A
G lTIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, XOVE3IBKR 20. 1310.
i
ATTRACTIVE THANKSGIVING LINENS
SHOWN IN THE PORTLAND SHOPS
ONE: of the most Interesting
h'.nffzn of Tl ankmlvInK hospital
Ify la the jrr varletr of beautl
E of the most Interesting har-
tl-
fnl Ur.ere. an.nr.a; W. lch are some
t::.I- n-velrr whvm ar.l patterns
b-lr.a: r!lj.!ayed In the rnrtlar.d: depart-me.-.t
stores.
Fire linens he always been ad
mired hr the truly feminine shopper,
art h.r cherls..-! store of beautiful
at.maak. Is "ur,.- of the P''
prhle to eery housewife so fortunate
a. to pnf snowy tablecloth, r.ap
klr. mn.l c. -IMrs of hl r"
:eq-r,t cf the OM World art. Iu the
attractive d..r!y of table linen., the
sp.rll of tie T:.r.kiclvlne sea-n casts
. . . . i..rn n.I around
the l.nen count
tahls '!"! h ar.
among the throng of shoppers with a
toss of her head. It Is such a. these
that brlns; down the storm of mascu
line Indignation about the ears of our
whwV .ex.
Incidentally, nothing detracts more
assurance that the "duplex" gown, for
reception and restaurant wear. Is In
higher favor than ever with Dame Fash
Ion. The "duplex" gown Is half of vel
vet and half of satin, the two materials
usually being of exactly the same ehado.
There are. however, some very smart
Cable cord, covered with satin or vel
vet, and laid on In decorative motifs. Is
among the latest trimming features. It
appears on coats as well a frocks and
formal gowns, and may be very effec
tive if not overdone and run Into heavi
ness. A feature of the new bodices Is the
transparence above the bust line, al
though the transparencies In some of the
models are really not traneparents at all,
b'lng several layers of diaphanous stuffs
giving the transparent effect.
rs si'.i
, use! for the
.'.pi.4T ni '"I"' ' ... ,,., nd
iliilr.g
better
gath
c.r, of ehoppers f:ese days. The
ircl rr.er. ant. .U report
.... i- :,.. f.irtnlirht pre-
.- -'. -rest i!lV of turk'T
- ... an,! the I'nlP'Ine
.. ' . a- sucres'tona that have
'.J.. '. '..,'.. t for t .e iTirlstmas
rers ho I'lle in purchasing early
and
hnw-
Mop-
. o- the displays are
. plitl-T l.Ll-hron : ,,.
!l.s and t .-ipK'.ns ani i..' -
o r in linens
Of cut glars
ik n u a I n t
I'Utr.l toii h
- t rttif Pieser.ts
sr. 1 e.iver real'r cc-n t" pale Into in
..--.. .-.nr. hefore som- of tr.e r"
..n.. which in addition to
... .ir fineness of w-ave
their d-mt. artistic deslsns. have the
effective virtue of reflecting the wy
latent whim of pane r
i .r.,1 nval clntl. with S"
r.-'.-s. a- arionc t' popular things.
. . . v. . i,,n.-h.",i linens the
to-j-h'of delft M'te Is r!.nj-.-terlsMr:
!l" Vr central wrelth. of the blue.
vi..- .mt,ni,ifl s-a'lops. are
different patterns, and
ith floral or
s.in
. . wA Kl,e prrt'in
.rnventLv..-.! M:e. r chsp-. "
lnf'nlt s-arletv. Napkins nl dollies
, mafh co with the cloth, to com
pete the lun.-heoii sets.
. ..f .enterpleces. the Putch
Ilnons'.re a 'so to the fore, with their
,, .,,ri-..' of color, n-.it from the
..nent too. mmo exiulslto offerings In
ro ored linens, among these being. ome
Indescrlhahlr bca-if.ful lablcclotha
and . enterpleces of Canton linen which
Is Of a deep yet flrli.lte blue, with
raised mbroi.!.-y In white. The tin-t-n
Itnen Is of t;.e finest and most sub
stantial weave, and tie daln:y contrast
of the white emi-roidery against th.
b u. ground Is most effect:ve. There
are some han.lsome s!iowiiiK In the
. -lenti t urysanthemum patterns, but
the typical and somewhat common
grojp. of flying biris and other dls-tia--ily
Japanese decorative patterns do
not appear. Instead .there are the ery
.:a!nuest and most artistic floral or
foliage wreaths and designs of scat
tered full-blown roses or rosebuds.
