THE SUNDAY OBEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 11, 1910.
PORTLAND WOMAN'S EXPERIENCE
WITH HOUSE HUNTING IN PARIS
.. . .
Greatest Disappointment Lay la the Tact That There Are No Bathrooms The New Latin Quarter.
BY EJA 8SCK1.E MARSHALL.
miiF; mere suggestion of the adrls-
I ability of seeking a new domicile
In om'i own homo city fill tho
mind of too average housewife with
dummy, consequently tho emotions en
gendered by tho same necessity In a
foreign city, where not only tho lan
guage but the customs, provisions and
terms are ntterly unknown to the pros
pective tenant, ran be better Imagined
than described. A leaf or two from a
recent experience In Parts may prove
of Interest whether or not tho reader Is
contemplating a residence abroad.
To the student there are two modes
of life possible housekeeping In an
apartment and boarding in a pension.
Time was when students were admitted
a boarders Into Intellectual French
families, where the advantages of home
life and an opportunity to practice tho
language were afforded, but the privi
lege waa so often abused that today It
Is almost Impossible to obtain entree
Into the household of a desirable fam
ily, and the conventional atmosphere of
a French pension Is the nearest ap
proach to what was a delightful way of
living for one who could appreciate It.
A "pension" Is nothing more nor less
than a boarding-house, but the name
savors more of dignity and one cannot
but wish that It might be adopted In
America as It has been, to a large si
lent. In London;, for. after all. there la
certain style and tone which ema
nates from a name, despite the rose
and Its fragrance.
Boarding-house life Is about the same
tho world over. There may be a alight
difference In the variety and manner of
preparing and serving the food, but
there Is the same absence of home feel
ing, the same lack of privacy, the same
necessity for tips, the same difficulty
In being able to concentrate one's mind
on study whether It be an ordinary
American boarding-house or private ho
tel or a European pension: consequent
ly, aa mv daughter was to be a student,
an apartment seemed most desirable,
particularly as the cost for the two of
us would be about the same.
At first my snlnd was filled with vis-
. . . wmM In tlA filled
inni 01 uniuim.u . - -
with such things as I long had dreamea
of possessing, and which can be picked
up at such ridiculously low prices. If
one knows Just where to look, and
which I pictured myself taking back to
Portland, for. as a non-resident, one Is
permitted to take In all household goods
used abroad for a period of a year or
more. Hut alas for the realisation of
such dellshtful dreams. The awakening
came with the remembrance that as a
married woman whose husband was
unable, because of business necessities,
to accompany her abroad. I had no resi
dence, no Identity, apart from that of
my better half. Therefore the futility
of furnishing an apartment was at once
apparent In' spite of the allurement of
l.w rentals, and the search for a fur
nished habitation began.
The mind of the student-to-be nat
urally turns to the famous Latin quar
ter, particularly as Its reputation a a
cheap place In which to live has be
come widespread. Paris la a wonderful
city, and It Is a city of much Indi
viduality, but the leaven of American
Ism Is slowly permeating It and In
sidiously working and changing old
conditions. More than ona generation
will pass before the change la fully ap
parent and. In the meantime, the pres
ent generation of young people la PT"
Ing the price and enduring the unrest
attendant on the evoluflon.
.
The Latin quarter la today old and
decrepit, but tho traditions, probably
more than the schools, still make It
the haunt of artists and a certain class
of stndents. And oh. the charm of the
tjuartler. Who can describe It. who can
resist It once having yielded to Its
pell? The narrow, winding
fascinate with their pulsing tide of hu
man flotsam and Jetsam, local color for
the artist and writer, and character
sutdy for tho dramatist; the tall, bare
faced houses, leaning backward as If
afraid to touch noses with their neigh
bors across the street, charm because
of their very peculiarities, and the fact
that perhaps the high attic windows,
ranked with potted plants, light the on!
Place sat scrusgllng student can call
Jiome- the queer little shops with their
chstterlng. flattering venders. h"'nl
torlc. student-haunted cafes all call. call,
call for these are the placea around
which traditions cluster and teem and
awaken romance In the heart of old and
'TTu hard' to resist the call, for tradi
tion, mean atmosphere to the student and
atmosphere Is vital to success.
But health Is vital, too. and robust
health Is not possible without purs air
and good aanltatlon. Perhapa It was the
better to secure these necessities that
a new Latin Quarter has been estab
lished on higher ground, and here is
where the commercial element Bss
cropped in. for the profit to be derived
from the fame of the name was so ap
parent thst prices have kept pace with
the elevation and more healthful envlr
rnment even though the new quarter la
yet too modern to have acquired an at
mosphere. . .
