Till! SUNDAY OKECOXIA.V. 1'OKTLAND. MAKCII 17. 1913.
G
HAND-MADE FROCKS OF BATISTE
AND LACE MAKE GOOD BABY DRESS
Entire Garment Has No Sewing-Machine Stitches, but Throughout Is Made of Sheer White Fabric and Trim
mings of Open Work That Show Value of, Goods.
f i f. r-ri : V --:v,VWa.!. :" V- 4 fill
E fc:;
JToJ7c ZtZcc J-ocs
NOT a tltch et by the sewing- ma
chine gotu into distinguished lit
tle frocks of sheer white fabric
with trimmings of rest lace. Such a
frock, of finest French batiste with
trimmings of Irish crochet and Val
lace. Is shown here. The waist has
Insertions of the Irish and Val set be
tween pln-tucklns;. The sleeres are
babyish and simple and the gathered
skirt is trimmed with a band of the
Irish crochet between the entre deux
of Vat and a flounce of Irish crochet
at the edge. The black buttoned boots
with white stockings are a modish no
tion. Pln-strlped linen In a cool, dainty
green and white, was used for this lit
tle morning (rock. Bands of plain
or
green linen are used as trimming and
these bands are edged with bias pip
ings of black and white striped linen.
The square neck Is newer than the
round Dutch neck and the sleeves are
set In under a shoulder pleat. The
placing of the three buttons with
buttonhole motifs of . green linen. Is
effective and clever. The buttoned
strap slippers with short socks are
childish and graceful.
BUSY MOTHERS FIND SHOPS CATER TO
MODES OF SMALL FOLK CHEAPLY
Low Price of Eeady-Made Articles Offsets Desire to Make Clothes at Home Black Boots With White Stockings
New Tad for Grown Women Headgear for Children Moderates in Size. s
THE mother who Is too busy to pass
a !eal of time In the fashioning
of little garments at home can
do a great deal bette'r In the shops
now than would have been possible a
few years ago. Ready-to-wear raiment
for children has reached a degree of
excellence which It seems Impossible
to surpass, yet with each new season
prettier and prettier frocks, smarter
coats and more attractive prices greet
the seeker after good values. Of
course, the hand-made things are al
ways expensive: but for tbem one goes
to the exclusive shops where high
price Is to be expected and where a
substantial sum must be paid out. over
and above the value of a garment, for
the name on the box In which It Is
t home. Very aristocratic little
folk, albeit with the aristocracy of
millions rather than of lineage emblaa
oned on the door-panels of the limou
sines In which they ride, come to be
fitted out with the hand-made Parisian
frocks and ravishing bonnets fur
nished at such emporiums; but the
average mother can outfit her small
daughters and her little sons, too
very satisfactorily In any department
store having special buyers for chil
dren's wear.
Il takes a mother clever In brain
and skilled In needlecraft to produce
little garments as attractive as those
offered at really moderate prices In
the shops: for while high-priced de
signers are employed to plan out these
Juvenile models, manufacturers can. of
course, buy their material much more
cheaply than It may be obtained at
retail: and a little frock that would
require hours of planning: a morning
spent In shopping for buttons, cord and
DIber details In trimming: and two
days of patient work In the sewing
room, may often be bought for less
than S3. Ftrtped and checked glng
bams. effectively trimmed wtth plp
Inrs of plain color; smart pique frocks
with rows of stitching: new striped
linens with touches of plain colored
linen effectively applied; dainty Wlml
ties with lace and pintucklng. and sim
ple, fine white frocks trimmed with
good embroidery, are all ready for
the mother who may not pay a high
price but who Is fastidious about style,
daintiness and the simplicity which
means distinction in a child's garment,
Itqae ery Kaahloaable.
