TIIE SUNDAY OREGOMAX, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 24, 1911.
4
BUCKLED SLIPPERS THAT FLASH
POPULAR AT DANCES NOWADAYS
Stockings of Pale Mais Colored Silk Match Frock of Pastel Yellow Chiffon Patent Leather Boots With But
toned Tops Liked by Women for Wear in Afternoons.
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SATIN iillppr!i. or llpper of silver
or cold metallic cloth, with buck
les that (lash and apmrkle aa th
little foot trips over the floor, are tola
Wlntors choice: and of course th
her allkrn stocklnjt matche the. slip
per In color unless one daringly fol
lows the new fad of flesh colored hose
with black or bronze, slippers. Buckles
are very laree or very small in slse
but whatever the size thr.7 must scin
tillate to b modish. The slippers
Illustrated are. of gold cloth with
rhlnestone buckles. The stockings of
pale mats colored silk to match the
dancinar frock of pastel yellow chiffon.
Patent leather boots with buttoned
tops of silk serfte or a ribbed worsted
material. are liked by most women for
wear in the afternoon with dark gowns
that niaka an occasknal appearance. In
the street. Such boots may b had
either with very light turned soles and
French heels, or with the more prac
tical welted sole and Cuban beel for
out-of-door use In town. Sometimes
the tops are In contrasting color to
match the color and material of the
costume, and the buttons may be of
white pearl If there is a touch of white
in the costume trimming.
THE PROPER ETIQUETTE OF CHARITY
THERE Is many a woman who
actually trembles to herself at the
thought that with tfce shortening
ilara and the coming Autumn the Win
ter's work for church and charity is
ones more upon her. Very often sad
to say there Is an amount of friction
and hard work connected with tnis
charitable work quite eut of propor
tion to the results that are obtained.
There are sleepless nights spent over
rake sales that can"t possibly net more
than a few dollars' profit. Intrigue over
the holding of offices that really don't
amount to a row of pins and downright
fiuarrrls. misunderstandings and hurt
feellnga where there ought to be noth
ing but the most cordial co-operation.
It Is the same old story, and while our
guardian angels are weeping over It
and the ministers are preaching
against It and our husbands If we
have any are scolding us for It. we
go right on In our old way.
Of course. It la all a matter of bad
manners. Just lck of observance of
the simple rules of etiquette which we
ought to have been taught with the
multiplication table. (
What qualities make the Ideal church
or charity worherT Why. ail good
qualities, to be sure. You want the
plodder and the planner, the Ingenious
person and the executive person, the
prrxen with Initiative and the person
with nothing but a good tongue and
personal magnetism every sort of
woman with every sort of good qual
ity; only she must go Into the work
"minding her manners."
Now. the first thing yon must acre
upon this Autumn after yon have made
up your mind to be agreeable and
agreeable when others disagree and
w hen you have every reason and right
to lose your temper Is not to take up
too many ends. Of course, you hate
to turn a good cause away and there
doesn't seem to you to be any reason
w hy. Just because you are a manager
or the church baxaar. belong to the
Orphans' Aid. are an officer in the
duv nursery and a director of the hos
pital, that you should refuse to take
an Interest In the home for stray dogs
that Is forming. But there is a reason
and a very good reason, for the more
Irons you have In the fire the less fit
you will be to take proper care of any
of them. You wt.l lose enthusiasm Just
when enthusiasm Is most needed to
rarry these various good works
through the V inter. You will have
too little time tor our family and too
Itrtle tor the mmusements and recrea
tion you owe yourself.
Hetter narrow right down to one or
two good works to being with. Kven
vlrsyrnen who if any men do should
advocate the greatest effort for char
jiv are In mortal terror of the woman
who goes In for every good work.
The most trouble that creeps Into
charitable work comes when it con
flicts with social standards. Ton ac
cept help for your pet charity from
anv one. If your neighbor. Mrs. X-.
w hom you ha-e never called upon and
woal ln t thing of putting on your call
ing list, wants to make something for
ycur baxaar. of course you wouldn't
think of refusing to accept her dona
tions. In fact, if you find that Mrs.
X U good, reliable sort jroa axe J
nothing loath to work her for all aha
la worth, and In the rush that pre
cedes the great event you so far forget
your social standards aa to talk free
ly wNh her. Then after the bazaar,
Vhen you are no longer trying to
make your table a success, perbaps yon
plan a set of formal teas. Tou no
longer have any use for Mrs. X-, In
the street you bow rather formally
and she looks back with a little hau
teur that perhaps makes the color
come Into your cheeks. Later some
one tells you that Mra. X. was of
fended because she was not Included
among the Invited, and. perhaps, this
same person says: "I thought Mrs.
