fllE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JANUARY 15, 1911.
THE CORRECT LINES FOR WEARING
PRESENT-DAY FASHIONABLE DRESS
T) those who understand the history
of dress fashion seems to have
reached a Mace of more perfection
than the world baa ever known. Comfort,
beauty and common sense are admirably
friended. Skirts for walking purposes are
short, as they 'should be; they are narrow,
slimming In tendency and immensely
chic The ohort. trim coats that go with
wh skirts, when well made and in milt
able textures, take a good 15 years from
tlie middle-aged woman's life. There Is
no such thing. Indeed, as the hateful
"certain age" In present dresw. One la
ether young or else old. for under SO
walking frocks have pretty much the
tame character.
Of course there are many freaks al
ways who prefer the exaggerations of
dress, but happily thes are now bring
snubbed Into obedience to the general
trend. The woman who goes forth got
up like a comic Illustration Is not In the
fashion. See what good sense and taste
kave done. with the hobble skirt. Once
a thing of the utmost foolishness; it Is
now hailed by woman as one of her
emancipations. The absurd quantities of
materials employed a fow seasons sgo
now eeem the heiBht of sinfulness; Three
yards and a half of double-width goods,
even or a little over of single, now turn
out s delightful frock, and there are wo
men who know how to do the thing with
less. No wonder an able preacher and
a Judge on the bench have put In a
good word for the hobble skirl, and the
husbands who once paid for the 18 or
3 yards of this or that nhould. In conse
quence of this much v!llfld garment
alone, offer up votive tributes at the
shrine of fashion. . We are no longer
mere vehicles for the street germ; we are
lighter In weight, we are old at a much
later date, our waists are comfortably
big. and we are happier, friskier and.
In a way. lee expensive.
But only In a way, for desirable ma
terials are" still dear. looms are turning
out more wonderful, things every day,
and It Is the mode to wear good clothes.
How much depends upon the corset,
tipon the eye of the wearer for Une! The
woman who knows what's what never
buys) a high busted corset or one that
curves too much Into the waist. She
takes the one that never hollows the
body In at the front, with bust line be
low that of the figure, with a long bot
tom that holds down lower curves. Such
a corset gives the figure a straight line,
snd It teaches) the wearer to hold up her
ehrnt. how to breathe properly, and so
cold the bust firm. If she Is over-de-veloped
here she buys a corset cover of
slout coutll. made with bias fronts; long
and narrowing st the end and fitted over
the bust with a tiny tucking.
The very materlala consider line above
all things now-a-days. Street materials
are in the plain colors that conduce to
eft mn ess. and alt trimmings are put on
with the same eye. Such evening mi
'terials aa are Towered are veiled so that
tne outlines of the patterning are lost
and crude colors shine through the out
side In only a rich, soft blur. Kveryday
shirtwaist are compact little things that
Ignore the startling plaid and checks of
long ago. and the roughest topcoat for
bad weather even. Is made a garment
with a certain elegance through the
, wiere choice of tints and weaves that lenj
look of youthfulnrsa and sllmness. In
way. we are only big. conspicuous, with
our furs and hats. Both are enormous,
snd though bats are cheaper than of yore
furs are dearer. Aa a trimming, too. the
animal skin Is nsed on everything, street
frocks, evening toilets of the thinnest
gnus, wedding satins, mourning bon
nets. There Is a terrible danger with the
present lavish use of thle gracious and
ever becoming cold weather material
wild animals are becoming exterminated
so rapidly we mar not have a muff next
year. But sufficient unto the dsy is the
loveliness thereof.
Some admlrabla effects for women an-1
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misses In the prevailing linea are shown
upon the pace.
Picture A (tlvea three frocks a velvet
street suit trimmed with fur. a plaited
pklrt and shirtwaist for simple Indoor
wear and a draped dress of veiling for
smarter use. The velvet walking suit.
which might do for a model for velveteen,
corduroy, cloth or serge, has tho Juve
nile lines of the moment, and Jhe fur
could be omittrd without loss of style.
