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TITE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN. PORTLAND, JANUARY 14," 1912.
ORNAMENT IN HAIR IS INVARIABLY
WORN BY SMART DRESSERS THIS YEAR
Adornment in Tresses to Match Gowns Is Considered Completion of Costume in Fasihonable Sjt Sweeping
Aigrette at the Side Is Often Worn.
HARMONY IN BEDROOM COLORS
IS ESSENTIAL . TO COMPLETE REST
Quiet Tones ia Shades Which Are Most Pleasing to Individual Should Be Selected Gray Tints, if Worked Into
Scheme of Decoration, Are Said to Give Repose.
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RT LAI-RA BAUWIIf DOOLITTLE.
RCDROOMS r so often put makl
as belns of Uttla Importance in
a- the home-furnlehlna- echeme. Too
often hear. "Oh. we"U put that in one
of the bedrooms: It doe not matter.
while the fact U we pass at least
one-third of oar lives hi onr bedrooms,
and when the peycholorr of color Is
thoroughly understood, the Importance
if surrounding- ourselTrs with the best
environment when we go to sleep and
iwaken In harmonious surroundings
will chance this attitude, and we will
then Insist upon everything- being;
chosen with the greatest forethought.
It Is not luxury or expense that 1
necessary, bat harmony, and spell Har
mony with a' capital H. First of all
the harmony of color, for color affects
the nerves and the iteneral health more
than Is commonly supposed. The psy
rholniry of color Is a study that ia In
pteted upon In the schools for interior
decoration and house-furnlshlnfrs. and
all the lectures must be attended la
order to secure a diploma. The Im
portance of color harmony is thus
brought before all students, and when
one reads the numerous articles writ
ten by speclalista on nerve troubles It
Is seen then that there Is a reason,
and a good one. for the demand for
clentiflc knowledge of(Color values.
Faveelt Color Beat.
It Is always advisable to use the
color one loves, but (which Is a fairly
accurate test for Individual color har
mony) In the bedroom when possible.
It gives greater reat and repose. Every
Individual has his own color: for in
stance, a woman whose eyes and hair
are brown will nearly always like blue
and cardinal-red. which Is orange, the
"mplementary color of blue and white.
The woman who Is known ss the ah
blonde will take to all the violet tones,
especially those running to a pink
violet or lavender, and so through all
the gamut of color. With this hint as
to color, proceed to make of your bed
room something cheerful and bright. I
do not mean bright, crude colors, for
brightness Is an atmosphere that can
be produced with the softest colors.
In last week's article I suggested
that all the chambers of a small house
be tinted gray, and most men will Im
mediately say: "Oh, I don"t like gray:
It s too cold and dismal." Oranted, a
dark steel-blue grsy Is. and no one
could make a bright room with waits
of that color, but there is gray and
gray, and a warm, light French gray
is lust the color of a wild duck's breast
or a pigeon's wing.
Take a small bedroom and have the
walla a very light yellow-gray, and
tien enamel or paint the woodwork a
shade or two darker mind you, I say
the walls a light gray, and that means
a pastel shade, Just a few tones darker
than the natural walls. This will make
the room look much larger and be a
good background for other things. Let
i: say the room is a north one: thus
we will want to use yellow In It to
iiimulate sunshine. Then comes the
dearest little cut-out borders In small
trllow rjf, which ran be used on
t ie tinted walla and more than pay
for the added expense In the beauty
of the room. Any woman can pnt them
on herself, for the border can be cut
In small sections, to be handled easily,
and then with some good floor pasta,
presto, we have a decorated room of
which to be proud.
t releases et Kspeaalve.
Cretonnes to match these borders
come In very Inexpensive qualities.
Good Imported onea. it Inches wide,
can be bought for less than II. It is
economy, though, to be sure of the
quality of cretonne to know It will
wash and iron and will not fade. I
never advise any woman Investing
money tn any other kind of bedroom
hangings than those that are guaran
teed, for In a bedroom It la necessary
to keep all clean and sweet for sani
tary reasons.
