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SEPTEMBER 17, ' 1911.
HELMET HAT IS LOSING FIGHT EVEN
THOUGH SHAPED AFTER MARS' CROWN
Little, Pok Bonnet to the Fore In Battle of Women'! Headgear TM Seaon Willow Plumes Now Beplaced fcy
Ooura KoTBltie Creatioui, Bix and Tiny. Here from Paris.
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WITH no particular typ fn th
ascendancy, th different models
from th helmet to th lar;
picture hats ar waa-lna- a lively com
bat and th gentle little poll bonnet
seems likely to outclass th early sea
oa helmet shape, which though pat
ternrd after th shining emblem of th
war gnd.'Mars. Is rapidly becoming
worsted. Perhaps the tact that the
poke effects are sometimes built with
metallic cloth has something- to do
with Its temerity, but as even th larc
Tarlslaa hats show Its Influence bjr th
droop Iris; brtms at th sides. It Is a saf
prediction th pok la her to star
On feature Is th noticeable abseuca
of th wl'.low plume, which has been
replaced by the French plum and th
delightful sroura noveltle.
At on of th large department store
cf Portland, which boasts th patron-
a of th ultra-fashionables of th
city, wer shown models direct from
th 'Parisian modistes.
Metalll data la.
Flgur 1 shows th characteristic
pok bonnet mad of th new FTenen
blu and gold cloth, called metallic
cloth, which Is a background of the
bin and th gilt thread woven through
It. Even th frlng of this little bon
net Is of th gold and blue frlng and
lust abov It Is a garnltur of cord
to match.
Flgur S shows another model on th
earn order In a two-toned velvet rib
bon wound around the fram and ter
minates In a high how at the top. giv
ing a near-helmet line. This particular
model Is of black velvet on on side
and th new French pink silk on th
other, th bow alternating with first
th pink side of th ribbon out and
th black In. and vie versa, making a
rich combination. At the baa of tl
crown a graceful roll of th ribbon
revealing the pink side, makes a de
lightful effect near th face. This Is
a Susanna Calbot creation and demands
a colffur of extreme simplicity as
shown In the model.
Figure I shows th use of th new
FOOD TASTINESS GAINS
WITH USE OF CATSUPS
Seasoa for Preserrinf Tomatoes at Its Best When Trait Is Ripe
Appetites Whetted by Spices.
T ULIAJf TINOt-B.
CATSUPS are Ilk th famous Ilttl
girl with th littl curl. lthr
very, very rood- or "horrid.- Th
tarn may b said of their us. In ex
cess they ar an extravagance and
they rula alike the palate and diges
tion. I'sed with restraint and discre
tion, they may b a real help to th
housekeeper and may make plain,
wholesom food more palatable and. In
consequence, easier of digestion. The
trouble Is that discretion and modera
tion ar apparently impossible to soma
people.
Tomato catsup Is the most gener
slly popular American store sauce.
Just as Worcester sauc la th most
popular of English sauces. The latter,
however. Is never mads at horn whll
th former Is frequently not only
made, but grown under, the horn
maker's supervision.
There are several type of tomato
catsup. They rang from what Is
practically a highly concentrated plain
puree, capable of being diluted with
milk or water to give cream soup or
tomato broth, and depending for Its
flavor upon the richness of th fruit
itself, up. or down, to a highly--soned
vinegsr-and-splcy mixture, in
which th r.avor of th tomato Is bare
ly perceptible. Lach kind has Its ad
mirers. A few conservative recipes
are given below.
Tomato catsup No. 1 Vse only per
fectly sound, perfectly ripe tomatoes.
Cut them up and stew them down with
a lutli salt. When soft, strsln and rub
through a sieve; and give long, slow
bi!;n -or rather simmerlnn until
thick. Put up. wbUe tot. In small
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goura trimming, which Is not unlike
aigrettes In appearance and readily
accepted novelty sine the heron Is
now protected by law. The model
shows a Madame Carller creation of
palest pink brocaded satin with Just
a touch of pale blue In the flgur on
th satin. A black velvet facing and
an edging of fringed silk and beads
all black, form with the goura an
effect which will be popular as the
modified sis of th brim makes this
hat becoming to any on and Is ex
tremely attractive.
