SCANDINAVIAN WOMEN RENEW FIGHT
ON CORSETS AND ALL TIGHT LACING
Madias Kiiai-Bache, Leader of War, Call Thm Fashion's Instrument of Torture and Describes What She Con
aiders Healthy and Artistic Garb Beauty Depends on Health. She ays.
fm'' ill 11 "'t&J 1 "a
COPENHAGEN. Jan. 7. Special.)
THe threa Scandinavian countries
arc In for a freeh rhu of the wf
gainst the corset. For lone nough
there have been societies formed to fight
tight lacing among women, and Danish
women of note have given spasmodic
international Importance to the move
ment. Of late there has 4een some flagging
In the energy of the ample walsted ones,
but now Madame Nalsl-Bache. the fore
most champion of comfort and rational
metnoda. haa come back to northern
latitude from the sunny climes of Spain.
Portugal and Madeira, determined to win
Scandinavians over to the abolition of
the corset. As she la 'a highly Intellec
tual, forceful woman, an artist and an
enthusiast, aha will surely attract hosts
to her side, even If she falls to win over
Queen Maud of Norway who lacea her
elf to the limit. For Madame Nalsl
Bache not only calls for the abandon
ment of the corset; she offers designs
of her own to doubtful women, whereby
their mav adant Grecian or Jaoanese carb
to their own figures and still remain
attractive.
It la among the upper ten In society
that the defenders of the corset are
mainly found, and Madame Kalal-Bache
haa been nnablo. up to now. to induce
the co arts of Denmark. Norway or Swe
den to Join what she considers the cause
of health and beauty.
A chat with tier In her studio In Cop
enhagen, where she and her husband are
now Installed, la a pleasant ezperlenoe,
for her eyes are fired with th light of
for her eyes are fired with the light of
her favorite subject.
Corsets "Engines of Cgliness."
'!." she said, "I am about to re
new my warfare against the corset. As
you know, many Scandinavian women
have discarded It aa an abomination and
an offense against their health and their
good looks. And hundreds mor. who
have not" Joined ua In total dL m of
these engines of ugliness and harm, have
modified their reliance on them to the
wldeet and most comfortable limits.
They, one and all. testify that they have
aalned ease and freedom of movement
without losing any of their style and
gracefulness.'
"What are the guiding prlnclplea of
your movement? she was asked.
"Beauty and health and freedom
for the Individual woman to dress ac
cording to her own tastes, without the
hampering dictates of Dame Fashion,
who is too often both foolish and In
jurious. Art ought not to be the lux
ury of the few. Every woman ought
to develop her artistic faculty: utilis
ing It to ber own benefit, instead of
stultifying It by a slavish Imitation of
fashion tranters. Art should be set
free, to put Its mark upon our homes
and our dresses.
"Note the periods of history In which
the sense of beauty was most general
and most Intense. The greatest mas
terpieces were produced In such times,
because the artists had but to look
about them to become inspired. When
we women, therefore, make our dress
aa expression of art we bring our
share of material to the upbuilding of
civilization more so, probably, than
most of us Imagine. And. aa art must
have health as well as beauty, we must
seek conditions equally conducive te
both qualities.
Heal til Is Menaced.
"The absolute hindrance to health
and therefore the biggest obstacle to
perfect beauty Is the corset. No wom
an habituated to the corset, of course,
will admit any drawbacks from It.
SU11 less will she admit that she la
a tight lacer. bo it takea a long time
te persuade her the Instrument of tor
ture she equeesee herself Into Is whol
ly unnecessary that her dress should
be supported from the shoulders, not
from the waist, or the hips.
"Think of the scope that such aa
abandonment of habit gives. When
freedom la accomplished every woman
ts set at liberty to dress In accordance
with her own Individuality physical
and mental. Besides unnecessary ex
pense. Incidental to the tyranny of
fashion, there Is the constant viola
tion of the true governing prlnclplea
of women's healthful dressing." .
"And what Is your plan for aa Idea
rational garb?" was the next query.