Well, to go back to our gray and
ysllow'room: Use a small gilt picture
molding; when possible, and If one
cares for brass beds one would look
well In thla room. The rest of the
furniture would be very pretty In gray
enamel, and if one can paint then a
little touch of yellow In the design
a small spray of yellow roaes or a
Louis VXI basket with yellow rosea
painted on the dressing ease drawers
add such an Individual touch. I would
use whits dotted swIss curtains, or
white thin muslin ones, and over them
the draperlee of cretonnes. The bed
spread will ba very pretty If the
cretonne has a ruffle of the swlss. A
willow or reedcraft ohaJr or two with
cushions made of the cretonne In pll-low-slips
style, with patent fasteners,
so they can ba removed and washed.
Is appropriate.
Then for the top of the dresser and
dressing table I am using a plats of
glaas cut the same stse, and under this
you can nse the cretonne. In this room
ths toilet articles should not bs silver:
ass Ivory, celluloid or gold. A woman
asked me the other day what to use
with her blrdseye maple set. since her
silver articles seemed to be out of
harmony, and I gave her the same ad
vice, and. by the way. a blrdseye maple
suite looks so well In a yellow and
gray room. The rug ahould be gray,
with a touch of yellow. Gray rugs can
be made so easily for this room. If ons
Answers to Correspondents
BT LILIAN TTNOLE.
PORTLAND. Or.. Jan. 10 Will too stee
ly sl. throosh The Bsnday Oregonlaa. a
method for canning elama ml Hood and
whole. We are eo fond of them and mlee
them so much when they are not obtainable
ta the market. I tried canning them once.
w ot anceesafuL 1 sporeclsie your
artlclee la The Sunday Oresotnan so much.
sad feel quite proud or my cooa-ooos mo
n of eilnnrBes from the same. 1 have
aerer had a failure whoa your directions
were followed. Tnansing you in ovuo
snd taoplne yos wU fiad It eonrenient to
answer seoo, 1 am, MRS. A. M. B.
CAXMNG all sorts of meats and fish
requires more care and time In
cooking than fruit canning does.
since the former materials decompose
more easily than fruits and have not
ths adds which tend to discourage the
sctlvlty of micro-organisms. The cans
must be carefully sterilised before the
clams are put In. Not less than t hours
steaming In the cana will ba necessary
for minced clams. Longer time should
bs given for whole clams. The Jars
should be tightly packed with the
cleaned and minced clams, seasoned
with pepper and salt. Fill up ths Jars
with cold water or with clam broth
from other clams. Adjust the covers.
according to the kind of Jar used, and
team In -C regular steamer or In a
wash boiler with a rack. If tba ma
terial tends to shrink mora than you
like to sea. you may secure full Jars as
follows: When half cooked remove the
cans to a table, open and drain off some
of the liquid, then fill up ths cans with
,h solid meat from one or two. Read-
Just the lids and return to the steamer
for tWO lO SOUr owwia. H.uiuifi fcv
wh.ther minced or whole clams ars
used. An extra precaution for safety
la to uss what is called "Intermittent
sterilisation." In thla caso the cans
are ateamed for a shorter period, say
ons and one-half hours, every day for
several days not less than three and
preferably four. The Idea la that
enough heat Is applied to kill all
does not care to go to greater expense.
And another thing: If a woman haa
several Tlecea of old furniture of dif
ferent woods and colorings, she can
scrape them and enamel and make of
them a Joy Instead of an eyesore. It
all takes work, but nothing In this
world worth having conies on "easy
street." and to make over something
that appears useless and that has been
discarded is worth one's while, and in
nothing else is there greater possi
bilities for the womsn of small means
than in doing over her old furniture,
making of It a "thing of beauty and
a Joy forever," since In no other place
In the house is there the possiouity
there is in doing over our bedrooms.
