The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, May 21, 1911, SECTION FIVE, Page 7, Image 65

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    niK 5USDAT OKEGOMAX, PORTT,,lT. MAT 21, 1911.
They certainly are of great valae to us. X
wonder If all women read them as thor
oughly as I do, and appreciate bow kind
you are In ao thoroughly anawaring all
questions. X would llks to hear opinions
of other woman. MH.i X L. C
T am glad you like this column and
find It helpful. In. using the following
recipe, remember that hard, "boiled
candles" are always rather, difficult to
do well at home. The professional
candymaker usually has a kind . of
cooking pan which causes boiling,
under reduced pressure, st a lower tem
perature, thus avoiding crystallization.
ALBANY'S FAIR SEX BAND LONG
. FAMOUS IN WILLAMETTE VALLEY
Musical Organization, Most Prominent of Kind in Oregon, Wu Formed in 1880, and Maintained Activity on
Numerous Important Occasion a for More Than Three Tears.
The shoes without
buttons or laces
ft
Martha
Washington,
The glucose helps in mis. tjanay
makers usually have a special machine
for forming the drops.
Lemon Drops Boil together 4 cups
sugar and half a pound of glucose,
about 4a cut thin, or less of the thick
kind. Weigh It If you can. Use Just
enough water to dissolve the sugar.
Boll' to the crack 100 or S10 degrees
Comfort
bv the candy thermometer. Pour en
a slsb or platter to cool. Motsten rather
less than s quarter teaspoonful of
oowdered citric or tartaric -acid with
a few drops of lemon extract. Knead
Shoes
this Into the candy. Boll with a ron-
lngpln to the desired thickness, mark
in small squares, ana break wnen com.
Roll in confectioners sugar or In gran
ulated sugar as preferred.
7 ;;pr
" ti
See that this trade Vl - V 1
mark and V - - -
"Martha V ' . " ,.
Washing- X, , . V
ton" name VTT v v i-sv
are on the && , ' It
il Z-7
v
l. ' - jr j t - -aas r -am
t
- i ; -j . . . . . ;- -
" a- i , f ' . v '
-ill' -
A - .
PHOTOGRAPH OF THE FAHOIS ALBANY LADIES BAMK
Th plmy. (rdlni from lft lo rlnht) r: Btaodlnf Sttl P1pr. no th wL' of E. W. Lnfdon. of Albany.
fr many .sra pmldl of th Flrgt National Bank of Albas?; EIIcabth Irrlna. now Imtrortor In rnxltah In Anbany
'o!I..- Maacla fmit. bow xm O. A. Powll. of Seattle; Dolllo Houck. now tha wlfa of Own. A. Wmoner. nianaaer
of tM T.banon Kialnnl Mn Loacua; lotll Vont-lth. now Mra. J. V. PI pa. of Albany: Lola Clark, now Mra. Ramacy.
of Vanor. TVaah. SairJ ln aacond row) AmaiuJa lrrln. now tha wlfa of t L Thompaon. prominent hrokrr and ral
tato man of Portland, of tha firm of llartmao A Tbompaon; La or a Goltra. Bow Mra. TJanaon Starr, of Paaadana. Cal.:
J.nnl. l lark. who man-lad Bar. E. N. -ondlt. for many yaara praaldaat of Albany Cotla'e. and who l now decaaaad;
Boaa Pannal, now daaaaad. Tina Monlalth. now lira. W. U. Kaatlna. of Oakalooaa. la.: Uura Houft.1 now Mra. E. L.
irrlna. of Portland. ratad I In front -iMattla Ko.tar. Bow Mra. Groraa T. Fraammn. of St. Paul. Minn.; Mao" Irvln. now
tha wlfa of A. II. giausos. fortnarly a promlnant Portland nawroapar roan aad now with Rartman Thompaon. Portland.
AI.BANT. Or, Mar (Special.)
ne of th mot famoua muaical
oriraritxAtlons aver formal In Ore
won was a vonun'l band, at Albany.
In the early 'Hum. Ttiare have been a
number of banda made cp of member
of the fair aex In the state tlnce that
time, but none ever attracted more at
tention or hotda a more prominent
pia.e la the annals of things musical
In this state than this Albany ora-anl-tatlon.
which was the pioneer of them
fl. It was a band well known through
out the entire Willamette Valley and
played In several different cities and
on manr historic oralons.