"For underclothing, combinations or
chemisettes of wool or silk: for Win
ter wear a pair of silk breeches, a
warmly lined petticoat of silk or otbsr
suitable material, sewn onto a short
bodice so that the weight rests on the
whouldara. The bodice can be lined, if
desired, and furnished with sleeves. It
should be skillfully cut. especially for
stout women. Such a garb Is warm,
light and smart and can be worn per
fectly well under even the thinnest
Greek costumes.
Style Possible) Minus Corset.
To rive proof to her words Madame
s'aial-Bache herself haa produced. In
-a Indicated. Bomeumea she adopts
the Grecian style: occasionally there Is
a touch reminiscent of the Northern
nations, or the Japanese, or the Ara
bian women. Her tastes are liberal,
but perhapa the Oreelan style Is near
est her heart, modified according to
the requirements of these later times
and more. Northern dimes. An outfit
she recommends for everyday wear con
sists of an unjlergown of wool, made
not too long, with the material not
over-thick, so that the gown will fall
In picturesque folds from the shoulders.
The outer gown, resembling the Greek
"palla," Is of heavier material of a dif
ferent color, harmonising, however,
with that of the ander-garment. It
should be fastened on the shoulders
with handsome buckles and allowed to
............ 4
THE StJXDAY OREGOMAJT, POETLAND. JAXT7ABT 8. 1911.
fall In simple yet stylish folds. Such
a dress has the advantage of suiting
both slim women and their more cor
pulent sisters.
"For social functions." says Madame
Nalsl-Bache. "I find the Grecian dress
bewitching, and It has a great advan
tage In not being affected by fickle
fashion's moods. My advice to women
Is. Don't buy commonplace gowns, but
manage to obtain, by 'saving up' If you
must, one really first-class Grecian
gown a year. For aa these dresses do
not become old-fashioned, they are not
really costly, and In this way a careful
woman will acquire an exquisite ward
robe In a few years. Moreover, such
rational and artistic gowns as I advo
cate give opportunities for wearing
handsome shoulder buokles. which, j
when of sufficiently artlstlo merit, J
greatly enhance the beauty of thej
gown."
"And how soon do you expect to
evolve the perfect woman?" Madame
Kais'-Bacbe was asked.
Tendency Toward KUmlnatlon.
"It will take time, but It will come.
Generation after generation of women
have distorted the ru4Bie form divine
with corsets. Evolution has been forced
Into unnatural channels. The eternal
fitness of things has been deplorably
disarranged for once. Therefore It Is
the bounden duty of this rational age
to set about divesting itself of a bar
barous and harmful custom so that
time may restore woman's natural bal
ance. Robert Louis Stevenson has said some
Of the South Bea Islanders are the most
beautiful people in the world, and he
lays particular stress on their figures
and graceful carriage. Poets have sung
of the ravishing walk of the Andalu
slan women, and the gliding movements
Of the Moorish dam ers both strang
Answers to Correspondents
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
PORTLAND. Or, Jan. S.1 enjoyed
your candy lessons and have profited by
your Instructions; but. If not too much
trouble, I should like to ask you for the
following additional reclpee: (1) The kind
of nougat that Is made with honey and
almonds; (2) how to make "spun sugar,"
such as Is used In decorating Ice cream;
(3) how to make the "marrons glaces"
you buy; (4) a kind of soft white pulled
candy sometimes called baby cream. If
this Is asking too much at once, I will
be content with whatever you can give
me. Thanking you for much help re
ceived from your column.
MRS. B. C. M.
I hope the following Is something like
the nougat you mean:
Marseilles nougat 1 1-3 cups strained
honey. 1 1-3 cups confectioners sugar. 1
pound blanched and dried almonds, 1 egg
white whipped stiff, a few drops oil of
orange or orange flour water. Melt the
honey In a double boiler, stir In the sift
ed sugar, then, when white hot, add the
egg white and beat over the hot water
until a drop of the mixture Is firm
enough to keep Its shape and can be re
moved from a plate or from the back of
the hand, without sticking. Then add
the almonds and flavoring, beat well,
pour Into pans, to be about one inch deep.
