THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, DECEMBER. 10, 1911. PALAZZO VESCHIO'S DAGGERED SPIRE SEEMS TO TYPIFY FLORENCE'S PAST Chill of Winter Breathed by Guardian H21 About Ancient City Staoa Tourist and Resident Alike With Influenza. Modern Florentine la Interesting as His Brother of Long Ago. f A . . .. . f t '. ' . - ;"'.-.. ' ; c -; I : :, ;- -. ... . . . : . . - 7 7T jDcrrrr: BT AVXIB LAVRA MILLER. r'RENCE ta cold In Winter. Th mn, ta bo lure, hitwo brlghtlr, warming the Tory marrow of one's bones, m. one tauntiri alona; th Amo, and It seems Tery friendly and cheerful to dweliers nnder dull northern skies who go there for the season; but the hill surround Ins the city are capped with snow, there Is a chill In the nar row, ftnady streets which stabs one to the h'art until Florentines and tourist visitors fall like tenpins, bowled over hy Influenza. Kven the hospitals are umtlm9 full. "rompWe. as' the Ital ian dnrtor put It. Two weeks In my room had nevertheless some pleasures. There was the view from my win dow; tho Arno flowed below, a shallow stream In a rocky river bed many slze too bin for It: across on th op posite bank stood the picturesque old crate of Kan Xlrcolo, and above, "that steep" which lante mentions, crowned now with pointed cypressos. with th Klcantic David, a black silhouette asHtntt the sky. and with the beautiful basilica church of Sin Mlnlato. Time was when the pious Mlniatus lived In a hermttaRe. In a forest, where the church now stands, until a pasran Emperor had him taken over th Arno and beheaded. Then the. miracle hap pened: Mlniatus picked up his head, put It on his shoulders and walked arross the river up the hill to his cell, and so Into the arrest company of saints. Galileo's To'wer 9eeau j Not far away on the sky line stood the castellated medieval tower where Galileo made experiments, and the in tervening; slopes were dotted by pretty villas, surrounded by ftray srreen olive trees, with here and there some crumb line sections of the old city wall to which red vines were clinging. When the view was shut out at night there was an unseen slngor, who sang pas sionate love songs In the street along the Arno. and his melting Italian voice gave me more pleasure than Kublik's violin witchery, which I heard after wards In the theater. There as the doctor, full of kindli ness. There was also Madam, a very bustling .Madam, ordinarily too busy to put on her belt, but never too busy to make a kindly call and to send In ex tra dainties which appeared dally In the rooms, but never en the bill. Ma dam was handsome. I found out one day. when she was dressed all In filmy black with her belt in honor of an aft ernoon tea. There was also Eda. the maid, who susrtteated eggnoics and run off to make them In the midst of her morning work, snd whose sweet-toned "O'tod night, signortta," was like a ben ediction. Nor must I forset the burly porter. Fda's husband, who lumbered in good-naturedly with baskets of wood and pine cones te burn in the quaint little plaster fireplace Some way these modern Florentines, with their kind hearts driven from my mind. Dante and the Medici and all the ancient Intellectual Florentines whom I should have been thlnklnar of had I been dolns; my duty to Culture, that modern goddess at whose shrine so manv of us American women worship. The influents vanquished, we went every day. however we wandered, through the beautiful court of the I'alaxso Vecchio to gaze on the sym metrical pillars and the fountain where a little bronxe boy holds a spoutlnir dolphin. The plaxza beyond was always Interesting. Here was the center of political life under the republic; here Savonarola was burned at the stake: here was the great strike of the guilds, and here nowadays, tour ists swarm to see the old palace and the famous sculptures In the loggia, nd close at their heels come women with laces, men with bronxe medal lions of Dante and Savonarola and boys with postcards. Ff asvs la Lively Plaee. On market days the piazza Is full of countrymen, picturesque figures some ef them in terracotta overcoats with trimming of tawny fur, and one day officials flew distractedly about In full dress uniforms. The streets were parked with crowds and soldiers on guard, and the loggia was hung with rare old tapestries, for the Duke of r.enoa wss coming to town. And above the sou a re stood the grim old palace, massive and Imposing with its square batdemrnts and the slender, soaring lower whlrh dominates Florence. It always seemed to me. though it may have been but a foolish fancy, tr.at the tower of the Plaxzo Veschlo typified the past history of Florence: It looks so like the feathered shaft of an arrow. Daggers and poisons, to be exact, were more popular wea pons but strife wss the rule and when the Florentines were not