f
KELSO MEN PASS
Beautiful Goat Mountain
BT RALPH II. MITCHELX.
u Probably on of tn most lntr-
rutnu. norrl anj thoroughly en
Joyble raratlon trlpa. over a mot
rnlc country, was that enjoyed for
nearly three weeks last month by four
prominent business men of this place.
Where to ro for a vacation was a bis
problem. True, there wre many
tempting places where the brook trout
attracted (and those who would be In
the party were motern Ixaak Waltons)
but It was finally derided that the
would-be vacationers should start for
irood trout stream and follow It
whither It would lead. This was the
definite decision.
So the married men of the party
bought tickets for their wives and
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PORTLAND MAN VISITING ORIENT
WRITES OF JAPANESE PROGRESS
Development of Core by Sons of Nippon Important Factor in Policies of Far East Stay in Honolulu One
of Pleasant Memories of Journey.
PTENGTANG. Cores. Sept. 14. To
the Editor.) In reading some of
the notes of the Journey I made
out here. It was suggested that I send
them en to you. not as anything new
or unusual, but as observations by the
way.
Crossing the larrest ocean In the
world, In a palatial steamer, cannot fall
to Impress the experience on the mem
ory, for there Is peculiar fat lif Act Ion In
feeing able to say "I have crossed the
Psri;ic." On June . with my daughter.
Mrs. West, and four children, on our
way to Corea to visit my son. Dr. J.
Hunter Wells, we aK-ended the gang
way, two flights hlfh, of the magnlfl
rrnt Mongolia, of the Pacific Mall
eiteamshtp Company, at San Francisco,
and were shoan very desirable state
rooms, which were to be our homes for
the next three weeks, and with gleeful
yy our Juveniles proceeded to acquaint
tnemselves with their surroundings.
The first greeting of the first mora
ine out from ban Krancleco was the vig
orous crowing of roosters., which coupled
with the muffled sound of the machin
ery, was not a little unlike that of the
familiar sounds of the barnyard. This
was soon followed by the merry voices
of my grandchildren expressing their
amasement at the mighty ocean. It
was cold and quite windy, and as .we
were running somewhat across the sea
currents, the boat listed at times to
leeward, making It difficult for passen
gers to keep their feet. After t hours
all the children, as well as others, be
came good sailors, sad the voyage to
Honolulu continued and a happier quar
tet of youngsters never crossed the Pa
cific. Honolulu Is Delighted.
The break In the voyage at Honolulu
was most delightful where, In an auto,
with a native ctaufftur. visited the
Country in Vicinity of Elk
children and saw them off to Seaside,
where they mtKht pass their vacations
In true womanly style, enjoying surf
bathlng and where the babes could
while their vacation days playing; In
the sands on the beautiful Oregon coast.
The party of men left also bright and
early on the morning of August 12. bent
on passing the best kind of a vacation,
having unburdened all family cares
for at least two or three weeks. How
long they really did not know, nor did
they care.
Fear la Party of Vaeatloaera
In this vacation party were Percy
P. Brush, now one of the prominent
attorneys of Cowlltx county, for three
years a resident of Kelso: U R. Hub
bard, a well known young business
man of the same place: C. K. Kitchen,
long a resident of Kelso and a large
holder of Cowllts County realty and I.
various points of Interest. The Aqua
rium, most Interesting to us all and
next to one In' Italy the most noted In
the world, was one of the chief attrac
tions. The tropical foliage and the co
roanuts growing on the treea and a pe
culiar fruit called papia (something like
muskmelons) were noteworthy. While"
we enjoyed the short stay ashore we
found ourselves ready to sail again at
f o'clock for a 10-days' voysge to Yoko
hama. In coming west, after dark, it
waa a strange sight to see the heavens
lighted up by the reflection from the
volcanoes of Hawaii. During this part
of the voyage passengers engaged In
playing various deck games and for
those who liked t.'.e water well enough,
swimming In the Immense tank of sea
water on the decu waa very enjoyable.
Three days from Honolulu It seems
slow, as we go continuously night and
day. Unless we turn our wstches back
ti minutes a dsy our time Is off. We
sre now about crossing parallel 190.
where we lese a day. Oh! This wide,
wide sea! Bo monotonous, so blue, so
tireless! We look In vain to see some
object on the surface of these dark
waters. W would be glad to meet an
other ship or see a sail somewhere.
Give me the country! How delightful
It must be now up In Yamhill: the green
grass covers the ground, the oak forest
waves a welcome as one passes, the
great birds sail from ridge to peak and
from cloud to cloud.' The little birds
sing In the sunshine; but here only
wave after wave, and billow after bil
low. Many XotabW-s Abroad.