The "Ladlea Brass Band" was It,
name. It was organised In 140 and
maintained an active organization fr
more than threw years. Not withstand
ing the fact that It was composed en
tirely of women. It furnished aplendld
music and was the equal of any men's
band In the state at that time.
Kormed primarily for the entertain
ment and enjoyment of Its own mem
bers, the band furnished such excellent
music that Its services were In great
demand. It played for public gather
Inga both In Albany and In many other
cities of the Willamette Valley. The
band appeared In concerts and also
played for celebrations, picnics and
political rallies on many occasions.
Tne mom famoua occasion on which
It played was when President Ruther
ford B. Haves made his first trip across
the newiy-tompleted Oregon A Califor
nia Railroad on the first trip ever
ma-le by a President, of the United
Stn.tr to the Pac'ftc Coast. The band
played at the Albany depot when the
president s train ttopped at this city
and won hlgli pral-e both from the
PreaMrnt and t'te distinguished men
who accompanied Mm on the trip.
The band was composed of the lesd
tng young women of Albuny. daughters
of the most prominent pioneer families
of the city, whose names are Indlssol
ubly linked with the founding as well
as the Industrial and etvlc progress of
Albany. Its members were the lesders
In the social and educational, as well
well as the musical life of the city
at that time and many of them now
occupy a most prominent place In tne
social life of Portland. Albany and
other Northwest cities. All but two
of the 14 young women who formed
this famous band re now living-.
The leaders and Instructors of this
unique musical organization were M.
J. Montelth. who still resides In Albany,
and Charles Pierce, whose present
whereabouts Is unknown. Mr. Mon
telth Is shown standing at the lett of
the accompanying photo and Mr. Pferce
at the right.
The members of the band, together
with the Instruments played by each
were as follows: Nettle Piper. E-flat
cornet: Lottie Montelth. E-flat cornet:
Maggie Foster. B-flat cornet: Dollle
Houck. B-flat cornet: Iaura Qoitra. u
riat cornet: Laura Houck. slide trom
bone: Jennie Clark, tenor; Mattle Fo-
ter, alto; Mary Irvine,, alto; Amanda
Irvine, alto; Lula Clark, alto; Eliza
beth Irvine, tuba: Tina Montelth. snare
drum; Itose Dannals, bass drum.
Answers to Correspondents
BT LIU AX TINOLE.
eOflTLAXPi T.. Mar lo To r-aant ar
rivals from plains dl,tant from flsha-lae. an
article ew tha pun-haaa. preTtermtH1 and
earring of tha bewllriartng vartatv of n,h.
eaan In the Portland roarkata, would be moat
acceptable. I anoald like to know bow this
long list of fUhea ranks la quality: bow to
fall a perfectly freen flah frcm one not so
fraeh: tba baat way plain, wnotaaome way
of cooking each variety of nh; tha vas
etaaiaa and eeucee haat earved with fl,h
of eeco kind. it also appaare to me that
tha dessert following a neh dinner should
oiffae materially from that following a roast
aaf vnaaL
I have lone desired to ask yoa for a
recipe for snaking aoap. bat keelfated wntil
I saw your counsel soili-lted la the matter of
rhooelng a husband. We are fond of Ore
gon'a delicious mutton, and muttoa fat ac
aumulatea, 1 got some lye snd followed
printed Inetrujctlons. but found I had not
iwad eoougn lye. I boll ad the mixture
asaln. adding a lot more lye. but savaral
tlmas the ejuantttv of my aoap la required
to eqaal In strength the ordinary laundry
aoap. It B&ay be that aoapmakara add
something to tbalr lye and graa.a. I ehould
like a good recipe. I was brought up te
sober waatefulnaee and It really dl-treesee
me to throw awar nlra claan fat. We eat
so fried food, practically. thanklnr yoa
a reply. M AHTHA.
TUTS Information you desire In re
gard to fish Is beyond the scope of
a core-pondence column, but I will
Iry to write a special article or It
may liaT to bo a series of articles on
the subject Just as soon as I can find
the necessary time. Certainly Port
land housekeepers are favored In the
varied and inespenelve "sea food" avail
able all the year round. In our market.
I cannot claim to be an expert au
thority In regard either to the choice of
husband, or the making of soap; but
uch knowledge as I he I willingly
"ahare. Mutton fat makes excellent soap.
