TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAXD, JANUARY 29, 1911. " ' ' 3 WTOQQI Were ffie. (z$fej&. Annie Laurn Miller Telf of tho TrMtirM 55fi Snw Wftfiiri'f lli 11 Historic otructure and Those on the Outside - . -V ' If -"" 1 j B :-:-,! .-. ' . . ' -f ,t iEv-i KrtSjA't--h rlifA"-- Hi --i-v. - :x-iirJ i - 'iv- -- C . . HI ANN'IB LAIRi MILXR. "Ve rB ARB olnr to Windsor." tr announced, to explain our rlr ippurtnce at break fast ooo mornlns In London. Vindaor wbara the caatl laT asked th barrister. In such weird nasal tones that we knew be waa trying to speak "the American language." "Once I went thrre by a alow train, and the most In terestlns; sltcht of the day was a hue American lady who thrust ber bead out of the window at erery station and askfrl the cuard. Is this Windsor where the cull Jr But I supposa you are coins; by the express." -We are." we aald; lfa safer." Eng lish reserre la so treat that It extends eren to the names of stations. We know just bow like a distracted hen that old lady felt. Dozens of -times we've looked out of the train to see the nam of the station, and found nothing but a Urge sign with either BorrlWor Upton's Tea on it. We've Just learned to look for the tiny names on the tops of the lamps, but have never been able yrt to see them before the train pulled out." ! HARDSHIPS OF STUDENT LIFE IN PARIS AS OBSERVED BY A PORTLAND WOMAN Trials, Disappointments md Dangers Taat Beset Ambitions American Girls Eager to Shine in Art The Cost of Instruction and the Incomparable Opportunities. , BY EMMA HECKLE MAKSHAIA. r the thousands of young people who dream of studying abroad Paris Is as the magnet to iron, for the stories of the centuries are filled with th gifts It offers to musicians and artists. In fact, to tha student In general, whether bla god be art or sci ence. There Is something very allur ing In the knowledge that student life . i.in.ii a feature of Parts as that other life that of th boulevard . -ki.t. mnch caDltal Is 1 U I w - - famous. t vnnw that th needs, the desire ven the Inclinations of student are .M.rA and catered to as carefully as are the demand of those whose sole aim la tt queat of gaiety. Is in usei ..ni-.inn However, the path of the Paris student 1 not softened with rose leaves. If she is determined to .. realises that to achieve success means hours of concentration and self-sacriflc sha will. IT tner is foundation on which to build, gain tha end for which she la striving, for in no other city Is thera a greater incentive to study or a better atmosphere to In spire than that of tha fascinating old French metropolis, but la no other city, either, ar thera mora stubborn ob stacle to overcome, mora heart-rending discouragements to surmount or greater temptations to resist than th foreigner finds barring progress here. It all. then, depend on tha Individual; on the dominance of her ambition; the Inflexibility of her purpose, her per severance and determination and her strength of character. Perhaps th latter attribute should be placed first as a penon of weak or vacillating character should never go abroad to study, however talented he or she may be. Paris is less censorious of men than women but. even so, thera la do sat plaea within her boundaries for a weak man. A Frenchman Is lnsoulcant and vola tile; It Is his nature to be so and comes as an Inheritance born of en vironment but It dova not interfere with th consummation of his ambition or with hi business. But th Ameri can Inherits a vastly different nalura and ona that cannot b assimilated with that of tha seemingly careless Frenchman, even after year of for eign residence, and therein lie th danger to the student of weak char acter. Th common. vry-day routine of life, as It has been for centuries to tha Parisian, appeals by It very differ ences. Its gaieties. Its apparent frothl nesa, to th sense of th stranger, who cannot and never will understand It, and th greater tha genius th greater th temptation sine genius and bal ance seldom go hand In hand. Tet I say again that to the student with ability who Is deeply In earnest and has strength of will sufficient to plod steadily onward toward the goal ambition has eet. Pah Is holds all that will make artistic aucoess possible. Student life. In It methods of study and ordinary avary-day routine. 