TIIE SFNDAT OREGOMAX. PORTLAND. JANUARY 21, 1912.
INNS OF DICKENS ARE RECALLED AT
CENTENARY OF FAMOUS NOVELIST
Enthusiastic Admirer Would Turn Every One Mentioned by Author Into "Dickens' Head" "Pickwick Paperi"
Alone Tell of 65 Taverns, 0 nly 12 of Which Now Remain.
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LOXLK'S. Jn. It". iSprclitl.) Thrre
wrelu frum now millions of Dick
rn dmlrers will rclebr&te the
cntnrr of the world's greatest nov
elist. It ia a of every man to
ht taste In the matter of celebration.
Come have already shown the Dickens
spirit tn Christmas philanthropy: oth
ers are founding: a fund In aid of Ave
of his jrrandchiidren who are tn pen
ury. But one Britinh admirer of
"Bos' Is engajted on a curious plan of
his own.
Charles Dickens, be pointed out re
cently, baa done more for the English
Innkeeper than any other man. and yet
he could not recall a single instance
of an Inn being; named after him. He
was therefore providlnr himself with
a iroodly supply of the Dickens stamps,
which were struck on In connection
lth thes centenary celebrations, and
his Intention was to affix one of the
eramptt to every Inn which possesses
Dlckcnsian associations. throughout
i:nsland. so that earn mlftht bear the
sicn of the "Dickens Head."
laae Hard Plae.
It Is a difficult matter enoiiRh even
to compile a list of Dickens Inns from
the novelist's writings, to Identify and
visit each one which survives at the
present time Is a stupendous task,
which la likely to keep the pilgrim
afoot for an Indefinite period.
The subject la a fascinating one.
however, and in view of the coming
centenary, when every nook and cran
ny associated with Dickens will doubt
less be recalled by this or that one f
his admirers. It may be useful to as
certain which of the most notable Inns
mentioned In his novels still exist and
where they may be found.
Thouah the desecrating; hand of the
vandalistie "Improver" is never idle,
many old Inns which have been Immor
talised by Dickens remain to the pres
ent day untouched and unspoiled, and
their number is probably a-reater than
Is commonly supposed. The majority,
however, have either entirely disap
peared or have been altered beyond
rrrocr.ltlon. Others have been con
verted Into private residences and one
or two. such as the Golden Cross, at
f'harins Cros. survive only In name,
the present licensed premises nt even
occupylne: the orlelnal site.
The old GoMn t'ross. which was the
chief coaching house ia the West tod
of London, as the Bull and Mouth was
In the city, stood further wet. on the
spot where one of Landseers famous
Hons keeps Kuard at the southeastern
corner of the Nelson column In Trafal
gar square. It mas from this famous
old Inn that tiie I'lckwlrklans set out
on their historic Journey. "Pickwick"
has been aptly described by Charles
G. Harper as "a very Odyssey of Inns
and travel." no fewer than SS taverns
in London and the provinces being
mentioned in Its pajros. Ho great,
however, have been the changes of the
past 70 years that only a dosen now
remain.
laaa Caste ma CbaaKre.
In London the sole survivors are the
frallerted Old George Inn called by
Dickens the White Hart In the Bor
ough High Street, where Hani Weller
was "boots"; Osborne's now styled
the Adelphi Hotel In John street.
Adelphlo, associated with the flight of
h.mlly nrdle and Snodgrass. and the
George and Vulture. In Ht. Michael's
alley. Lombard street, now better
known as Thomas' restaurant. At all
these establishra'Uits Dickens was a
frequent vi.-ltor. In the latter busy
city ti'iuse. penned In by towering of
fices, you may still enjoy a succulent
chop, served on one of famous old pew
ter plates, and drink ale from a pew
ter mug: but the traveler can no long
er rest his limbs for the night beneath
its hospitable roof.
White Horse Cellars. In ricadllly
where Mr. Pickwick waited for the
coach to Bath, has had a similar ex
perience to the Golden Cross. During
the coaching age the original inn was
removed from the site of the present
Kits Hotel to the comer of Albemarle
street, where it was replaced in 14
by the present Albemarle Hotel.- The
well-known Spaniard's Inn, on Hamp
stead Heath, whose rustic arbors are
the favorite resort of amorous couples
on bank holidays, is thriving as it was
in the days or Mrs. Bardell's arrest,
lea ef the Bnll t arhaaaed.