X. was a friend of yours." You an
swer that you have to keep your so
ctal lines . quite distinct from your
charitable and church lists. The dis
agreeable feeling continues. Perhaps
Mrs. X. turns out to be more of a so
cial acquisition than -you had supposed.
he gives large entertainments to
which you are not Invited, and oh
dear, what a trouble It all Is! It all
grew eut of that hateful old bazaar,
and you vow never In your life to go
into another.
It takes no end of tact and kind
ness not to let something of this sort
happen. Of course you don't want to
take up every one socially with whom
you work In charity and In many cases
people don't expert It. But at the same
time women can't be expected to work
for you and with you only to be given
a social snub later on. One way -out
of this difficulty Is to give a little tea
or a set of at homes Just for your as
sociates In any special charitable
work.
I knew a good Welshwoman with a
heart so big that she kept her family
continually afraid that she would some
day ask her newsboy or the bootblack
In to dinner. She always threw her
self heart and soul Into the yearly
church bazaar and usually came out of
It much the worse for the exertion.
"Oh. dear, but these days are busy 1"
she told me Just before the bazaae was
opened one year. "What with working
all day for the bazaar and company
for dinner almost every night. I have
no time to mysel I have to ask peo
ple for contributions for my table, and
after I have axked them I am so afraid
that the good souls will think I am
using them that I have to ask them
to dinner to make them feel that I
care Just as much for tl.m as I do
for what they can give. And of
course I dn." she added, for there was
nothing double-faced about this gen
erous Welshwoman.
Everywhere there Is a revival of
interest In churches and charities. It
struck the big cities a season or so
ago and. like the rlpplee around a
tone In a puddle. It Is evidenced In
every town and village the country
over. Churches and charities are plac
ing themselvee on a more business
like, more efficient basis and with this
movement a. great deal of the petty
work and effort done by women the
kind they ought always to have been
devoutly ashamed of will be pushed
to the wall. Charitable organizations
are no longer repositories for castoff
shoes, old furniture and bric-a-brac
that you have no more use for: and
somehow the up-to-date church Is
growing tired of the time-nonoret ralr
and expects to be supported like -any
other live concern with good plump
cher-ks and business-like efforts.
Make Uils a point In J our Winter's
work: Don't do or give anything that
Is really not good plough to do or
keep for yourself.
"You would be surprised," said a
young woman who Is the business-like
head of the periodical society In a
small town an organization that col
lects magazines for use In hospitals
"how many peopie send magazines
with the pictures cut out and what a
quantity of seed catalogues come in at
the end of the Summer and these
usually from people who could well af
ford to buy new' magazines If they had
no good used ones to send. It Just
makes more work for us in looking
them over, and then, too. It puts such
a damper on enthusiasm to have peo
ple think that anything will do for
charity."
I knew m. case where some good
lntentloned women went to the other
extreme In their efforts. They were
packing a missionary box. and owing
to the high rates of expressae they
were sending nothing but first-rate
articles. The too usual selections of
worn shoes, passee evening gowns and
motheatan flannels were cast aside,
aod this box was packed with Just the
things the poor missionary had asked
for. In order to have more quiet the
women engaged In packing had taken
their boxes and barrels and hetrogen- 1
ous collection of offerings into the min
ister's study.
All the good articles had been packed
neatly In the boxes and still a consid
erable space remained unfilled.
"It seems a shame to send It that
way, but there doesn't seem to be any
thing else good enough to send" said
one of the packers. She paused as she
lifted up a heavy volume from the
floor. "Perhaps these books would do,"
she added. "They seem to be some
thing theological and I don't believe
they have ever been read."
Just the thing! A dozen new books
on theology. Just enough to fill the
space in the -box. J"o doubt the poor
missionary miles away would enjoy
reading them. At any rate they
wouldn't insult him as old clothes
would. In a moment more the cover
was hammered on the box and the ex
pressman was carrying it on its way
to the missionary.
It wasn't until the minister received
a grateful note from the missionary
thanking him for the very welcome
books on theology that the box con
tained, that the former learned what
had become of the books he had been
scrimping and scraping" for years to
buy.