1 use such aoap for dt-h washing, rather
than for laundry purposes, and feave
found that a 1 cent can of lye. with the
clarified savings from odd piece of f3t
tirjultaMe for shortening or frying, will
keep me In cleaning soap for many
month. AnJ I am not stingy with
soap, either! I.Ike yourself. I abhor
wastefulness. To me "economy" does
not mean "going without." but ex
penditure." seeing bow much of the
pleasures and comforts of life one can
gat out of one's household allowance,
whether large or small. Reasonable
thrift in small matters often means
much In securing larger edvanlagrs.
However. It wus a recipe you asked
for. not a sermon on economy. The
following I fThd easy and fairly satisfac
tory Of course .home-made soap is
never equal to the best commercial
products. Pojpmaklng Is a highly scien
tific business, and the home soapmaker
haa not the appaancea necesajy for
careful measuring of proportions, tem
perature, etc.. for the removal of soma
of the "by-products' and trie addition
In some cases -ot additional Ingredi
ents. Home-made soaps Dlssle one pound,
strong lye In threw quarts of cold wa
ter. Let cool It becomes hot owing to
a chemical action which takes place.
Have readv ftv pounds of clean, tned
out fat. Have this Just melted, not very
hot. Combine the dissolved lye and
melted grease, and mix In a quarter
pound borax, and two tablespoons am
monia. 8Mr thoroiMy :nt!l It begins
to thicken. Ih r. t boll. When just
thick enough to pour, turn Into wooden
.ia, or moulds and cut ur when firm.
Fmpty match boxes make good S"p
moulds. Ktore In dry place. For
keeolnc additional boras may replace i
the ammonia, as the latter tends to
evaporate.
Thla I the method r generally use.
because It is short, clean and simple;
but you will And on th cans of lye
Instructions for making oap by boil
ing, from rongh and even dirty pieces
of fat, as well as from clarified crease.
tee, or.. V r 1 1. some time ago yea
g'e direction, in The Mundsy Oregonlan
.'or the simple home preservation of esse.
The paper was destroyed and 1 am at a
lose to know what to do againat a certain
ecarclty of esss later on. is It asking too
much of your llrae to eend the directions
to me? 1 shall be very thankful.
Mild. E. W.
As you would see from the printed
slip, sent you from this office. It Is
not possible for me to "send" recipes
or make personal answers to corre
spondents. As the time limit has Just
expired I am glad to repeat th direc
tions, which are as follows: Have the
eggs as fresh ns possible not more
than three days old and preferably
"fertile." from a flock containing one
or more roosters. Do not wash them
unless they are very dirty. Pack them
small end down. In a large crock
provided with a lid. Cover with a solu
tion of "water glass" (sodium silicate)
which can be obtained at any large
drug store. I'se one part water glass
to ten parts water. The water should
be boiled and cooled before being; com
bined with water glass. Keep the egg
crock In a cool place and disturb as
little as possible.
This Is the method recommended as
"beef by the I'epartmrnt of Agricul
ture. It la very easy, and eggs care
fully put up in this way have no musty
taste as limed, salted, tallowed or var
nished eggs very often have. Some
people use a slightly weaker solution,
but the proportion of one to ten 1
best. I have had good success with
this, both In school and at home.
' Portlsnd. Or.. May 11. In eternising
fruit and veretahle, in the wide-mouth fruit
jar-a. la It poeelhle to keep the Juice from
bollmx out? 1 put the Jars after filling
with (rult and liquid to the running over
point ard rlampltiK down the lid. In the
boiler, which I fill with water to the top
of the Jana. scmcttmee a little over. But
IB spite of all. 1 find the liquid haa fallea
one and ooa-balf Inrhea from the orisfaal
point. Can yoa relieve a dlatressed mind ?
MRS. A. P. C.