In flgur 4 la another large hat. th
T. Puxann Calhot. which Is larger than
the others shown and Is made of black
uncut velvet. The beauty of this hat
lies In the manner of building th
crown higher with the plumes, which
sre deep coral French plumes so
grouped that they deepen In ton until
-Winter
Jars or bottles, using th precautions
necessary for canned fruit.
This la a very mild catsup, not likely
to upset th dyspeptic and It makes a
useful foundation for quick soups and
sauces. For som tastes a littl onion
cooked with th tomatoes and a final
seasoning of sugar and vinegar may be
preferred: but where line tomatoes a re
available, the unmodified pure rives
an excellent flavor.
Tomato catsup No. t For 10 pounds
rip tomatoes, allow three-fourths
pound onions or achallnts, .one-fourth
pound celery, three tablespoona salt,
on cup vinegar, on tablespoon cin
namon, one-fourth teaspoon each
clovea and mace, on very small bay
leaf, one clove garlic and a few sprigs
ot parsley. Cook all together until
nearly half reduced. Pass through a
sieve, reheat to boiling point and store
In sterilised bottles, well seeled, or In
cans, like canned fruit. This, as may
be seen. Is a mild sasond sauc: a
littl cayenne may b added If liked.
Tomato catsup No. I Half a bushel
rip tomatoes, skinned by scalding.
Cook down with one-half cup salt, two
cups sugsr, one-half teaspoon cayenne,
three tablespoons celery seed, two ta
blespoons cinnamon, one tablespoon
mac, two quarts vinegar. Wjren re
duced, strain, reheat and can aa above.
Tomato catsup No. 4 On and one
half dosen large, rlr tomatoes, two
onions, two larg green peppers, with
vslns and seeds removed, one cup sugar,
three tablespoona salt, two tablespoons
mustard seed, on tablespoon pepper
corns, one teaspoon whole cloves, one
large stick cinnamon, broken small,
two cups vinegar. One clove garlic
and a littl cayenn may bs used If
liked. Simmer all together until well
rcductd; strain and rub the pulp
they look Ilk tongues of flame.
From Paul Polrefs Parisian shop Is
shown Flgur 5. which has a cone
shaped crown and extends In a straight
line to the rim of the hat. This model
of black velvet is lined with a new
shad of green called "absinthe" and
Is topped by three elegant French
plumes of the same color. It shows
the Influence of the pok on exaggerat
ed lines.
The remaining model. Figure (. Is a
Caroline Reboux hat decidedly ultra
In effect and Is made entirely or satin,
th opening at th top. from which
nrnlert three white plumes, being as
large almost as the lower part of th
hat. Around the rim la silk frlng
about an Inch In length, which also
winds around the hst several times oe
fore It comes In contact with a large
satin bow.
through a sieve; reboll and bottla as
above
If catsup Is put up In sterilised bot
tles Instead ot cans a littl oil poured
on th surfsco sometimes Improves Its
keeping powers. If corks are used,
they should be new and well eoaked In
hoillns- water. Corks and bottle-tops
should be dipped In melted parafflne or
coated with bottllnr wax to make tnera
nerfectlv air-tight.
Catsups of a similar typ may be
made from almost any iruit puip. ana,
whll not so generally popular aa to
mato catsup, thay ar nlc for a change.
are sometimes economical, and make
an acceptable relish tor certain kinds
of meat. Thes also may b mild or
highly solced, and with qr without
a touch of onion or garlic and celery.
