The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, October 01, 1911, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 64

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One of Host of Pretty Trocks Needed Is of Mahogany-Colored Pernio Many Charming Features on Tailored
SuiU for Misses Trimmiags Are Bright and Youthful.
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NEW TOF.K. Sept. JO. (Special.)
The popular colics; alrl require
a host of pretty frnvka, for, be
side club meetings, luncheons and
ether eortal fum-tlna Incidental to the
last year at school, there will ba Invi
tation to the home of girl chums and
other occasions rejulrlna; prety clothes.
The trntteur frock Illustrated la built
WiUe not7coaT"wi7h Dark Tar Trimmings. Attractive for Wee Girls-Big Polo Coats Adorn Slender Maids.
Buttons Galoe Are features on All Youthful Models.
EVERT Urce opening; row has Ita
quota of chlljreaa costume,
shown on living models, and the
pretty little jrtrla who paca aedately
bealda the rron-up manikins at tha
costume display, are no small feature
of Interest to the visitor.
In America these child manikins are
a feature borrowed from the Krench
exhibitions where little s;!rls of or 10
toss'd out In Frenchified finery, havo
all the alra and ra-es of the pro.
fesalonal manikin, one of tha larxe
New Tork shops recently cava a five
day exhibition of Imported coatumes
and there were several child models
who walked up and down In lovely
frocks, hats and eoata. One tiny mlaa
of 4 paraded with the conacloua grace
ad vanity of a peacock before tha
eyea of the spectator, not realtxlnsr
how pltttul were her abanrd yet amus
ing airs.
raaiataaa Fellew Aaserira.
All the world looks to rarls for
fashions both grown-up and Juvenile:
yet atrangely enough the I'aris moth,
era are busy copying and adapting for
their li'tle onea. the clothes of Eng
lish and American children. Not very
long ago the French child, with Its
befrtlled frocks. elaborately curled
hair and shockingly short petticoats
over thin, bare lege, was a traveaty of
childhood: but now fashionable chil
dren the m-orld over are prettily, prac
tically and sensibly dressed, and de
algnera seek every season to produce
garments that will combine dlstlnctiot
and charm with the features that mean
healthy, happy, unspoiled childhood.
Kmart Autumn coats for little girls
are built of plain colored ratine witn
enormous collars and revers -of black
watered silk. A coat of this sort, ot
bright red ratine waa worn by a Htl
girl at one of the country horse shows
last month.
Tho coat was lined with red and
black atrlped allk. and over the red
ratine hung a huge collar of black wa
tered silk with wide cuffs to match.
In front the coat waa double-breasLd
and tha black silk collar eztenJed
doaa one side In a long rever to the
waist lle. "The buttons were of dull
gilt. Another coat In the aame model
waa of rut h blue ratine, and this
Tno4el has been seen alo In pepper
and salt worsted with collar and cuffs
of black satin. Touches of bUk used
with discretion are very smart on a
child a costume and this notion Is de
cidedly FTench.
White Breadclete. (hie.
TVhtte broadcloth coats are Just now
the granJ chic In Tarts for sn.all
girlies. Three such coats were counted
on the Bols the other afternoon with
la 1 feet of each other. One of these
eonta hung Just below Its little wear
ers frock and waa perfectly plain ex
cept for the row of white crochet but
tona nhlch were set close together
down the front and up the outer side
of the sleeve to the elbow. Another
whit coat was etaborately braldej
with white soutache In a band effect.
This coat had also the white crochet
button set cloee together.
Ibe third coat wag nora by a
of mahog-ony-colored pernio fabric with
trinim,lnns of velvet In a darker, har
monising ohade. The dp collar la
very smart, and the aklrt haa a tunic
fastening at the aide Ilka tha bodice.
The hat la of white felt.
Hweet 1 need not ba dla-nlfled aa
atald 1. and tailored suits for yount
misses hava many aay and knowing
tot and buttoned obliquely from the
left ahoulder to. the right knee with
white pearl buttons set In groupa ot
three. Over this coat midway between
hip and knee drooped a looa whit
leather belt. Th bonnet waa made of
rows of whlta silk fringe sewed round
and round a mushroom shape, a cockada
of blue feather being fastened Jaunt
ily at on side. A tunnlng whit
ratine coat for a girl of 11 comes from
Cherult. Thla coat ha a Capuchin
hood of tha material lined with royal
hi vie satin and terminating In a long
blue tassel. Tha buttons ara ot
pearl and tha buttonholes ara bound
with tha blu allk. Tha aama vivid
blue silk lines th coat.