Are yoa sure that the liquid does
boll out? A certain amount of shrink
age usually takes place varying ac
cording to the kind of fruit or veg
etable used, and a slight vacuum is
created, which helps to hold the lid
firmly In position after the clamps are
off. Follow the directions, which come
with the Jars you mention, and I think
you will have no trouble. We use them
continually la school with good re
sults, though, as you say. the Jars
are no longer quite full when they
come from the steamer. In this case,
however, the keeping qualities are not
affected. I have at the moment some
asparagus and strawberries, both two
years old this month. Each Is sound
and In good condition In spite of the
fact that the llqnld does not stand at
running over point, as It would have to
do for proper keeping in some of the
older makes of Jars. The Juice did not
boll out of these. Follow the printed
directions as to the method and time
best suited to the various fruits and
vegetables, and I think yon need not
worry about the success of your csn
ning. Seaside. Or.. May a. t am sure yoa csa
help ma out of my difficulty so I sm writ
Irs to inn A certain var line eus'ard calla
f..r the following Ingredients- T'.m esaa.
Iiree cure milk, autar and brandy to taate.
Boat tke yelks wall, add the brandy with ,
a wee bit of water, slowly, to the beaten
ear yolks, then tha lurar and milk, and
laalty tba wall beaten whltea."
I've tried every way of putting It to
gether but It never seems to come out
rlshl. It should be light and fluffy when
dona. If you do not etlr It while cook
Ing. the whltea rise td the top and the
solid custsrd lies st the bottom. It should
be light all through. If I stir It sfter the
mixture Is warm It has a curdled appear
ance. I Joat can't get It right although It
sounds so simple-
ran you tell me Juat how much wster
should be used snd why? If It Is to weaken
the brandy, why not uee leae brandy snd
no water? Should the milk be hot or
eold? Hheuld the custard be covered or
not? ehould It be cooked in the over or
on the top of the atnve? Oh. tell me every
Utile detail: surety then I can get It tight.
It la ao good turned over freah fruit, and
covered with nuts, that I am anxloua to
learn tba a arret. A thouaand thanks for
your help. J.
I am not quite clear as to Just what
type of custard you sre seeking. Dif
ferent handling of the same materials
will give 'different results as to flavor
and texture. Tou might try the fol
lowing method, and let me know If It Is
not the kind of thing you want. In
that case. I'll try again; but this gives
a "fluffy." uncurdied custard (cold),
good with fruit and nuts, as you de
scribe yours.
Whipped cream may. with advantage
be substituted for nil or part of the
egg whltea Scald the milk, with the
sugar. In a double boiler. Add a pinch
of salt to the egg yolks and beat them
enough to mix well, but not to foam
ao much as to reduce their thickening
power. Pour, gradually, the hot sweet
ened milk upon the yolks, stirring all
the time. Return the mixture to the
double boiler, and cook carefully, stir
ring: all the time, until the mixture
coats the back of the spoon. Then, al
though It Is not yet as thick as you
hope it will be. remove from the fire;
set in cold water, and stir occasionally,
to prevent a scum forming, until -t Is
cold. It should now be smooth and as
thick as very heavy cream. Next add
the brandy no water. Beat the egg
whltea with a pinch of salt until Arm
enough to be cut, clean, with a knife
not until they begin to granulate and
separate, but until they are at the
highest point of firmness Just short-of
this. Now fold the whites Into the
thick, cold cooked custard. which
should, of course.'be sweet enough for
both parts of the dish; pile upon fresh
chilled fruit, in tall glasses; and serve
sprinkled with nuts.
It Is a little easier to get a good tex.
ture if one of the egg whites or even
two is beaten. Just enough to lose its
Identity, with the yolks and rooked
with them. Remember that the custard
must be kept below boiling point, or
It will curdle. Don't have the water
boiling furiously In the double boiler.
F.ememher that the custard thickens
on cooking. If you expect it to get
thick In the pan you will be disap
pointed, as it will simply become cur
dled and watery. If you should begin
to over-cook it. and see signs of curd
ling, remove Instantly from the hot
water, set the pan in cold water and
beat the custard furiously with a Dover
eggbeater. I think the object of the
water was to prevent a possible curd
ling of the egg-yolks In the strong
spirit. Water Is not needed, and less
brandy will give the necessary flavor,
if It is added after. Instead of before,
cooking. If the mixture were pre
pared as above, and baked in a pan set
In hot water In the oven. It would give
a sort of custard-souffle one. how
ever, that falls very quickly, and is
easily over-cooked. A little starchy
foundation would be better if a custard-souffle
Is wanted.
Portlsnd. Or.. May 111 Kindly give me
fnll directions for making lemon drops
lcand In next Sunday's Ore sonlan. While
thanking ou In advance. I want to say
how Instructive I find your column of
recipes, with their very explicit directions
Quick Luncheons for
Sewing Days
UIIIIIF lllllllillilllllliill
V r
p!