The present costume is of black, with
bands of gray Australian opossum and a
heavy tucked silk In a rich blue on the
collar. If of serge, a wide black braid,
employed like the present trimming,
would be admirable. Red fox would be
effective on brown velveteen and black
or brown fox would be handsome on a
smoky gray cloth. At the back of the
coat, and at the fronts if necessary.
there should be leaden weights to hold!
the garment down.
Any pretty serge or light-weight suit
ing In an agreeable color or black would
do for the smart plaited skirt of tho
middle figure, and the dainty shirtwaist
might be In a matching silk. A shnrp
contrast between the bodice and skirt
Is not now greatly admired, though
there are many women who still affect
the white bodices In lawn, mousacllne.
net and lace for gowns In any color. But
fashion Itself calls for a sequence with
a black skirt the waist materials show
an Inky note, a brown skirt, a brown
and white waist and so on. This same
ness of color from neck to heels, even If
treating note, holds the figure together
makes It slimmer In short.
The little draped frock at the left of
this picture can be developed In any
softly-falling material, and be made as
well of a thin cloth. Velvet, or any of
Its kindred textures, would be unsuitable
for It. aa these materials could not be
plaited effectively and the overdress calls
for a texture with a softer drop. In
the present Instance the costume is of
a pale cream cloth, with black braiding
and a banding In black and cream
striped silk. The stock, yoke and vest
piece Is of plain white tucked net over a
plastron of blsck sutin. Veilings In a
pretty gray, violet, dim green, golden
brown or any other shade are all pretty
for this frock, whose trimmings might
be of the simplest silk In a matching col
or. With silk as the gown texture plain
satin would be an agreeable trimming
and according to material the model Is
suited to the best dress in tho wardrobe
The Proper Use
A COLD CREAM that suits one skin
to perfection will cause another
misery. The Individual woman
must settle the thing herself, and If
after trying several creams she finds
nothing; that agrees with her complex
ion it is pretty sate to assume that she
haa not yet found the right unguent
or Is using them all wrongly.
No species of unguent must be put
upon the face until the skin haa been
cleansed of soli and softened by the
warm bath. In the daytime the face
ran be cleansed occasionally with tha
cream, but it Is better to get used to It
only at night, for where the fare skin
is concerned there is such a thing as
using too much grease. In the applica
tion of all unguents massage is half tha
battle, so the trick many women have
of dabbing on a blob of cream and
smearing it lightly over the face Is all
wrong. The lubricant roust be worked
down Into the pores for the velvety
softness desired to come, and after they
have absorbed all that they will the
remaining olllness must be removed
with a soft cloth. If this superfluous
quantity of cream Is left on the akin
it only does harm The pores get so
used to the drenching that they won't
act without It. and all that Ilea on top,
or to a comparatively simple house gar
ment. Picture B gives two garments which
are indispensable In the schoolgirl's
wardrobe a pretty afternoon dress and
a polo top coat. The dress Is of a thtn
nlsh French wool In brown snd white.
and it Is trimmed with pipings of plain
brown and round brown crocheted but
tons. The vest is rf a pure white lace In
a simple patlern. decked wfh five tiny
lnws of brown silk. The. hair bows are
of white taffots. and the shoes of brown
velvet with brass buckles. The whole
get-up, as H stands, displays the utmost
elegance desplte the simplicity of the
gown, but a wool in a plain color, and a
more ordinary gulmpe. would turn the de
sign Into a very practical thing. Blue
serge would make a smart school dress
In this way, and a deep coral cloth, with
the bottoms of the sleeves made a little
more elaborately, would be a stylish and
becoming material for dress up.
The polo coat, which is the sort of top
garment a mother would buy for her
daughter when she cannot afford a fine
coat suit and furs. Is of a reversible
tweed, the outer side mottled, and the
tinder plaided. This turns over to form
the collar and cuffs, which are plainly
cdiid with a cloth in one of the colors.
Such coats, while loose, are very becom
ing to young' figures, and they may be
bought ready made from J 15 up. But they
would cost far less If made at home, and
as Winter materials are greatly reduced
just now It is possible for the home sewer
to turn out one of these coats for $8 or
$;. When made In one of the furry white
coatings, or in a pals blue or gray, the
polo coats make admirable evening wraps
for young girls. Huge brass buttons are
used on the coats for evening use, and
sometimes a smart one is provided with
an attached hood, silk lined.