Do not use a rug that is wrong In
color In a bedroom. Rather than that
dye the rags the right color and have
your rugs woven. It only costs 7S
cents for the weaving of a rug x6
feet, and if one cannot afford hard
wood floors, paint and shellao will do.
For Instance. In this gray room. If the
floors are bad, paint them the same
abade of gray and then shellao and
rub down and you will have a beauti
ful floor, and then have your rugs
nearly all yellow, with Just a touch
of gray and a strip of white In the
border. '
In a room wliere you paint the floor
gray have the celling a warm wing
or green-cream color, but when the
floor Is hardwood keep the celling al
most the esme shade as the walls. Do
not keep to the old way of making
celling such striking contrasts to your
walls.
yeasts, molds and growing bacteria.
The spores, however, will resist condi
tions fatal-, to developed bacteria. By
letting the cans stsnd while you give
a chance for the spores to develop,
if any are present; and then you again
apply the fatal temperature. Time is
counted from the beginning of boiling.
If a wash boiler Is used the tempera
ture should be raised slowly to boiling
point, starting with cans surrounded
with cold water. With care aa to
sterilisation there is no reason why
you should not be successful this time.
I am glad you find this column useful.
o
Portland. Or.. Jan. . 10. Klnrtly give
recipe for gcotch shortbread. MRS. 8.
The regular "old-fashioned" recipe
of tradition rails for materials by
.weight. "Twice ss much butter ss
sugar and twice aa much flour as but
ter." No liquid, no leavening, no fla
voring. The materials were all knead
ed together, on a board, beginning with
the butter and sugar and gradually
taking In the flour. This called for
quite a little dexterity in handling.
Modern Scottish cooks, however, are
inclined to take "short cuts." as for
Instance creaming the butter and sugar
as for cake, then adding flour, first by
beating, later by kneading. American
testes usually prefer rather more sugar
than the old rule calls for. Too much
sugsr, however, makes the shortbread
hard Instead of melting. When bread
flour Is used the addition of a little
cornstarch, potato flour or rice flour
is often an Improvement. Slow baking
Is essential, not only to preserve the
shape of the shortbread pieces, but also
to develop the characteristic flavor
caused by the slow caramelisatlon of
the sugar with the butter. You might
try the following. If not quite what
you wanted, let me know and I will
give you another formula:
Shortbread Three-fourths cup sifted
sugar (very fine granulated or confec
tioners' sugar is best). 1 cup butter,
14 cups sifted cake flour. Beat the
softened butter to a cream with the
sugar, but be very csreful only to
often, not to oil It, or both the tex
ture and the flavor of the shortbread
will suffer. Sift In the flour, gradu
ally, until no more can be mixed with
a spoon, then turn on the floured
board and knaad In the rest until you
have a rather stiff paste very smooth
and silky texture. With some kinds of
flour a very little more than 114 cups
may bo needed; with other flour you
may not be able to work In quite 3M
cups. But do your best.' There Is a
certain knack In handling the dough,
to prevent it sticking or breaking and
to leave a perfectly smooth surface and
clean board, which cannot be Imparted
through printed directions. Tou may
form the paste into a long narrow roll
and cut 2-inch pieces of It, flattening
them allghtly and pricking with a fork,
or you may shape it Into round "pat-a-cakes."
crimping the edges with your
thumb and finger and cutting it. If thin.
Into triangular "pie-shaped'" pieces, or.
If thick, baking It in one cake, to ba
broken after baking. Place on an un
greased baking pan and bake In a
slow oven until slightly golden (not
really brown) all over. The faint yel
lowish brownish tinge should extend
all through the shortbread's thickness.
If It hss been thoroughly kneaded and
cooked. "Hurry-up methods" result In
poor flavor and toughness or dryness.
a
Portland. Or.. Jan. 11. I would like a
recipe for soft ginger cookies, also for cream
salad dreaslng. MRS. D. P. P.
