v SEPARATE SKIRT IS BACK IN FAVOR IN THE LATEST DESIGNS FOR SPRING One Hcdel Is of Very Pale Gray Reversible Fabric, the Plaid Reverse Side Being Used for Underskirt, Which Shows Under-Slash in the Gray Materials Big Pearl Buttons Aid in Effect. i ii 3 TIB new lie nd net blouses ara so prettr that women, possessing: coats In full length hmre been de manding separata skirts of worsted material so that they may wear the dainty blouses with the long street coat. The sKlrl piciurea is m ur model of Terr pale gray rererslble being )' f.ihrir th clald reverse sld used for the ur.der.klrt. which shows under a slash In the gray material, I ' ..-it'.;.- 1 j, s 1,7 I h .5: i ...yivJ- .(Jo If 2 bl 1 i 'fe;!':; ' .' ' U :. . ' '.Y::, tejiftf 1 CI j Answers to Correspondents BT UUAS TINGLE. SEATTLE. F.b. a My attentioa has ba tailed to aa article In the Sunday Or Konlaa. January IS. under the caption. Anrw tq Correspondents." the Brt llm b.lng from Mrs. T. V. F.. re.ard.ns the to soldered points en the top of cans ol salmon, condensed mils. eta. As this con eerne a great Industry and Its product, ft mar be useful to know what the two soldered points mean, and I taSe tnle oppor tunity to advise y- truailns you win use It to the beet adrantase. and so ss to en courase the use of rather than diecourae the consumption of this most excellent canned food. , Cooklnr. soldertna and testis. Salmon is Srst thoroushly cleaned, cut Into elses snd then pot Into the cans: the tope are put on and soldered. The cans are put Into cooler trays and onnyeyed Into a steam retort, where they are kert under steam pressure of It to If pounds at a temperature of a&out SiO T. tar SO minutes or more. This Is known as rst cooklnc. The trsys sre now eonyeyed to the yentlnc tsble and while SUM very hot a email hole Is punched In the top of each caa. This permits the eerape of all the sas. steam or surplus water that has accumulated hi the can. Thia bole la Immediately tilled with a d-op of solder, aa well aa the center vent. The cana are then eonyeyed to another retort, and for SO minutes are kept under about the same pressure of steam, which thor ouchly rooks and softens the bones. Therefore, the presence of solder points Is eTldence thst the can haa been properly vented and all deleterious matter expelled. In asm the sanitary cana this does not always appear, as various ways are be In experimented with for venting them. Hope too wtU pardon the liberty I hare taken, but yoa are In a position to know the Importance of protecting a business so vltsl to our .welfare on the Coeat and a product that ta the most nourishing and the cleanest canned Ssh product ever put as. W. T. CRAWFORD. Secretary Puet Sound Censers' Aafa I am sura many other housekeepers besides Mrs. T. V. F. will ba Inter ested in tha above letter, as I find by Inquiry that tha "domestic legend" re ferred to In her letter is quite wide spread and la even mentioned In cer tain well-known books on household management. Tha housekeeper of to day needs to keep abreast of at least tha general outlines of modern factory processes, now that tha Immediate preparation of so many food materials is done outside Instead of within the home kitchen: and we are always glad of accurate and disinterested reports on factory methods snd products. Independence. Or. WtU yon kindly tell me In your column how lentils sre rooked? A BUBSCRIBEH. Detailed recipes for lentil dishes hava appeared recently In thla column and therefore cannot be repeated at present. Jn general, however. I may say that lentils may ba treated very much like dried beans or peas, except that owing to their also tha time for cooking may usually ba shortened. They may bo used for soups, purees, plain or scalloped vegetable. In stews or curries. In a "loaf." aa croquettes, sausages, saisds or sandwich pastes. They may also be baked, like beans or peas, with fat from salt pork, vegeta ble oil or butter. If these sugges tions are not sufficient and It you wish a detailed recipe for any of the above, write again In about threa weeks, when I think tha time limit will hava expired. In reply to Miss T. E. H Hillsboro. Or.. I recret to say that It Is absolutely Impossible for me to make personal replies to my many correspondents and 1 Judge that an answer In this column would come too late for her purpose. 