A delightful experience awaits the
pilzrim to Dickens' shrines when, fol
lowing in the train of the Plckwick
lans, he halts for the first time at the
Bull, Horhester. to whlrh the part
came at the close of their first day's
travel. It remains practically unal
tered and a plcajant old-world at
mosphere surrounds the plaqe, ever?
room in which seems peopled with
ghosts of tho past. The Joints and
sweets are still displayed to view be
hind the glass doors of the "Illustrious
larder" In the hall, and you may enter
the little ballroom In which those Im
mortal creations of the novelist Jostled
esch other In the crowded dance.
"So this Is where Mr. Pickwick is
supposed to have slept?" remarked a
visitor, when viewing bedroom No. 17,
by favor of a former landlord.
"That stranger meant no offence,"
pays the chronicler In telling the story,
"but the landlord was greatly ruffled.
"Supposed to have slept? He did sleep
here, sir!"
Wrights, st which "they charged
you more if you dined at a fr!en1's
than if you dined in the coffee-room."
also survive tn Rochester, the prem
ises described by Dickens being in the
rear of the old Crown. -the next Inn to
the Bull, fronting on the High street.
At Cobham we And the old Leather
Bottle (to which the amorous Tupman
resorted), still very much alive and
turning the advertisement given to It
by the novelist to excellent account.
Various additions have been- made to
the house. In which the Dickens room,
with Its collection of relics. Is a cen
ter of Interest. Beneath the swinging
sign of the Leather Bottle is a repre
sentation of Mr. Pickwick, who con
ferred such distinction on this rustic
"hotel.-
rrltlrlaaa Slakes Capital.
The Great White Horse, at Ipswich,
Is another Dickens house which con
tinues to make no small capital out of
the notice he bestowed upon It. al
though his description of the premises
was far from flattering. He first made
acquaintance with the inn In 18.10,
when, as a reporter for the Morning
Chronicle, he went down to Ipswich to
report a Parliamentary election.
"Few more severe thlnrs." says Mr.
Harper, the great authority on Eng
land's old coaching memories, "have
ever been said of an inn than those
Dickens said of the Great White
Horse. Yet, such is the irony of time
and circumatance. the house Dickens
so roundly attacked ia now eager In all
its advertisements to quite the Dick-
enslan associations and the adventures
of Mr. Pickwick In the double-bedded
room (now Identified as No. 36) and
the elderly lady In curl papers have
attracted more visitors than the un
favorable notice has turned away."
The large, plain building, standing
at a corner In the main street, remains
unaltered from the days of the novel
ist and the "stone statue of some rapa
cious animal, with flowing mane and
tail, distantly resembling an Insane
cart horse," still surmounts the portico.
The courtyard. however. has been
roofed in with glass and presents a
widely different scene from those of
the palmy days of coaching.
Maypole Is Interesting.
Three more Inns associated with
"I'ickwlck" are well worthy of mention,
hs tjiey remain practically unaltered.
These are the Bell, at Berkeley Heath,
on the high road between Bristol and
Uloucestar. where Mr. Pickwick and his
companions had lunch on their Journey
to Birmingham; the picturesque old
Hop Tole. at Tewkesbury, where they
stopped to dine -on the same occasion,
and the Saracen's Head (now styled
the Fomfrct Arms) at Toweester. where
Sam Wrller prevailed upon Mr. Pick
wick to remain for the night after a
long, wet drive from Coventry.
Of all the inns mentioned by Dickens
In his other novels, by far the most In
teresting is the Maypole In reality the
King's Head at Chlgwell. on the bord
ers of Epolng forest, endeared to all
readers of "Barnsby Rudge." Many
visitors to this pretty old house, facing
Chlgwell churchyard, have been pro
foundly disappointed on finding that It
fll short of the picturesque ideal con
jured up by Cattermole's illustration.
Yet the King's Head, with Its upper
story projecting on massive oak beams,
and a portrait of Charles I swinging ,
.1
from Ita Iron bracket. Is a delightful
Old World Inn. and is as well preserved
today as when Dickens added some
fsncy touches to its outlines.