In view of this combination of condi
tions life in tho quarter seemed divested
cf Its romantic attractions, and the Idea
rf an estahllshment within Its claaslc
precincts waa reluctantly abandoned.
s e
Paris Is cold and very damp In Wln
trr. hence an ahode near the studio of
the teacher seemed advisable, and aa
h had elected to house himself on one
cf tho wide, tree-lined avenue radiating
fmm the Place del'Etolle. our search
t.-in near his apartment and continued
In enlarging circles until It culminated
In the place to be presently described.
IMrta apartment-houses differ from
tve f any other city In many respects
Trie exteriors do not present a very ma
tTtAl "difference In architectural design.
s structures from five to eight stories
In height are necessarily similar In gen-
r-. mml rmttce&hle tlistln-
rrii uiw i. ' - - - . -
c.l.hlng features of the Parisian bulld
lnr are the artistic Iron railings and
bai.-omea In front of every window and the
arwence of fire escapes. Huge doors
open from the street onto a wide pas
sjseway which usually leads to a court,
lsrjre t.r smsll. according to the siae of
ttw hue. From these stslrways rise
the number varying with the number
and position of the apartmenta. In many
of the modern houses, built on shallow
1ms. the court Is dispensed with and a
sln!e ssalrway ascend from the hall
w. In a small room opening onto the pass
ate the concierge has his den and here
this Individual, who la a truly Parisian
product, presides over the weal or woe
of those within his realm. Ills office Is
skin to that of our Janitor, but If an
American apartment dweller looks upon
his Janitor In the light of a t'sar he
ahotild become a tenant In a Paris apartment-house
In order to realise what ab
solute monarchy really la. for no despot
Is more truly absolute than a Paris con
cierge. Just what be is supposed to do Is
more then I hare, as yet. been able to
ascertain, but there Is nothing he will
not do if tlie tip Is sufficiently alluring.
At first we undertook the search In
dependently, relying on a few French
stock phrases to help out the sign lan
guage, but either the phrases did not
tit or tha concierge did not understand
American French, for we found the task
more than our mental strength could ac
complish and were forced to engage the
services of an English-speaking attache
of a rental agency. He was "onto his
"
I PICTURE B. !
I...
Job." as an American lad would put It.
and Insisted on a motor cab, and perhaps
It waa well that he did. for the sum
On the taximeter at the close of a day's
search assisted greatly In making a
decision.
Sometimes, but rarely, the concierge
waa absent from his post and the con
cierges to be. In the form of small, serious-faced
urchins. In long black aprons,
scurried slowly after him. "Scurried
slowly" seems rather an anomalous term,
but It fully describes the haste of a
Paris lad when asked to hurry on an
errand.
As the older apartment-houses have
no elevators and 'he stairs are very steep
the physical exertion attendant on apart
ment hunting may be Imagined. The
higher one ascends the cheaper the rent,
but the better the-llght and air. so that
there Is compensation In cltmblng five
or six flights of stairs, or would be If
the average flat appealed to an Ameri
can. As to the mental fatigue of trying
to understand and be understood, words
are insufficient to do the subject Jus
tice. As the apartmenta In the first few di
verging circles were very similar In all
respects, a general description will suf
fice, although It will quite fall to make
apparent the appearance of well-pre-aerved
age. and. I regret to say. the
mustlness of some of them. Many of
them were scrupulously clean and at
tractive, bnt ona has to psy for such
things In Paris. Others were cheaper
because there were no such attributes
to charge for.
We were seeking thst elusive and d-
Christmas Away From Home
jw MOTHER haa Just written mo a
J very Interesting letter. Her two
children are to be away from
boms at Christmas, and she wants some
advice on how to keep them from be
ing lonely something to write to them
that will be "sensible and self-helpful."
The young folks are studying
and working In far-off -cities, and thla
will be the first Chrlstmaa they have
pent away from home.
Christmas away from home! Dear
me. the theme la big enough for chap
ters where young people are concerned,
but my first advice In this case Is to
the mother of the absent nestlings. Let
her see to It that letters to the far-off
ones are as numerous as possibla
through the holiday time. Let them
all be cheerful, too. without too much
talk of missing the dear ones and with
a good deal of talk of the Importance
of their own careers. Let them be
prldeful mother letters, the sort that
help young workers to be up and do
ing and that leave no room for slump
ing moods and tenses. But let them
be very careful to Indicate that there
will bs Christmas presents at the right
moment when you are away from
home presents from the family are as
necessary as bread and let the mother
herself see that these tokens get off
in time, with the pretty tissue paper
wrappings, and binding ribbons, and
sprigs of holly and mistletoe that are
usual. For the one who la making no
money the girl In school there should
k. too. a little previous gift of money
for her own present-making, for Christ
mas Ls a time to give as well as to re
ceive.