blessed with a foreign foe to unite the warring fac tions, they were cursed with conspira cies at home and the great man of yes terday wss the penniless exile of today. What were they like we wondered, the old Florentines, ths women, who often caused the feuds, and the mer chants, nobles and commoners who were forever fighting among themselves. Here snd there in , the galleries one finds portraits and busts to answer the ques tion. Perhaps the truest likenesses are Raphael's portraits In the Pittl Palace of a Florentine merchant and his wife, great friends of the painter In the year 1S0S. The face of the merchant Is shrewd and keen: one would not like to op pose him In business: the face of the, lady wears an expression anything but aXUble; one would not like t oppose v"-"-'.': ""'- ''--' ' ? - -V- - . .fk? m f . 1 ' ' K A . her In society; or maybe, society would I have none of ber. there Is a disappoint- I ed droop to the corners of her mouth. I RAIDS ON SAN FRANCISCO OPIUM DENS YET PROSECUTED VIGOROUSLY State Board of Pharmacy Pursuing Relentless War Against Traffic in Drug Authorities Searching for Missing Captain Meyer, Who Owns Schooner at CoosBay Bay City May Have Traffic Squad. SAN FRANCISCO. Dec. I. (Special.) San Francisco will be rid of the opium traffic if the State Board of Pharmacy has Its way. That organi sation his full authority to take up the situation and It appears sufficiently detemined. Last week there was a raid of the opium Joints, together with the arrest of 200 whites and Chinese. Since that time the hauls have not been as big, but they have been coming along at a pace that indicates business Is meant. Incidentally this raid brings Into the limelight a condition which the police and medical men. together with the Federal authorities, have known all along. In spits of the high price of the "dope" and the absolute prohibi tion against It as an Import, opium In Its various forms Is still smuggled Into this city In large quantities. Probably It Is true that most of It la now com ing In over the Mexican border, owing to the successful raids on trans-Paclflc steamers at this port during the post year or two. Prelts Are Big. Whichever way it Is coming In, it Is patent that large quantities are sold here and somebody Is making large pre fits out of the law breaking. Medical men say it Is surprising how many white men and women use mor phine and opium and how aad are the stories of these drug fiends. Some of them are so soaked with the poison that It Is hard to believe the quantities they take at times. According to a clerk In one of the all-night stores where the drugs are for sale, one of these steady customers buys and swallows something like 1 grains of morphine about five times a week. ' The disappearance of Captain Ray mond L Meyer, one of the active mari ners of the Pacific Coast, has led to a atatewlde search on the part of his rel atives and friends. The lost time he was seen was at Shasta Springs, on the evening of June JO. At that time he had considerable money en his person. He was passing his vacation at the re sort and had written home that h would return to Ban Francisco in a day or so. At the time of his disappearance Cap .4 -'e.tiS 1 One would rather have met. I think, Nlccolo da Uzzano, the great lover of liberty whose head, by Donatello. seems tain Meyer had a schooner, of which he was the main owner, at Coos Bay. He was to have Joined the vessel with in a few days. His friends say that he had no business or domestic connec tions that might have led to his disap pearance. He was a single man, IS years of age. Record Is Widely Known. Captain Meyer has figured In a num ber of exploits of Pacific Coast navi gation. He was the mate of an ocean liner some years ago when the captain was murdered at sea and at the time he took charge of the vessel and rut the accused men In Irons. San Francisco is going to have a traffic squad of police, like those In the big cities of the Kant. Plans for this squad have long been agitated by the Chamber of Commerce, the North Beach Improvement Association, the Motor Car Dealers and kindred organisations. The traffic squad, according to Cap tain O'Meara, probably will consist of IS to 20 men, the major portion of whom will be mounted and commanded by a lieutenant of police. It will be the duty of this detachment to enforce the present traffic laws, which are believed to be ample, once the driving publio Is educated to observe them. The mounted men will work In the middle of the block. All heavy vehicles will be required to travel as near the curb as possible and the light traffic and automobiles will be kept in the middle of the street. Drivers turning Into a side street to the left will -have to drive entirely around the center of the crossing. Instead of risking colli sion with