GraDO Catsup No. 1 Four pounds of
washed Concord or wild grapes these
ar bast but other grapes might be
used; six cups sugar, on teaspoon
each cloves and cinnamon, on cup
Tlnegar. Simmer until tender and
somewhat reduced. Rub through
sieve. Boll about It minutes and bot
tle. Grape Catsup No. 1 Four
pounds washed and picked gspes. vin
egar barely to cover two caps sugar,
one-half teaspoon each cloves, allspice.
nutmeg, one-eighth teaspoon cayenne.
Prepare like No. 1. Orap Catsup No.
t Same as No. t with the addition of
one small onion very finely minced and
one-half a smsll head of celery finely
cut with salt to taste. Cook and put
up like No. 1. Prune catsup, peach
catsup or even elderberry catsup msy
be similarly made. Instead of using
th whole fruit the thick pulp alone
may be taken after some of the Juice
has been tsken for other purposes.
Walnut and mushroom catsup belong
to a different class. It Is rather late
for the former: but mushrooms sre still
to come, end catsup offers a good way
of using up th stalks and broken bits
of mushrooms, provided, of course, that
they are clean and free from little
wvrws.
Mushroom Catsup No. 1 To two
quarts cleaned and sliced mushrooms
allow one-third cup salt. Put both In
layers In a covered crock snd stir dally.
After three days, strain the resulting
liquid. Measure It. and for every pint
a;low one tablespoon pepper corns and
one-half teaspoon mace. Boil until
reduced one half, leave until next day
to settle, then put up In small bottles.
This is mild, and cepends almost en
tirely on the pure mushroom flavor for
Its success. The sediment and mush
room squeezing" may b used for
seasoning gravies. They may be dried
ss "mushroom powder," or bottled as
they are and removed by straining from
the ssuce or gravy they season. Here
Is a more highly seasoned sauce:
Mushroom Catsup No. 2 Pick. wash,
drain and slice one peck mushrooms.
Cook until soft, with one cup water.
Rub through a sieve. Add one pint vin
egar, two tablespoons salt one-fourth
teaspoon cayenne, two teaspoons mixed
mustard, one teaspoon powdered cinna
mon, one-half teaspoon each cloves
and mace. Cook about one hour and
put up while hot. Any of tlve tomato
catsups given above may be made Into
tomato paste by being boiled down to
the consistency of Jam and spread on
plates to dry in a warming oven. The
dried cakes look uninviting, but keep
well If wrapped In oiled paper and
stored In boxes. The "paste" has the
advantage of occupying little space and
requiring no cans or bottles. Most
Italian housewives make quanltles oi
this. It may be dissolved In hot water
for soup sauce or gravy or a morsel
may be used to hlghten the flavor ot
a plain meat or vegetable stew.
The light Housekeepers
Standby
THIS Is olive oil, the unfailing- re
source of the French chef and ,
All others n-hn understand aood
eating. To the light housekeeper olive
oil has innumerable advantages over
butter, the place of which It may
easily take after a little experience in
Its uses. It Is leas difficult -to keep In
restricted quarters than the pat of
messy butter, which liquifies with the
least heat and so Is spoiled for eating-.
Mysterious spots on tne business wo
man's good clothes may often be laid
to the quarter of a pound of butter she
puts down on her one table or dresser
when coming in ana lorgeis unui too
late. Butter, too, is soon a very ex
pensive commodity when bought in
small quantities and so, for that mat
ter. Is olive oil. Buy your oil by the
quart, then, and choose one of the
many good Italian brands, which are
less oily and more delicate in taste
than the French sorts. A quart tin of
excellent oil can be had from 45 cents
up. In opening it for use, make two
tinv nerforations In the top In two op
posite corners, the one or pouring
allrhtlv larger than the other and very
close to the edge. Keep a clean, white
cloth or two layers or clean, wnite pa
per tied over the top of the can when
not using to keep out dust. Also re
new these when soiled and keep the
can In a tin box with other supplies
away from the radiator. Quite once
a week wash off the outside to free it
of the wastes in pouring, as this oil is
spoiled by exposure to the air and.
besides, is a narDOr ior oust, wnicn a
little mismanagement with the new
pouring) may lick up.
