grated nut meg and sweet cream. This dainty and nourishing dessert would cost prac tically no mor than 10 cents. Answers to Correspondents BY LILIAN TINGLE. PORTLAND. Or., Feb. 20. Will you give the recipe for the loaf of bread your high rhool girls make? How csn I fry mush brown? Thanking you In advance. MRS. W. C. M. I JUDGE that you mean the propor tions for the bread the school girls bake at home, rather than the recipe for the smaller individual "school-exercise" loaf. The "recipe" presupposes a knowledge of "whys and wherefores," resulting from the study of the composition and qualities of flour, the life and growth of yeast, the correct temperagires for rising and baking, the purpose, results and meth od of kneading, the effect on yeast doughs of shortening, sugar, salt and potatoes. This knowledge can be gained (where no teacher is available) partly by the study of the free Government bulletin on . bread-making (or of the many up-to-date books on food study, obtainable from the Public Library) and partly from experience, but the Instruction required cannot all be crowded Into the limits of a "recipe." Household bread One cup scalded milk. 1 cup boiling water (or 2 cups scalded milk; or 2 cups boiling water, as preferred), 1 tablespoon lard, 1 ta blespoon butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, 2 teaspoons salt, U cake perfectly fresh compressed yeast, softened In U cup lukewarm water. 8 cups sifted flour. All measurements level. Put the shortening, Bugar and salt Into a large bowl or bread-mixer. Pour on Ahe boiling liquid. Let this cool to lukewarm, while you prepare the yeast; and, if the weather is cold or damp, put the flour -where it will be come thoroughly dry and slightly warmed. When the liquid is Just luke warm, add the yeast and. sift in 5 cups dry. slightly warm Hour, stirring with a large knife until thoroughly mixed, or simply turning the crank of the mixer. Add the remaining flour, and turn out on a board to knead, if no bread mixer is used. Knead until the mixture Is satin-smooth, elastic to the touch, and shows bubbles under the surface. You are not likely to overknead, but you may underknead the bread. Do not let the dough become chilled In kneading. Keturn to the greased bowl; cover with a clean cloth, and let rise at G5 degrees F. It Is a good precaution to brush with melted lard or butter the top of the dough, to prevent the formation of a crust. In the morning it should have doubled in bulk. Cut down which means cut and turn the dough over and over a little to check fermenta tion slightly. Bread may be "cut down" several times if it is not quite convenient to shape it when It has doubled In bulk. Repeated cutting down tends to decrease, slightly, the nourishment, but gives a finer, whiter crumb. Bread need never sour If (1) good yeast is used; (2), the correct temper ature Is maintained: (3), cutting down Is promptly done when the dough is double In bulk. Usually one cutting down Is enough, though some -people greatly prefer two. Toss on a slightly floured board, and shape Into loaves. Place In greased pans, having pans half full. - Cover and let rise at 65 de grees F. (temperature Is immensely Important in breadmaklng), to double In bulk; then bake 60 to 60 minutes. This quantity makes two loaves. Generally you may count one cup of liquid to a loaf. The exact amount of flour varies with Its strength. Usu ally three to three and a half cups flour Is wanted for each cup wetting. The salt and sugar may be slightly Varied to suit Individual tate. Pota toes are an optional ingredient In bread-making. They are useful when only poor yeast is available. Many people prefer potato bread fiom force of habit; but It Is actually less nutritious and sometimes less di gestible than well-made all - flour bread. The potatoes supply bulk, moisture and a form of starch well adapted for the nourishment of the yeast plant. Vet me know If irou want any suggestions about baking. Remember, a ' slack-baked loaf al ways invites indigestion. To secure good fried mush, tcut neat slices, thick enough to hold together, from nicely seasoned cold molded mush. A pound baking powder can makes a good mold. Dip the slices m beaten egg and milk (equal parts), and drop into a pile of sifted cracker meal or very fine dry bread crumbs, on a clean sheet of kitchen paper. Tip the crumbs over the slice by raising the edges of the paper. This is quick- I New Ideas for SHOWER bouquets will Btlll be car ried by many brides, but the newest notion for the bride's nosegay is for old-time primness. The smart bouquet of the moment is built up in quaint, stiff, pyramid man ner, the flowers of different sorts in rows, and the charming bunch finished oft with a paper lace frill and a tinfoil handle. Some new and remarkable roses will be used for these, buds scarcely opening and as pointed as tu lips, with the border of the bouquet of real orange blossoms, Catalonian Jessa mine, or white violets. The bouquet has satin streamers, of course, but they are very short bo as to be !n keeping with the Btlff posy. Manufactured