The Coach and Horses inn at Peters
field, where Nicholas Nlcklcby and
Smike stayed on their long tramp from
London to Portsmonth, and the Coach
and Horses at Isleworth. mentioned In
"Oliver Twist." when Bill Sykea and
Oliver were on their way to commit a
burglary at Chertsey, are In similarly
good preservation.
The Blue Dragon, at which Martin
Chuzzlewlt and Mary put up, is a com
posite creation, combining features of
the George, at Amesbury, which Is
eight miles to the north of Salisbury,
and of the Green Dragon at Alderbury.
three miles to the south: both of which
still flourish.
tepa Preve Surprise.
The George is a substantial and im
posing old hostelry, and ignores the
pretensions of Its humbler rival to have
any share in the picture. A room Is
pointed out to the visitor ss old Martin
Chuszlewlt's bedroom, though It pos
sesses only one instead of "the two
steps on the inside so exquisitely unex
pected that strangers, despite the most
elaborate cautioning, uruslly dived in
head first, as into a plunge bath."
Half a mile from Alderbury Is St.
Marv's Grange, n red brick bulldlntr
locally reputed to be the original of I
Mr. .FeokxnlfT s house.
At Canterbury is an antiquated inn.
with red tiled roof and projecting upper
story, which Is said to be the original
little Inn patronized by Mr. Micaw
ber. The Deadlock Arms, of "Bleak
House," has been Identified with the
Sondes Arms at Rockingham. The
Three Jolly Bargemen, of "Great Kx
pectatlons," is supposed to be the
Horseshoe and Castle, a little boarded
Inn at Cooling; and the Red Lion at
Henley claims to be the up-river Inn
mentioned In "Our Mutual Friend
where Lizzie drags the half-conscious
rayburn on to the lawn.
An old weather-boarded Inn. whose
sign Is of unknown antiquity. Is the
Crispin and Crlsplanus at Strood, men
tioned in "The Uncommercial Trav
eler" as a house at which tramping
tinkers and itinerant clock-makers
put up. The sign is named after two
Roman brothers, who were martyred
after embracing Christianity, and is
supposed to have been one .of the 'many
religious lnn-slgns designed to attract
tho custom of thirsty wayfarers to
Becket's shrine.
Ship aad Lobster Shown.
Standing on a raised bank of stones
by the rtver-slde below Gravesend Is
the Ship and Lobster, whose dismal
situation was chosen by Dickens, in
"Great Expectations." as a fitting site
for the Inn at which Pip and Mag
witch stayed when the former was en
deavoring to smuggle the convict out
of the country.
The ardent admirer of Dickens prob
ably will not rest content with a list
of the surviving Inns' mentioned In
his novels, but will wish to know
something of the houses at which he
stayed himself In his reporting days,
during his tours with "Phiz." and on
sundry other occasions. At the Sara
cen's Head. Bath, the landlord will
show interested visitors not only the
room, but the very four-poster in
which Dickens slept when, as a young
reporter In 1835. he stayed at the Inn
and was assigned a humble apartment
In the rear of the premises.
At Eaton Socon. in Hunts. Is the
Great White Horse Inn, where Dick
ens and "Phiz" put up when the nov
elist was collecting materials for
"Nicholas Nlckleby." and the Unicorn
Inn, at Bowes. Is indicated as the
house where Dickens met Shaw, the
schoolmaster, from whose peculiari
ties he drew the character of Squeers.
When visiting Shrewsburg. Dickens
and "Phiz" stayed at the Lion, or more I
strictly speaking, in its annex, now a j
private house; but it still projects over j
the pavement, resembling the now o
a vessel, as described In a letter by
Dickens to his eldest daughter.
Jack Straw s Castle, on Hampstcad
Heath, has an interesting association
with the novelist, as it was a favor
ite resort of his when he took a walk
across the Heath witn nis inena
Forster. A modern front has now re
placed tl e bow-windows.- which for
merly redeemed the middle portion o
the premises from total ugliness. Now
adays It is the resort or "pngs tn
training.
DRAMA AFFORDED LONDON THEATER
GOERS WITHIN AND WITHOUT DOORS
Comedy and Pathos Mingled in Street Performances to Amuse line of Those Waiting for Play to Begin "Do'wa
and Outs" of Better Days and Shams Partake in Hunt for Coppers.