the traffic from that direction by cutting across the corner. Mlalaar Boalnesa Active. There are signs of a big revival of mining on the mother lode In California. Malcolm McLaren, the representative of a London syndicate, has Just pur chased, for $1(0,000 from the estate of Alvlna Hay ward, two mines in Amador County that have been closed for years. McLaren and another agent of the syn dicate are making report on five other mines which, it is believed, the British ers will buy, If the prices are satisfac tory. The owners of the Jumper mine, a about to speak as one stands before it. He might have much to say to us citizens of a big modern republic He seems to have loved liberty with out being exiled, which was a, great feat In those days. Medici Are Recalled. As a family the Medici alone man aged In spite of some submergings to ride high and dry on the tide of civic discontent the wealthy tyrannical Me dici who crushed out liberty and yet gave to the city most of the art treas ures which attract people from all parts of the world nowadays. The story goes that the family be gan to rule as democrats and that the very balls on their coat of arms repre sent the pills made by an apothecary ancestor. A clever coat of arms if the tale Is true. One can fancy that even in these days a wealthy English brew er say, elevated to the peerage, might gain widespread popularity by adopt ing a coat of arms bearing hops. It Is pleasant to go from the Palazzo Vecchio with all of its suggestions of political unrest to the quiet cloisters of San Marco. One Sprlnp-Ilke morn ing when we were there the sunlight warmed the old walls and fell through the branches of the big evergreen tree making an intricate shadow pattern In the center of the cloister. There was no one there but an artist copying the fresco of Christ on the cross, and as we walked around looking at Fra Angelica's paintings, so full of tender ness and spiritual Ity it was easy to imagine the gentle monk walking In that tranquil place with the peace of God In his soul. What divine visions possessed him! And how they possess us too for all our 20th century scientific knowl edge, when we see those same visions, painted prayerfully, on the walls of the very cloisters and cells where they appeared to the inspired artist. Was there ever a picture of hospi tality like that one over the dqor to the lodging for wayfarers,! where Christ as a pilgrim Is welcomed by-two monks? Setting of Drrini Viewed. If It was easy to Imagine Fra An gel Ico there it was difficult to Imagine the protesting spirit of Savonarola at home In so restful a, place. Vet he was prior of the convent andhad his dreams there too. dreams of the down fall of the Medici, of a kingdom of fJod on earth to be brought about speedily by violence and the sword. His Intangible dreams of liberty and justice left no pictures on the monas tery walls to soothe troubled souls, but they led him to a violent death. He died for his dreams and a man can do no more. I.lfe cannot be quite so Interesting to the monks of these days. One monk whom we saw at Flesole In the hilltop monastery had the face of an archangel and yet an empty face, one fat one who we saw In the cloisters by the Spanish chspel was lazily plant ing a little cypress tree, and one at the Carmine gave us quite a shock by his boisterous manner, which we under stood when we saw across the cloister in a passageway a servant putting old wines into new bottles. Plessanter even than beginning the day In the court of the Palazzo) Vecchio was the ending of it with a sunset stroll along the Ponte Vecchio, that pic turesque old bridge where the Jewelers have had their shops ever since the leth centurr. We never tired of the gay display of gems and semi-precious atones in cunningly wrought gold and silver settings all hanging out for the undoing of our pursestrlngs: whenever we looked at the houses rising from the opposite bank we saw an odd bit of roof with a quaint chimney like a dovecote, or a window or archway we had not seen before; then it was a joy to watch the sunsets over the river from the arches of the bridge; and not until the sun's last bright banners had disappeared in the dusk did we turn homeward. A little crippled girl who sold oranges In a niche at the end of the bridge gave us a happy smile, and we went on by streets of tall palaces with fine doorways, by shops where loaves of bread dangled from strings, and sometimes we would see from a palace window above, a maid lowering a bas ket to. -be filled at the shops on the ground floor below. Once, near the shop of "Tantl Grazle," we saw a small boy stabbing a playmate with a wooden dagger. He must have been reading some history, we said, of the good old times of Florentine feuds and tyrants. "Tantl Grazle" beamed and said good night to us. She