The Christmas training of the young
people should also begin long before the
holiday arrives, for the avoidance of
miserable homesick moments almoat all
womankind la blessed with one gift
that cf the needle. The school girl must
make hor own little presents If there Is
time for this, and If ahe -sews, crochets,
knits or embroiders. In company with
other girls also making home presents,
think what agreeable talk can go on
about the ways of this or that darling
who Is kin to you. Then there Is the
precious secret moment when you are
locked In your own room making some
thing for the school comrade or teacher;
when you are writing the grand Christ
mas letter for somebody near or afar,
and pecking Into books every now and
then to find the most beautiful thing to
Bay
When the blessed day comes, the
schoolgirl must get up with the uni
versal Christmas In her heart. She
muat feel the g'ad tidings, the peace on
earth good will toward men. and ahow
It to all she meets during the d.ty. A
little visit to the parish church will help
this along carols there are always sweet,
and even the last eloquent preacher can
get up a Christmas sermon that will
help one to live. Then, it ls quite neces
sary for civilized beings to feel some of
the meaning of Christmas, for without
thla the giving and taking of gifts are .
lustve abode, a small flat. It seems that
three bedrooms, exclusive of the tiny,
w&lled-ln sace under the roof, called
through courtesy the "maid's room,"
constitute the average small flat, and
thst was much" too largo for our modest
needs.
'
A Paris architect haa the art of utilis
ing space down to a fine point; the only
thing on which he allows his Imsglnatlon
full play Is the. number and sinuosity
of stairways. From the stair landing
one passes into a narrow hall onto which
the various rooms of the apartment
open. '
"See. Madnme, the beautiful salon,
what you call "drawing room'." end we
aro ushered Into a small apartment with
rather ornate furniture, soma Impossible
vases containing artificial plants or
flowers, and a statue or two of bronzed
plaster; the floor. If the building is of
ancient origin, la of Inlaid wood, which
delights us at once, but If modern, there
are ruga or a complete carpet. The din
ing room, as a rule, charms the house
wife with Its richly carved buffet. Its
handsome heavy table and really good
chairs. In the lower part of the side
board! or buffet the china and glass ra
kept: there are dozens of plates for
luncheons and dinners are always served
In courses, and "dish washing" seems
to nave no terrors for the French maid.
There Is also an "afternoon tea" set of
fine ware In deference to the English
and American habit, which here becomes
almost a necessity because of the late
ness of the dinner hour.
"And the cuisine, Madame." Wo gaxe
around the wee, often dark. room, hardly
more than a closet, which it is hard to
believe Is the only kitchen the place
a mockery. Bethlehem must have Its
tribute, some of the heart's gold and
myrrh and frankincense.
After ths morning service any Jollity
la In order, and a masked dance at night,
with a few other girls who are bound
to remain also at the school, will help
to round off the day delightfully. If a
book can be had telling of Christmas
customs In ancient times, get this and
help out the evening fun with some of
the old-time games. They tell you how
to do all sorts of Interesting and quaint
things to feed the birds for sake of the
love born Into the world, how to find out
who you are to marry by throwing an
old shoe over your shoulder, and so on.
Anything that will keep the mind from
self must be encouraged, ana n tnis is
done, when the schoolgirl goes to bed
that night she will be able to say truth
fully. "I have had a beautiful Christ
mas." The young man making his living for
the first time In a great city has even
more opportunity for a successful Christ
mas than the girl at school or college.
He has the first :uoney he has earned to
spend for the little home gifts, and all
the -wonders of a great city to select
from. It is simply glorious to spend your
own money for other people, and think
what a variety of wonders can be bought
now for a single 15 bill, and how good
It ls to exercise your own taste! You
go from store to store looking for Just
the right chiffon veil for mother, from
store to store seeking the correct hand
kerchlefs or cigars from father. For the
little folks, the younger sister or broth
er, the cook, the boy friends or the girl
one left behind, there are other things
to consider. When at laat you have them
all you feel richer than Croesus, ana
even If there la nobody to talk to on
Christmas eve there ls the wonderful
spectacle of the streets, the poor getting
their Chrlstmss trappings at the last
moment, the rich going by In splendid
clothes to theater or opera, windows gay
with toys, the bustle and excitement of
the night before Chrlstmss. a taate of
the beautiful mystery of Santa Claus.