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Library Notes
THE course of lectures on cnnaren a
literature to be given at the East
Portland Branch Library this week by
Miss Edna Lyman, will be as follows:
January 22. at 8 o'clock The relation
of the book to the mental stages of
the child's development
January 23, at 8 o clock Books for
the cultivation of the Imagination
poetry, fairy tales and myths.
January 24, at 4 o'clock Bible sto
ries.
January 25, at 8 o'clock Hero sto
ries and the classics.
January 26. at 8 o'clock Humor and
fiction.
The Wednesday evening lecture by
President Foster on "Modern English
Prose Writers" will be given as usual
January 24.
Father O Hara wll give his next lec
ture on the "Critical Period of Roman
History." Tuesday evening. January 30.
Tickets have been Issued for all these
lectures and seats will be reserved un
til ten minutes before the lectures
begin.
The first lecture of the civic course
will be given Monday evening. January
29, in the East Portland Branch LI
brary. The subject Is "Reed College.'
and the lecture will be given by Presi
dent Foster. He will discuss the sig
nificance of the founding of a col
lege of liberal arts tn the City of
Portland1. The lecture will be illus
trated by 60 new lantern views show
Ing plans for tho development of cam
pus and buildings. Tickets may be
obtained at the reference desk of the
central library or at any of the
branches.
2000 VISIT LENTS SCHOOL
New Buildins Inspected After Big
Public Iteceptlon Programme.
The reception for the public held
Friday afternoon at the new school
house at Lents wss attended by not less
than 2000 persons during the afternoon,
beginning at 12J50 o'clock and continu
ing until dark. More than 800 persons
listened to the programme in the as
sembly hall, and many were not able
to get into the hall. The address was
delivered by A. F. Hershner, principal,
who said the fine building was provided
by the Portland district. He Invited
the visitors to Inspect the building and
especially the school work. Mrs. Fred
L Olsen, Miss Ransom and Miss Keller,
of Portland, furnished the music Drills
and songs by the children were among
the most interesting features of the
programme. Handiwork of the boys
from the manual training department
attracted much attention.
The Lents school house cost $30,000.
It contains 24,000 square feet of floor
space -and hag seven exits. There are
40 sanitary drinking fountains, and hot
BY L. G. HARDING.
I ON DON. Jan. 20. (Special.) Thej
dramatic season Is now In full
swing In London, and from a score
of theaters long queues of theater
goers proclaim nightly, according to
th Ingeniously devised custom of wily
London managers, the comparative
popularity of the. piece within.
Tho theater-queue is not unknown
of course, in America. Bostonians,
whose real or pretended penury can
not quench their omnivorous cravinfr
for art, have made it an institution
Earnest music lovers begin to gather
for the Boston Symphony's 25-cent gal
lery by 10 and 11 o'clock of a morn
Ing. A spell of Shakespeare or Irish
players or the stellar attraction of a
great name on the boards provokes
the appearance of the same weary
snake line in ull the big transatlantic
theatrical centers.
Pale young men prod the corners of
open books Into the backs of women
of doubtful age munching chocolate,
an interesting foreigner talks loudly
about Hall Calne and knits his brows
thoughtfully over the future of th
English speaking stage, college stu
dents lean against the wall with os
tentatious unconcern and the doors
don't open for an hour yet, worse luck.
London Queue Are Mifhtlj.
In London, however, this sort of
thing Is a daily or rather nightly oc
currence. Here It is not the desire of
a manager to give fair play for a spe
cial attraction at his theater by pre
venting leisured folk from buying out
all the seats in the "celestial balcony"
beforehand. It Is a frank device he
adopts to advertise his attraction; for
many a London playgoer, unhappily
for the critics, thinks more of a long
queue, which he can see. than he does
of a long criticism, which he may not
understand.
' Thus it is that the luckless, the eco
nomical, or the Bohemian playlover. re
gardless of the cold, winds his nightly
length around the corners and up the
alleys of the big London theaters and
variety halls. And thus it is that while
he is waiting unsuspecting and unable
to get away, the street artist comes
nd preys upon him there. It Is about
this street artist, who is more redol
ent of London than any type which
has yet filled my American eyes, that
I wish to tell. j
Street Artlntn All of Trofesh'."