1 shall, however, ba glad to print a reply - i -1 T leO- T . - ' 1 I 1 1 IT V. The skirt Is slashed to the belt, but la open only from the knee down, the blsbuttons of smoked pearl adding a smart trimming touch. Belts are returning to favor with a nH mnA nrarv new tailored roitumt shows the belt in some effect or other. though to be sure few belts have as yet reached all around tho garments I If sha caxea to repeat any of her ques tions. , Elms. Wash.. Feb. i. Plsase give. I thro ua The Sunday Oresonlan. recipes for uelns Irish moaa. Is It used like sao? Aleo how do you prepare and eook smoked halibut? I enjoy your column so much. T hao kins you In advance. MKA F. W. O. Irish moss, a kind of dried seaweed, is occasionally used for sick persons as a bland and soothing drink ' or lellv. sometimes useful In Irritable con ditions of tha throat. The mucilaginous substance Is known as lichenln. Its chemical nature Is obscure. It Is quite unaffected by the starch-digesting fluids of the body. It Is very doubtful whether It contributes In any degree at all towards tha actual nourishment of tha patient, since even It tha introgenous matter and lichenln of the moss were digested, there would be less than one-fifth of an ounce of solid matter In one-half pint of Jelly, the rest being water. Occasionally It Is recommended as a substitute for starch In cases' of diabetes, but It Is mora for tha sake of variety than of nutrition, since while It may not ag gravate the disease as starch does, it will not afford sny particular nourish ment. It affords a method for present ing milk In Jellied form, when the patient tires of milk as a liquid. In tha days when "Jellies" of all kinds were regarded with deep veneration as being mysteriously nourishing. Iceland moss had soma considerable vogue and reputation. It was considered "very strengthening" and got credit which should have gone to the milk used with it. Snail Jelly with milk had a similar reputation 100 years ago. To prepare the moss, -wash It In several waters containing a pinch of soda, and pick It over carefully for bits of shell and sand. Soak In cold water until thoroughly swollen (over night Is best) then dissolve the swollen moss In milk or water In a double boiler, cooking until It Jells when dropped on a cold plate. Sugar (If not for a diabetic) and flavoring may be added to taste. Mould like gelatine and serve cold aa a dessert, with cream. If allowed. Or use hot as a soothing gruel for In flamed surtuces. Irish moss lemonade la similarly made, the moss being dis solved, over hot water. In lemonade Instead of milk. This may be taken hot or cold for a sore throat. The slight "sea flavor" Is strongly objected to by soma people and liked by others. It can be partly disguised by tha use of flavoring such as spices, fresh wel low lemon or orange rind, chocolate ttc. and la minimized by tha use of a pinch of soda In the washing and soaking waters, and In the Jelly or lemonade Itself. It thus differs from sago (1) In composition and food value, sago being almost all starch and there fore capable of supplying nourishment when properly cooked; (t) In method of cooking, ssgo being cooked at boil ing point and Irish-moss at a lower temperature (S) In flavor, sago having practically no flavor except that slightly sweetish taste produced by cooking starch until soma part of It Is converted Into a sort of sugar. Let me know if this Is not the Informa tion you desired. Smoked halibut may bo creamed and served on toast or In tlmbales or bread, pastry, rice or potato cases or It may be scalloped In Individual shells or In a casserole, or used for stuffing peppers and other vegetables. It may be broiled (after freshening a little. If necessary) and served with maltre d'hotel butter. It la useful for sandwich pasta and caa ba com they have adorned. This spring coat for general and traveling use is of tan and black wool mixture with trim mings of brown moire silk and braid on collar and cuffs. The sldo gores extend over the back In sharp trian gular sections and below these Is a short belt which emphasises a long waistline. bined with suitable materials In a salad, or used for canapes. Combined with mashed potato It can be made Into croquettes and balls similar to ordi nary codfish balls or baked, in layers, with potatoes. In fact. If the flavor Is liked. It may be used In almost any dish where other kinds of cured fish more commonly appear. -" 'Fortland. Or.. Jan. 11. Will you pleaee give a recipe for mocha balls rolled In chopped nuts 7 Thanking you for the kind ness. MRS. P. Bake any good, very feathery cake mixture, a "rather rich sponge mixture preferred, though sunshine cake. Gen oese pastry, velvet cake or rich sponge cake with a small quantity of melted butter folded in at the last may be used In small round-bottomed Individ ual pans. Put each pair of cakes to gether with an Icing made by heating together sifted confectioners' sugar and butter, using two to three times ss much sugar aa butter. The addition of a little egg yolk makes a smoother Icing, but the amount of sugar will then be Increased. Flavor to taste with strong coffee extract, with a few drops vanilla. Beat as for cake or hard sauce, until the mixture Is like very firm whipped cream and will keep Its shape. The exact amount of sugar depends upon the kind used, the