was always beaming at the door of her shop and we won dered when she found time for em broidery. Her smiles were as frequent as the "Many thanks" for which we named her, having no Inkling of her real name. A few doors beyond was the chill and tomblike entrance to our own palace-pension, owned by some mysterious. Impoverished Marchesa whom we never saw, and we tolled up the solemn stairway thinking hungrily of the roast chicken Madam always provided for dinner. French crowd, have been successful In selling some of the company's stock on the Paris Bourse and with the money will actively work the property. This Is the first American gold mine to sell Its securities on the Paris Bourse. According to experts, the mother lode In California Is tbe greatest auriferous body In the world and If worked by the best mining methods could make this state the greatest gold-producing sec tion on the globe for more than a hun dred years to come. In recent years Colorado has run ahead of California in gold output and Alaska has been practically a close sec ond with this state. For some reason foreign capital has been fighting shy of mother lode mines. Now that it is beginning to give some attention to them, mining men assert It is a very significant move for the gold produc tion Industry of the state. Pet Dog Caste ef Fuss. Alexander Rutherford and his charm ing bride from New York are still In dignant at the St. Franclg Hotel man agement for refusing to permit them to take their dog Into the apartments they have engaged. When the dictum of "no dog, no apartment for us" could not avail, they left and vowed they would never darken the doors of that caravansary again. The gracious request of Lillian Rus sell not to be separated from her Jap anese sleeve dog is never refused by the St. Francis. Tbe Palace always allows Tetrazzlnl to have her high bred little animal In her apartments, even if he does bark In jealous spirit when the others show its mistress at tention. ' The entrancing smile and soft, allur ing voice that dance attendance on Tetrazzlnl and her request about her dog cannot be resisted by the Palace Hotel management. Not long ago Mrs. Thomas, of New York, the divorced wife of one of the Ooulds. wss permitted to take her pet Chinese dog into her rooms, and there are other well-known instances. As is true in many matters and things. It all depends on how you request the favor from the hotel. Young Ruther ford was born in San Francisco snd should have remembered that this Is not the wild and wooly West, where he can do as he pleases SCIENTIFIC METHODS DIVEST LAND CLEARING OF ITS OLDEN TERRORS Experiments Conducted by Pullman College Professor Prove That Logged-Off Areas, Containing Some of Kichest of Agricultural Soils, Can Be Cleared With Minimum of Difficulty. r.Vv'i tar 4 r V.I . i r. "t afr BT ADDISON BENNETT. SOMETHING less than two years ago the F. B. Holbrook Company, of this city, purchased about 3000 rcres of cut-ovor lands in Columbia County, the tract lying back of Goble, about 40 miles down the Columbia River from Portland. These were just ordinary so-called logged-off valley lands, with the usual number of stumps and an ordinary amount of down timber in the shape of old trees and other refuse left by the logger, and aSout the usual covering of brush and small trees. This land was subdivided into tracts of from 10 to 40 acres and a system of roads constructed through it, so that each tract could be conveniently reached on a good grade. Headquar ters were established at the former logging camp and mill site, once known, in the active logging days, as Frultdale. and later as Redtown, Goble being the postoffice address. These lands were placed on the market to test the problem and possibility of set tling and clearing this class of lands by those not financially able to own or manage larger and more valuable properties. It Is pretty generally known that in the Northwest there is a very large area of these cut-over lands; but it may not be as widely known that this area is Increasing each year. Such, however, is the case, more acres being denuded of the timber each year than are brought under cultivation, far more. And this Is not a favorable con dition of affairs, particularly when we consider that these lands are, as a rule, the very finest for agricultural pur poses of any to be found unused in the West. When we consider the fact that all of the lands in Oregon and Washington have been exploited to a greater or lesser degree by the railroads, com mercial clubs and various civic bodies, save only these splendid cut-over lands, and remember that they have been avoided solely on account of the all prevailing Idea occupying, the public mind that to undertake to clear them was to premeditate financial and phys ical suicide In a slow but terrible