.
Another new showing In the Am
trim fabrics Is what Is known as the
brocaded linen. In this new weave all
ti e beauty of the Ian.ask Is attained,
with an additional sheen and empha
sis of pattern. The Tlvld heen of the
,le,oratlve pattern, too. Is only the
more Intensified by laundering, a ylr
tue which will have Its own appeal to
the rractlra! housewife. In the cluny
an.t Madeira linens the new showings
are more elaborate in
ever.
Apropos of the Interesting new show
ings In ornamental hat pins, a feaure
tost makes one apprehensive of criti
cism is the extraordinary lengih of the
sharp steel spikes to which are att. di
ed some of the very handsomest de
signs. The paragraphers and cartoon
ists had no little sirt. a year or so
ago. over the "It-Inch hat-pin bill.
Introduced In the Oregon Legislature)
by some indignant sol.n who had nar
rowly escaped having an eye rulaud
by a protruding hat pin In a streetcar.
If one but pauses to give a luile
thought to 11" subject, and to ob
serve the carelessness of women in
regard to the way they thrust these
long Mns through their hats, the at
tempted legislation against the long
hat pin does not seem so ridiculous
after all. To be sure the long hat
p:n. la these days of broadened crowns
and exaggerated millinery of various
solea. Is a thing of feminine nec-s-sttv.
but It need be no longer than
wlil serve to secure the hat firmly to
the eolffnre. In crowded elevators,
streetcars filled to overflowing. and
other places where humanity must
herd closely together. trie sharp
steel hat pin. thrust out an Inch or
two beyond the brim of the hat. la a
very serious peril.
In the elevator of a Portland offlca
building a few days since, an energetla
little business woman whose name Is
prominently Identified with human
work, and who la undoubtedly of quick,
warm sympathies, wore two villain
ously long hat pin. bristling from the
side of her brlmlese hat like the yullla
of a porcurine. li.lng rather under
average height, she was all unconsci
ous of the frantic dodging and maneuv
ering of the men passenger, who were
crowded about her. In their efforts to
escape being scratched by the pins.
In animated conversation with a wo
man friend of about her own height,
she kept bobbing and turning her head,
until finally one of the pins raked
wtritedlv across a clean-shaven mascu
line chin, leaving a long, smarting
cratch which ni'tckly crimsoned. Say
lag nothing, but undoubtedly think
ing much, the victim drew hi. kerchief
and uncomplainingly wiped his chin
a. the wearer of the protrudng plna
made her way out of the elevator with
her little dog to f.grit the battle, of
horse, not properly .hod for the slip
pery .treets. or warmly blanketed
against the Winter chill. let we wua
cer why. as a .ex. we ax. deemed In
consistent. e e
That some of te long hat-pin of
fenders are. not merely thoughtless, but
are actually Indifferent to what Injury
they may do", wa. demonstrated Mon
day afternoon In one of the elevator,
of a popular department store A
young mother, holding a tiny Infant
high In her arms, to avoid having It
crushed In the crowded cage, had the
misfortune to stand at one side and a
little to the reas of a woman who wore
a hat of narrow brim and some long
hat pins, one of wh'.rtj protruded fully
three Inches from the tall crown. The
pins were Just on a level with the mult
face aad wondering blue eye of the
baby, and were kept moving vigor
ously about, a menace which greatly
worried the little mother, fearing the
llsf.gurement. or perhaps the loss of
an eye. for her little one. the worried
mother attempted to move further back
with a little cry of alarm. A kindly
omao standing near thrust out a
hand and held the hat with Its offend
ing pin. firmly awar from the Infant,
ndeavorlng to apologise and explain
a .he did ao: but the unrestrained
xnger of the woman with the hat plna
would not be appeased, and when the
, e.evetor .topped she turned with flash
ing eyes and bitter words TVhso It
wa. made clear to her that her un
necessary length of hat pin had en
dangered the Infant and made all the
other passenger, uncomfortable, she
Jabbed spitefully at the hat pin which
the ether woman had apologetically
pushed back a little, and thrust its
'V length out as before, flouncing vlf
FIGURE C
n. ........ ,
from the emartnees and neatness of a
chic new hat than to have bristling
from It two or three long, unsightly
.pikes.