This year pique Is Immensely fash
ionable In women's realm as well as
In the children's departments, and
frocks and roats of pique vie with
linen In iopulartty. There are new
striped piques as well as the pure
white sort and the smartest weave
has a very wide welt almost like a
Bedford cord. Pique shrinks badly
and the material should always be
shrunk and pressed before a child's
frock Is cut from It. Kven then the
skirt and sleeves will shorten consid
erably before the season has passed,
and allowance should be made for
this If the frock Is fashioned at home.
Ready-made garments for children,
when of good quality, have generoua
hems, and seams are allowed at the
right places, with width enough for
the Inevitable -letting out."
Four chiming frocks of pique were
exhibited last week by a shop where
children's raiment Is a specialty. All
of these frocks were white and were
Intended for little girls of from ( to 11
years. The first frock was a straight,
box-pleated model with set-In sleeves
and Irish crochet cuffs and collar.
Down Uie center Xroat and back went
a panel of the Irish crochet, four
inches wide, and over this panel three
tabs of the pique buttoned with big
pearl buttons. The effect was very
simple' and smart. The second frock
opened In front with a row of round
pearl butons and ordinary buttonholes,
but the buttonholed side was turned
back, rever fashion, and within the
opening was a chemisette of tucked
lawn which showed from neck to
waistline. The frock was finished with
a Filet lace collar and had a broad
blue suede belt around the low waist
line. The third pique frock was In a
10-year slse and had tabs of tucked
batiste Inserted In each sleeve and at
the front, near the neck. The pique
was stitched down . over the tucked
tabs and a row of tiny pearl buttons
was placed along one edge of each
tab. This frock had a belt of black
leather and with it would be worn
white stockings and buttoned boots
of black patent leather with cloth
tops.
Black Boots, 'While Stecklags Fad.
Black boota with white stockings
are a fad Just now. for grown women
as well as for children, and such boots
are considered smarter than white
boota except with very elaborate
frocks. Indoors, the little girl wears
buttoned strap slippers with white
stockings or' socks. Very little folk
wear socks with plaid or fancy tops,
but the girl of eight or nine, though
she may wear the comfortable socks
If her mother pleases, wears the plain
er sort with buttoned boots In the
Street.
The fourth pique frock almost for
gotten, but too charm'ng to be passed
by was perfectly plain except for a
little pleated frill of hemstitched lawn
at the neck and dosans and doxens of
buttons with cord loops attached.
These buttons went all the way down
the front: half way up the sleeves on
the other side, and four Inches up
each side of the skirt at the side
seams. The striking feature of the
frock, however, was the belt which
went only half way around. Button
holed silts were worked In the frock
at front and back and the belt passed
through these, continuing around the
figure under the frock on one side.
The use of buttons on children's
frocks very marked. Not only are
linen, pique and eglngham frocks
trimmed with rows of buttons with
buttonhole loops or motifs, but dressy
coats of pongee, bengallne and taffeta
have Buttons as a first essential of
trimming. Pipings are also noted and
the quaint, corded quillings used now
on women's coats.
Headgear for Children Smaller.
A graceful blue and gray changeable
taffeta coat for a five-year-old has a
circular cape edged all around with
corded quilling and the front laps
across and fastens under a huge cord
ed taffeta ornament. Another coat of
champagne colored corded silk has
trimmings of covered buttons and
corded loops, a row down the front, a
row up each sleeve to the elbow, and
also up each slashed side seam to the
waist. Across the back there is a belt,
also button-trimmed. Everyday coats
are In the ever popular and never bet
tered reefer style and are built of
blue serge, striped worsted mixtures
and checked mohair. For wear with
these coats there are new coat sets of
striped pique and embroidery. Lace
coat sets there are galore, but these
are not In good taste with every-day
coats and are best omitted from the
silk coat unless the lace Is real; or
handsomo enough to be distinctive.
For girls of from soven to 14 there are
vary smart raglan coats of gray or
tan cosmos check, with wide sleeves
that slope up to a point at tho neck
and belts across the back In polo style.