Even a splendidly equipped ship with
competent and courteous officers and
cuisine to satisfy an epicure, and de
lightfully pleasant people, note bene:
Charles Y. Fee. general passenger
sgent of the Southern Pacific and hla
cnarmtnff family; Judges Johnson,
TITE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAN. PORTLAND. SEPTEMBER 1. 1911. ,
THEIR
Creek, Famous for Striped
O. Barnard, a dentist formerly of Mich
igan. The party left home by auto ana
wended their way toward Castle Rock
to the north, and after further stock
ing their commissary department there,
went In a general northeasterly direc
tion about thirty miles to the ranch
of Zeno Le Gault. from whose camp
Is operated a pack train, beginning
where the traveled road ends.
Le Gault. for years has been work
ing his park trains Into the mining dis
trict of St. Helens. Here the party
parked their horses and began their
"hljce" behind their animals, bent for
what they needed, true recreation, away
from family and business cares.
From Ije Gaulfs place by pack train,
with tent and kitchen paraphernalia
on two horses they Journeyed fourteen
miles east and north toward Soda
Springs on the famous Green River
Moreland and Jenkins, of Manila; Rev.
Dr. W. W. White, of the New York
Bible School.and his brother. J. Camp
bell White, the secretary of the Inter
national Brotherhood Movement; ex
Congressman. Foelkera. of New York,
not to mention many others who con
tributed to the pleasure of the voyage
even with such as these on board,
and the other delights of a sea voy
age, one's affection Is not won from
one's country, nor life on the water in
preference to the land.
Oh! carry me bark to old Willamette,
To old Willamette's hor.
Where the fir trvs plerre the azure skjr
Oh! carry me there once more.
I'd climb the sloping Oreeon hills:
I'd rapturously sue on your valleys so
rare:
rd slake ray thlrt In your sparkling rills;
I'd havt no rain to sparal
Towr mlpt to me the falreat ever.
Tour mud and dust I'd tear:
Ferns will sem aa good as clover
Oregon! my noma la there.
The morning of June 23 was deneely
foggy. Our cautious captain. Morton,
not being able to make out hie exact
position, but knowing that he was less
than 100 miles from the coast of Japan,
slowed down for a time: when the fog
lifted be got his bearings. We soon
met the Siberia, homeward bound. At
noon we found anchorage in the wide
harbor of Yokohama, without docking,
as vessels are tied to a large buoy and
freight and passengers lightered ashore.
Rickshaw Rides Popular.
We were soon seated in four rick
shaws looking at the strangeness of an
Oriental city opening up like the films
of a motion picture. Returning to our
steamer for meals and night's rest, we
resume our sightseeing the next morn
ing, heralded by our aame polite rick
shaw men. At 1 In the afternoon we
sailed for Kobe, passing many steam
ers and some formidable forts as we
VACATION IN GREEN RIVER WILDS
Trout, Made Camp by Quartet
In Cowlltx County. The party trav
eled further north by trail to a point
where Klk Creek empties Into Green
River, which, here, makes a bend north
so that It flows for some distance
through Lewis County.
Camp Made oa Elk Creek
It was here, on Elk Creek, that the
party of four made its camp, set up
the tents, laid out the cookery, built
a fire, for It was time for the first
real vacation dinner, as the sun was
setting over the foothills and the lot
fell to Mr. Kitchen to take his place
in the kitchen and cook the first meal.
It truly was appetizing and there ts
now rumors that Mrs. Ktchen has
heard what a good cook her husband
is and has almost decided to let him
try his hand in the Kitchen home.
It befell Mr. Brush to follow out his
name and clear the camp of all the
skirted the coast of this island, which
is said to be 1000 miles long.
Arriving at Kobe at 2 o'clock we
took rooms at the Oriental Hotel and
soon again boarded the popular rick
shaws for another round of sights, for
which Kobe is, perhaps, superior to
Yokohama. We found our fellow pas
sengers, like ourselves, scattered over
the city, hailing us from their rick
shaws. Taking train at Kobe, an all day's
trip through pleasant villages, rice
fields and a misty rain brought us to
Shlminoseki. where, boarding a fine
steamer, we crossed the straights at
night, passing over the sea celebrated
as the place of the Japanese victory
ever the Russians when Admiral Togo
fought the greatest sea battle of mod
ern times with modern ships. A day's
ride on an American equipped and
standard-fitted railway train, passing
through much the same scenes as In
Japan, we reach Seoul, the capital of
Chosen, as Corea is now called, or what
was formerly ,the Hermit Kingdom, but
hermit no longer, and bustling with
activity, and with a Japanese popula
tion of over 60,000 and some 300,000
Coreans.
We were met at .Seoul by Mrs. J.
Hunter Wells, my son's wife who had
come from Pyengyang to greet us. Dr.