con sistency snd flavor are the important points. Cover the cake balls thus formed with the Icing and toss like croquettes in chopped nuts. For va riety chocolate might be used to flavor the icing. In place of coffee; but then the cakes would not, of course, be "Mocha balls." This same "Vienna icing" might also ba colored faint pink and flavored with vanilla or rose: or palest green, and flavored with almond or pistache. In the latter case apri cot marmalade might be used instead of frosting to hold the two halves of tha balls together. Another sort of mocha ball Is made with chou paste such ss la used for cream puffs, but put on the baking sheet through a tube to secure a good round shape. These are filled with custard cream, flavored with coffee and then covered with either the above Vienna Icing or a boiled Mocha icing and finished with or without nuts. I must ssk Mrs. H. E. T. (Portland) and Mrs. O. D. N. (Portland) to wait until next week for their replies. The Chief Food Needs of Beauty THERB Is always a lot of talk of the superiority of this or that diet, but it Is also a proved fact that restriction in variety is very harm ful. The human animal Is omnivorous, requiring a greater choice ' of food, more excitement for the palate, than any other animal. The very difference of tha fluids in tha stomach which act upon different substances proves thla Food must be something of a pleasure, then, to bring pleasing results. It must tempt the fancy as well as keep the body going. Now what is tha average American regimen for tha day? For breakfast coffee, meat and potatoes. For lunch meat, potatoes and tea. For dinner meat, potatoes or some other vegetable of an indifferent sort, a pudding or a piece of pie and more coffee or tea. It may change a little here and there, but on tha majority of days the diet is the same. And the body of Venus herself could not remain wholesome under such commonplace and heavy tribute. You hava sees your pimples and sallow skin, felt your headaches and dyspep sia all tha result, if you please, of tha same stupid, heavy diet. So begin changing things right away. Eat meat only once a day. substitute tha white ones for the red. hava fish Instead of the usual meat course some times, take to fresh vegetablea plainly cooked, eat of green and fruit salads of all sorts.. Leave off the Dibble of candy or cake between meals, so that Lyou may have tha hunger required for digestion and pleasure when the time comes for eating. Prepare your dishes with the utmo3t care, serve them dain tily and eat them with xest, content ment and calm. If you do these things, and eat slowly, besides, you will asslmlllate better and be stronger in body and fairer to see. Those troubled with weak chests, who are pallid and under-nourished, need to consume more fat, and this is best taken In the form of olive oil or cod liver oil. The structure of the lungs consumes a great deal of the body's oil and when they are diseased it stands to reason that they will need all of the fat the stomach can take In without hurt to tha digestive organs. These oils are likewise beautifying to the skin, smoothing it to satin soft ness, while feeding all of tha underly ing tissues and muscles. The. nrosDectlve mother needs to ba specially careful in her diet as any In discretion here may bring on fatal con sequences. Her food should be espe cially nourishing, daintily set forth, tempting to see and taste, and she must partake of It without being dis , turbed by family squabbles or cares ' of any sort. She has another body j and spirit In her keeping, and through one of Nature's subtleties, which none can understand, she is extraordinarily I sensitive to all passing events. With i her mere food she Is making bones. blood and flesh for another, ana witn her heart and mind's peace and Joy she Is shaping the coming child's char acter. And here we come to the spir itual side of food. By what alchemy are beans, bread, meat, vegetables, puddings and lee cream transmuted into those elements of the body we know so well? Phy sicians themselves cannot explain It. for the greatest mystery of life Is not explainable. The doctor only tells the little mother-to-be that if she eats of graham and gluten bread she will strenKthen her child's bones and teeth. He only warns the girls that If they gobble candy all the time, or eat piles of pics' feet and cabbage they will ruin their complexions, stomachs and figures. He only tells the weak peo ple that they must eat more or often er than the strong, and tells the great strong, overfed ones, who still are tar gets for all the body's Ills, that they eat too much. He does not dabble with the spiritual, for It Is not In his line in fact that mere Indiscretion. In eating la a grave sin aealnst the rplrlt. that Invisible you which must show through the keenness of