If I may be allowed to be personal,
let me tell you that I never miss the
sight of Clsrlstmaa eve streets, and
somehow I have a little poetic leaning
I always fancy as I go along that I
am In Bethlehem. Every star In the
sky seems the one In the East, and a
group of sweatshop workers, old or
young. going by with the shirt waists
and skirts they have made with such
pain and tears seem to me like the
Wise Men who Journeyed from afar to
worship In the city of David. Com
fortable people, old or young, pass me
like theshepherds of old and they seem
to listen with me to the songs of the
saints snd seraphim. Ths actual fact
that I have notody to spend Christmas
with vanishes from sight. I only feel
that I am chrtstmaslng with the whole
world.
Here la the best counsel I can give
the boy working In the big city,
though I would like to advise him. too,
to go to the big church where there
la sweet music on Christmas day, and
affords. The largest of the many that
we saw was not more than 7x10 feet,
If as large, and like the others contained
a small working table and a coal range,
upon the top of which rested the two
burner gas shelf. "But the sink; Is
there none?"
"Oh, yea. It la there, so convenient to
the stove."
Picture It If you can. a shallow de
pression In a thin, oval-shaped block of
cement, bordered by ornamental tiling,
mlnua a drain board or even a place on
which to set dlshas or utensils. Visions,
of china rattling from the tiles of the
sink to the tiles of the floor filled my
mind and I realized the necessity of the
clause In every lease which provides for
the payment of a certain sum, when one
vacates the premises, to cover breakage
and repairs;
"And the bath-room, may we see ltr'
"Ah, Madame, a bath-room s a luxury
for which one must pay high In Paris."
"But there Is one?"
"Not exactly a bathroom, as you
Americans express it, but if you wish
there Is a portable tub which we can
have ready In a few days. It has been
stored In the cellar for a year."
Or, "There Is the portable tub. mad
am; you can use It in the kitchen,
since It has a tiled floor."
And those tubs! Shade of Demos
thenes, what queer things they are.
Some of them huge affairs, that would
require the strength of a Samson to
move, others immense pans, so shal
low that if one stepped Into them the
overflow resulting would leave no
water for ablutions. '
"But we must have a bathroom." The
reiteration was becoming fainter with
repetition, for even the courteous English-speaking
real estate man shrugged
his shoulders, as he said, "If you go
far out- into the new apartment dis
trict, yes. but in town it is hard to
find at your price, but there are many
bathhouses, where the cost is only
franc and a half." Thirty cents and a
tin of 10 cents is not much, of course,
but"1 to the average American, whose
daily bath is as much a part of his
day's routine as his meals. It would aaa
considerable to the amount of his rent,
see-
There remained, then, nothing but a
survey of the new apartment-houses
.built, we were assured, on the Ameri
can plan, and visions of rentals on a
like Dlan flashed athwart our minas,
visions, alas! which proved to be reali
ties.
The houses, however, are charming
and possess all American conveniences,
exceot a kitchen with a real sink. The
rooms are tiny but artistic, even to the-
dalnty furnishings, and the bathroom
accessories are on a par with the best
at home.
The lease every one must take a
lease for a certain number of months or
nav an exorbitant rental Includes
steam heat, water, hot water and facili
ties for electric lighting and gas lor
cooking. Yet the bathroom and kitchen
contain only cold water faucets.
"Where is the hot water?" we asked,
and In answer were referred to the
instantaneous heater installed above
the bathtub. So the means to produce
It were furnished but as the gas is at
our expense we pay for the so-called
luxury.
Nor are we so very far out, either,
since a brisk walk of ten minutes
brings us to the studio; within a square
are three tram lines and an under
ground station, by which we can reach
any part of Paris, and In 30 minutes we
can be at the opera-house. We are
high above the river, not far from the
Trocadero, and but a pleasant saunter
from the beautiful Bola du Boulogne.
True, our outlook In front Is limited
to the surrounding apartment-houses.
Inhabited largely by Americans, among
them many students, but from our rear
window we can look down Into a
charming garden, onto which a glass
roofed and walled living-room opens,
and here a dear old French couple pass
their days in happy content, absorbed
in their flowers, their books, their pets
and themselves.
We have an elevator, or lift, as even
the Americans call them here. Would
that those who grumble at the crushes
In some of the elevators at home could
ascend In it. Its capacity, by standing
erect and very close, is three persons,
but then It la of beautifully finished
wood and ornamental Iron grill work
and Is automatic. One only uses it
for the ascent, as Parisians, like some
other Europeans, consider the lift, like
the bathroom, a luxury to be used
sparingly.
