7
r
V
TTII5 SUNDAY ORI-COMAX, rOTHXAXD, TERRFATlY
1911.
- v,mmmtmaanmrm;-rrm, in,. fc i "r . umi.i'iii 1. 1 1 in" " "' "'" 11 iii"
El
DAPPER COATS FOR COMING
SPRING TAILOR MADE-SUITS
TlfR walking; gowns being road "P I
for Spring wear ehow the shortest
and Jannllesl coat with the body
rams varied In many smart way. The
'or,g. straight side seam, bark and front.
3d en single and double-breasted
arque stjle la a great Improvement
ivrr th iured back and bust dart
n.e employed, and where the figure
U sufficiently allm to Hand this Inno
vation, the front and back will be
krousht together under tlie arm. where
a button holda the two pointed enda to
gether. The neck of every Spring coat
I finished f'.atly. either with a ahawl
r coal collar, or with stitching and
a plpii-g of ..m sort- Hleeves are In
L-oat form and put la the armhole with
out fullness, and where the figure
Breda It the front may be slashed
away at the bottom In a alight V. The
fastenings are made with three or two
button with conventional style, but
many a little novrl hape la rauicht be
low ihe waist with a .male button.
All milftUli for Soring are mainly
llaclil In. color, and the difference be
tween the xainnt I demonstrated by a
curtailing of even the allrht trlmmtna"
ucd for the Winter. The irairtnt
dress of cloth. serge or suiting of
me art are merely tlcned and
trimmed with matching bone button,
but If thl plainness I dlaitked there
are model that admit ome trimming
on the colUr and cuff and quite fancy
button, though the. lat are covered
with the trlmmln- used or ! are of
embroidery or galloon Velvet ha no
legitimate pUce on the Spring suit,
however sparingly ued. and neither la
bral.l much In evidence, the preference
being for the nl dapper plainness,
all the style comlnr In with the rut.
fit and color of tii material. Such
garnisf.lnits a are employed are re
served for the collar and cuff, and
here nv springlike texture I In keep
ing sl.ic figured and plain, aatin.
moire, or maybe a heavy cream linen
rtlred with a bias of aatin.
Tne skirt, that go with the little
Spring rot--thrir shortness and sllm
iwm give a treat Impression of sklni
.lnr. are all of the narrow ort. and
the woman must be elderly and badly
corseted Inileed who 1 not made 1
year younger by one of thee charm
'.ne and useful suit.
The bodice that iroe under the coat
t a matter of the dres material, serge
or a stuff a practical, railing for the
sensible tailored thine In rather heavy
va--h tenure and cloth of a hand
somely rr-a.de suiting demanding a finer
lingerie waist. Net bodice will be
worn with thee walklns; dree. llke
wl.ie silk oor veiled as during the
present season, but for a r.ally Spring
look the wash aodlre l far preferable
unless the get-up Is of exceptionable
elegance.
The accomnanylna picture give four
coat for mlsse and women, but. al
though designed for suit, the styles
are permts.-tble for odd wear. Made
of a light-weight cloth. In black or
pale brown, or In a greenish-brown
covert, the coat would be suitable for
frock In any color, and much elegance
.-ould be obtained In this event by the
choice of a suitable and dainty lining.
In picture A there are two very
useful and smart Jacket for women,
the style admitting uch texture a
cloth. serge, covert coating, suiting
and .attn. for a number of the most
effet-tive tailored gowns are of a heavy
linen-barked satin, and the material
re-pnd well to the stltchlns; done on
tailored effect.
In the present Instance the cvat at
the left of thl drawing I of pale tan
cloth, vcrv light in weight and lined
with a twilled black silk. The button
are of white irarl with black rim,
and the rosette and loop of black
ilk. Such a coat would be very ef
fective with a plain black cloth skirt,
made severely and rather snugly, and
a turban on the order of tne one worn
by the fisure. In rich violets, would
e a dashing headpiece.
The second figure In thl fllrture
wears a coat In a tye especially
adapted to a suit, and any texture,
snort of a Ure plaid, would be Muta
ble for It. T.'itether with a skirt of
the same, the model would be hand
some In a pale grey cloth, a' tan. blue
or violet, with any of which a hand
some moire silk. In a darker, lighter
r matching h..te. would be a smart
garniture. If the suit were made of
bla. k broadcl'-th. the collar piece, cuff
band and button covering could be
of a ricn cream, robins egg blue, or
tld golt Imrn. and the limns; of the
roat would be charming If the silk
tnati had the color Used.