EXU: Asparagus on toast, hot tea
1v I biscuits, marmalade and tea,
Use canned asparagus tips.
Drench them with eld water the moment
the can is opened: drain thoroughly In a
colander and warm In a double paller;
put In a little butter during the warm
ing and season to taste. Make a hard
toast of "white bread, butter the slices
and put the asparagus on top; set the
dish on a far part of the stove to keep
warm while the other things are ar
ranged. Get the baker's tea biscuit of
the evening before and rewarm them
in the oven, first brushing over the
tops with a little milk. There is an
American marmalade orange, of
course that sells at 17 cents' a Jar.
It is delicious.
Menu: Stewed kidneys and rice, raw
tomatoes and chocolate eclairs and coffee.
The main dish can 'be warmed up to
advantage, so it can be made the day
before. Ask the butcher for a fresh
veal kidney.- or six or eight fresh lamb
kidneys. Skin them and soak in Ice
water and salt for ten minutes. Cut
them In half-Inch pieces, or smaller
if liked, and put them on in a cup
and a half of water to stew. If the
kidneys are not from a well-nourished
animal less water will be required, as
this absorbs the substance. Cook, two
slices of onion with tnem and the salt
snd pepper, letting them get perfect
ly tender yet not mushy. Cook a cup
ful of rice In a quart of water and
when half done drain It through' a
colander, put It In a saucepan, set It
on the back of the stove, and let it
steam half an hour more. On the sew
ing day rewarm the kidneys In a little
butter, and steam the rice until the
grains are separated: serve them on the
same dish. The eclairs cost three cents
apiece.
Menu: Baked beans. Boston brown
bread and cocoa.
The canned beans prepared with su
gar and tomatoes are fine for this
luncheon, while the little 6 and lu
cent cones of brownbread sold by the
baker can be made to take the place
of the home-made article.
Put the closed bean can In one dou
ble boiler, and the bread .In another,
and let them both get steaming hot.
Serve on piping hot plates, and if pos
sible provide sweet butter for the
bread. For a single person, this lunch
eon, which is the most substantial that
can be had. will cost Just 12 cenls S
for beans. 6 for bread and t for cocoa.
Menu: Chicken soup with toast sip
pets, cresm cheese and black coffee.
Got a ten-cent can of chicken and
rice soup enough for two persona. Be
sure, too. thst the grocer does not give
you chicken okrs. Put the soup on to
heat, adding as much cold water as
directions call for: or else putting It
with a can of plain chicken bouillon.
Add cayenne or paprika, salt and a
shaving of garlic. Let the soup simmer
for ten minutes. Make narrow pieces
of white bread and toast them a deep
brown, drying out all moisture. When
serving the soup, put one of these
sippets in the bowl or plate. The others
are to be eaten as bread. The little
round cheese In tinfoil that come at
S cents are good, but the square ones
at 10 cents are richer. If the cheese
can be beaten up with a little cream
and served alongside a dab of goose
berry or strawberry preserve it will
be delicious.
Menu: Fresh strawberries and cream,
homemade bread, sweet butter and a
glass of milk thinned with vlchy.
If the strawberries are free or Sana
do not wash them, as this dims the
exquisite taste. Hull them and serve
them on a plate with a cone-chaped
mound of powdered sugar beside each
serving. Have the cream separate, as
these delicate berries soon sour after
it is put on. The baker sells home
made bread, and yesterday's loaf Is
more palatable than today's. It is also
cheaper. The object of the vlchy in
the rich milk la to make It more di
gestible while Improving the taste.
Milk served in this way and straw
berries and cream are also beautify
ing to the complexion.
Menus for One
Week
Crm of wfa-torcrciMi soup
Bftkf-d cblnook salmon stuffed
Creamed potatoes with chives
Asparagus salad.
Baked caramel custard,
Coffee.
Wedoeftday.
Fish soup, cardinal style.
Braised heart, nut dressing.
Jardiniere of vegetablea.
Browned potatoes
Lettucs satad, French dressing
Jellied strawberries with cream.
Coffee.
Thojrsdar
Spring- vegetable soup.
Minced heart, with ham and noodles
Tomato sauce Fried oyster plant
Watercress salad
Banana trifle Coffee
Friday.