And now pray take a look at the hat
this girl wears and also at the muff In
the other picture. Such simple hat
shapes are often made of a plain coating
material, this forming the puffed crown,
around which goes a band of velvet or
satin with any finish at the side that is
liked.
The muff carried by the velvet-clad
lady is also made of her gown materials,
and the two hints are about the most
valuable fashion has to give at this mo
ment. The two details are easily made at
home, and the fact that they- match a
gown or coat gives them added distinc
tion. MART DEAN.
MART DEAN.
of Cold Creams
only hardens or gets rank under at
mospheric changes. Many species of
pimples and hard dry akin may be at
tributed to an overuse of cold cream.
I have talked before of the simple
methods of masssge that may be used
at home, so I will say here that tha
manipulation must be none In a way to
hinder or correct the lines that come In
the course of time. The beauty people
nse the three long fingers of each hand,
and with a firm yet gentle touch rub
outward and upward, in a rotary man
ner, over a place as big as a silver
half dollar. Bit by bit all the face Is
gone over in this way, and the patient
can easily tell when the Important
cheek muscles have been touched by
seeing the skin pull taut about the
mouth, thus effacing the drooping lines
at the side of the nose. Tha muscles
that run from the corners of tho mouth
over the cheek bones are massaged
with a clawing movement, which must
be light and quick, but not pinching.
This fills out hollow cheeks and ban
ishes the lines of worry about the
mouth ami nose. Hollow temples
should be clawed up In the same light,
brisk way and afterword treated to the
rotary movements.
After the expert masseuse has gone
all over the face with, these upward and
outward movements, and the others
necessary, she gives some final heavy
strokes, using the flat of four fingers,
"palmer way," as they call it. These
go from the center of the forehead
outward, and back of the ears down
ward on the veins at the side of the
neck: she also goes upward at the side
of the mouth and nose with the palmer
strokes, and from the chin to the ears
to empty the veins and promote better
circulation. To conclude there are a
few moments of general rotating and
soft stroking.
All this sounds very complicated, but
It is simple enough when one catches
the trick, and two of such face treat
ments a week are required by all per
sons who use cold creams.
The quantity of unguent employed at
a time depends on the condition of the
skin. If there are blackheads there
will need to be more than If the face
skin were merely hard and dry. the
former condition needing quite a quan
tity of the grease to open the pores
and force them to yield their hardened
contents, and the latter calling chiefly
for the friction and barely as much
unguent as will keep the skin from
irritation. So from a mustard spoon
ful of cream, to a scant tablespoonf ul
may be needed. ,
Concerning the right kind of un
guent required for the face that re
sponds badly to most things, I have
known excellent results to come from
a very weak solution of glycerin and
rosewater.
Pure glycerin Is perhaps the most
valuable cosmetic existing for skin uses
and as It has a solvent power over
the coloring matter, when it agrees
with a skin the steady use of it is
highly bleaching. It must never be
used in a concentrated form, as It ab
stracts too much water from, the skin
and the result Is stinging and burning.
My own proportions are about a table
spoonful of glycer'n to a two-ounce
bottle of rosewater. White vaseline
and cocoa butter also agree better with
many skins than a more complicated
unguent, but their effect can only bs
decided by careful experiment. Then
the danger with both of these is that
they may Increase superfluous hair.
FORMAL COURTESIES
FOR THE YOUNG GIRLS
I
HAVE so often written of the moral
side of'a young girl's manners that
I want to write here simply of
formalities.
One of the;mo8t Important things a
girl should know how to do Is to write
a graceful social note, or letter. The
ink used in writing any letters must
always be black, the stationery pure
white, the paper rather thick and in
two sizes, letter and note. When send
ing off a foreign letter It Is wise to
use the very thin paper called "onion
skin," as it is very annoying to persons
In Europe to be presented with a let
ter with something "due," as is pretty
often the rase when the heavier paper
Is used. Besides, It Is a social faux
pas not to keep oneself Informed of
postal rates to the extent, at least,
of not sending a letter until It has been
duly stamped. j
Ruled paper Is not an evidence of
polite knowledge and as for writing
with a pencil it Is the height of Ig
norance. Neither fashion nor taste tol
erates a letter covered with blots and
eraslons and made laughable with bad
spelling. As the old copy books used
to put It. "never spell aunt a-n-t."