J. Hunter Wells was detained by seri
ous sickness In a mission family. Dr.
Avlson. who was at Portland a few
years ago, was also at the train and
escorted us to his home, where we
spent the night, leaving the next day
for Pyengyang.
Gayety Reigns In Japan.
In Japan I was struck by the cheerful
sppearance of nearly everyone. The
Japanese scurry along unimpeded by
their wooden shoes or loose kimonos.
There is a peculiar charm about their
streets snd dress. Their adaptability la
marked snd the wsy they are coming on
In commercial manufacturing and in
governmental accomplishments makes
one seriously consider the great Influ
epce they are bound to exert on the
policies and politics of Asia In the fu
ture. They sre prepared and have a
right to dominate this country. Con
cerning Corea no other opinion can be
held than that the Japanese occupation
Is of great benefit to the Coreans. for
when we contrast the new neat build
Who Cast Business and Family Cares Aside for Trip Into
near-by brush for fire and other pur
poses. As Mr. Barnard was the den
tist of the party, it was left to him to
prepare the commissary department be
fore starting on the Junket and he was
given full charge in camp, so that the
teeth of the campers would receive
proper care through the edibles pre
pared by Mr. Kitchen.
Hubbard Official Photographer.
Mr. Hubbard was appointed the offi
cial photographer of he party and the
work he accomplished with the camera
received the hlirhest cfimmendatlon of
the party on thlr return when the
negatives were finished. The scenery
along the Green River is unsurpassed
and many attractive places gave the
photographer vantage points for mag
nificent views.
After establishing camp, partaking
of the first dinner "and passing the
nlRht in the open, the first time for
ings With the miserable huts called
homes of the natives, or the well-built
and managed railroads, telegraph lines
and postofflce with its parcels post,
postal savings banks contrast them
with the burden-bearing bullocks and
the backs of the natives with their ex
posed persons and lack of energy, and
we see In the Japanese occupation. In
fusing as It does, new life and cus
toms in the people, a thing that will be
of decided benefit to the people of
Chosen.
The elders and ministers of the Corean
church in Pyengyang invited several of.
the. American missionaries and I to take
an excursion on the Ta Tong, or Great
Fast River, which flows by Pyengyang.
The affair was In my honor. Rickshaws
were sent for us and we rode through
the old town to the landing place,
where there were three large beats,
holding from 29 to 30 persons each. One
carried the guests and -some ministers
anu elders. One carried the hosts and
one had the food and refreshments. On
paddling or rowing up the river we pass
a fine modern filtered water-works sys
tem, built by the Japanese, supplying
the old city and the new. We had a
fine spread of good Corean food. It was
quite select and came from various
houses, thus supplying us . with extra
Corean dainties. We were met here by
Dr. Moffett. the dean of the mission
aries in Pyepgyang. The chairman of
the reception committee welcomed me
to Corea and spoke In most compli
mentary terms of my son. Dr. J. Hunter
Wells, and his work In Corea and of
the pleasure they had in welcoming his
father. His speech was in Corean and
was interpreted to me.
.July 4 Celebrated.
I responded and we then returned to
the city where, it being the Fourth of
July, we were due to meet the Ameri
cans who celebrate the day here with
much enthusiasm. All , the Americans
in town were present. Including the
children there were 46. Speeches, fire
works on the "sane and safe" plan and
the glorious Fourth closed a very ac
tive day for me. The East is not slow
if It Is to be Judged by the. way the
Japanese are stirring It up and the
way the few Americans and Anglo-Saxons
are pushing the interests they rep
resent commercially and religiously.
We went one cay to visit the tomb
i years for two of the party, an arose
I bright and early on the following day
and arter partaKing 01 a iirih
; fast of coffee and rolls began a trami
to Soda Springs, where are found sev
eral sorlngs which are strongly
pregnated with carbonic acid gas, giv
ing the water which flows therefrom a
most peculiar taste, much like that
which flows from, the .famous Shasta
Springs of California.
. This trip covered the first day and
on the second It was planned to make
the Journey to the top of Goat peak,
which is the highest mountain in the
Goat range. The tramp was almost
difficult one. though the distance was
but 7000 feet tp the summit, owing
largely to the fact that the peak was
once fire-swept and there was much
underbrush and burned-over stumpage
which retarded the amateur mountain
climbers.