Aero gray Is one of the new .hades In
worsted suitings. The nam .mack, of
aviation.
The tiny check patterns, predicted for
early 5prlng wear, ar casting an ad
vance tendency before. Home of the
prettiest new design. In fabric, show
small ahadow checks.
From Pari, and New York come, the
model, m contrasting colors, and of va
rious delicate tones combined with black.
The duplex gown 1. a most attractive
arrangement of materials, and Its rich
ness I. one of Its greatest charms. The
velvet and satin are also used in com
bination with such materhila a. meteor,
crepe de chine, charmeuse and cachemlre
do sole. 8ome of the more elaborate
gowns show lac and velvet In combina
tion with chiffon and velvet, or with
chiffon and meteor, with trimming, of
rich embroidery and lace. Some of thesa
exuulslle creations have a coat to match,
which make, them do duty as afternoon
gowns also
Huge velvet roses, of white or some
dainty color, with golden hearts, are
much used for catching up the drapes of
chiffon or other thin stuffs on evening
gowns. Velvet or silken flower, with
silver centers are also greatly used for
the trimming of elaborate gown., as well
as millinery.
A new sleeve feature is the touch of
trimming to match that of the gown.
The "barrel" sleeve, which Is all that
the name Implies, Is varied In this way,
the nrlddle fullness of the sleeve being
caught up with a bit of trimming, such
as velvet flowers or embroidery.
Smart and Simple Dresses for tne Little Girls
H
APPILT for the comfort of child
hood, the exaggeration, which
mark woman', dress are not fa
vored for little girl's frocks. With the
extremes of fashion, the Imported
things and domestic one. designed for
wealth and opulence of taste, there ar
many close Imitation, of grown-up
follies skimpy llttl skirts, pretty
enough to look at with their tight bot
tom bande and coat, hobbled In at the
bottom and trimmed with the big revere
Wbose outer point, drop to the waist.
n
But these are the exceptions, for it Is
only In their millinery that many
American children are allowed the gro
tesquerles of the hour. What Is known
a. the American model. Indeed. Is the
dress style now admired for little maids
short of ten. and. though a number of
these are plainly adaptations from the
French, extravagances are left out.
It la remarkable how excellent are
the readf-made styles now offered for
children, and the mother contemplating
making her small daughter's garments
would do well to examine them. The
shops are now displaying trimming ef
fect, showing the sewer Inexperienced
In matter, fashionable how to put this
and that together. in this way one
niay get un-numbered Ideas for home
decoration In point of color combina
tion, and mixture, of material, ideas
tor novelties In gulmpes, trimmings, etc
For the sensible dres. worn by girl,
between six and 10 years a soft finished
wool, plain or patterned. Is admired
above everything. For the smarter of
the little frocks, broadcloth and basket
serge are liked, velvet trimming the
first perhaps and silk bands or a very
handsome stitching the last. The dress
up gown may be of voile, marquisette,
prunella, crape or ehallle. a kimono coat
In lansdowne or broadcloth coating In
soft brown, blue or red going with
any of these.
In point of style the body of the use
ful frock 1. cut long, the belt falling
below the normal line and the little
blouse fitted at the shoulders with
Gibson plaits. The short skirt that
Is attached to this may be gored, or
side or box plaited. Gulmpes are shal
lower than formerly when there Is a
round neck cut, but as some of the
llttl bodice, fold surplice fashion In
the front the gulmpe may then show
a V of considerable length. White un
deraleeves go only with the dressier
frocks, the little gown of fine wool, or
ilk. or crepe or veiling that Is fussed
up somehow and Intended only for
best wear. The little school dress, the
useful golng-out frock and the Sunday
school one meant for average puree,
have wrist length sleeves, cosily fasten
ing about the waist sometime, with
close cuffs.