These trifles are the first steps and
form is the next.
When writing to friends or acquaint
ances the polite girl signs her letters
nd notes "Cordially yours" and "Yours
.sincerely." Cordially is never used for
warm friends, and neither is the word
"My" when beginning the letter, as
My dear Miss So and So." A word
to a man Is signed "Sincerely yours,"
f aithfully .yours or "Cordially yours.
The girl must not put Miss before
her signature Miss Belle Green un
less she is writing to -an absolute
stranger, when it is correct to Inclose
the prefix in brackets, thus (Miss)
Belle Oreen.
' Postage must never be inclosed for
reply except in notes or letters that
are strictly business communications,
as society calls for one thing and busi
ness another. Socially enclosing post
age for the return letter would be an
Insult: not to do It with business would
Incur the likelihood of getting no an
swer. Mr., Mrs. and Miss are polite
handles for every name that goes upon
social envelope, for except with a
business firm, where the bill heads
would read George Washington fc Co.,
or something like that. It Is a pretty
good thing to give a handle to the
whole world. The thing Is done In
Europe one says madame to the wash
erwoman, monsieur to the policeman
and the ceremonious address Is an evi
dence of one's own self respect.
In the ordinary letters she writes to
young friends a girl Is pretty apt to be
natural, simple and consequently cor
rect, but when It comes to congratula
tions, condolence and farewells, she Is
sometimes stumped. A good rule is to
be as simple as possible with special
communications, the note or letter that
calls for some sort of expression suited
only to this moment. A letter of con
dolence needs to be short and of the
simplest sort. In a few heartfelt words
of the familiar sort you are both used
to you can let your correspondent know
how you regret the great loss he or
she has suffered. This note must be
written almost Immediately after the
funeral, and the Instant the news of
the death comes the visiting card is
left at the house-
Letters of Introduction are never
sealed by the person giving them; they
are left unsealed so the recipient can
see Just what Is said, and when the
third person has received the written
Introduction It is the worst of taste
not to acknowledge it with a polite
note or call. In either of which, of
course, pleasure is shown in knowing
the newcomer.
The usual letter of introduction one
girl would write for another would read
something like this:
"Dear Mabel: -
"This Is to Introduce my friend. Miss
Katharine Smith, who will be in Phila
delphia for a little while, staying at the
Ingleton. She is one of my chums so
I hope you will be the best of friends
too.
"Affectionately yours,
"Lucy Lee."
The strange young lady must be
called Miss In this note, but when the
two young ladles meet It is perfectly
proper for them to drop Into the Lucy
and Katherlne. In fact, fashion has
set the pace for dropping a formal
address where young people are con
cerned, and even if the new acquaint
ance is a young man it may be Jack
and Lucy pretty soon.
The news of a friend's engagement is
at once followed with a gracious note. In
which the writer says the usual plati
tudes, "I was delighted to hear of the
great event and know you will be glori
ously ' happy." and so on. A compli
ment of some sort to the future bride
groom is also In keeping in the con
gratulatory letter, and If the writer
does not know him she expresses the
hope that she may have that pleasure
very soon.
Except when calling upon compara
tive strangers, a girl under 16 rarely
uses visiting cards for calls. But she
has them nevertheless narrow little bits
of pasteboard, with Miss before her
name, and she puts them with all her
little presents to girl friends and boys,
and she haa them because one cannot i
where there is a disposition to have It,
as their action on the hair follicles is
very stimulating.
As to the cheapest cold cream that
can be fashioned at home. It can be
made of pure leaf lard, the sort that
comes In the tin for rrylng potatoes.