your mind, through your heart's wisdom and the works of your life. He is not paid to speak of the sacrament of food. Regularity In meals is a great aid to the beauty that Is to be obtained from them, if each is taken at its appointed hour there will be less liability to In digestion and all its ensuing outward blemishes. Nature's angels love to be encouraged with punctuality. As to between-meal eating. the charge against It only holds good for perfectly well persons. Those who are 111 and those of delicate constitution may often require the little between meal bite for the renewal of strength. A cup of hot chocolate and a piece of bread and butter at four o'clock or a raw eKS beaten up In milk will give the heart of many a worker courage to go .on, while the extra energy so gained prevents her body from taking on the stamp of wasted fires. I have spoken many times of the im portance of keeping the bowels open and I must add hers that even the nectar of the gods would do nothing for our beauty if this daily elimination of the refuse of food be not considered. Pimples, sallow skin, headache, the bloated feeling and genesol depression of spirits are the Immediate results of constipation, and It may bring about graver calamities. A teaspoonful of olive oil -taken on going to bed at night or else a glass of hot water con taining a half teaspoonful of salt Is a simple laxative obtainabla In every home. Here then are the chlefest food needs of beauty what seems to suit your especial constitution, as much food as you need and no more, appetite, con tentment and afterward the elimination of waste. You must make food your helDer and not your boss, the wining: servant of blushes and lilies and fine hair and a pretty figure. . For the rest, sweet milk and cream and buttermilk are all beautifying to the complexion. Spinach and other greens contain the salts useful for the liver, and carrots, green beans, lettuce, etc., all hold their own contributions to loveliness and health. There Is a saying. "Show me what he eats and I will tell you how ha lives." Transpose the saying, "Show me how you live and I will tell you what you eat." Either way you put It the speech holds everlasting truth. We cannot es cape the spiritual need of our banquets. So guard thy stomach, for out of It are the issues of thy sweetest looks. Make eating a sacrament by looking out for the nourishing foods and never abusing them. Consider the seasons and their gracious supplies, drink fresh water between meals, breathe fresh air, exercise. For all hygienic living will count In the returns. Beauty Is the handmaiden of reason. KATHER1NE MORTON. BCCKHKIV FOOTGEAR IS FASHIONABLE WITH TAIL ORED GARB, White Boat Now la Style. , There Is a decidedly dashing and attractive suggestion about the spotless white boots worn In the street now with tailored garb, having a touch of white In Its make-up. These white boots are usually of buckskin and are built on conventional walking lines, with welted soles, moderate Cuban heels and smart stitching across the toe. Tha tops sre a trifle higher than the ordinary boot-top, for with the white boots, white stockings must be worn, and these may not reveal themselves under the hem of the skirt. The boot closes with flat, white pearl rivet but tons, set close together. F if THERE is not. a stout woman alive whose FIGURE may not be GREATLY- IMPRQVED by wearing Nemo Corsets. In many cases the transformation from a shapeless mass to a graceful form is simply MARVELOUS. No other corsets can render similar service; for no others have the patented Nemo features nor even-a good imitation of them. The fast-growing popularity of Nemo Corsets in PARIS, and their undoubted leadership in EVERY OTHER fashion centre on both continents, proves that Nemo Corsets are the STANDARD OF STYLE the world over. For STOUT figures, these are among the highly-favored models: SELF-REDUCING With the new "Auto-Massage" device, which actually drives away tha fat and makes your figure wrmanently smaller. Perfect style, wonderful comfort: No. 3S3 Low bast No. 154 Medium NEMOS ARE SOLD IN KOPS BROS German Nemo Factory Cannetatt-Stuttgart (5) N Year Valentine Party VALENTINE'S DAT, a day that is given over to the expression of sentiment, is the best day . in the whole year for reversing the natural order of things and giving a leap year party. So. If you have not yet thought out the kind of party you are going to give on the 14th day of tha month, make it a leap year party and combine the customs and festivities of the day and the year. . Most of the success of a leap year party depends on the enthusiasm of the guests and their willingness to enter into tha spirit of the old custom Vhich decrees that once in every four years woman changes places with man and courts and cares for while man sits by andraciously accepts