There are al many very cheap ull
tnii of w.d and cotton that would be
units .ffctlve In thl style, and a
Ihe chearer material look better when
much trimmed the skirt could have a
band of the silk, satin or moire used
on the coat, with plain bone button
and some modification of the other
trimming the model I. likewise good
for linen, and concerning; thl material
tie rthet color In It are to b worn.
Three linen suits, mad ut recently
f.r jioulhern weir, were respectively In
oral pink, robin eu; blue and a
beautiful red. n the blue suit a
warm cream linen wa used for collar
and cuff. and Ma. k appeared here on
the pirk suit. The red wa all In one
tone, evrepl fr a stitched edce of
white linen that faced the collarlesa
neck and showed beyond the bottom
of the sleeve. Thl stitched ede wa
made detachable for washina. as red Is
a color tnat run with launderlns: to
some eitent. however rood the linen.
U pvture t are two very stylUah little
Ju-ket for rrU between 1 and IV but
while adapted to odd wear both would
ba far more effective a part of a suit.
The eihawl collar of the rot at the left,
as well as the cutaway fronts, would be
becomtn to the Kouilsh arlrl and lve
the slim one an added trlmnee. and the
model I an slmrle that It nceo. cause m.
: iA
& i I
i 1 1
with thl there would need to be the
snme contract In the skirt, where one of
the stylteh hobble hands, so much used
frttll. could be of the contrasting mater
ial. If made large enough for shrinking
with laundering or cleaning, this dapper
fVAi.r
i V
jvrKv.Tst rnn
!-i'KINi WISH.
THE
. -.......-
OMKN'3 COATS FOR Sl ITS OR OPD VSE.
worry on the part of the fairly expert
home se wer.
A Spring acrse In one or me virmie
pretty dark blue now in me nnT.i
would be an admirable and lawful tex
ture for a suit with a oI of thl eort.
but cloth and any suiting of a girlish sort
are feasible for the sKyle. With the blue
erge a lining in a aim tirrn
.ilk would be smart, and In thl event
the single button uwd at the front-lf all
the drew te made with a certain oninn-
nes and distinction and the erge la a
good one might be one or the jeweiea
affair of Imitation Jade. For a girl of
1 this gown could llkewlee be of black
Knclnz-welght clottl. With a Vioiel or
brUht rlierrv lining, but the very Hht-
m necessary for a good effect would
not make the main wii "c
wash suiting or any kind, unies allow
ance la made for shrinking with the
washing. . .
The eveond coat In thl drawirr, oeing
lihout a collar, would be the aimplewt
matter In the world for the home sewer
lo attempt, and the design I so new It
would give a pretty material a decided
dleKtnrtlon. A look of novelty and fur
ther allmnes could also be obtained by
having sides of the coat In ono material
wi tit ret In another the flnwt of silk
or satin and the other portion in what
ever, material l used for the suit. K"t
little Jacket with It odd touches would
be admirable for a linen suit In any of
Ihe bright colors that will be used.
Take a look at the halo, please, for
Ihcy are all of the new ready-to-wear
sort which means that theee hat, once
so practical, are Increased In flxlner.
Tlie elisor are all of rounh straw, and
field flower, ribbon and one fancy utraw
aigrette sre trimming. Such hats
bought ready made In very good mater
ials cost from )1 lo C .
It I far smarter lo have the color of
the hat contrast with that of the suit
than have It match. For Instance, with
a gray frock a deep blue hat is often
worn, a violet headpiece la seen with a
brown frock, black with a green frock
or the reverse.
Hoot for ttie mart little suit have
cloth uppers to match In color, but the
most nobby walking gloves are still
heavy tailored affairs of white wash
leather. MA It Y 1JKA.V
Answers to Correspondents
T L1UAX TISr.I.E. 1
IMt.KM. Or.. Jan. It Will Jrou kindly
publi'h a rule for French sala.l arem.
a to msse n r a i"' - , -
Tmir reeeipes have been very helpful lo
eo. Thanking m
IAM p;iad you have found this column
helpful. The standard rule for French
. . : k. ne tr.w nerienrea
aressmg m -
Mlad-maker ue thl as a general guide
and foundation, varyina me v.
of acid or adding a loucn i ,
lavor such aa ceieo". an.