Fresh lard Is frequently employed for
some of the emulsions that are on the
market, and I have known quite a deli
cate little cream to be made from It
In this manner:
The new lard is chosen, and it Is
washed in many filtered waters until
at last It Is as soft and feathery as
whipped cream. Boiled water, chilled,
may do for the washings If the other
is not procurable, but the success of
the cream will depend upon the faith
fulness of the beating with the wash
ing. A paddle Is used as for washing
butter a silver fork will do and-for
several days the lard is beaten up in
fresh waters and allowed to stand over
night In more. When at last it is of
the delicacy required. It Is carefully
drained with dry beating, and then
scented with some harmless extract or
toilet water rosewater is excellent
put in a little china yar and set away
in a cool place. With all cold creams
freshness is a very Important point,
so the moment an unguent, purchased
or home-made, begins to smell rank
it is no longer fit for use.
Finally, let me say that soap must
be used by all persons who use cold
cream, for its effect is tonic and the
thorough cleansing is needed for the
pores. The quality of the soap, too,
must be decided by tne individual, but
a good old castile or one of the French
hygiene soaps is generally considered
suitable to most skins.
Where there are blackheads or some
species of simple eruptions, green or
potash soap is advised, and this may
be applied directly to the skin with
massage. The rinsing after the use
of soaps must be thorough, as well as
all the drying of the race, and I must
impress upon my readers the import
ance of never allowing face cloths
and towels to get too soiled. Through
the microbes these acquire when In
a state unfit for use many a fair skin
has been greatly harmed if not ruined,
KATHERINE MORTON.
be a person in polite society without
cards.
In visiting and- receiving visits the
well-bred girl has two ways of conduct
Ing herself. At somebody else's home
she Is the entertainer; In her own home
she lets the guest take the floor. Under
her own roof she does everything for the
guest's comfort, but under another's she
does not presume to make herself even
comfortable unless the thing is sug
gested. The trick some girls have of
trying every chair in the drawing-room
until they come to one that suits their
fancy Is very bad manners. The child
story of the three bears is really a les
son on politeness. You mustn't take
liberties with other people's things, and
this warning holds good especially
where the visitor is invited up into a
bedroom of the house. For her to open
a drawer there to look for powder or
pins, for her to open a closet door, Is
rain. These places are sacred to the
home and mast be left inviolate.
With the formal call on a young lady's
at-home days, youthful visitors should
strive their utmost to handle formal!
ties In such a way that they will seem
more like kindnesses than tricks of
breeding, for after all society's funda
mental needs are from the heart. We
were human beings before we were so
clal lights, and we must be kind-hearted
girls before we are gentlewomen. It is
nice, more than nice, for the girl visitor
to help her hostess over social snags by
being as agreeable to the dull people as
to the clever ones. She is required by
politness to look pleased with the enter
tainment. She cannot be too noisy or
take any Initiative upon herself unless
she helps to receive. She mustn't go off
in a corner and. Just gabble with one
girl or boy. She must be on hand to do
anything required of her by the hostess
pour tea. sing, recite but she must
not press her services or gifts upon the
occasion.
In her own home the polite girl may
be a proper hostess whether the visitor
Is young, old or middle-aged. She must
be punctilious with her own manners,
but as blank as a dead wall with any
break the guest may make. She must
know enough about housekeeping to see
that the dinner, luncheon or tea table is
set according to the dictates of elegant
nospitallty and the first thing con
cerned Is a clean cloth, clean napkins.
To put before a guest napery that is
stained with previous use is a distinct
social offense, though it matters little
how plain the food Is If the . utmost
cleanliness and good will go with It.
The girl who Is the prettiest hostess lit
erally gives over her house to the guest.
but the well-bred guest merely takes
what Is her duty and no more.
There is one definitely moral side to
receiving and visiting, and though I had
vowed myself to formalities it must be
mentioned here.
When visiting it Is necessary to ask
for the girl's mother, when receiving the
guest's name must be announced to
one's own mother. For family dignity
stands behind all social intercourse and
were a girl as brilliant as Solomon and
as rich as Croesus, if she wishes to be
thought an ornament in society she
cannot afford to ignore this point. Re
epect. too, for the comfort and dignity of
all persons older than oneself is very re
quisite, so the moment you are a holty
tolty miss with old people it docs not
require spectacles to know that you are
badly bred. Getting up when an old
person enters the room, whatever the
sex of the- newcomer, is a courtesy ex
pected of all young girls.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
SEASONABLE RECIPES.