For all this we pay 300 franrs, about
$60, a month, and are assured by old
Parisians that we are very fortunate
to have secured an apartment with a
bathroom and a lift so very cheap.
to advise him to try and feel every
moment that It is far more blessed at
Christmas time to give than to re
ceive. Wherefore, think how delicious
it would be to help out a poor mother
trying to cheapen a little Christmas
tree with a gift of the whole sum re
quired! How good It would be to
pick up some poor shivering sandwich
man and give him a square meal, with
a cigar afterward, and a litUe cheery
talk that will help him to go on!
All, me, ah, me, why specialize aa to
the things young people should do
when they are away from home at
Christmas time, for the subject is one
that concerns the old and middle-aged
as well; all those who are divided from
family ties by circumstances and those
who have no ties. The human heart
cravea some of the Joy of this moment,
and If there are no near ties to supply
It. the next best thing ls to fill the
breast so full of Christmas feeling that
there ls no room for loneliness. In fact,
I consider this quite the best thing to
do at home and abroad to live the
true Christmas life Itself, without
much thought of one's own needs and
with a great deal of thought of Che
needs of others.
So remember at Chlrstmastime that
loneliness exists only in the heart, and
strive to banish It by living with the
raiir beautiful things of this most
blessed period: with charity and hope,
and faith and love. Trim the heart with
holly and mistletoe, fill it with sweet
carols, and wherever you are. however
solitary you are. the Joy of Christmas
will be with you.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Hints for Home
Made Gifts
WHEN" one starts In to make Christ
mas presents with her own hand
assumption ls that some sewing gift
goes with the Idea. But nine times out
of ten there U the bothersome ques
tion. "What shall I maker' The list
that follotwa here gives a few things
anybody would welcome, and a round
of the shops and the Woman's Ex
changes will supply excellent ldeaa for
shapes, colors and materials.
Sewing bags of brown linen with
stenciled decoration these can be
bought stamped for tha work.
Scissors cases In brown or red mo
rocco, with satin ribbon bindings
Spool holders in the same morocco
for threads or silks.
Glove-mending boxes covered with a
bright cretonne, with a department for
'the utensils and one for the gloves.
Sewing aprons. In many fancy shapes
of dotted Swiss ruffled with plain.
Traveling aprons of white oilcloth,
rery small, rounded at the bottom,
tape-edged, and with pockets for the
comb, toothbrush and other small toi
let articles. ' Excellent for the girl
friend who goes traveling.
Soiled clothes bsgs of white oilcloth
this turned Inside with an outer
casing of a gray cretonne. As the oil
cloth part can be washed often these
1 rassS)
Wc want you to know the delight ot
being a regular user ot these most
exquisite toilet preparations.
1 ED. PINAUD'S
LILAC VEGETAL
H A wonderful toilet water
for men. and women. Has
the delicate fragrance of
4 the living blossom. Test
S the sample and then buy
f a regular size bottle from
g your dealer. 75c (6 oz.)
are especially suitable holders for un
tidy raiment.
Wash Iron-holders of cream drilling
edged with white or red tape these
buttoning over a wadded filling re
moved for laundering.
x Sofa-pillow eases of rudely stenciled
denim splendid Winter colors, ready
to make up and as low as 50 cents.
White felt padding for tea-table
cloths, cut In the required size and
neatly bordered with white tape.
Bureau and pincushion covers of
bright cretonne, edged with a coarse
white curtain lace.
Kitchen bags of brown crash, with
bright tapes, for the old bits of da
mask used for polishing glass.
Fancy baskets of sweet grass, with
cretonne linings, for holding keys, the
grocer and butcher book. etc.
Round bags of loosely meshed raffia,
covering a silk pouch-bag, for parlor
fancy work.
Bed socks of eiderdown flannel witn
satin ribbon bindings and drawstrings.
Mob nightcaps of white china allk for
chilly heads or fine hair that needs
to be protected.
Crocheted shoulder shawls, with a
contrasting border,- for the old lady
frlejid or relative.
Silk hand-knitted mufflera for boy
friends.
A burnt, wood tobacco stand ror
father.
A table centerpiece of white em
broidered linen for mother.
A little warm woolen dress for some
poor child,
Trimmings of
Fur Hats
THE fur hat has a definite form. It
Is invariably bigger and more
cumbersome than the usual run of
millinery. The favorite model is a tur
ban of enormous dimensions, though
this is rather high than broad.