Uttla glrla wear tha aama
Winter and Summer BO th coat and
th und.rwear must glv protection
from the cold. Fahlonbla llttl folk
do -not vn don long .locking in cold
wathr. but warm leggings are worn
In the street.' Th mother who can
not afford tha luxury of a nurse or
maid tor her Uttla one, puts away
the aocks with th first hint of cold
weather and aubatltutee long. vrrn
whit stockings, for th task of but
toning and unbuttoning childish leg
gings Is a tiresome one.
White Cordarer PoptJlar.
' This year pretty frocks of whlta
corduroy are being ahown for Uttla
girls of 1 to 1J year. The child
younger than S or Is usually too
chubby and roly-poly to look well In
velvet which Is roost becoming to
slender matda of a year or two older.
These white corduroy frocks are
trimmed with big whlta buttons and
with them are worn handsom collar
of Venlse or Irish lace.
Tartv dresses ot lace are to ba very
j Answers to Correspondents
PORTLAND. Sept. St. When I read
Mrs. O. J.'s letter In today Ore
gonian I could not help recognix
ing the "cakea" from her description.
She no doubt refers U "Vtener brod"
literally translated. "Vienna, bread."
I do not know how It got that
name, except It ba that It does
not exist In Vienna: in tact. Co
penhagen Is th only place In
the world wher -Vlener brod" la per
fect. About two years ago I returned
to Copenhagen for a trip after : years'
absence and my mouth Is watering
right now when I think of Copen
hagen "Vlener brod." 1 thought that
perhaps distance had lent enchantment
and that -Vlener brod" and Danish
-Smorrlbrod" occupied such an affec
tionate place In my memory, because
I had eated them when very young,
but I found that they really are
unique. This opinion waa verified by
mr American wife. -Vtener brod" l
onlv baked by tlie bakers, and. like all
other l&laf U bas cheap and Inferior
features which would be bliarre on a
woman of more dlirnlfled year. Tha
charming: suit pictured here Is built of
pray-blue railne a soft French blanket
fabric and the trimmings of black
i . h. . lha milt
l .CHIT, BI1U a1 itJifcv - -
i bright and youthful. The slash aklrt
I- buttoned over a black panel, and tha
shield-shaped front of tha coat. ra In
dividual and youthful In effect.
fashionable It seems, following the
erase for lace gowns In the realm of
woman'a dress. A lovely party dress
of tnallnes lace haa three flouncea on
the klrt and a captivating fichu of
net bordered with the lace draped over
tha llttl bodlca. This lace dress is
not pure whlta, but a soft shade of
cream, and the sash around tha waist
la a delicate blue and Is matched by
a blue ribbon for the hair.
Another party frock of white Irian
lace has narrow black velvet ribbon
threaded through headings and a aoft
black velvet sash lined with black
atla; but every mother would not ap
prove of this black-and-white creation,
which Is decidedly French. Whlta
Venlse lace la much uaed on Uttla
girl'a frocks, especially In tha from of
collars with wide cuffs to match.
Light Weight Wool I'aed.
The young girl's elmple frocks for
school wear ara made of light weight
material or of tha aervlceable mohair
and designs are most simple with
smartness added in the way ot plain
satin or allk pipings, bands or collar
and rows of small buttona. Buttons
always give a smart and dashing look
when used plentifully and dozens of
tiny metal buttons, set In rows, are
used for the brightening of little girls'
dresses. 8oft sashes ot satin or chif
fon, weighted with fringe are also
used on the models designed for young
misses In their teens and these sashes
lend a graceful and charming touch.
ftklrts are usually In tunlo style, or
with band trlmmlnga that suggest the
tunic and bodices cross over In sur
plice fashion, fastening with cord loops
or fancy buttons. These dark school
frocks are made very dainty and
girlish by the addition of narrow,
hand-embroidered collar and cnfT sets.
varieties. ' This explains why the
-bagful" was found '-sadly wanting."