Color, for these small fry ar often
very rich, magnificent .hades of a cop
pery red. a daxzllng blue and lovely
tonea of golden brown being favored.
Where a material la patterned plaids,
checks or stripe It Is possible to vary
the look by making the frock on the
straight and the trimming on the bias.
A whole drees may be made up In this
way. the sharp contract between the
straight and bias of the various sections
creating a very .mart effect. It i. a
good .lea for the mother who cannot
arford extra trimming, for as a rule
goods treated in this manner do not re
quire other garniture.
Four very sweet little frocks for use
ful wear are shown on the page for
home dressmaking, but the gowns ex
press to a nicety some of the favored
shop styles. Made at home they would
be cheaper, of course, and there Is al
way. the possibility of having a better
material than one could afford with
ready-made clothes.
The various frocks are for girls be
tween six and 10 years of age. and as
verything depends upon material they
are adapted to the plainest or best
wear.
ir;-...-- a ri. ( .mirahlA design ae-
plots the long-bodied frock with dressy
touches that would be needed to make
the garment the best thing lor
ie. As Illustrated it Is of a soft mot
tled wool in black velvet. The depth of
the shallow, round neck la the proper cut
for cold weather and the present fashion,
while the kimono cut of the little bodice
permits the use of two sets of under
nleevea. one of the gown stuff, the other
in the lawn, omuroiaery, w ' ,"
whlch would make the gulmpe. With
this change alone a wool drese could b
made to do for both dressy and half
practical service. A bright Scotch plaid
wool or wllk in this model, with black
velvet trimmings, would bo dressy and
becoming, for these gay plaid, are al
ways suited to little Tolk and they are
still eminently stylish.
Figure B Here Is the school frock par
excellence, for except the least bit of
plain co!or a plaid good made In this
wav need have no other trimming. The
high neck and loqg sleeves also do
away wh the eternal worry of a clean
guiinpe and. besides, insure adequate
protection against the cold. The plaited
skirt with it. box-plaited front Is a fac
simile of the other, for this model Is
widely used. Both of the little frocks
are one-piece models and fasten at the
back, aa the rear drawings show.
Blue la an excellent plain color for thl.
useful Sroc.k, and with this a bright or
dull Fhade of red might be used for
the trimmings, or a striped material
might be made on the straight and
trimmed with a bias this used as her
for the collar, belt, cuffs and piping.
Picture C Two frocks of uncommon
smartness are displayed by the little flg-
ures r. e re. ine one. on uin ' v "
. u- ht.. m. richer texture.
allowed children of these agesbroad
cloth. velvet and velveteen. It eeem. odd
that such a. color as "eiepnam i
i u w.. i;i..i a oHrl helnw 10. but
this sombre shade In velvet or cloth
will create a dress of uncommon ric.n-
t.v. siH1cn of this dress
litres i ii" - -
and the beairtifu! re vera held down with
buttons would give a thin, ungainly cram
-.vi.. r . flrnriv while til tiny
slashed sleeves permit endless possl-
bilitiea In under-sieeves. in mo .-
- r.ivatwn In two shade.
of emoky gray is used, with plain silk
in the color or tne stripe iw '"
and buttons. A good grade of velveteen
In a-' rich red. blue, brown or artlntlo
shade of green would' bo superb for this
dress, and with this material a wide
. . i h.aH for the revers
ana rn ri.M . n ... " ..
the lace falling softly like a collar back
and front would maKe a uum m
m reallv maarninoent. One must pay
a good price for nnst-class velveteen, but
even the ones at a oonar a - "' "
. . l i i. !,. maferial might
lilgniy en .-v u.u, . , -
be used If the skirt were gored. Instead
of the lace suggested, a piain u
broadcloth, cut an are tne prrsem
i , i - m i,.ii almost aj rireeisy.
Concerning the use of everyday materials
for this mode!. It coijld be made of serge,
of course, cashmere or a lightweight
tweed, with & gulmpe and long sleeves
of the same. ....