Tomato bouillon
plank .M shad with asparagus
Duchess potato border
Russian salad
Steamed chocolate pudding
Coffee.
Saturday.
" Green pes. puree
Broiled steak, maltre d hotel
French potatoes Hplnach
Orange salad Mocha puffs.
Coffee.
Sunday.
Bouillon with Italian pasta
Roast lamb, mint sauce
Brown potatoes, creamed leeks on toast
Lettuce hearts with strawberry cheese
Wafers
Prune whip
Coffee)
Monday.
Brown potato soup
Chartrue of lamb, with current Jelly
Creamed pas Fpiing salad
Rhubj-b tart
Cott
liuTaJIIIl
IIIIIIilllllllliB
Feet that auicklv tire, that are sensitive and
tender, that ache or burn that swell or perspire,
that cause discomfort if vou stand too Ions or walk
too far, get instant and lasting, relief and extreme
comfort from the stylish Mayer Martha Washington
Comfort Shoes. "
They are a blessing toaU womankind. They are made
without buttons or laces and can be slipped on or off in an in
stant Rubber at the sides gives with every movement of the
foot prevents any pressure and insures a smooth, glovelike fit
Mayer Martha Washington Comfort Shoes are dressy and
stylish in addition to their supreme comfort In all sizes and
three heights.
' W ARNTNCil sure -'ou Eet -e ?enu'ne- There
" T atvii ill VJs are nunierous imitations made to look
like Mayer Martha Washington Comfort Shoes but they lack the
comfort, wearing qualities, fit and style. The real
Martha Washington nas the name ''Martha Washington" and
the Maver trade mark on the sole. Refuse any comfort
shoes offered you without the Martha Washington name and
Mayer trade mark.
The best sha i merchants handle the genuine. If you can't find a dealer, tvritetous.
m F. MAYER BOOT & SHOE C0 Milwaukee, Wis.
v
sflimniimiinn n i 11 nn n n n mm m n n
.nMlllllHllllllllliUmillllllllllllllMlllllllllllllllllllllillIIIIIIIIIM
WESTERN BRANCH, WASHINGTON SHOE MFG. CO, SEATTLE, WASH
MAY IS MONTH FOR PARASOLS;
MANY NEW STYLES IN THE SHOPS
MT is eminently the month of para
sola, but the shOD stocks are too
Hfcr In. th. late., hnvpr tft he dlsaD-
pointed. Originality of form and very
long- sticks are the chief points this
season, although there are some won
derful combinations of materials and
colors.
Tha pavnliitlnngrv sticks. SS the
longest handles are called, seem most
eixectlve on a taiiorea parasoi mai i.
something plain or trimmed plainly.
i . . i it .1 in .....inT-'. prnnlrfi
OUCn Httiiuura chu .....
or handsome knobs, and when not in
use mlladl employs her long-handled
sunshade like a Dlrectoire cane. An
odd. light, dull-finished wood is some
times usea lor tnese nanuies,
honeycombed all over as if worm-
. iinniii.. ftf this sort are as
light as cork, and where the sun
shades are in a plain buk in a ntu
color they are suited to the most mod
est street gowns.
Elaborate sucks ior parui
finer materials, chiffon, lace, and chif
fon and flowers, are often a mass of
gems in dull silver and gilt settings.
Garnets, rhlnestones and every other
i .. v. i onnane in these: a glis
tening Jet handle may go with a black
effect, cut steel wnn gray, uiuc
let, while solid crystal is used for
i.. ,i irnAiia Kuch finishings
uruvna a in. ........ -
for parasol sticks are expensive, of
course, but as they will outwear many
covers they are lifetime investments.
The Victoria, the Empire, the Palm
Leaf, the Geisha and the Star are
names for some of the odd forms used
for the frame. The Palm Leaf has an
odd gathering of the material between
the spokes, the bottom edge .being
... chirrerl over a big cord.
The Star has the material cut square
off at the lower spoKes ana pieuc put.
on to effect the look of a big star,
and where these sunshades are fringed
at the bottom, as they often are, they
make a very graceful setting for the
head. ... J.
The Geisha and tne pagoua. xuima
,i Tonpnene effects, the top of
. i evino- nver like a temple
and the latter spreading out wide and
flat like tne usual paii b.v,..o
.i The ih of these are close
UIUMU1. " "
together, and always show, and much
novelty is gained occasionally with a
squared top. the flowered silk used
ending in a scalloped flounce made by
the overhanging edge of the material.