The moujlk Russian hat accompa
nies many fine coats; It goes up Into a
stupendously high crown and has a
broad, flat band of rur abo'ut the face.
A knot of the inevitable tinsel roses is
at the side, or else a "fancy" one of
the astounding feathers made by the
hand of man from bird plumage. -
Some velvet shapes turn directly up
at the back like a peacock's tail. In
tne space unueniettiu
plicated rosette of satin, filling all the
hollow, on tne ouisiae inne ui mi
i i -1. 1 a a.M a fltr-h. or some
Hlliiiiai biv.ii - -- -
other creature's skin, twisted about the
crown, with a great lift at one side of
the fancy feathers. Such hats go with
day effects the rich fur coat thatcov-
. 1. AAn,lnn nr mfltftlPA dreSS.
via mo i - t
Some little turbans with wide fur bands
about puffed velvet crowns seem very
useful and ornamental for muffs and
neckpieces in matcning bih.
may be without other ornament if de
sired. The fur headpiece for evening is a
V. I .nnhnnMnir COOUStrV. With
nuns " - -''-'- - c
some coats of real and false ermine
rabbit skin go things that cqjild only
ti . j ,V. on4 r-fllx-nu fnl SL
oe caueu w,cmo --"-- - ' '
number only enclrlce the brow, leav
ing the crown of the head bare. One
cap of ermine had a border of this skin
and a gold tissue over a iim m -" -ouoise
and gold brocade. At the side
there were turquoise buds of tinsel.
iverlapped with the gold. On a ngnt
ur hat roses or buds of Jet are some
lmes seen.
for BUlUiuuuiio - -
great high-crowned turbans or else Mt-
.i. . V. 1 n KnnnAt .ha D- For this
wear red fox ls a smart skin, this pelt
going aamiraoiy ....v..e,
muff with the coarse serges employed
for auto raiment. All of the best fur
headgear is comblnea witn tne ncn
.1 . 1- n fn.. n, AlaA A. Whole
UI19C1 HWW v in is - - " ,
animal skin of some precious nature
. - . i r. BA.TAal hanila
encirciea a nat in tu v - - -- -
Ermine, or rabbit skin trimmed to im
itate it. -will be put on a spreading brim
of black velvet, heads and paws all -
i. . i 1 vt with t Ha cluster at
BIIUWlllKl " ' J v ...... . -
the side, neia aown wim oumo iiavi.u
some Jet ornament or other.
But our hats for day wear with walk
ing gowns for average purses) con
sist generally of a band of the skin
about a crown of less expensive mater- j
lal. Serge, velvet, corduroy, Ottoman
silk and satin may all from the crown
of street hats, but the fur border used
must match the muff and neckpiece or
else the fur coat worn. If the ttnsel
1 A . n wIva Vl nlrlntt A. fftlrv
rosn eiuvlwcu r- - - -- - -
touch seem too expensive, a small knot
of ribbon flowers will be in keeping,
or else a carefully chosen rose of the
usual sort.
Where there is a gownr in a clofch of
a rich color such as Blue or dull red
a piece of this may be used for the
hat crown with he border of Persian
lamb, Alaska sable, seal, marten or
what not. What is required In the fur
hat is that It will have aequence with
the rest of the mufflings; so If the
headpiece ls of one skin, and muff or
coat of another, the smart effect is
gone.
Concerning the subject of furs en
masse. It will not be possible to pre
sent a smart appearance this Winter
without them. For the colder days the
fur hat will be as essential as the big
muff, and the two together make it
possible to do without the coat that
costs so much money and is only use
ful on the bitterest days. So if one
can buy the more moderate things, my
advice would be for a muff and hat In
a matching skin. With a serge or
cloth street gown, with the coat
for these big sam
ples offered, by
ED. PINAUD .
PARFUMERIE ED. PINAUD
ED. PINAUD BLDQ. . NEW YORK
wish to try the sample as per your
special offer in Oregonian, and enclose
5c (fa pay postage).
Name
Street
Ctfy- Sfafe
77n coupon mast be used as this is
a special offer
i!"mHmimrai'n'!iiinn!iim'mmnmiM!ll!iM
tfifilhriiinlijiiiiitt HH;iiiiiiuiHUiHiiiv'P","tMI"ln"tJI,t-li:1
muffled inside the throat with a richly-colored
silk handkerchief, the muff
ami hat. if well made and In a prevail
ing style, will give one "the required
Wintry look without great expenditure.
