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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 5, 1911)
THE SUNDAY OKEGOMAX, TORTLAXD, FEBRUARY 5, 1011. 1 SEVERAL SMART MODELS SHOWN FOR WOOL AND COTTON GOWNS ORIiKHKD materials are to have K. an IniDirm voKUtf this summer, and they are already seen abundance In the shope. The Tallin. chiffon and cotton textures respond movt beautifully to these highly orna mental bol. fr such Hoods, hlle needinc lomi trlmmtna- or other, ara hard t be suited with rarnltures. Th band now worrn at one lda or bo I of tha goods luicil striped satin rib bona. Spanish Uces and tha odd ara beiues of Indian decorations and soma of tha bordartnKS show a riot of th richest color. Airatn. threads of blac or a heavy black band will ba run alrn tha most delicate tints, these riving the materials a very Frenchy look. fne niouseline da soie In A rlc ellow was bordered solidly v.lth black band sis Inches In depth. . ale Cray showed a blue band, and with a lirh Rnldn-brown muslin there was an edge of deeper brown sprayed over with flower In tha richest red. Tha banding of these lovely textures will ba used at tha bottom of skirt and In various becoming frocks on tha bodice, and as tha narrow frocks ara to ba continued, and most of the tez tures ara very wide, it will take very little material for tha new a-own. Alonz with these handsome ne things there ara counters and count er of thin textiles, all of which have keen creatly reduced, as they belong to tha Winter supplies and do not show tha latest touches. Nevertheless, these bargain goods ara most desirable, as It I an easy enouch matter to supply the effect of band of ribbon, satin er velvet, and In point of weight and coloring they do not In the least sug gest cold-weather materials. Besides, at this moment the heavier Winter gowns tike on what the French call a look of "fatigue," and In order to preserve the youth and freshness fash ion demands for wearers these should ba replaced very soon with between- seasoo things. For this purpose thi reduced textures are admirable, es perlally tha foulards that have been used nnder veilings, for these give certain body to a thin dres. and the nnder sheen of pattern and color Is till to be worn. For portions of bodices, nnder-xleeves. etc.. there are tunning bits of Persian chiffon that would ba found Invaluable, and since these are reduced to less than half their former price the elegance they upply will not mean great expendi ture. Velvets have also gone down considerably, and they will be worn until lata Xprlng that Is. the chiffon sort th.it cling to tha fluure and are not too burdensome In weight. Of course the bet ween-season gown calls for a new hat. and even with the Winter one headgear must be lightened now to seem In accordance with pre vailing tastes. So here ara Spring hats with us. and such Fprlnga hats high crowned, of coarse, brilliant straws and trimmed always with some dashing fancy plume or other that goes up to enormous heights. Those who prefer satin or silk hats will also find them everywhere, and as It Is quite the thing to make these of one color and trim them with another It Is possible to use up many bits of home material If the hats can be turned out by home sewers. On a satin shape of gun-metal gray a vivid blue ribbon , was massed so as to hide the entire rrown and ehape a vast bow at the back. Hlack and white effects In tha alio and silk hata ara also much seen and surely nothing could be smarter than this combination even though It Involves a bUck and white effect to a certain extent all through the get-up. Tet many women defy prejudice and wear such chapeaux w Ith frocks In any color, and if tha entire get-up la smart th thing Is not objectionable. The three pictures shown herewith offer admirable models for between season frocks, and tha models ara sufficiently new to do also for Spring. The styles ara simple enough for the homo sewer to attempt, and If there la any objection to tha narrowness of each gown It Is possible to Increase tha width to soma extent without loss of trie. However. If you wish to ba en tlrely up to date follow the narrow. Iess of the hour, for all French frocks how It. and any excess of width In a iklrt now gives something of an old fashioned air. Figure A Is a dres of splashed veil ing, short In the skirt and seml-tall- ! red. The bodice Is fitted with Gibson ! SUIts. and the sleeves are In shirtwaist style with a pointed cuff or plain satin. At tha front there I a pointed revers of tha satin held