Many quiCK oreamasi aisnes can no
nrenared with the handy can of deli
cate and fragrant olive oil. for the best
Italian kind has a most suotie Douquet.
The light housekeeper Is tired of
boiled eggs, and the next resource is
shirred eggs. Get one of the tiny
French cooking plats brown and
white earthenware for these and let
it get hot for the cooking. Then pour
In a teaspoonful of olive oil, and when
smoking drop in two eggs as for fry
ing, letting them cook only on one
side. Dust the top with salt and pap
rika and eat from the dish. Eggs so
cooked have a nw and delicious fla
vor, and they wiK be further improved
If the cooking plat is rubbed with a cut
clove of garlic before the oil is put In.
Scrambled eggs and omelets, rancy ana
poached eggs are much improved with
a dash of it on top. Hard boiled eggs,
served hot In halves, are also delicious
with a dosing of the oil, a squeeze of
lemon Juice, however, going with
these. In all egg preparations rubbing
the cooking dish or serving plate with
garlic is an Improvement to those who.
love the taste.
Among. the fruits which respond ex
cellently to cooking; in olive oil are
apples and bananas. Either of these
friBrf In the fragrant liquid will hold
more of its own taste than if butter
were used. These fruits, ny tne way,
make substantial and dainty breakfast
dishes, too. and if sugar is liked with
them the cooking with oil is no bar
to It.
There Is always a day when the busl
ness woman feels that she would rath
er nrenare her own little dinner tnan
go out, and here olive oil is worth its
weis-ht In gold. "The little can of taste
less soup is made better for a dash of
It with the heating papriwa ana lem
nn lulce mav be other seasoners all
canned vegetables take to it like ducks
to water, mushrooms may be sauteed
In it. etc. If the house allows cooking
meat assuming the housekeeper Is
not In her own home beersteak win
s-et a new taste by being rubbed with
the oil before cooking and also be
made more tender. The pan may be
moistened with oil for the cooking of
lamb and veal chops, veal Kianeys, ana
.h of anv sort.
with the fresh salads every woman
needs for health, beauty and refresh
ment a good olive oil Is indispensable.
Wash green things some little time
before using and dry them carefully.
Then put the oil on before any other
seaaoner. tossing the salad in a deep
bowl after salt and pepper are in for
the condiments to permeate. i nree
tablespoonfuls of th oil may be used
for a salad for a single person If the
oil taste Is liked. Tart apples mixed
with a few slivers of Bermuda onion
cold boiled onions, new carrots, celery
root rreen beans or cannea ones.
mixed orange and grapefruit, and to
matoes, lettuce and green pepper
mixed, all make cheap and "wholesome
salads that respond to the oil taste.
When she wants a bread tartlne for
a cup of tea, the housekeeper can use
. drops of th oil for butter, salt
ing the bread afterward and adding a
squeeze or lemon. Ana ncn bub i
not considering the interior woman
.h n turn her oil supply to external
needs. The oil will beautify her hair
If rubbed Into her scaip ana n is ex
cellent for body massage and for rub
bing tired feet. If by chance the lady
Is not too well nourished, a plentiful
supply of oil taken In teaspoonfuls
during the day will feed her tissues
and soothe the mucous membrane of
her throat. Quantities of olive oil
ar given tuberculosis patients, and as
a body unguent ana pounonins o"u
-rent there Is nothing equal to It.
Where It is aisxasieiui. me pure un
may be made more palatable with a
pinch of salt.
A Handy-Andy In Ironing;.
New Orleans Picayune.
There is a handy Ironing outflt,
ready for the traveling trunk ot th
thrifty woman who dislikes to pay
exorbitant prices for the freshening
of little blouses and frocks which are
not really soiled at , all. but simply
need pressing out The Ironing outflt
Includes a light-covered board which
may be easily packed, a squatty little
Iron, also easily packed, and an alco
hol stove for the heating of the iron.