. : 4 .. V. thia ann IhA
A lace euge rn.y im.
rtrice of the smart model be no more
than 5. ,
Some very oamiy nine w
.i.. .. hih and tucker of the usual
. i - -Deed an tnffets.51 blurred
Duyer mo - .
and dim effects with handles of ma-
lacca tinted to matcn. un
showed a rich blend of blues and grays
, Anu- hflnriie tinted to
ano a r -...
match. Dog's heads, horses and the
blackbird and hen pneasani ii
. . 1. A.hee nonmnl StemS in
teen i iiuidii
this department, and the stylish novel
ties sell from tnree uu -
dollars. ' .. '
Any madness Is possiDie ai mo
' a handle human faces appear with
rd heads, a Chinese figure of carved
of
Dry Shampoo Better
Than Soap and Water
( From The New York Graphic )
"Once in two or three months is as
often as it is advisable to wash the
hair with soap and water," says Clari-
bel Montague, the beauty expeTt. "The
rubbing, drying and rinsing, together
with the action of the alkali in the soap
especially the alkali tend to make
the hair coarse, hard and brittle. Too
much moisture causes the hair to be
come thin and lose its color.
A simple and satisfactory dry sham
poo is made by mixing four ounces of
powdered orris root with four ounces of
therox. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of this
mixture on the head and brush. thor
oughly through the hair once or tfice
a week. That is all there is to It. This
treatment not only keeps the hair light,
fluffy and lustrous, but therox pro
duces the growth of new hair." Adv.
ivory is seen. ' a black enameled stick
may end with a round knob of cream
white bone. And all of these queer
points, with covers suitably dressy,
may come with the $5 sunshades. ,
Pompadour taffetas and black and
white stripes edged with a deep band
of contrast a sparkling apple green,
or red or some other rich color-J-are
other novelties fairly cheap and useful
with gowns of many, sorts. But the
sunshade for actual practicality, for
shopping and rough out-of-town use,
is generally of a plain silk in deep
blue, green, red or violet, with a simple
wood-colored handle and a silk cord
and tassel for the fastening. Such
tasteful and useful sunshades are ex
actly like small umbrellas, ami ex
cellent qualities of silk may be had in
them from I1.3S to $2.
A cover of white embroidered nain
sook, made ato come off for washing,
is shown with a black stick and white
silk lining for second mourning. Sun
shades for deep and dressy mourning
sometimes have net borders, crossed in
lattice way with pipings of English
crape, or a plain black silk affair
may end with a graceful fringe of
crinkled tape.
Children's parasols are the usual lit
tle doll baby affairs of flowered silk
with pinked flounces, or of shirred
muslin with ribbon or flower deckings.
Concerning posies, although there are
few people rich enough to buy the
dainty parasols on which they appear,
they are the most elegant deckings for
all gauzy frou-frou effects irt white or
pale colors. A child's parasol of white
gathered point d' esprit is garlanded
from top to bottom with wreaths of
tiny pink roses. One for mlladi seen
recently was of shaded violet chiffon
with a complete lining of violets.
MARY DEAN.
Lemon Whey One-fourth cup of milk
and two teaspoonfuls of lemon Juice.
Add lemon juice to milk and let stand
Ave minutes. Strain through double
cheesecloth and sweeten if liked.
How To Beautify
Plainest Complexions
(Toilettes.)
"The growing popularity of face lo
tions is in keeping with our natural
progress," says a well-known beauty
writer, "and before long they will have
supplanted powders and cosmetics.
"A very fine lotion can be prepared
at little cost by dissolving a small
original package of mayatone In eight
ounes of witch-hazel. This, applied
to the skin daily, frees it of pimples,
blackheads or other blemishes, and
will give to the 'muddy' or lifeless com
plexion a rich embellishment and nat
ural health-tint Impossible with pow
der or rouge.
"This mayatone lotion is greaseless
and prevents the growth of hairs. Many
women use ito to prevent tan and it is
employed to protect the skin from
harsh winds and changing weather."
Adv.
MILADY'S
TOILET TABLE
by,
ElvtlLiy DbMAR --1
A BEAUTIFUL FORM WOMAN'S
GREATEST CHARM.