1 "Toull have to hurry up." waa all the barrister said. In his best American. We did. and almost missed the train, perhaps because there were three of us. perhaps because Pat was helping us oft Pat Is the Irish porter and a Joy forever. He heaps coal on the draw-Ins;-room fire, places a chair In the cosiest corner. "There, sit you down," he says, "and warm yourself until the fire wears Itself away." He describes the bo and bills and heather of his beloved Connemara In wonderful prose poetry that brtnfrs the lovely, sad Irish country before our eyes. He knocks at the door and says. "It's me, the head porther." Oh, the fine Celtlo Imagina tion of the man! It Is a small hotel, the head porter la the only porter there Is; he la "boots' as well, and can be trusted to s;o to the nearest shop and buy a yard, of ribbon (black or white or green). We wonder how many un derlines, exist In his fancy, and If he la as kindly and cheerful with them as be is with us. On this morning be put us all In a taxi and gave directions wrong end to to the chauffeur. "Taddlogton much the same for both sexes and I have used the feminine pronoun be cause I am brought Into more intimate contact with the girls who are ambling along the well-beaten track, though circumstance and acquaintanceships have also initiated me Into a rather close association with a number of young men who ar also treading this same old time-worn way with more or less rapidity and promise of eventually reaching th goal of their ambition. e e I think that word "eventually" I a good on for the student abroad, to keep tacked up where the eyes can rest on It often, for It Is a good stimulant In tha dark hours of discouragement that com to everyone, a it stands for final triumph and Is a constant reminder that on cannot succeed In a few months or even In a year or two. Nat urally, If one comes here very advanced and with a repertoire, the time is pro portlonately short, but there are many who, at home, considered themselves advanced that And, when applying to a master here, that their method has been wrong or that a few songs and arias, however well sung, ar as noth ing to th teacher who demands a rep ertoire, and to him a repertoire does not mean an aria or so from a couple of well-known opera, but th entire cor of several. In fact, soma of th masters, whose charge approximate 2t a lesson, will not consider a puptl who has not a repertoire They will say. sometime wrathfully, "Why do you com to me for th rudiments? I don't teach be ginners. Go to or and learn your a b c's." In other words, ther do not teach breathing, ton production or vocal execution. This Is th busi ness of teachers of less note, often th assistants of the autocrats. The latter but f erfect. There ar exception, of course, where the autocrat recognises genius or unusual talent and desires the honor and credit of bringing tha fa vored on before th public but even for ber th path is strewn with sharp stones, for autocrats ar hard to please, uncertain as to temper and. to put It mildly, occasionally mora than harsh as to language and actions. It Is often asked. "Are ther not a good teachers In America as In Kuroper and the answer must truth fully be In the affirmative, particularly in view of the fact that the majority of the most successful European teach ers ar Americana. This is not only true of Parts but Berlin and many of the other musical cities of Europe. But In all tha arts the teacher la only the Instrument which makes progress possible. Atmosphere 1 an Important factor. and nowhere In America can on Ond the real atmos phere that la so apparent In the musi cal center abroad. To dilate on tbla would make an article In Itself, so we must waive It aside, fascinating as t! subject la. Environment counts for much and affords the reason why vo cal students congregste in the same section of the city. The same is true of Instrumentalists and artists also. As the majority of the teachers of singing are west of the river. In passy nd In the neighborhood of the Etolle. their pupils usually locate within walk ing distance of their studios. Tbe on advantage of the Latin Quarter Is tha fart that because It 1 the home of artist and th many station." he said. "Walt a minute." and dashed back Into tbe hotel for some for gotten overshoes. We didn't have to ask where the castle was, for we saw It standing Imposing and dignified as befits a residence of tbe kings of England, above the Thames and above tbe town. And when we reached the entrance, "They knew we were coming." we said (Perhaps our American Imagination has something in common with the Irish), "Isn't It wise of them?" for' a band of stalwart soldiers In gray coats snd black busbies was playing In front of the old stone gateway that looks down the narrow street where Nell Owynne's quaint house still stands. We went first to gaze on the great Norman Keep, a grim enough structure of feudal days, standing on a steep, l'ttle hill, once, no doubt, necessary for defense but now a most charming garden with rose bow ers, rurv'ng paths, nights of stone steps and thickets of evergreens rising from the grass plota and flowerbeds that Oil the old moat. Beyond, through a gate way. Is a lovely view from the north who are studying piano, organ and violin, it Is recognized a the "Stu dent Quarter." and In consequence has many good but cheap