If there Is electric wiring In the hotel
an electric Iron may be attached to
the socket, provided one's ironing is
don by day and the light Is not need
ed. Bits of neckwear, handkerchiefs
and soft blouses which do not need
starch may all be freshened satisfac
torily In this way at a aubstantial
saving of expense.
THREE-QUARTER COAT OF CARACUL
AND HUDSON BAY SEAL IS MODISH
BlacXPlush Top Garment With Hat to Match, Handy for Emergency Trips-Russian Effects in Outdoor Wear
Are Fashionable This Season.
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NEW YORK. Sept. .16. (Special.)'
Apparently shapeless and withal
so cleverly cut that it does not
add bulk to the "figure or disguise its
graceful lines, the new coat of fine
black caracul Is attractively trimmed
with three-inch bands of Jet black
velvet black, as It Is termed Hudson
Bay sealskin.
The straight, loose sleeves set in to
th i wide arm-eyes and gathered at the
ORNAMENTS AND FAVORS
FOR THE WEDDING TABLE
IF a very fine cloth is used for the
Autumn wedding board, it is quite
the thing nowadays to strew It with
loose flowers and fragile bits of torn.
AVhlte bride-buds with long stems, pur
ple and white orchids and knots of
violets are all used, though there must
never be too many posies, for this gives
a crowded and clumsy eifect. A spray
of the buds is flung here, an orchid lies
there, everything with Just the right
thing noxt to it and all. looking as If
they had tumbled from Paradise. Of
course. It means much study of effect,
and a big degree of good taste in the
decorators. With such lovely strew
lnns. are also bs.nds of wide white satin,
ribbon, which trail along In their own
gracefully careless way, and fall over
the table edge sometimes In a big bow.
The cloth that accompanies such Tl-tania-Ilko
fixings can never be of dam
ask with a woven border, for this calls
for exceeding simplicity. It must be of
satin or plain linen with a lace border
and perhaps lace incrustations else
where, and. of course, it needs the felt
padding underneath that makes all the
tablecloth family hang properly.
With the cloth of fine damask, such
as most bride can afford, and which,
after all, is good enough for anybody.
Autumn leaves and bunches of berries
can be used In this way with delightful
effect. With the finer flowers of the
strewn-tablo lamps go harmoniously,
and there are some beautiful little ones
with prim satin shades, made in Marie
Antoinette designs, called bride lamps.
Tho satin shades of these are veritable
bits of millinery, they are so dainty
with quillings and little knots of buds,
but lovely as they are they are never
used with the Autumn leaf and berry
decorations. Brass candlesticks and
wax candles are proper -for these, and
concerning either convenience Its need
can only be explained by tle fact that
It Is still the fad for people to eat wed
ding food by artificial light.
Always a thing of enchanting fasci
nation, the wedding cake Is now a feat
to break the heart with its loveliness
that is. If one ever gets a chance to
see a real wedding cake, the thing with
snowy pyramids, and the temple, and
the- bride, and the cuplds and the doves,
that queens, princesses and heiresses
have ever loved. This kind of cake Is
fashionable today for the chief orna
ment of th table, and where the usual
bits of cake are not handed round in
little boxes for the guasts to take
kome. these bedizened sweeties are
chopped up by the brides at last and
everybody given a pinch.
. Many delightful effects are obtained
on wedding tables with dressed dolls,
these with the proper setting some
times depicting a very dainty scene.
One such table fixing last Autumn had
a huge glass punchbowl for centerpiece,
wreathed with grapes and leaves and
buds: round it In a dancing circle were
placed the dolls, which were of the sort
used by the shops for miniature dress
models. But they were all dressed like
Isadora Duncan In her prettiest Greek
dances, so they had quite a bacchic air.