down at the top with three buttons, a pretty jabot of laca falling next to this. The top of the stock has a shaped band of the satin. A very new model Is shown In the skirt, which la made with a wide box plait back and front, a, hobble band of tha satin crossing the sides over deep foot plaltlngs. The buttons used at the knees on tha front box plait carry out the scheme of the waist and ara smart point. Any modes i cotton goods, or linen Suiting, would do for this dress, with the bodice ravers and laca Jabot left off. It Is also feasible for a shirt waist silk frock, and with soma change In the bottom of the sleeves tha style to a Spring- fir a handsome cloth as It Is for a plain linen. The model Is composed of an odd little kimono waist with elbow sleeves gathered Into ruffs, and a prln- sra young nowadays the model only calls for a slim and fairly good flxure I 10 and 40. Without the foot hand and "" l I 1 i ILni .iL'fl 1 i w i I II Ti l F1GURB B. I t t t m ...... case skirt coveting the tall of the waist and edged only with a heavy cord In lieu of belt. The graceful shoulder seams of tha waist make the fitting an easy matter, and the slight crossing of the bodice at the chest, where It 1 held with Its narrow foot band Is also very youthful, yet as all fashions lace Jabot this gown would be admira ble In linen, as the simple waist and buttoning of the skirt would permit easy laundering. It Is also adapted to a thin Spring serge, but a lightweight cotton or silk would not be appropri ate textures for the style. MAIlY DEAN. .Answers to Correspondents Is admirably adapted weight cloth. As tha frovk stands It might form one of the smart gowns In tha ward robe and be used for any service that doe not call for full dress. Figure B gives a kimono waist and princes skirt, tha two detail show ing admirably together In a pretty gray veiling and taotre silk In a matching olor. With these material white porcelain beads ara used effectively. The bodice begins with a closely fit. ting kimono waist of the moire, fin ished at the new with a round yoke of the veiling. beaded over. Two crossed bib piece of the veiling cover the lower part of tha bodice back and front, these running up to the yoke band In sharp beaded point. Straight band of the beaded veiling form the enffs and the narrow folded bell la of tha moire. In tha deep f.ot band of tha gathered skirt a novel touch Is given through tha shaping or the upper line, the former atralgVitness of such band be ing considered now a little unbecoming to any but tha slimmest and most youthful figure. This model as It stands Is undesirable for anything but a very drv frock, but such materials as mousseime and orcandv may ba seal ror It with variation of tha style of trimming. Veiling. chiffon and cashmere, or a thin silk with soma pretty wool are other adaptable ma terials. Figure O really give tha smartest gown or this group, despite Its sim plicity, and tha sola U as possible i BT LILIAN TINGLE. Marshfleld. Or- Jan. 17. Will you please give. In the columns of The Sun day Oregonlan. a recipe for apple sauce rake and also a recipe for vinegar sauce to be served with some kind of steamed pudding. Thanking you in ad vance. L. JL M. The following Is an economical apple sauce cake made without eggs. If you meant the richer kind, made with eggs, please write again: Apple Sauce Cake. One-half cup shortening. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup chopped and seeded raisins, sprinkled with flour; one-half teaspoon salt. 1 tea spoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon cloves, one-half teaspoon mace or nut meg. 1 teaspoon, (strictly level) soda, 1 cup unsweetened, very sour, apple sauce beaten smooth. 3 cups sifted flour. , Note that no I'qula. baking powder or eggs are called for. If the apples are not vary acid. It Is sometimes wise to add to them one level teaspoon cream of tartar. The exact amount and kind of spices can be varied to suit per sonal taste, and the raisins may be omitted. Sift together the dry Ingredients, ex cept the soda. Cream, but do not oil. the shortening: beat until light with the sugar: add the soda, dissolved, one tablespoon warm not bolling wator. Heat In the apple sauce, add tha raisins, then the dry Ingred'ents. Bake In a loaf or In muffin pans. If raisins are used, or In layers If the latter are omitted. Frost with plain white frost ing, or use a raisin or apple fllllug. Vinegar Pauce. The following Is a useful sauce for steamed puddings, but lemon Juice should be used In place of