I would ask you to understand the
term street artist In the catholic sense,
which takes in so generously all mem
bers of the "profesh." While we pe
nurious Mahornets wait our entrance
on the ailmes. the mimes come to us
in the persons of this ragged troupe.
but a troupe savoring strongly of its
old kinship. Outside His Majesty s.
where Sir Herbert Tree's productions
draw one of the most enviable queues
n London nightly for the practice of
the street artist fraternity, there comes
occasionally one of the actors we read
bout, but seldom see. Tall and stately.
with long black hair, and Just enough
of the threadbare appearance to lend
the look of decline to his dignity, he
takes the center of his out-door stage
for a vigorous recital from the master
the crowd is anticipating within. He
recites the more declamatory passages
from Richard III. for instance, with a
generosity of voice and gesture that
pulckly attracts a crowd from the
shopping thoroughfare of Haymarket.
Moved by his audience, he never falls
to include a likely member or so In the
plav which grows In fancy round him.
This lie did the other night with
ind cold water. The building is wired t almost disastrous results. He was
for electric clocks and signal buttons
from each class room to the principal's
office. A rest room is provided for the
teachers, a dining-room with kitchen,
cupboards and electric plates. The
building Is heated by seven furnaces
and two electric fans. It has one of
the best equipped manual training
rooms of any building in the Portland
district
showing the crowd how Sir Herbert
would have played Macbeth had he
lived when "there were actors." and
reached the end of a glowing recita
tion of the murder scene Just as a
brawny laborer strolled up to the
crowd bearing a huge saw. Straight
way the aged Thespian saw him. waved
a menacing hand in his direction and
thundered the words, "How now, thou
cream-faced loon, wnere gottest thou
that goose-look?"
The man with the saw did not see
that way. He returned with a string
of Invective which considerably im
proved on Shapespeare, and advanced
menacingly with the saw. The brav
Macbeth was for combat, but Just the
the doors opened, and the crowd filed
in. A regrettable mercenary spirit over
came his fustian courage and he turned
his back on his challenger to wal
along the queue, hat In hand, acknowl
edging pennies with an enviable a
and the words. "You have my thanks
sir:" "I am most grateful, madam
The variety of . these performers is
positively endless. They are of all ages
and all qualifications and all deserts,
There are little boys who sing popula
songs In piping voice, there are elderly
swindlers who sing the most stupi
songs in a guttural and tuneless voice
there are family parties, who accam
pany papa variously on the fife, th
mouth organ, the accordion or the
street piano. Shameless imposters with
a brazenly silly stunt reap a harvest
of coins from the shallow members of
the crowd, while a turn of real merit
not quite alert enough about the col
lection, gets off with a fraction as
much. Human nature clings close
round it all.
On this point of the collection, every
body who has seen these London stree
singers must call to mind many pitiful
ly amusing occasions of it. I once
heard a middle-aged woman, who was
clearly up against it. singing a love
ballad in the business district with
voice of no little melody. On her top
note, the sound of a penny rang sharp
lv on the pavement. Like a flash she
left her top note where it was and
pursued the penny, but alas! the coin
rolled with maddening nicety straight
through a grating, almost under her
clawing fingers. She didn't resume her
song.
Collection Is Everything;.
Another man. who sings "Rocked in
the Cradle of the Deep" nightly
through Bloomsbury, has the curious
humor of cutting his song off as with
knife at the welcome sound 01
falling coin and picking it up again
on tiie same note when he has fum
bled for the copper successfully along
the gutter. All the singers outside the
theaters make a most sorry "cut" in
their performance if they think the
fateful doors will open before they
can have properly "squeezed th
crowd.
Among the "cocked-liat" performers
one elderly man still lingers on from
greater days. The cocked-hat perform
ers 'exhibit themselves, of course, as a
whole wax-works museum of celebri
ties, with the aid of "this simple piece
of black felt; gentlemen." Napoleon,
Nelson. Roosevelt. Christabel I'ank
hurst are successfully given and the
bandit, the cavalier and soldier duly
appreciated. This performer became
famous during the Boer war for his
presentation of Oom Paul, the pet aver
slon of the British masses at the time.