Tho nearest approach I hava found In
Portland to thla excellent Danish pro
duction Is found at on of the large
bakeries In the shape of large pretsels.
three for 10 cents. But alas! "What
a falling off was there!" The Dan
ish production Is much smaller (per
haps one-third) In size than the pret
tels and much richer and more de
licious. But I will spare you any
further expressions of admiration.
What I should like to do is, first, to
take aome lessons In the Danish Ian
guage and a return trip ticket to Co
penhagen: and. next, to take ome
first-class Vlener-brod baker by the
throat and extract from- him or her.
by force or guile, the tru and original
recipe for these mouth-watering cakes.
As th!s course of action does not seem
feasible at the moment, all I can do
Is to thank "a former Dane" for hi
Interesting letter, and for tlie name
of the cake, and hope that among my
readers there may be another Dana
who will come to the rescue with a
recipe. Possibly the famous dairy pro
duce of Denmark haa something to do
with the particular richness and de
llclousness of the real . Copenhagen
Vlener brod.
Portland. Sept. IS. Will you kindly
tell me, through The Oregonlan. how
to make dill pickles? Do you consider
the bread-mixers a success in making
bread lighter and finer grained? . I
have always mixed my bread by hand.
Thanking you. V. R.
You will find directions for dill
pickles In another column. In regard
to the bread-mixer. I know, of one kind
at least that Is a complete success.
The bread la made with much lesa ex
penditure of time and strength. Is lf
properly treated) light and fine
grained and very uniform In quality
much more so than where hand-knead-Ing
is relied -upon. The bread. ' too. is
necessarily cleaner and more hygienic
than that kneaded by hand, alnce with
even the cleanest hand, a . certain
amount of perspiration, sensible or In
sensible, Is Inseparable from the exer
tion of kneading, especially where any
considerable quantity 'la kneaded' at
once. I know many -delicate women
who. living In the country, must make
bread for a large household and who
find the bread-mixer a real "Ufe
saver." Of course on has to learn
Just how to use It. and the first few
attempts may perhapa not quite equal
the results of long practice In hand
kneadlng. But once learned It can be
made to turn out a higher quality of
bread In a shorter time, and it quickly
pays for Itself In the time and labor It
saves. I can testify to Its success from
personal experience and from the ex
perlence of my students. Occasionally,
however, I have met women who
"couldn't do anything" with a bread
mixer, and ao, after one or two unin
telligent trials, went back to their old
laborious ways. My grandmother ob
jected to my mother's sewing machine
on similar grounds. 6hs said It was
very much easier and quicker to sew
long seams and hem ruffles by hand.
The sewing machine was "more trouble
than It was worth" and "wouldn't sow
straight." anyway; so after one or two
struggles with It she condemned It as
-useless" and doclarad machine-sawn
articles" unfit to be worn by persons
of taste and discrimination. But I
think few women today would agree
with her. A small else . bread-mixer
can be had for $1.60 to 18. . The larger
sixes cost S3. GO to 14. The kind 1 have
In mind Is easily adjusted and cleaned
and Is of convenient shape for setting
In a. pan of warm or cold water at sea
eons when an even temperature of 68
to 72 degrees Fahrenheit Is difficult to-
maintain, and heavy bread or sour
bread can thus be easily avoided.
; Portland. Or., Sept. S5. Pleas
give a recipe for the pickled onions
put up whole In vinegar. Also, can
cauliflower be pickled In the. same
manner. Thanks In advance.
Tou will find directions for pickled
onions In another column. Cauliflower
makes very good pickles, either alone
on In a mixture.
Portland. Or.. Sept. ft. Will you
kindly tell how to make kumyss for an
Invalid? TbanXIng you In advance.
MF.3. T. C. P.
Kumyss of the original kind was
made from mare's milk by natural fer
mentation. The Imitations that are
chiefly used under that name are gen
erally prepared from cow's milk with
the aid of yeast, or of aome apecla'.ly
prepared ferment. A certain amount
of sugar Is added to aid fermentation.
The result Is a combination of lactic
and alcoholic fermentation and the
casein of the milk is modified and Is
rendered more digestible. It Is or
dered for some forms of Indigestion,
nausoa. fever, gastric troubles and In
wasting diseases.