These coats will be Invaluable for out
ing wear, motoring or for cool evenings
at the shore.
Headgear for children Is moderate
In slxe Just now, patterning after mil
linery for women. Crowns are rather
high and often peaked In effect, a.?d
brims roll off the face, the hat being
set back on the head so that it gives
a bonnet effect. Fine milan straws
with trimmings of ribbed ribbon In
smart pleated bowa and cockades, or
shirring of taffeta over cord, are the
favored trimmings for first street hats.
Later will come the floppy-brimmed
leghorns with flower trimmings dear to
the heart of every little girl. A few
hats made entirely of shirred taffeta
or net are shown, but they are not as
cHlidlsh and smart as the rolling brim
ni'.lan models with their pert, piquant
ribbon and silk trimming.
FLOUNCES IN HIGH FAVOR
IN NEW SPRING DESIGNS
Bibbon Trimmings Again Appear in Many Designs on Hats Taffeta
Coats With Short Sleeves Make Long Silk Gloves Popular.
THE flounce Is at last established
In high favor, and many of the
new taffeta frocks with fetching
little Jacket wraps to match, have as
many as three or four flounces reaching
to the knee. Of course the flounced
skirt Is short, revealing plainly the
pretty buttoned boots which are now
so fashionable; and It Is also narrow,
the measurement of the scant flounce
being kept within two-and-a-half-yard
width decreed by Madame Mode.
In a season when taffeta as a dress
material Is lifted to the pinnacle of
favor. It seems odd that ribbed ribbons
should have such a vogue In millinery:
but all the ribbon trimmings on Spring
hats seem to be Id sroa grain or otto
man weaves and these ribbons are
pie.-ted Into all manner of smart bow's,
fans, cocades and cabuchons. When big,
soft bows are used, silk by the yard In
taffeta weaves seems the favorite ma
terial. There are special "coat blouses' now,
simple affairs with all the trimming
massed on that portion of the blouse
which shows In the opening of the coat
front. The rest of the blouse Is as plain
as a man's shirt but Is of exquisitely
fine material with simple. set-In sleeves
and buttons and buttonholes at the
back.
Usg Silk Gloves Popular.
So many of the smart little taffeta
coats accompanying dressy costumes,
have three-quarter sleeves that Ions
silk gloves will be sure to have great
popularity this Summer. The shops are
showing delightfully dainty glovewear
In this line long-wristed affairs of
champagne colored with embroideries
In self color: or of white silk with
white embroideries or small cameo pat
terns embroidered In black.
Separate skirts of light-worsted mix
tures are being sold for outing wear
with tailored shirtwaists. Such skirts
are quite as smart In effect as outing
skirts of duck or khaki and there Is no
necessity for the constant laundering
and pressing to which a cotton or linen
skirt must be treated so frequently.
These smart separate skirts come in
mixed tan and gray effects and In
checked cosmos mixtures, and the skirt
Is short enough to show the neat walk
ing boot of tan calf with high buttoned
top.
Lingerie blouses grow more and
more intricate in design and it Is next
to Impossible to obtain a simple blouse
of plain design and fine material, for
manufacturers seem possessed to dupli
cate elaborate models In the cheapest
of materials. The woman who dresses
In good taste selects, now, a tailored
blouse of thin silk or sheer batiste,
seamed with entre deux Of Irish cro
chet ladder work, for wear with her
Spring suit of serge, mohair or light
wool mixture.
Spring Motor Coat Smart.
Spring motor coats are Ideally sim
ple and smart In design and even the
Inexpensive models have good lines,
with broad, roomy shoulders and a nar
row effect at the foot. These coats aro
made of Kngllsh and Scotch tweeds anl
the good looking American wool mix
tures that repeat the tweed effects at
moderate cost. Huge buttons and ec
centrically shaped cuffs, revers and
pockets give them a, knowing and mod
ern look. ' r
Nothing prettier In the millinery line
has been seen In many a day than the
little draped toques of malines which
fit the head like a bonnet and have big
loops of tho tulle sweeping backward
from the crown. These hats are filling
In the between season need very satis
factorily and they are seen in black,
gray and changeable effects, one shaJe
of mallne being draped over another
In modish blends of two colors.