by the florist, such bouquets cost from $16 to $25, but as the nosegay Is generally presented by the bridegroom the aver age smart bride cares little about the price. Made in exactly the same manner, al though much smaller, are bodice knots of varicolored flowers, called "Mayfair corsages." These are without the pa per frill, as may be expected, but the knot has ribbon Btreamers, and except for the color of the nowers the cor sages are in the exact pyramid form of the bride's bouquet. Tulip buds In a dark wine color or purplish red, with rims of forget-me-nots and pansies, will appear in the Mayfair corsage which will be worn by a group of six bridesmaids at an Easter wedding. With these dark flowers, singular to say. the frocks will be of pale pink veiling topped by blue taffeta coats. One of the sweetest flower arrange ments for the reception table comes in the form of a little tree of half-blown buds, arranged In pyramid shape, with a long stem planted in a little orna mental wicker pot painted white, with gilt touches. These trees are made by hand, of course, the buds packed to gether tightly, and the Btems kept fresh with wet moss; the trunk is wrapped around with brownish-green paper, and called Vauxhall trees. They are very easy to make at home if one Is so slt uateC as to be in touch with cheap flow er facilities, or lives In a district where posies are a part of every home's wealth. Two more of the Vauxhall trees are set on the wedding table. -or they are put upon the bufret when the spread comes In that manner. For table favors the most exquisite little bouquets In pyramid form are seen, these both in real and artificial flowers, and always tied with ribbon, stems tin-foiled. All of the big shops show the artificial nosegay favors, the iniitnnhnlc helns unrommonlv big aa compared with former ones, and"1 ly done, and forms a fat-proof coating, preventing greasiness and sogginess. Fry in deep fat, a few pieces at a time, so as not to cool the -fat too much or cause over boiling. Drain on paper, being careful to let each piece drip, if it will, into the pan be fore transferring to paper. Mush fried In tljis way uses less fat, actually, then in the ordinary, care less shallow frying way. Is always brown and attractive, and Is much more digestible as well as economical. It can be varied in shape, flavor and accompaniments, so as to be available for either sweet or savory dishes. A well-beaten egg, -thoroughly stirred into the hot mush before mold ing, makes cutting and frying easier and adds to the flavor and nutriment of the dish, without greatly Increasing the cost except, of course, when eggs are 'way up in price. Let me know If you need instruction in the man agement of frying fat. Test the tem perature of fat as for croquettes. Portland. Or., March 3. Please give a recipe for raised cake, that is. cake made nd raised with yeast, preferably dry yeast. Thanking you for be!p la the past. MRS. F. A. W. . I am not at all clear as to the kind of cake desired. Is it a "coffee cake." or one of the old-fashioned "election cake, type, given below? If dried yeast only i3 available, use it to make- good home made yeast and raise the cake with the latter. Thus you can be sure the yeast Is alive and strong, and you are less dependent on "luck." Election Cake One-half cup butter, 1 cup well risen bread dough, 1 egg, 1 cup brown sugar, cup sour milk, 2-3 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces; 8 fine chopped figs, H4 cups flour, teaspoon soda, M teaspoon clove. tea spoon mace, teaspoon nutmeg, 1 tea spoon salt. Work the butter into the dough. Add. the sugar, beaten with the . egg, milk, fruit (tossed In ailttle of the flour) and the flour sifted with the soda and spices. Place In a well buttered bread pan: cover and let rise about lYt hours, or until light. Bake one hour In a rather slow oven. Cover with "boiled milk frosting." Let me know if this is not the kind of cake you meant. There are, of course, many possible varieties of "raised cake." Portland. Or., March 3. Kindly give recipe for gluten bread. MISS R. G. Gluten Bread Two cups lukewarm water, one-half cake fresh compressed yeast, 3 cups gum gluten ground, one half teaspoon salt. Soften the yeast in a small quantity of the water. Mix all the ingredients together, to a stiff dough, and knead very thoroughly, using a little more gluten. If necessary, to keep It from sticking to the board. Avoid having the water too warm, or the bread will be very sticky. Shape into a. loaf; place in a buttered pan. and- let rise about 2 hours, or until double, in bulk. Then bake 45 minutes. Some makers let rise and "cut down" once before shaping. Shortening Is not required, and sugar is usually forbidden to those whose diet calls for gluten bread. More salt may be used If liked. Gluten bread is never as appetizing as ordinary bread. Some so-called gluten breads and gluten flours on the market contain a com paratively high proportion of starch, and are therefore unsulted to patients on a very strict starch-and-sugar free diet. Portland. Or., March S. I