.yenne. garlic, onion Juice, paprika.
orange-sest. etc.. lo suit the parucuiar
salad they are oreasang. toe ai.u
ba varied In kind, as well as In quantity.
The French dressing of France often haa
for arid equal part lemon Juice and tar
ragon vinegar. I. peronally. prefer this
- . ..,u and most other
or an ("en - -
inds. lmnn Jul-e. slone. or coroDinea
rlth other sharp fruit Jul.-es or claret, la
generally preferred lor rreocn
Intended for fruit salad. Well flavored
pure oilve oil I eaevntlal for a success
ful French dressing. Oood oils vary
somewhat In flavor ana coior. j s-
plan IS to iry niir .--
Illtll you find -tlie one anu oiuj.
oil praised by one person may
liked by another! Ixrnt say you dl-
llke olive oil until you nave xrieu
the bet brand, t know some people
. . . - e..-Mr ne lank of It of
wno preicr o -
cottonseed or peanut oil to olive oil.
hough tnese suomu'-
digestibility or inedl. lnnl value of tne
best olive product. For a smsu pan;,
mixing the dressing at table Is - a
pleasing custom. This may be done by
host or hostess, whichever Is the ex
pert. Tersonally I prefer to toss the
salad In the seasoned oil before add
ing the acid: but aometlmes It I more
convenient to stir all the rodlmcnts
together In a small bowl, and men
dress the salad. If garllo la used, run
the bowl with a broken "clove." or
rub a crust of bread with garlic, and
loss It with the salad. For larger
parties, the dressing may be made be-
ninn me s enee khv -
fully measured, befng shaken together
in a iruii jar. r rrntu wt""'"
green salads should be applied at the
very last moment so as not to wilt
tnem. i n i a i s tne reason v -torn
of dressing a salad at the table
this and the fart that the most im
portant Ingredient in the dressing Is
-1 . A W.KI-H tlieft.
retlcally at least, the hotea has more
than her maid.
French Lrlnj Ona-half teaspoon
I sal tmaS
JL SMJLJt ' We-.
1 1
WW 1
moil NoN-RnsTABLE
j CJv CORSEES
FiU Wear, Satisfy and Insure
You Against Corset Troubles,
T-IE most potent charm or womaniy
beauty is a PERFECT FIGURE
attained only through wearing a perfect
.1 r-
corset correcny mtcu.
. .mi..iM "'imiumwiwUKj !
3.K-v0m.--,ni Jhirz,JSz-, ni'Tivirf-iVB-wa1ssaarl
enhance and beautify every figure,
moulding the form until it assumes the
graceful and symmetrical lines of the
ideal. All this and more is accomplished
with ease and fully in accord with the
laws of health and hygiene.
Ill-fitting, poorly-made corsets destroy
the very charms which nature intended
should be emphasized, and many a fine
e a At 1 t, C o
figure has been marrea Dy iacK ui uic..
tion to that most important factor, the correct corset and
how to wear it Ask your corsetiere to assist you.
ROYAL WORCESTER LUKtiD are tne
VeNa. Allf t-r ire of the moment.
OllUl t- Will IU lOOHIuiiawv
Try a pair and banish all your corset troubles
Send for our Corset
Catalogue, The Royal
Blue Book
Sold Br leading Dealers i to $3
If you cannot procure the model desired we will direct
you to nearest dealer, or send postpaid on receipt of price.
nv At-lirr.Dr'irCTrD rORQFT TO- 28 Geary Street, SAN FRANCISCO
JlMh omm n
- iiiiinir i niiii n ii aru II i titiii II iff
fi 1 '"' t rrr'LTJi 't 1 1 tr--Wt,A,le-i w".L'
-as-..,K
r.wj"W.lV.I'iMelJatl'Ta'J..T;.''-r
rfl'IViliaJ'itfaWJ'1M3iM'jaea3a .
salt; 4 teaspoon fres'i ground pepper
(there are little table pepper mills
for this): t tablespoons best olive oil;
I to 4 tablespoon acid, which may be
lemon Juice or vinegar. Optional In
gredient for the above quantity are:
t teaspoon made mustard; a few
gralna cayenne, or teaspoon pap
rika; H teaspoon onion Juice.