The pronounced vogue of the high
buttoned boot for wear with all types
of costume, has brought, as a natural
result the trim, dainty buttoned oxford
which Is making a bid for my lady's
favor this Spring. Those buttoned
oxfords are delightfully pretty little
affairs and are cut so cleverly that In
them the foot looks as slender and
dainty as In a slipper. High buttoned
boots of suede and satin, and of white
buckskin are also ready for wear with
Summer afternoon costumes.
Menus for One
Week
Tuesday.
Dried rreen pea soup - Croutons
gwbs Ftcak Glazed onions
Masbcd potatoes.
Canned rear and lettuce salad
Chocolate Cream
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Mulligatawny soup
Boned shoulder of mutton, roasted
Brown potatoes Lady cabbage
Tomato jelly salad
Caramel custards
Coffee.
Thursday.
Brown onion puree
Savory mutton loaf Spanish sauce
Kice tlmbales
Cabbage and nut salad
(Canned) loganberry shortcaks
Coffee.
Friday.
Cream of beet soup
Baked halibut Potato stuffing
Scalloped oyster plant
Lettuce esg and plmlento salad
Mocha blanc-mangs
Coffee.
Saturday.
Brown vezetasle soup
Vsal In casserole wtth dumplings
Minced carrots with peas
L,etlure saiaa
Jellied figs with soft custard
Coflee.
Sunday.
Tomato soup
Baked hum. Madeira or elder sauce
Creamed whole potatoes. Parsnip cakes
Chicory salad, with neufehatel
cheese and currant Jelly
Lemon or orange whip, lady tlncers
Coffee. s
Monday.
Red bean soup
Broiled chops Potato roll ,
Rutabaga puree
Celeriac salad
Lemon or raisin pie
Coffee.
Three Iiittle Hints.
When paint sticks to glass It can be
removed with hot vinegar.
To clean pewter, wash the articles
with hot water and .ine silver sano;
then dry and polish them with a leath
er. Bent whalebones can be straightened
by soaking them in boiling water for a
few moments and then Ironing them
straight.
1 TAX SHOES FOR CHILDREN I
f ARB O.MT FOR SCHOOL , 4
HOURS. I
Z r 1 1 I u i u mw miw will ' .'ii.ii'MP M fill' "SW! V !,u a f
: 4.&i,)ec-L'i; i
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t
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-
Latest Style la Footgear.
The well-dressed child may
wear tan shoes during play or
school hours, but with the after
noon or promenade costume white
footwear with white stockings,
or black patent leather with
white stockings is considered
most correct.
Shown here is a white buck
skin boot for 'the child of S to
10 years old. The lines are trim
and graceful, while conforming
to the needs of the growing
foot, and the low heel Is a bet
ter protection for the developing
arch than the very flat sole worn
by the baby foot with perfect
safety. The buttoned top la
slightly high, according to the
present mode, and the buttons
are large and flat. 'The buttoned
slipper is intended for Summer
and bousewear with white atock
. lngs or socks.
PALE TAN COSMOS MIXTURE, SET OFF
BY BLUE CHIP. HAT, SMART FOREASTER
Gloves Are One-Button Affairs Tub Frocks of White Batiste Has Many New and Admirable Feature; Buttoned
Strap Slippers Have Graceful Suggestion and Are Worn by Quite Tall Girls.
y a'i
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7ofe. F4SZ?c 23rc.s-y
THIS little maid is very smart in a
new Spring coat of pale tan cos
mos mixture with facings of
colonial blue and fancy buttons of
pearl with blue rims. Her hat is a
simple sailor shape of blue chip rolled
off the face In front under a bow of
white ribbon and a little black and
white feather ornament. Her high.
buttoned boots are black suede, worn
with black silk stockings. Her gloves
are one-button aflairs of tan' kid and
in her hand she carries a little silver
purse In which is safely stowed away
her offering for the Easter collection.