Boft ginger cookies Two-thirds cup
shortening butter, or half butter and
half lard. If eome of the less watery
patent shortenings are used slightly re
duce this proportion; 2-3 cup boiling
water. 1 pint molasses. 1 level teaspoon
soda If the molasses Is mild, or 2 tea
spoons sods, if strong: 1 level table
spoon ginger. 1 teaspoon cinnamon, H
a teaspoon salt, flour to make a "drop
batter." More or less spice may be
used to taste. A little grated lemon
or orange rind Is nice In place of the
cinnamon. Melt the shortening in the
hot water, add the molasses, then the
other ingredients sifted together. Drop
rrom the spoon on a greased pan. some
distance apart, as they will spread.
Bake In a moderate oven.
Cream salad dressing One cup whip
ping cream, or sour cream according
to taste and circumstances, 14 tea
spoon salt or more If for a savory
salad: t to 4 tablespoons lemon Juice,
according to whether sweet or sour
cream Is used and whether the dressing
Is for a 'flat" or an already slightly
acid salad, such as one containing
orange or tart apples. Beat until firm
adding the acid gradually. For savory
salads a little cayenne, mustard or pa
prika might be added, but these would,
of course, be unsuitable for a salad of
sweet fruits such as usually take a
cream dressing. -A highly seasoned
savory cream dressing can, however,
be used for some savory salads in place
of mayonnaise where olive is not liked.
It does not, of course, keep well and
must bs added Just before serving.
Portland. Or.. Jan. 11. Pleaaa give recipe
for oerman swleback. MRS. 8. C.
Zwieback Two cups scalded and
cooled milk. 1 yeast cake softened In
H cup lukewarm water, i cup butter,
H cup sugar. 3 eggs, flour as for
bread. A little aniseed of cardamom
flavoring Is sometimes used. Make a
sponge and mix like bread or rather
like coffee cake. wnen resuy
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and let rise again to double bulk. Bake
about 60 minutes, wnen com cut mi
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ulcb rw
In a very slow oven browning only
slightly. Another variety of zwieback
Is obtained by drying slices or sponge
cake flavored with aniseed or carda
mom.
Menus for One
Week
Tuesday.
Cream of oarrot soup
Casserole of veal with rice balls
Scalloped tomatoes
T ........ S.I-,
Hot apple sploe cakea with maple sauce
loiiee
Wednesday.
v 4n hroth
Roast pork' Brown sweet potatoes
Glased onions Appia
Fruit salad, French dreaslng
Bait nut-wafers
Coffee
TbaraoVay.
Breaded chops potatoes au era tin
Baked squash
Oranse salad
Caramel pudding
Coffee
Friday
Potato soup
Baked lentils in Spanish sauos
Rlc border
Cauliflower au gratrn
. Cookies Jellied fruits with cresra
Coffee
Saturday.
Oyster plant soup
v.nliah baefateak ole or pudding
Bakad ahoeetMns potatoea Brussels sprouts
atercrnaa aataa
Devonshire Junket
Coffee
Sunday.
Tomato bouillon
Baked ham Southern style
Sweat potatoes Creamed celery
Apple nut and prune salad
Chocolate charlotte
Coffee
Monday.
Lima bean soup
Beef loaf Brown sauce
Brown potatoes Scalloped oyster plant
orange eaiaa
Baked apple dumplings
Coffee
CUT OF STEW PARISIAX FOOT
POPl'LAR VOTE
OK SEW YORK WOMEX.
New Gaiter-Boot.
Th prettiest shoe for women
brought out In years is th dain
ty new gaiter boot, which is
creating a sensation in Paris and
New York. These boots, because
of their pattern, make the foot
look tiny, and women have taken
them up with enthusiasm ac
cordingly. Th boot Is of patent
leather, with a gaiter top of light
tan cloth, and the buttons are the
flat rivet sort that emphasize the
gaiter suggestion. A very light
sole and Louis heel add to the
dainty lines and the dressy ap
pearance of the boot. The boot is
often made with a Cuban heel for
more general street wear.