restaurants which cater entirely to th thousands whose ambition 1 rampant but whose purses are lean. Ther 1 little difference In living expenses In different part of Paris if ona wishes to live comfortably. If one must live In an attic and subsist on the cheapest fare naturally she seeks the poorer sections of th city, but If such condition are necessary aha should be at home, not In Paris. On ha choice of three modes of living: A pension, or boarding-house; a room, with meal separate; or an apartment, but In the end th expense is about th same. In one of th most Inexpensive of tha comfortable pensions In the Latin Quarter a young man ct my acquaint ance pays S franc (about $1) a day for a small room and three meals. breakfast consisting of rolls and coffee. He furnishes his own light and heat. the light being derived from a coal oil lamp 'and th warmth from a grate In which he burn coal. A grata Is as much a part of a Paris room as Its en trance door, A sack of coal costs about 90 cents and In the cold, damp weather, which Is characteristic of Paris Winters, lasts about a week. Of course, he tips tbe maid well for at tending to lamps and ashes. He practices dally on a big organ at th organ factory, a privilege ac corded organ students because they ar not allowed to use the organs in the churches. In hi room he ha a piano with an organ pedal attachment which serve for purposes of technique. Hi also has an alcohol lamp and a chafing dish and can make and serve tea as gracefully a an English wo man, and Is constantly seeking to en large his book of chafing dish recipes. e A few doors from him lives another student of organ and piano. He has a large corner room which look out on a wide, busy boulevard. A grand piano occupies tha greater part of the space, while a rack filled with music that brings a shudder to tha finger of the amatur performer, a case of book on composer and their works, and the grata fill tha remainder of th wall space. He, too. pay extra for light and heat In addition to hi lit room rent per month, but he eats where fancy dictates, which Is sometimes at "Hen rietta's." or, as It has long been known to fame. "The Queen of Hearts," the latter title being derived from the wall decorations Illustrating the old nuqsery rhymes. Sometimes he goes to "La Due's." also well-known In the quar ter, or to some other favorite cafe where a good meal can be obtained for a frano or two. He, too, la provided with the stu dent's usual equipment for making tea and many a Jolly spread In bis apart ment has for guest "men only," for on th Continent men ar quite as con firmed tea drinkers as women. In the student cafes one may eat as ' expensively as the pocketbook will al low, and temptation plucks bard at Its clasp for the food Is most attractive to nostril and palate. Many girls live In the same manner a these young men, but frequently several girls will club together and rent an apartment, either taking turns terrace: In the distance Eton chapel ris ing above the other school buildings, nearer the Thames, flooded by recent rains, a meadow with sheep browsing, and just below, big beeches rising from a garden with lawns and winding walks. The state apartments were open that day, not the ones occupied by the pres ent King, but the ones used for the en tertainment of royal guests, and a guard took ua through. First we. were asked to admire a dinner set of Crown Derby. I didn't: In the china closet of my mind I put Crown Derby on the high top shelf, quite out of sight, where the kind ly dust may cover It (It Is not a t'dy top shelf), and keep any other porcelain whatever polished and shining on a level with my eyes. Then we came to a stair case with suits of medieval armor; these 'we could admire and the husky men who wore them in the days of short-distance fighting. Steel clothing Is no longer fashionable; even war seems to have grown more comfortable since those days. Beyond was a dining-room with wonderful wood carvings by Grin ling Gibbons. Grinllng Gibbons Is one of tbe most painful subjects In England. The BngllBh are people of veracity, and yet Grinllng Gibbons either worked all of his lifetime without eating and sleep ing or taking advantage of bank holidays .1 AnH thf. la.t h,rHlv Imarln. able In an Englishman), or else he did ' with the housework or hiring a maid, but unless they have a chaperon this way of living Is not advisable in Paris, where American freedom of action is not understood and hence Is censured. With a chaperon, apartment life pre sents some desirable features, as It ad mits of more room to stretch, gives a greater home feeling and Insures a privacy that is impossible In a pension or rooming-house. Pension rates range from 5 franca a day In tha cheaper pensions of the Latin Qarter to in the section west of the river, though the average rat paid