Kumyss One-sixth ea'ke perfectly
fresh compressed yeast, IVi table
spoons sugar, 1 tablespoon water, 1
quart milk. Cook the sugar and wa
ter one minute to make a syrup. Heat
the milk to lukewarm in a double
boiler. Soften the yeast In t table
spoons lukewarm milk. AcM this, with
the syrup., to the rest of the milk and
stir well. Do not let the milk become
hotter than lukewarm. Put at once
Into sterilised bottles. The patent-top
beer bottlea are best, since ordinary
corks have to be firmly tied down with
strong string. aCeep the bottles In an
upright position In a warm place 70
degress Fahrenheit is the proper tem
perature and let ferment IS hours.
Then lay the bottles on their sides for
12 hours In the lower part of the re
frigerator, or at a temperature of SO
degreea Fahrenheit. The kumyss Is
ready for use In 24 hours. It can be
kept for a day or two, but Is less pal
atable than when perfectly fresh. It
should look like thick, foamy cream
and ahouid have an agreeable, slightly
acid "prickly" toete. A champagne
tap la useful In opening, or a long
needle may be run through tha cork to
let some of the gas escape and avoid
over-foaming. ,
Portland. Or- Sept. 2. Please give
directions for making citron melon pre
serves. A. S.
Preserved citron melon To S pounds
citron melon allow 3 pounds sugar, 8
or t lemons. 1 teaspoon powdered alum,
and 1 ounce dried ginger root, or- 2
ounces green ginger. A combination
of dry ginger In the syrup and the ad
dition of a little Chlneae preserved
ginger wilh the cut up melon is some
times acceptable. Peel the melon, and
cut In thin slices or small-cubes, as
preferred. Boll until clear and tender
with the alum In water to cover.
Drain and wash In cold water. Make
a syrup by cooking the sugar and the
juice of 7 large or 8 medlum-sixe lem
ons with th thin cut or grated yel
low rinds yellow part only of three
lemons, and the ginger. Cook until
clear and heavy, then add the citron
with one thinly sliced whole lemon.
When the citron looks clear and sugar
aaturated, place In heated Jars and
cover with the boiling hot syrup. This
may need a few minutes cooking down,
as the citron slices tend to thin lt If
dry ginger Is used It may be removed
before the syrup Is poured. Some mak
ers prefer to add essence of ginger to
the syrup, aduing It drop by drop un
til the desired flavor Is reached.
Old-fashioned citron melon marma
lade Select large heavy citron melons
rfnd remove seeds. To 3 pounds melon,
weighed after removal of . seeds, etc.,
use 3 pounds sugar, 2 lemona and 1
level teaspoon ground white ginger, or
cinrer essence, to taste. Grate tne
melons on a coarse grater. This is
easier if they are left unpeeled. but
do not grate too close to the rina.
Grate off tlie yellow part of the lem
ons and add with the ginger to t..e
sugar. Mix all ingredients In a pre
serving kettle. Cook gently, skim-
mine when necessary. to a thick.
amooth Jam. Put up like Jelly.
Use Sewing Silk.
Woman's Home Companion.
. The best way to reduce mending Is
to guard against It. You will find that
one reason why children's clothes con
stantly rip is because the seams are
sewn with cbtton thread. Cotton
thread Is hard and brittle, ws any
.woman can discover for herself by
snapping It over her fingers. When
put under the slightest strain it
breaks. Any dress that will be given
hard wear, such ss children do give,
should be made up entirely with silk.
Little gingham, cambric and linen
frocks, for instance, will wear much
better if sewn with silk thread. Asidu
from this, being tubbed often, the
water rots the cotton, while - the silk
Is In Its element when wet.
Big. Roomy Coats Are Alike Practical and Graceful Frocks for Every-Day Wear Are Made With Numerous
Pockets for Convenience of Fair Young Misses.
5 ll f j U.
5r I b ir--w .fit ; -4 n
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i P-A , ' a - hr I. ,.tk
. ii.tW-vw ( . ly.
NEW TOKK. Sept. 80. (Special.)
Bib, roomy coats, essily slipped
on. are desirable for school wear,
yet these practical coats may have
much grace and smartness If cut and
style are right. The good-looking
school coat Illustrated Is built of mixed
worsted, with a white fleck over a
brovrn ground. Collar and cuffs are of
brown velvet; with rows of tiny gilt
buttons. The. coat Is long and roomy
and Is designed to cover completely the
frock beneath. " The bonnet Is made of
brown velvet, faced with white and
trimmed with white cord.