This nougat lm generally poured . upon
sheets of "wafer" a, paperlike rice prep
aration used by confectioners. The top 19
also covered with "wafer" and pressed
smooth with a board. When cool cut
the nougat which is usually rather soft,
into suitable pieces, and. If the wafer
Is not used, wrap each piece In paraffin
paper and keep In a tin box.
Spun- sugar calls for a certain knack
In making and Is, to my mind, hardly
worth the trouble involved. However,
here are the directions, If you care, to
try. It makes a pretty decoration for
cakes. Ice creams and other desserts,
but must be used while .quite fresh:
Spun sugar Cook together ZVt cups
sugar and H cup glucose with a little
water to dissolve the sugar. Cook to 285
degrees F., if you use the sugar ther
mometer, or to "the crack" If you go
by guessing tests. In the meantime. If
you have no wire "sugar spinner" you
can tie together a bunch of forks. Some
kinds, of wire egg-whips will serve the
purpose of a "spinner." Confectioners
sometimes spin sugar across a barrel.
They also spin elaborate shapes over
oiled molds. I know a girl who spins
It over a clean dish pan. The cook book
way is to place two pieces of clean
broom handle at the table edge, so. that
they project and are supported by
weighty books laid on the ends. Clean
paper should be laid on the floor. Another
Easter eggs, of Ice cream In nests of
X-shaped stands, on the table and clean
paper laid beneath. What ever plan you
adopt, have everything ready when the
sugar reaches the crack stage. Set the
kettle In cold water for a moment, then f
remove It. Dip your "spinner," real or
improvised. Into the sugar and quickly
trail threads from one rod or dlshpan
side to the other, moving the spinner
Quickly to and fro. Reheat the sugar
If It becomes too cold to work. When
you have spun enough, shape Into
"nests" for ice cream or use In any other
way your fancy dictates. Color paste
can be added to the sugars as desired,
make "marrons glaces" equal to "those
pale green or yellow spun - sugar are
rather effective.
(S) I am afraid you Hill not be able
make "marrons glavea" equal to "those
you buy." though there is co harm In
trying. For one , thing, the very fine
French chestnuts, of peculiar sweetness,
used In these confections, are practically
unobtainable here. The following, how
ever, makes a pleasing confection
Select the largest chestnuts you can
find, boll them with a little salt and
sugar In the water until they are nearly
tender. Drop Into cold water, remove
the skin, without breaking the nut, and
let the nuts stand about half an hour
In the cold water: then drain and dry
them. Have ready a syrup made with
equal parts sugar and water, boiled ten
minutes. Add a few drops vanilla and
pour over the chestnuts. Let stand over
night. Next morning drain off the I
eyrup; boil five minutes and pour again
over the nuts. Repeat this daily for .
four days, or until the nuts appear i
semi-transparent. A few drops of va- 1
nllla may be added from time to time.
If liked. Finally, drain the nuts from
the now very heavy syrup, place on
heavy waxed paper on a tin or platter, j
and let dry in the warming oven.
Thick slices or fancy shapes of sweet
potato, similarly treated, make a good
confection, especially if brown sugar Is .
used. The finished product may be
rolled In sugar or not as preferred. .
Maroons are usually served in little 1
paper cases. These may be bought, but '
can also be made at home by the pro- i
verblal "neat-handed, clever girl." I
4 Baby cream. I hope this la the kind I
you mean. Boll 4 cups sugar-with 1 cup '
water to the "small crack." Pour It out i
upon an oiled alab or platter. When cool !
enough scatter over It one teaspoon va
nilla; double the edges to the center,
knead well, then pull until very light:
twist and cut into suitable pieces. Sift
lishtly with powdered sugar and leave
exposed to the air until it changes from
a "chewing to a creamy consistency.
Portland, Or., Jan. . Kindly give re
cipes for grapefruit punch or sherbet.
Would also like directions for French
bread. Thanking you in advance, Mrs.
E- P. C.
Grapefruit sherbet No. 1 Boll 1 quart
water with 3 cups sugar 20 minutes. Let
cool, then add 1 pint strained grapefruit
Juice: 1 teaspoon soaked and dissolved
gelatine, and the Juice of 1 medium-
sised lemon. Freeze and serve in tall
glasses. A little sherry or maraschino
may be added, lr iiaea. tacn glass may
be decorated with a maraschino cherry,
either whole or chopped. Two grape
fruit of -good size should provide a pint
of Juice.