by students in Passy Is 7 franca a day, exclusive of light, heat and baths. The latter Is quite an item to the one who Indulges fre quently In the tub, as th price per bath averages a frano and a half, without counting the tip of 25 or BO centimes. Few of the houses In the Latin Quarter are provided with bath rooms and the inmates or tnese are obliged to patronize a public establish ment when ablutions by the medium of bowl and pitcher are deemed Inade quate. Student life in a pension 1 some times productive of better results than the quieter life In an apartment, for the reason that during meal and In th nvftntiiffi thtnra nertainlnsr to mu- flln anri mnslriana are freauently dis cussed, and this Interchange of thought and Ideas Is Inspirational a wen as educational, while the sound of prac ticing creates an atmosphere of wotk of whioh on Is forced to be a part. A drona finds little encouragement In a pension which houses earnest workers. But here again Is the necessity for strength of character, apparent since pension life presents more distractions ih,n th hnma life of the anartment as there are always some boarders who ar not ' students, and these sometimes engage the attention of even a well- intentioned student ana incline nr w i . . .h(,.h tr..n hr tin late at MWr ..... r night, and late nours ana siuay -solutely incompatible. a ki.ha l. r f .niirM a renulsite to th music student and fortunately ren tals are low. The work of the pianist demands a better Instrument and con- C4Udk,7 . 1"B' - r - - than that of the vocal student, who can secure a small but excellent piano ior IS.40 per momn. r.. n, launn varies, the aver age rate charged by good teacher be ing 15, on a basis oi iure ichum . week. Teachers like De Resque nave jif.l.it. u fininar their time with American pupils at $25 per lesson, but are willing to taae a cm wi for $10 per lesson each. Not bad, eh? t..ii i.inhtn usuallv Insist that the pupil have the services of an accom panist who snail also coacn in uicuira at least twice a week and. unless the pupil Is proficient in French, she must aim take from two to three lessons a week in that language. If the student Is preparing for the oporatlc stage, dramatic art and stage work require another teacher who will not be content with less than two les sons a week. If one is studying with tha Idea of teaching, these lessons are recommended because of a better com prehension and Interpretation of the text. The prices charged by tnese instructors vary, but tre usual rate asked by the diction teacher and the dramatlo Instructor Is 11 per hour, while French lesson average 50 cents each. Musical compositions cost about as much as In America, but as every teacher demands .that his advanced pu pil shall become proficient in several operas during the year and these scores approximate 12 each with an additional 80 cents for a permanent binding, it will be seen that music alone Is no small Item In a year's ex penses. Another Item seldom considered by some of It by machinery or hired It done. No one man could have done so much wood carving as he Is credited with In England; but we granted him that In Windsor Castle, so exquisitely are the fruit and fish and game carved over the doorways. , Beyond was the magnificently propor tioned : long banqueting hall, used last, so we 'were toM, for a great state ban quet then Manuel. King of Portugal, was guest of honor, the same young Manuel who Is attending lectures at Oxford thia Winter, planning a trip around the world, and hoping that his turbulent people will call him back to the throne. There are many other rooms, very elegant, with handsome Persian carpttA brocade walls and rare paintings by Holbein, Van Dyck and other artists. One of the most interesting is the long room used last when Manuel waa made a Knight of the Garter. The chairs and carpets are of beautiful blue with the motto of the order woven In and at one end of the room is a gorgeous, gold en throne of Indian workmanship, all set with amethysts. The most beautiful room Is the reception hall where guests assemble after dining; it is all of mirrors and gold with elaborate crystal chande liers and must present a gay sight at night. see , .n a in of noo.cn'. rhanel. the AllCl.MU am j . . ' verger took ua around. He had so much to say of Queen victoria tnai. mmims" thi girl contemplating a year or two of study abroad is th opera. Euro pean teachers consider attendance at the opera part of the regular curric ulum whether the student Is preparing for the operatic stage or fitting her self to teach. The cheapest seats in th Grand Opera-House are two franca, equivalent to 40 cents, but they are not considered very desirable even by a regular "gal lery god." The usual price paid by students at this house approximates four francs and even then one ascends to a gallery at