The small boy' has a host of handy
Raised tea biscuits -Ingredients, one
cupful of scalded milk, one-fourth cup
ful of butter, three yeastcakes, one
tablespoonful of sugar, one-half tea;
spoonful of salt, white of one egg. and
four cupfuls of flour. - . -
Make a nice sponge, letting It. stand
In a .warm place In a pan placed In
warm water; then add the flour.-knead
It for 20 minutev and divide- Into bis--cult-slxed
pieces.- Let these rise In the
baklngpan until twice the first size, and
bake. '
A single loaf of raised bread may be
made of the same Ingredients . In this
Boston brown bread Ingredients
two cupfuls of white cornmeal. two
cupfuls of yellow meal, two cupfuls of
graham flour, one cupful of molasses,
one cupful of sour milk and one of
sweet milk, two cupfuls of boiling wa
ter, salt to taste and one teaspoonful
of soda.
Mix th two meals, the flour and the
salt well together: add the 'boiling wa
ter. Put tho sweet milk and molasses
together and add them to first. things.
Then dissolve the soda In the sour milk
and put these In. Put the mixture into
a rounfl covered tin bucket and bake
In the . oven for half an hour. This
bread may be eaten hot or cold and be
toasted -when stale. In New England
baked beans go with It. '
Pulled bread Take a perfectly fresh
loaf of baker's French bread. 'Break
off Irregular pieces of the spongy. In
side and drythem in a very slow, oven
until a delicate brown. These must
be reheated' In the oven when aerved,
And the "pull" Is good with chocolate,
coffee, tea or boullllon. The Inside
of fresh homemade biscuits leff over
from a meal may be treated In the same
way.- and the crusts of them toasted
and kept for shells for creamed dishes.
Popovers Ingredients two cupfuls of
milk, two cupfuls of flour, two eggs
(whites and yolks beaten separately),
salt to taste. ";
Mix -salt and' flour well together.
Put the beaten yolks with the. milk
and then add them slowly to the flour,
making a smooth batter. . Then turn
In the whipped whites, folding these
gently Into the mixture. Put the bat
ter Immediately lntd hot greased, pans,
half filling them, and bake in hot oven
for 30 minutes. As popovers fall-when
cold they must be eaten -as soon as
baked. ' ' : '
Raised cornbread Ingredients one
cupful of fine sifted cornroeals. one
Face Painted Tabooed; 7
Remove Skin Instead
fw vptts iro onlv one class- of
women painted their faces." says Dolly
Madison In Chicago News. "It was a
sign of social ostracism : and' was
tabooed In refined circles. The custom
has become so universal wo must ad
mit It Is to be deplored and '.to be
shelved a soon as possible."
How foolish to seek., artificial
"beauty" of this sort, obnoxious from
artistic and moral standpoints, when It
is so easy to obtain a truly natural
complexion by the use of ordinary
mercollzed wax. Mercollzed wax, ob
tainable at any drug-store, is- so effective,-non-in
lurious and inexpen-stve.
no one need think-of using anything
else for the purpose. Applied like cold
cream at night, and washed ofrin the
morning, it at once begins to show its
remarkable rejuvenating effects. It
f-entlv absorbs the lifeless surface skin
n tiiiv particles, showing the fresher,
livelier, beautiful underskin. Natural
ly it takes with It all surface defects.
Adv. . -- ''
. ... r,VOZ
pockets In which to tuck away his be
longings,, but the little schoolgirl Is
forever losing her handkerchief, purse
and pencil because she has no conven
ient place n which to tuck them when
not in use. Someone has thought of
this delightful school dress. In which
several pockets . are introduced. One
pocket, as the picture shows, is In the
I skirt ana is inieauea iwr- witj iittiiunvi
chlef. Outside of this pocket Is a but-
tonea POCXCI. tor .purue miu ijcii .14
Over these pockets falls the panel (but
toned up In the picture), which has
pockets for-pencils at either side.
This dress may be developed In ging
ham, chambray. linen- or the cheerful
and a. half cupfuls of milk, 'two eggs,
one tablespoonful of butter, one tea
spoonful of baking powder, one tea
spoonful of sugar, salt.