SWEDISH CUCUMBER SALAD
There Is no garnish more suitable than
this for a fish course, and since cu
cumbers are with us all the year round
it is not impossible for city dwellers.
Peel the cucumbers and cut them in
round slices, paper thin. Sprinkle a
little salt through tnem and set them
between dinner plates with a smooth
ing iron on top. When the water has
run out, drain in a colander and dress
with a pinch of sugar, black pepper
and oil, adding more salt if needed.
Sprinkle the top or the dish with
Advertisement.
Dry Shampooing
Improves the Hair
(Madge Lyon on "Hair and Scalp.")
"Women having an abundance of
fine, glossy hair do not employ a wet
shampoo. They rely upon a powder,
which is sifted on the scalp and
brushed through the hair, removing
dandruff and excess oil, and leaving
the scalp clean, soft and pliant, and
the hair light, fluffy and beautifully
lustrous.
"It is surprising what excellent re
sults can be had If the dry shampoo
Is used for a short time. 'Dry and
scaly scalps become clean, soft and
free from dandruff; coarse, faded and
stringy hair grows rich, fine and
glossy.
"A dry shampoo of unusual excel
lence can be made at little cost if you
mix 4 ounces of orris root with 4
ounces of therox. Just sprinkle a
tableepoonful of this mixture on the
scalp, then brush out well. Dry sham
pooing removes all possibility of oatch-
lng cold from washing the head."
Try It
-Cold
Place your household
electric fan on the floor
near a steam or hot
water radiator.
Point the fan in the
direction of the radiator .
straight at it.
Notice the difference
in the temperature of
the room in a few min
utes. The fan makes the
radiator warm more air
without the consump
tion of additional fueL ,
Try the experiment"
suggested and see if it
doesn't help you save
on coal bills. .... y,
Portland
Light and
ELECTRIC
mfneed narslev. Cucumbers so
prepared will be wilted, but they are
far more digestime ana aencaie iikb
this' than if they stm contained the
water.
Accessories for
Young Girls
TURBANS and siae-turnea nais oi
long-haired beayer, simply trim
med with velvet, make excellent
millinery for misses' coat suits of rough
wools.
With her finer street frocks, the styl
ish maid is given to wearing velvet
hats, high and puffy In the crown,
and sometimes decked with an Indian
trimming, of wings about the crown.
This decking is made like a band, the
high top showing the tops ot tne wings,
the whole look of the headpiece sug
gesting the headdress of the savage
red man.
A shirtwaist in Persian silk, touched
with plain piping and tiny matching
buttons is the favored bodice lor tne
substantial coat suit. The prevailing
color in the silk must match that of
the gown for a good effect.
A coiv-vest or "pull-on, is neces-
un for the coldest days, as the jacket
and skirt frocks are not warm enough
in themselves for the brisker weatner.
The little sleeveless things are of wad
ded Japanese silk, In colors or in black
and white.
Where a fur neckpiece is not to be
mnrti mnthnra sometimes look for boys'
mufflers of heavy knitted silk for their
vnnnir dauirhters. These are aouDiod,
about eight Inches wide, and sometimes
fringed at the bottom. A button and
loop fasten them snugly under the chin,
and the ends are worn straight or
crossed under the coat.
The smartest neck-fixing of the hour
for girls is a little bow with rounded
An H r Ann a widish center. These may
be of baby Irish, in which event they
Little
How
FOR A BEAUTIFUL FORM.
Mature Hlri not intend woman to be
ti. in np sc.ra.wnv. and where underdevel
opment exists It can be easily corrected.
The vaucaire memoa rurciy tans, nuu
while stmple, is correct in principle. By
hio treatment starved and stunted tis
sues receive proper nourishment and
assume their correct proportions. Any
woman can prepare her own treatment
by making a syrup with a cup and a
hlf of sugar and water to make a pint.
In this is stirred one ounce of gallol (be
sure to get the pure). Take two tea
spoonfuls before meals, and before long
you will notice marked results. This
rarlna Is inexDensive. and results are
certain if you follow these simple direc
tions.
ANSWERS TO QUERIES.