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IT IS considered quite "undressed"
now to appear with absolutely on
decorated tresses. The ornament
may be only a band of ribbon, or it
may bo an elaborate coiffure cap with
LATE WINTER FESTIVITIES MARKED
BY GREAT POPULARITY OF DANCING
Craze Extends Prom Debutantes and College Youths Even to Staid Matrons and Old Bachelors Costumes Made
So That They May Be Suitable for Dancing as Well as Tor Other Purposes.
EVERYTHING ends with a danoe
this Winter, whatever It begins
with. Dancing is the craze, and
not only the debutantes and the college
youths indulge In It, but even the ma
trons and the old bachelors, who used
to bs the despair of hostesses In this
respect, are taking part in cotillions
and tripping the 'night fantastic" aa
though they thoroughly enjoyed it. aji
this Terpslchorean Interest had its ef
fect upon oostume, of course, and every
dinner gown, even though provided with
a stately train, is so contrived that it
may bs danced In, later In the evening.
The society columns of the Sunday
papers are crowded with aocounts of
recent cotillions, costume balls, dinner
dances and "assemblies" which Is a
more oolite name for ball and witn
Information of more affairs of the kind
to come. Some of the dancing frocks
worn at the assemblies and at tne
Junior cotillions which are given for
tha vounger set have brought out the
most delectable little dancing frocks,
Just wisps of airy chiffon or lace,
straight and narrow as to skirt, short
waisted and babyish as to bodice, but
one must confess extremely sophisti
cated as to decolletage.
Girlish Frocks Low 1st Back.
Even the debutante in her teens
nn aha is fairly "out." wears her
evenina- frock V'd halfway to the waist
line at the back and lined with flesh-
colored chiffon or tulle throughout tne
bodice, so that an almost starmngjy
decolette effect is suggested. These
girlish dancing frocks aro usually cut
to escape the floor, inouga tne bkuio
are not as short as they were a season
or two ago. The soft, thin material of
the skirt, however, and the absence of
any petticoat, save perhaps a single
scant frill of lace about the ankles,
makes It easy to lift and hold the
skirt during the dance; and Just now
there Is a fad for high-heeled satin
boots, buttoned high about the ankle
like a street boot, with dancing cos
tumes. These boots are of course very
itaintv affairs with Darer-thln soles.
curved French heels and little pointed
toes, and they look very pretty on tne
flying feet. There are also strsp-boots
with slashes cut across the instep to
show the stocking through and these
buttoned strap boots are richly em
broidered on toe and Instep with crys
tal beads and tiny rhinestones.
Trains of All fCUda.
The dinner gown has always a train.
though this season very queer looking
aoDendages on the backs of skirts are
dignified by the name of "train." The
train may drag in one point, or in two.
or even In three; it may be a square
tab like an outspread silk handkerchief
ninned to the skirt edge; It may he
rounded like the tall of a seal; or It
av be attached at the side or tne
skirt and give the effect of a bit of
drapery ripped offand dragging beslds
the costume. Some of the skirts are
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ORNAMENTS IN SAIR NOW WORN.
a sweeping aigrette at the side, but it
completes the costume satisfactorily.
With this evening gown of pink chiffon
the hair is banded with pearls, a long
string of pearls being doubled around
the head and held at either side with.
bordered with fringe which clings to
the carpet and pulls the soft skirt Into
clinging, graceful lines about the
limbs. Dancing skirts also have fringe
at the edge of knee-length tunics, the
fringe falling over a Jupe of satin, or
even over a transparent hem of chiffon
so that the effect, when the wearer
dances. Is very "revealing," as the
French say.
Over these clinging skirts with their
diminutive trains are wrapped the huge,
luxurious evening wraps and the effect
Is really very graceful, as well as in
expressibly smart. There is no prom
ise of wider petticoats on the sartorial
horizon, and as a matter of tact, wo
men would not welcome such a
prophesy.
Slashed Skirt In Vogue.