a height quite unknown In American theaters. However, the students console themselves with the thought that sound asce'nds and one gets the real quality of tone in the high tiers and enjoys a segregation of voices and Instrumental harmony which one. fails to perceive In Its per fection In the more expensive seats far below. Seats at the Opera Comlque and the Galta are cheaper and the musio Is often better than one hears at tho larger house. Here the students pat ronize the topmost gallery where prices are two francs for the best seats and one franc for the cheapest. Fortunately for the girls, ladies may attend the theaters and similar places of amusement without male escort, but It Is always advisable, I might say, almost imperative for two girls to be accompanied by an older woman, as French etiquette regards the unattend ed woman as fair prey for street loung ers. Pari Is kind to th student who comes with ample money to supply her needs, but woe to her who Is so un sophisticated as to dream of getting along 'on a small amount. For her the end comes quickly. If she Is strong of character, strong enough to go home and tell the truth she will succeed in the end If she has talent, but If a false pride forbids her to acknowledge her self mistaken In her estimate of the cost of living and lessons, or, hardest of all, to confess that she had over rated her own abilities, and sne refuses to return to friends or relatives at home the finale is tragically pitiful for Parts Is not kind to such as she, because she does not understand Its people nor they her, and so well, there are beasts of prey here, as elsewhere, eager to pounce on tbe weak or the discouraged. Pathetic are some of the appeals for help made to the public through the columns of the Paris edition of the New York Herald, most of them un doubtedly genuine. True, there are generous-hearted people who endeavor to keep In touch . with the needy stu dents, but they cannot reach or help all cases. The churches do what they can to encourage attendance and confidence and at the Sunday night meetings musi cal programmes are rendered by pro fessional artists. At a recent meeting In the Students' Atelier, in the Latin Quarter, Arthur Hartmann, the famous violinist, whom Portland people gladly pay high prices to hear, rendered seven numbers in his best style with' no thought of remuneration other than the pleasure he was giving to appreciative students, because he, too, had once been one of them and the memory of those days stands side by side with the triumphs of his later years. These Atelier reunions on Sunday evening are always crowded, the au diences numbering at least 00 English speaking students, showing In their apparel every degree of prosperity or its reverse. Some of the faces evidence contentment and the self-satisfaction that hard study gives, but on some of them there is something strongly sug gestive not only of poverty but of the last flickerings of hope, and to them these meetings mean more than words can express. we had never seen her, the little widowed queen who ruled her people so long be came a reality to us. Above the choir of the chapel le a sort of royal box where Anne Boleyn with Jane Seymour In her train sat to see her father knighted. Here after Prince Albert died Queen Victoria ueed to Bit during ser vice. She wished to give no trouble, the verger said, so always lighted and blew out her own candles and went away, locking the door behind her, never think ing of the open fire that must be made before and put out, after she went away, with great care lest some part of the old chapel catch fire. Queen Mary eat In the box when the late King Edward's funeral services were held here. High In the choir hang the brilliant banners of the Knights of the Garter. King Ed ward VII's is still among them and will not be taken down until the coronation next Spring. In a small side chapel is the monu ment to Princess Charlotte, considered by many people, one of the most beautiful of modern monuments. A golden light from the windows takes away some of the austerity of the marble and touches tenderly the radiant, ascending figure of the princess, the shrouded body below, and the mourners at the corners. We stood quite dumb before It; it is one of those perfect things, rarely seen, that take away words and thought and fill one with a reverence greater than either. Ignorant we didn't know who the Prin cess Charlotte was we ha"d never heard IRVING'S MEMORY MADE IMMORTAL IN BRONZE Statue of "Wonderful Late Actor Unveiled in London Son Speaks With Gratitude and Emotion of Career of Father. ;-r JSvJ!t . if lb I 4 f i 4,4 - ' " , , J uts'i fvc j iJ ' I v 111- , ' I - II ' , ' I fc. i I - - HEXRY IKVIXG STATUE, WHICH SHOWS TIIE GREAT ACTOR IX HIS UOBES AS DOCTOR OF LETTERS, ONDON, Jan. 2S. (Special.) When your holiday