vinegar, unless the former Is abso lutely unobtainable. Few people would care for the flavor of vinegar used In this way. and soma might find It Indi gestible. The flavor might be modi fied by the use of spires. Spiced vine gar, from sweet pickles, or fruit vine gar, raspberry, plum or peach, make good pudding sauces. Kxact quanti ties of these can hardly be suggested, owing to their variability of flavor. Just use enough to make the sauce taste good. Melt 2 tablespoons butter. dd 3 tablespoons flour. Stir until frothy, but not brown. Add three- quarters cup water. Boll a few min utes, then add 1 to 4 tablespoons vine gar, according to personal taste and the strentgh of the vinegar used, and two-thirds cup brown sugar. If a richer sauce Is desired, stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons more butter, at the last, and bent well. Another way Is to pour the above hot sauce on a well-beaten egg. and beat, over hot water, until foamy. In this case a little more sugnr might be needed. Tho flavoring depends upon the kind of pudding served. Grated orange rind or mixed splcos might harmonise with inmc; a little ginger and grated lemon rind with others. Or cinnamon and cloves might be used. Or the sauce could he served plain. A scant tablespoonf ul of mo lasses would give a flavor liked by many people. Avoid using vanilla with lemon or vinegar, as an unpleas ant "halr-olf effect ' likely to be produced. Wrlto again if this Is not tha sauce you wanted. Stevenson. Wash., Jan. 1". Will you kindly have published in The Oregon lan your simplest recipe for salt-rising bread? Thank'ng you in advance. MRS. 11. R. S. The following la a slmnle recine. t-ince mud cup. wtih the salt, when mixing the doujrh. Tho exact amount of salt Is also a matter of personal taste. PORTLAND. Or.. Jan. 23. Will you kindly repeat the recipe for candied orange peel that you gave In The Ore iconlan. 1 think two or three months ago. The paper was destroyed before 1 had . an opportunity to cut it out. I want tho recipe for the kind you use In puddings, etc. A HOUSEKEEPER. There Is an office rule that recipes cannot be repeated within three months of their appearance in this col umn: but I think that tha time has Just expired in this case. Correspond ents are sometimes disappointed when recipes recently given cannot bo re peated, but the need and reason for this rule can be easily seen even with out a glance at my weekly mall. Candled orange peel Remove the peel from the oranges or lemons in 1 neat sections. Clean squeezed lemon or orange rinds may bo used, if the strlncry pulp is scraped away. Cover the peels with salted water, using one- half cup eait to one gallon water. Let stand over night, or even longer, if more convenient. The salted water should, however, be renewed within two or three days. Wle;n you are ready to candy the peel, wash It free from salt, place in a pan with cold wnter to cover, s.nd simmer until very tender. For every pound of peels. allow one pound or sugar and ono 1 pint of the water n which the peels were holicd. Slake a syrup with this and In it simmer the tender peels, until nearly nil the pyrup is absorbed. This need not bo done all at once. The peels may stand overnight in the syrup and be boiled up on successive days; if that Is more convenient. When tha syrup Is nearly absorbed and the peels quite transparent-looking, boll up rapidly for a few minutes and stir until the pieces are well coated with sugar crystals. Sep arate the plecessand let them dry in the warming oven, then store 'n a dry place. PORTLAND, Or.. Jan. .25. Can you, through The Oregonlan, give me a good recipe for fruit and ginger cookies? Also why are my cook'es always hard? I follow directions, but they always tarn out hard and unfit to eat when cold. How can one make Ice In cases of illness, when one cannot get tco? There are chemicals ono uses, but I do not know the particulars. Also, can I have a mustard dressing for pickles? Thanking you for the favor. MRS. J. D, I think cookie recipes have been given recently in these columns. I will re peat some as soon as possible. I think. however, that the trouble with your cookies lies less in the recipes used than In the handling and baking. Most cook'e recipes call for "flour to roll out" and the Inexperienced cookie-maker uses far more than Is necessary, with the na tural result of hardness and heaviness. A light hand with the rolling pin and a knack of keeping a thin film of flour on the surface of a soft mixture without stirring and kneading to get