Out of the kindness of his heart the
minister snid nothing to the overzeal
ous ladies who had packed the box.
PRUDEXCK STANDISH.
Misses' Corsets, and How
They Must Be Treated
NEW
sp
ar
EW styles In misses' corsets seem
ppalllngly consequential. They
as long at the bottom as
those for grown-up wear, the hips and
back are cut to give superfluous flesh
no show at all, while the fronts are all
but absolutely straight. Plain white
coutil Is more used than a fancier ma
terial, but if a motner wants a brocaded
silk or satin or fine batiste corset for
her lassie she can find It without
trouble.
With the short-top models a bust sup
port is indispensable, but this may be
the airiest little thing of tape bands
and insertion, or else be in the shape of
a boned corset cover, fastening at the
back and holding the figure in snugly.
Naturally the cheapest corsets are
made of cheap material from start to
finish, and those stiffened with celluoM.
wood and other false bonlngs are by no
means as desirable as the ones with real
whalebone. The corsets hold a very sub
stantial place in the sphere of dress,
as the comfort and health of the
wearer are as much concerned as the
look of the figure it Is not a thing to
be bought In haste.
At a shop devoted to misses' wc.ir
ten distinct cuts in corsets are to be
seen, the styles adapting themselvee to
various figures.
One excellent model for the medium
K-year old figure has a medium high
bust, long hips and perfectly straight
seams. These are In sizes from 18
inches to 24 inches waist measure. X
corset of brocaded silk, invented by a
great maker of tailored gowns, affects
with its long, straight Unas the admired
beanpole figure and has eight stocking
straps; and one of tricot a sort of
heavy stockinette has a top so short
that It is no more than a belt. This is
for all the young girls and small wo
men who fret under corset wearing,
and tlxey are' very well off when they
get such stays, for they are next to
nothing at all. Yet. although giving
with every movement, corsets in the
better qualities of tricot still hold the
figure In acceptably.
Excellent models In coutil sell from
dollar ninety-eight up. Corsets In do
mestic tricot are 5 and those In the
Imported material $7 or more. With the
handsomer corsets, a silk lace ten yards
long Is included In the charge.
All young girls should be taught to
keep their corsets In a proper manner.
nd if they have then tried on at the
shop they will see that there Is a way
to put them on and take them off: With
the usual short top model, about four
holes from the top and four from the
bottom the lace Is carried to the next
hole on the same side of the drawstring
loops. When the corset is put on the
lacing Is left loose, and when It Is
taken oft the strings are first untied
and then pulled loose. It ruins the
shape of a corset to put It on and take
It oft without loosening the lace.
Before any of the stringing up the
stays must be adjusted to the figure.
pulled as low down as is possible, with
all the stocking elastics attached. Lift
the chest during this performance and
push the abdomen upward instead of
downward. It Is only after these man
euvers that the lacing should be done.
When the corsets are taken off they
should be aired first and then rolled up
tight beginning from the button steel.
When they are slightly soiled, rubbing
the dark places with a rag dipped in
ammoniated water will freshen them,
especially If they are sunned afterward.
A corset that has been carefully washed
and retrlmmed at the top will last as
long again.
Corsetlngs for undeveloped girls in
their early teens are verv simple affairs
mostly In the nature of boned bodices.
with a little puffing for the bust.
Again where a girl Is carrying herself
badly only a shoulder brace will be
advised, or If she holds her abdomen
out awkwardly the salespeople may
uggest a rubber hip and abdomen sup
port.
But. considering the subject from all
Its pofnts, unless a girl's figure Is un
duly developed or wrong In some way.
he less corseting she has the better. A
little watch and ward over the "Jun
ior's" habit of carrying herself Is often
as corrective 01 ungraceiumcas as is
the mechanical appliances.
MARY DEAN.
SKATING AND OUTING MAID SHOULD
WEAR LACED AND TAN BOOTS TODAY
Dame Fashion Now Decrees Pair Sex Shall Don Tramping Costnme With Serge Skirt Special Shoe Proves Easy
on Feet Leather Should Be Stout and Boots Heavily Soled.
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TOUT soled boots, lacing firmly
over Instep and ankle, are the only
ort for the skating maid. When
skates are worn without straps but
toned boots may be used and some
times are used by the smartly-dressed
young women who skate at the Indoor
rinks: but the special shoe built for
running and skating is the better sort.