Bunches of white and purple grapes
and American Beauty roses strewed
this' table, which, as may be assumed,
was for a young widow-bride. Little
scenes of wedding parties, with a sugar
temple, a priest and bridesmaid and,
of course, the bride and groom are
wrist into deep cuffs are narrowly
banded, and the low-olling collar,
deep rounded across the back, is edged
with the banding pelt. A Russian ef
fect is given by the girdle of black
silk passementerie, which encircles the
back of the waist and fastens the low
closing fronts of the coat.
With a broad trimmed black plush
coat a woman Is prepared for any
emergency which may call her outside
of her own door, for the coat may
often arranged by wedding decorators
with these dolls, and every tiny figure
snows the last needed detail in dress.
Among th decorations which will be
used by smart folks this year, and
which are very aseful when natural
flowers cannot be had, are the paper
water lilies, and cherry boughs sold in
the Japanese shops. These, however,
generally go with Japanese crockery,
and they are most often used at the
tea given with the afternoon reception.
When real water - lilies can be had at
the florist's, It is not uncommon to drop
one or two in the punch bowl, where
they look, pretty and suitable.
A Motor Mascot.
Kansas City Times.
The inventor of the latest mascot
for the motorist evidently thinks one
amulet will not prevent a smashup,
so has combined five of the best-known
emblems of good luck into one.
If you would make sure of coming
home whole machine and body on
your next tour, go equipped with this
new mascot. It consists of the horse
shoe with lucky upturned points and
seven nail holes. At the base, inside
the horseshoe, is one of the charm or
naments of the Kings of Babylon, an
emblem of good luck.
To Wash Silk Stockings.
Exchange.
It Is something of a puzzle how to
wash silk stockings successfully, but
the following method has been used
with, satisfactory results: Make soap
suds of lukewarm water and a good
grade of castile soap. 'Do not use hot
water, as it destroys the life of the
silk. Rinse In clear, cold water until
free from all soap, then pull the stock
No More Gray Hair
Easy to Restore Natural Color
of Your Hair by Simple
Method
Science baa Just
b n finding out
some of the roost
amazing things
about the hair
discoveries that
overturn many old
Ideas.
For Instance with
a newly discovered
harmless product,
the natural color
Is restored by a
simple treatment
that can be ap
plied by anyone in
1 .h..t tfme. This
scientific treat
ment is embodied
in the Queen Gray
li e: x I"; , ili J i"
hlr Restorer, a
uld preparation
. r Tnalces anv
fleslreo. snaae irom tu; V v "V- .
Ins- the hair soft and fluffy, and making a
lasting color that Is not sticky and does
nCTheJQueen Gray Hair Restorer is Instan
taneous In Its effect and requires but one
application, to restore the natural color of
yTnehbest hairdressers use It and sell It to
their patrons. . .
It jjin two sizes. 50c and $1. and can be
obtained from Woodard. Clarke & Co. or In
th, toilet department of the leading drug
and department stores throughout the
country.
quickly be slipped over a silk or mo
hair frock, and with the addition of a
smart hat and nice gloves she looks
well enough to be seen anywhere. The
coat, lined with mauve brocaded satin,
fastens in military fashion with silk
frogs and loopings, and Is of excep
tionally good style, and with it is worn
a plush-faced and banded rolling brim
sailor of black satin, relieved by white
dove breasts applied flatly against the
crown. ,
ings lengthwise and press with a warm
iron, never a hot one. They will be a4
glossy as when new. '
'ifeH'
De Blanche
Ladies' Tailor
A sbop that la different "
Announces the showing of artis
tic and distinctive tailoring in
gowns and suits for Fall and
Winter.
My styles and workmanship
are stamped with a charm of or
iginality that is so much desired
and so difficult to attain.
Extremely moderate prices
during1 September.
Parlors at 345 Washlnartoa St.,
at Seventh, Upstairs.
S. H. SCHWARTZ
EXCLUSIVE LADIES' TAILOR AND
HABIT MAKER.
(Formerly with Mrs. Dichburn.)
AND NOW LOCATED AT
423 PLIEDXER BLDG.
Marshall 2377.
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