and tortuous manner, it seems time to wake up and see if there Is not a rift in the clouds, some better and more modern way of getting such lands occupied and In crop. That there has been dereliction In gpttlng these lands settled, goes with out saying. And at the same time we must remember that thousands of set tlers have taken raw lands remote from water and fuel, far from market and Inaccessible by rail, water or even wagon roads. In other words, we have been placing the newcomers on inferior lands and passing by the very best. I wonder how many of my readers realize that there have been in the past great energy and expense squandered by the owners of these lands to try to settle them, only to find all their ef forts wasted simply by the "bug-bear." land clearing? Now; what is this ter rible task: where were the horrors and fear born? Did they come from the exaggerated experiences of the men who knew only main strength and awkwardness, without system, the oth ers who in their hurry undertook the Job with large and expensively equipped machinery outfits, and that other class who used large amounts of explosives but all without regard to season or system? Tes; while in all other branches of agriculture and land settling there have been great im provements, the simple matter of land clearing stood still for 60 years. It was to solve this problem that Professor H. W. Sparks, farm director of the Washington Agricultural Col lege, at Pullman, and Mr. Holbrook went to work with their heads and hands and purses. Professor Sparks Investigated to the best of his ability with able assistants, backed by Federal and state aid; and Mr. Holbrook has searched at large expense in both time and money among all of the best land clearers of the sort Just mentioned; but no sign of an Intelligent system could they find. But they did find a system among single-handed operators who were us ing their heads, not going about the work with pure physical strength: found It among men who had reasoned i j Lit, its iMiiilr"- " ' ------' -x-. a- ...35 is- y out that since the result of clearing land was to burn everything that en cumbered it, that it was easier and cheaper to take the fire to the stump than to take the stump to the Are. easier to crack the small logs with cheap charges of powder and burn them where they lay than to take this enor mous tonnage to the Are. The brush and small trees are easily handled in wet weather, when the ground is soft, by the ordinary two- i Ha. TV. I n nrni-OtS la Horse eiuiup puuti. , o . ... . slow, but seems to be the cheapest method now known. But Mr. Holbrook is endeavoring to reduce this item of cost, and is assured by the mechanical engineers he has engaged that success will be attained. He has engaged some of the best gasoline men in the country In the work, and soon we may expect to see this cheap fuel doing the work cheaper and quicker than it can be done by horses; and then one of tha hardest tasks horses have ever been called on to perform will be a duty of the past. These men have found that the sim ple operations performed in the proper manner and at the right seasons of the year, requiring only the ordinary- tools to be found on the average farm, have robbed the task of land clearing of its terrors, have brought the work within the means of every landowner, irre spective of his age, strength or finan cial condition. It is not an easy matter to describe the char-plttlng method. To the per son wanting to go at the business sys tematically, he should by all means go and see the actual preparing and burn ing done; and no better place can be found than on the Holbrook tract back of Goble. There you can find where thousands of stumps have been burned, and can see others prepared to fire as soon as i the wet weather is over. Attd perhaps the pictures given herewith may be of benefit. Hut following is a very clear descrip tion of the work, as taken from Better Fruit: "Briefly, charpitting consists In pil ing a" ring of kindling around the base of a stump, covering the same to a depth of abopt six inches with sod, ex cept an opening, preferably on the windward side, where the Are will be started. Later this opening or vent is closed. This should not be done, how ever, until the kindling is all burning. After the fire is completely covered it should be and must be confined until the charring has been completed. In all cases It is best to remove the bark from the crown as low as the kindling is placed, so that the kindling will be In contact with the wood. In clay soils the usual plan is to place the kindling around the stump at the surface, as explained, but in sandy soils a narrow trench several inches in depth is dug around the base, the bark removed to the depth of the trench, after which the kindling is put in place and the