Scald the milk and pour It over the
meal. Let cool and then add tho but
ter (melted), salt, sugar, baking pow
der and yolks of eggs. Stir-all to
gether quickly and thoroughly; .and
.then fold "In-the whites of '.the eggs
beaten to-a stiff froth. Bake in a flat
pan in a hot oven for' 30 minutes.
Gluten bread Pour a 'pint of boil
ing water Into' a pint of boiling milk;
add a teaspoonful-of butter and salt to
taste.. Let the liquid stand until luke
warm; then add an egg. well beaten,
a quarter of a yeast cake dissolved In
tepid water; and enough gluten flour
to make a soft-batter. Cover the bat-
wwr nnr
I4 Ca
Kill the Dandruff Germs Stop Hair Falling
Thousand t mothers are looking younger. Thejr stay
hairs are gorieJ The natural color ha. come back, and with 11
i niw growth cj aoit. glossy, luxuriant hair. Why should you
look old before your time, when you can lok yaara younger
by using Dandruff Cur4
It is Positively Guaranteed to Restore Faded and Cray Half
to .Natural Color
tf Atnr atvealled' ' Restorers have failed, don't give tip
REMEDY trial -Vol nc TrisJc If it i. not exactly as rep
resented. your money will refunded.
a-aivs . a ms w
' flkattal B d
Vy hale was- gettroc quit traT. ad -fall
ins .out rapidly and I wsaj troubled
with a terrible Itchlns of h sj'P-' Jf
hood was fuir of dandruit. which fell
upon .mx clothe. r35t"'
ly DTuanina '"- r ..t
Rochester I heard of your Sais and Sul-
tha hair. I got a bottle aaoT
used It A few application relieved the
.T?. - - .i. rautna out and
' iradiiily came back to i It. ""ral
It I aow a nfe dark brown color, soft.
ilos and pllsble. 8vl of my friend,
wantto v3K and TWant to know wH
mt Au chars me for .is bottus of It.
you wui e. a. BOSS.
oaavt vw m.w -
' w- - n,.,t,t noes Not Kp It. Send Us the Price In Stamps, and. We
11 Teu DroMwMSend Vou alixse Bottle. Express Prepaid. , .
Wveth Chemical Company, 9SV yorx citt. . v.
.For.Sale and Recommended. by. Owl Drug Co..
'Sharon, kteroer Co,
checked mohair, which Is so well liked
for school wear.
An entirely new notion is pictured
in this dainty white dress for indoor
wear a combination of . bodice and,
skirt most unusual In a child's frock.
The plaited set on a low-necked,
sleeveless gulmpe of thin muslin, and
over this goes the smart little bodice,
full at the waistline. Into a , straight
band of embroidery, finished with a
hem of the frock material. The bodice
Is in surplice style,, with bands of the
embroidery caught together at neck
and sleeve edge, with three stitched
bands of the material. Round crochet
buttons add a pretty finish. - -M
ter and stand It In a warm , place to
rise: then add enough, gluten flour to
make a soft dough and knead it well.
Form several small loaves and let rise
again. Baka for an hour.
Pretty Things In Jewelry.'
Jeweled watches are a toy of-tha
moment. The best of these, thin as a
leaf, are enameled, often In pale pink
or pale green, with, either one big dia
mond in the center or else surrounded
by small diamonds. The smart watch
of today has a chain attached, and is
worn on the neck as a'pendant.. The
face of the watch Is, of course, at the
back of the ornament. And some of
these dainty toys are flrst-rate time
keepers. A gold bag is another useful
possession. Many of the new bags are
in gold In different shades 'of color,
while others are in gold and platinum
to give the effect of a striped material.
Three applications
removed all th
dandruff and. left
my scalp clsan,
white and smooth.
Wfn. Croak,
Rochester, N. Y.
-,.. - a
xTWW MMmiv on piw nwmm
For two or -three year my hair
bad been -fallinc out and setting
quite thin until th top of mr
head was entirely bald. About
four months gO I commenced
bottl seemed . io- do som ood.
and I kept uslnc It regularly until
now I hav used four bottlea Th
whole tpp of my head Is fairly
covered and keep eomlnr in.
thicker. 'I shall keep en aslng U
a while looser, as I notice .OOB
ana euipnur. .-