At almost the summit of Goat Moun
tain -an expanse of water, named by
the Indians "Dead Man's Lake." so
called from the fact that the bottom
has never been fathomed, and stories
are told of many a prospector in the
earlv davs of the St. Helens country
having gone there and never returned,
always, it is believed, having met
death in the "bottomless, pit."
of the celebrated Klja. KUa was the
first historical King of Chosen, and
reigned about 1122 B. C, or at about
the time of Samuel, contemporary with
the Psalms of David. His grave is In
a fine grove of about 30 acres oi orig
inal forest, and Is half an hour's walk
north of the city. Bordering on the
road is a stone tablet dressed and In
scribed with Chinese characters, which
admonish the passer-by. If mounted, to
dismount, for a ' great man's body lies
near and respect must be shown to his
memory. Passing through the grove ot
Immense pines, we pass wooden posts
and a large wooden gateway cf "Thor,"
and see more and various dressed
monuments inscribing important data
concerning the great man. .
Below the tomb are a number of huts
occupied by the keeper. Sounds of a
drum and cymbals smote the ear, and
on going to the houses we found sev
eral Korean women -sorcerers and
spirit worshipers engaged in their
rites.
Leaving these we pass on up a steep
hill, and after some rests arrive at the
mausoleum. In front are the sacrificial
houses, or rooms, which have tables,
and at times- offerings of food are
made to the departed spirit of the
great King. From It, up a flight of
stone stairs. In three tiers, the center
for officers and officials, the sides,
lower' and more narrow, for others, we
pass Into the grave site. This is
marked in front by a fine sacrificial
stone on huge legs and flanked by
large stone Images as guards.
. Great Grave Viewed.
On each side is a scholar and a sol
dier and between them horses for the
spirit to ride. The grave, a huge
mound. 60 feet in circumference and 15
feet high. Is guarded on the east and
west by stone tigers, and on the north
a stone slab or small monument' marks
the exact north. This Is Kija's grave
and the sacred grove so sacred to Ori
entals that during t"ie Japanese-Chinese
war,, though It should have been razed
as a military necessity the Chinese
who occupied the city did not think or
entertain the Idea for a moment. Na
tions may fall and dynasties crumble,
but the sacred grave of a King dead
some 3000 years must not be disturbed.
- While the Koreans may not possess
Lewis County District. ,
The lake covers an area of about 30
acres and is evidently the crater of
some extinct volcano.
From the top of Goat peak a most
beautiful view is given of St. Helens
and Rainier and a most magnificent
picture of the Cowlitz Valley.
When trips out of camp hecame tire
some, the party gathered their fishing
paraphernalia, and it was a jaunt to
the Green River, up or down which
the four business men waded, like
schoolboys, with fishing rod and line
thrown far" down the stream in which
the famous striped and Dolly Varden
trout bite and fight as only they
know how, much to the great delight
of the casters.
Thus It was for three long weeks,
which to these four Kelso business men
seemed like so many days, so long had
it been since they so thoroughly en
Joyed such a delightful camping vaca
tion. They were attired for the occasion
and they confessed they couldn't have
had a better time, for they all returned
to Kelso prepared for another year of
business activity in their various lines
of endeavor, with nothing . but the
highest praise for the unsurpassed
scenery of the Green River country In
Lewis and Cowlitz Counties.
the noted charm of manners or progres
sive spirit so character.stic of the Jap
anese, they are a very industrious and
teachable people, albeit very firmly
fixed In patrlarchial customs and an
cestral types of architecture and agri
culture, yet notably open to the appeal
of the Christian religion, giving to
Korea the remarkable distinction of be
ing among the most successful mission
fields of the world, eloquent evidences'
of which I see in the large attendances
at religious services conducted and sup
ported entirely by the Koreans, their
interest In education anu the large
buildings now being erected, some al
most entirely at their own charges. Tor
schools and other religious interests.
Among these is the addition to -the In
dustrial work In Pyengyang Station,
which plans to meet a crying need on
.ais line.
After a house-boat trip for a few
weeks up the great Fast River, I hope
to pass a week or two profitably In
Japan and then homeward-bound.
G. M. WELLS.
Thackeray's "PenCennls."
Of all Thackeray's novels "Penden
nls" was obviously and avowedly the
most autobiographic. The obviousness
lies In the fact that it deals with early
rustic conditions exactly like those Into
which the author was introduced in his
youth; and with the later environment
of literary London in which his man
hoed was spent. The avowal is made
by Thackeray himself, and nowhere
more frankly than in a letter to his
friend George Moreland Crawford, Paris
correspondent of the London Daily
News, which accompanied a presenta
tion copy of "Pendennls." "You will
find much to remind you of old folks
and faces," ays Thackeray; "of Will
iam John O'Connell. Jack Sheehan and
Andrew Archdeckne. There Is some
thing ot you In Warrington, but he is
not fit to hold a candle to you, for
taking you all around, you are the
most genuine fellow that ever strayed
from a better world into this. You
don't smoke, .and he is a consumed
smoker of tobacco; Bordeaux and port
were your favorites at the Deanery and
the Garj-ick. and Warrington is always
guzzling beer, but he has your hon
esty, and like you could not posture
If he tried."
A