Grapefruit sherbet No. z Make an
"Italian meringue" by boiling to a thread
H cup granulated sugar and 1-3 cup wa
ter, and pouring it, while hot, upon one
stiff-beaten eggwhlte. Beat aa for a
boiled frosting. When cool add to the
mixture given above, previously frozen
to a mush. The gelatine may be omitted.
Finish freezing and serve in tall glasses
or in small grapefruit shells with paper
cases for linings to avoid the bitter fla
vor of the peel. Garnish with mara
schino cherries, or glace grapes or can
dled mint leaves, according to taste. The
suggestion as to flavoring with sherry
or maraschino applies also to this mix
ture. French bread! Soften 1 cake very fresh
comDressed yeast In cup lukecvarm wa
ter. Stir In K cup flour to make a dough i
that can ba kneaded. Knead until smooth. 1
ers to corsets and high heels. And look
at the Indian women who now and
again come to Europe. I have seen In
dian Princesses move among me
mightiest of the earth with a natural
grace and dignity of bearing which, the
deadly corset would have .made Impos
sible. "So the progress of the war does not
discourage you?" she was asked finally.
"Not at all," said Madame Nalsl
Bache. as she said farewell. "The top
most circle of society may be slow
to discard the corsets beloved of their
ancestors, but' we have a long roll of
eminent women on our side as actual
corset haters. Doctors, painters, sculp
tors, and many poets and writera are
also with ub. This Winter we will carry
.the warfare further by running com
petitive exhibitions, pitting the gowns
for corseted women against those for
the corsetless. We are confident of
the ultimate result of the struggle.
Health, art and beauty are on our side.
On the other are folly, torture, sick
ness, ungalnllness. So, even If we move
slowly, we progress steadily. Depend
upon It. the corset Is doomed among
the women of the future.' '
and elastic Cut a cross In the top and
drop the ball of dough Into 1 pint luke
warm water, previously boiled. In about
15 minutes, if kept in a warm place, the
ball of dough will float as a light sponge.
Stir In 1 teaspoon salt and five to six
cups flour to mak ea dough stiff enough
to knead. Knead 15 to 20 minutes, or
until the dough is very smooth, elastic
and without trace of stickiness. Cover
and let rise at 70 degrees Fahrenheit,
until double In bulk. Divide the dough
Into 'two equal pieces, roll and stretch
until long and narrow to fit the long
French pans. Press a stick lengthwise
through the Center, rolling it back and
forth a little to make the conventional
furrow, then cover. Let stand until
double in bulk. Just before baking cut
a few slantwise Cuts on the surface. Bake
40 minutes. When nearly baked glaze
by brushing with eggwhlte. beaten with
1 teaspoon cold water. Frenoh bread
contains no sugar or shortening and
should be crusty, crisp, coarse-grained
and shiny. Some people find it more
digestible than ordinary household
bread, but It does not stay moist and
fresh as long as the latter.
Way to Avoid
Heavy Diet
One Wonii'a Experiments to Satisfy
Mer Hnngry Huabaad.
OSWEGO, Jan. 7. (Editor Household
Department.) Thinking to help some
puzzled mother or wife, I offer some
suggestions. Two months ago my
husband was ordered by his physician
not to eat much meat, and to avoid all
heavy foods. Now he has always been
a heavy eater, and still had his appe
tite with him. I was much perplexed,
for a time, as to how to fix things that
would satisfy his cravings, and still
not do him Injury. Some of the regu
lar vegetarian dishes are all right, of
course, but he was prejudiced against
most of these, and pronounced them
flat and unpalatable. I think this is
so with a great many people, unless
they are trained on a vegetarian diet.