,i-. ,,r fl). omnller srlrl Is of pale
gray broadcloth, with a novel garniture
of the same material crossed with
In mfltchinff Color. 911k.
velveteen and the plainest wool are
other materials auapteo to wns wci.
end with a plain goods of any sort a
plaid trimming, following the lines pic
tured would be effective and Inexpen
sive.
a- . itnlne effects for any of
these little gowns, remember that black
goes with anything and that it Is the
ncta In nrese.nt costuming.
A dim shade of green also ets oft golden
brown effectively. ana lor
- i tn ki.ttnn. anil ninlnirs that trim
wuunca i. " ' '
a lace or net gulmpe for a dress In any
color there Is ansoiutt-iy notnins juve
nile and modish aa the brilliant shade
of cherry employed In similar way. on
women's gowns. m Art. i ,
Thanksgiving
Menus
1 lOlaborate course dinner
nrapa Fruit Cocktail.
Cousuiuins a la Koyale.
rvierv saitea uts.
run umiMin. """"i'
Sweetbread Patties.
Roast Turkey, Brown Sauce.
Oyster riresslnir. Sliced Tongue.
fraulerry Jelly.
Mashed Potatoes Celerlao au Orattn.
Cider Punch.
Wild Duck. Oranse and Celery Salad.
Pumpkin Pie.
Bombs Olace, with Matrons.
Black Coffee. Cheese Bouchses.
D'rult- Xuts. Hon Hons.
1 simple company dinner, six to ten psr-
.,n- . uiswt soup.
0n Cflpry. Olives.
Roast Chickens. Glblet Sauce.
Chestnut DresinK. Cranberry Sauce.
Mashed Potatoes. Cauliflower.
Waidorf Salad.
v, pi- Charlotte Russe.
PumpkKu Apples. Bon Bons.
Coffee.
I Simple company dinner (without help).
Oyster Cocktail.
Roast Turkey. Savory Bread pressing.
Brown Sauce. sausago Canes.
Cranberry Jelly.
Browned Pouioes m Cmm))rol,
Celery. Ap.l and r'pper Salad.
Pumpkin Pie a la Mode.
Vuts Raisins. Applea
Coffee.
4 Simple company dinner, four to ten
Prrm . ....SSSMSSSSSis
How I Made o
. My Hair Grow
I was greatly troubled with dandruff
andTalling hair. I tried many advertised
hair preparations and various prescrip
tions, but they all signally failed; many
of then, made my ; hair g rey -o It w
lmpqas pie w """".'.Vih. I
IV. I I II 1 II li mat ii 11 11 . ' ' , 2
iVleS were positively In rl.u. r?
m v own eipeneiu w -
f u , ..ninut ii uf n it- nrcnara-
ilon. containing wood a Icohol and other
poisonous .ub.tanoe, . bellev
iSsteo7 "failures. I finally found a simple
Slate is ueyuim y-
ful thins ror ma imn
kom. Unot only I-: powerful stlmu-
lant to tne grow in ui i"u -
.wring gray hair to its natural co or.
blui ii.s ,. for removinar
dandruff, giving the hair life and bril-
liancy, etc., ana - r
Inc the scalp in first-class condition. It
also maaes too o , , -
arrange in nice form. I have a friend
who used It two months and during that
time it has not oniy "uki"" """"3 J
of his hair and wonderfully Increased H
r w... it n.aoi ifl v restored all
its gro iu. r, v-,. .
of his hair to us nan"' '
obtain the Ingredients for making this
..narat nn frftm a most an V
drutririst The prescription is as follows:
b!! Ruin" 6 oz.; Menthol Crystals. H
drachm; Lavona de Composee', 2 ox. If
you like it perfumed add a few drops of
To-Kalon 1'erfume .which mixes per
t 11. ka Athn, Ingredients. This.
lectiy who . ., . ---- ,
however, is nut ucnoonij.
Be sure to ask the druggist for all the
ano o.ur..i". ;-;
package. -" iii" "y -handsome
free sprinkler top for your
hair tonic bottle and you are also en
titled to receive the free advice of an
expert on the hair by simply writing to
the address you will find enclosed in
tne cartvo.