Cooked materials for salads are
often greatly Improved by being
"marinaded" In French dressing for
some time before being drained, com
bined, and given their final arrange
ment and dressing.
Instructions for making mayonnaise
were given January 22 and therefore
csnnot be repeated at present.
rortland. Or.. Jan. C4. Could you tell m
shat kind of batter or meal Is used In the
hotels on oyster or nan ror acrp trying
I have had It at several of the grills. It
give, a very smooth, beautiful brown and
forms a skin arund the food. Thanking
yon In advance. O. N. M.
I think It may be rather a question
of skillful handling, good frying-, me
dium and correct temperature, than
any particular batter or meal. The
ordinary frying batter, given in all
good cook books, produces in skillful
hand the results you describe. In un
skilled hands, the same batter may
give a pale, greasy, soggy, doughy
mass around the food. Powdered
cracker crumbs, carefully sifted and
used In yilace of bread crumbs. In the
ordinary egg and crumbling process
will also give such a film aa you de
scribe, if skillfully used. Both fish
and oysters for frying should be dried
by tossing in rather highly seasoned
flour, before being coated with either
batter or egg and crumbs. In some
rases one coat, in other cases two
coat of egg snd crumb may be de
sirable. Many rooks marinade fish
or oysters for frying in French dress
ing; others dip them In mayonnaise
before giving them the final protec
tive coat. A Short practical lesson
on the frying of fish and oysters
would probably enable you to attain
a similar smooth brown coating In
frying your fish. A generous tip, ad
ministered to waiter and chef In the
grills you mention, might help to de
termine whether. the latter used any
special material, but I think you will
find It a question of technique rather
than of batter or meal.
Portland. Or.. Jan. IT. Being an Inter
urd reader of The Sunday ure.onian. 1
take this method of Informing Miss O. E.
, nnA Ava'tlv elven the rlsht
- .
recipe for "White Pudding." We have made
White Pudding orten anu aias in i
t- v, i . Mrin. wss hnnded down
from my grandfather, born In 17SJ, and was
a dish often prepared by his moiner.
for hreakfsst with coffee; and It Is an ex
cellent substitute for eegs or meat. Take
1-3 kidney suet. nour ana wurn.
chopping the suet first, working out every
thing but the suet Itself, and mixing thor
oughly. Reason with salt snd blark pepper.
Make thin muslin bans old cloth Is bet
ter. 10 or 12 Inches long and narrow, about
me biz ui a nit"" " ' '
nd tie securely, packing liKhtly. Boll what
you want to use. 1 or a roll.. 1 hour.
Tear off the clolh covering: put' into the
oven and brown thoroughly. If this Is
made according to this old recipe It can
not fall lo please. 11 Is not to b eaten
with meal, but Is rather a substitute for
It. Formerly It wa packed In skins, and
Is better so even now. f. M.
I am sure Miss a. K. L. will thank
you a I do for your interesting letter.
It is not, however, quite clear whether
the recipe you give call for 1 part
suet and 2 parts Hour by weight, or by
measure which would make quite a
difference. While "White Pudding" Is
a "hearty" energy and heat-giving
food. It can hardly he considered as a
substitute for meat In regard to tissue
building material aa can easily be
seen by a glance at any of the many
tables of food-Values furnished In the
Farmers- Bulletins. Where, however,
too much meat or other tltisue-hulldlni;
material I being used In the diet. as
Is so often the case In this country,
white puddings might occasionally bo
useful aa the substantial dish of a
meal without meat.
Jefferson, nr.. Feb. 1 Have ynu any
remedy to surccst to prevent rake tail
ing after It Is taken from the oven.
I have had considerable Irouhle late
ly with layer cake failing aner o. u
When taken rrom tne oven .
..... i. hin. to fall Immediately.
until' It Is a perfect failure. I have been
. . . w-kaal flniir at n fl
. . . . . i. .sAnhia r w In th flnUT.
moment i-rmi. i. - -- ----- ---
I ral vour eookln notes In The Orro-
. t vnll
nlan and enjoy mem e., ... '
. ...iinm t.A main mat will en
able me to overcome thla annoying matter
I will appreeiai meoi e. , ......... . ...
close p...taa and will thank you In ad
vance for a personal reply. MRS. B. K.