With these business-like skating boots
are shown some very attractive skating
togs, including a snow-white knitted
skirt and Norfolk Jacket, a cosy knitted
cap and warm knitted gloves.
With the smart, short walking-skirt
and sweatee-coat In which one will take
long, invigorating tramps at Winter
resorts, tan boots will be the thing, and
these tan walking boots, whether In
buttoned or laced style, will be made of
fine quality, supple calf leather on
stout, welted soles with sensible, broad
heels. The height of a heel does not
so mr.eh matter, provided its base is
broad enough to afford a firm support
for the foot on rough roads. The pic
ture shows a tramping costume with
serse skirt and one of the new sweat
ers which fit close up around the throat.
DAINTY BUTTONED BOOTS DISPLACE
CHERISHED PUMP IN POPULAR EYE
Hew Gaiter-Boot Makes Foot Look Small Woman With Number Five Should Eschew Velvet White Shoe on
Streets Is Innovation Flesh-Colored Silk Stockings Daring Fad.
"H
OW quaint It must h&ye been,"
you commented perhaps only a
twelvemonth ago, looking over
some old engravings, "when they wore
crinolines and those funny gaiter
boots." And you never dreamed that
fashion's busy wheel had gaiter-boots
all ready to whirl around to the top
for your own consideration.
' For gaiters are once more the mode
not only the detachable cloth "spats"
which most of us, on occasions, during
the past decade of their oblivion, have
buttoned on, over our dancing slippers
when a carriage or taxi seemed too
great a luxury, and removed stealthily
In a retired corner of the ladles' dressing-room
not only these useful but
hitherto unfashionable "spats," but
hona fide sfaiter-boots are now the
height of style. And these gaiter-
boots are very like those worn on the
croquet lawn by our mammas In the
early '70s, except that the new gaiter
boots Instead of having laces or elas
tics up the Inner side, button daintily
on the outer siae. ana nave mucu mo
effect of exquisitely fitting gaiters
over high heeled, thin-soled slippers,
Tuned Soles' Rage.
ill footwear Intended for wear with
ceremonious gowns Is now very dainty
in character. Turned seles and high
heels are put on the pretty boots of
kid, suede or satin tnat my iaay wnu
SHOES OF MASCULINE MODEL ARE
FAVORED FOR TROTTEUR COSTUMES
Boot Has Heavy Solo and Stitching and Bounded Toe White Buckskin, With Pearl Buttons, Is Used With
White Gowns for Street Wear.
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IATEST STYLE 1ST FOOTWEAR.
. '
iHREG styles of street boots and
two dainty slippers for evening
frocks are Illustrated here. One
of these boots Is a mannish model of
tan calf, favored for wear with trotteur
suits of serge or wool mixtures. This
boot has a heavy sole and stitching
and a rounded toe. In the center is a
white buckskin boot with pearl but
tons for street wear with white' cos
tumes. The third boot Is designed for
wev" with trailing afternoon gowns
snd Is of black satin. The slipper on
the left Is bronze with a buckle of
bronze beads and dull gilt. At the
right Is a pink satin dancing slipper
with an oval rhlnestone ornament.
with her theater, bridge and afternoon
reception gowns, and these thin-soled,
high-heeled boots buttoning well up
above the ankle, having entirely re
placed the low pump or slipper which
last Winter was worn with such cos
tumes. In fact. It Is not considered
now quite the best of taste to display
unbooted ankles In the afternoon, and
even with evening gowns the neat, but
toned boots of thin kid or satin are
worn by some women. There le noth
ing really prettier, however, under a
light evening costume than a little
slipper showing a slender ankle and
Instep, silk clad, and many women, re
alizing the coquetry of the slipper, re
fuse to adopt the modish buttoned boot
In the evening. - '
The extent to which this high boot
fashion has gone Is proved by stage
costumes of the moment. All the
pretty maids In the 'chorus of the "Si
ren," a light opera which has been
running some months on Broadway,
wear with their trailing evening gowns
pretty little gaiter-boots Which make
their tripping feet look fairy like, and
many of the solo dancers do their
pas seuls in dainty buttoned boots
which match their high-flung Bklrts.
Of course, these boots are made of the
softest, most supple materials and fit
so to speak like the paper on the
wall, and In them the foot and ankle
are neater, slimmer and quite as small
as In a slipper. The effect of the boot,
moreover, is smart and -elegant while
the slipper in this time of craze for
high boots seems to have an informal
and demi-toilette suggestion that is
not half as distinguished as the booted
effect. '
Velvet Footwear Wanes.