this homage. If the men enter Into the spirit of the day thay will gather In little groups, simper and giggle and wait with feigned timidity for tha advances of the girls. They, on the other hand, must seek chairs for the men while they themselves stand, must be solici tous about draughts and must fetch and carry all the evening that the men may be perfectly comfortable. Follow out a Valentine's day scheme as far as the decorations are concerned. Pink and red axe the accepted Val entine's day colors, but as they some times clash when used together It would perhaps be safer to choose one of them and stick to It for all decorations. Fes toons of paper hearts and arrows in the doorways, paper Cupids pinned to curtains and draperies and perched on shelves and backs of chairs, and a few pink or red flowers will give a festive air to the rooms In which the guests assemble. A variation on a salmagundi party MAKE YOUR OWN HAIR TONIC A SPECIALIST'S ADVICB. In a recent Issue the New York Herald published a special article on the care of the hair, in which was given the formula for a home-made Hair Tonic which was highly recommended for its remarkable hair-growing properties, as well as for stopping falling hair, re vitalizing the hair roots, destroying the dandruff germ and restoring gray hair to Its natural color. This article was of special interest to me, as the formula was one which I myself have pre scribed In countless cases with most sstonlshing results. ' I remember one case in particular in which I prescribed It for a man who had been bald for many years and in less than two months after he began Its use his head was completely covered with a luxuri ant growth of rich, glossy hair, thus proving that hair can be made to grow on a bald head, notwithstanding the opinion of many persons to the con trary. For the benefit of those who have not seen It before. I give the formula herewith: 6 ounces of Bay Rum, 2 ounces Lavona do Composee. one-half drachm Menthol Crystals. Dissolve the Crystals in the Bay Rum and then add the Lavona de Composee; shake thor oughly and apply night and morning to the roots of the hair, rubbing into the scalp with the finger-tips. This preparation contains no coloring mat ter, but restores gray hair to its nat ural color by its action on the hair roots. If you desire it perfumed, add one teaspoonful of To-Kalon Perfume, which combines perfectly with the other Ingredients and imparts a most pleasing scenU Adv. N2 406 MOP SELF-REDUCING With Lastikops-Limshaping Exten sions, which reduce the upper limbs to natural size, producing a smooth, slender effect. Regular Self-Reducing front, extra-long skirt: No. 406 Low bust No. 408 Medium GOOD STORES IN EVERY COUNTRY WHERE Mfrs Homo Office and American Factory, New York British will perhaps afford more opportunity for the leap year spirit to crop out than any other form of entertainment. In the frequent changes from table to table the girls win have a chance to place chairs for the men. to give up cushions and comfortable seats to their partners, and to do any of the many other little kindnesses that occur to them to be In keeping with the leap year idea. To add to the fun each man should be given a heart-shaped scorecard out of red or pink stiff paper, and every time he "forgets" himself every time he picks up a fallen handkerchief, of fers a chair to a woman guest, remains standing until his partner has seated herself, or so much as passes a plate of sandwiches he should receive a fine in the way of a little gummed paper heart pasted to his scorecard. At the end of the evening the man having the least number of fines should be given a prize. In like manner the girls might be fined for accepting courtesies from the men. The prize for the man might be a box of cigarettes, and for the girl a similar box of chocolate cigarettes. As to the salmagundi party, there ' Health and Beauty Advice BY MRS. Ada T.: Avoid all complexion creams which contain oil, as they make the skin shiny and cause hair to grow on the face. By stirring 2 teaspoonfuls glycerine and one ounce almozoin into H-P'nt cold water you have a match less cream-Jelly for clearing, softening and whitening the skin. It Is unsur passed for cleaning the complexion and making It smooth and youthful look ing. Use this morning and night and you need have no worry about the way your face will look. Mrs. F. B.: Weight reduction Is a very simple matter. These old-fashioned theories of violent exercises and starvation are all nonsense, and at the best furnish only temporary relief. To take off fat, use this remedy: Dissolve 4 ounces of parnotis in 14 pints hot water and take a tablespoonf ul be fore meals. This simple, harmless remedy works wonders where many of the "sure cures" fail. It leaves the skin smooth and firm. W. A. B.: Only healthy scalps pro duce