Well, I kept on experimenting and
worked out several different things
which were fine. I tried to vary the
meals ao that I did not repeat any of
the dishes often enough to cause him
to tire of them, and have been very
of the things he likes beat, and
eats most frequently, is fried bread,
which I , try to make very appetizing.
and to arrange temptingly on a big
platter. The way I make it Is to beat
up one or two eggs, according to how
much bread I wish to fry, and mix
with the egg about as much milk as I
use of the beaten egg. Then I salt the
mixture a little, aweeten It quite a bit,
then wet the slices of bread In It, by
turning them over and wetting both
sides. I have ready a skillet In which
I have melted a generous lump of but
ter, and in this I fry the bread. Just
letting It brown nicely on both sides.
Sometimes I put Jelly on the fried
bread, a spoonful to each slice, or
serve the Jelly separately. Other times
I poach eggs and set them up on top
of each slice.
Fried mush is another favorite. I
use cracked, wheat or any other break
fast porridge I have at hand, and make
It In the morning, pouring It into Jelly
glasses or other molding receptacles,
to cooL (Wet the glasses in cold water
first, so the mush will not take hold
of the sides.) When ready to fry the
mush that evening, I run a small knife
around the Inside of the glass, loosen
ing the mush, and it can then be
shaken out and stood upon a plate,
perfectly molded. I turn It on the
side, slice It off In pieces about an
eighth of an inch thick and fry it in
hot butter. Poached eggs go nicely
on this, too. or the slices of mush can
be dipped in the sweetened egg-and-mllk
mixture before frying, and varied
appetizingly. Plain and Jelly omelettes
are another standby, and the heavier
soups, served with dice of toasted
bread, make almost a square meal In
thmKAlves served with boiled Ticm and
vegetables they are quite satisfying.'
Fried or baked halibut, and fried
smelts, are not forbidden, as they are
light and easily digested. I use these
and also a hash which I make of only
a little boiled and minced beef, using
bread crumbs, onion and an egg to fill
It out. and using the soup that came
from the meat to mix the hash with.
I butter a porcelain pan and bake the
hash In this; when It is done I poach
two or three eggs and set In a row
along the top of the bash, and serve
it right In the porcelain pan. If there
Is a soup stock left over, I thicken It
and make a gravy. Gravies can be
made very nutritious, and if made rich
and tasty, will help to take the place
of meat to a great extent, poured over
squares of bread or eaten with veg
etables. These are Just some sugges
tions for some other reader of The
Oregonian that may find In them a
chance to vary a restricted diet. ,
MRS. J. K. L.
Why So Many
-WomenWorry
Lose Sense of Talnes la Looking
After Details of Their Work.
Women, to their shame be It said,
worry over little things. This Is one
reason why there are more cases of in
sanity among women than among men.
Somehow, women lose their sense of
values. Perhaps puttering around a
stove and searching In tiny corners for
dust blunts their remembrance of the
bigness of the universe. Some evening,
after a hard day, when the clothes
wouldn't sprinkle right, and the cake
fell, and you tore the ruffle on your
newest gown, and you noticed a half
dozen gray hairs In your head and a fly
that you couldn't catch, no matter how
hard you might try, buzzed about your
ears till you were frantic -some even
ing, after some hard day. when all these
monumental horrors crowd thick and
fast upon you, go out In the .street and
look. up. .You will see In the slue those
THE Nemo 'Innovation Sale" has instantly developed
into the most widespread and successful corset-event
this country has ever known, and for this good reason
Nemo Self-Reducing Corsets Nos. 319 and 321
With Patented Semi-elastic Lastikops Reducing Bands
Are the Greatest Corset-Values Ever Offered
In these new models entirely new effects are produced
by the use of the patented Nemo Lastikops Webbing: the
only elastic fabric ever made that doesn't wear out
guaranteed to outlast the corset.
Two broad
No. 319
around the hips
corset fit like a
SHORT
STOUT
i stand, and turn
that is doesn't
dress: but thev are
give you plenty
No. 321
ease wnen you aituown i
i new effect.
FOR TALL
STOUT
Self -Reducing jfront the only per
fect ABDOMINAL
k white coutil, sizes
The Nemo "Innovation Sale" is now in progress in
the principal stores of every town and city from Maine
to California. The demand is tremendous. We're
filling re-orders for hundreds of dozens daily. Go to
your dealer and GET yours while you can find your(size.