In as much flour as possible, will probably give you with your usual recipe, a much lighter, richer cookie. The texture of cookies is also, affected by the temperature of the oven. Quick baking and slow baking will give different results with tho same mixture. The knack of mixing and handling cookies can hardly be taught In print: but If you know a good cookie- baker, she could show you the trick la a three-minute lesson. In regard to Ice-making. I am not clear whether you mean how to make ice for cases of Illness when no Ice at all Is ob tainable, or when only impure, rough Ice is at hand. In the latter case, use Ice and salt in the ordinary way for freezing noMed and filtered water. There are small ice-making machines very simple and efficient most of thern using ammonia as a freezing agent; but the cost of these Is usually beyond the limit set for the ordinary domestic equipment. About the only freezing mixtures that can be used, in the home, witn nome appliances, with any degree of success, are given below. The quantity of Ice made Is small and neither of the meth- oLa is perfectly efficient. Ammonium chloride and saltpeter could probably be got in the necessary quantities from an ordinary drug store. Ammonium nitrate might not bo kept. In sufficient quanti ties., in a small store. In either case. It would be much cheaper to order from a large wholesale chemical firm. Method 1 I'so as a freezing mixture equal parts, by weight, of powdered am monium nitrate and cold water. Pack the domestic freezer with this mixture, pouring the water over the nitrate. Hare the water you wish to freeze in the cream can. Turn rather rapidly at n rat Let stand until hard. Method 2 Use five parts, by weight. ammonium chloride, five parts saltpeter and 16 parts cold water as a freezing mixture In an ordinary freezer. Have he water to be frozen boiled and chilled before being placed in the cream can. Do not expect very good results with these makeshift methods. Have all the water both that used In freezing and that to be frozen, as cold as possible. Be careful about the proportions. Do not depend upon It in cases of sickness until you have tried It and learned the best way of proceeding. Do not expect to freeze any large quantity of water or to do It inexpensively. If you wish to use these salts most economically they can be recovered from the solution by slow evaporation In a double boiler. If this s carefully done the same salts may be used over and over again. Be careful not to overheat them. Mustard rlckle Dressings have been printed repeatedlyi in these columns: but I will try to give you one as soon as pos- rlble. I am sorry not to have been able to help Mrs. K G. (Portland) with her partv. It Is not poiwiblo to make per sonal replies to correspondents and the date we a too near for a printed reply to do any good. I hope, however, that It was a success. I hope to reply next week to the folowlng: O. N. M. (Port- lnndt. Mrs. F. W. (Portland), Mrs. F. K. X. (SRlem) and Mrs. R. 8. B. (Portland). Some Good Things for the " Yalentiae Party 0 TSTF3R9 In Croustades For 12 por tions cut white bread In 12 slices. each one and a half Inches thick. Cut each slice Into heart shape and scoop out the Inside, leaving a wall a quarter of an inch thick on the sides and bottom. Butter each case freely and brown In the oven. Drain and wash a quart of oysters. Put them into a hot saucepan and stir carefully till the edges begin i r u.fu .ill 1110 Iff . .... . mentation of salt-rising bread, there Is : to curL raln- 'n l"0 liquor, men always an element of chance in its ruo four tablespoonfuls of butter, a neoDle nrefor ' toaspoonful or onion Juice and six tabiespooniujs ox iiour logeiuer in maKing. Though some the flavor peculiar to bread raised In this way. that made with fresh, pure cultivated yeast Is usually superior In point of nutrition and digestibility: Into a pint of lukewarm water sift and stir flour to make a drop batter. Let this stand In vessel of lukewarm water in a warm place, keeping the temperature as near 70 degrees F. as possible. When light and foamy add one quart lukewarm milk or water, 2 tealoons salt, and flour to make a quite stiff hatter or very soft dough. i;eai very morougmy as you mix. If yon have no breadnilxer an Inexpen sive domestic treasure that quickly pays for Itself in the saving of time and muscle, and in the Improved qual ity and sanitary condition of the bread use a heavy wooden spoon or paddle. Keep the mixture at the temperature of about 70 degrees F. until again