beautiful, abundant hair. You must keep your scalp clean by sham pooing as often as necessary. The following tonic will prove an unfail ing remedy for dandruff, itching scalp and falling hair: Stir one ounce of qulnzoin into H-pint alcohol, then add H-Pint cold water. Rub this tonic into the scalp about twice a week. It will do wonders for your diseased scalp, and make your thin, straggly hair thick, long and beautiful. Elsie S.: That sickly look you have besides your loss of energy and run down condition, are due to a sluggish, impure blood. Incident to the winter months. This Is very common, but la easily overcome by taking before meals a tablespoonf ul of this simple system tonic: In -pint alcohol dissolve one ounce kardene, adding -cup sugar and hot water to make a quart. This is a wonderful blood purifier and strength-restoring tonic. There is nothing like it for giving one rich, red blood, energy and good health. Belle: The reason your hair looks so dull and faded and is so hard to ar range is that you have made the usual mistake of shampooing with soap. Any woman who uses soap shampoos cannot expect to Have beautiful hair. It nay :5o SELF-REDUCING Elastic hip-confining bands of Lastikops Webbing produce ex treme reduction below the waist, with the modish in-slope, and per fect comfort, standing or seated: No. 319 Low bast j No. 321 Medium CORSETS ARE WORN Nemo Factory Bristol. England should be a table for every four guests and on each table a different game or contest should be arranged. The guests should be assigned to the tables in pairs. This can be conveniently ar ranged by marking the heart tallies for forgetfulness with table and couple numbers. Limit the time at each table to 15 minutes. After the allotted time Is up the players all change tables going either In fours or twos to an other table. If the tables change in couples, care must be taken that each player has an opportunity to play at each table. A little maneuvering of guests on the part of host or hostess will keep matters straight in this re spect. At the first table heart quoits can be played. In the center of the table fas ten a pin or hob, as it is called. A wooden skewer wound with red or pink paper and held upright on a square of cardboard with sealing wax would do. Bend wire into heart-shaped quoits, fasten the ends together with thread and wind the quoits with paper to match the hobs. The quoits should be two or three inches loi when fin-' ished. The guests sit about two feet from .the table and throw the quoits In turn. Each quoit over the hob counts one. The guests write their scores un slips of paper, sign their names and. when they change tables, give the slips to tiie hostess. MAE MARTYN. clean the hair, but does not remove the pore-dirt from the hair roots. Your hair becomes stringy and unmanage able in a few days and you wonder why. Let soap shampoOB alone and use a teaspoonful of canthrox dis solved In a cup of hot water for your shampoo, it you want your hair to dry evenly and quickly without streaking. Canthrox makes the hair very fluffy and bright and gives to the scalp a feeling of pleasing freshness. You will not catch cold if you shampoo with canthrox and will find It makes your hair look so very nice. J. M. C: Cutting the hairs only makes them come In heavier. Get an original package of delatone and with a little of the powder mix enough water to form a paste. Put this on the hairy surface and after two or three minutes rub off, wash the skin and every trace of hair will have vanished. Druggists charge a dollar an ounce for delatone, but it never fails to do the work. Mrs. V. G.: The woman who uses face powder not only Is behind the times, but does herself a personal In Jury. Face powder is only a mockery to beauty, as it clogs the skin pores, causing wrinkles and other complexion Ills. To have a perfect complexion, use a good lotion such as the following: Dissolve 4 ounces of spurmax in plnt witch hazel (or hot water), add ing .2 teaspoonfuls glycerine. This lo tion gives the skin a decidedly refined look of velvety smoothness. It re moves the shine, immediately corrects sallow, freckled complexions and does not come off in the wind like powder does or rub off easily when a veil is worn. This lotion is a 'splendid "beau tifler and skin whitener. S. D.: Yes, no factor Is more impor tant in a beautiful face than bright, clear, youthful eyes. You should use a good eye tonic. Get an ounce of crystos, dissolve it in a pint of water and use two or three drops in each eye daily. It will clear and strengthen your eyes, remove all signs of weak ness and inflammation and make them bright and sparkling. For weak, dull, expressionless eyes I think this tonic simply wonderful. It is very soothing, and is fine for those who wear glasses. Read Mrs. Martyn's book, "BeauOt" 5. Adv.