Tbe narrow skirts are becoming, they
are classically graceful, and they do
afford infinite possibility for the rev
elationone would rather not say dis
play of a pretty foot and ankle, pret
tily clad. Even the afternoon gowns
of velvet, satin and other sumptuous
materials have trailing skirts, and
often the skirt Is slashed several
Inches in front so that the foot, even
when not in evidence as its owner
walks or moves about In an ordinary
manner is revealed when she steps Into
or out of her limousine, or descends a
flight of stairs. The tunics on many ol
these gowns open in front to show a
panel of Oriental embroidery or me
tallic lace, the lower edges of the tunic
being caught together and weighted
over the panel, so that the skirt drags
In against the knees by the pull of its
train at the back. A beautiful stage
gown of the Winter has one of these
panels of gold lace with a tunic of olive
brown permo fabric caught over It at
the bottom, the Joined points of the
tunic being weighted with an ornament
of gold cord with gold fringe below.
The skirt is a narrow affair of olive
brown satin, slashed at the front and
having a three-cornered train at the
back. When Its wearer walks, it clings
at the knee in mermaid-like effect that
is wonderfully graceful.
Brown Popolar Color.
Much brown is used for ceremoni
ous costumes work by daylight, and all
this brown Is light and golden, or olive
in tone, with trimmings of fur and
dull gold lace; and with here and there
touches of vivid Oriental embroidery.
Prunes, plums and similar shades are
also coming strongly to the fore, since
these shades are much fancied In Paris
now, but all fashionable costumes for
afternoon functions are rather subdued
in coloring with metallic effects veiled
with dark chiffons, and laces in creamy
tone rather than pure white. At the
morning muslcales which are very
smart affairs Indeed, and which are
held n private suites in the exclusive
hotels, correct tailored wear Is worn,
and the tailored costume may be of any
material from serge to velvet, pro
vided It is correct In every detail and
la nccomoanled by a chic hat, hand
some furs and dainty gloves and boots. ,
flat cabuchons made of tiny roses In
shades of pink, gray blue and lavender.
The arrangement of the pearls keeps
the waves of hair flat on the forehead
and allows the contour of the head to
show.
With these smart tailored suits are
worn blouses of lace or chiffon, though
coats are not removed except for com
fort in an over-warm room, and furs
are retained and thrown over the lap
or back of the chair. Large or small
hats are worn and veils are adjusted
in the way proper with a tailored street
costume.
At the luncheon or bridge, where the
hat is invariably retained, a veil is
not considered good form and hats
worn at these affairs are usually of
the picture variety, or are very chic
little toques of fur, lace and flowers.
At all afternoon receptions and at very
formal bridge parties the gloves are
retained, the hand portion being tucked
back in the wrist during the game.
Gloves are often drawn off, with even
ing dress, leaving the entire arm bare,
btu the gloves must be present and in
evidence In the hand. With many of
the dancing frocks and restaurant din
ner frocks long gloves of silk with
delicate embroideries in self color on
the wrist are worn. Though the hat
Is banished with evening dress, except
for restaurant wear, the head is usually
decorated with some ornament: either a
flat coiffure band, a cap of lace and
flowers, or an aigrette. These feather
ornaments are the craze at tbe moment
and the aigrette or marabout feather
does not rise stiffly from the coiffure
but slants off at a rakish angle at back
or side.
Uses of Salt.
Salt on the fingers when cleaning
fowls, meat pr fish will prevent slip
ping. "1
Thrown on a coal fire when broiling
steak, It will prevent blazing from tbe
dripping fat.
Salt as a gargle will cure soreness
of the throat.
Salt in water is the best thing to
clean willow ware and matting.
In the oven under baking tins it will
prevent their scorching on ths bottom.
Salt puts out a fire in the chimney.
Salt and vinegar will remove stains
from discolored teacups.
Salt and soda are excellent for bee
stings and spider bites.
Madras Cnrtalns.
When laundering madras curtains
place them one at a time full width
n ih, nut at the window, run another
rod through the hem of the lower
edge, removing wnen psrucur on.
They look much better and newer than '
when ironed.