makers take possession of the metropolis again next year. they will find a fresh object of Interest in the statue which has been erected in mem ory of Sir Henry Irving. The memorial Is of bronre. nine feet in height and stands at the back of the National Gal lery, v All sorta of people dlstinguisnea in drama and 'literature associated them selves with the unveiling ceremony, ear rled out by Sir John Hare, who said tho memorial would not only speak to future generations of the greatest actor of the time, but also of the legacy of venera tion and affection he left to the brothers and edsters In the art he loved and served so well. H. B. Irving spoke on behalf of his father's family with - gratitude and emo tion, telling the famou? actors and act resses gathering around him that if ever a man was master of his fate and captain of his soul. It was his father. The etatue, which is the work of Thomas Brock,' B, A bear the follow before of the sculptor but we saw befo us the sadness of death and the hope a Joy of a life beyond i The Albert Chapel where King E ward VII is buried is closed to ti public during the court's year mourning. Through a gateway to V left we came to the horseshoe cloiste with their picturesque buildings red bricks and brown oak timbers, one of the rooms Shakespeare's "Mer Wives of Windsor" was played for t first time. Beyond Is the old belfi built hundreds of years ago of gre oak beams that will last hundreds years more. Strangely enough. It w. like nothing so much as the old Jap nese feudal castle at Nagoya, built S years ago by a famous Japanese ge; eral. We wondered if tbe Japane got his idea from Europe at that ear date. Then we went to the mews. It ce talnly Is a "good billet" as the Brlth say, to be carriage horse to the Kli of England. No horse can look do on the position; the company is e elusive, board excellent, private apar ments luxurious, attendance all th can be desired. A Paris cab hor would think himself In heaven. T royal carriage horses are dappl grays, while all the riding horses ai the carriage horses for guests a bays, and there are 100 all told. Tv. new horses, just bought, were restiM and looked at us with curiosity, havli evidently not acquired enough cou manners to make them aloof and di nlfled like their companions. W didn't try to count the carriages baggage wagons, but were lntereste In the little low carriage Queen VI torla used In ber last years and the small white Hungarian ponies thai drew it. The ponies are growing o now and are used only by the royil children. We drove to Eton through a qualrj street where Eton schoolboys slouche along with hands In their trouset pockets. I think the Eton slouch mur be only to counteract the effect the "topper"; it seems to be a kind cl protest against that head covering, most unbecoming and unnatural hea covering and of a dignity abhorrert to their boyish souls. Have you eve seen the masculine being, boy or mat who wore a "high hat" of his ow free will, who didn't feel In his lnne consciousness that it was the mod absurd hat ever invented? The school was founded by Henr IV, and on the day we were ther his statue in the quadrangle wore huge green wreath bung on It o founder's day. It was dim twilight 1 tho chapel but we saw Watt's famou picture of Sir Galahad, the young un tried knight. standing beside hi charger, a picture so popular In Amer lea that one sees copies or it every where. We were so relieved to see i and like it for we couldn't like Watt' pictures in the Tate gallery In Londorj It's the proper thing to like them an very uncomfortable If yeu don't. W saw the library and learned that Lor Roberts Is Eton's most dlstlngulshe living graduate; then It was train time (train-time seems to come oftene than mealtime when we are tourists) s we drove bac'h through the queer ol street to the station and on the wa saw the pale new moon hanging ove Windsor Castle. v . t. we -4 mm ing inscription "Henry Irving, Actor, Born 1S3S. Died 1905. Knight. Lltt. D. Dublin: D. Litt. Cambridge. Erected by English actors and actreases and by oth ers connected with the theater in this country." Tho statue represents Irving In the robes of a Doctor of Letters, with one hand on his hip and the other hold ing a roll of manuscript. A Tar on Shore. Detroit Free Press. George von L. Meyer, the Secretary of the Navy, praised at a naval dinner In Washington the old sea dog. "One of these typical old sea dogs." he ended, "was persuaded one day In Phila delphia to attend a tea. I met him a short time afterward, and paid: " 'Well, Marllnspike, I hear you've been doing tea parties In Philadelphia?" " 'Yes, sir.' the old salt replied. I did go to one tea party, sir.' " 'And how did you feel there among all those ladles?' I asked. " 'I felt like a sperm whale doing cro chet work he applied.' Iff 4. i: it n mv I