This tub frock of white batiste has
many admirable features, one of which
Is the double hem on the skirt which
affords a very practical means of let-
ting the frock down when necessary.
The panels of pintucking, set between
insertions of lace, are effective and
may be easily managed by the home
dressmaker. At the waist line is an
embroidery beading through which rib-bon-or
the smart black velvet which
French children wear may be thread
ed. Even quite tall girls wear the but
toned strap slippers which have such
a graceful, childish suggestion.
Entrees for Easter Luncheons
MUSHROOMS UNDER GLASS
Cream two tablespoonfuls of but
ter and add one-half tablespoon
ful of lemon Juice, salt, pepper-nd
one-half tablespoonful of finely chopped
parsley. Cut a piece of bread circulav
and one-half inch thick; spread one
half of the butter mixture on the bread
after toasting it and put the buttered
side down in the cooking dish. Pile
mushroom caps on the toast in conical
fashion, dot the rest of the butter sauce
over the mushrooms and pour over one
third cupful of cream. Cover with glass,
cook on top of range for 25 minutes.
Just before serving add one teaspoon
ful of sherry wine.
The earthenware dish with bell
shaped glass cover for coeking must
rooms in this manner may be bought at
any store which has a house-furnishing
department. While the mushrooms
are cooking, they are never uncovered,
the object of the glass top being to
keep In the flavor.
Creamed Sweetbreads Parboil a
sweetbread cool and cut in half-Inch
cubes. Sprinkle with salt, dredge
lightly with flour and saute in butter
five minutes, then drain. Melt two
tablespoonfuls of butter, stir into this
three of flour, and while stirring con
stantly, add one-half cupful each of
chicken stock and rich milk or cream.
Season with salt and cayenne and serve
In pastry cases.
The sweetbreads mixture Is much Im
proved by the addition of one-third of
a pound of mushroom caps, cleaned,
broken in pieces and sauted in butter.
Baked Shad Spilt fish, clean thor
oughly, wipe very dry and place in a
buttered dripping pan. Season with
salt, black pepper and sprinkle over
with two shallots finely chopped; pour
over all one-half cupful of white wine.
Cover with buttered paper and bake
25 minutes. Remove to hot serving
dish and serve with maltre d'hotel but
ter and thinly sliced cucumbers.
Prepare the butter sauce in this man
ner: Take one-fourth cupful of butter,
salt and pepper to taste, one table
spoonful of lemon Juice and one of
finely chopped parsley. Melt the but
ter in a bowl, set in a pan of hot water,
working It with a wooden spoon until
creamy. . Put In the other things very
. slowly, adding parsley last of. all.
Broiled Shad' Roe Wash the roe,
' dry thoroughly and arrange It in a wire
broiler with a thin slice of salt pork at
either side. Turn often and cook about
! Serve with maltre d'hotel butter and
sliced cucumbers ana lemon. .
"ew Crepes.
Baltimore Sun.
Of all the lovely new Summer, fabrics
perhaps none Is prettier than the filmy
THIS
WILL
STO
YOUR,
SfHAI
new crepes. These show a border of
inset of color against the white and
are almost like chiffon in texture.
Then, too, all they need when soiled
Is plenty of good soap and water and
careful washing.
Orange Delicacies.
' Christian Science Monitor.
To make Florida grapefruit 'Honey"
add to the Juice of one-half a Florida
grapefruit one heaping pint of sugar
and a half pint of water. Cook until
thick. For Florida orange icing with
whole egg, beat one egg very light;
add a pinch of salt, the strained Juice
of half a Florida orange and the grated
rind of whole one, and sufficient
powdered sugar to spread well.
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