Like the fancier muffs, the hats are
very easily made at home. The skin
employed are never lined, and as all
fur hats have something of a home
made look a little clumsiness does not
matter. With a reception dress a hat
in an appropriate fur may nave a tulle
rosette at the side, gold or silver tas
sels, of posies. With the tailor-made
article a rosette, handsomely made, of
satin ribbon, is enough. This is put
on at the point where it ls most be
coming. MARY DEAN.
Bags for Reception Gowns.
For use with reception gowns there
are big bags of suede and satin en
crusted with beads shaping handsome
patterns and sometimes hanging In
deep fringes below. Such reticules
must positively match a frock In a pale
color or else the effect of them ls lost.
They are newer than the mesh bags in
metal, which, however, bigger than
ever, are still seen. There is only one
new kink for the mesh bag or purse
It must hang from the neck on a long
matching chain.
In mourning departments the shops
Welcome Words to Women
Women who suffer with disorders peculiar to their
sex should write to Dr. Pierce and receive free the
advice of a physician of over 40 years' experience
a skilled and successful specialist in the diseases
of women. Every letter of this sort has the most
careful consideration and is regarded as sacredly
confidential. Many sensitively modest women write
fully to Dr. Pierce what they would shrink from
telling to their local physician. The local physician
is pretty sure to say that he cannot do anything
without "an examination." Dr. Pierce holds that
these distasteful examinations are generally need
less, and that no woman, except in rare cases, should submit to them.
Dr. Pierce's treatment will enre you right in the privacy of
your own home. His ' Favorite Prescription" has cured
hundreds of thousands, some of them the worst of cases.
It if the only medicine of its kind that is the product of a regularly graduated
physician. The only one good enough that its makers dare to print its every
ingredient on its outside wrapper. There's no secrecy. It will bear examina
tion. No alcohol and no habit-forming drugs are found in it. Some unscrup
ulous medicine dealers may offer you a substitute. Don't take it. Don't trifle
with your health. Write to World's Dispensary Medical Association, Dr. R.
V. Pierce, President, Buffalo, N. Y., take the advice received and be well.
Health and Beauty Helps
BY MRS. SIAE MAB.TYN
Hester: You say you are taking on
flesh at a rate that dismays you, and
will faithfully follow my advice if I
tell you how to secure stylish slender
ness. I am glad to say you will not
find mv directions difficult to follow,
for I do not believe in starving or
violent exercise to avoid obesity. Just
rt,,n niinr-M nf nfl.rnotiS from your
druggist, dissolve it in 1(4 Pints J0'
water, and taKe a ihdiitsijuuiiii" v
harmless fat dissolver before each
meal. Weigh yourself at the end of
each week for four weeks and you
will be delighted with the result. You
will be jignter in spun
body, for parnotls benefits the general
health. ' , . .
Mrs R.: To allay and soothe the
ir.itntinn and rouithness of your com
plexion caused by hard water, sun or
winus appiy a iuhuu a
Dissolve four ounces of spurmax in a
half pint of hot water and add two
t..H.nnnfiita nt erlvrrlne. AdoIV With
the palm of the hand and gently rub
until ary. uao iui "
AxpAilent face wash daily instead of
powder or cosmetic. Spurmax pre
serves the skin and beautifies the com
plexion, making It soft, smooth and
white. . '
M. S.: I do not think brunettes are
afflicted with superfluous hairs on the
ta i-a anv more than are blondes. Of
course, black or dark hairs are more
.,-.. i ,. i H i vaii can easuv Kei nu ui
them if you will use delatone. Make a
i t . hv t-1 )T1 n I- H llLie ui lilt- 11 U vv I ! i: I
with a little water, cover the skin
from which you wish to remove the
disfiguring -hairs, let remain two or
three minutes, then wipe off the paste
and wash the skin thoroughly with
warm water. Delatone is pretty ex
pensive. Druggists charge one dollar
an ounce, but It kJ worth it. If. the
hairs should return they will be thin
and almost colorless and another ap
plication of delatone will permanently
ria you oi inem.
W. J. G.: Especially at this season of
the year you should be feeling ener
getic, full of life and have a good
appetite. Even though you" do not feel
really sick, you should take a good
tonic to rid your blood of its impuri
ties and build up your health and
strength generally. Get an ounce of
kardene from any drug store and dis
solve it with half a cup of sugar in a
half pint of alcohol; then add enough
hot wator to make a full quart. This
ls a splendid remedy for that run
down, tired, indifferent feeling you
speak of. Take a tablespoonful before
each meal and in a short time It will
restore your appetite and free your
ekin from those pimples and liver
blotches which now annoy you.