Dolores: My dear girl! Don't think
of doing that. All you require is a good
massage cream. This cleanses the pores
and skin of Impurities and bestows an
exquisitely refined bloom to the com
plexion. You will find a cerol massage
cream easiest to prepare and unfailing
in results, and as you can make it at
small cost, you should never be without
It. uet tnree ounces cerol at tne drug
store and dissolve in a nint jar of boil
ing water, stirring until smooth and
creamy. A nightly massage with this
and the skin .is soon cleared of its I
pimply, sallow condition. !
M. "W.: Until the hair follicles are
stimulated to healthy action, you will
always be troubled with britlte, thin,
stringy hair. A good tonic gives new
life to hair roots, and when tills la done
These
Days-
Railway,
Power Co.
BUILDING
go with an Irish stock or turnover col-;
lar; but they may also be of the shirt,
material, trimmed around with an edge,
of the trimming silk and held down at:
the middle with several tiny buttons in
two rows. With shirtwaists of striped
challle they are very smart,
It Is thought stylish to match the leath
er belt to the color of the suit and,
waist. All of the new colors are beau
tifully represented in the leather belts,,
and a number of them are trimmed 1
with some other shade. For a really
fine coat suit a wide belt in suede,;
which may be exactly matched by a
little handbag, strikes a more elegant '
note than one of glased leather. But
many coat suits have narrow bias belts
of the same, material. These are al
ways smart and convenient.
For wear with the snug street suit,
a skirt with a jersey top and kilted
flounce of gay plaid silk solves the
problem for a warm, compact and styl
ish petticoat.' The upper part is of
wool and in the dominant shade of the
plaid bottom. The petticoat colors
must also match the suit or else har
monize with it. Red and bright green,
barred with, black, will accord with
almost all colors.
Boots for young girls are unusually,
natty. Buttoned footgear is seen in.
velvet, moire , silk and satin! Cuban
heels are de rigeur for these smart
young persons, and sometimes black,
velvet boots will have white buttons.
We shall come to tassels by and by so
It promises. Of course, for her tramp
ing, school, church and so on, the girl;
with a sensible motTIer has leather
boots, and these of a fafTly sensible
make.
Gloves for the trim street suit are
heavy tailored affairs of gray castor:
kid or white dogskin. The seams of
the former are raw edged, but both!
sorts fasten with only one button. The:
castor gloves are 1.50, and the dog
skin $1. !
Some excellent school veils for girls'
are of Shetland wool woven with the.
utmost delicacy and with very pretty
borders. Whether in gray or white
these wash like rags, which Is a sani
tary quality to be desired for young;
persons.
MARY DEAN.
Home Helps on
to Be Beautiful
BY MADAME MARKE.
the hair grows in soft, rich and fluffy.
The best tonic I know is made at small
cost. Here it is: Mix a half-pint each
alcohol and water, and pour in one
ounce beta-cant hoi. A little massaged
in the scalp nightly for a time pro
duces an abundance of fine, glossy hair.
You get beta-canthol at the druggist's.
Hope: Don't use soaps on the hair
and scalp. What is needed to correct
the oily condition is a good shampoo
twice a month for a time, and excess
oil and dandruff then will not bother
you. A splendid shampoo can be ha, I
with plain eggol which you can buy at'
any drug store. This makes a search-;
lng yet soothing lather and thoroughly,
cleanses the scalp, leaving it healthy"
and pliant and giving to the hair a rich,
lustre.
Gretchen: I am deeply sorry because
of the fuzxy growth on your chin. How
ever, get an ounce of delol at the drug,
store and mix a little with water to,
make a paste, then spread thickly on;
the offending hairs and after two or'
three minutes scrape off and wash tha
surface and the hairs are gone. You
will find delol a little expensive, but It
does the work quickly and well.
O. 8.: I am glad you like my gallol;
recipe. An excellent retiring cream can .
be made by dissolving two ounces of!
amarol In a pint of hot water. The skin
should be washed thoroughly and dried;
nerore mis cream is applied. Use lti
freely each night before retiring and'
you will soon have a smooth, velvety!
complexion without the use of powder;;
ur tvauicuw, iwvi