A less ingenious man would have been
puzzled by the difficulty of reproduc
ing Oom Paul's tall hat with limp
felt, but our friend stopped and said
earnestly to his audience: "You will
forgive me if I show you Mr. Krugcr
as 1 last saw him on the veldt: he worn
a magnificent sombrero of American
manufacture" and, donning the same,
with a splendid set of whiskers, he
doubled his collection.
(hildrra Take Collection.
Suppose we are waiting outside a
theater before such an informal per
formance as occurs, say, up the "gal
lery alley" beside the Garrick. where
the American-made success, "Kismet,"
is running into this season from its
fine success of last. A tired-looking
woman is there with a zither when We
arrive, playing to a straggling and in
attentive line of about 20 persons and
singing in a fearful voice. She is ac
companied by a tot of about 10, who
collects the pennies a precocious ,
child, who peers pertly Into all the
faces of her prospective contributors
and pipes: I'Aw sy. It's wuth a penny,
ain't it?" The pair soon go; they must
"do" other queues this night, and there
comes on a marvelous boy contortion
ist, a jolly little chap with frank blue
eyes and a most spillery spine. Ho
smiles when you give him a penny,
and you feel it's worth it, for he can
smile much better than ho can wrig
gle. Ah! the principals are coming on
now. A shabby-genteel man in a
greeny-black frock coat, is pouring
forth fine, broad Shakespeare of the
old, spacious style, and the readers In
the line, the chattering shopgirls on
your left, the voluble matinee-goer,
who has been regaling us with stories
from Lewis Waller's private life, are
all attention. He stands at the corner
just where the queue winds round onto
the street, and the little crowd of pass
ersby who gather to listen, stretch out
Into the street and begin to block the
traffic. A cop appears, approaches 'the
unconscious author of the dislocation
and remonstrates with him. The actor
looks haughtily at his questioner and
remarks: "1 am here by the special
permission of Forbes-Robertson,"
which visibly Impresses the policeman
Dignity Held Through All,
. Bowing stiffly, however, the artist
seizes the opportunity of making the
collection, then turns, with the coins
Jingling . in his frayed silk tile, and
says, in a manner to which one must
be born: "Ladies and gentlemen, I
hope you will enjoy the performance
very much."
Then there comes a young man of ar
tistic face, accompanied by a friend,
who wheels a hurdy-gurdy into posl-
tion. He is thin and rather emaciated
in appearance, this young fellow, but
has large eyes and a really sonorous
and powerful voice. His song ends In
a fit of coughing, whereupon a well-
dressed woman steps out from the
line and has a long and sympathetic
talk with the pair, which ends in the
taking of an address.
The one for whom he makes way Is
violinist, and an uncommonly good
one. o! ho doesn t need to wear that
ragged coat and that long face any
more than the artists we shall see in
side. He confessed to me the other
day that the game was a paying one.
Ho had been to three theaters before
he came to the one where I was a
shiverer in the queue and the money
he had collected made his pockets
bulge.
Boy Rises to Prominence.
But some of them, though good, are
not. too flourishing. David Erskine.
a ragged waif with a violin, was one of
these queue amusers till last year.
Then be came out on top in a news
paper competition for the best street
returns, was offered a contract on the
halls, and blossomed out in a week
into a full-blown artist, with an agent
and all the rest of it. Since then he
plays in the marble halls of the mighty
still clad in his queue performing rags.
but his fiddle is a rich-toned beauty
presented to him by Kuhelik and his
patrons have included the-Ivaiser Wil-lielin.
These street performers are the
keenest of all London's residents for
renting a nev, success. Just now Mrs.
atrick Campbell s acting of tho part
of the heartless wife in "Bella Don-
' at the St. James Theater is the
lodestone that is attracting the biggest
ueue and great is the pressure of per-
ormers outside that playhouse o
ights. As to the halls, there is al
ways a crowd where lona. tiie ltmsion-
st. is appearing, partly because she is
wonderful artiste and partly because
f her pet bear that strolls along with
er in her walks abroad. Indeed, so
reat has been the pressure to sec the
pair outside the theater that the au
thorities have asked the actress to
xercise. iter pet in more secluded
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