covering placed over it. It Is necessary to use an artificial covering under such conditions, since sod from sandy soil, In burning, allows the sand to run In. putting out the fire. Mixing clay with sandy soil gives the desired result, and 3uch a practice can be recommended where clay soil can be had at a reason able cosC of time and labor. Some ex periments have been conducted in us ing an artificial covering of cool ashes, and with considerable success. Trials have also been made with fuel oil mixed with sawdust and a small amount of kindling covered with vari ous natural and artificial coverings, and with various degrees of success. "Concerning the charpitting method, it must be said that the best success is met with where well-drained clay soils of considerable depth occur, that do not become loose and powdery when heated. Under soil conditions where stumps will burn out to a good depth and the larger roots are consumed to a depth of several feet, leaving a tun nel in the soil, thus marking its course, the methad can be said to be pre-eminently practical, and especially so where money is not available for land clearing by the more rapid and ex pensive methods, such as using a stump burner, a stump-pulling device, powder or a donkey engine. It should also be understood that in places where soil conditions are favorable the con dition of the stumps themselves are variable, the green and solid usually i r- i r i I-I I A- rM lit- -' i burning most readily, wnlle the uecay Ing ones, and especially those with water-soaked tops and crown, burn slow ly or refuse to burn aj all. The water contained in a soil also has a very de cided Influence on the rate of burning. Some of the very wet areas of clay land cannot be cleared by this method until drained, owing to the seepage or preva lence of springs, which keep the soil completely filled with water "It can also be said that where tho method is at all serviceable that it should be practical and especially where money for land clearing Is a greater object than time or labor, since a shovel, ax and a box of matches con stitute the land-clearing outfit. Con cerning the various estimates on de stroying stumps, the price ranges as low-as 40 to 60 cents each. The price, of course can be varied, and is varied by different individuals, depending upon the value placed upon the time consumed while the work is beins done. The price, however, does not in fluence the cost as much as the poor or good soil conditions and the manage ment, whether good, bad or Indifferent. To be pre-eminently successful at char plttlng the. operator must be a close observer, a careful worker and a good) manager, even where conditions are fa vorable for such work, and especially so when conditions are variable and more or loss adverse." The appreciation of Mr. Holbrook's work is shown by the fact that some thing more than 100 tracts of the Goble lands have been sold, and fully 40 fam ilies are now on their places improving them. These owners have become con vinced by seeing the work performed by the company men that they can by their own efforts and at very little expense clear their lands. Indeed, any person seeing what has been done there will immediately come to the conclu sion that the land-clearing problem has been solved; all that now remains is to get a few hundred people at work along the proper lines, to get some of the larger landowners Interested, and to go forward under the leadership of such men as Professor Sparks and Mr. Holbrook. A Cat and Dog JLife. Greenwich, Conn., Dispatch to New York Herald. Judge J. Frank MacLaughlin is tho owner of two bulldogs. Rex and Bob. He also possesses a black cat. Tho cat starts the day by washing Bob as if he were a kitten. Then she goes outdoors to Rex' house and goes through the same performance. Afterward she takes a nap beside the dogs in the dog house. A strange dog went into the yard the other day and Rex started to drive him out. Bob was watching the proceeding, and the cat rushed out to see what was going on. As soon as Bob saw her in the yard lie Jumped for her, and, grab bing her by the collar, ran for the house and dropped her inside the door. He then stood guard there. The cat made several attempts to go out, but Bob would not let her until the strange dog was driven away. The ani mals are the constant companions of Judge and Mrs. MacLaughlin, and have, made several Winter trips to Georgia and Florida. They always travel in the same crate. Diogenes In Oily Mood. Milwaukee Sentinel. Diogenes paused and shook the hand of the prominent citizen heartily. "Is he the honest man?" afterward asked the Athenians. "S'h-h," replied Diogenes In a whis per. "I have to humor him. Ha owns the oil trust." Whereupon he made his way to the refinery and had his lantern filled free of charge.