should like di rections for preserving eggs in "water glass." MRS. F. A. "Water glass," or silicate of soda. Is a thick syrupy liquid sold by the pound at drug stores usually 10 to 20 cents a pound for the best grade. In 10 pound lots, enough for 50 dozen eggs, the lower price is probable. There are several grades on the market, but it pays to get the best One part water glass to 12 parts water Is a common preserving solution; though 1 to 6. and 1 to 10, are also used. Measure carefully. The water should be boiled and cooled before measuring, with the "water-glass," Into a creek of suitable size. The eggs are best placed small end down. Soiled or cracked eggs must not be used. The eggs should not be washed. They should be packed. If possible, the day they ate laid. Fertile eggs are best for keeping. Fresh can be add ed every day till the Jar Is full. The solution should Just cover the eggs. The crock should have a good lid. Keep covered and undisturbed in a cool place. This is a method of egg-preserving highly recommended by the United States Department of Agriculture. I must ask other correspondents to wait until next week for their replies. Wedding Flowers made of a single bright bud this form ing tho point of the pyramid massed round with forget-me-nots or pansies and candytuft. Huge bouquets for the center of the table of artificial flowers are quite com mon and when the posies are of a deli cate sort they are as ravishing as the real thing that Is to the eye, for the perfume, the soul of the flower Is want ing. One such posy seen in a big shop was of the delicate leaflike yellow or chids which look so like tiny butter flies along their fragile sprays, these Interspersed with imitation asparagus fern, and being maids of honor to a violet crape orchid and bud in the cen ter. MART DEAX. Thornless Blackberries Xext. Luther Burbank in the Christian Herald. I have heard of thornless blackberries having been discovered in North Caro lina and along the Eastern coast, but unfortunately the berries weref not of any use for food. I have also grown so-called, but not by any means thorn less, ones 40 years ago. Electricity was also known for thousands of years, but It was-worthless until developed. Steam was also useless as an old In perform ing the labor of mankind until some one made it useful. . It is the same with the thornless blackberry. It Is now productive, delicious to eat, large and in every way valuable for food, and absolutely smooth like the twig of an apple tree. There are seedless apples in existence today, but none of them are of any commercial value. There was once a. so-called stoneless plumy but It was not larger than a large bean and was not fit for human food. The bush was an Ill-shaped thorny one and the fruit absolutely useless. Now there are, growing on my farms, splendid prunes and plums which are stoneless. Nature gives us a hint and it is man's business to carry out the work to pro duce results. Xew Vanity Bag. Exchange. The latest fancy for exploiting the bead is seen in the new- vanity bags made , entirely with beads a trifle larger than a haricot bean. The bags are lined inside with silk or brocade and have the usual clasp top, whilst the outside Is covered all over with beads, all of equal size. Beads form the loop handles and make a fringe at the lower edge of the bag. Better Broiler of Fish. Good Housekeeping. I always had trouble In broiling fish on my gas oven broiler until I bought a wire broiler. Now I place the Ilsh In Bea WiseWoman CORSETS The new" Nemo "Auto Massage" Self -Reducing Corset not only makes you LOOK smaller, but, by constant, gentle auto matic massage, drives away the fat so that you ARB smaller. Two models: No. 353 low bust No. 354 medium OTHER NEMOS A Fit for Every Figure $3.50, $4.00 and $5.00 rjEAR MADAM: Somewhere in the Nemo line there is a cor set that will give you more style, comfort and wear than any other cor set you can buy. You ought to Iiave it! Nearly every good deal er sells Nemo Corsets. Some of them do not push the Nemo, because other makes yield larger profits. That's all right for the dealer, but not for you. THINK THA T 0 VER. If your dealer ever tries to sell you something "just as good" when you ask for a Nemo Be a Wise Woman! and go to a store where they will give you what you want. ' But this won't happen often for really wide awake merchants every where are building up their VERY BEST TRADE on the Nemo Corset "the corset that never had a rival." In Good Stores Everywhere KOPS BROS., Mfrfc, New York the wire one, and have no trouble in turning it in the gas oven broiler, whereas in the old way I often broke the fish when I tried to turn it with a fork. . Bead Purses Popular. Washington (D." C) Star. Beaded purses, far from decreasing in popularity, are coming out in new shapes and sizes, some of the prettiest being of black cut Jet ornamented with a design In gold beads. Long cord handles are more favored than the metal handles, while the fringe at the bottom is growing in length, ami in some cases is almost as long as the body of the purse.