Lucy M.: You have made a great
mistake in neglecting your hair so
long. But it is not too late to restore
It to Its former beauty, even if it is
"falling, acurfy and weak hair." as you
call it. Regular use of a good quinine
hair tonic will accomplish wonders. To
make this tonic, get one ounce of
qulnzoln from' your druggist, dissolve.
sTOIWtOf THE SCUT
t&UCE quinine!
osroiivD sLuanns; I
aicottoL us cun. y
IMMRID MOM
ED. PINAUD'S
HAIR TONIC
(Kau de Quinine)'
Prevents dandruff, beau
tifies the hair, keeps the
scalp healthy, imparts
refined fragrance.
Your dealer will sell you
the regular size bottles at
50c and $1.00
show bags both of extreme simplicity
and decided coquetry. The large onea
with square frames. In a " leather
grained to look like crepe, are admired
for sensible use. These have leather
handles and linings of dull moire or
kid. The flxy bags In black are of
dull ribbed silk or beaded peau da
cygne, the beads, of course, being dull
and the framing of gunmetal. So, If in
mourning, do not make the mistake of
buying these bags with bright gold
finishings, for with only this change
Instead of gunmetal or dull Jet frames,
the same styles are used for color.
Exquisite ideas for home work are
given by the Dresden bags of colored
beads woven with beautiful flowers,
and which seem so fine for the theater.
One csn learn- to net these with little
effort, and a new well-made bag In
such style ls a thing to be kept for
ever. Bags of flowered silk are other
evening dainties that can be made at
home, and, the necessary frames can
be bought anywhere. Some of the
shops. Indeed; put the bags together
with the purchase of a handsome
frame.
In point of form, the newest of these
articles Intended for dressy wear have
oval tops, and every material of any
smartness whatsoever velvet, moire,
beads, silk, satin, etc. has the cord
handle with two tassels at the sides.
tig.,-
Willi
It in one-half pint of alcohol and add
one-half pint of water. Rub this tonic
Into the scalp and hair roots two or
three1 times a week, and It will restore
your scalp to a healthy condition, feed
the hair follicles, giving your hair new
life and causing It to grow in thick,
long and glossy. Your sister will find
this same quinzoin tonic the right and .
true remedy for her fading, dull and
brittle hair. It will stop the splitting '
and breaking in one or two applica
tions, but she ghould continue its uee
for several weeks and resume the
treatment whenever her hair requires
it. Read answer to Hermlone. i
Hermione: You must get the dan
druff off your head. Dandruff is a
hair destroyer: it chokes the hair, kills
it and -causes It to fall out. Don't use
soap for shampooing; soap leaves the
scalp dry and hard, and streaks the
hair. I know of only one perfect
shampoo, and that ls canthrox. AU
first-class' druggists sell it. Just dis
solve a teaspoonful of canthrox in a
cup of hot water; pour on the head a
ilttle ata time and rub well precisely
aa you would with any other sham
poo; then rinse the hair and scalp
thoroughly with 'clean, warm water.
Canthrox removes dandruff and re- ,
lleves itching scalp. It dries quickly
and makes the hair soft, bright and
fluffy. For a hair tonic. Use qulnzoln
described in the preceding para
graph, v , .
A. B. R.: It has been Indeed a try
ing season for even the strongest eyes,
and you are only one of thousands who
are suffering from sore, red and in
flamed eyes. To relieve the irritation,
redness and granulated lids, get an
ounce of crystos from your druggist,
dissolve It in a pint of water and drop
one or two drops in each eye whenever
tho eyes feel tired, weak or sore. The
use of this home-made eye tonic gives
brilliance and expression to the eyes,
keeping them clear and bright. It is a
favorite toilet adjunct with actresses
and society women.
"Betty": I don't know who said,
"Any fool can catch a husband, but it
takes a wise woman to keep one"
but it comes pretty near to being
true. For the sake of your present
and future happiness, don't neglect
your complexion don't let your skin
become sallow, dark, coarse or rough; '
don't let it. wrinkle or sag. Use this
home-made cream-jelly for massaging
and as a face cream: Get from your
druggist one ounce of almozoln, dis
solve it in a half pint of cold water,
add two teaspoonfute of glycerine, stir
well and let stand over night- This is
"the cream without grease" it won't
cause hair to grow. Gently massage
your face and neck and you will find
it acts on the skin, seeking out the
deepest layers, the deepest tissues, the
deepest cells and there works like Na
ture works, thoroughly and surely, for
skin health, purity, color and fresh
ness. It not only restores a lost, com
plexion but creates a new one.
Read Mrs. aiartyn's book, "Beauty."
5. Adv.
R S.TJCVfl
I