Velvet footwear is not as fashion
able as It was last- season. At its
best, the velvet boot or slipper made
the foot look several sizes larger than
It really was and moreover it soon
stretched and became clumsy. featin
boots are exquisitely dainty and ele
gant and these boots, and also slippers
of satin, are Just now the grand chic
for dressy and indoor wear; street
boots of thin kid or patent leather fre
auentlv have satin tops or tops of a
ribbed silk serge which is very smart
and becoming to the foot. Black satin
boots with white pearl buttons were
worn by a woman in a black and white
velvet suit at the Plaza last Sunday at
tea hour, and this black and white idea
was carried out all through the cos
tume, the suit being 01 DlacK velvet
with white satin revers and cuffs, the
hat black with a white goura aigrette
and the furs black fox with white
pointing.
White boots are also fashionable for
street wear this season, and now that
one has become accustomed to the
white-clad feet tripping over Winter
pavements the idea is rather pleas
ing. After all. why should not one's
boots be white as well as black or
tan, provided the soles are sufficiently
thick to keep the feet within warm?
Of course, these white boots, which
are usually of buckskin or kid, are
supposed to accompany snow white
costumes, but one sees them quite fre
quently with evening frocks combining
black wtth wnite ana even, now iiuu
then, with tailored suits of black and
white mixture, or black velvet showing
a deal of white in the trimming. These
white boots are much prettier and seem
in better taste than me oiacK patent
leather boot with a white top or white
kid boots with blaclc trimmings ,
though the latter are worn by smartly
garbed women with indoor costumes.
. With the tailored wool suit for gen
eral street and shopping use, conserva
tive, not too fancy footwear is the
adamantine rule. , Well-made, beautifully-fitting
boots of stitched calf, or
of patent leather with calf tops are
seen with such costumes and there are
special boots of this sort, built on a
mannish last, with a wide swing to the
sole though the toe is daintily pointed,
and heels that are lower than the ordi
nary Cuban heel affected generally
now. These college-cut boots as they
are called, do not button quite so high
on the ankle as the more feminine boot
and the buttons are set wider apart
like those on a boy's shoe. Tan foot
wear Is much seen on the younser
women even with velvet tailored suits,
a breach of good taste which it seems
hard to account for, since these tan col
ored boots are sometimes worn by in
dividuals who one Is certain should
know better. The tan calf boot has al
ways been associated with Informal,
rough and ready, garb, and even a
white boot, startling as its contrast
with a dark velvet costume undoubt
edly is,' seems in better taste under such
a skirt than the boot of tan calf.
Speaking of footwear that seems
startling rather than conservative, what
shall one say about the fad for flesh
colored hose which has cropped up this
season? The flesh-tinted silk stock
ing, showing above the buttoned boot
when a skirt is lifted, is certainly start
ling jf not disconcerting. Even with
a slipper, flesh-colored stockings are
not as startling in effect as they ara
above a boot-top. If my lady desires
something striking with her dancing
slipper, she may choose a pair of
the black silk hose embroidered up the
front as far as the knee with a writh
inc serpent, the body of the snake be
ing wrought with glittering sequins and
the eyes with emerald-colored beads.
Larue Buckles Approved.
Mammoth slipper buckles are the
fashion or tiny buckles of rhlnestones
that add Just a' point of fire to the slip
per toe as it dances. When the buckles
are large and made of gold set with
brilliants they are naturally costly a
hundred dollars a pair being a not un
usual price for such ornaments; and
many of these buckles are detachable,
the maid changing them from one pair
of slippers to another as occasion re
quires A pair of such buckles. In a
Jeweler's satin-lined case. Is a popular
gift for my lady now. Miss Kitty
Gordon, in her new opera, "The En
chantress," wears the same huge dia
mond buckles with three different pairs
of slippers matching her costumes, the
handsome buckles presumably being
changed, as a brooch would be when
the slippers are changed.
Though sturdy tramping boots of tan
calf in laced style, with low heels and
stout welted soles are worn with out
ing costumes in the country and are
actually necessary for skating, one sees
white buttoned buckskin boots with the
white motoring and polo coats accom
panied by snowy furs. Such boots of
course have heavy enoug-h soles for out-of-door
wear and suggest in their
shape, stitching and finish an athletic
use.