light, place In pans, let rise again and bake In an oven of the same tempera ture as ror ordinary bread, in loaves of similar size, jo me people like the fla vor given by using one-quarter cup of white cornmeal with the flour for the ferment batter, others add sugar from one tablespoon to one-quarter a frying pan and cook thoroughly till brown. Add the hot liquor from the oysters and a cup of meal stock (water and beef extract may be used Instead). Season with a half spoonful of salt and a dash of cayenne pepper. Cook this till it makes a smooth sauce. When it Is boiling add the oysters and serve at once in the heart-shaped croustades. Love Apple Salad Dissolve two tea spoonfuls of granulated gelatine in one cup of water. Let it soak for 10 min utes and add it to a can of tomatoes, and place In a double boiler. Flavor with one clove, a bay leaf, a teaspoon ful of salt and paprika to taste. Boll tor 20 minutes. Then strain and pour Into 12 heart-shaped individual molds. When cold turn out on lettuce leaves. Have four cups of celery cut into half inch pieces. Mix With four cups of mayonnaise dressing and arrange In a border on the lettuce leaves around the tomato hearts. St. Valentine Sandwiches For these you will need a heart-shaped cutter which can be bought for about 6 cents. Have one loaf of white bread and one of graham. Spread each slice before mm, vr vfc for 1 v;jjV i-.'''&g j .' ... - mm hi . ' "V I Regardless of what your figure may be, of one thing you may be sure there's an R & G Corset which will mould you most effec tively to the fashion able lines of the moment yet will permit of the fullest freedom and comfort of movement. "The R & G Corsets are my favorite corsets. Even my gowns love them. ' On Sale Everywhere cutting with soft butter. Then cut very thin. Spread half the slices with the sandwich mixture. Cover with the plain buttered slices. Press firmly to gether and cut Into heart shapes. Keep the sandwiches covered with oil paper till needed. Fill some of the slices of brown bread with this mixture. To two cupfuls of very well cooked chick en chopped fine add a well beaten egg and a quarter of a cupful of thick cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Ftlr over hot water till the egg- thick ens. Take off from fire and when cool spread on the sandwich bread. A lit tle chopped pickle added to half of the mixtures will add variety. Spread some of the white bread slices with a mixture of watercress mixed with cream cheese and a little mayon naise dressing-. Spread either graham or white bread with a mixture of fresh cottage cheese, paprika, and minced parsley. A few plain bread and butter sandwiches are always acceptable. Sweet Briars Cream six tablnspoon- fuls of butter and add twice the quan tity of sugar. Mix well and add four escgs. Stir all well together. Then mix half a pound of pastry flour with four tablespoonfuls of grated cocoanut and the milk from the cocoanut. Mix all together. Put a tablespoonful of the batter into buttered cake pans and bake In a moderate oven till the cakes are a golden brown. When cold, Ice with a thin white iclnff and dip each cake Into a mixture of chopped al monds and candied cherries. te IWiKP! mtiiMlm lil I ill &z umv; wfc Ln, HJI!M!1 TH E AD J USTO irthrcorsef sensation cf the age; I tjs. the 'ultimate corset for every 'wbmaa whojwoukJ attain figure perfection MOST WOMEN; orfull figufe anci many of less generous proportions re-A jquire a specially designed corset on that will decrease and flatten the abdo men, reduce the hips and mould the form into graceful, fashionablejines SUCH A CORSET is this magical AD JUSTO the most successful figure 'reducing and form-beautifying corset ever produced. The.ADJUSTQ is PRACTICAL because it accomplishes its purpose with ease, comfort and safety ECONOMICAL because'it outwears two or three ordinary corsets and is reasonable in price DURABLE because'it is right! f made of the best materials, retains its original shape permanently and will not rust and further, it has the famous ADJUSTING BANDS which can be instantly tightened, loosened (without removing corset) to suit the wearer's comfort. , This one feature alone is well worth the price cf the corset. Ask your dealer for the AD JUSTO. If you cannot procure it we will direct you to nearest dealer, or send postpaid on receipt of price Royal Worcester Corset Co. 28 Geary St, SAN FRANCISCO Send for our Cartel Catalogue 1" miff" iipll or. . v;nyU. w&Nti Vif i MAKERS ALSO II Bon Ton Corsets Royal Worcester Corsets $3 TO S5 TO S3