I regret that I am unable to make
personal replies to correspondents,
though I am always glad to answer
questions of general interest in these
column.
..ii Ae on V. vnBV hftVA tnv
l no mi"" i--- ...- .. --
of the following causes: (1) Wrong
proportion oi nour; ui -
.. . it. . i T1 ... . i o Vi hsklnir now-
stronu UI 1 r. '
der; 14) Moving the cake before the
cell-walls are made firm by the heat;
(5) Wrong temperature In baking; (6)
Itemoval from the oven before the cake
. 1 - . - 1 .. .nnlr.H i 7 C CI I I Ti C QT a
1 rumiiiricij . . i - 1
cold surface or In a draft of cold air.
From what you say, i Bnouiu mum
.. . . i . I .. muv hn II fault! but
mat mo lw
I also suspect that you are Inclined
to "hustle tne cane it """"
soon as It looks brown and cooked.
This Is a very common mistake among
active, energetic housekeepers dealing
with cakes, cream puffs, and pop-overs,
lave them in the oven Just "a little
longer than seems absolutely- neces
sary " The flour for cakes should be
fine, white, and starcny. ii
give "strong" flour excellent for
bread, but not so good for cake and
pastry. "Strong" flour takes up more
moisture than "weak" flour; so that
you may actually be using a smaller
proportion than you realize in jout
cake-batter. If you cannot get cake
and paetrv flour, you might substitute
a certain amount of cornstarch for part
of the flour in your usual recipe. Just
how much I cannot say without know-
ei .., .-r.., enliyht hecin bV
lng your noui, - j ' .
taking out two tablespoons of flour from
each cup used, and adding two table
spoons cornstarcn insieaa. n u' "
but not yet pe"".'. m .o
spoons or even mor for every cup.
I remember when I was teaching in a
Dakota town some 'years ago. 1 one
morning received 14 telephone calls from
distressed housekeepers with fallen
cakes. There was some kind of a
church festival on hand and all good
housewives were making cakes for it.
But all good housewives had Just begun
using some extra good bread flour that
the local mill had recently put on the
market, and the first cake brought
trouble. I prescribed cornstarcn un-n
thenar wa. sore and my temper
... ii f Tnv inoiiirpr had "never
heard of such a thing." and there-were
long arguments and explanations. a.i..
however, came 14 more telephone calls)
thanks from "grateful patients" and
the newly-made cakes were "Just lovely.
It is not easv to prescribe for cakes by
telephone or by letter: but just give the
cornstarch or the pastry flour a trial,
and let me know if you are still unsuc
cessful. If you are, 1 11 try to make oth
er suggestions.
I hope to give next week the recipe
asked for ov Airs. ru. numauo
. . J tnv Xfl- T.
t in mustard nicKio uicmms --
IX ( Portland, l
Dry Shampoo Better
Then Soap and Water
From The New York Graphic)
"Once in two or three months is as
often as It 1 advisable to wash the
hair with soap and water." says C'larl
bel Montague, the beauty expert, "The
rubbing, drying and rinsing, together
with the action of the alkali In the
soap especially the alkali tend to
make the hair coarse., hard and brittle.
Too much moisture causes the hair to
become thin and lose its color.
A simple and satisfactory dry
shampoo Is made by mixing four ounces
of powdered orris root with four ounces
of therox. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of
this mixture on the head and brush
thoroughly through the hair once or
twice a week. That is all there is to
It This treatment not only keeps the
hair light, fluffy and lustrous, but
therox produces the growth of new
hair." Aiiv.
fas-1
ft-
"I am very glad to have an opportun
ity to speak a. word of appreciation of
the fine workmanship and general
excellence of theR&G Corsets. For
beaufy of line, comfort and durability
J have never found any to equal them.
Average figure and aver
age fit have no place in
the designing of R & G
Corsets.
They are the result of
years'of study of individ
ual figures and how to
provide a perfect model
for each. That is why
such a great majority of
women say that
R&G Corsets fit
their particular
figure as do no.
others.
8&
On Sale Everywhere