Apply night and morning; rub thor-
OUglliy into "- -
Go to your druggist and ask for an
eight OUnce Dunn Lmiiauinis ia uu.iv.co
of Bay Rum: also one-half drachm of
Menthol Crystals, and a two-ounce bot
tle of Lavona de Composee'. Mix the
Ingredients yourself at your own home.
Add the Menthol Crystals to the Bay
Rum and then pour In the Lavona de
Composee and add the To-Kalon Per
fume. Let It stand one-half hour and It
la ready for use.
:
Cushion Shoe Foot Ease
For Men and Women i
BuUt like the foot, more'actualIytcon
forming to the shape of the foot than'
any other cushion snoe genuine com
fort shoes even without the cushion
soles. And with the cushion soles'
they are the extreme of comfort for
sensitive feet quick relief for feet
that swell, smart, burn, ache or tire.
Mayer Yerma Cushion Shoes
are genuine comfort shoes made to give
comfort, and not merely ordinary shoes with
detached cushion soles slipped in. ine
cushion soles in Mayer Yerma Cushion
Shoes are built iniwith the uppers which
holds them permanently in place.
Mayer Yerma Cushion Shoes are made of the finest stock on
foot form lasts which makes them strong, yet light and
flexible and easy oa the feet
For genuine foot ease appearance and dur
ability. Mayer Yerma Cushion Shoes axe
ttnequaiea. mauo tor DOin men ana 7
women in many styles ana
all sizes.
Be sure and took
the Mayer Trade
Mark on the sole.
Sold by leading si
dealers if your dealer
will not supply y
write to us.
F. Mayer Boot & Shoe Co.
UlLWAUKEK. WIS.
Jt A 7
r
'.-is
'-: ,"' St ' rx t i'ljr,,'
1 mil ' f
fori TTm Built m t
illiik 81,09 f
" l-JSft 'T-r,: ... W
tVestern Branch: Washington Shoe Mfs. Co., Seattle. Wmsh.
Clear Soup.
RrRllfinAfl Ovitflfl.
Roast Veal. Bread Dressing. Bacon Garnish.
Pickled Peachea
Sweet Potatoes, Caramelled.
ttcanopea uai.r.
Thlcorv Salad. Cheese Balls.
Pumpkin Pie. Cranberry toe.
Co fTee.
S Simple company dinner, four to six per
sona
t eiery 2oup.
Rosst Duck or Goose,
Sage and Onion Dressing1.
Brown Sauce. Apple Croquettes.
Mushed Potatoes. Squash au Or.tin.
drape Fruit and Celery Salad.
Chestnut Pudrtlnjr. Frozen Sauce.
Toasted Crackers. Cheese.
Coffee.
8 Economical dinner, four to twelve per
sons. Cream of Celery Soup.
Pot Roast of Beef, Brown Sauce.
Savory Bread Dreaslntc.
Pickled Peaches ( Dried).
Mashed Potatoes. Baked Squash.
Celery and Apple Salad.
Cranberry Pudding. Foamy Sauce.
Nuts and Raisins. Coffe.
7 Just for two.
Sardine Canape.
Celery. Olives.
Small Chicken or Roll of Veal.
OyBter Dressing.
Brown Sauce. Cranberry Jelly.
Potato Puffs. Scalloped Celery.
Chicory and Orange Salad.
Hot Apple Pie with Cream.
Coffee.
I
GREAT OFFER
Free to Every Reader
If you love the good things of life write
today for miniature bottles of
ED. PMAUD'S LILAC VEGETAL
AND
ED. PMAUD'S HAIR TOfllG
(Eau d Quinine)
Lilac Vegetal you will always use, once
you try it.. The most exquisite perfume in
the world. Sweet as a fresh bouquet For
handkerchief, atomizer and bath, and for
particular men to use after shaving.
ED. PINAUD'S HAIR TONIC
is a real delight, not only as a dandruff
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Coupon must accompany your request.
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undo 6c for which nd ma tpacial tamplet at
i
advertised in Oregonian.
Nam
Street
City Sfafe