KOPS BROS., 154 Sutter St, 5an Fraacuco
shiny things called Stars. Let your
mind saunter among them for a bit.
down the spangled Misty Way. Into the
brilliant Dipper, across to glittering
Orion. Fonder for a moment on the gid
dy vastness of that speck of the uni
verse which we see on the rolling, rush
ing universes beyond our vision, on the
orderliness of that march of suns and
moons andworlds so swift and so se
rene, on the unthinkable distances
that separate us from the stars and the
Little Home Helps On
How to Be Beautiful
J
BT
FOR A ROSE-TOXED COMFXEXIOJr.
Beautiful complexions are ruined
through excessive use of powder, whose
minute particles clog pores, causing
blackheads and pimply eruptions, while
the delicate tissues are aggravated and
a rough, blotchy, unhealthy condition
follows. A reliable massage cream is
essential to free the pores and ekin's
surface from Impurities and to promote
a healthy bloom the hall mark of re
fined beauty. You can prepare a trust
worthy massage cream at small cost, by
dissolving three ounces of cerol In a
pint of hot water, stirring until smooth
and creamy. This gently massaged into
the skin makes It soft and satiny, and
gives cheeks a rosy glow.
AXSWERS TO QUERIES.
Lulu: It is entirely wrong for you to
loee your hair so rapidly, and you should
attend to It without delay. Mix a half
pint each of alcohol and water, and Into
this put one ounce beta-canthol. This
simple recipe makes an inexpensive and
excellent tonic, and massaging the hair
roots frequently with it 6tops falling
hair, and its continued use will promote
a thick growth of long, glossy hair.
Any druggist can supply beta-canthol.
Pixie: It is a rare pleasure to read a
letter like yours, and I am glad my gal
lol recipe has given you a "sylph-like"
form, as you say. You can make an ex
cellent retiring cream at small cost, if
you will get from your druggist two
ounces of amarol and dissolve in a pint
of hot water. After washing the skin
thoroughly and durina well, anabr this
Never Before
have''
Steal Women
FOUND SUCH
Perfect Style;
WTTH
Solid Comfort
AT A
Popular Price
bands of Webbing.
(see cut) make the
glove when you
tn corset-edge tn, eo
show through a thin
elastic enough to '
of room and perfect i
ihe Iamous memo
SUPPORT. fine ,
19 to 36 ,
stars from each other, on the unutter
able majesty of the power which holds
all this in Its grasp.
Then go back to the house and worry
I about your fallen cake If you dare.
Only, in your zeai to avoia worrying,
don't begin to worry for fear you'll
begin to worry. Boston Herald.
The Cuban heel Is higher than ever.
" Everything Is to be furred on this
season.
MADAME MASEB
retiring cream and you will find to
short time you have a complexion no
powder or rouge can imitate.
Pinx D.: If you are interested and
really want a good recipe for shampoo
ing, get some eggol at the drug store
and try it. Using thin twice a month
for a while soon corrects the Itchy,
scaly condition of the scalp, making it
vigorous and pliant and stops falling
hair. An eggol shampoo Is delightful
to use. and Is especially good tor
ollinees. With this use the beta-canthol
tonic mentioned elsewhere in these col
umns. Nancy: I know it is annoying, to have
fuzz on your cheek, and if you will get
an ounce of delol at the drug store and
mix some with water to make a thiok
paste and apply to the offending hair?,
then after two or three minutes rub eft
and wash the skin, you will find the
hairs are gone. While delol Is a trifle
expensive, it is seldom necessary to use
the second application to permanently
remove hairs.
Fay: Underdevelopment is due to sj
starved condition of the delicate tissues,
and until corrected, you cannot round
out the figure. The only successful
method known, is the Vaucaire treat
ment. This feeds the underlying tie
sues, and as a natural result, the form
becomes plump and symmetricaL Yoi
can easily prepare your own treatment
If you dissolve one and a half cup
sugar In water to make a pint and stit
in an ounce of true gallol. which any!
druggist can supply. Take two tea
spoonfuls before meals for a while and
vnix mm ba truli delighted at resultaO v