A beautiful form is woman's great
est charm; and when Nature has been
lax in this direction it is necessary to
lend proper assistance. Many advocate
local applications to round out a
scrawny neck or underdeveloped Dust,
but external treatment does not go to
the source and, of course, cannot ac
complish much. The most successful
method is the Vaucaire treatment, in
troduced into France many years ago.
and its use by la dame Parisian is the
real secret of her possessing a ravish
ing figure. The basis of this prepara
tion is gallol, which can be obtained
from any drug store. First, make a
simple svrup, using one and one-half
cupfuls of granulated sugar and enough
water to make a pint; to this add the
gallol. Two teaspoonfuls taken twice or
three times each day soon produce the
desired result, as gallol is a splendid
tonic and feeds the shrunken or under
developed parts, rounding out the fig
ure and giving to woman that beauti
ful form rightly hers. Care must be
used, however, to see that you get
the gallol and not a substitute.
ANSWERS TO Q.UERIES.
Jane: (1) The clogged condition of
your skin is likely due to excessive
use of powder. (2) The cerol cream of
which you write is greaseless, will not
grow hairs, and Is the cheapest,
smoothest and most delightful massage
cream you can use. Dissolve three
ounces of cerol in a pint of water that
has been brought to the boiling point,
stirring until of a creamy consistency,
then use freely on the face, neck and
arms, massaging till it disappears. This
will clean and clear the skin and you
will not4 have to resort to powder or
rouge.
Mrs. B. V I do not think your hus
band's remarks were made to injure
your feelings, because a head of
scrawny, straggly hair detracts from
the most beautiful complexion. Use a
good tonic regularly and I am sure he
wil! be pleased with results. You can
make your own tonic at small cost if
you mix a half pint each of alcohol and
water and put in one ounce of beta
canthol. This, massaged into the scalp
greatly stimulates the hair roots, and
tne nair stops iauing out ana win
grow long, abundant and glossy.
Isabelle: I would not recommend the
electric needle, as it is painful and un
necessary in removing superfluous
hairs. Go to your druggist and get an
ounce of deiol. and with warm water
mix a little Into a stiff paste; spread
this on the offending hairs and let re
main two or three minutes, then scrape
off and the hairs will come with it.
Be sure and get the true delol, as It
is the only preparation I know of that
is antiseptic and does the work right.
f
Mamie; Don't use salves or oint
ments for scallness of the scalp. What
you should do is employ a good head
wash twice a week for a time and it
will correct this condition. A splendid
and Inexpensive shampoo can be had
with plain eggol. Simply dissolve a
teaspoonful in a cup of hot water and
you have enough for one shampoo. This
lathers freely, and gently, yet thor
oughly, cleanses the scalp of dandruff
and excess oil, exciting the delicate
tissues to healthy activity. It also
leaves the hair brilliant and fluffy.
A good hair tonic to use is given in
answer to Mrs. B. V.'s query.
Mrs. H. : Stop using injurious face
powders and harmful cosmetics, which
clog the pores and starve delicate tis
sues. Use plenty of soap and water to
remove accumulated impurities from
the pores and skin's surface and apply
a good retiring cream. Do this every
night Just before retiring, and your
rough, pimply, colorless complexion
will take on a soft, velvety, pink and
white glow, rivaling any "made" com
plexion. You can prepare your own
retiring cream by dissolving two
ounces of amarol in a pint Jar of hot
water. Any druggist can supply ama
rol in the original package, which if
not expensive, and a few treatments will
clean and clear the skin, giving it a
delicacy of texture and rose-toned em
bellishment impossible any other way,
W. T-: I'm glad you liked the cerol
disappearing cream. If those blotche
and pimples come back, I suggest you
take a good blood medicine to drlv
them out of your blood for good. Gel
an ounce of sarsene from your drug
gist, make a pint of heavy sugar syruf
and add the sarsene. Take two tea
spoonfuls three or four times a day,
and you'll soon get rid of those trouble- '
some blotches and pimples.
. Lola: Whoever told you to take a
medicine internally for eczema? Al)
scientists agree that it is a skin dis
ease to be treated through the skin
only. I'm sure if you try borotho)
you'll get immediate relief. Just dis
solve two ounces of borothol in a pint
of warm water, add a tablespoonful ol
glycerine and apply to the affected
parts. Adv.